I totally wouldn't mind you becoming a 3D printing channel. Once you've fallen into the rabbit hole, it's quite nice down here…. and an up-to-date video about Octoprint/Octopi would totally gel with your other content.
I almost laughed out loud when @level2jeff said he didn’t want to get addicted to 3d printing while standing in front of a dedicated 3d printing table with 3 printers.
Prusa support is still on of the best customer service experiences I’ve had with electronics so far. Having said that, I shouldn’t have needed to contact support if the mmu2 was designed just a smidge better. I have a strong preference for prusa printers, but not for the first batch of new models 😊
Nooooooo!!! lol I have thought for half a second about building up a rack system for the printers, with space for one or two huge printers below. But I just can't. I won't!
Nice review! You mentioned the bambulab had no way of doing everything on the machine with usb and a bad display. To solve that big tree tech has made the panda touch thats an upgraded touch screen that is compatible with any bambu and in the future klipper. It can also control multiple printers at once.
Nice work, Jeff! There's no reason for you not to consider yourself a "maker" channel. A lot of your content already crosses into that territory. Incidentally thanks for sharing about your health experiences, I've been through similar, and it's something nobody talks about, even though it's more common than many realize.
So many cool ideas to try out now, like making a daughter board "pi board" fit inside an older PC with printed brackets. Kinda like a VM... You have so many projects, its crazy to think how far down the rabbit hole you can go with it. Or print your own brackets for an embedded ROKU PC TV of your own design.
The x1 carbon I believe gets the touch screen screen, and I just bought one for my P1S, also I just picked up a smooth bed, and they are pretty affordable :) Prussa from what I hear makes some amazing printers as well! hope you enjoy!
@@Level2Jeff But remember that printer operates best (and fastest) if it has g-code on usb. With OctoPrint and printing from it prints are sent over slow 115200 serial (ascii gcode line by line), loosing some features (power loss recovery). So figure out solution for timelapses (can be OctoPrint) but print from usb still. Unfortunately MK4 firmware is still behind MK3S firmware in terms of serial commands and serial reporting support (OctoPrint to start timelapse recording automatically for USB initiated print needs to know when such print starts and ends).
just a head up, the silver USB sticks prusa send out have an abnormally high failure rate and is worth replacing if you do plan on any long prints from usb as when it fails you print fails too. No idea why they're so unreliable but it's been going on for several years, I assume they're working through a massive stockpile of them. For what its worth in terms of desk movement it _shouldn't_ matter but does for some printers if they've got a weak frame. Any decent printer should litteralyl let you pick it up and turn it upside down and have no issues but it's very dependant on it having a solid frame. For the benchy line if you search up "Benchy hull line" its a common issue and one you wont be able to overcome, you can get it to look like less of an issue but its due to it being the line where the hull meets the floor. Screen wise if you're going to stick with the P1 I'd look at getting the additional screen by bigtreetech, its a bit of a gamechanger
man congrats on the prusa. I was so happy with my used mk3s+ purchase I upgraded it to a mk3.5 I have a ton of 3d printers but my prusa is by far my favorite.
I think the LED on the bed only means that the heater is on, not necessarily that the bed is hot. I think once the bed gets to temperature, that LED would turn off.
@@Level2Jeff I might be wrong. I caught a glimpse of that LED in the benchy print montage and it was on. I only have a MK3 so it might be different for the MK4. Or the bed might have a PWM heating mode to maintain the temperature during the print so the LED would appear on whenever it maintains the temperature.
@@jameswarnock5655a thermistor or other temp probe on the underside could be set up to a temp gauge, light or otherwise, too. (The idea of custom printer mods is a fun thought)
I saw your Piz Dispenser at the Charlotte Microcenter, so I know you were there. Unfortunately the rope was broken off 😢 Coincidentally I was there to buy a Pi Pico.
That tuning and looking for errors is something that should not happen at that price point. Unfortunately it seems to be not that uncommon with prusa printers.
The culprit has been found at the end of the video. A grub screw had come loose during shipping. This is hard to prevent unless you glue everything in place. However, this in turn would limit the repairability.
Uh, so quality control isn't best, still. Touch screen functionality is only available with recent firmwares (but knob is a way nicer to operate I think) . btw satin sheet is the best on Prusa printers.
Good to know; and in terms of QC, I'm guessing the set screw was fine at the factory, it just slowly worked its way out (the shipper delivered it to me on the box's back, lol). But it might be nice to take little things like this into consideration for future builds-a dab of loctite at the factory would probably end that issue.
Printing with an AC is not optimal, the AC turns on and off and changes the temperature in waves... might be the reason for the wierd layers... anyway, just something i noticed when i print with AC on with an open printer.
Yeah; I did have first layer issues on my Ender 3 (old V2) when I didn't have it in an enclosure-but it turned out that set screw was the whole problem on the MK4. It's since printed a few bigger prints with no issue with HVAC on. I have the printers in an area that doesn't get too much airflow, but is regulated around 74-80°F through the day. That seems to be an acceptable range at least for PLA to not have problems.
Also, it should not be hard to filter the AC noise out in the video editor. Da Vinci resolve has it built in in recent versions but I have used a VST plugin for it in the past. You train it on the noise then select the range over which to remove the noise.
an assembled printer at this pricepoint shouldn’t need all the tuning you had to do, i bet josef prusa now regrets sending you one for free #backfire An Ender 3 produced a better benchy!
I totally wouldn't mind you becoming a 3D printing channel. Once you've fallen into the rabbit hole, it's quite nice down here…. and an up-to-date video about Octoprint/Octopi would totally gel with your other content.
Definitely! That may wind up on the main channel. We'll see.
There are enough 3D printing channels 😭
As someone without a 3D printer, I have to say, for a non-3D printer channel, you have quite a lot of 3D printers pretty quickly.
Heh don't feed the addiction!
I almost laughed out loud when @level2jeff said he didn’t want to get addicted to 3d printing while standing in front of a dedicated 3d printing table with 3 printers.
@@traxeonic3600 Stage 1: Denial.
Prusa support is still on of the best customer service experiences I’ve had with electronics so far. Having said that, I shouldn’t have needed to contact support if the mmu2 was designed just a smidge better.
I have a strong preference for prusa printers, but not for the first batch of new models 😊
Jeff: "I'm not a 3D printing channel"
1 month later: Jeff builds a print farm
Nooooooo!!! lol
I have thought for half a second about building up a rack system for the printers, with space for one or two huge printers below. But I just can't. I won't!
@@Level2Jeff Why not? :D I'm sure you could use it for even more great content.
I love my MK4, built it from the kit. It was my first printer and I was very glad I chose this printer.. it seems to just work!
Nice review! You mentioned the bambulab had no way of doing everything on the machine with usb and a bad display. To solve that big tree tech has made the panda touch thats an upgraded touch screen that is compatible with any bambu and in the future klipper. It can also control multiple printers at once.
Nice work, Jeff! There's no reason for you not to consider yourself a "maker" channel. A lot of your content already crosses into that territory. Incidentally thanks for sharing about your health experiences, I've been through similar, and it's something nobody talks about, even though it's more common than many realize.
So many cool ideas to try out now, like making a daughter board "pi board" fit inside an older PC with printed brackets. Kinda like a VM... You have so many projects, its crazy to think how far down the rabbit hole you can go with it. Or print your own brackets for an embedded ROKU PC TV of your own design.
The x1 carbon I believe gets the touch screen screen, and I just bought one for my P1S, also I just picked up a smooth bed, and they are pretty affordable :) Prussa from what I hear makes some amazing printers as well! hope you enjoy!
0:53 that kinda answers my question from yesterday, only wish i watched this first before that one
I really really like the 3D Printer/Printing Content lately!
Would it be possible to get potentional timelapses on the prints in the future?
I am going to set up OctoPrint on these printers soon, and will hopefully get it set up for timelapses on pretty much all future prints!
@@Level2Jeff But remember that printer operates best (and fastest) if it has g-code on usb. With OctoPrint and printing from it prints are sent over slow 115200 serial (ascii gcode line by line), loosing some features (power loss recovery). So figure out solution for timelapses (can be OctoPrint) but print from usb still. Unfortunately MK4 firmware is still behind MK3S firmware in terms of serial commands and serial reporting support (OctoPrint to start timelapse recording automatically for USB initiated print needs to know when such print starts and ends).
just a head up, the silver USB sticks prusa send out have an abnormally high failure rate and is worth replacing if you do plan on any long prints from usb as when it fails you print fails too. No idea why they're so unreliable but it's been going on for several years, I assume they're working through a massive stockpile of them.
For what its worth in terms of desk movement it _shouldn't_ matter but does for some printers if they've got a weak frame. Any decent printer should litteralyl let you pick it up and turn it upside down and have no issues but it's very dependant on it having a solid frame.
For the benchy line if you search up "Benchy hull line" its a common issue and one you wont be able to overcome, you can get it to look like less of an issue but its due to it being the line where the hull meets the floor.
Screen wise if you're going to stick with the P1 I'd look at getting the additional screen by bigtreetech, its a bit of a gamechanger
BTT is amazing, love how many addons they have to make 3D printing better
man congrats on the prusa. I was so happy with my used mk3s+ purchase I upgraded it to a mk3.5 I have a ton of 3d printers but my prusa is by far my favorite.
Awesome content! I think the Prusa and their open source mind fits you the best. Hope you have lots of fun with the printers!
I think the LED on the bed only means that the heater is on, not necessarily that the bed is hot. I think once the bed gets to temperature, that LED would turn off.
Interesting... in that case I wish they'd have it on whenever the bed heater is on and/or it is hot!
@@Level2Jeff I might be wrong. I caught a glimpse of that LED in the benchy print montage and it was on. I only have a MK3 so it might be different for the MK4. Or the bed might have a PWM heating mode to maintain the temperature during the print so the LED would appear on whenever it maintains the temperature.
@@jameswarnock5655a thermistor or other temp probe on the underside could be set up to a temp gauge, light or otherwise, too.
(The idea of custom printer mods is a fun thought)
Yes, the LED is connected straight to the power lead, so it is only on when power is flowing through the bed.
That’s a $700 hat and a $300 book that just happens to come with a free bag of gummy bears and a printer 😉
Been debating getting one of these myself, but I want to get the kit and assemble it myself, because reasons.
I saw your Piz Dispenser at the Charlotte Microcenter, so I know you were there. Unfortunately the rope was broken off 😢
Coincidentally I was there to buy a Pi Pico.
I for one welcome new 3d printer takeovers 🤪😄
Voron build next?
Should see if Jason wants to get in contact
Heh... working my way up to it! Next up is Positron V3.2... just need to stop procrastinating and get started!
What Voron type do you think Jeff is? I say Trident!
@@Level2Jeff Awesome, if you got any question/need any help just hit me up!
That tuning and looking for errors is something that should not happen at that price point. Unfortunately it seems to be not that uncommon with prusa printers.
The culprit has been found at the end of the video. A grub screw had come loose during shipping. This is hard to prevent unless you glue everything in place. However, this in turn would limit the repairability.
It is touchscreen. Upgrade the firmware to activate it.
Yep; found that out later in the video!
Uh, so quality control isn't best, still. Touch screen functionality is only available with recent firmwares (but knob is a way nicer to operate I think) . btw satin sheet is the best on Prusa printers.
Good to know; and in terms of QC, I'm guessing the set screw was fine at the factory, it just slowly worked its way out (the shipper delivered it to me on the box's back, lol).
But it might be nice to take little things like this into consideration for future builds-a dab of loctite at the factory would probably end that issue.
Printing with an AC is not optimal, the AC turns on and off and changes the temperature in waves... might be the reason for the wierd layers... anyway, just something i noticed when i print with AC on with an open printer.
Yeah; I did have first layer issues on my Ender 3 (old V2) when I didn't have it in an enclosure-but it turned out that set screw was the whole problem on the MK4. It's since printed a few bigger prints with no issue with HVAC on. I have the printers in an area that doesn't get too much airflow, but is regulated around 74-80°F through the day. That seems to be an acceptable range at least for PLA to not have problems.
Also, it should not be hard to filter the AC noise out in the video editor. Da Vinci resolve has it built in in recent versions but I have used a VST plugin for it in the past. You train it on the noise then select the range over which to remove the noise.
How come you have so many different types of printer? Do you really do that much 3D printing?
and now print printers :D
My P1S benchy. has the same transition zone..
8:40 Voron coming next? :D Please haha.
Next: 3d printed a rook corexy printer 😂
Now create a course on how to design 3d prints !!
That's honestly the most challenging part for me!
@@Level2Jeff you can do it - all in my favor say ayye 😂
@@Level2Jeff you can do it - all in my favor say ayye 😂
warning, do not get sucked into 3D printing as a hobby.
It might be too late. How many kg of filament dedicated to printing parts for 3D printing before you can classify it as addiction?
@@Level2Jeff Not many. Probably anything over 5 kg is time for an intervention.
upgrade it to a mk4s
Haha, all too easy, I now have auto-ship on filament.
Red Shirt Jeff recommends the Peoples Republic of the United States of America (PRUSA) 3D printer..
Funnily enough, Prusa announced a few days ago that PRUSA printers are now also being manufactured in the USA.
Ha, true! Hopefully with closer shipping source, some of those issues with things getting loose won't be as common!
0:46 Well, looks like that quality control receipt was a complete joke.
an assembled printer at this pricepoint shouldn’t need all the tuning you had to do, i bet josef prusa now regrets sending you one for free #backfire An Ender 3 produced a better benchy!
You obviously did not see the end of the video. The reason for the poor result was found. A grub screw had come loose during shipping. No big deal.