gotta watch that white primer though. The difference is the red is for rusty metal and putted metal, the white is for clean shiny metal, and the grey is a saleable primer for pitted metal to block sand and get a smoother finish. I personally use the red first multiple coats sanding between coats and letting it harden overnight. Also you can put a little hardner in your primer after the first coat.Also my secret weapon Penatrol added to the paint really smooths out the paint.
I hate that damn paint I've had a cub cadet 127 a part for 3 years and we just got around to painting and we bought this shit it worked great for the first 2 days then it sagged my father took auto body in high school and was 2 in his class so when it went on it was flawless we are for the second time wet sanding
Cub cadet is a Federal yellow I have the original paint code with the 1962 Cub I bought a few years ago from the original owner the Cub came with the owner manual service manual and paint code.
I been sprayin the Red Majic and havin a horrible time with it..never had this much trouble getting a good finish..i"m getting little specks consistantly in the paint??..everything clean ..any thoughts?
I know this is old but ill put my 2 cents in. the little specks is from old grease or wd 40 something like that anyway. Even know you cleaned the suface 100 times ! it's still there. You need to add fish eye remover to your paint. A cap full is all you need. It's pricey stuff. like 30.00 bucks for a can of it but it will last you for years. Im still working off the same can i bought 5 years ago. Also on this paint job that the guy is doing on his cub looks good but he has the paint to thick. That gun should fog up the room when its spraying right. He could of painted ALL the parts in half the time it toke to paint the frame. Ask me how i know this stuff !! LOL Well hard lessons learned thats how. Hope this helps someone out there.
@@GetTwisted1981 that paint is thicker than regular paint,it doesn't do good if thined out too much.Oil based enamel is slow as shit to dry but very tough finish.
@@chooster5000 sorry really late reply lol..I've sprayed gallon of this stuff with no issues till this Red..I called Magic n Spoke to a engineer..thez Switches to a soy based paint..all my stuff is clean n filtered..sprayed this hood 6x same outcone.solvent Pop..the white or yellow no issues..just red..
Is paint spraying pretty easy? Iv been going back and forth to whether or not i want to spray paint it or air spray it, And what type of primer i should use
you paint the engine assembled? i would tear it down to its bare block. remove the coil, condenser, carburetor, blower housing, and paint everything separately .
The older Cubs engines were painted just like that and I do take the engine apart to make sure it's clean before I paint it , also don't have to worrie about putting the bolts all back in and messing up the paint
they really painted them like that. i did not know that. wouldnt you get paint on areas you dont want it. you dont really want paint the carb do you? i guess that's why i noticed some of the tractors i have worked on had paint on the carburator. i thought it was done sometime after it was produced but your saying it was done during production. interesting
Thays the problem im having now! This majoc primer is not a great base for this school bus yellow!! Ughh
gotta watch that white primer though. The difference is the red is for rusty metal and putted metal, the white is for clean shiny metal, and the grey is a saleable primer for pitted metal to block sand and get a smoother finish. I personally use the red first multiple coats sanding between coats and letting it harden overnight. Also you can put a little hardner in your primer after the first coat.Also my secret weapon Penatrol added to the paint really smooths out the paint.
What ratio do you use for the harder to grey primer, as well as the Pentarol to the top coat(final coat)?
Does the school bus yellow Now in 2024 or 2023 the same color as what you used 8m years ago? Does the school bus yellow have a number as well?
Thanks
I hate that damn paint I've had a cub cadet 127 a part for 3 years and we just got around to painting and we bought this shit it worked great for the first 2 days then it sagged my father took auto body in high school and was 2 in his class so when it went on it was flawless we are for the second time wet sanding
Cub cadet is a Federal yellow I have the original paint code with the 1962 Cub I bought a few years ago from the original owner the Cub came with the owner manual service manual and paint code.
If they are out of reducer, which they always are at tractor Supply, what else can I use?
I been sprayin the Red Majic and havin a horrible time with it..never had this much trouble getting a good finish..i"m getting little specks consistantly in the paint??..everything clean ..any thoughts?
specks in the paint are you using a water separator , could be moisture or oil getting in the nozzle, drain your compressors every time you paint also
I know this is old but ill put my 2 cents in. the little specks is from old grease or wd 40 something like that anyway. Even know you cleaned the suface 100 times ! it's still there. You need to add fish eye remover to your paint. A cap full is all you need. It's pricey stuff. like 30.00 bucks for a can of it but it will last you for years. Im still working off the same can i bought 5 years ago. Also on this paint job that the guy is doing on his cub looks good but he has the paint to thick. That gun should fog up the room when its spraying right. He could of painted ALL the parts in half the time it toke to paint the frame. Ask me how i know this stuff !! LOL Well hard lessons learned thats how. Hope this helps someone out there.
@@GetTwisted1981 that paint is thicker than regular paint,it doesn't do good if thined out too much.Oil based enamel is slow as shit to dry but very tough finish.
@@chooster5000 sorry really late reply lol..I've sprayed gallon of this stuff with no issues till this Red..I called Magic n Spoke to a engineer..thez Switches to a soy based paint..all my stuff is clean n filtered..sprayed this hood 6x same outcone.solvent Pop..the white or yellow no issues..just red..
Is paint spraying pretty easy? Iv been going back and forth to whether or not i want to spray paint it or air spray it, And what type of primer i should use
Im primeing a metal bush hog. Can i brush the primer on straight out of the can? Vs spraying
so you can mix the rustoleum (primer) and paint is (magic ) what was the ratio of hardener for rustoleum so it could dry or reducer
have you used Majic Clear Coat ? Please let me know
What sprayer do you use?
use a paint mixer on a drill. it works a treat.
color is nice
you paint the engine assembled? i would tear it down to its bare block. remove the coil, condenser, carburetor, blower housing, and paint everything separately
.
The older Cubs engines were painted just like that and I do take the engine apart to make sure it's clean before I paint it , also don't have to worrie about putting the bolts all back in and messing up the paint
they really painted them like that. i did not know that. wouldnt you get paint on areas you dont want it. you dont really want paint the carb do you? i guess that's why i noticed some of the tractors i have worked on had paint on the carburator. i thought it was done sometime after it was produced but your saying it was done during production. interesting
+andrew donohue think of it this way if you were mass producing tractors why spend the time on such little details
could i use normal rustoleom spray can primer, then use magic paint?
Yeah you can prime with cans it just takes a lot longer
+chooster5000 thanks
+chooster5000 how much reducer do you need to put?
+Official Quaders24 depends on how much paint your mixing but I do 2 ounces of reducer to my 16 ounces of paint and mix in 4-5 cap fulls of hardener
+chooster5000 Thank you.