@@scifimodelshop I 100% think you can have this opinion. However, take my 2 cents. Say this is your livelihood. Company A makes 2 printers. Company A sends you said printers. You take them into review, you leave an awful review publicly trashing it and say you should never buy from this company. Now imagine Company A turns around and their printer 3 is truly a good printer. They may no longer want to work with you despite having a good product. You lose out on a ton of money. On the other hand, you can leave a more balanced review, professionally point out the flaws, do not sensationalize the issues, give helpful feedback, and maintain a relationship with the company. Now when printer 3 comes out you can have a brand deal. It's a tough balance between how you want to present things and the relationships you want to maintain. This occurs between people too. Money or no money involved.
@@kyle8575 which is why you can't trust a sponsored reviewer or really anyone who relies on donations. Donations are compromises. They are nothing more than lobyists to politicians... paying for quid pro quo. I generally only trust reviewers who state cold and clear that they bought the printers with their own money. This guy seems a nice chap and has a decent screen presence with excellent delivery and NO BGM (Thank the gods) but I'd only take his information with a pinch of dessicant, as entertainment and I wouldn't make any purchasing decisions based on his information, for example, and would turn to professionals who only do TH-cam to advertise their company or as a hobby rather than who want to "get to play with lots of great new gear" as he specified at the beginning of his video. Where this video has REAL VALUE is the fact that he covers so many different printers in a light-hearted and easy to digest fashion, all in a single volume. This is an excellent collection of hobbyist and "prosumer" or small business grade devices and has illuminated a number of devices I wouldn't have taken a second look at... It is also excellent for gripping a newcomer with his obvious enthusiasm as we know the more people in the printing game means the more innovation and competition that will happen!
@@scifimodelshop Thats why long term reviews are important. New out of the box a lot of things can be great products.. 3-6 months down the road you get issues and lack of customer support and it sours that product specifically. Honest reviews are usually honest.. in that moment, with that level of experience with that product. Always see if the person does follow up reviews like @thenextlayer is doing here. Bad actors usually wont at all and you get a great review on everything whiles its new, then silence about it thereafter.
Your tone and off the cuff style of speaking in this is SO GOOD. These are the kinds of videos I really like. Even if you script something, the way this was just more laid back was awesome.
Remarkably fair and balanced approach to the whole situation. Waiting til the dust settles on everything is a great idea. I totally get the strong feeling over it. But sometimes, standing back to see where the chips fall is the best way to error on the side of caution. Everyone makes mistakes, nothing is beyond redemption, and apologies can be made. Thanks, Frank. I appreciate your level-headed videos.
Hey I gotta say I loved this video. I watch most of your content and this one felt less scripted which I think I like more. Its really cool to see how many printers you keep and how many hours you've put on them.
I'm about two weeks now into owning a Bambulab X1 Carbon with AMS. So far, it has been terrific. I hope I don't encounter the issues you did! This technology is jaw-dropping for me. I've only had one previous printer, a "Mendelmax 1.0", that I built from self-sourced parts 12 years ago. Compared to modern printers, that old bed-slinger feels like a horse-drawn wagon! I've printed PLA, PLA+, PETG, and ABS so far, all completely successful. This has made 3D printing fun again! Thanks for all of your reviews.
The X1 C is my first printer. I did a bunch of research. Since the Additive Manufacturing Lab at Blue Origin Rocket Park at KSC, where I work, has over 20 of them, I figured I couldn’t go wrong. It has not disappointed me yet.
I've had mine for a few years now. All that's broken has been the toolhead board, and since I had an early model, I also had to upgrade to the new lidar. But you get a free new lidar with the board if you have the old one, since the old version is discontinued, so turned out better than new
Good way to explain a review of an item. More time on a machine can change alot of people's opinions as we tune them in. I loved quite a few machines where as time went on I started to dislike them (K1). Others I have hated out the box, tuned it and fell madly in love with over time printing with it (Neptune 4).
As a V2.4 owner, I think anyone who wants to build one at this point should just get a Sovol SV08. Replace the ABL probe to one that isn't so heat-sensitive and throw on a different hotend. Sooo much of a V2.4 is already there that it doesn't really make sense to spend 2-3x the cost to get a box of parts and still have to 3D print most of the motion system.
Ehh you're pretty damn close, but there's still a reason to buy a Voron and I absolutely will when/if I can ever afford one, but the SV08 is a decent first step into getting to know the Voron design. Sovol (even though I had heard only good things about them before this) has turned out to be an absolute shit show of a company that almost refuses to communicate with its customers. Here's a short list of examples: when placing my order I was never told that I wasn't actually buying a printer but placing a pre-order, I was not told that the enclosure and upgraded screen would not ship with the printer and would be a further delay, I was never given any sort of shipping time update once I figured out it was actually a pre-order and had to reach out multiple times and wait days to get anything, enclosure makes you lose Z height without printing a riser, "upgraded" screen is just a product bought from elsewhere with a 3D printed enclosure and a poorly chosen one with THREE freaking cables needed to connect it and from the side not the back meaning you'll always have 3 chonky wires making a mess of things. Then there's obnoxious nebulousness like not specifying if the "high flow all metal hotend" on their site is the one that comes with the printer or an upgrade, the fact that you either can buy a runout detection sensor or a tangle detection sensor but not one that does both, the fact that they literally JUST started offering build plates for sale and still only a single type, the fact that you need a UART adapter to upgrade the firmware AND SHIPPED THE FUCKING THING WITH FIRMWARE SO OUT OF DATE THE PRINTER SCREECHES AT ME 24/7 TO UPGRADE MAINSAIL, an absolute shit bet tensioning system, the build plate is mounted flat against the top of the undercarriage meaning air filters like the bento box will not fit, the fact that you can't buy hardened nozzles in anything other than .4mm, and much more. I am pretty happy with the printer overall though. My probe ended up being pretty damn accurate and I don't really like the idea of using the nozzle as a probe so I'm not quite sure whether I'll go with a Revo Voron w/ PZ probe or the same with an Eddy since it's so much faster, but the actual extruder itself seems to be pretty good. I was able to print with a 10+ year old roll of Ninjaflex that I've never gotten a single successful print out of so that was cool, but the hotend sucks so insanely bad you can't print at anything even approaching "fast" once you run out of the tiny sample of high-speed PLA the printer comes with. I already assumed the hotend would be the first thing I ended up replacing, I mean the whole concept of the printer was "taking the over-engineered Voron 2.4 design and cheaping out where the effect on the print quality will be negligible compared to the cost savings". But my list of what I personally consider "mandatory" upgrades has grown so that in addition to the hotend I plan on also changing the probe (mostly for speed but accuracy will also improve), the laughable ~4" offcentered LED strip, changing the runout sensor to a combined multi-sensor, adding a chamber heater, replacing all gantry pieces so actual tensioning is possible, the toolhead (so an endoscope can be used for a nozzle camera, a few LEDs can be added to illuminate the print area, and is designed in a way so you can actually see the nozzle and immediate print area, and potentially adding a CPAP to increase part cooling), build plate mounting setup, and probably more that I can't think of off the top of my head. I've been printing since ~1012 and before buying the SV08 was still using a CR-10v2, so I think that clarifies just how much of a massive purchase the SV08 was for my poor ass. While I am incredibly happy with what I got for the price I am pretty disappointed with the print quality I am able to achieve out of the box (and I seemed to have gotten a better machine than most). I got the most insane under-extrusion artifacts that actually look like vibration artifacts using the stock print speeds, I sincerely hope they're not vibration issues as that would mean there are much bigger issues. I guess I just spent 15 minutes saying "well, it's kind of complicated" in as long a format as I possibly could have.
SV08's look to be in the $500+ range. How cheap do you think a used ldo Voron 2.4 would have to be to be worth taking a chance on? What if it included a nevermore filter and an MMU?
@@TheSolongsidekick Sure, discord or something would probably be better, but I just wanted a general idea of people's opinions on the matter. I noticed some deals available locally, but I'm not quite ready to pick up another machine as of yet. Just trying to get an idea whether or not pursuing a used Voron could makes sense in terms of bang for buck when compared to other new offerings like the SV08. This thread included Voron owners on both sides of that discussion. Seemed like an OK place to get an opinion considering I'm not making a purchase now or a decision based on this feedback alone. I know that build quality is a big factor with these used machines, as is what hot end is present, mods, etc. Just trying to determine if keeping my eyes out for a deal is even worth my time.
Lol! I love that we all now have "travel 3d printers", I'm the same way. Before every trip I'm like "do I need a 3d printer on this trip". When I started my engineering career we didn't have access to 3d printers at any cost, now we have many and even ones that go with us on vacation!
After having owned the X1C and the P1S, I find the P1S to simply be more reliable and produce better prints. Maybe I got a bum X1C but it was finnicky and needed a ton of babysitting. I feel like the touch screen was nice, but I hardly used that function because bambu handy and bambu studio are just nicer to use regardless. It would "detect" failures more often than it actually failed. If you are on the fence between the X1C and P1S, get the P1S and use the extra money to get a ton of filament.
Nah. I dont agree that the scripted content feel forced. And he should be able to hear that this is not the only opinion from the comments. Since he has clearly seen your comment.
Follow up videos are some of my favorite. I do the same with my printers in regard to having each one for a purpose. Loved the video, and it shows how much you enjoy each printer and why. Great job! Resin and laser stuff as mentioned isn’t of much interest to me. FDM is great because the part can be done when it’s finished. Resin is messy, stinks, and has more steps after printing than my adhd wants to do after every print.
Same. Now and then. IDK like one video a month maybe? Frankly Resin printing seems more complex to me. Though that might not be the case, I'm just ignorant I think.
@@yobtnirp3D Yes, the FDMs should not be in your bedroom w/o an enclosure and direct ventilation. Even for PLA. If you have a window that can open you can do just about anything to clear the air.
This is an awesome comparison and I appreciate the effort that went in! I just got an x1c about a week ago and so far I love it! Keep up the amazing videos!
Always liked 3d printing since a few friends got Ender 3s from Microcenter when they did their $99 deal. Would ask them to print stuff for me I used in some of my content. Then my brother-in-law who lives with me came home with a Ankermake M5 about a year ago. Really liked that printer, but it wasn't the easy-button of printing I was looking for, though it was VERY close. Between FT job, daily responsibilities, content creation, and other stuff that takes up my time...i really dont have time for tinkering on printers. Then the A1 came out and the rest is history. Even my brother in-law hopped on the Bambu Lab train and bought a X1 Carbon. So now my studio/office has an Ankermake M5, Bambu Lab A1, and X1 Carbon all lined up on one of the desks in there. Its awesome to see them all running. Brother-in-law also has an SV06 Plus he's hot rodded with mods, and added Klipper to, that his school provided (fabrication school, currently in the digital design courses). Ever play around with the Ankermake M5? Any thoughts? There doesnt seem to be alot of confidence in Anker's 3d printing business going forward since the cancellation of their multi-color thing. Comments of "Bambu Lab is what Ankermake was supposed to be" that I see has me feeling that Bambu Lab might buy their 3d printing business out...but thats just speculation. I think Anker is too big to let that happen lol.
Its really great that you share your printer profiles on patreon. I dont have the same printers as you (yet) but when I buy something you use I will definitely give them a try. Keep up the great content ❤
Love the video, great insight into what goes into owning too many printers lol. Really makes me want to build a Voron V0 and V2, opposite ends of the spectrum but both super useful. Also makes me glad I went with Bambu's P1S rather than the X1C, mine's been damn near perfect (except for the AMS getting full of cardboard spool dust), seems like they've got the P1 series way more dialed in than the X1 series
I have around 6000h on my Voron 2.4 R2 350mm. Added Tap, chamber heater and a ERCF 1.0. But my go to is my X1C now. I comes down to the AMS, Spaghetti detection and automatic lidar pressure advance. I recently bought a Snapmaker J1 as well to bet able to print 2 colors a LOT faster. 5-7s instead of 90s filament change time and to be able to print TPU and ABS together or use a second material as support material.
So would you say the P1S would be better than the X1C for someone who is a beginner and just starting out? I would be keeping it in my spare bedroom and would be using it for making Samurai Oni Masks and other odds and ends.
I like resin, and have made a few useful tools out of the stuff. But even the "tough" resin doesn't beat a good ABS FDM print in terms of durability. Its also easier to fool with and you get better resolution without having to factor in the nozzle width, etc. But I think the big thing about resin printers is that they aren't as "involved" in terms of building with them. I find them about 100x easier to use, so no reason to go fishing for TH-cam content unless I hear about some "unbreakable" resin. So, thanks for leaving those out 😂
Good Afternoon Jonathan, I see you're still running an Alpha build Positron, many of the issues you have outlined have been fixed in the latest revision. We can get you the parts needed to upgrade it as needed. For context; Bed Leveling has been fixed with a Z_Endstop that makes homing more reliable. The heating issue is caused by the original alpha clip not being tight enough against the hotend, this has been fixed in release. Additionally, the Z Belt has been re-designed to be more reliable as a whole.
Cant watch right now but I'm definitely coming back to watch this later. I built a Voron2.4 (300) last year/early this year, and it's a TANK. I literally JUST set up an X1 at work yesterday. Early like and comment to feed the YT overlords.
Really interesting video! Appreciate you going through all of these. This would be a good series to revisit maybe once a year to see how your opinions have changed.
I love my MK3S+ with MMU2s. About your comments about this printer. I also replaced the nozzle with an E3D Revo. Furthermore I run it with Octoprint. But main thing: slow? I have my MK3S+ running not so slow at all. My Revo has a 0.6mm nozzle most of the time. But also I just use the pre installed settings for filaments to eventually run the prints at 200% speed with no problems at all (sometimes increasing nozzle temperature). Slow? It can print twice as fast. And with a 0.6 nozzle instead of 0.4....... even faster
i added a p1s to my first 3d printer the cr10s pro v2, I love the cr10s reliability and huge build volume, just not the bed levelling. p1s has been game changer, its easier to use then basic paper printers from HP these days.
Back when I ran Ultimaker 2s one of them had about 10k hours on it when the first part broke that wasn't a consumsble. The other two had like 4k and 5-6k hours on then and were still fine. Though for context all those printers had been converted to 1,75mm. With stock gear they would not gave survived that long because I would have thrown them out of the window.
That is interesting that you dislike the “proprietary” nature of Anycubic but have no problem with Bambu Lab. I guess it really comes down to ease of use and Bambu Lab has really done that.
Great video! It's interesting to me you've had so much success with your A1 minis. Mine has been a nonstop string of problems. Especally on AMS prints. Massive layer shifts on all axis, the AMS purging system is abysmal, the toolhead smacks things off the print bed constantly because the Z offset calibrates itself and then is too low... probably 20-25% of my prints fail on that machine. Especally multi color prints. My friend has a full sized A1 that works great, and now hearing about your X1 Carbon issues, I wonder if Bambu Labs just has really bad QC and sends out a lot of lemons.
The AMS problem you are having... I just finished with support for the SAME problem. I my case is resolved itself when I replaced the motor. Might want to try that first.
I'd suggest looking into a print that changes where the filament loads into the ptfe tube, it's on the x,z normally but at the start of a print when the machine does its thing it'll pull some filament from the roll then go back down causing a tangle. Unless you got the ams lite then ignore all that lol
@@kostis_pro so there are printer profiles which exist which set rules for stuff such as what is the space that the printer will try to print in, as well as speed, acceleration, retracting. People with experience may make their own modifications from the preset profiles to optimize the machine.
18:02 I have the regular SV07 and I've just had random bed shifting where the print shifts 1 layer. Still looking into it for the problem but when it works *chefs kiss*
@@thenextlayer sadly tried both and it still had this problem. Only thing I could come up with is the actual timing belt pulley is messed up. It's like randomly shifting at the Bed so I'm hoping to get that changed out and it's good to go
For making engineering parts I have a Bambulab X1C which is my 14th 3D printer and by far the best FDM. I really need a similar quality printer with the ability to print something that is at least 535 mm long. What options could you recommend? I have a couple of Creality CR10 Max that can print the size, but the quality is not in the same ball park as the X1C
@@thenextlayer my country average is 8% higher than yours :s maybe cz I buy the cheapest PETG it's cut with other random stuff? When not in use I store it with 100G fresh silica per spool in a dry bag - could that mitigate issues?
Between a solvo sv07+ and sv08. What are the real difference to the final print. I need a helmet size printer. I could imagine the sv08 to be somewhat faster. However how is adhesion to the build plate? Layer lines? Final quality of the print? The sv08 looks very primissing. However with black friday sale comming up. The sv07+ is sold at a really low price....... So what do people recommend?
I'm surprised the Qidi with the heated chamber didn't make it after receiving so much hype on TH-cam and a lot of praise for listening to feedback and fixing so many issue, basically doing a relaunch. Did it turn out to be not that great after all?
I've got one; it's a good general purpose printer, but unless you're routinely printing stuff which needs the heated chamber, the Voron 2.4 does just as well, and requires less maintenance.
Electronics failed randomly and I didn’t want to pay out of pocket to replace the board so I ditched it. I did a short updating people not to bother with the machine
I've got an A1 Mini arriving in two days. I'm quite excited, it's my first 3D printer. It was on sale (I think?) for $249 CAD (equivalent to $185 USD), it was hard to say no as a jumping-in point. I regret not ordering the AMS Lite, though. It's like $100 more expensive if you don't order it with the printer. I didn't think I'd use it, but then I realized that it would have been quite convenient even if I didn't want to do multi-colour prints. Oh well! I can always pick one up in the future at the non-bundle price.
Looking forward to more Solvol SV08 content! That new toolhead is interesting! 😎 If you're maybe doing the toolchanger project, you might start converting it to canbus while your tinkering with the new toolhead now?
I don’t mind resin stuff. I don’t have one but I think they’re interesting. I'd also like to hear about your laser cutters. I just got an xTool M1 and it’s kinda cool.
Hi Been watching some of your vids, i saw you also have a beagle 5:39 How are things with it? Aby quirk i should know? There are better and afordable options?
My Kobra 2 Max was such a headache that I recently broke and purchased the X1C…. Anycubic seems to have major design flaws in both the Kobra 2 and Kobra 3 hotends
I’ve not seen a video from your channel in awhile, frankly, because it was becoming a tad to “sponsored”, rushed or otherwise inauthentic. This was a great video. I really appreciate the time and candor in this video. It’s clear that you are considering feedback and integrating it into your process. Cheers!
A problem I'm having with my Bambu P1S. Let's take a cube for instance. Now lets put a couple holes in it that do not go all the way through. They are not directly on top of each other but are slightly offset and separated by a 1mm wall. When I try to slice it I get a warning that there are floating areas and if I try to print it, it doesn't stick to the plate. If I enable supports it changes the object. It gets all kinds of stryations and puts supports underneath the object. What am I doing wrong and how do I correct this? I can send pics if neeced.
I bought a QIDI XMAX-3 which I saw flash by in the voron section in your video. Saw the comments below about why it wasn't included in your LTR. I think mine is fantastic, best performance of all my printers. I even have a MAKERBOT T.O.M. from 2010 (Sailfish and Replicator G USB connect) that still works and a MAKERFARM i3 12" (300mm Marlin with Slic3r and Pronterface for control USB connect) with an itty bitty dual flexstruder upgrade I put on myself. Both use 3mm filament and I have never used an SD card or USB to print a file. The QIDI is by far the easiest to use of my 5 printers and the highest quality, not to mention the speed and huge build volume. I print most of my objects with ABS so need the heated chamber. There are cool spots in the chamber but I just move the model around to avoid them. Klipper is great with the network connect. I especially like the "IRON" feature in the QIDI slicer version of slic3r. Have not noticed any maintenance issues yet - other than the fact that those 1.75mm reels seem to get eaten up quickly.
Did you have any cooling issues with the panda revo hotend on the P1S? Stefan (CNC Kitchen) mentioned in his video that it is a bit longer and therefore the fan is now blowing onto the nozzle. I've noticed you have a different airduct mounted though, does it fix that?
Stringing may be due to wet filament. Also Bambu likes to print petg hotter than even the filament manufacturer recommendations for max temperature. Funnily it gives great results. Try it.
@@arturdobrzynski6531 my hatchbox likes it a little bit more lower temps but I'm good with the strings especially where it was printing a skull with hair so it gave it a more realistic/messy haircut lolll But for more solid stuff I do have the dryers ready to go
AND im STILL voting for build yourself printers like the Voron😤😅 Again great video mate ! and it will for sure help some newbies choosing their path ... just have to warn all newbies to be aware of - Vorons lead down a deep deep rabbit hole 🤣💀
@@thenextlayer nah its not pathethic, its still a lot of time print, you just sad it like it was something almost impossible to do and it made me laugh 🙃, just yesterday i found some dude have almost 690 days on his Prusa , damn that is almost ancient 🤣
Hey might i ASK do you think printing your second printer IS a good choice/ IS IT even possible are there any companys that sell parts Kits and you Print the other stuff?
I emailed Microswiss and they are planning on a NG/flowtech upgrade for the SV-08. Once they have the unit they ordered. 😊 I think the SV-08 is destined to become the new Ender 3.
The Ender 3 made waves because of how accessible it is; almost everyone has enough space on their desk for one and $150. The SV-08 is more than twice the size and more than 3x the price. It’s not nearly as accessible. Sure it’s more accessible than a X1C, but it’s larger and about the same price as a P1S. Don’t get me wrong, the SV-08 is a significantly better printer than an Ender 3
@@TheOfficialOriginalChad I meant as in mods by the community. One person put it as the poor man’s voron 2.4. Which is not a bad thing I think it will put a more than capable machine in the hands of lots of creative people.
I had to check my MK3S and it has over 1400 days on it in the last 4.5 years. Easily my most used printer followed by my Voron 2.4 and Trident. Though the Bambu A1 Mini is getting a good bit of use lately.
Do a Separate Resin printer and Resin Brand/type review. Very Important to see actual tested and tried data. Also a Stack Ranked List of FDM and Resin printers per your experiences.
Do you have any experience and/or thoughts on RatRig V-Core models? I like your honesty and value your experience. I am very interested in a large format printer, but I'm on a limited budget so buying a printer I don't like would be a big problem.
Do you have an FLSUN S1 on the way? I do. But it's the one review I've been waiting for you to do! Seems like you don't have any Delta's either so it seems like it would be a good fit. It should be the fastest printer you have too, and the only one with remote cooling / a CPAP fan? It's just so different than all your other FDM printers that I'd love to hear your thoughts on it.
Please Please Please do a video of all the upgrades you have done to the X1C! Would LOVE to see that, all in one combined video. :D You mentioned upgrade of PTFE tubing etc... would love to know more! :D
I'm moderately curious about the resin printers. I have a Mars 2 Pro and have just really come to hate the stupid thing. So messy and smelly. But the quality really can be amazing, so I'd be interested to see if the process has become easier with any newer machines.
How do you like the revo panda I installed it and it is working great do you mind telling me how overhangs are and I see you have a modded cooling duct is that stl available I bought the biqu duct but I think I can do better
I'm curious if you have little humidity where you live. I have a lot of humidity and was thinking that the A1 4 spool would not work for me. What do you think?
Would you be able to make a video about how you track your printers hours? I think a lot of people looking to get into the 3D printing business would benefit from it. Please and thank you for all the amazing content sir!
Hey Jonathan, can you plz help me out to choose between creality K1C and bambu lab A1..? I want to take it for my personal work which is bit of engineering and bit of hobby work.
Do you need to print engineering materials? If so, K1C. If not, and you’ll only print PLA and occasional PETG, or you want multicolor, A1. Feel free to use my links
the speed of prints now has me rating printer wear at meters of filament now. I.E. my old Replicator Dual has about 10K+ hours printing at 45mms-120mms but im VERY certain my Creality Sermoon D1 (Heavily modified) which has about 1,600 hours and runs at 200-250mm/s 5K (print speed) has printed about the same in just two years. Currently at about 10,000m of filament. About 330m per spool means about 30 spools, and 1 or two spools a month sounds right
Great content, Sir. Personally I'm not interested in Resin printing as I won't be doing it at home. Btw.: Just got myself the second RatRig printer. A V-Core 4 - 300. Haven't started the build yet and would love to see content about it. For me my RatRig V-Core 3 is what the Voron 2.4 is for you. A highly a reliable, fast workhorse that I'm emotionally attached to.
Thanks for making excellent contributions to the community.
Make a whole video on those discarded printers. I love the knowledge that you share with us (especially the pros & cons of a printer/filament/mod)
lol I don’t wanna burn bridges with manufacturers so I put it behind a Patreon pay wall where I tell people the good the bad and the ugly
@@thenextlayer this very reason why I do not trust there "Honest" review because it not you are just hiding the true to get more free stuff
@@scifimodelshop I 100% think you can have this opinion. However, take my 2 cents.
Say this is your livelihood. Company A makes 2 printers. Company A sends you said printers. You take them into review, you leave an awful review publicly trashing it and say you should never buy from this company. Now imagine Company A turns around and their printer 3 is truly a good printer. They may no longer want to work with you despite having a good product. You lose out on a ton of money.
On the other hand, you can leave a more balanced review, professionally point out the flaws, do not sensationalize the issues, give helpful feedback, and maintain a relationship with the company. Now when printer 3 comes out you can have a brand deal. It's a tough balance between how you want to present things and the relationships you want to maintain. This occurs between people too. Money or no money involved.
@@kyle8575 which is why you can't trust a sponsored reviewer or really anyone who relies on donations. Donations are compromises. They are nothing more than lobyists to politicians... paying for quid pro quo.
I generally only trust reviewers who state cold and clear that they bought the printers with their own money.
This guy seems a nice chap and has a decent screen presence with excellent delivery and NO BGM (Thank the gods) but I'd only take his information with a pinch of dessicant, as entertainment and I wouldn't make any purchasing decisions based on his information, for example, and would turn to professionals who only do TH-cam to advertise their company or as a hobby rather than who want to "get to play with lots of great new gear" as he specified at the beginning of his video.
Where this video has REAL VALUE is the fact that he covers so many different printers in a light-hearted and easy to digest fashion, all in a single volume. This is an excellent collection of hobbyist and "prosumer" or small business grade devices and has illuminated a number of devices I wouldn't have taken a second look at... It is also excellent for gripping a newcomer with his obvious enthusiasm as we know the more people in the printing game means the more innovation and competition that will happen!
@@scifimodelshop Thats why long term reviews are important. New out of the box a lot of things can be great products.. 3-6 months down the road you get issues and lack of customer support and it sours that product specifically. Honest reviews are usually honest.. in that moment, with that level of experience with that product. Always see if the person does follow up reviews like @thenextlayer is doing here. Bad actors usually wont at all and you get a great review on everything whiles its new, then silence about it thereafter.
Your tone and off the cuff style of speaking in this is SO GOOD. These are the kinds of videos I really like. Even if you script something, the way this was just more laid back was awesome.
Yep. I need to get better at keeping it casual even if I script… thanks for the feedback
Remarkably fair and balanced approach to the whole situation. Waiting til the dust settles on everything is a great idea. I totally get the strong feeling over it. But sometimes, standing back to see where the chips fall is the best way to error on the side of caution. Everyone makes mistakes, nothing is beyond redemption, and apologies can be made. Thanks, Frank. I appreciate your level-headed videos.
Hey I gotta say I loved this video. I watch most of your content and this one felt less scripted which I think I like more. Its really cool to see how many printers you keep and how many hours you've put on them.
I don't dislike resin content, it's just got less going for it after "wow look at the detail that you can achieve with resin"
@@chesimons8862 waiting for the X1C of resin
I'm about two weeks now into owning a Bambulab X1 Carbon with AMS. So far, it has been terrific. I hope I don't encounter the issues you did! This technology is jaw-dropping for me. I've only had one previous printer, a "Mendelmax 1.0", that I built from self-sourced parts 12 years ago. Compared to modern printers, that old bed-slinger feels like a horse-drawn wagon! I've printed PLA, PLA+, PETG, and ABS so far, all completely successful. This has made 3D printing fun again!
Thanks for all of your reviews.
Welcome to the Bambu family :)
The X1 C is my first printer. I did a bunch of research. Since the Additive Manufacturing Lab at Blue Origin Rocket Park at KSC, where I work, has over 20 of them, I figured I couldn’t go wrong. It has not disappointed me yet.
I've had mine for a few years now. All that's broken has been the toolhead board, and since I had an early model, I also had to upgrade to the new lidar. But you get a free new lidar with the board if you have the old one, since the old version is discontinued, so turned out better than new
Good way to explain a review of an item. More time on a machine can change alot of people's opinions as we tune them in. I loved quite a few machines where as time went on I started to dislike them (K1). Others I have hated out the box, tuned it and fell madly in love with over time printing with it (Neptune 4).
Great point!
As a V2.4 owner, I think anyone who wants to build one at this point should just get a Sovol SV08. Replace the ABL probe to one that isn't so heat-sensitive and throw on a different hotend. Sooo much of a V2.4 is already there that it doesn't really make sense to spend 2-3x the cost to get a box of parts and still have to 3D print most of the motion system.
Ehh you're pretty damn close, but there's still a reason to buy a Voron and I absolutely will when/if I can ever afford one, but the SV08 is a decent first step into getting to know the Voron design. Sovol (even though I had heard only good things about them before this) has turned out to be an absolute shit show of a company that almost refuses to communicate with its customers. Here's a short list of examples: when placing my order I was never told that I wasn't actually buying a printer but placing a pre-order, I was not told that the enclosure and upgraded screen would not ship with the printer and would be a further delay, I was never given any sort of shipping time update once I figured out it was actually a pre-order and had to reach out multiple times and wait days to get anything, enclosure makes you lose Z height without printing a riser, "upgraded" screen is just a product bought from elsewhere with a 3D printed enclosure and a poorly chosen one with THREE freaking cables needed to connect it and from the side not the back meaning you'll always have 3 chonky wires making a mess of things. Then there's obnoxious nebulousness like not specifying if the "high flow all metal hotend" on their site is the one that comes with the printer or an upgrade, the fact that you either can buy a runout detection sensor or a tangle detection sensor but not one that does both, the fact that they literally JUST started offering build plates for sale and still only a single type, the fact that you need a UART adapter to upgrade the firmware AND SHIPPED THE FUCKING THING WITH FIRMWARE SO OUT OF DATE THE PRINTER SCREECHES AT ME 24/7 TO UPGRADE MAINSAIL, an absolute shit bet tensioning system, the build plate is mounted flat against the top of the undercarriage meaning air filters like the bento box will not fit, the fact that you can't buy hardened nozzles in anything other than .4mm, and much more.
I am pretty happy with the printer overall though. My probe ended up being pretty damn accurate and I don't really like the idea of using the nozzle as a probe so I'm not quite sure whether I'll go with a Revo Voron w/ PZ probe or the same with an Eddy since it's so much faster, but the actual extruder itself seems to be pretty good. I was able to print with a 10+ year old roll of Ninjaflex that I've never gotten a single successful print out of so that was cool, but the hotend sucks so insanely bad you can't print at anything even approaching "fast" once you run out of the tiny sample of high-speed PLA the printer comes with. I already assumed the hotend would be the first thing I ended up replacing, I mean the whole concept of the printer was "taking the over-engineered Voron 2.4 design and cheaping out where the effect on the print quality will be negligible compared to the cost savings". But my list of what I personally consider "mandatory" upgrades has grown so that in addition to the hotend I plan on also changing the probe (mostly for speed but accuracy will also improve), the laughable ~4" offcentered LED strip, changing the runout sensor to a combined multi-sensor, adding a chamber heater, replacing all gantry pieces so actual tensioning is possible, the toolhead (so an endoscope can be used for a nozzle camera, a few LEDs can be added to illuminate the print area, and is designed in a way so you can actually see the nozzle and immediate print area, and potentially adding a CPAP to increase part cooling), build plate mounting setup, and probably more that I can't think of off the top of my head.
I've been printing since ~1012 and before buying the SV08 was still using a CR-10v2, so I think that clarifies just how much of a massive purchase the SV08 was for my poor ass. While I am incredibly happy with what I got for the price I am pretty disappointed with the print quality I am able to achieve out of the box (and I seemed to have gotten a better machine than most). I got the most insane under-extrusion artifacts that actually look like vibration artifacts using the stock print speeds, I sincerely hope they're not vibration issues as that would mean there are much bigger issues. I guess I just spent 15 minutes saying "well, it's kind of complicated" in as long a format as I possibly could have.
SV08's look to be in the $500+ range. How cheap do you think a used ldo Voron 2.4 would have to be to be worth taking a chance on? What if it included a nevermore filter and an MMU?
@@greenie277 Really? This is just about the worst place to ask for advice like that.
@@TheSolongsidekick Sure, discord or something would probably be better, but I just wanted a general idea of people's opinions on the matter. I noticed some deals available locally, but I'm not quite ready to pick up another machine as of yet. Just trying to get an idea whether or not pursuing a used Voron could makes sense in terms of bang for buck when compared to other new offerings like the SV08. This thread included Voron owners on both sides of that discussion. Seemed like an OK place to get an opinion considering I'm not making a purchase now or a decision based on this feedback alone. I know that build quality is a big factor with these used machines, as is what hot end is present, mods, etc. Just trying to determine if keeping my eyes out for a deal is even worth my time.
Lol! I love that we all now have "travel 3d printers", I'm the same way. Before every trip I'm like "do I need a 3d printer on this trip". When I started my engineering career we didn't have access to 3d printers at any cost, now we have many and even ones that go with us on vacation!
After having owned the X1C and the P1S, I find the P1S to simply be more reliable and produce better prints. Maybe I got a bum X1C but it was finnicky and needed a ton of babysitting. I feel like the touch screen was nice, but I hardly used that function because bambu handy and bambu studio are just nicer to use regardless. It would "detect" failures more often than it actually failed. If you are on the fence between the X1C and P1S, get the P1S and use the extra money to get a ton of filament.
I much prefer the less scripted style of this video compared to your normal stuff your scripted stuff sometimes just feels very forced
I disagree.
@@Kepusu cool keep it to yourself
Nah. I dont agree that the scripted content feel forced. And he should be able to hear that this is not the only opinion from the comments. Since he has clearly seen your comment.
I just simply disagree to your opinion. Why even write a comment if you dont expect a response that dont align with your thoughts.
I'm with you. It's more sepfie than info about the printer and actually seeing it. While talking I'd prefer a screen with showing the printer itself.
Follow up videos are some of my favorite. I do the same with my printers in regard to having each one for a purpose. Loved the video, and it shows how much you enjoy each printer and why. Great job!
Resin and laser stuff as mentioned isn’t of much interest to me. FDM is great because the part can be done when it’s finished. Resin is messy, stinks, and has more steps after printing than my adhd wants to do after every print.
I like resin content as a curiosity every now and then. Things like "hey, you could definitely not print this in FDM"
Same. Now and then. IDK like one video a month maybe? Frankly Resin printing seems more complex to me. Though that might not be the case, I'm just ignorant I think.
I love the quality of resin prints but i have the printer in my bedroom so i am not able to vent it and have a dedicated space for it.
You really shouldn’t have a 3D printer in your bedroom.
@@customlegoworks I have two fdm printers in my room, I would never have a resin printer though
@@yobtnirp3D Yes, the FDMs should not be in your bedroom w/o an enclosure and direct ventilation. Even for PLA. If you have a window that can open you can do just about anything to clear the air.
Would be great if every 3D printing youtuber made a video like that once every 1 or 2 years.
On it!
This is one of my favorite videos you've done. The spreadsheet is a brilliant idea, and I like resin printers!
Yay, thank you!
This is an awesome comparison and I appreciate the effort that went in! I just got an x1c about a week ago and so far I love it! Keep up the amazing videos!
Always liked 3d printing since a few friends got Ender 3s from Microcenter when they did their $99 deal. Would ask them to print stuff for me I used in some of my content. Then my brother-in-law who lives with me came home with a Ankermake M5 about a year ago. Really liked that printer, but it wasn't the easy-button of printing I was looking for, though it was VERY close. Between FT job, daily responsibilities, content creation, and other stuff that takes up my time...i really dont have time for tinkering on printers. Then the A1 came out and the rest is history. Even my brother in-law hopped on the Bambu Lab train and bought a X1 Carbon. So now my studio/office has an Ankermake M5, Bambu Lab A1, and X1 Carbon all lined up on one of the desks in there. Its awesome to see them all running. Brother-in-law also has an SV06 Plus he's hot rodded with mods, and added Klipper to, that his school provided (fabrication school, currently in the digital design courses).
Ever play around with the Ankermake M5? Any thoughts? There doesnt seem to be alot of confidence in Anker's 3d printing business going forward since the cancellation of their multi-color thing. Comments of "Bambu Lab is what Ankermake was supposed to be" that I see has me feeling that Bambu Lab might buy their 3d printing business out...but thats just speculation. I think Anker is too big to let that happen lol.
Great video, a lot of useful information!!! Thank you so much for mentioning me and my channel!!!
You are so welcome!
Its really great that you share your printer profiles on patreon. I dont have the same printers as you (yet) but when I buy something you use I will definitely give them a try. Keep up the great content ❤
Thank you for the real life use update! I appreciate that you included print hour, it very much helped to confirm what I heard you say😂😂
I also had terrible luck with my X1C. Happy to see I’m not the only one.
Love the video, great insight into what goes into owning too many printers lol. Really makes me want to build a Voron V0 and V2, opposite ends of the spectrum but both super useful.
Also makes me glad I went with Bambu's P1S rather than the X1C, mine's been damn near perfect (except for the AMS getting full of cardboard spool dust), seems like they've got the P1 series way more dialed in than the X1 series
I have around 6000h on my Voron 2.4 R2 350mm. Added Tap, chamber heater and a ERCF 1.0. But my go to is my X1C now.
I comes down to the AMS, Spaghetti detection and automatic lidar pressure advance.
I recently bought a Snapmaker J1 as well to bet able to print 2 colors a LOT faster. 5-7s instead of 90s filament change time and to be able to print TPU and ABS together or use a second material as support material.
So would you say the P1S would be better than the X1C for someone who is a beginner and just starting out? I would be keeping it in my spare bedroom and would be using it for making Samurai Oni Masks and other odds and ends.
14:14 there is a mod you can do for the ams lite and enclose the areas with the filaments so you can print petg just fine 😊
I like resin, and have made a few useful tools out of the stuff. But even the "tough" resin doesn't beat a good ABS FDM print in terms of durability. Its also easier to fool with and you get better resolution without having to factor in the nozzle width, etc. But I think the big thing about resin printers is that they aren't as "involved" in terms of building with them. I find them about 100x easier to use, so no reason to go fishing for TH-cam content unless I hear about some "unbreakable" resin. So, thanks for leaving those out 😂
Good Afternoon Jonathan, I see you're still running an Alpha build Positron, many of the issues you have outlined have been fixed in the latest revision. We can get you the parts needed to upgrade it as needed.
For context; Bed Leveling has been fixed with a Z_Endstop that makes homing more reliable. The heating issue is caused by the original alpha clip not being tight enough against the hotend, this has been fixed in release. Additionally, the Z Belt has been re-designed to be more reliable as a whole.
Nice!!! I’d love replacement parts. Ping me on discord
0:20 best 3D REVIEW KNOW ABOUT IT SINCE 2000 but you confirmed a lot of the expenses involved!
Cant watch right now but I'm definitely coming back to watch this later. I built a Voron2.4 (300) last year/early this year, and it's a TANK. I literally JUST set up an X1 at work yesterday.
Early like and comment to feed the YT overlords.
Really interesting video! Appreciate you going through all of these. This would be a good series to revisit maybe once a year to see how your opinions have changed.
I'd like to see you make a short new version of this with the crappy changes Bambu just dropped.
I really like the concept of this video. Thanks for the information.
Glad it was helpful!
I love my MK3S+ with MMU2s. About your comments about this printer.
I also replaced the nozzle with an E3D Revo. Furthermore I run it with Octoprint.
But main thing: slow? I have my MK3S+ running not so slow at all.
My Revo has a 0.6mm nozzle most of the time. But also I just use the pre installed settings for filaments to eventually run the prints at 200% speed with no problems at all (sometimes increasing nozzle temperature).
Slow? It can print twice as fast. And with a 0.6 nozzle instead of 0.4....... even faster
yeah, no resin for me.
Luv this kind of 'hindsight review'. Much more valuable than open-box or first-use reviews. thx
Glad it was helpful! I’ll try to do more
i added a p1s to my first 3d printer the cr10s pro v2, I love the cr10s reliability and huge build volume, just not the bed levelling. p1s has been game changer, its easier to use then basic paper printers from HP these days.
I had a Prusa MK3S+, BambuLab X1 Carbon and Voron Trident 300.
Sold the Prusa and the BambuLab and kept the Voron. It's just so damn good.
Back when I ran Ultimaker 2s one of them had about 10k hours on it when the first part broke that wasn't a consumsble. The other two had like 4k and 5-6k hours on then and were still fine. Though for context all those printers had been converted to 1,75mm. With stock gear they would not gave survived that long because I would have thrown them out of the window.
I like this more chill style of video
Ah interesting thanks for the feedback. This is way less work lol.
Nice variety! There seem to be a lot of printers within a common price range, so it's becoming harder to decide!
Definitely interesting thoughts on these printers; can't say I'm surprised by many of them, but it's nice to have the summary either way
That is interesting that you dislike the “proprietary” nature of Anycubic but have no problem with Bambu Lab. I guess it really comes down to ease of use and Bambu Lab has really done that.
Bingo. If the walled garden has everything you need, there’s no reason to want to leave.
Great video!
It's interesting to me you've had so much success with your A1 minis. Mine has been a nonstop string of problems. Especally on AMS prints. Massive layer shifts on all axis, the AMS purging system is abysmal, the toolhead smacks things off the print bed constantly because the Z offset calibrates itself and then is too low... probably 20-25% of my prints fail on that machine. Especally multi color prints.
My friend has a full sized A1 that works great, and now hearing about your X1 Carbon issues, I wonder if Bambu Labs just has really bad QC and sends out a lot of lemons.
ha a lot of 3d printers over the years. and i just got the k1 max. it looks really good.
The AMS problem you are having... I just finished with support for the SAME problem. I my case is resolved itself when I replaced the motor. Might want to try that first.
Yep. Same. Fixed it.
I'm new to 3D printing, so I like seeing both sides of the fence. Resin is cool, even though it's intimidating...
just got our first printer yesterday(well 2nd hand😅),and this is what i want to do,promote 3d printers and filament...
Really good video! Tomorrow my first 3d printer the a1 mini arrives. Any tips?
I'd suggest looking into a print that changes where the filament loads into the ptfe tube, it's on the x,z normally but at the start of a print when the machine does its thing it'll pull some filament from the roll then go back down causing a tangle. Unless you got the ams lite then ignore all that lol
@@Yaup_ I didn't get the ams lite
One of the first prints to do should be some sort of poop box for the a1 mini
@@U1TR4F0RCE OK, will do. Also, may I ask a question? How print profile work and what I need to use and change?
@@kostis_pro so there are printer profiles which exist which set rules for stuff such as what is the space that the printer will try to print in, as well as speed, acceleration, retracting. People with experience may make their own modifications from the preset profiles to optimize the machine.
18:02 I have the regular SV07 and I've just had random bed shifting where the print shifts 1 layer. Still looking into it for the problem but when it works *chefs kiss*
Tighten the belts or increase Z hop
@@thenextlayer sadly tried both and it still had this problem. Only thing I could come up with is the actual timing belt pulley is messed up. It's like randomly shifting at the Bed so I'm hoping to get that changed out and it's good to go
For making engineering parts I have a Bambulab X1C which is my 14th 3D printer and by far the best FDM.
I really need a similar quality printer with the ability to print something that is at least 535 mm long. What options could you recommend?
I have a couple of Creality CR10 Max that can print the size, but the quality is not in the same ball park as the X1C
? Petg prints fine on my A1mini - tho you may mention not all spools fit on the ams lite, as the centre is not always big enough
In my climate I can’t leave PETG out in the open for more than an hour
@@thenextlayer my country average is 8% higher than yours :s maybe cz I buy the cheapest PETG it's cut with other random stuff? When not in use I store it with 100G fresh silica per spool in a dry bag - could that mitigate issues?
I like resin stuff! I don't own one (yet) but always keen to look at reviews and opinions on them!
Between a solvo sv07+ and sv08. What are the real difference to the final print. I need a helmet size printer.
I could imagine the sv08 to be somewhat faster. However how is adhesion to the build plate? Layer lines? Final quality of the print?
The sv08 looks very primissing. However with black friday sale comming up. The sv07+ is sold at a really low price.......
So what do people recommend?
Do you have your X1C 0.6mm profiles posted anywhere? The stock profiles for 0.6mm seem very lackluster compared to 0.4mm.
I'm surprised the Qidi with the heated chamber didn't make it after receiving so much hype on TH-cam and a lot of praise for listening to feedback and fixing so many issue, basically doing a relaunch. Did it turn out to be not that great after all?
I've got one; it's a good general purpose printer, but unless you're routinely printing stuff which needs the heated chamber, the Voron 2.4 does just as well, and requires less maintenance.
Electronics failed randomly and I didn’t want to pay out of pocket to replace the board so I ditched it. I did a short updating people not to bother with the machine
Probably because he broke the machine himself and then qidi couldn't offer him a free warranty. So he started smearing qidi.😅😅
I was shocked by the A1 Mini as an X1 Carbon owner. It's been so great.
I've got an A1 Mini arriving in two days. I'm quite excited, it's my first 3D printer. It was on sale (I think?) for $249 CAD (equivalent to $185 USD), it was hard to say no as a jumping-in point. I regret not ordering the AMS Lite, though. It's like $100 more expensive if you don't order it with the printer. I didn't think I'd use it, but then I realized that it would have been quite convenient even if I didn't want to do multi-colour prints. Oh well! I can always pick one up in the future at the non-bundle price.
Great video, really like this type of videos 😀
Looking forward to more Solvol SV08 content! That new toolhead is interesting! 😎
If you're maybe doing the toolchanger project, you might start converting it to canbus while your tinkering with the new toolhead now?
Way ahead of you bro
I don’t mind resin stuff. I don’t have one but I think they’re interesting. I'd also like to hear about your laser cutters. I just got an xTool M1 and it’s kinda cool.
Hi
Been watching some of your vids, i saw you also have a beagle 5:39
How are things with it? Aby quirk i should know? There are better and afordable options?
My Kobra 2 Max was such a headache that I recently broke and purchased the X1C…. Anycubic seems to have major design flaws in both the Kobra 2 and Kobra 3 hotends
I’ve not seen a video from your channel in awhile, frankly, because it was becoming a tad to “sponsored”, rushed or otherwise inauthentic. This was a great video. I really appreciate the time and candor in this video. It’s clear that you are considering feedback and integrating it into your process. Cheers!
Thanks for that! Welcome back!
Im printing PETG right on a fully open printer.. the Creality Ender 3 V3 SE
I have both SLA and FDM, however I haven't had a chance to use the SLA as I still need some stuff to get going with it.
A problem I'm having with my Bambu P1S. Let's take a cube for instance. Now lets put a couple holes in it that do not go all the way through. They are not directly on top of each other but are slightly offset and separated by a 1mm wall. When I try to slice it I get a warning that there are floating areas and if I try to print it, it doesn't stick to the plate. If I enable supports it changes the object. It gets all kinds of stryations and puts supports underneath the object. What am I doing wrong and how do I correct this? I can send pics if neeced.
I bought a QIDI XMAX-3 which I saw flash by in the voron section in your video. Saw the comments below about why it wasn't included in your LTR. I think mine is fantastic, best performance of all my printers. I even have a MAKERBOT T.O.M. from 2010 (Sailfish and Replicator G USB connect) that still works and a MAKERFARM i3 12" (300mm Marlin with Slic3r and Pronterface for control USB connect) with an itty bitty dual flexstruder upgrade I put on myself. Both use 3mm filament and I have never used an SD card or USB to print a file. The QIDI is by far the easiest to use of my 5 printers and the highest quality, not to mention the speed and huge build volume. I print most of my objects with ABS so need the heated chamber. There are cool spots in the chamber but I just move the model around to avoid them. Klipper is great with the network connect. I especially like the "IRON" feature in the QIDI slicer version of slic3r. Have not noticed any maintenance issues yet - other than the fact that those 1.75mm reels seem to get eaten up quickly.
Have an older Ender 3. I need a reliable, affordable and prints up to 5”x5”x5”. Bamboo mini for me. Thanks.
Did you have any cooling issues with the panda revo hotend on the P1S? Stefan (CNC Kitchen) mentioned in his video that it is a bit longer and therefore the fan is now blowing onto the nozzle. I've noticed you have a different airduct mounted though, does it fix that?
14:13 I've had a great time printing petg on my newer A1 mini. Just a lot of thinner stringing but it works great!
Stringing may be due to wet filament. Also Bambu likes to print petg hotter than even the filament manufacturer recommendations for max temperature. Funnily it gives great results. Try it.
@@arturdobrzynski6531 my hatchbox likes it a little bit more lower temps but I'm good with the strings especially where it was printing a skull with hair so it gave it a more realistic/messy haircut lolll
But for more solid stuff I do have the dryers ready to go
AND im STILL voting for build yourself printers like the Voron😤😅
Again great video mate ! and it will for sure help some newbies choosing their path ... just have to warn all newbies to be aware of - Vorons lead down a deep deep rabbit hole 🤣💀
I built two printers. Never again. I enjoy designing, not tinkering with the printers.
@@arturdobrzynski6531 😅 what happened if i may ask ?
Fabreeko is making a kit for the prusa mk3 to convert them to core xy, that would be a nice upgrade for it
You have my attention…
A1 mini is great. How did u get the hours. I can’t find it band Bambu said u can’t. So curious how u did?
It was on the screen deep in the menus actually
I have a 350mm V2 and a V0. It's surprising how often a model will fit on the 120mm bed. I use it way more than I thought i would
Yep. I use the one at home so much
I have 1600 hours on my 300mm 2.4. Last week I had to convert from drag chains to canbus due to the harness failing
You saying the Voron was one you've had forever made me feel so old. 😂 Been here since the beginning, I guess!
You rock!
4:30 me laughing like a mad man on my Prusa MK3S+ with 305 days on it 🤣
Meanwhile....2200 hours on my Voron 2.4 350 R2 LDO kit of my own LOL.
lol yeah my hours are distributed across the 35 printers I’ve had so they are pathetic to some
@@thenextlayer nah its not pathethic, its still a lot of time print, you just sad it like it was something almost impossible to do and it made me laugh 🙃, just yesterday i found some dude have almost 690 days on his Prusa , damn that is almost ancient 🤣
Awesome video, would you recommend for a small print farm(10-20 printers) to use A1 mini over the regular A1 or a mix?
A1 probably for a farm
Hey might i ASK do you think printing your second printer IS a good choice/ IS IT even possible are there any companys that sell parts Kits and you Print the other stuff?
Yeah buddy look into VORON… I’ve built 3 on this channel. Https://jle.vi/voronkits
I emailed Microswiss and they are planning on a NG/flowtech upgrade for the SV-08. Once they have the unit they ordered. 😊 I think the SV-08 is destined to become the new Ender 3.
The Ender 3 made waves because of how accessible it is; almost everyone has enough space on their desk for one and $150.
The SV-08 is more than twice the size and more than 3x the price. It’s not nearly as accessible. Sure it’s more accessible than a X1C, but it’s larger and about the same price as a P1S.
Don’t get me wrong, the SV-08 is a significantly better printer than an Ender 3
@@TheOfficialOriginalChad I meant as in mods by the community. One person put it as the poor man’s voron 2.4. Which is not a bad thing I think it will put a more than capable machine in the hands of lots of creative people.
Siiiiick
I had to check my MK3S and it has over 1400 days on it in the last 4.5 years. Easily my most used printer followed by my Voron 2.4 and Trident. Though the Bambu A1 Mini is getting a good bit of use lately.
1400 days? That’s gotta be a typo… 140? Or 1400…
Do a Separate Resin printer and Resin Brand/type review. Very Important to see actual tested and tried data. Also a Stack Ranked List of FDM and Resin printers per your experiences.
Do you have any experience and/or thoughts on RatRig V-Core models?
I like your honesty and value your experience. I am very interested in a large format printer, but I'm on a limited budget so buying a printer I don't like would be a big problem.
I have a resin printer I have never used. Would welcome some content so I know how to use it.
I like resin for the parts that eventually come out, but I absolutely hate the process of resin printing, at least on my photon mono.
You should do toolchanger on svo8, but not sovol toolhead. I think you can replace electronicxs if needed. The frame is useful
Way ahead of you bro
@@thenextlayer Great. Vid soon?
Do you have an FLSUN S1 on the way? I do. But it's the one review I've been waiting for you to do! Seems like you don't have any Delta's either so it seems like it would be a good fit. It should be the fastest printer you have too, and the only one with remote cooling / a CPAP fan? It's just so different than all your other FDM printers that I'd love to hear your thoughts on it.
Nope they were going to send one but I never heard back
Resin content is good too. I have two resij printers and two fdm printers. I use resin for artistic detailed stuff.
I think it's funny and weird that you name all your printers. I love my 3D printers but naming them has never come to mind.
I can use my dry box with the AMS??? is that just to print a single filament like the PETG hes talking about? I need more info :P
I really appreciate the follow up here.
Please Please Please do a video of all the upgrades you have done to the X1C! Would LOVE to see that, all in one combined video. :D You mentioned upgrade of PTFE tubing etc... would love to know more! :D
Most of my “upgrades” just made it worse bro. lol.
@@thenextlayeroh, that's a bummer... 😂
I'm moderately curious about the resin printers. I have a Mars 2 Pro and have just really come to hate the stupid thing. So messy and smelly. But the quality really can be amazing, so I'd be interested to see if the process has become easier with any newer machines.
I like resin printers but the mess to clean up and the post processing and the relatability just isn’t the same as press print and get a part like FDM
How do you like the revo panda I installed it and it is working great do you mind telling me how overhangs are and I see you have a modded cooling duct is that stl available I bought the biqu duct but I think I can do better
I'm curious if you have little humidity where you live. I have a lot of humidity and was thinking that the A1 4 spool would not work for me. What do you think?
I live in Israel. 75% year round. But if you print PLA you’re fine
Would you be able to make a video about how you track your printers hours? I think a lot of people looking to get into the 3D printing business would benefit from it. Please and thank you for all the amazing content sir!
I could do a short about it it’s pretty simple they each tell you in the software
Hey Jonathan, can you plz help me out to choose between creality K1C and bambu lab A1..? I want to take it for my personal work which is bit of engineering and bit of hobby work.
Do you need to print engineering materials? If so, K1C. If not, and you’ll only print PLA and occasional PETG, or you want multicolor, A1. Feel free to use my links
the speed of prints now has me rating printer wear at meters of filament now. I.E. my old Replicator Dual has about 10K+ hours printing at 45mms-120mms but im VERY certain my Creality Sermoon D1 (Heavily modified) which has about 1,600 hours and runs at 200-250mm/s 5K (print speed) has printed about the same in just two years. Currently at about 10,000m of filament. About 330m per spool means about 30 spools, and 1 or two spools a month sounds right
Good point. 2000 hours on an X1C is like 6000 on a Prusa MK3S+
Great content, Sir.
Personally I'm not interested in Resin printing as I won't be doing it at home.
Btw.: Just got myself the second RatRig printer. A V-Core 4 - 300. Haven't started the build yet and would love to see content about it. For me my RatRig V-Core 3 is what the Voron 2.4 is for you. A highly a reliable, fast workhorse that I'm emotionally attached to.
Working on getting one myself…
Definitely would have enjoyed more commentary on your resin printers.