Installing a dome security camera on an exterior block wall
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 พ.ค. 2024
- How I installed an exterior security camera on the rear block wall at my new studio, and wired it up with PoE into my Raspberry Pi Frigate NVR.
Some of the things I mentioned (some links are affiliate links):
- Hikvision 2MP Dome camera: amzn.to/3S8o2Kv
- Video where I set up my Pi Frigate NVR: • I Spy, with my Little ...
- PC110 WMS Wall Mount Bracket for Dome camera: amzn.to/4b6UyDs
- PC110 WMS Back Box for Dome Camera Bracket: amzn.to/3xK2tIo
- Duct Seal: amzn.to/4bsiSQz
- DeWalt 20V Max Rotary Hammer: amzn.to/4aMBjzq
- Wire fish rods (I wish I had): amzn.to/3w7aRRT
- 500 ft StarTech.com Cat5e Plenum Cable: amzn.to/3QhxTME
- Gator Frameworks Patch Cable Holder: amzn.to/3QjUzfj
- TRENDnet Shielded RJ45 Keystone Jacks: amzn.to/4bbiZzw
- Neat Patch Mini 1U Cable Management Unit: amzn.to/3U7YD3o
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Contents:
00:00 - Dome camera mount
00:29 - Running Cat5e through the plenum
01:49 - Mounting the exterior box
05:19 - Fishing the wire
08:20 - Sealing the hole
09:30 - Camera assembly and prep
10:46 - Mounting the camera
11:47 - Routing the cable into the network rack
13:36 - Patching and labeling
14:56 - It works! - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
You closed everything up AND cleaned before checking that the camera worked? You're a braver man than me sir lol.
Ha! I did reset the camera on my test bench before recording this video, so I knew it would work, and it was configured for my network :)
Just an FYI: that “A-frame” ladder IS an extension ladder. That’s the really cool thing about those Little Giant style ladders.
True, true, but a very unwieldy one when used in that configuration, quite top-heavy. I have used it that way in a pinch.
A good comedy moment would have been the building owner driving by and shouting, "what in tarnation is going on here!"
Hey Jeff, consider wearing a dust mask next time you're drilling into brick or concrete. They contain silica which can lead to silicosis if inhaled.
Hint for pulling cable in ceilings, get a small remote control car (really a model army tank), tie a string onto the car, open a panel at the destination and origination and drive it from one end to the other, then use the string to pull the cables. We used to do that at one company when running cable on weekends in our building. We just drove it from one end to the other and let the car/tank fall through the hole.
Haha that sounds fun! Only downside is the tiles at this place are fiberglass (better for sound) and a little flimsy. It'd have to be a fairly lightweight car/RC.
@@Level2Jeff That guy did use a small (under 2 lb) car, but they were available cheap a RaidoShack or WMT back in the day in the toy section.
@@Level2Jeff Apart from solid plastic ones, aren't all ceiling tiles flimsy? I've broken so many of them by only grabbing them with one hand.
@@Shocker99 Standard tiles (at least traditionally) were fiberboard or lightweight gypsum, and have a tiny bit of rigidity... the ones in this studio have a thick paper-ish face, then thin layers of fiberglass insulation, and will bend if you just hold it on a side. The gypsum ones would flake apart if you did the same, but they would break cleanly.
They're all a bit different in how they hold up, and how they flex!
I'm sure you know this, but that ladder your using is both a A-Frame Ladder & Extention Ladder... Those ladders are super handy! THE MOST STURDY EXTENSION LADDER OUT THERE....
Just push the two things on the top of the letter in as you would if you were opening the ladder, but after you have it in the A-frame position push them again and unfold completely into an extension ladder. Then you can adjust the length by adjusting the legs in and out on both sides.
True, true. It's not quite as easy to maneuver in that configuration, I wasn't clear in the video on that. The nice thing with the separate ladders is you can get this A-frame *very* stable at most heights, but it gets a bit annoying (and scary IMO) when you extend it close to full extension for a 2-story job, something like that.
It's great in a pinch, though-and I did use it to get on the roof and swap out some HVAC filters. Plus, it fits inside the van, which the extension ladder does *not*!
I use that type ladder all the time,so you should have use it in the open config.
Good job on the install, you handled the challenges well. One note on the desiccant, you don't need to replace it, but you can "recharge" it. To recharge it simply bake it in an oven on a cookie sheet for a few hours at 200-250F to remove any moisture it has already absorbed.
i am always amazed to see that people in the us still lay cat5 cable, her in germany we just lay double shielded cat 7 cable even if the patchpanel is only cat 6 or 6a and that is since at least 2010 thats how long i´ve been an electrician, if done absolutly to code then you even lay it in flexible conduit from start to end so that you can switch it out later if damaged or upgrading fiber.
And yes i know it is not necessary to use cat7 but this way you can do almost anything with it and don´t have to pull a new cable when switching to 10gb or such, also if everyone uses that kind of cable it becomes cheaper for everyone
Money saving today vs money saving over the operation of the item. How long will Cat5 remain relevant vs will we ever use Cat7.
The reason that one tile was fighting you was probably the steel wire the grid hangs on. It's hard to bend, so installers can't get the loops out of the way of the tile, completely. Said installers are also typically not the ones that install the tile, so it doesn't matter to them. I used to do electrical work, and I absolutely hated working in places with dropped ceilings, for this very reason.
Yep, or when you’ve got HVAC unit or a sprinkler pipe 3/4” above the tile.. that said I’ll take ceiling tiles over drywall drop ceilings any day - pulling pot lights and cutting in access panels gets old quick!
temperature where i live can swing from -30c to +40c during the year with a huge range of humidity, I put some dielectric grease in the connection outside to make it safer, you dont want that part to rust and it's cheap to apply. i got my security camera with that for >5 years now
I like this type of content Jeff. Very entertaining.
Well done sir. Very professional install!
Hearing protection is your friend when using a hammer drill. No way to fix hearing loss.
WHAT?!
I know they're cheap. Please don't use them any more, haha. You already see their build quality with the broken screw holes. I recommend Hanwha Wisenet cameras.
When I'm installing cameras, I don't take the plastic off the domes until I'm not ready to touch the camera any more. Keeps the dome perfectly clean and scratch free. A note about 'plenum' wire; it's only required in spaces that are used for 'air handling.' If your return air vents in the ceiling are just openings that are not connected to any ductwork, then your ceiling space is a plenum. if all supply and return air vents are connected to ductwork, you do not need plenum cable. There is, of course, no rule against going above and beyond and using it is fine in either case. If you're looking for waterproof wire you need OSP or direct burial.
Hey Jeff, just a suggestion, I don't know if the brand of a-frame ladder you have supports this, but Little Giant's do; you can extend the A-frame into an extension and get the best of both worlds. - sorry, I didn't read the other comments, several others noted the same thing.
Heh yep :D
May I ask what brand and model of rj45 crimper you recently bought? Apparently finding a good one is not a piece of cake..
I have recetly installed 24 cameras on a hikvision system.
I dont trust their software a lot so in my case I have a separate VLAN and dns and NTP queries are forwarded to a specific machine that acts as a gateway to the internet for NTP.
Unfortunatly I've see a very fast drift on the clocks even on brand new cameras.... so this was a quick solution post install solution.
I have noticed the clock drift is a bit worse than other cameras I disconnect. I may set up a Raspberry Pi as a little NTP server on the camera VLAN to compensate (would rather not have any kind of firewall rule allowing them to communicate to the outside Internet!).
Another thing I considered is burning in the timestamp through frigate/ffmpeg instead of using the camera's timestamp. It would also take away that ugly blocky font effect.
@@Level2Jeff yeah no rule to the internet just forward all DNS and NTP to my server to reply to the request.
Fully isolated from the internet. Only the server have connections to provide NTP to the cameras.
Yup, the clock drift on Hikvision IP-cams is bad and it doesn't have a back-up RTC battery so it will reset to year 2000 (or something) should it lose power/reset. There is an NTP polling time interval setting in it. The time will only get fixed after that polling interval had elapsed. I setup an NTP server with a couple NICs with one interface inside the VLAN of the cams, and the other interface connecting to an upstream NTP server/internet access. That way, I could afford to set the cams to poll NTP every minute and not worry about abusing/DDOS the upstream NTP servers.
@@Level2Jeff any burned in timestamp needs to be accurate, and be provided by the camera or the recorder itself during video export, for the video to pass muster as evidence in court (without a fight) Better to just not have the timestamp present in the video at all and rely on the export. running ffmpeg on it /could/ be considered tampering and render the whole video useless. Consult with a lawyer. I always advise using the export option that wraps the video in the executable player package of the system in use, so that it can be loaded and viewed on any PC with all the metadata that is included with the system.
Looking at @11:19 ... I'd say that gutter to your right is in need of some sealant or other attention, based on the streaks on the wall.
probably blocked up downspout and the gutter is overflowing, I'll bet.
Fancy way to make sure you dont drill too far in.
Isnt the proper way to have a like 16mm conduit in the wall so that the cable doesnt produce any moisture inside the concrete wall from going from warm inside to cold outside in the winter?
he's got a plug of sealant around the penetration, so it's not going to be an issue.
Add some sealant, Sika 1a can be an option at the top of the plastic box in the joint between the box and the wall, also in the screw holes, so on heavy rain you dont will have water on the box, remember water always find a way.
As is a long run box, covering the screw holes and the screws can be an option.
I've considered adding at least a bead across the top, but I saw mixed feelings about that at least reading around IP cams and other camera install sites; some people like having added layers, others don't.
There will definitely be moisture even if no deluge of water, and if the gutter above ever breaks... there will be a deluge :D
@@Level2Jeff It's not a bad idea to put a bead of silicone on the top and sides. It doesn't have to be excessive, and you don't want it to be watertight on the bottom so the water that does get in there has a place to go. The camera 'system' doesn't care about the box being watertight but it will be a problem if it fills up with water, the silicone is mainly to keep water and bugs out from the building itself.
The included anchors i will near use them again. They rust.
11mm bolts
Oh zinc plated screws outside will rust
wheres that pi nvr vid
(had to click show more, lul)
I insist on calling them hicky-vision. I had a handful of the 3MP version of these but didn't feel like dealing with their supposed security risk they pose.
I say hike-vision (like 'take a hike') lol
Seriously never face away from you ladder
Great job. Another suggestion, consider a Reolink Doorbell camera on the wall next to your door. You may not need/want the doorbell element, but at $100 they make a great very low profile wide angle camera to see if anyone is hanging about your rear door... I've used them all over the outside of my house, cheap, good quality and integrate perfectly with HA and all NAS's...
Let it never be said that we tech nerds don't do manly work.
Recommended to leave some slack cable (service loop) from trunking (or in roof space) to patch panel just in case. Nice video though, well done.
Yep! I had about 5' service loop at the side by the camera (exterior) and about 10' service loop up in the ceiling above the drop to the network rack. Always leave a service loop or you'll curse yourself later :D
No hearing protection while using hammer drill, ladder too far away from the job and standing on the wrong side of the ladder.
Is it just me or people like to crimp network cables while balancing on top of ladders?
Running a hammer drill with no mask and no hearing protection...sigh.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Irrigation. STOP using that term for everything water...
You have to irrigate the fire. How else is it going to get watered?