Hey! This is a large video with lots of information, I placed timestamps are below 👇to help you navigate this video. Enjoy! Standing Seam VS Exposed Fastener 00:20 Framing For A Metal Roof 01:14 Drip Edge Prep 02:27 Foam Vapor Barrier Installation 06:41 Drip Edge Installation 07:49 Rake Edge Installation 08:23 Drip Edge Installation Continued 11:41 Metal Panel Screw Pattern Prep 13:14 Closures 16:00 Metal Panel Installation 16:47 Stretching and Shrinking Metal 20:19 Cutting Metal Panels 23:39 Metal Fascia Installation 30:38 Gable Trim Installation 39:16 Ridge Cap & Vent Installation 48:00 Cutting Hole For Vent Pipe 54:41 Vent Pipe Installation 56:16 Total Cost 57:56
In depth and detailed. I’ve never done a metal roof but feel like I could now (after rewatching, rewinding and replaying the steps of course!). Awesome vid
I would definitely recommend that you clean up the metal swarf from drilling and cutting any vent holes. Especially if you are using oil to assist in cutting or sealant, because that swarf will definitely rust and cause problems and detract from the overall look.
Great video, I've got this job coming up and this is a huge help. Big difference for me is I have to get all the trims folded to order as well, they aren't sold ready-folded in my part of the world, but the principles still hold.
Thanks for the pro vs con list. I would note that this roof is only more affordable if you don't have a catastrophic leak(s) from any of the thousands of exposed screws.
I have never heard of any catastrophic leaks from a simple screw leak but anything is possible. When the screws are installed properly, they are actually quite good at sealing. Thanks for watching!
@TheExcellentLaborer I enjoy your channel a lot! I've also sent crews to repair many roofs bc someone over-drove and blew out the neoprene washers or sank them at an angle. The catastrophic part came months or years later with mold and rot in the attic and staining on the ceiling. To be fair, I've also seen roofs done well and last a very long time.
@@JasonD0550 I am of the opinion the domed washer is superior to the bevel washer that leaves some of the neoprene exposed to uv. Great vid, very rich in fine details. Thank you Good Luck Peter
@peterraftery2426 absolutely! If installing this type of metal on a roof, the ZXL screws(dome over washer) are superior. Those little details make a huge difference.
I bought that Dewalt attachment and thought "Where has this been all of my life???" My husband looked at it wide eyed like I bought it for him. 😂 Silly man 😅
Awesome I’m glad I could help! It’s really a straightforward process and with a little bit of “how to” it is not that complicated. Good luck through project!
@@TheExcellentLaborer im starting into this and it's for myself . I'm doing single length metal boards on flat. Decided this rather than epdm cause I cannot lift an 8*4 epdm to the roof but I can lift 8 4*1 metal
So do I, but from experience I recommend thoroughly cleaning up the swarf afterwards, because otherwise it will rust on the roof and cause problems later on.
Excellent video with great instruction. I just completed putting roof on a building (not anywhere near this size) and this helped greatly. I noticed that from one side to the other, the ribs are offset. Is this deliberate, or just the way it worked out?
Terrific video, excellent verbal instructions.. the only question I have is :: with the 2 x 4's that the sheets are mounted to,. When walking on the sheet metal, can you step anywhere or must you try to step where the metal is supported by the 2 x 4's ? When the video was in fast mode I could not see how or where you placed your feet.. Again Thank You for the best video I've found on this subject !!!!!
Awesome! That's a great explanation. I have a question. If a homeowner replaces a metal roof like this, is there a tax benefit from the government? I also want to ask if the rate of adopting metal roofs in houses is increasing.
Did I miss a part in the video that explains why on one side of the roof then on the other side of the roof the ribs are off from each other, he did say it's basically being redundant on the other side but when you look down the ribs are not the same on both sides they're off by like a half
Nice video. Never done this kind of roof before but i wonder if caulking around every screw with osi or something similar be a good idea to reduce chances of leaks. I know it would take a while but id rather do that than have to repair any interior damage. Thoughts?
No need for that as long as the screws were installed properly. Also it probably be a bit unsightly. As the screws and washers are dipped to paint match.
nice...thanks 4 this video. ive ever only done a traditional shingle roof and youve saved me a ton of money by not doing the plywood sheathing first. on the foam part does it have to be the 4x8 sheets or can it be the 4x125 rolls of bubble stuff?
You wouldnt want osb under this metal roof (as opposed to standing seam), id go with plywood for its wetting potential. You will want to cover the osb/plywood with a self adheared weather barrier and on top of that add 1x3 furring strips so there is drying potential. Then youd install the metal roof the same way. If you're doing all that, though, probably want to go with standing seam
It’s funny you ask because I forgot my framing square that day and had to use an old one stored in the barn on the property. It’s still worked! Thanks for watching!
Yes you should put the screws on the ribs they hardly need the rubber seals when you screw it there so years later when the rubber crumbles it won’t leak
Guess what this roof will leak guaranteed if you are in a part of the country that gets snow and very cold temperatures producing ice on the roof. 😂 I have a two storage garages in and area that is about 90 deg for 6 months a year but in jan to end of feb it can get very cold. And both my units have leaks from ice shearing off a few screws here and there, when the downpours of rain came in March and April there were puddles in my storage and some building materials were ruined . 😢 I will always do standing seam for a metal roof... For a buliding for myself... No matter how much more the cost or time you have to put in . 😂 The reason for a roof is so that it protects the area underneath from getting wet. If it is going to leak what good is it. 😢
Aussie roofer here. Why do you guys screw on the flats and not the rib? That's actually illegal over my entire country. Both because that's where the water is, and also because when you pin the metal and wood together with a screw the sheets buckle with heat changes. Now I understand you guys use thinner metal to us, which would explain the need for extra support under the sheets as our purlins are 800mm apart. Also I suppose you guys have snow where we don't. But mostly why screw the bottom? There is no advantage to it that any roofer has ever given me. 50mm Tek screws are designed to hold from the top and allow heat stress
From what I read so far online: Some panels are made to be screwed on the "valley" because screwing on the ridge could easily crush it down (cheap metal?) and compromise the roof. I guess it depends on the manufacturer
Worked from left to right both sides and changed the overlap as well some manufacturers recommend sealing the overlap as well working left to right then right to left an the sustained wind rain direction should tell you which direction the overlap goes and some manufacture use a self tap screw on the joints to hold sheets together
Bro, you missed a lot of bicep days. Ik you like your chest & puships, but plz do some curls. 😉🙃 Love the work though. Keep it up. I watch every video. ❤
Hey! This is a large video with lots of information, I placed timestamps are below 👇to help you navigate this video. Enjoy!
Standing Seam VS Exposed Fastener 00:20
Framing For A Metal Roof 01:14
Drip Edge Prep 02:27
Foam Vapor Barrier Installation 06:41
Drip Edge Installation 07:49
Rake Edge Installation 08:23
Drip Edge Installation Continued 11:41
Metal Panel Screw Pattern Prep 13:14
Closures 16:00
Metal Panel Installation 16:47
Stretching and Shrinking Metal 20:19
Cutting Metal Panels 23:39
Metal Fascia Installation 30:38
Gable Trim Installation 39:16
Ridge Cap & Vent Installation 48:00
Cutting Hole For Vent Pipe 54:41
Vent Pipe Installation 56:16
Total Cost 57:56
In depth and detailed. I’ve never done a metal roof but feel like I could now (after rewatching, rewinding and replaying the steps of course!). Awesome vid
Great it should be a great resource for you! It is a lot of footage to review but after you do it, it’s pretty systematic. Hope that helps!
Nice job I like how you explained everything that you do and you don't cut corners
Wow this is one solid metal roof and so well done! Great help from your Dad Gerald. Big shout out to him as well.
You can add Excellent Instructions to your channel name. Probably the best instructional video I’ve seen. 👍
This guy knows his business. Job well done 👍
Thank you for all the detail, especially in cutting of the metal.
Good job buddy. I’ve been a carpenter for 45 years. I always loved it.
I would definitely recommend that you clean up the metal swarf from drilling and cutting any vent holes. Especially if you are using oil to assist in cutting or sealant, because that swarf will definitely rust and cause problems and detract from the overall look.
Great video, I've got this job coming up and this is a huge help. Big difference for me is I have to get all the trims folded to order as well, they aren't sold ready-folded in my part of the world, but the principles still hold.
Thanks for the pro vs con list. I would note that this roof is only more affordable if you don't have a catastrophic leak(s) from any of the thousands of exposed screws.
As someone trying to fix said leak I agree 100%
I have never heard of any catastrophic leaks from a simple screw leak but anything is possible. When the screws are installed properly, they are actually quite good at sealing. Thanks for watching!
@TheExcellentLaborer I enjoy your channel a lot! I've also sent crews to repair many roofs bc someone over-drove and blew out the neoprene washers or sank them at an angle. The catastrophic part came months or years later with mold and rot in the attic and staining on the ceiling. To be fair, I've also seen roofs done well and last a very long time.
@@JasonD0550 I am of the opinion the domed washer is superior to the bevel washer that leaves some of the neoprene exposed to uv.
Great vid, very rich in fine details. Thank you Good Luck Peter
@peterraftery2426 absolutely! If installing this type of metal on a roof, the ZXL screws(dome over washer) are superior. Those little details make a huge difference.
As I always said this is the best video I have ever seen. 👍🏻
That is so cool! I’m glad you like my content. Stay tuned for more videos to come!
Really awesome and informative video! Only wish that building had a masonry chimney so I could see how you do all the flashing.
Good timing! We are putting our roof on in a week or 2!
Good deal! This will be a great resource for you. Good luck with your project!
The underlap has the ANTI syphon leg alot of people get it bsckwards thinking its more coverage. He has it right 🤙
Nice detailed metal roof video, really nice job thanks
Thank you! I try to put as much information as I can in each video. Stay tuned for more videos to come!
Another great informative video and job well done! Thanks Josh!
@@randynichols7525 you are welcome. I appreciate that. Thank you!
Thanks for all the Hard Work you do.
My pleasure!
I bought that Dewalt attachment and thought "Where has this been all of my life???" My husband looked at it wide eyed like I bought it for him. 😂 Silly man 😅
Wow! Informative as usual! Great work and video! Got a lot out of it! Thanks for sharing! 👌👍
Awesome I’m glad I could help! It’s really a straightforward process and with a little bit of “how to” it is not that complicated. Good luck through project!
Okey now watching the screws part. Thanks mate really
I hope you get the information you are looking for. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer im starting into this and it's for myself . I'm doing single length metal boards on flat. Decided this rather than epdm cause I cannot lift an 8*4 epdm to the roof but I can lift 8 4*1 metal
@@TheExcellentLaborer need to watch more of u and others alike
I prefer to use oil or some other lubricant when drilling holes on the metal in order to avoid drill bit breakages.
So do I, but from experience I recommend thoroughly cleaning up the swarf afterwards, because otherwise it will rust on the roof and cause problems later on.
I really like the way the screws are designed. What’s the brand you’re using?
Excellent video with great instruction. I just completed putting roof on a building (not anywhere near this size) and this helped greatly.
I noticed that from one side to the other, the ribs are offset. Is this deliberate, or just the way it worked out?
This roof will keep the secret service from using it for a sinper nest. Its a slanted roof.
Any slanted roof and the secret service won’t ever be able to get onto it. Too dangerous.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!
Fantastic video! I'm about to start building a workshop and would like to do a metal roof like this. Where did you source your metal for your roof?
Thanks! This video will be very helpful. I got it from a local supplier. I hope that helps!
would this work with a ridge beam and roof joists or just with a truss system? Great video by the way ya really explained everything really well!
Terrific video, excellent verbal instructions.. the only question I have is ::
with the 2 x 4's that the sheets are mounted to,. When walking on the sheet metal, can you step anywhere or must you try to step where the metal is supported by the 2 x 4's ? When the video was in fast mode I could not see how or where you placed your feet.. Again Thank You for the best video I've found on this subject !!!!!
You should try to step on the battens (2×4's).
Awesome! That's a great explanation. I have a question. If a homeowner replaces a metal roof like this, is there a tax benefit from the government? I also want to ask if the rate of adopting metal roofs in houses is increasing.
I found this video very informative and would like to know do you have a link you can give me to the ribbed /beaded ganle trim you used at the end?
A screw change-out is recommended every 12 to 15 years
Great instructional. 👍🏼
Glad it was helpful!
Love the videos bro!
Thank you! I appreciate you watching. Stay tuned for more!
Did I miss a part in the video that explains why on one side of the roof then on the other side of the roof the ribs are off from each other, he did say it's basically being redundant on the other side but when you look down the ribs are not the same on both sides they're off by like a half
excellent detail!
@@tonycosta7973 thank you!
Nice video. Never done this kind of roof before but i wonder if caulking around every screw with osi or something similar be a good idea to reduce chances of leaks. I know it would take a while but id rather do that than have to repair any interior damage. Thoughts?
No need for that as long as the screws were installed properly. Also it probably be a bit unsightly. As the screws and washers are dipped to paint match.
Best to install properly the first time. Then in 20 years when the washers are no good. Replace all the screws with color matched 14x2 screws.
I'm from Bangladesh. Love you sir
I have an exposed fastener metal roof and really like it but once the screw grommets deteriorate leaks will pop up pretty often
nice...thanks 4 this video. ive ever only done a traditional shingle roof and youve saved me a ton of money by not doing the plywood sheathing first. on the foam part does it have to be the 4x8 sheets or can it be the 4x125 rolls of bubble stuff?
Excellent video thankyou, I heard you say Sherwin Williams, my favorite paint - What panel system are you using that uses that please?
Thank you
Excellent
Thank you!
Perfect!
Man can you do a regular roof deck of OSB when you're doing metal?
It’s recommended that you do 2x4s on new buildings. OSB for shingles only. You could ask the manufacturer for their opinion. Hope that helps!
You wouldnt want osb under this metal roof (as opposed to standing seam), id go with plywood for its wetting potential. You will want to cover the osb/plywood with a self adheared weather barrier and on top of that add 1x3 furring strips so there is drying potential. Then youd install the metal roof the same way. If you're doing all that, though, probably want to go with standing seam
@@Austin-fc5gsI always use 1/2" 4ply it's nice for sound dampening too
No roof decking?
Instead of cutting off the last sheet why not over lap to save time
Do extreme temps like below zero or above 100 affect the exposed fasteners?
Damn good ❤.
Job
@@kennethhlavik8155 Thank you so much!
How much do you charge per square foot for installing this metal vicwest in usa, just for the labor?
What kind of paint did you buy at Sherwin-Williams?
At 24:15 you introduce the ripping attachment. Where can i get one?
Is this process cheaper than a conventional shingle roof method?
How are screws so tight they never leak? I guess you add some kind of rubber band to make a tight sealed gap
Hello mr.. 💪💪💪👍👍👍👍good.
Where can I buy a roll of that vent closure?
I HAVE TO ASK. WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN STORING THAT FRAMING SQUARE?
It’s funny you ask because I forgot my framing square that day and had to use an old one stored in the barn on the property. It’s still worked! Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborerI have an old framing square from my father just like this one.
At 24:15 you introduced that ripping attachment. Please tell me where I van get one
He includes the link to purchase it in the description.
Isnt that wall flashing not drip edge?
We have always called that trim drip edge. Thanks for watching!
@@TheExcellentLaborer Of course! Love the channel!
WHY NO OSB WOOD ON THE ROOF ?
moisture/condensation and osb is like a sponge
OK... How much was this project? Seriously, I need to know I have a building about the same size and pitch, including labor.
Thanks mate , this is very helpful !👏👏😎
Where did you buy the roof? lol
Curious. $5,000 in material. Can you share the labor cost?
So you don’t put any screws into the high ribs?
Yes you should put the screws on the ribs they hardly need the rubber seals when you screw it there so years later when the rubber crumbles it won’t leak
Guess what
this roof will leak guaranteed if you are in a part of the country that gets snow and very cold temperatures producing ice on the roof. 😂
I have a two storage garages in and area that is about 90 deg for 6 months a year but in jan to end of feb it can get very cold. And both my units have leaks from ice shearing off a few screws here and there,
when the downpours of rain came in March and April there were puddles in my storage and some building materials were ruined . 😢
I will always do standing seam for a metal roof...
For a buliding for myself...
No matter how much more the cost or time you have to put in . 😂
The reason for a roof is so that it protects the area underneath from getting wet.
If it is going to leak what good is it. 😢
Aussie roofer here.
Why do you guys screw on the flats and not the rib? That's actually illegal over my entire country. Both because that's where the water is, and also because when you pin the metal and wood together with a screw the sheets buckle with heat changes.
Now I understand you guys use thinner metal to us, which would explain the need for extra support under the sheets as our purlins are 800mm apart. Also I suppose you guys have snow where we don't.
But mostly why screw the bottom? There is no advantage to it that any roofer has ever given me. 50mm Tek screws are designed to hold from the top and allow heat stress
From what I read so far online: Some panels are made to be screwed on the "valley" because screwing on the ridge could easily crush it down (cheap metal?) and compromise the roof. I guess it depends on the manufacturer
why doesnt your ribs line up to each side of the roof?
You can cut the first panel of metal to line up if you want. Thats an irrelevant detail when it comes to functionality. I hope that helps!
Worked from left to right both sides and changed the overlap as well some manufacturers recommend sealing the overlap as well working left to right then right to left an the sustained wind rain direction should tell you which direction the overlap goes and some manufacture use a self tap screw on the joints to hold sheets together
👍🔨
Thanks for stopping by!
This man is so handsome!!!
Also married.
a lot different to how it's done in australia
Bro, you missed a lot of bicep days. Ik you like your chest & puships, but plz do some curls. 😉🙃
Love the work though. Keep it up. I watch every video. ❤
Look looks like the roof has a wave to it.
There is no wave to the roof. The camera lens will create that look if you look close enough. I hope that helps!
screws in the rib only not in the flat if you are going too do it do it wright
The manufacture says on the flat except where sheets overlap
Doing it wrong year after year doesn’t make it correct
It’s gonna be raining inside the building with no OSB and insulation under the metal roofing!
Always screw on the rib never on the flat.