Taramps amps seem more geared towards high output builds with several amps or for people who do comps which they all use rca knobs mostly custom ones at that. They are better cause it can control all the amps at once if you have multiple. Rather then a single knob on each Amp.
Great video but a couple of comments: 1) You're asking for an car amp to dump serious voltage into an 11+ ohm load which is a tough ask in the car audio game. This is something that is more common in the PA world but the conversely here impedances also rise to 30-50+ ohms. For car audio most amps will run out of steam after 4-ohms and the Taramps seems to do quite well up there and absolutely smoke Korean half-bridges that are double the nominal rating. Secondly if you run an 8000W amp that will put more power up in the higher impedances but when the impedance drops to nominal levels ~1-4ohms that woofer will get absolutely smoked. 2) In general you should target putting out good power into the nominal impedance range. Impedance rise is not a bad thing, at the points where impedance rises is where your box becomes more efficient, requiring less voltage for the SPL.
I love my smart 3k. In my opinion you can't beat it for the price. I always run RCA bass knobs Plus I have a little extended cab truck so not too far to run RCA's for me but overall I give the amp an A+🔊🌪
As a Taramps dealer all I have to say is.. for the price you pay for that amp.. you're not getting a bass remote. You want a bass remote then buy an aftermarket 1 which alot of bassheads do even if their amp comes with a bass remote with their amp they typically buy a more "flashy" 1
Well can u plz tell me which one will work for my taramps smart 5k bass??I tried the pacLc1 but that was a gain control not a bass knob..And I cnt find one for this amp..its crazy I paid 565 dollars for the amp and all I get is a clip indicator..I remember when the bass knob came with it and it was the telephone jack style that hooked straight into the amp...smh..Any idea would be great appreciated..
@@cali8221run an rca bass knob, connects inline with your rcas and controls how much voltage goes through the rcas, resulting in turning up and down the power output
One great way to combat box rise is to start at a lower ohm. Wire it down to 1ohm where this amp helps combat that rise. Impedance rise has zero to do with the amplifier. If you start at 4 ohm and it doubles and if you start at 1 ohm it doubles........... Please give that 8k proper electrical or you will burn the ground traces in that amp. I strongly suggest you wire down and give that smart 3 another go. It is a phenomenal amplifier.
@@BudgetBassHead I'm not sure I'm following? The smart 3k you already have the electrical for. But the smart 3 is a voltage regulated amp that produces the same power from .5ohm(not advertised however the circuitry is proven to bode well) to 2ohm. If you wire at 4ohm nominal then you completely have gone outside the reasoning for that amp as it's impedance rise, never falls. So nominal is 4 you double right away you're at 8..... It you start at 1 and double right away you're only at 2, the amp does the same power from the get to the go. Cost is going to outweigh performance going to the 8k as the amplifier itself is 2-300 more and you need more electrical to run the 8k, agm, lithium, caps, prebuilt or diy, I guarantee you will not find better value then running that smart 3 at 1 ohm (assuming you said you are wired at 4 you have dual 4s). And the build quality and circuitry design is far superior then really a lot currently on the market. It's a giant leap forward in breaking out if the same 40+ year circuit design. Full bridge is nothing new, just the beefy components are except they are ran to their limits which leaves very little room for error, hence the rep.
@@BudgetBassHead but it is your channel, I'll watch and support you either way. I've learned a lot from you and I appreciate and thank you for that. Bass on!
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 couldn't have said better brother 😤. Very good price for constant powers at low ohm can't beat that...I'm loving my smart bass 5.
@@heavy12inchsub79 i thought about getting a couple smart 5s. I wanted to wait and see how they do. Currently looking for another twisted 3.5k or possibly 2 crecendo bc5500s Got to ask... What's the heavy 12 inch sub you got?
i run taramps bass 3k for about 2month, this amp also surprise me because im push them for about 2hour on full tind, but this amp stay cool, heatsink just only little little little warm, good job taramps 💪👍 hope my amp can last long
I have almost bought this amp several times.Just out of curiosity, more than anything. This tech is nothing new. The jl 1000/1 puts out 1000 watts at 1.5-4 ohm at 11-14.4v. But at 1$ per watt, It is not budget friendly!! Just use a rca remote knob, no biggie, just added hastle. That's how we all used to do it with eq's.
And if is the version 1 JL 1000/1 it isn't an actual bass knob. It is an eq "bass boost" knob. The version 2 and beyond have actual bass knobs. I didn't know when I bought mine. Plus the thing is so big I just swapped it out with the Sundown SFB 3000. And the JL is extremely inefficient to. Mine at 4 ohms is less than 70%.
Only reason i didnt buy this amp is because i want 3k rms no matter if its a 2 ohm 1.66 or 1 ohm load u get same power out of a smart 3k i have a audio control thats was 400 dollars hooked up to the taramps smart 3k that amp is a whole new monster now where i can precisely dial in each frequency at wbat db gain level i have input line control to raise the voltage up to 8 volts and i have a out put voltage adjustment too i have the audio control series 2 EQX MODEL AND EQL MODEL BOTH audio control units i am extremely pleased with the much improved sq with my subs 2 skar evl 12s d4s and i have some 6 by 9s on a 600 rms kenwood 4 channel so it puts out around 250 rms bridged to my 400 watt jvc 3 way 6 by 9s
@@joshholden8561 Sounds like you got it figured out. I have a pioneer deh 80prs that does all my eq. I also have bought a few skar products. Like em all!!
I would recommend taramps amps for newbies. You don't get a bass knob which sucks, but more importantly you get the clip monitor. Clipping is the #1 killer of subs and I see too many people blowing they subs up thinking the gain is a volume knob
Great video, thank you. My recent purchase of the smart bass3 by Taramps confirms the lack of bass knob, kind of a bummer but the amp replaced my Skar RP2000 (which is a workhorse). However, being able to run a single sub at .5 ohms was huge for me. The new amp woke my sub up!!!! (Harmony Audio HA-ML18 1OHM). The cable included with the amp had a clip indicator though, that's a really cool addition so you can tune your system to clipping, then add a bass knob later after setting your gain and other settings. Worked great for me, perhaps not others. Edit: This little amp, at .5 ohms is absolutely amazing. Buy it.
I'm using a single sub, so resistance was an issue for me not being able to utilize the full power potential of the amp. Pretty sure my resistance was like 8ohms, (due to box rise and the old Skar amp rated at 2ohms).
@@DerekSchimanke if you havent blown the sub yet, its either strong af or you need some proper tuning to make it blow, because that driver sure as hell wont handle 3kw of contionous this amp is certified to push out...
Another Budget Basshead Badass Video! Just want to take time to say thanks for sharing all the information over the years. Taramp is a very great product, and especially for the money. The quality is there as longevity. They've ran circles around banda, powerus, and any other full range boards. The innovation from taramp is phenomenal, and no other full range amp has even come close. Their full range bass design has been imitated by others in the form of full range lowest hz, but even so none has come close to high demand as taramp. So preference is respected, hate is expected, and being #1 is protected by the ability to accommodate and meet the demands of the consumer. I am NP143 and I approve this message. TARAMP.... FOR THE PEOPLE
Advice for some people running into a similar issue. You can always get a rca splitter/line driver like the nice one audio pipe makes for 30 bucks. 4 channel and 2 channel sub inputs and 3 outputs. Makes them all 10v and it includes a traditional style bass knob. Best of both worlds... my main advice if you’re going to do something like that though is to not be a cheap ass with the rcas... I use 8000 series stingers
Send 10v into the preamp section on 90% of amplifiers and you're going to have a blown amplifier with a popped preamp and most likely output section and possibly some burnt coils if it sends VDC.
@Travis Hamler I,m speakin on behalf of those who just cant wait n save for a better amp than a tar. I DONT like that universal bass knob myself. But but the AT or TA. CT amp comes with that actual knob nd it didnt feel loose. I would honestly compare tha amp i heard to a Rockford Power series. N again this was b4 the founder passed. Every1 says CT is garbo now. But i hav a CT 10 and its same as DD digital designs redline 600. I got the ct 2nd. For half the price. N performs pretty much the same.
N u gotta think sum of us dont just turn it up to say look at me im cool. Sum of us. drivin bumpin hole cds while blazin with no license . So the loose knob might cum in handy. C i dont use it much my E.Q has button i just tap it n it cuts the bass. My Rockford Fosgate POWER T.1000.1BD has a 2 knob box. 1 knob for gain and other is for frquency. The model only ran like 2 years.
I have this exact knob on my smart 3, I love it, and I also don't have loose feeling knob. maybe I was just lucky. but im no baller so I got to work with what i can afford lol.
I solved this problem by changing the head unit to a Pioneer. It has a crossover to adjust and find that right frequency hertz. Speaker level- feed the right power to each speaker and sub output.Can can customized 2 sound setting on equalizer. Can also turn off the subwoofer to avoid others to miss with it or help you hear only the high and mids when adjusting. So you have to disconnect the rca jack to mute the lows. Unless you have a maunel button to turn on and off the amp. There are some music that comes with that bass boost and some you got to feed more power.
Taramps came out with the Smart 3K Bass that is geared for subwoofers better. Its rated 3k RMS from .5ohm to 2 ohm. At 12.6 volts. Still no Bass knob but it does have a status and clip indicator instead
@@whoopdeedo83 Whoops, Most Taramps products are rated at 12.6 volts. My smart 3 is rated at 12.6 volts, I'd imagine they went to a higher voltage rating to accommodate 3k rms at the .5 ohm rating. I noticed the new line of MD amps are rated at 14.4 volts which kinda sucks when compared to an amp with a 12.6 rating. Amps with a 12.6 rating produce more power than amps with a 14.4 rating, essentially acting like a much larger amp. A good example of this is when @Williston audio labs, had a 3k Korean shoot out and the Orion HCCA amp that was the only 12.6 volt amp and it crushed all the other amps in power production.
If you want it done properly you get an EQ like the Clarion one and you control main volume and separate bass knob through that. Then you have a higher output signal to your amp which you'll need since the smart and bass variants only have 1 input for RCA.
Very thorough video, love the extensive bench and in-car testing. I really wish they would work on a bass remote as these amps need one bad. Keep up the great work!
RCA for the bass knob is the way it should be done. is why Tara doesnt have a phone jack. You got it. it's a good thing 'best Martha Stewart impersonation'.
I've had the smart 3 for about 9 months or so now. I just bought one of those $120 slam panda bass knobs for it. The clip indicator is very cheap and flimsy. I've broken 2 of them now. You can use 2/0 welding wire in it if you know the zip tie trick to get it in. They actually make a smart bass 3k now that makes much more sense for subwoofers. I run it at 4 ohm in my Mercedes-Benz cuz I've still got the factory 180 amp alt. But its a pretty big alt for factory so with that and my xs power xp3000, it stays very stable Voltage pushing out 2000 watts rms all day. I got them running my EVL's. All on my channel if anyone wants to see.
@@BudgetBassHead i was writing all that while watching it lol. Honestly, they put out cheap pure power, but I notice a sound quality difference. Some say differently, but its a preference thing. Its hard to explain.. I won't buy another one for that reasons. I bought it directly from taramps ebay page, they sent me a offer on some holiday for $265 (whats they costed when they first came out) so I couldn't pass it up. And sent me a t-shirt lol. And I broke my first clip indicator so they had sky high send me a free replacement. So I can't say anything bad about the company for sure!
Im running a taramps smart 3 on 2 12" evls also. Badass setup, impedence rise or not the roof, windshield, and dash shaking like crazy is more than enough to get the attention of my local police and more than half my friends refuse to get in my car lmao. Im def going to check out your channel good sir.
@@athotboy5050 yeah I haven't clamped anything. I'm running it at 4 ohm to be more stable. My benz got air suspension and all kinds of stuff I need the voltage to stay stable. But I got an alternator from JS coming soon, and make a couple runs to the back. But thanks for the comment homie!
those RCA knobs are dirty AF, why wouldn't you just use your level control on your deck? and why would you double up the connection its a mono amp, the sub woofer out from your deck is mono .... really feel like you don't know what your doing in this video
Rockford's new amps do full power at all impedance loads, I believe its to help combat box rise and give people more power at higher resistances. Impedance will always be the same, its the sub and its enclosure that creates it, the sub more than the box). Anytime the voicecoil moves in the gap, the impedance will rise - you need an amplifier that gives more power at a higher impedance load if you want to combat it, building a box to combat it will only help slightly. Sundown Audio did a great video on it a while back and shows that subs have impedance rise free air as well as in an enclosure.
what you are talking about in the beginning is called a regulated power supply. lots of amp manufacturers have this, arc audio, JL Audio "ripps", rockford has "BDCP" ect ect. nothing new.
So basically you don’t like the amp because you chose to wire up to get the minimum power output and you’re saying your enclosures pretty much suck since you can’t put the maximum output to your subwoofer without damaging it. I’ve seen a few of your videos and you talk about high impedance rise a lot but fail to realize your enclosures and high wiring are the problem of that…
EXACTLY!!!! I’m over here thinking to myself……the amp makes it’s rated power at 1-2 ohms. Not 4. Why in the world would you ever blame the amp for impedance rise issues if you already wired it out of its ohm range? This guy is gonna be pissed when he wires that md8k up at 4 ohm also and it only makes 1k SMDH. Guarantee you wire that toro to 1 ohm (I’m guessing it’s a D2 since he had it wired to 4 in the video) and that smart3 would launch that cone into orbit 🤦🏻♂️
Good info on the bass knob I just ordered this amp and was kinda bummed about that as well but atleast there is a solution. Now to cram all that wire so I can have a bass knob in this single cab chevy c10 😅
You could also use rj11 splitter for anyone that has an rj11 type level controller. In case you wanted to keep the taramps monitor and a rj11 style bass knob
That's so crazy you haven't heard of it not saying that's bad just wild, like JL and a few other brands I'm spacing on right now but it is interesting technology, idk when this was made but they've since released a smart bass 3k that's even better
@@Mr13allin agreed. You can’t be frugal and get good sounding, long lasting equipment in car audio. You’ll end up spending even more replacing garbage over and over again 🤫 looking at you Taracraps. They should come with a fire extinguisher standard lol.
It’s better to wire an RCA level type bass knob from the start. That way you can use any amplifier in the future. I wired a JL Audio bass knob permanently into my dashboard and now it won’t work with my new amplifier
@@BudgetBassHead Just make sure you get a good high-quality proven type RCA level bass knob. . Because I bought a cheap one and it sounds like crap. Completely colors the bass sound. Thank God I tested it out before installing it permanently
Feel like Taramps is doing the Aldi's approach where they do things to cut costs so the consumer can afford their products that does the job. I honestly like that approach as it creates a market for people that don't need the extras as they can provide their own somehow.
If your worried about impedance rise go with Rockford Fosgate CP amps ( Constant Power), thats what there built for, but there not cheap like the Taramps or Soundpipe , you gotta pay to play.
"BUDGET" Basshead... need he say more? If more power is needed to compensate for impedance rise then buy more power! The MD8K should satisfy his needs.
Rockford, kicker, jl audio, anything with a regulated power supply does similar, rockford calls it constant power. But for the price of the smart 3k, pretty sure not many if any have that feature. I've been burnt by a few fullbridge so they make me nervous. Seems like 1 out of 5 are faulty out of the box. Brazilian amps don't have great quality control
I would love to have the bass know too but I think the other lil clip indicators are cool..I can live with out a bass knob or jus make one..not too big of a deal
Ahhh the bass knob isn't a big deal to me, plus the universal knob is easy to run. And if I had the choice of a bass knob or the taramps remote clip light I'd take the light . But yeah Both is obviously better. I was irritated my 1200wrms pioneer gm9701d .1 I handed down to my mustang the knob wasn't a remote gain it was a bass boost, I was sour but I ended up liking it because in my car I installed it console along with a PAC gain knob next to it now I have both and I usually don't use bass boost bit when it's on a knob it's handy when I put rock or metal music I bump up the bass where it's usually lacking some without commiting to hard to get at bass boost which I never would use normally. The knobs look cool I removed the cases and installed them in my console from behind and bought pair of machined aluminum guitar knobs so they match. Fourtunatly the cab45 I have coming for my van has a remote with a clip light.
When buying from amazon you wont get no good packaging really and you dont get a warranty, If you went through a dealer it would be properly packaged and you get a full warranty,Yeah they dont come with bass knobs because he majority of the audio community uses custom bass knobs and plus Im sure most would rather see what there amp is doing since clipping and underpowering is one of the biggest things that blow amps from user error so it helps with the newbies, And the Md series is a great option I have 8 in my suburban word of advice do not use the crossovers on the amp they are limited because they wasnt designed for how we use them in the US for optimal output use a dsp or a active crossover on your deck an set to 40 to 65hz with 12 db slope anything higher than that will cause the amp to clip quicker and the subs to heat up quicker too as subs are a conductors and have a hard time dissipating heat when higher frequencies are introduced the higher the frequency the less they move equals more heat Which you probably already know but for the ones who dont Great Video Btw
Seems like a lot of connection points and potential for loss. Definitely more resistance in the signal I would guess. Gonna give it a shot though only video explaining how to do a lnob for taramps
I completely agree that TARAMPS should come standard with a bass knob. The customer should be able to control how much power is going to the subs. Great video, definitely needed this🤝
I just tested the smart3000 bass and the original clipping indicator is not as accurate as the SMD DD-1. Not sure if my amp has a factory fault or not but the DD-1 is showing some distorted signals even at gain all the way down regardless of volume. Enyone else seen this? Might it be due to the smart function? But did not want to use it due to this. I have a smart5000 I would like to check also to see if it will be the same problems on but need amp stabil under 1 ohm for the sub connected now so have not tested it to see if it has the same problem yet. But I have read that the non bass versions are better than the bass versions from taramps.
Why did you need the splitter? Why couldn't you use the red and white and plug it into red and white? I have this amp and bought the knob and am just asking for curiosity
Ok so I have 3k MD and i beat my 15 inch mofos till they was smoking ( busted now ) what would you say would be perfect for this particular amp and how would you run it.. Asking before I dive right back in..
Running an APCLE30001.D. I looked into these Taramp amps. I'm not a fan of Brazilian amps. Seen em catch fire. They're not stable. I dont understand why they're so popular. Sure it's cheap... but is it worth it? I'll stick with my A.P. amp.
Full Bridge amps are very reliable and stable its basically 2 amps strapped, 2 korean/half bridge amps strapped is basically full bridge, the only ones that catch fire are the hd series because it has a huge transformer and user error either running below 1ohm or undervoltage and once it goes that 100s of volts that has to go somewhere and the mosfets just blow If you run that amp they way its intended then you will never have a problem at all oh yeah korean amps can catch fire too with both there a chance it will and a chance it wont
I listen to a wide range of music genres/from different sources with different compression levels. Some songs may be -10db and some may be 3db. Its best to not go lower than recommended.
1-2 ohm is recommended. You doubled that to start. *wires amp at 4 ohm knowing full well it doesn’t make anywhere near rated power at anything above 2 ohm, blames amp for not making rated power 🥴🥴
I suppose blame may be the wrong word. You said it didn’t make enough power and point the finger at impedance rise. You wired it at 4 ohms. It was meant to be ran at 1-2 ohms. Before you ever turned it on you set the amp up to make far less power than it’s capable of. Don’t blame the amp for not making enough power for you when you could have very easily wired it to where it makes it’s rated power (1-2 ohms) and seen 3k plus out of it is all I’m saying
@@chazzzvosec3304 the amp was testing at all ohm ratings. I didn't put it in the video cuz I stated that it did rated power. just not enough power for me to combat impedance rise of my setup. Thanks for the comment.
does your headunit not have a subwoofer control whats the difference between the two?? I've always had a sub control so never had a use for the bass knob always got in the way for me
I been hearing mixed reviews on the smart 3 amp. I was considering either the DDM2000 M4000 or the Salt 3 amp but was told those amps are nothing special and the taramps smart 3 is better choice over the DD and the Salt amp. Jus hard to believe that the smart 3 is 249 and the other amps are way higher. I know some companies make up jus for there name but there has to be a reason they are so cheap as well as so expensive.
Hey bro, I have a Smart 3 hooked up to a B2 Audio Rage 12 V2 D2. I've only had the sub for 2 months and the amp for about 6 months now. During the first month the system played fine. I clamped about 1500W RMS going to the sub at 40Hz and dropped to about 1300W RMS at 55Hz, which is what its rated for. Now I've ran into a problem a few weeks back. The amp was clipping the shit outta my sub at 55Hz, 60Hz & 70Hz. I heard the clipping while playing music and it sounded awful. I did further testing and found that it produces almost 2x voltage at these frequencies. If I set my amp to 40V at 40Hz without a sub connected, as soon as I play a 55Hz or 60Hz test tone the voltage will jump up to about 60-70V. I've been trying so hard to understand what's going on but can't figure it out. Since you have the same amplifier on your hands would you be able to help me diagnose this issue? Would you be able to do a 30Hz to 80Hz sweep at 5Hz increments and measure the voltage at each step? I really don't know if its the amplifier that is the fault here or what because I tested my phone's output, my head unit's output and they are all behaving the same. They all spike in voltage at those 3 frequencies. I've installed many systems over the years but this is the first time I've run into an issue like this. I am stumped.
@@maxbernard5797 I did set the gain with the sub connected..... Don't you think someone that knows how to clamp test properly would know how to set the gain properly?
I just got the smart 3, but it keeps going into protect mode when I turn the volume up too much. Someone told me it could be that I have too much volts coming out of my rca’s that for these amps it shouldn’t be more than 4v how do I fix that?
Get a multi meter, disconnect the RCA's from the amplifier connect them to the voltmeter, run a 40 HZ test tone, increase head unit volume to clipping, adjust your gains to the maximum voltage allowed by manufacturers for that amplifier. Good luck.
Doesn’t audio control make a knob that hooks to the converter with a phone jack? For the ones that run inline I like install gear. It can be put in the lighter port and looks really clean
Thanks for the videos. I wish I’d seen this a few days earlier. I built a new box for an 8 and totally forgot I wanted to try a t-line after your videos about them. It turned out good but that would have been a perfect time to try one out
Im new to the channel like this week new do you have a video of you installing the lc2i? I have one and im about to run my second JL500/1 in my car just would like to see your way.....great video
Just a heads up I talked to tramps in Brazil and they told me not to use a y splitter because inside the amp its already connected to each other the in and out
Warning - if you do not have a subwoofer out on your head unit, and you only have 2 or 4 channel output, and you have split let's say the rear 2 channels, and are looking to split them to your rear two speaker channels and to your subwoofer amp - coupling the subwoofers two rca into one will turn the entire signal mono unless you have some sort of isolator. When you join the left and right channels in the split rca line, it's like completing a circuit and it will turn the entire 2 channel signal into 1 channel. So let's say you only had one 2 channel output from your unit, and you have it splitting to 2 or 3 Amps. If you joined the LR together at the subwoofer amp, you now will have an entirely 1 channel signal on the entire line going to all of your amps. Now, if your highs amp(s) have a 2 channel input and a 2 channel output to daisy chain, you could go into that, and back out to sub and then mono it there with a coupler. But that would depend on how the amp for your highs handled it's rca output. If it already sends your low end out from it, then you want to look at your low pass filter on your taramps and max it, assuming the high amp was doing a proper crossover but I doubt that it's going to be doing that, it's probably just directly putting out more or less the same signal it's being fed. However it may be an output that is isolated from the input. Try it out.
What I'm getting at is, if this taramps really does have only one rca input, you'll need to isolate it somehow. I haven't used an rca bass knob. The rca bass knob alone may isolate the signal. Could somebody who's used this amp let me know? I have only a single rca stereo signal so I can't set it up in a way that turns the signal mono. Just short of adding some sort of preamp in the mix, anyone know of an isolator that can turn stereo to mono without joining the entire line together?
Go to CT sounds/universal bass knob. Nd my opinion if u set the amp RIGHT u shouldnt need a bass knob. Especially if u got something more than a budget banger
Wait, I never knew that. So do all Taramps have this? I had a Smart3 and the ample so much current from my cars electrical system that I returned it and did not keep the app. But I used both inputs was I supposed to use only one?
For Long term solid performance you can’t go wrong with Korean board amps. Taramps should come with a fire extinguisher standard lol. Seen it too many times. Saving money isn’t worth risking a burnt down car.
I have th md8000 put a cheap knob on it it shorted out within a month I had it repaired at Sam's electronics (he did a great job) I got a better quality knob from Downforsound shop and have had no issues for 8 months
What is the name of the knob that you got. I have the PAC audio, which looks a lot like the universal ones. I haven't had any issues yet but just in case I'd be interested in checking yours out,
It was a down for sound brand bought from down for sound shop online. Pac was what I had that made everything go bad with car audio I've learned the hard way spend the cash you get what you pay for
![Taramps Smart 3 vs 6000W Sub and INSANE Amp Dyno Low Impedance Testing [4K]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xysgeUNhlHg/mqdefault.jpg)
![Taramps Smart 3 vs 6000W Sub and INSANE Amp Dyno Low Impedance Testing [4K]](/img/tr.png)
Taramps amps seem more geared towards high output builds with several amps or for people who do comps which they all use rca knobs mostly custom ones at that. They are better cause it can control all the amps at once if you have multiple. Rather then a single knob on each Amp.
taramps is just cheezy that the problem.. low quality!
@@kiiarahasnosynonyms lol
@@kiiarahasnosynonyms They’ve improved a lot since the hd series
Also I'd rather have the monitor over an bassknob I'm using an universal bassknob with the power,clip, and protection monitor attached to my bassknob
@@tcblackg35 facts
Great video but a couple of comments: 1) You're asking for an car amp to dump serious voltage into an 11+ ohm load which is a tough ask in the car audio game. This is something that is more common in the PA world but the conversely here impedances also rise to 30-50+ ohms. For car audio most amps will run out of steam after 4-ohms and the Taramps seems to do quite well up there and absolutely smoke Korean half-bridges that are double the nominal rating. Secondly if you run an 8000W amp that will put more power up in the higher impedances but when the impedance drops to nominal levels ~1-4ohms that woofer will get absolutely smoked. 2) In general you should target putting out good power into the nominal impedance range. Impedance rise is not a bad thing, at the points where impedance rises is where your box becomes more efficient, requiring less voltage for the SPL.
I love my smart 3k. In my opinion you can't beat it for the price. I always run RCA bass knobs Plus I have a little extended cab truck so not too far to run RCA's for me but overall I give the amp an A+🔊🌪
Couldn't agree more!
As a Taramps dealer all I have to say is.. for the price you pay for that amp.. you're not getting a bass remote. You want a bass remote then buy an aftermarket 1 which alot of bassheads do even if their amp comes with a bass remote with their amp they typically buy a more "flashy" 1
Right. Too simple. They could easily include one and charge for it, but they keep it budget friendly this way
Well can u plz tell me which one will work for my taramps smart 5k bass??I tried the pacLc1 but that was a gain control not a bass knob..And I cnt find one for this amp..its crazy I paid 565 dollars for the amp and all I get is a clip indicator..I remember when the bass knob came with it and it was the telephone jack style that hooked straight into the amp...smh..Any idea would be great appreciated..
Hello can u help me on which bass knob to get for me smart 5k bass
EVIDENTLY HE DOESN'T REALLY KNOW WHAT HE'S DOING BECAUSE I'M GETTING THE SMART 5 BASS AMP AND IT'S TRULY THE BEST
@@cali8221run an rca bass knob, connects inline with your rcas and controls how much voltage goes through the rcas, resulting in turning up and down the power output
You made explaining the rca base know more complicated than it need to be. Easy explanation is put the bass knob inline between radio and amp
One great way to combat box rise is to start at a lower ohm. Wire it down to 1ohm where this amp helps combat that rise. Impedance rise has zero to do with the amplifier. If you start at 4 ohm and it doubles and if you start at 1 ohm it doubles........... Please give that 8k proper electrical or you will burn the ground traces in that amp. I strongly suggest you wire down and give that smart 3 another go. It is a phenomenal amplifier.
Thanks for the info! But I'm don't think it would improve my cost/performance formula.
@@BudgetBassHead I'm not sure I'm following? The smart 3k you already have the electrical for. But the smart 3 is a voltage regulated amp that produces the same power from .5ohm(not advertised however the circuitry is proven to bode well) to 2ohm. If you wire at 4ohm nominal then you completely have gone outside the reasoning for that amp as it's impedance rise, never falls. So nominal is 4 you double right away you're at 8..... It you start at 1 and double right away you're only at 2, the amp does the same power from the get to the go.
Cost is going to outweigh performance going to the 8k as the amplifier itself is 2-300 more and you need more electrical to run the 8k, agm, lithium, caps, prebuilt or diy, I guarantee you will not find better value then running that smart 3 at 1 ohm (assuming you said you are wired at 4 you have dual 4s). And the build quality and circuitry design is far superior then really a lot currently on the market. It's a giant leap forward in breaking out if the same 40+ year circuit design. Full bridge is nothing new, just the beefy components are except they are ran to their limits which leaves very little room for error, hence the rep.
@@BudgetBassHead but it is your channel, I'll watch and support you either way. I've learned a lot from you and I appreciate and thank you for that. Bass on!
@@commonsenseisdeadin2024 couldn't have said better brother 😤. Very good price for constant powers at low ohm can't beat that...I'm loving my smart bass 5.
@@heavy12inchsub79 i thought about getting a couple smart 5s. I wanted to wait and see how they do. Currently looking for another twisted 3.5k or possibly 2 crecendo bc5500s
Got to ask... What's the heavy 12 inch sub you got?
i run taramps bass 3k for about 2month, this amp also surprise me because im push them for about 2hour on full tind, but this amp stay cool, heatsink just only little little little warm, good job taramps 💪👍 hope my amp can last long
Thanks for sharing!
@Travis Hamler yesss sir
upgrade to skar vxf 12d2 1500rms next month 👍
I have almost bought this amp several times.Just out of curiosity, more than anything.
This tech is nothing new. The jl 1000/1 puts out 1000 watts at 1.5-4 ohm at 11-14.4v. But at 1$ per watt, It is not budget friendly!!
Just use a rca remote knob, no biggie, just added hastle. That's how we all used to do it with eq's.
And if is the version 1 JL 1000/1 it isn't an actual bass knob. It is an eq "bass boost" knob. The version 2 and beyond have actual bass knobs. I didn't know when I bought mine. Plus the thing is so big I just swapped it out with the Sundown SFB 3000. And the JL is extremely inefficient to. Mine at 4 ohms is less than 70%.
Only reason i didnt buy this amp is because i want 3k rms no matter if its a 2 ohm 1.66 or 1 ohm load u get same power out of a smart 3k i have a audio control thats was 400 dollars hooked up to the taramps smart 3k that amp is a whole new monster now where i can precisely dial in each frequency at wbat db gain level i have input line control to raise the voltage up to 8 volts and i have a out put voltage adjustment too i have the audio control series 2 EQX MODEL AND EQL MODEL BOTH audio control units i am extremely pleased with the much improved sq with my subs 2 skar evl 12s d4s and i have some 6 by 9s on a 600 rms kenwood 4 channel so it puts out around 250 rms bridged to my 400 watt jvc 3 way 6 by 9s
@@joshholden8561 Sounds like you got it figured out. I have a pioneer deh 80prs that does all my eq. I also have bought a few skar products. Like em all!!
@@jondoe6618 i heard that deh 80prs is a bad ass head unit i hear alot of my friends tell me to get that head unit.
@@jondoe6618 dam u jon doe i cant find that prs 80 anywhere ppl wanting 500 dollars. For it now. Dam u jon doe i want that deck bad.
I would recommend taramps amps for newbies. You don't get a bass knob which sucks, but more importantly you get the clip monitor. Clipping is the #1 killer of subs and I see too many people blowing they subs up thinking the gain is a volume knob
You don't need a Bass knob, because you should be running it through an eq
Great video, thank you. My recent purchase of the smart bass3 by Taramps confirms the lack of bass knob, kind of a bummer but the amp replaced my Skar RP2000 (which is a workhorse). However, being able to run a single sub at .5 ohms was huge for me. The new amp woke my sub up!!!! (Harmony Audio HA-ML18 1OHM). The cable included with the amp had a clip indicator though, that's a really cool addition so you can tune your system to clipping, then add a bass knob later after setting your gain and other settings. Worked great for me, perhaps not others. Edit: This little amp, at .5 ohms is absolutely amazing. Buy it.
Why do you need 0.5ohms on such a weak sub? Thats maybe 1200wrms, what are you gaining from the low resistance?
I'm using a single sub, so resistance was an issue for me not being able to utilize the full power potential of the amp. Pretty sure my resistance was like 8ohms, (due to box rise and the old Skar amp rated at 2ohms).
@@DerekSchimanke if you havent blown the sub yet, its either strong af or you need some proper tuning to make it blow, because that driver sure as hell wont handle 3kw of contionous this amp is certified to push out...
Another Budget Basshead Badass Video! Just want to take time to say thanks for sharing all the information over the years. Taramp is a very great product, and especially for the money. The quality is there as longevity. They've ran circles around banda, powerus, and any other full range boards. The innovation from taramp is phenomenal, and no other full range amp has even come close. Their full range bass design has been imitated by others in the form of full range lowest hz, but even so none has come close to high demand as taramp. So preference is respected, hate is expected, and being #1 is protected by the ability to accommodate and meet the demands of the consumer. I am NP143 and I approve this message. TARAMP.... FOR THE PEOPLE
😄 Well spoken!
Advice for some people running into a similar issue. You can always get a rca splitter/line driver like the nice one audio pipe makes for 30 bucks. 4 channel and 2 channel sub inputs and 3 outputs. Makes them all 10v and it includes a traditional style bass knob. Best of both worlds... my main advice if you’re going to do something like that though is to not be a cheap ass with the rcas... I use 8000 series stingers
Send 10v into the preamp section on 90% of amplifiers and you're going to have a blown amplifier with a popped preamp and most likely output section and possibly some burnt coils if it sends VDC.
Pumped to see the 8k
Ct sounds knob is beast ,shows volt shows clip! N u can just turn the amp off from da knob
Thanks for the tip
@Travis Hamler I,m speakin on behalf of those who just cant wait n save for a better amp than a tar. I DONT like that universal bass knob myself. But but the AT or TA. CT amp comes with that actual knob nd it didnt feel loose. I would honestly compare tha amp i heard to a Rockford Power series. N again this was b4 the founder passed. Every1 says CT is garbo now. But i hav a CT 10 and its same as DD digital designs redline 600. I got the ct 2nd. For half the price. N performs pretty much the same.
N u gotta think sum of us dont just turn it up to say look at me im cool. Sum of us. drivin bumpin hole cds while blazin with no license . So the loose knob might cum in handy. C i dont use it much my E.Q has button i just tap it n it cuts the bass. My Rockford Fosgate POWER T.1000.1BD has a 2 knob box. 1 knob for gain and other is for frquency. The model only ran like 2 years.
Jeremiah Hodge a lot of subs are made in the same build house in China. A few components can be changed per manufacturer design.
I have this exact knob on my smart 3, I love it, and I also don't have loose feeling knob. maybe I was just lucky. but im no baller so I got to work with what i can afford lol.
I solved this problem by changing the head unit to a Pioneer. It has a crossover to adjust and find that right frequency hertz. Speaker level- feed the right power to each speaker and sub output.Can can customized 2 sound setting on equalizer. Can also turn off the subwoofer to avoid others to miss with it or help you hear only the high and mids when adjusting. So you have to disconnect the rca jack to mute the lows. Unless you have a maunel button to turn on and off the amp. There are some music that comes with that bass boost and some you got to feed more power.
Not sure if I will continue to use this remote. I may just use the remote from my DSP
Taramps came out with the Smart 3K Bass that is geared for subwoofers better. Its rated 3k RMS from .5ohm to 2 ohm. At 12.6 volts. Still no Bass knob but it does have a status and clip indicator instead
Old comment.. but the Smart Bass series amps are rated at 14.4
@@whoopdeedo83 Whoops, Most Taramps products are rated at 12.6 volts. My smart 3 is rated at 12.6 volts, I'd imagine they went to a higher voltage rating to accommodate 3k rms at the .5 ohm rating. I noticed the new line of MD amps are rated at 14.4 volts which kinda sucks when compared to an amp with a 12.6 rating. Amps with a 12.6 rating produce more power than amps with a 14.4 rating, essentially acting like a much larger amp. A good example of this is when @Williston audio labs, had a 3k Korean shoot out and the Orion HCCA amp that was the only 12.6 volt amp and it crushed all the other amps in power production.
If you want it done properly you get an EQ like the Clarion one and you control main volume and separate bass knob through that. Then you have a higher output signal to your amp which you'll need since the smart and bass variants only have 1 input for RCA.
Very thorough video, love the extensive bench and in-car testing. I really wish they would work on a bass remote as these amps need one bad. Keep up the great work!
Thanks Big Dee. You've inspired my videos over the years. We appreciate you in this community.
@@BudgetBassHead thanks! I love seeing other videos, in fact I spend most of my free time watching other TH-cam vids. You are doing an amazing job!!
Thanks for that. Its sometimes hard to to stay consistant on this hobby. Its nice to know its being appreciated.
RCA for the bass knob is the way it should be done. is why Tara doesnt have a phone jack. You got it. it's a good thing 'best Martha Stewart impersonation'.
You can get a universal bass knob that connects to the back of your stereo.
I've had the smart 3 for about 9 months or so now. I just bought one of those $120 slam panda bass knobs for it. The clip indicator is very cheap and flimsy. I've broken 2 of them now. You can use 2/0 welding wire in it if you know the zip tie trick to get it in. They actually make a smart bass 3k now that makes much more sense for subwoofers. I run it at 4 ohm in my Mercedes-Benz cuz I've still got the factory 180 amp alt. But its a pretty big alt for factory so with that and my xs power xp3000, it stays very stable Voltage pushing out 2000 watts rms all day. I got them running my EVL's. All on my channel if anyone wants to see.
Sounds like a nice setup. I'll check it out. And thanks for the tips.
@@BudgetBassHead i was writing all that while watching it lol. Honestly, they put out cheap pure power, but I notice a sound quality difference. Some say differently, but its a preference thing. Its hard to explain.. I won't buy another one for that reasons. I bought it directly from taramps ebay page, they sent me a offer on some holiday for $265 (whats they costed when they first came out) so I couldn't pass it up. And sent me a t-shirt lol. And I broke my first clip indicator so they had sky high send me a free replacement. So I can't say anything bad about the company for sure!
Im running a taramps smart 3 on 2 12" evls also. Badass setup, impedence rise or not the roof, windshield, and dash shaking like crazy is more than enough to get the attention of my local police and more than half my friends refuse to get in my car lmao. Im def going to check out your channel good sir.
@@athotboy5050 yeah I haven't clamped anything. I'm running it at 4 ohm to be more stable. My benz got air suspension and all kinds of stuff I need the voltage to stay stable. But I got an alternator from JS coming soon, and make a couple runs to the back. But thanks for the comment homie!
@@1ohmwrecker want to see your setup
The bass knob in my DSP settings works fine.
those RCA knobs are dirty AF, why wouldn't you just use your level control on your deck? and why would you double up the connection its a mono amp, the sub woofer out from your deck is mono .... really feel like you don't know what your doing in this video
He doesn't... he's using 4 Guage, when he literally said himself the amp takes 0 Guage 😂, wHy IsNt My AmP wOrKiNg GoOd 😂
Rockford's new amps do full power at all impedance loads, I believe its to help combat box rise and give people more power at higher resistances.
Impedance will always be the same, its the sub and its enclosure that creates it, the sub more than the box). Anytime the voicecoil moves in the gap, the impedance will rise - you need an amplifier that gives more power at a higher impedance load if you want to combat it, building a box to combat it will only help slightly. Sundown Audio did a great video on it a while back and shows that subs have impedance rise free air as well as in an enclosure.
Great info. Thanks
The easiest way to combat rise is to get more powerful amp
But the price difference tho😬
what you are talking about in the beginning is called a regulated power supply. lots of amp manufacturers have this, arc audio, JL Audio "ripps", rockford has "BDCP" ect ect. nothing new.
I use a bass knob on my audio control lc2i for my taramps smart 3 so in some cases there are workarounds and it works great for my Skar ZVX v2 12 d2
So you telling us that the bass knob that goes to the LC2i works for the taramps smart 3 amp?????
@@O4L.I have the lc7i and I use the bass knob it came with to control my taramp 3k
@@yasoutherncousin thanks
Nice video bro can't wait too see that taramps 8k in action 🔥🔥
You and me both!
Your the first person I seen use the right power supply on there bench 👍👌✌️💯🥂🎶
That amp looks damn near like my Stetsom amp. Glad I don't have problems with mine. Love your videos my dude.
Wow, it 'does' look like the Stetsom's? Thanks for the support.
Of course it is similar to Stetsom amplifiers, because both amplifiers are of Brazilian origin.
So basically you don’t like the amp because you chose to wire up to get the minimum power output and you’re saying your enclosures pretty much suck since you can’t put the maximum output to your subwoofer without damaging it.
I’ve seen a few of your videos and you talk about high impedance rise a lot but fail to realize your enclosures and high wiring are the problem of that…
EXACTLY!!!! I’m over here thinking to myself……the amp makes it’s rated power at 1-2 ohms. Not 4. Why in the world would you ever blame the amp for impedance rise issues if you already wired it out of its ohm range? This guy is gonna be pissed when he wires that md8k up at 4 ohm also and it only makes 1k SMDH. Guarantee you wire that toro to 1 ohm (I’m guessing it’s a D2 since he had it wired to 4 in the video) and that smart3 would launch that cone into orbit 🤦🏻♂️
This entire video is what you dont do in a car audio application 😂, 4 guage on a 3k told me everything I needed to know
Good info on the bass knob I just ordered this amp and was kinda bummed about that as well but atleast there is a solution. Now to cram all that wire so I can have a bass knob in this single cab chevy c10 😅
You could also use rj11 splitter for anyone that has an rj11 type level controller. In case you wanted to keep the taramps monitor and a rj11 style bass knob
your 4 guage wire gonna get hot asf, it fills like half the input terminal, what are you doing?
That's so crazy you haven't heard of it not saying that's bad just wild, like JL and a few other brands I'm spacing on right now but it is interesting technology, idk when this was made but they've since released a smart bass 3k that's even better
I never could really afford those other brands. Just seemed too expensive to me. Not disrespecting them. I'm just frugal
@@BudgetBassHead they’re worth every penny. Buy one and have a quality amp for life.
@@Mr13allin agreed. You can’t be frugal and get good sounding, long lasting equipment in car audio. You’ll end up spending even more replacing garbage over and over again 🤫 looking at you Taracraps. They should come with a fire extinguisher standard lol.
just get a kicker crossover with a bass knob and thats it or you can get an audiocontrol crossover with a bass knob.
I went with the sundown sia 3500 instead of the smart 3. Still happy with the choice as of now.
I've heard good things from them.
I'd like to know the differences between the SIA 3500 and the SFB 3000. I have the SFB 3000 that dynos at 3,500w.
I know yours is the upgraded version but I'd like to know specifically what was upgraded...
@@superchile9640 3700 watts at 1 ohm and 3300 at 2 ohms is the difference I believe ( I don't know what the sfb does at 2ohms)
@@Longpipejang i was more wondering about internal changes. I haven’t seen the SIA in a review
It’s better to wire an RCA level type bass knob from the start. That way you can use any amplifier in the future. I wired a JL Audio bass knob permanently into my dashboard and now it won’t work with my new amplifier
Good point!
@@BudgetBassHead Just make sure you get a good high-quality proven type RCA level bass knob. . Because I bought a cheap one and it sounds like crap. Completely colors the bass sound. Thank God I tested it out before installing it permanently
Feel like Taramps is doing the Aldi's approach where they do things to cut costs so the consumer can afford their products that does the job. I honestly like that approach as it creates a market for people that don't need the extras as they can provide their own somehow.
If your worried about impedance rise go with Rockford Fosgate CP amps ( Constant Power), thats what there built for, but there not cheap like the Taramps or Soundpipe , you gotta pay to play.
Yup. Same thing my jl audio does. But NOT a cheap amp at all!
"BUDGET" Basshead... need he say more? If more power is needed to compensate for impedance rise then buy more power! The MD8K should satisfy his needs.
I use al Alpine 207IL so the amp gain is thru my iPhone. So no need for a Bass knob even if it would be slightly more convenient song to song?
What up Dee! Another good video
I adjust mine using the sub volume on my 9 band eq. But without eq i had to run the hwy of wires.
Rockford, kicker, jl audio, anything with a regulated power supply does similar, rockford calls it constant power. But for the price of the smart 3k, pretty sure not many if any have that feature. I've been burnt by a few fullbridge so they make me nervous. Seems like 1 out of 5 are faulty out of the box. Brazilian amps don't have great quality control
User manual online if u didnt get one an i personally buy direct from taramps they come packed up better great amplifiers if used correctly
Thanks for letting us know👍
@@BudgetBassHead no problem just helping everyone out if they run into same situation
I would love to have the bass know too but I think the other lil clip indicators are cool..I can live with out a bass knob or jus make one..not too big of a deal
Very nice video man keep up the good work!!
Please feel free to reach out if you have any questions about that amplifier.
Thanks, will do!
What's more powerful between the Taramps Smart 3, the Surge Audio 4000.1, and the Deaf Bonce AAB-2900.1D?
Ahhh the bass knob isn't a big deal to me, plus the universal knob is easy to run. And if I had the choice of a bass knob or the taramps remote clip light I'd take the light . But yeah Both is obviously better. I was irritated my 1200wrms pioneer gm9701d .1 I handed down to my mustang the knob wasn't a remote gain it was a bass boost, I was sour but I ended up liking it because in my car I installed it console along with a PAC gain knob next to it now I have both and I usually don't use bass boost bit when it's on a knob it's handy when I put rock or metal music I bump up the bass where it's usually lacking some without commiting to hard to get at bass boost which I never would use normally. The knobs look cool I removed the cases and installed them in my console from behind and bought pair of machined aluminum guitar knobs so they match. Fourtunatly the cab45 I have coming for my van has a remote with a clip light.
What is in your trunk I have 2 skar elv 12's with a 2,000 watt amp and I think that impedance rise is effecting me to. Should I get a tramps 8k?
I have the VXF-12's for now. Every system is different. I would first test the impedance before making the purchase.
Use a Lc2i pro , with the amp and youll be able to use the knob.
The taramp rca input is a loop you can hook up one or both it dosent matter
When buying from amazon you wont get no good packaging really and you dont get a warranty, If you went through a dealer it would be properly packaged and you get a full warranty,Yeah they dont come with bass knobs because he majority of the audio community uses custom bass knobs and plus Im sure most would rather see what there amp is doing since clipping and underpowering is one of the biggest things that blow amps from user error so it helps with the newbies, And the Md series is a great option I have 8 in my suburban word of advice do not use the crossovers on the amp they are limited because they wasnt designed for how we use them in the US for optimal output use a dsp or a active crossover on your deck an set to 40 to 65hz with 12 db slope anything higher than that will cause the amp to clip quicker and the subs to heat up quicker too as subs are a conductors and have a hard time dissipating heat when higher frequencies are introduced the higher the frequency the less they move equals more heat Which you probably already know but for the ones who dont Great Video Btw
Well good thing taramps makes a bass knob for there amps now
Seems like a lot of connection points and potential for loss. Definitely more resistance in the signal I would guess. Gonna give it a shot though only video explaining how to do a lnob for taramps
Nice video . Great explanation🔥
Glad you liked it!
I think I need a Taramps rca’d up to my brain so that I can keep up with you! Great stuff bro! Subd 4 life, peace out..:)
Welcome to the channel
TY for sharing your wisdom and expertise and for all the hard work involved in getting your videos to us, love your style!!!
Why are so many people so worried about a damn bass knob?
I think it's like if you don't get the cool stickers too 🤔😂
Get the smart 3 mono block.. it has bass switch
Thanks for letting us know
Could have used an acr1 from audio control !
Great, video my man, vary informative.
Glad you liked it!
I completely agree that TARAMPS should come standard with a bass knob. The customer should be able to control how much power is going to the subs. Great video, definitely needed this🤝
No after market is better
@@Hernandez209p I cnt even find one for me taramp smart 5k bass
Im dying laughing when he pulled his baes knob out. LMFAO. That sht looks so funny bro hahahaha
😄
I'm about to install a smart 3 .If I buy an epicenter with a dual knob will that work?
I just tested the smart3000 bass and the original clipping indicator is not as accurate as the SMD DD-1. Not sure if my amp has a factory fault or not but the DD-1 is showing some distorted signals even at gain all the way down regardless of volume. Enyone else seen this? Might it be due to the smart function? But did not want to use it due to this. I have a smart5000 I would like to check also to see if it will be the same problems on but need amp stabil under 1 ohm for the sub connected now so have not tested it to see if it has the same problem yet. But I have read that the non bass versions are better than the bass versions from taramps.
gets impedance rise, well this doesnt make enough power, WHY DONT YOU WIRE IT DOWN TO 2 OHMS??
Hello I have a quick question I see you have a impala and I have one to is one of the amps a four channel if so how did you bypass the factory amp.
What do you use to use car audio at home what to you use to turn on the car audio on
Thats coming in an upcoming video. Stay tuned.
Can I use a taramps remote in this amp instead of the clip monitor 🤔
Why did you need the splitter? Why couldn't you use the red and white and plug it into red and white? I have this amp and bought the knob and am just asking for curiosity
Are your door speakers able to keep up with what you have in the trunk?
Ok so I have 3k MD and i beat my 15 inch mofos till they was smoking ( busted now ) what would you say would be perfect for this particular amp and how would you run it.. Asking before I dive right back in..
Skar audio vxf lineup
Running an APCLE30001.D. I looked into these Taramp amps. I'm not a fan of Brazilian amps. Seen em catch fire. They're not stable. I dont understand why they're so popular. Sure it's cheap... but is it worth it? I'll stick with my A.P. amp.
Full Bridge amps are very reliable and stable its basically 2 amps strapped, 2 korean/half bridge amps strapped is basically full bridge, the only ones that catch fire are the hd series because it has a huge transformer and user error either running below 1ohm or undervoltage and once it goes that 100s of volts that has to go somewhere and the mosfets just blow If you run that amp they way its intended then you will never have a problem at all oh yeah korean amps can catch fire too with both there a chance it will and a chance it wont
I ain't know Steve Harvey had a car audiopipe channel
Why not wire the sub to a lower ohm to counteract the independence rise?
I listen to a wide range of music genres/from different sources with different compression levels. Some songs may be -10db and some may be 3db. Its best to not go lower than recommended.
1-2 ohm is recommended. You doubled that to start. *wires amp at 4 ohm knowing full well it doesn’t make anywhere near rated power at anything above 2 ohm, blames amp for not making rated power 🥴🥴
@@chazzzvosec3304 when did I blame the amp? The amp plays just fine.
I suppose blame may be the wrong word. You said it didn’t make enough power and point the finger at impedance rise. You wired it at 4 ohms. It was meant to be ran at 1-2 ohms. Before you ever turned it on you set the amp up to make far less power than it’s capable of. Don’t blame the amp for not making enough power for you when you could have very easily wired it to where it makes it’s rated power (1-2 ohms) and seen 3k plus out of it is all I’m saying
@@chazzzvosec3304 the amp was testing at all ohm ratings. I didn't put it in the video cuz I stated that it did rated power. just not enough power for me to combat impedance rise of my setup. Thanks for the comment.
I got one hookup to 8 12 inch subs BANGING!!! 1000%
Basehead i noticed you have two auidopipe amps, what are they hooked up to.
Thanks for a new video
Alpine and fosgate been had this technology
does your headunit not have a subwoofer control whats the difference between the two?? I've always had a sub control so never had a use for the bass knob always got in the way for me
No my head unit is stock with dedicated subwoofer amplifier. Besides, I like to feel and control of the knob.
So we can’t get a adapter & have both ?
Why not just add the acr1 bass knob to the lc2i and not have to mess with all that?
Can you run a 15 American bass xfl at 1ohm?
I been hearing mixed reviews on the smart 3 amp. I was considering either the DDM2000 M4000 or the Salt 3 amp but was told those amps are nothing special and the taramps smart 3 is better choice over the DD and the Salt amp. Jus hard to believe that the smart 3 is 249 and the other amps are way higher. I know some companies make up jus for there name but there has to be a reason they are so cheap as well as so expensive.
Hey bro, I have a Smart 3 hooked up to a B2 Audio Rage 12 V2 D2. I've only had the sub for 2 months and the amp for about 6 months now. During the first month the system played fine. I clamped about 1500W RMS going to the sub at 40Hz and dropped to about 1300W RMS at 55Hz, which is what its rated for. Now I've ran into a problem a few weeks back. The amp was clipping the shit outta my sub at 55Hz, 60Hz & 70Hz. I heard the clipping while playing music and it sounded awful. I did further testing and found that it produces almost 2x voltage at these frequencies. If I set my amp to 40V at 40Hz without a sub connected, as soon as I play a 55Hz or 60Hz test tone the voltage will jump up to about 60-70V. I've been trying so hard to understand what's going on but can't figure it out. Since you have the same amplifier on your hands would you be able to help me diagnose this issue? Would you be able to do a 30Hz to 80Hz sweep at 5Hz increments and measure the voltage at each step? I really don't know if its the amplifier that is the fault here or what because I tested my phone's output, my head unit's output and they are all behaving the same. They all spike in voltage at those 3 frequencies. I've installed many systems over the years but this is the first time I've run into an issue like this. I am stumped.
You need to set the gain with subs connected. Did you not read the manual?
@@maxbernard5797 I did set the gain with the sub connected..... Don't you think someone that knows how to clamp test properly would know how to set the gain properly?
true ok my bad
@@maxbernard5797 No worries
I just got the smart 3, but it keeps going into protect mode when I turn the volume up too much. Someone told me it could be that I have too much volts coming out of my rca’s that for these amps it shouldn’t be more than 4v how do I fix that?
Get a multi meter, disconnect the RCA's from the amplifier connect them to the voltmeter, run a 40 HZ test tone, increase head unit volume to clipping, adjust your gains to the maximum voltage allowed by manufacturers for that amplifier. Good luck.
@@BudgetBassHead is there a video on how to do that? I really don’t know anything about that
Doesn’t audio control make a knob that hooks to the converter with a phone jack? For the ones that run inline I like install gear. It can be put in the lighter port and looks really clean
Thats nice. Thanks for the tips
Thanks for the videos. I wish I’d seen this a few days earlier. I built a new box for an 8 and totally forgot I wanted to try a t-line after your videos about them. It turned out good but that would have been a perfect time to try one out
Im new to the channel like this week new do you have a video of you installing the lc2i? I have one and im about to run my second JL500/1 in my car just would like to see your way.....great video
Coming soon! I an 'audio accessory' video in the works.
@@BudgetBassHead kool thanks man
Bro how many channels do you have 👀👀 any crown Vic’s system builds?
No crown vics. I drive Impala
Just a heads up I talked to tramps in Brazil and they told me not to use a y splitter because inside the amp its already connected to each other the in and out
I have an Orion xtr2500.1dz and tossed the bass knob in the trash ot came with was plastic junk. I use my line driver/crossover bass knob
Is there a way to check impedance raise with a multimeter? Without a dd1?
Sure, that's one of the original ways of doing it. Just a bit timely and mathematical. For non-professionals, that is more cost effective.
Warning - if you do not have a subwoofer out on your head unit, and you only have 2 or 4 channel output, and you have split let's say the rear 2 channels, and are looking to split them to your rear two speaker channels and to your subwoofer amp - coupling the subwoofers two rca into one will turn the entire signal mono unless you have some sort of isolator. When you join the left and right channels in the split rca line, it's like completing a circuit and it will turn the entire 2 channel signal into 1 channel. So let's say you only had one 2 channel output from your unit, and you have it splitting to 2 or 3 Amps. If you joined the LR together at the subwoofer amp, you now will have an entirely 1 channel signal on the entire line going to all of your amps. Now, if your highs amp(s) have a 2 channel input and a 2 channel output to daisy chain, you could go into that, and back out to sub and then mono it there with a coupler. But that would depend on how the amp for your highs handled it's rca output. If it already sends your low end out from it, then you want to look at your low pass filter on your taramps and max it, assuming the high amp was doing a proper crossover but I doubt that it's going to be doing that, it's probably just directly putting out more or less the same signal it's being fed. However it may be an output that is isolated from the input. Try it out.
What I'm getting at is, if this taramps really does have only one rca input, you'll need to isolate it somehow. I haven't used an rca bass knob. The rca bass knob alone may isolate the signal. Could somebody who's used this amp let me know? I have only a single rca stereo signal so I can't set it up in a way that turns the signal mono. Just short of adding some sort of preamp in the mix, anyone know of an isolator that can turn stereo to mono without joining the entire line together?
Go to CT sounds/universal bass knob. Nd my opinion if u set the amp RIGHT u shouldnt need a bass knob. Especially if u got something more than a budget banger
I play music from different sources, with different level of compression(quality) sometimes things need adjusting.
So why was the f/m Y used to connect into the amp instead of just connecting both red and white right into the amp?
I was wondering the same thing
These amps have a single mono input the other is an output for going to a second amplifier. Same with Soundigital and Banda and other Brazilian amps.
Wait, I never knew that. So do all Taramps have this? I had a Smart3 and the ample so much current from my cars electrical system that I returned it and did not keep the app. But I used both inputs was I supposed to use only one?
They have a rca bass knob now!!
why did you use that last spliter two to one .why didnt you just plug in the two rca's
For Long term solid performance you can’t go wrong with Korean board amps. Taramps should come with a fire extinguisher standard lol. Seen it too many times. Saving money isn’t worth risking a burnt down car.
I have th md8000 put a cheap knob on it it shorted out within a month I had it repaired at Sam's electronics (he did a great job) I got a better quality knob from Downforsound shop and have had no issues for 8 months
What is the name of the knob that you got. I have the PAC audio, which looks a lot like the universal ones. I haven't had any issues yet but just in case I'd be interested in checking yours out,
It was a down for sound brand bought from down for sound shop online. Pac was what I had that made everything go bad with car audio I've learned the hard way spend the cash you get what you pay for
I agree on the bass knob. They should have a output for it.