Thank you for getting right to pertinent information and not telling a big grandiose tale beforehand as so many do.Wish I had found your post 2weeks ago!So appreciate you,keep it up
Thank you this video was a great help, and proved my suspicions, made it the last 20 miles from home stopping every 5 miles, the issue was less severe if things cooled off a little
Thanks for this! The condenser tests fine on the bench. When it’s in the magneto frame, it won’t charge on DC Ohms: goes up a few tenths, drops to 0, goes up again. The magneto was out of the bike for this. What to check next?
Thanks for the straight up description. Question: if a condenser is bad (but everything is okay, points, spark plug, etc.), can this be the reason for a moped for not being able to start up? Will be receiving a Peugeot 103 soon which the seller says doesn't start up.
Hey, thanks for the video. when I put power (ohms test) to it, it climbs then goes OL and then the voltage drops and it starts climbing again (keeps cycling) Is this normal?
I dealt with anything except bikes, now I have an old (!) special case single cyl engine with bike type ignition, a Bosch double coil thing in same style as yours there. Cant get a new breaker for it , they dont exist anymore. I thought putting in a complete stator or highwatt coil CDI system with trigger should be a short story but I cant find anyone specifying their replacement part geometrics. They just keep on listing bike model compatibilities. My coil (/stator) base plate outer diameter is 110mm, has 3 slider screw holes for timing degree adjustment (topsides and one in bottom). Looks very much the same just like yours. My magnet flywheel inner diameter is 100mm -ish, my coils measures for 98mm outer diameter. Do you know what bike/ATV/industrial engine model´s parts that may fit well for the measures given for this grand papi ?
Testing the ones on my evinrude 4hp outboard, Doesn’t really do much with oms, Doesn’t climb but sometimes shoots out a random high number BUT It does start high then slowly drops to 0 in DV VOLTS, Are these good? 😂👍
The timing is dead on. Lol I used a 14mm x 1.25 tap and a Caliper to set the 1.5 mm befor TDC. After watching your video, the condenser isn't taking a charge. It's showing nothing. Many thanks for your informative video.
Fuckin' A. Thank you. So clearly explained in 2 freakin minutes relative to the hundreds over overcomplicated videos on this. I can't believe I can test this directly on my bike. What happens on the multi-meter if I have a bad one? Do the ohms and dc readings have to reach a certain number? Are higher rpm kits more likely to fry a 45 year old condenser? There's folks out there who say that the bosch condensers almost never fail. What's the best replacement condenser? And finally, if my points are still arcing and sparking with a known good condenser, does that mean the points themselves are bad, or that my timing is off?
lol, I forgot to add that. If the condenser is bad it wont take a charge or discharge. So the meter would not move. It would just stay at 0 or overload.
my condenser is able to charge and hold a charge off the bike, but will not charge on the bike even though I have the points separated by a wad of duct tape. What is this telling me?
Either your electric tape is no good or more likely the wire is shorted to the case. The metal can must be "grounded" and the wire must be insulated. Some versions do this by having a screw pass through the distributor body in a plastic or rubber grommet others do this by having the wire itself or a block of plastic under into a slot. Either way if it shorts to ground it's a bad thing.
According to yourself, setting the multimeter to ohms, then placing the probes on the condenser, puts a charge into it ?? why not use the battery for this, and then observe the wasting of the charge on the meter set to volts.
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Excellent. Clear explanation, no waffle, no ego prompt. Learnt more in 2 minutes than most other vids on the subject.
Thanks!
Thank you for getting right to pertinent information and not telling a big grandiose tale beforehand as so many do.Wish I had found your post 2weeks ago!So appreciate you,keep it up
Great video. No non-sense and yapping around. Just straight to the point and well explained. Thanks. :)
Thank you! Have a great day!
Fantastic explanation. Thank you!
Thanks for watching
Hi from the UK . Thanks for the clear explanation. Cheers
Then you!
Thanks for the tips going to get the multimeter out now and test my reliant Rialto!
thanks for watching
Thank you this video was a great help, and proved my suspicions, made it the last 20 miles from home stopping every 5 miles, the issue was less severe if things cooled off a little
Brilliant! Thank you 🙏 👍
Thanks for watching!
Perfect, to the point. Thanks bud!
Thanks for watching
Thanks! You just saved me $15.00 and got a new subscriber....
Awesome! Thanks!
Thanks for the video , my points are arcing but I have no spark at the coils , I have tested my coils and even tried new ones , any ideas welcome
Thanks for this!
The condenser tests fine on the bench. When it’s in the magneto frame, it won’t charge on DC Ohms: goes up a few tenths, drops to 0, goes up again. The magneto was out of the bike for this. What to check next?
Thanks for the straight up description. Question: if a condenser is bad (but everything is okay, points, spark plug, etc.), can this be the reason for a moped for not being able to start up? Will be receiving a Peugeot 103 soon which the seller says doesn't start up.
Yes it could. But I bet the engine would pop and try to start. I think it's another issue.
Do you know of a video where I could watch someone installing a screw condenser trying to replace mine
Hey, thanks for the video. when I put power (ohms test) to it, it climbs then goes OL and then the voltage drops and it starts climbing again (keeps cycling) Is this normal?
Great vid but how do you test the points and coils?
Thats coming! but its pretty easy. you just use the Ohms measurement and test to make sure the coils are not shorted out.
I dealt with anything except bikes, now I have an old (!) special case single cyl engine with bike type ignition, a Bosch double coil thing in same style as yours there. Cant get a new breaker for it , they dont exist anymore. I thought putting in a complete stator or highwatt coil CDI system with trigger should be a short story but I cant find anyone specifying their replacement part geometrics. They just keep on listing bike model compatibilities.
My coil (/stator) base plate outer diameter is 110mm, has 3 slider screw holes for timing degree adjustment (topsides and one in bottom). Looks very much the same just like yours. My magnet flywheel inner diameter is 100mm -ish, my coils measures for 98mm outer diameter.
Do you know what bike/ATV/industrial engine model´s parts that may fit well for the measures given for this grand papi ?
...and by the way, how do I losen that plate integrated condenser for a replacement ?
Just because the machine is running, doesn’t mean the condenser is good. Once you replace a bad condenser, it will run smoothly
ayee i wish i had this a week ago lol
Thanks.
You're welcome
Testing the ones on my evinrude 4hp outboard,
Doesn’t really do much with oms,
Doesn’t climb but sometimes shoots out a random high number BUT
It does start high then slowly drops to 0 in DV VOLTS,
Are these good? 😂👍
If the condenser is bad would it the moped sound like it's missing and stop running, fuel foul the plug.
yeah totally. That could also be messed up timing.
The timing is dead on. Lol I used a 14mm x 1.25 tap and a Caliper to set the 1.5 mm befor TDC. After watching your video, the condenser isn't taking a charge. It's showing nothing. Many thanks for your informative video.
@@charlesrknottsjr yeah! try a new condenser and see if that fixes things!
Fuckin' A. Thank you. So clearly explained in 2 freakin minutes relative to the hundreds over overcomplicated videos on this. I can't believe I can test this directly on my bike. What happens on the multi-meter if I have a bad one? Do the ohms and dc readings have to reach a certain number? Are higher rpm kits more likely to fry a 45 year old condenser? There's folks out there who say that the bosch condensers almost never fail. What's the best replacement condenser? And finally, if my points are still arcing and sparking with a known good condenser, does that mean the points themselves are bad, or that my timing is off?
lol, I forgot to add that. If the condenser is bad it wont take a charge or discharge. So the meter would not move. It would just stay at 0 or overload.
my condenser is able to charge and hold a charge off the bike, but will not charge on the bike even though I have the points separated by a wad of duct tape. What is this telling me?
Either your electric tape is no good or more likely the wire is shorted to the case. The metal can must be "grounded" and the wire must be insulated. Some versions do this by having a screw pass through the distributor body in a plastic or rubber grommet others do this by having the wire itself or a block of plastic under into a slot. Either way if it shorts to ground it's a bad thing.
Mine just reads 6.8 ohms
I tested 12 condensers, this includes 4 new, they all give nothing at all on the multimeter, i don't get it. Also tried 2 multimeter.
U need good multimeter fluke
According to yourself, setting the multimeter to ohms, then placing the probes on the condenser, puts a charge into it ?? why not use the battery for this, and then observe the wasting of the charge on the meter set to volts.
You sure it’s suppose to jump down to OL before climbing up and then going into overload ? That doesn’t make sense to me. But what the fuck do I know.
Hi. Mine just drops to 00.6 ohms. Is it just the capacitor that’s bad or is it best to replace the whole generator?