This is an EXCELLENT tutorial video on installing a metal roof!! I just did the roof on my timber framed pavilion I built and the info in this video was instrumental in making sure my first metal roof install was super smooth. Thanks!!
I'm almost done my garage. This is a young mans jobs. Brutal. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill. It has a brake. You can adjust the screw tension by twisting the drill by hand. I highly recommend it.
Good info, Don’t forget to pre drill your screw lines on the metal, keep them straight. And use master flashings on chimney and plumbing flashings. Another note is to use enclosure foam along the eave under the panel to prevent moisture and debris from blowing up the rib and under the panel
@@DSkimRS pilot holes take less than 10 minutes and can turn your job from a farmers quick and dirty to a professional quality job. Straight clean lines make a world of difference. You’ll never be able to eyeball the screw lines straight ans if you’re measuring or using a chalk like as you go you’ll be wasting far more time than piloting holes while your metal is still in a stack on the pallet.
I just finished one side of a 48 by 16 foot roof on my mother's bungalow , 4/12 pitch, using 28 gauge panels 3 feet wide . I did not pre-drill The first few panels and found that I could not drive the screw without marking and punching the hole first . To do this I had to work on my knees with multiple tools in my hand , and I had to build a jiffy roof ladder to support myself. The final panels were marked and pre-drilled in a stack of 6 panels . This made it easier to line them up on the roof , and most importantly I could drill by standing over the holes with just the screw and driver to deal with . It took only a few seconds to drill each hole , compared to over a minute per hole the other way , and there were no filings around the screw head.. The manufacturer recommended ridge drilling , and every house in our Canadian town had ridge drilling . So , always pre-drill.
@@iluvdrywall I dunno; maybe all metal-roofing screws are made self-drilling by default, but if yours aren't you'll probably dent the ridge tops trying to get them to puncture the metal to where the threads can grab. I'd definitely test this out on some scrap first.
I've put screws in both ways. the screws loosen up over time. I fine it better to use seal tape on the over laps and screw on the ridges. Also the screws in the flats cause leaks and catch leaves and cause build up over time ! I removed old shingles use 30 lb felt installed with no furring strips (flat on roof) and used inside closers at the eves ! I had an Insurance adjuster comment, he had seen several metal roofs come up after strong winds (the closer strips prevent that).
I like this video i have my first metal roof estimate to give this weekend exposed fastener over shingles just like this. I like everything but ill be putting down underlayment or bubble insulation before the furring straps for condensation purposes also will be using inside foam and outside faom for the eaves and ridge caps cant forget the butyl tape!
pretty good detail in your explanation. Red chalk always stains it's why i love it when im doing tile. I just bought a big fixer upper and i was going to try doing a metal roof for the first time it looks pretty easy ive done a ton of remodels and stuff and this was very helpful thank you. it's the small details that make the job better. Love it
so I will tell you this from experience. Manufactures want you to screw on the flat for 2 reasons. It is easier to get a proper layment of the panel and they want to sell their newer more expensive products. If you are experienced enough you can place the screws properly on the rib and this is the best way to go for many reasons. As he stated the roof flexes and moves. with the screws on the rib it allows the roof to flex. On the flat it causes far more resistance to flex and will cause the screws to either back out. damage the washers or even break the screw heads off. When going through the rib I use 2 inch screws to solve the issues he demonstrated. when on the rib pre drilling helps prevent problems. If you have a faulty screw on the rib will leak 99 percent less than a faulty screw on the flat. I predrill only on the laps and trim pieces. I started putting through the roof on the threads of the screws just after they penetrate the metal. Do this right and your screws will remain water tight for over 60 years,,, do it on the flat and I can guarantee you are replacing most of them in under 20 years. Also never install exposed fastener panels without purlins except in buildings that are not heated. NEVER. I have repaired so many roofs that were screwed on the flat....
I have on a few occasions installed insulation (EPS or poly-iso) underneath the metal but in these instances I still used the wood strips over top of the insulation. While the fan fold would do well to insulate and separate the metal from the decking or shingles, it would not accomplish several of the important tasks of the wood strips. These include: 1) Establishing a solid and dependable surface to attach the metal to. 2) Creating an air gap beneath the panel to facilitate better ventilation
To put an end to the debate of flat vs rib. We built two 18x40 sheds, one went on the ribs the others in the flats, after 15 years the flats have had a few leaks and needed more screws replaced. The ribs have been leak proof and have not needed any to be replaced. Always screw on the rib, never on the flat.
I was really confused why they’d demonstrate that screw location “for a roof”. For a wall, screwing on the flat is fine, but for a roof I’d never screw on the flat.
@@robtmohrI know, I'm in the northern Canada and no one ever does it in the flat, I asked about 5 different roofers and they all said we've done on the flat before like they said and they always have issues. You just have to be careful not to over tighten on the rib
Never screw on the rib. Expansion and contraction will move that screw back and forth and loosen it over time. Unless you want to use 3" screws. Also roof rakes will hang up on all them screw heads sticking up. And another reason is that it bows the rest of the panel up and deforms the ribs. Its almost impossible not to. Just don't do it.
@@DominatraVon like I said we did it to test. Flat will leak, metal doesn't move under, you have to be careful to to tighten just to comoress the washer and not pull on the rib. Snow rakes do with the top but we now use the snow cutter with the plastic slide. Works better anyways. Now screwing on the flat where snow and ice melt and refrezzes all winter long is where the failure seems to be happening the most when people screw on the flat. You can do both but here in the north where it hit - 40 and plus 35 the flat method just seems to fail more often. Take your time and screw on the rib and you'll be in a better situation. Screwing on the flat is easier but up here everyone learned their lesson and all kn the rib now
Fantastic video! I am planning on having a metal roof installed on a gable roof at our home in northern Michigan. There, we get a lot of snow and I would like to have a roof that will not have to be replaced every 10 ~ 15 years like a asphalt roof. I will hire the work to be done, but with your video, I will know what questions to ask the installer to see if they know! Thanks again.
Karl Schwab metal roofs are great but asphalt architectual shingles if installed properly should last 25-30 years in any conditions. Also if you are set on metal i would strongly consider Standing Seam. It has no visible fasteners and looks amazing and lasts much longer than 5 rib. It will cost more but be well worth it.
With snow and metal roofing…when u get a heavy snow, ur gonna have to make sure u can budge the snow so it slides off right. Away because if it’s allowed to melt a bit and then refreeze, it creates a dangerous situation..,that sheet of ice will come down suddenly and can injure or kill someone quickly…this is one disadvantage of metal roofing in snow areas…otherwise metal roofing is the best way to go…lasts a lot longer
We just measure where the furring strips are and clamp like 10 sheets together at a time and just pre drill the holes through the sheets to get a straight screw line and easier starting the screw..just make sure to use a smaller or close to same size bit as the screws
An easy way to keep the screws in a nice line is to use one of the spring retractors commonly used for keys, security cards, etc and use a magnetic hook on each end. The magnets commonly have a hole in the middle that sits over the previous panels last screw and put the other on the metal center of 2x or a chalkline.
Bit old post but just a few considerations, install insulation in the lathes gap and always use butyl tape under the screw lines, plus butyl mastic under the overlaps, your panels should never leak and can still expand etc.
I am a roofing contractor where there is snow and Ice build up. I have lost count how many rotten facia boards and bottom of the roof deck I have replaced when Lazy contractors just strapped a old asphalt roof and didn't think about ice build up or condensation forming under the metal. I always recommend tearing the roof and installing a proper high temp underlayment. Plus you don't have to worry about water overshooting the gutters.
Hello Shawn. How about if I tear the old roof off down to the deck, lay down 30# felt, and then install the panels flat on the felt? I didn't put straps down... Do you strap it even if you tear the old roof off? I ordered synthetic felt with my material, but the order got messed up and I didn't receive the synthetic felt, so I bought 30# locally.
Great video.. 71 yo so I won't be doing the work myself.... BUT... my intention on watching this video to see how it is done properly and learn the "lingo"..si that i will know just how good a job the folks I hire are doing.
Great video series. Now seeing it after it's been up 11 years now. I'm in the Caribbean. We use metal roofing on nearly every house here. However we don't use the screws in the valley of the sheeting. The reason is the rubbers on the screws are never installed perfectly, and being rubber under high temperature daily, they disintegrate, so we use the screws on the top of the ridge. Trust me a metal roof is the best. However when I lived in Florida, it seems they use obnoxious rules in building codes to prevent you. For example they said my house needed a 2:12 pitch at least. Why you ask? It's all about what drives the economy. Roofing repairs are big business. A metal roof could probably last you 50 years, while you're changing shingles, and asphalt "roll roofing" ever 12 years or so...15 if you're lucky.
No, many of these panels don't have a flat area on the top of the rib. They are rounded, and a screw will not seal on these crowns. The manufacturer tells you too screw on the lower flat area. I've installed a few of these. They don't leak if you install them as shown in the video.
Okay, you yanks are clearly using a cheaper inferior product. Who is the manufacturer and what is the product name? I reckon the metal on this product is thinner than used in Australia and the profile is also inferior - probably cheaper to manufacture a sheet with a rounder ridge top than to put 2 folds in the metal to create a flat ridge top.
Tony Stark It all depends on what gage metal you want to buy. Obviously the thicker the more expensive. I pwrsonally would not wven use this type of metal for my house as there is much better out there. Standing seam is the way i would go. It is very thick and there is no screws exposed whatsoever. It makes for a very clean look that lasts forever.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and intelligence on how too... Didn't realize there are multiple parts of videos. My apologies for thinking a head.
I've pre-measured and pre-drilled the holes on the ground. Stack 5 or 6 sheets and pre drill them. Easy peezy. Worked like a charm. But I'm just here looking for pointers.
Never ever put screws in the valleys. Always on the ridges. If u put them in the vally you will always have problems over the years..trust me I have a 100 yr old roof
All because they work some place doesn't make them an expert. I'm just saying what I know after owning a 100+ year old home with a tin roof for 30 years. I've had a roofer 30 year vet do my roof when I was sick and I'm still dealing with screws in the valleys. Once you put that whole in the vally it will always be there no matter how you cover it. Tar & fiber seal is only a band aid
off2f it’s an ongoing argument and honestly it doesn’t make a difference. The screw is holding out water no matter where it’s installed, and if it’s not then it needs to be replaced regardless of where it was put in
Think what you want. I'm going by what I have learned on my +100 year old house and I've never had any problems until i got sick and had to get a roofer to work on my +100 year old roof and he put screws in the valleys and ice dams habe caused problems all the time, you can say I'm wrong all you want but I lived in this house for over 30 years and always took care of it myself and never had an issue until i got sick and had to get some dum half wit roofer to coolseal it and he thought it need screws in all the valleys where there was never a nail let alone a screw
off2f I’ve installed numerous metal roofs (that don’t leak) with every screw in the valley, your roofer did something wrong if it leaks after putting screws in the valleys. And it wasn’t putting the screws there that caused the leak
Thirdly, a lot of information in the US talks about replacing the rubber washers about every 15 years. This is something that never has to be done in Aus. I think this idea of screwing through the flat comes from an installation point of view, it is much easier to screw through the flat and you don't have to worry about over tightening the screws and getting the sheets out of square, so less skilled labor can be used. The problem is you are relying to heavily on the washers to seal the roof.
I know nothing about putting on a metal roof, but with the snow and Ice here in mid Illinois I would think that the screws should go on the ridge, this will at least keep the melting snow or ice water away from the screws quicker.
@@stevewilson2158 Thanks for this comment. I'll be installing a metal roof for the first time in the next week or so. The place where I'm buying the panels says to put the screws on the rib/ridge, while this video and others says put them in the flat area. Where have you installed? I'm in Houston.
Just been watching my neighbor two doors up from us having the second asphalt shingle roof installation in about the last 12 years. Our metal roof has been in place since 1999. It's still got a few years left on the paint warranty. Meridian panels by McElroy that cost us about $3,500 in materials for a 17 plus square roof. That's about half the cost of the crappy asphalt shingles the neighbor is going having installed for materials. It makes no sense to me why anyone favors buying new roofs every 15 to 20 years at increasingly expensive prices based on oil when metal roofs can last lifetimes. Our energy savings in the summer have paid for the metal roof at least once already.
Well then if I am so wrong why does Lysaght the main supplier of metal roofing in Australia specifically say in their installation manual "Crest fixing for roof or walls; Valley fixing for walls only". Second to that why is every metal roof in Aus screwed through the ridge and we have no problems with leaking or movement even in extreme wind.
Excellent video. Do you have any info on using the f gable trim that goes under the metal panel and how they are tabbed and lapped to flow water properly. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Where I come from they often use currogated metal sheets, and common practice is to put screws through the crests (the ridge) rather than the valley part as water running into the valleys with screws makes the roof more leak prone. Is this not a concern for sheets with an angular profile and larger distance betwen ridges like in the video?
I have done enough of these to do it wrong. As far as screwing the flats are best I've done it both ways and the ridges will leak. There is just too much movement in the tin with temp differents. After a couple years the screws on the ridge will leak. Flats minimize movement
To keep warranty valid, metal roofs (28GA) from American Building Components specify screws on the flat. Even though the top of the ridge is nearly flat.
Lol, "if the house isnt square" is the understated quote of the year in South Carolina shesh... You bring a level you'll be there all day trying to fix stupid lol
I remember many years ago as a young Iron Worker apprentice from time to time i'd get sent to work on Butler type metal buildings,what a royal pain in the ass,insulation different type screws. I remember the roofs caulking,insulation seam screws,drills i could care less if i never seen another one! But i remember the roof seam screws especially,was very easy to strip them and probably leaked at some point!
A common question. There are a few reasons why we don't put the screws in the top of the rib. This type of panel in not designed for that application. The top of the rib is rounded and does not provide a flat, secure place for the screw's washer to seat and seal well. Also, putting the screws there causes the panel to 'fishmouth' slightly at the bottom, causing unsightly gaps where the panel meets the drip edge trim.
Hi guys, I place my screws on top rounded ridge and push them in so the metal just wants to start to bend, I am going to a farm tommorrow to fix a roof leaking all over by its screws. i already looked and priced it. Some of the neoprene pushed down to far as you said and decayed quickly. Others are screw pops. I like to penetrate any wood on a roof nail or screw. where i live from frost pops. I am in Ontario north a bit and i see lots of screws mostly nails pop. thx for some tips. we all can learn from each other. i also place to pieces of metal in the middle of the roof where im going to start. have two guys go to each end of the roof. Line it one ich from drip edge. and p[lace metal squared to both ends knoiwing even how much overhang i need in the farest point from facia. I feel 100 percent confident by doing it right. If i want pieces to start in a certain place chalk line above fadding the two distances from each end in the measurement. perfect.I hardly ever staircase metal unless roof is actually dipping here and there badly. But overall i appreciate your video.
RoofingIntelligence.com please can you tell me how many inches have the nail you use for put the wood on the shingle and tell me please what kind of bolt you use for nail the metal roof. Thank you.
RoofingIntelligence.com How do you measure the width of a roof,so panels can fit right and the amount will be purchased rightly instead of being short or over purchased. Thanks
15:17 By a simple rip, you leave a loophole that can leak ie with rake on to come over and with butyl tape seal off, eventually there will come a time when the butyl tape will leak or other imperfection, rain can (in bad storm with sideways /diagonal rain) be forced under the rake and go to the edge, leach around the edge and destroy your wood decking on the roof edge); its better to leave 1" extra over the edge , bend it back on top of itself to where its below 1/2 " high, so you have an extra rib manually made just where you need it on the edge underneath the rake, giving you double protection for only a quick bend back over time & effort.
What is the best way to plug or repair screw holes? I have several salvaged panels I’m going to make a 12’ X 15’ storage shelter for my tractor and I’m going to have lots of extra little screw holes. Thanks. Great video.
I had used metal for my barn.instead of filling the old holes I used them by trimming the panels to match the strapping underneath.or you could install the strapping to match the holes.mine was a reroof job so I cut panels to match the holes.I guess you might waste too much roofing but I had lots of length.another method you could use is to sheath the roof with OSB or plywood and use all the holes.in lieu of that you would use a quality silicone sealer and fill the holes
I have a question about the bottom of the vent cap or pipe cap. There is no screws that do into the corners of the horseshoe cut roof piece that covers the top of the pipe vent,cover? At about minute 14:25 to 15 when your start talking about the install of the last roof piece. It shows the horse shoe cut in the roof panel with no screws to anchor it? Is that meant to be left unscrewed or screwed and you just didnt address it in this video? thanks informative
Great question: NO, don't put screws there. I see why you would want to but this area is vulnerable to water getting in under the that top panel and then leaking in the screw holes underneath the panel.
The only way to get 1st panel square is using the 3-4-5 & square to the eve straight line. I measure & start in the middle. I also predrill & use 2x4 strapping.
15:30 put screws on top of the ridges, pre-drill exactly on top for screws to be exactly on top of the triangle ridge minimizing leaks in the valleys where every raindrop can leak at a bad washer screw point , remem: all washers eventually crack and leak). so on top means only a direct hit from a raindrop even has a chance to leaks, paint the washers after install to minimize sun drying out, re-chk ev yr , retighten re-paint as needed.
House has a flat roof. No attic or crawl space for duct work and therefore the house is crazy stupid hot especially in summer here in FL. I would like to know the basics on what options are to get some lift on the roof. If not for creating a crawl space; to atleast give lift or create additional distance between the old & the new roof. Which the new roof preference is metal.
Hi, Ive just done my conservatory roof using the 100mm (4") insulated steel sheets and really it was so easy and its so strong i have a span of 2.7m (9') with only end support and i can walk on it
+Chris Manno Most of the videos I've seen on this use 1x4s and space them 2 feet on center. What I've also seen (and seems like a good idea) is to use 3/4 inch thick foam board insulation (Mylar backed) in between the strips. A 1x4 is actually 3/4 x 3 1/2 in size. It acts as support for the metal panels when you need to step on them so the screws don't elongate the holes, fills the void so strong winds can't lift the panels from underneath and adds insulation.
1x4 is ok for a shed or lean to depending on slope.if it steeper then 1x4 is ok .on a low slope I would use 2x4.and on a house the optimum would be 2x4
They sell snow guards or breaks that are usually staggered in 2 rows that screw on top of your panels roughly 2 feet apart. I almost learned about them the hard way when approx. 12 inches of snow on top of 16 foot high building all came of at once just missing a customer! Building was 30 feet to peak x 12 inches snow x 3 foot wide door is 90 cubic foot. On average that would be like 900 lbs hitting you from 16 foot high. The next day we were installing snow breaks across entire building
In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and still going strong after paint jobs and inspection (we did these in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the height of the corrugated. If you put them in the low spots you do not have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in low spots get in the way of serviceability and leak when you have to go on the roof 10 years later when you have to go up and do repairs. You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low spots without causing the screws to leak and damage, I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. Always strip the asphalt roof! Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or bending the roof.
***** I've never had any steel dimple or dent on the ridges when screws were put through. Aluminum is easier for that to happen. That said...yes you have to be careful and practice when torquing these or it can bow up the flats. This entire debate over where to put the screws is attributed to the thinner, higher strength materials which effects the installation process/time and skill to install etc.Putting in the flats also allows the metal roofs to be put onto runners with much fewer fasten points, which again is cost of installation instead of having a shingle less solid surface underneath. Can't see how your job came out but as it is a steep roof and shed...and a practice run for you? I would not worry too much. If it is really bugging you how it came out...Might be nice to do one side one way and one another if you want the experience and would be nice to see the comparison results in 10-15 if we are all still around...
+Harry Brown I doubt you will have any issues with the screws installed in the ridges. I did an entire roof this way and there were only 2 downsides that I could find about doing it this way. 1. I found it somewhat difficult to get enough pressure to start the screws in the ridges and sometimes I had the screws slip when trying to initially penetrate. This could be due to how hard the panels were, not sure. 2. I found myself getting pretty far out of square with this method. I was attaching the panels from the top and I didn't realize that I was tightening the upper screws too much when I was putting the panel in place. The grommets around the screws were not indicative of them being too tight, what was happening instead was the pressure on the ridges was bringing up the flat portions of the panel. It was very little per panel, but after a few panels it started to get pretty noticeable. I was able to rectify some of this by over tightening the lower screws later, but I think it could have been avoided had I put the screws in the valleys.
It seems that way, eddie, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.
+voluntown - Installing the fasteners in the ribs means all fasteners are loose, and after 40 years many buildings have moved extensively and have weakened especially in the wind. With good fasteners, installed in the flats with the correct torque, you will get 40 years easily. Replacing the fasteners after around 30 years is also quite common. If you want strength without maintenance, go with hidden fastener steel roofing choices.
I took shingles off put down peel and stick underlayment, chalked lined my trusses to screw 2x4 wood strips to and put 1 1/2 Styrofoam insulation in between strips. I did the same screw lines as you for top and bottom but through the highrib everywhere else. Now I want to use self etching primer and cool coat silicone roof paint. Any suggestions on self etching primer on corrugated galvalume?
I still like screwing on the ribs, those 2-3 cent washers will not last forever, and will leak more in the low part vs. the rib. I predrill the panels on the ground with a sharp bit.
I got a little confused about the location of the last panel you installed; did you put the "panel you ripped to size "underneath the previous panel? or over the previous panel; I,m referring to the edge that was cut with the factory edge facing toward the end of the roof; the cut edge "OVER OR UNDER the PREVIOUS PANEL?? GOING LEFT TO RIGHT; VERY GOOD VIDEO LEARNING AS I GO; THANK YOU,PATRICK.P
Wow. I dont use the wood underneath I just nailed it all down Then I siliconed all the panels together and over the nails. I left about 8 inches overhang to save on buying the metal edge parts.
Do you have to build a box around your vent pipes underneath the metal so the screws will catch I'm doing a metal roof over a tin roof on a single wide I did the firing strips and insulation in between the furring strips I have another vent pipe so if I need to do it then I need to do that one right
I also see that you installed the screws they go in the ridge part of the metal not in valley think about it water dt run up hill an the rubber on screw will last long an not leak...
I'm glad someone else spoke up. Hell I sure thought that putting the screw in the valley makes no sense at all. That's where the water is going to be. While panels are on the ground you can stack them and go every 2 foot or so, but remember to designate one side or the other and do not drill screw holes, because when you run the panels there will be holes in the over lapping area. By doing it this way you can just reach across the panels,drop screw in pre drilled holes and you don't have to walk across your panels . The screws will be perfectly in line with the other ones. Good luck
Awesome video! Could you install metal roofing over battens that are attached to roofing rafters (no osb decking) if closed cell spray foam was applied underneath?
I am replacing the existing flat roof over my two car garage because of water damage to the top as well as the plywood sheathing underneath. Q1: Can I install this metal roof panel over the joist or do I need to install new plywood sheathing over the joist and then the metal roof on top of the plywood? Q2: If I install the metal roof over the plywood, do I need to install anything on top of the plywood before installing the metal panel? Q3: Do I need to caulk or seal the top of the fastening screws to prevent any potential water leak?
What do you call the profile on that roof sheet? It looks like trimdeck. On trimdeck the top of the rib is basically flat and in Australia you always screw into the top of the rib because any rain will runoff into the wide flat valley almost immediately. From the comments it sounds like the top of the rib on this profile is rounded which isn't obvious in the video. In Australia a corrugated profile is mostly used and again is screwed on the top of the rib which with corrugation is rounded. A corrugated profile is used on steeper pitched roofs (more than 20 degree pitch). Trimdeck is used on flat roof pitches (5 -20 degree pitch). A pitch of less than 5 degrees requires clipdeck with no screwing - clips are mounted on the roof frame and the sheet is pushed onto the clips to be held. I would not screw into the flat as this is where all the water is diverted too and any problem with the rubber seal will mean a greater quantity of water penetrating the roof sheet. At least on top of the rib a fault with the seal will only permit minimal water entry as the sheet profile quickly diverts water off the rib to the valley/flat.
Confirmed by watching another American video. This American roof sheet is cheap junk by Australian standards. Initially it appears to be a trimdeck profile but a closer look shows the top of the ridge is rounded and the ridge height looks to be around 25mm whereas trimdeck is around 39mm from memory. Also based on the amount of flex in this product when being handled it appears the metal is much thinner than used in Australia. My conclusion is they screw in the flats to compensate for the poor quality of the product they are using.
One thing I don't understand why is the skinny side on top of the fat side ? In my opinion, if there is heavy rain with strong wind it will much quicker leak . If the fat side is overlapping the wind can never drive the water all the way up ? I must say the bit that I done was with the fat side on top . And never a drop of water on the underneath side . Ireland
The panels are made to fit together with the skinny side on top. They are manufactured so that water will not capillary up and over the rib if they are installed correctly. Also, I've seen several instances where debris/leaves get trapped under the fat lip and which then caused leaks.
i just installed a metal roof on a shed. i didn't put the fat end down first, the shed is just for firewood so nothing important to worry about. can you explain why the fat end goes down first? thanks - dana
Thank you SO MUCH!!! for the DETAIL of the screw placement, and details like taking the time to wipe the chalk line chalk down after. You showed to put the screws on the flat of the sheet. Not the hip (rib) I can't tell you how many roofs I seen (and done!!!) where the screws are on the rib. The bottom screw will be on the flat, but rest will be on the rib. Again Thank you
How air will circulate under metal sheets? I would suggest to install vertical strips and on top horizontal strips, so air would circulate . Just closed horizontal strips will rot in couple of years.
30 years ago I left the SE US, moved to Pacific NW and now I am back in Florida. I am shocked to see roofers using metal screws on the flat and not on the ridges. I've taken down a several metal roofs. I always find leakage, as much as 50% of the screws leaking on a 20year old roof. I've found many more leaks with screws "on the flat" than with "nails on the ridge". INVARIABLY, the as the wood ages, the wood no longer holds the screws tight and leaks develop. It seems the "best practice goal" is no exposed fasteners. Can you discuss these issues?
@momento6704 put them in the rib and you can get 20 years out of them. I've replaced 50 year old roofs where the screw rubber is completely deteriorated but still didn't leak
This is by far one of the best installation videos I’ve seen on you tube . Thank you for sharing.
Indeed!!!
This is an EXCELLENT tutorial video on installing a metal roof!! I just did the roof on my timber framed pavilion I built and the info in this video was instrumental in making sure my first metal roof install was super smooth. Thanks!!
Glad it helped!
House, barn and 4 out buildings with metal. This is an excellent video
“It’s easy to get off, when you’re screwing”. Truer words were never spoke. 😂
That is a fact!!
I like to pilot drill my fastener locations on the ground ahead o time
Really helpful video. Thank you! Installing a metal roof on my workshop tomorrow, this has given me lots to think about.
This is the most useful roofing video I've found. Thanks so much. Wish I'd seen this before I roofed the house 40 years ago.
I'm almost done my garage. This is a young mans jobs. Brutal. I have a Milwaukee cordless drill. It has a brake. You can adjust the screw tension by twisting the drill by hand. I highly recommend it.
I usually stack them on a sawhorse and pre drill them and it serves two purposes, keeps the screws straight and it is easier to start the screws
Good info, Don’t forget to pre drill your screw lines on the metal, keep them straight. And use master flashings on chimney and plumbing flashings. Another note is to use enclosure foam along the eave under the panel to prevent moisture and debris from blowing up the rib and under the panel
Good tips!
get self drilling screws so u dont have to waste time with pilot holes
@@DSkimRS pilot holes take less than 10 minutes and can turn your job from a farmers quick and dirty to a professional quality job. Straight clean lines make a world of difference. You’ll never be able to eyeball the screw lines straight ans if you’re measuring or using a chalk like as you go you’ll be wasting far more time than piloting holes while your metal is still in a stack on the pallet.
@@RainMaker94 that's a great idea
Pre-drilling is not required when you use a impact driver.
One of the better videos on roofing.thank you.
I just finished one side of a 48 by 16 foot roof on my mother's bungalow , 4/12 pitch, using 28 gauge panels 3 feet wide . I did not pre-drill The first few panels and found that I could not drive the screw without marking and punching the hole first . To do this I had to work on my knees with multiple tools in my hand , and I had to build a jiffy roof ladder to support myself. The final panels were marked and pre-drilled in a stack of 6 panels . This made it easier to line them up on the roof , and most importantly I could drill by standing over the holes with just the screw and driver to deal with . It took only a few seconds to drill each hole , compared to over a minute per hole the other way , and there were no filings around the screw head.. The manufacturer recommended ridge drilling , and every house in our Canadian town had ridge drilling . So , always pre-drill.
Use self tapping screws and make sure they have washers on them or they will leak
Pre-drilling is not required when you use a impact driver.
@@iluvdrywall I dunno; maybe all metal-roofing screws are made self-drilling by default, but if yours aren't you'll probably dent the ridge tops trying to get them to puncture the metal to where the threads can grab. I'd definitely test this out on some scrap first.
I’ve read in MANY places that you should never predrill.
Do you use longer screws? Or do just the tips of the screws hold the metal panels on?
I'm putting new metal roofing on my tinyhome next week, weather depending, and this was extremely helpful.
What a great demo. I like how you went into the reason that you do or don't want to do certain things. Thanks!
I've put screws in both ways. the screws loosen up over time. I fine it better to use seal tape on the over laps and screw on the ridges. Also the screws in the flats cause leaks and catch leaves and cause build up over time ! I removed old shingles use 30 lb felt installed with no furring strips (flat on roof) and used inside closers at the eves ! I had an Insurance adjuster comment, he had seen several metal roofs come up after strong winds (the closer strips prevent that).
I enjoyed this. We put a new roof like this on the tractor shed. 24x80. Had it done in 3 hours. 3 people made it nice.
I like this video i have my first metal roof estimate to give this weekend exposed fastener over shingles just like this. I like everything but ill be putting down underlayment or bubble insulation before the furring straps for condensation purposes also will be using inside foam and outside faom for the eaves and ridge caps cant forget the butyl tape!
Well done Sir . Said with finesse & no fluff!
Very well done, clearly explained, excellent instructions for this DIY guy.
You answered so many questions that I had.................Many thanks.
Excellent instructions. Thank you for posting.
pretty good detail in your explanation. Red chalk always stains it's why i love it when im doing tile. I just bought a big fixer upper and i was going to try doing a metal roof for the first time it looks pretty easy ive done a ton of remodels and stuff and this was very helpful thank you. it's the small details that make the job better. Love it
Glad it was helpful!
Iooking job roof sub ples
so I will tell you this from experience. Manufactures want you to screw on the flat for 2 reasons. It is easier to get a proper layment of the panel and they want to sell their newer more expensive products. If you are experienced enough you can place the screws properly on the rib and this is the best way to go for many reasons. As he stated the roof flexes and moves. with the screws on the rib it allows the roof to flex. On the flat it causes far more resistance to flex and will cause the screws to either back out. damage the washers or even break the screw heads off. When going through the rib I use 2 inch screws to solve the issues he demonstrated. when on the rib pre drilling helps prevent problems. If you have a faulty screw on the rib will leak 99 percent less than a faulty screw on the flat. I predrill only on the laps and trim pieces. I started putting through the roof on the threads of the screws just after they penetrate the metal. Do this right and your screws will remain water tight for over 60 years,,, do it on the flat and I can guarantee you are replacing most of them in under 20 years. Also never install exposed fastener panels without purlins except in buildings that are not heated. NEVER. I have repaired so many roofs that were screwed on the flat....
I have on a few occasions installed insulation (EPS or poly-iso) underneath the metal but in these instances I still used the wood strips over top of the insulation. While the fan fold would do well to insulate and separate the metal from the decking or shingles, it would not accomplish several of the important tasks of the wood strips. These include:
1) Establishing a solid and dependable surface to attach the metal to.
2) Creating an air gap beneath the panel to facilitate better ventilation
Best video ever for metal roofing.if anyone knows of a better one please let me know
To put an end to the debate of flat vs rib. We built two 18x40 sheds, one went on the ribs the others in the flats, after 15 years the flats have had a few leaks and needed more screws replaced. The ribs have been leak proof and have not needed any to be replaced. Always screw on the rib, never on the flat.
I was really confused why they’d demonstrate that screw location “for a roof”. For a wall, screwing on the flat is fine, but for a roof I’d never screw on the flat.
@@robtmohrI know, I'm in the northern Canada and no one ever does it in the flat, I asked about 5 different roofers and they all said we've done on the flat before like they said and they always have issues. You just have to be careful not to over tighten on the rib
Never screw on the rib. Expansion and contraction will move that screw back and forth and loosen it over time. Unless you want to use 3" screws. Also roof rakes will hang up on all them screw heads sticking up. And another reason is that it bows the rest of the panel up and deforms the ribs. Its almost impossible not to. Just don't do it.
@@DominatraVon like I said we did it to test. Flat will leak, metal doesn't move under, you have to be careful to to tighten just to comoress the washer and not pull on the rib. Snow rakes do with the top but we now use the snow cutter with the plastic slide. Works better anyways. Now screwing on the flat where snow and ice melt and refrezzes all winter long is where the failure seems to be happening the most when people screw on the flat. You can do both but here in the north where it hit - 40 and plus 35 the flat method just seems to fail more often. Take your time and screw on the rib and you'll be in a better situation. Screwing on the flat is easier but up here everyone learned their lesson and all kn the rib now
@@DominatraVon no. he did a real test....always will leak on the flat, not on the rib.
Fantastic video! I am planning on having a metal roof installed on a gable roof at our home in northern Michigan. There, we get a lot of snow and I would like to have a roof that will not have to be replaced every 10 ~ 15 years like a asphalt roof. I will hire the work to be done, but with your video, I will know what questions to ask the installer to see if they know! Thanks again.
Karl Schwab metal roofs are great but asphalt architectual shingles if installed properly should last 25-30 years in any conditions. Also if you are set on metal i would strongly consider Standing Seam. It has no visible fasteners and looks amazing and lasts much longer than 5 rib. It will cost more but be well worth it.
With snow and metal roofing…when u get a heavy snow, ur gonna have to make sure u can budge the snow so it slides off right. Away because if it’s allowed to melt a bit and then refreeze, it creates a dangerous situation..,that sheet of ice will come down suddenly and can injure or kill someone quickly…this is one disadvantage of metal roofing in snow areas…otherwise metal roofing is the best way to go…lasts a lot longer
Excellent. Specific and to the point which is so helpful.
We just measure where the furring strips are and clamp like 10 sheets together at a time and just pre drill the holes through the sheets to get a straight screw line and easier starting the screw..just make sure to use a smaller or close to same size bit as the screws
One video said nail punch is better than drilling holes.
@@learnjcbskidsterchickensga7594 yep, I've been doing that from now on
An easy way to keep the screws in a nice line is to use one of the spring retractors commonly used for keys, security cards, etc and use a magnetic hook on each end. The magnets commonly have a hole in the middle that sits over the previous panels last screw and put the other on the metal center of 2x or a chalkline.
Great idea!
Bit old post but just a few considerations, install insulation in the lathes gap and always use butyl tape under the screw lines, plus butyl mastic under the overlaps, your panels should never leak and can still expand etc.
Youre installing barn metal on residential roof? Everything ive read says to install standing seam with covered screw heads.
Standing seam is a great roof. If you can afford it, it's definitely an upgrade.
I am a roofing contractor where there is snow and Ice build up. I have lost count how many rotten facia boards and bottom of the roof deck I have replaced when Lazy contractors just strapped a old asphalt roof and didn't think about ice build up or condensation forming under the metal. I always recommend tearing the roof and installing a proper high temp underlayment.
Plus you don't have to worry about water overshooting the gutters.
Hello Shawn. How about if I tear the old roof off down to the deck, lay down 30# felt, and then install the panels flat on the felt? I didn't put straps down... Do you strap it even if you tear the old roof off? I ordered synthetic felt with my material, but the order got messed up and I didn't receive the synthetic felt, so I bought 30# locally.
Great video.. 71 yo so I won't be doing the work myself.... BUT... my intention on watching this video to see how it is done properly and learn the "lingo"..si that i will know just how good a job the folks I hire are doing.
O boy watch a video and become a pro? Lol
Wish I could hire you. Professional!
Great content. I am currently building my first home with metal roofs. Great information and guidance. Thank you.
Hi, how did your roof install go, did you run into any problems? I have yet to install. I'm still repairing the deck.
Great video series. Now seeing it after it's been up 11 years now.
I'm in the Caribbean. We use metal roofing on nearly every house here.
However we don't use the screws in the valley of the sheeting. The reason is the rubbers on the screws are never installed perfectly, and being rubber under high temperature daily, they disintegrate, so we use the screws on the top of the ridge.
Trust me a metal roof is the best. However when I lived in Florida, it seems they use obnoxious rules in building codes to prevent you. For example they said my house needed a 2:12 pitch at least.
Why you ask? It's all about what drives the economy. Roofing repairs are big business. A metal roof could probably last you 50 years, while you're changing shingles, and asphalt "roll roofing" ever 12 years or so...15 if you're lucky.
Last panel you didn't show,just what I needed.
would be nice if you had a ridge cap video as well! i just put the panels down thanks to your vid, and now waiting on the ridge cap to get here.
Just posted a ridge cap video. Check it out!
No, many of these panels don't have a flat area on the top of the rib. They are rounded, and a screw will not seal on these crowns. The manufacturer tells you too screw on the lower flat area. I've installed a few of these. They don't leak if you install them as shown in the video.
Okay, you yanks are clearly using a cheaper inferior product. Who is the manufacturer and what is the product name?
I reckon the metal on this product is thinner than used in Australia and the profile is also inferior - probably cheaper to manufacture a sheet with a rounder ridge top than to put 2 folds in the metal to create a flat ridge top.
Tony Stark It all depends on what gage metal you want to buy. Obviously the thicker the more expensive. I pwrsonally would not wven use this type of metal for my house as there is much better out there. Standing seam is the way i would go. It is very thick and there is no screws exposed whatsoever. It makes for a very clean look that lasts forever.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts and intelligence on how too...
Didn't realize there are multiple parts of videos.
My apologies for thinking a head.
I've pre-measured and pre-drilled the holes on the ground. Stack 5 or 6 sheets and pre drill them. Easy peezy. Worked like a charm. But I'm just here looking for pointers.
Never ever put screws in the valleys. Always on the ridges. If u put them in the vally you will always have problems over the years..trust me I have a 100 yr old roof
All because they work some place doesn't make them an expert. I'm just saying what I know after owning a 100+ year old home with a tin roof for 30 years. I've had a roofer 30 year vet do my roof when I was sick and I'm still dealing with screws in the valleys. Once you put that whole in the vally it will always be there no matter how you cover it. Tar & fiber seal is only a band aid
off2f it’s an ongoing argument and honestly it doesn’t make a difference. The screw is holding out water no matter where it’s installed, and if it’s not then it needs to be replaced regardless of where it was put in
Think what you want. I'm going by what I have learned on my +100 year old house and I've never had any problems until i got sick and had to get a roofer to work on my +100 year old roof and he put screws in the valleys and ice dams habe caused problems all the time, you can say I'm wrong all you want but I lived in this house for over 30 years and always took care of it myself and never had an issue until i got sick and had to get some dum half wit roofer to coolseal it and he thought it need screws in all the valleys where there was never a nail let alone a screw
off2f I’ve installed numerous metal roofs (that don’t leak) with every screw in the valley, your roofer did something wrong if it leaks after putting screws in the valleys. And it wasn’t putting the screws there that caused the leak
Great video with lots of practical advice.
Thirdly, a lot of information in the US talks about replacing the rubber washers about every 15 years. This is something that never has to be done in Aus. I think this idea of screwing through the flat comes from an installation point of view, it is much easier to screw through the flat and you don't have to worry about over tightening the screws and getting the sheets out of square, so less skilled labor can be used. The problem is you are relying to heavily on the washers to seal the roof.
I know nothing about putting on a metal roof, but with the snow and Ice here in mid Illinois I would think that the screws should go on the ridge, this will at least keep the melting snow or ice water away from the screws quicker.
Hard to get the compression the washers need on a rib...35yrs exp.
@@stevewilson2158 Thanks for this comment. I'll be installing a metal roof for the first time in the next week or so. The place where I'm buying the panels says to put the screws on the rib/ridge, while this video and others says put them in the flat area. Where have you installed? I'm in Houston.
@@JakeBor washington state
@@JakeBor if you do install them on a rib use 2 in screws
"It's easy to get off as you're screwing"
Completely agree! Great video though, thanks
This is a good video. Thank you for sharing.
An excellent video with clear concise explanations. I am using metal panels to repair a barn door. Thanks
Just been watching my neighbor two doors up from us having the second asphalt shingle roof installation in about the last 12 years. Our metal roof has been in place since 1999. It's still got a few years left on the paint warranty. Meridian panels by McElroy that cost us about $3,500 in materials for a 17 plus square roof. That's about half the cost of the crappy asphalt shingles the neighbor is going having installed for materials. It makes no sense to me why anyone favors buying new roofs every 15 to 20 years at increasingly expensive prices based on oil when metal roofs can last lifetimes. Our energy savings in the summer have paid for the metal roof at least once already.
Because metal looks like shit. We aren't all backwater country folks that have no problem living in barns. I'll gladly pay for beauty.
"those crappy asphalt shingles" last roughly 30-50 years when they are dimensional. I have a feeling you're "that" neighbor 🙄
@@TingTingalingy Not in Florida plus Florida now allows insurance companies to refuse to cover a roof that is over 15 years old.
@@mustangecoboosthpp3869 eh, I'd have to see the actual house bill to buy that story.
@@TingTingalingy Google it this was all passed in the last year and a half.
great video! please tell a beginner if the short or long vertical edge goes on top or bottom.I'm sure it matters and have been told 2 different ways.
Well then if I am so wrong why does Lysaght the main supplier of metal roofing in Australia specifically say in their installation manual "Crest fixing for roof or walls; Valley fixing for walls only". Second to that why is every metal roof in Aus screwed through the ridge and we have no problems with leaking or movement even in extreme wind.
Excellent video. Do you have any info on using the f gable trim that goes under the metal panel and how they are tabbed and lapped to flow water properly. Any information you could provide would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not exactly sure what you're asking but I have videos that cover all aspects of metal roofing. You should check out the ones on drip edge.
Very good demonstration Thx
Take the time to predrill screw holes on ground while in a stack will save you alot of work on the roof and even less pucker at screws
Absolutely
I will try that...thanks!
@@Stahodad your welcome will really save alot of time and pain on the roof
Excellent video Dude ! I learnt some great tips ! Thankyou ❤😉🙃😎 NZ
Where I come from they often use currogated metal sheets, and common practice is to put screws through the crests (the ridge) rather than the valley part as water running into the valleys with screws makes the roof more leak prone. Is this not a concern for sheets with an angular profile and larger distance betwen ridges like in the video?
I have done enough of these to do it wrong. As far as screwing the flats are best I've done it both ways and the ridges will leak. There is just too much movement in the tin with temp differents. After a couple years the screws on the ridge will leak. Flats minimize movement
To keep warranty valid, metal roofs (28GA) from American Building Components specify screws on the flat. Even though the top of the ridge is nearly flat.
Lol, "if the house isnt square" is the understated quote of the year in South Carolina shesh... You bring a level you'll be there all day trying to fix stupid lol
I remember many years ago as a young Iron Worker apprentice from time to time i'd get sent to work on Butler type metal buildings,what a royal pain in the ass,insulation different type screws. I remember the roofs caulking,insulation seam screws,drills i could care less if i never seen another one! But i remember the roof seam screws especially,was very easy to strip them and probably leaked at some point!
Helpful information and insights. Thank you!
A common question. There are a few reasons why we don't put the screws in the top of the rib. This type of panel in not designed for that application. The top of the rib is rounded and does not provide a flat, secure place for the screw's washer to seat and seal well. Also, putting the screws there causes the panel to 'fishmouth' slightly at the bottom, causing unsightly gaps where the panel meets the drip edge trim.
Hi guys, I place my screws on top rounded ridge and push them in so the metal just wants to start to bend, I am going to a farm tommorrow to fix a roof leaking all over by its screws. i already looked and priced it. Some of the neoprene pushed down to far as you said and decayed quickly. Others are screw pops. I like to penetrate any wood on a roof nail or screw. where i live from frost pops. I am in Ontario north a bit and i see lots of screws mostly nails pop. thx for some tips. we all can learn from each other. i also place to pieces of metal in the middle of the roof where im going to start. have two guys go to each end of the roof. Line it one ich from drip edge. and p[lace metal squared to both ends knoiwing even how much overhang i need in the farest point from facia. I feel 100 percent confident by doing it right. If i want pieces to start in a certain place chalk line above fadding the two distances from each end in the measurement. perfect.I hardly ever staircase metal unless roof is actually dipping here and there badly. But overall i appreciate your video.
RoofingIntelligence.com please can you tell me how many inches have the nail you use for put the wood on the shingle and tell me please what kind of bolt you use for nail the metal roof. Thank you.
RoofingIntelligence.com How do you measure the width of a roof,so panels can fit right and the amount will be purchased rightly instead of being short or over purchased. Thanks
RoofingIntelligence.com I'm new to this technology which is slowly phasing out tar roll roofing.
BULLSHIT. I bet you have call backs when the screws leak ))))
15:17 By a simple rip, you leave a loophole that can leak ie with rake on to come over and with butyl tape seal off, eventually there will come a time when the butyl tape will leak or other imperfection, rain can (in bad storm with sideways /diagonal rain) be forced under the rake and go to the edge, leach around the edge and destroy your wood decking on the roof edge); its better to leave 1" extra over the edge , bend it back on top of itself to where its below 1/2 " high, so you have an extra rib manually made just where you need it on the edge underneath the rake, giving you double protection for only a quick bend back over time & effort.
What is the best way to plug or repair screw holes? I have several salvaged panels I’m going to make a 12’ X 15’ storage shelter for my tractor and I’m going to have lots of extra little screw holes. Thanks. Great video.
I had used metal for my barn.instead of filling the old holes I used them by trimming the panels to match the strapping underneath.or you could install the strapping to match the holes.mine was a reroof job so I cut panels to match the holes.I guess you might waste too much roofing but I had lots of length.another method you could use is to sheath the roof with OSB or plywood and use all the holes.in lieu of that you would use a quality silicone sealer and fill the holes
I have a question about the bottom of the vent cap or pipe cap. There is no screws that do into the corners of the horseshoe cut roof piece that covers the top of the pipe vent,cover? At about minute 14:25 to 15 when your start talking about the install of the last roof piece. It shows the horse shoe cut in the roof panel with no screws to anchor it? Is that meant to be left unscrewed or screwed and you just didnt address it in this video? thanks informative
Great question: NO, don't put screws there. I see why you would want to but this area is vulnerable to water getting in under the that top panel and then leaking in the screw holes underneath the panel.
The only way to get 1st panel square is using the 3-4-5 & square to the eve straight line. I measure & start in the middle. I also predrill & use 2x4 strapping.
Make a video roofing bangalow style pls or umbrella roofing style how to cut etc
15:30 put screws on top of the ridges, pre-drill exactly on top for screws to be exactly on top of the triangle ridge minimizing leaks in the valleys where every raindrop can leak at a bad washer screw point , remem: all washers eventually crack and leak). so on top means only a direct hit from a raindrop even has a chance to leaks, paint the washers after install to minimize sun drying out, re-chk ev yr , retighten re-paint as needed.
Why is it installed on shingles?
House has a flat roof. No attic or crawl space for duct work and therefore the house is crazy stupid hot especially in summer here in FL. I would like to know the basics on what options are to get some lift on the roof. If not for creating a crawl space; to atleast give lift or create additional distance between the old & the new roof. Which the new roof preference is metal.
In FL, condensation will kill those panels and the untreated wood under them.
Hi, Ive just done my conservatory roof using the 100mm (4") insulated steel sheets and really it was so easy and its so strong i have a span of 2.7m (9') with only end support and i can walk on it
How far apart do you put the 2x4s? Great video by the way. Really good stuff you have here.
+Chris Manno Most of the videos I've seen on this use 1x4s and space them 2 feet on center. What I've also seen (and seems like a good idea) is to use 3/4 inch thick foam board insulation (Mylar backed) in between the strips. A 1x4 is actually 3/4 x 3 1/2 in size. It acts as support for the metal panels when you need to step on them so the screws don't elongate the holes, fills the void so strong winds can't lift the panels from underneath and adds insulation.
1x4 is ok for a shed or lean to depending on slope.if it steeper then 1x4 is ok .on a low slope I would use 2x4.and on a house the optimum would be 2x4
Sir, how about, for like snow. At bottom of for like over door ways, walking areas.
Also grounding for lighting storms. Feelings on that.
They sell snow guards or breaks that are usually staggered in 2 rows that screw on top of your panels roughly 2 feet apart. I almost learned about them the hard way when approx. 12 inches of snow on top of 16 foot high building all came of at once just missing a customer! Building was 30 feet to peak x 12 inches snow x 3 foot wide door is 90 cubic foot. On average that would be like 900 lbs hitting you from 16 foot high. The next day we were installing snow breaks across entire building
In 50 years our company has never had much luck putting the screws in the low spots. You are relying on the rubber washers to be your roof instead of the the metal and it's shape. That negates 30-40% of the advantage of the metal roof. We have a couple of roofs 60+ years now and still going strong after paint jobs and inspection (we did these in the days when there were juts nails and no screw washers and there was just galvanized). The other roofs with the screws in the low spots have seen trouble over the years. If the roof is not pitched enough they leak like a spigot. If an ice dam occurs they leak like a spigot. If you put them on you high spots to are assured a minimal ice dam resistance the height of the corrugated. If you put them in the low spots you do not have this grace/advantage from the metal roof itself. Worse, Screws in low spots get in the way of serviceability and leak when you have to go on the roof 10 years later when you have to go up and do repairs. You cannot put you knee or brace boards to distribute weight in the low spots without causing the screws to leak and damage,
I also strongly recommend always setting the metal on a full flat surface and the solid roof and not to use runners. Always strip the asphalt roof! Not only is it stronger and better mounted, but it is hurricane and high wind resistant,to the air lift underneath more immune to bending under heavy snow loads and impact (tree limbs ice etc etc) ...and more importantly strong enough to be Easily SERVICEABLE when you have to got on the roof at various times in it's life because you can actually put full weight on the flat spots.without opening joints or bending the roof.
*****
I've never had any steel dimple or dent on the ridges when screws were put through. Aluminum is easier for that to happen. That said...yes you have to be careful and practice when torquing these or it can bow up the flats.
This entire debate over where to put the screws is attributed to the thinner, higher strength materials which effects the installation process/time and skill to install etc.Putting in the flats also allows the metal roofs to be put onto runners with much fewer fasten points, which again is cost of installation instead of having a shingle less solid surface underneath.
Can't see how your job came out but as it is a steep roof and shed...and a practice run for you? I would not worry too much. If it is really bugging you how it came out...Might be nice to do one side one way and one another if you want the experience and would be nice to see the comparison results in 10-15 if we are all still around...
+Harry Brown I doubt you will have any issues with the screws installed in the ridges. I did an entire roof this way and there were only 2 downsides that I could find about doing it this way. 1. I found it somewhat difficult to get enough pressure to start the screws in the ridges and sometimes I had the screws slip when trying to initially penetrate. This could be due to how hard the panels were, not sure. 2. I found myself getting pretty far out of square with this method. I was attaching the panels from the top and I didn't realize that I was tightening the upper screws too much when I was putting the panel in place. The grommets around the screws were not indicative of them being too tight, what was happening instead was the pressure on the ridges was bringing up the flat portions of the panel. It was very little per panel, but after a few panels it started to get pretty noticeable. I was able to rectify some of this by over tightening the lower screws later, but I think it could have been avoided had I put the screws in the valleys.
It seems that way, eddie, but in real practice that is untrue. All my buildings have the fasteners in the flats and even after 20 years not a single leak. But the main reason the ribs is a bad choice is they provide very little fastening strength and virtually no triangular strength to the building.
+voluntown - Installing the fasteners in the ribs means all fasteners are loose, and after 40 years many buildings have moved extensively and have weakened especially in the wind. With good fasteners, installed in the flats with the correct torque, you will get 40 years easily. Replacing the fasteners after around 30 years is also quite common. If you want strength without maintenance, go with hidden fastener steel roofing choices.
eddie telleed how installing gutters
How about going around the existing pipes coming through the roof?
Definitely the service line poles you can’t access coming over the tops?
I've got another video on pipe flashings.
They make a split/retrofit boot especially for power masts.
11:00 "it's easy to get off when you're screwing" hit me right in the chuckle wagon. Lmao
Very informative, THANK YOU ! !
I took shingles off put down peel and stick underlayment, chalked lined my trusses to screw 2x4 wood strips to and put 1 1/2 Styrofoam insulation in between strips. I did the same screw lines as you for top and bottom but through the highrib everywhere else. Now I want to use self etching primer and cool coat silicone roof paint. Any suggestions on self etching primer on corrugated galvalume?
Great detailed video!
I still like screwing on the ribs, those 2-3 cent washers will not last forever, and will leak more in the low part vs. the rib. I predrill the panels on the ground with a sharp bit.
I got a little confused about the location of the last panel you installed; did you put the "panel you ripped to size "underneath the previous panel? or over the previous panel; I,m referring to the edge that was cut with the factory edge facing toward the end of the roof; the cut edge "OVER OR UNDER the PREVIOUS PANEL?? GOING LEFT TO RIGHT; VERY GOOD VIDEO LEARNING AS I GO; THANK YOU,PATRICK.P
very well explained, thank you very much looking forward to more of your videos.
Wow. I dont use the wood underneath I just nailed it all down Then I siliconed all the panels together and over the nails. I left about 8 inches overhang to save on buying the metal edge parts.
Just wonderful. So helpful. Thanks!
Do you have to build a box around your vent pipes underneath the metal so the screws will catch I'm doing a metal roof over a tin roof on a single wide I did the firing strips and insulation in between the furring strips I have another vent pipe so if I need to do it then I need to do that one right
I also see that you installed the screws they go in the ridge part of the metal not in valley think about it water dt run up hill an the rubber on screw will last long an not leak...
I'm glad someone else spoke up. Hell I sure thought that putting the screw in the valley makes no sense at all. That's where the water is going to be. While panels are on the ground you can stack them and go every 2 foot or so, but remember to designate one side or the other and do not drill screw holes, because when you run the panels there will be holes in the over lapping area. By doing it this way you can just reach across the panels,drop screw in pre drilled holes and you don't have to walk across your panels . The screws will be perfectly in line with the other ones. Good luck
Awesome video! Could you install metal roofing over battens that are attached to roofing rafters (no osb decking) if closed cell spray foam was applied underneath?
Excellent. Very useful and thoughtful. Thanks for the edification.
I am replacing the existing flat roof over my two car garage because of water damage to the top as well as the plywood sheathing underneath.
Q1: Can I install this metal roof panel over the joist or do I need to install new plywood sheathing over the joist and then the metal roof on top of the plywood?
Q2: If I install the metal roof over the plywood, do I need to install anything on top of the plywood before installing the metal panel?
Q3: Do I need to caulk or seal the top of the fastening screws to prevent any potential water leak?
What do you call the profile on that roof sheet? It looks like trimdeck. On trimdeck the top of the rib is basically flat and in Australia you always screw into the top of the rib because any rain will runoff into the wide flat valley almost immediately. From the comments it sounds like the top of the rib on this profile is rounded which isn't obvious in the video. In Australia a corrugated profile is mostly used and again is screwed on the top of the rib which with corrugation is rounded. A corrugated profile is used on steeper pitched roofs (more than 20 degree pitch). Trimdeck is used on flat roof pitches (5 -20 degree pitch). A pitch of less than 5 degrees requires clipdeck with no screwing - clips are mounted on the roof frame and the sheet is pushed onto the clips to be held.
I would not screw into the flat as this is where all the water is diverted too and any problem with the rubber seal will mean a greater quantity of water penetrating the roof sheet. At least on top of the rib a fault with the seal will only permit minimal water entry as the sheet profile quickly diverts water off the rib to the valley/flat.
Confirmed by watching another American video. This American roof sheet is cheap junk by Australian standards. Initially it appears to be a trimdeck profile but a closer look shows the top of the ridge is rounded and the ridge height looks to be around 25mm whereas trimdeck is around 39mm from memory. Also based on the amount of flex in this product when being handled it appears the metal is much thinner than used in Australia.
My conclusion is they screw in the flats to compensate for the poor quality of the product they are using.
You have to put boards down first? You can't screw them to the shingles?
Thanks so much for these videos. I don't know when I'm going to get around to using the info., but at least I've got it now!
Are you suppposed to dent the panel when you put the screws in?
One thing I don't understand why is the skinny side on top of the fat side ? In my opinion, if there is heavy rain with strong wind it will much quicker leak . If the fat side is overlapping the wind can never drive the water all the way up ? I must say the bit that I done was with the fat side on top . And never a drop of water on the underneath side . Ireland
The panels are made to fit together with the skinny side on top. They are manufactured so that water will not capillary up and over the rib if they are installed correctly. Also, I've seen several instances where debris/leaves get trapped under the fat lip and which then caused leaks.
Do you happen to have a video on end lapping panels together (overlapping lengthwise)?
I did Channel Drain, then later I learned standing seam...I agree...no fasteners in flats.
Why not put the screws on the ridge itself? No chance of water leaking in at all vs the on the flat part panel.
i just installed a metal roof on a shed. i didn't put the fat end down first, the shed is just for firewood so nothing important to worry about. can you explain why the fat end goes down first? thanks - dana
Thank you SO MUCH!!! for the DETAIL of the screw placement, and details like taking the time to wipe the chalk line chalk down after. You showed to put the screws on the flat of the sheet. Not the hip (rib) I can't tell you how many roofs I seen (and done!!!) where the screws are on the rib. The bottom screw will be on the flat, but rest will be on the rib.
Again Thank you
How air will circulate under metal sheets? I would suggest to install vertical strips and on top horizontal strips, so air would circulate . Just closed horizontal strips will rot in couple of years.
The high ridges of the sheet allow air to pass over the wood strips.
30 years ago I left the SE US, moved to Pacific NW and now I am back in Florida. I am shocked to see roofers using metal screws on the flat and not on the ridges. I've taken down a several metal roofs. I always find leakage, as much as 50% of the screws leaking on a 20year old roof. I've found many more leaks with screws "on the flat" than with "nails on the ridge". INVARIABLY, the as the wood ages, the wood no longer holds the screws tight and leaks develop. It seems the "best practice goal" is no exposed fasteners. Can you discuss these issues?
Screws are good for around 10 years and should be replaced. Regardless of location. Wind, sun, cold…
@momento6704 put them in the rib and you can get 20 years out of them. I've replaced 50 year old roofs where the screw rubber is completely deteriorated but still didn't leak
Great video! Are there 4 other parts available to this? What size wood do you recommend for strapping?
Looks like they have standard 2 x 4s here, in the video. I just helped a guy the other day and he used 1 x 6s.