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Your welcome! We didn’t break these ourselves. They were made by the metal shop we got our metal and trim from.

Your welcome! We didn’t break these ourselves. They were made by the metal shop we got our metal and trim from.

That’s definitely the way to go, I’m not sure why we didn’t do it back then.

But I’ve seen a 25 year old roof done with out it. And it was just fine. 1x4’s were still solid.

I agree in part. But, it’s a cheaper and faster. That’s probably why a lot of home owners go with is. Also it’s a Barndominium so it sort of is supposed to look like a shop/barn.

Well let me give you some good reasons why you should put wood down. And I’d recommend underlayment over shingles as well. You see, if you put it on only shingles you have plywood or Osb under that which only gives the screws a little bit to hold on to. And they will back out sooner and leak. Especially with older wood. So putting down 1x4’s and using 2” screws or 2 1/2” screws through the metal gives it more of something to hold on to. And also gives the roof an air gap with the 1x4’s so it can breathe. A lot of people say it will rot away, but I’ve seen a 25 year old roof that was being replaced because of tree damage. No underlayment, just 1x4’s and metal on top of shingles. And the 1x4’s were still solid! Now it also helps to trim it out properly. We usually take old drip edge off all the way around on a roof over. And install new trim. A lot of times though you have to get bigger drip edge so as to cover all the layers properly.

Metal Board and batten 10”

Northwestern Michigan, This home is actually on Airbnb now, In a small town called brethren Michigan.

@@plankroofing OK, similar vegitation, cool, water, and an occasional Moose.

Actually it has a lot of grip if it’s new and clean, and depending what kind of shoes you have. Preferably something with a softer sole. No, it is actually very strong with the ribs the way it is roll formed, it will span 2 feet no problem. Now if you step on the rib in-between the purlins it can buckle. It usually takes quite a bit of force or weight to make it crease or dimple by just walking on it.

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I don’t like the rivet system, but this is what we had to work with on this project. all the rivets in this roof are hanging over roof via the Z- bar trim. So if they leak it shouldn’t be a problem.

Yeah this particular standing seam, the cut-outs for the screws are a bit large.

8/12 and we use mostly Merrell hiking shoes, the mid ankle high ones. They stick to metal real good!

@@samvarios610 we just called it standing seam rake. This is about the only company I know of that makes them this way. Royal oak metal sales in Michigan. But there are some metal suppliers who will make something like this custom.

They will want to strip out easily. We’d recommend putting 2x4’s or 1x4’s purlins on top of your plywood, nailing it into the rafters. Then put an underlayment of some kind over those, And screw your metal to the 2x4’s

Just use the big fat screws not the skinny ones and they won’t move.

You’ll need to find a metal roofing manufacturer that will make custom trims. And have them make you a sidewall and endwall flashing with a 5/8” bend on the top. Also a chimney pan with a bend on the top edge. If you can’t find one that will do that you can make the bends yourself with some long hemming tools or a metal break if you have one.

Yes you can overlap them, 6” to 12” Run a stretch of sheets along the drip edge first. And then the top pieces completing the roof up to the ridge, and cut them to the proper length obviously. Check out my video on how to run it straight with the drip edge.

If there is two layers of shingles or more I’d recommend taking them off. If nothing else for the weight purpose. Especially on old roofs, or manufactured homes. Also if you live anywhere where you get a significant amount of snow, you’d want to consider that as well. Because that will add a lot of weight to your roof if it’s shingles. With metal a lot of it usually slides off. Then, Check to see what all is on your roof. And go from there.

And where do I put it

Yes, get the highest quality you can find. Some people use a foil-faced reflective bubble wrap on re-roofs like this as well.

Your welcome!

I would definitely recommend removing the shingles. That is best, but not a requirement in all places. And yes, use the highest quality water barrier ( underlayment first. And then I would do 2x4’s purlins every 2-4 feet making sure to nail them into the rafters. with foam board in between those. And then your radiant heat barrier. And then the metal roofing. 2x4’s on 2 ft centers is generally ok but if you put 1 1/2” foam board in between you can span further because you have a rigid foam providing a stabilizer under the metal. Other wide spanning more than 2’ is too far and you risk buckling the metal in between the purlins.

Yes, we’ve done a lot of that. Probably 50-50 when we worked in Michigan

Depends on how you do it and how you maintain it. People do it successfully either way, But you get more sheer strength and up-lift resistance screwing in the flat. Also The screws will back out more and sometimes even break off if you screw on the ribs. Also never screw into plywood or OSB, solid wood like 2x4’s or 2x6’s are best for metal roofing.

@@plankroofing the last thing I want to do is maintain my metal roof. That's why I go with standing seam. 50 years no leaky. If you have to replace low spot gaskets every 5 years you may as well go with heat generating tar based comp. Darker the better. Let's heat this place up because I want to grow avocados in Oregon. We're paying $1.59 for an average avo here. It's an outrage. Dam cartels and I guess Biden.

It’s dirty because the metal wasn’t overhung far enough so the water can seep back and down the drip edge making it dirty. If they had done a 1 1/2” over hang with the metal it would be nice and clean.

@@plankroofing I get it, it’s the same on my house. The metal on the main house structure has an inch and a half overhang and the drip edge stays clean. Where there are gutters attached, there is about a quarter inch overhang and when pollen sits on the roof in the spring, it leaves lines going toward the gutters. It isn’t damage though, just looks dirty until a fresh rain…

They can be regular 1x4 But preferably harder pine like yellow pine or fir.

Yes! It can be a cheap alternative to replace your entire roof, and can extend the life of a roof, I would always use new screws though and get the bigger shanked screws. Usually those have a bigger head on them as well Like 5/16” or 3/8”. Especially if it’s only screwed into plywood Which is a common mistake people make.

Do NOT use silicone because it is a one-way trip. I like Through The Roof sealant.