Great video! I like to stagger the ends slightly when pulling, and overlap the end with electrical tape, it really reduces the chances of snagging. When labeling, I use A, B, C... for the boxes, and 1, 2, 3 for the run (each time I pull wires). The wires are labeled A1, B1, C1 for the first pull, then A2, B2, C2 for the second, and so on. That prevents the possibility of labeling two wires the same. I also put it on the diagram immediately when pulled, so I know where everything is without having to look back. In a rough-in situation like in this video, it's convenient to run it through conduit if you have a few extra dollars (PVC or corrugated) with a 2 gang access box, or larger in good locations as junction points, such as closets, or utility rooms, etc. This allows future cable to be run extremely fast, usually in minutes, where it might require cutting into walls or climbing in the attic in the future otherwise. The $1 per foot for conduit is usually well worth it. I'll usually install a pull string with every conduit, so I have the ability to pull new cables without requiring fish tape, and the new cables get a new pull string as well, so there's always one in place. Always check with local fire code & tolerances to make sure holes aren't too big. I usually run them below joists next to HVAC, then seal it up with the HVAC duct drywall dropped down. Securing them every 3 ft or so is a good idea for corrugated conduit, that prevents it from moving too much for new pulls. If you have the choice between an unfinished basement vs an attic, the basement is better, since it stays cooler. PVC conduit may not be allowed in all areas, since an attic could potentially get too hot.
Very well done, the editing and topic divisions were very appropriate along with your ability to speak to the subject directly without any distracting comments. Thank you.
Would love to see a similar video, with tips and tricks for wiring a finished house. Using a house in this stage of construction would be helpful though to visualize the obstacles.
@@BackstreetCameras -- My thoughts also. My being old and unbalanced, my thoughts would be to hire a home audio crew to run Cat 6 cable including installing quality cameras
Very good video! If you wanna save money on electrical boxes, you can drill a 1 inch hole into the center of a 4" PVC end cap for your camera wires to go through. Mount the camera to the end cap, then use 3 1/2 inch deck screws to mount the PVC end cap to a rafter. Use a scrap 2x4 in the attic or on top of the aluminum/plastic soffit if no rafter is available where camera needs to be mounted. Bonus; PVC end cap may drop the camera below the edge of the facia board for a clear view if mounting outside.
Very well done! Perfect for the homeowner that can put their money into the camera system for optimal performance and ease of installation for less install issues. Thank you!
Very, very good. I've got one that's already built but I can climb and I've been up there all over the place many times looking for things like leaks, etc. It's filthy up there but I wear a dust mask and safety glasses. Afterwards, I take all the clothes I wore outside, shake and wash them. And always wear high top tennis shoes with a rubber sole for sure footage. I know I can do the install now that I've seen the bare bones and all the tips. Thank you so much.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your insights. One thing though about cross talk. While high and low voltage cabling don't mix, sometimes crossing is unavoidable. The absolute no no is running low voltage parallel to high voltage conductors. Cross talk there is not only possible, it's almost inevitable!
I got many good tips here (and on your website) about doing it right the first time on our home and 5 surrounding out buildings! Much cable to bury, but improved performance over wireless systems will probably make it worthwhile. Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thanks for this some basic fixes for noobs like me. I have guys coming in to run the cables but I think I'll be watching and helping now.. ...and I think I'll get my own 6e boxes of cable now too 👍 Edited: will also watch for CCA label now thanks!
fantastic video with a lot of great tips; as an installer and project manager with over 15 years on commercial and industrial sites, I like most of your recommendations. However just a quick note, Cat6 "E" is not a TIA standardized cable. There is Cat6 and Cat6a, and Cat5/Cat5e. While they do make a Cat6e cable, it has the same max bandwidth (1Gb at max length) as a Cat6 cable. Cat6a however has a max bandwidth of 10Gb at max length.
This is the business I want to get into, running data cables for surveillance cameras in prebuilt homes. A lot of the work I do now is running data cables in buildings that are years old and troubleshooting existing cables that have been there for years. I want to work in prebuilt homes so I can neatly run cables and label them the way I want without headaches like not knowing what’s behind this and that wall and having to run cables through difficult routes
I like your idea of placing a mud ring on the stud where all your wires meet. Will defintely keep it in mind for the next job ! Great Video by the way 😎
great video. suggestion on the drops.. use a pvc pipe.. run the end thru it and attach the pvc pipe (10-11 inch ) sticking out of the soffit once they do the stucco you cut the pvc flushed with stucco and install the cam
The max length run for cat 5 and cat 6 are both 100 meters (328 ft). Yes, reducing the number of termination points is beneficial but there are valid reasons to terminate at the wall and use patch cables. Especially if this is an area that sees a lot of activity with adds and changes.
We're going to disagree on the small points. Cat5 cable has 24 gauge wire, cat6 has 23 gauge wire. Since the copper is larger with cat6 the distance power can be sent is further. We support many DIY customers, we choose to be safe rather than sorry so we limit cat5 to 220 feet and cat6 to 300 feet. But all these rules go out the window when you are using our Cyber Secure NVRs. They have, right out of the box, the ability to send power and data 800 feet on cat 6 cable. So all common limitations go away with Cyber Secure. Here is the link for more info: www.backstreet-surveillance.com/cyber-secure-ndaa/cyber-secure-ndaa-security-nvr.html
So much good advice here. Another advantage of having larger holes is that if you have to replace a cable, it is easier to pull a new wire through. Ethernet is the wave of the future. Wired cameras are always better than Wireless since all cameras have to have power anyhow. Also, POE is becoming a thing and future homes will have most of their lighting via POE. All of my homes have Cat6 and I have POE lights. The other big advantage of wired security cameras is that criminals are now getting Wi-Fi interrupters/blockers which negate the effectiveness of wireless cameras. You can’t disrupt the signal with ethernet cameras. The best piece of advice in this video is to reduce the number of connections. All of my security cameras are home runs from the video cam to the NVR.
Great video thank you ! I have an issue, and do not know what to do. The location where I want to install my security cameras only has a 8 foot off the ground soffit. The other soffits are 9 feet off the ground. I live in a Ranch style house. I am concerned that someone can grab a pail or chair off the porch and steal or damage my security camera's. I believe that the camera's should be up in the air about 12 feet. Not sure how to accomplish this? Security camera mounting arms are not long enough to accommodate the mounting if I try to attach a security camera up a little toward the peak of the house and extend out toward the soffit in a straight line. Any help would be appreciated.
Great job on this video. I'm n process of finding and installing a home security system. trying to find the best easier way to run my wires. Can u do a video on a residential home wire installation?
Just found your channel and it's great. The only thing I would mention would be 1. go with Cat6A not E. Cat6a is the TIA industry standard, cat6e isn't an actual standard for marketing purposes (perhaps because the Cat5e IS an actual standard? I don't know.). Not that there's anything wrong with your cat6e cable, I'm sure it's fine, but different manufacturers might make worse cable than others. Cat6a is THE standard, so why not go with it? It's also got the core, rated for 10 Gbps, offers shielded versions, etc. Even Cat6, another standard, is rated for 10 gigabit (only at a shorter range, I think 55 meters?). And 2. stagger the cables when tapping them together. They are much less likely to catch anything and get hung up. Of course, you guys are pros and know what you're doing, with a 1 inch hole and open construction, I'm sure you won't have ANY issues whatsoever, but sometimes in a retrofit or odd situation, it definitely helps! Nice job.
Thank you for posting this video. I think I’ve viewed all your previous videos and find this one both valuable and interesting. Many of the “tips” seem like they would be valuable even when installing a system in preexisting construction.
Good question, its really a personal preference. Many technicians like the passthrough because its easier to see if each conductor is in the correct order. Thanks for the question.
Interesting to see how others run low voltage, I run low voltage for nurse call systems, I thought parallel runs were a non no due to EMI, but 90 degree crosses are ok, obviously avoid if possible. What is you separation from high voltage, 12 inches? Cheers from New 🇳🇿 ps, I like velcro with a screw through to hold cable in situ....you can easily add to it if necessary.
Excellent video and instruction. I wish I would have seen the video last week. I wired my LV after I wired the house. I have Cat6 and RG6 all over my high voltage wiring in tight vaults and above ceiling joists over low shed roofs. I thought they could cross, just not be under the same staples(from someone else's video.
Good question, you can add infrared illuminators to the areas that do not have adequate IR light. You can buy them on Amazon (just search for "outdoor infrared illuminator"). They are literally just a light but in IR wave length. Add as many as you need to illuminate the area. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the video. Lots of good tips and I learned a few things. I think you're overly paranoid about cross-talk. Wires crossing at 90 degrees is not a problem. Wires running parallel or less than 90 degrees to each other will potentially cause issues. Being conservative isn't usually bad - but don' t run up a huge bill or give yourself an ulcer to avoid one 90 degree crossing. People can relax on avoiding a jack at the NVR, too. Go visit a data-center some time. They put millions of dollars on the line every day with connectors that you're avoiding. These are digital signals - not analog or RF.
Our moto "get it right the first time". Short cuts usually end up taking the longest. We are not here to provide short cuts. Anyone can cross the wires if they want but if you start having strange unreliable video...remember to check your wires...
Buy sold conductors, Cat6 has larger diameter conductors, 23 gauge instead of 24 gauge, (the larger the number the smaller the conductor). This is why you can go further distances with cat6 rather than cat5. Hope this helps.
Can you recommend any quality security cameras that work on WiFi , they home we purchased was built in 2006 & not much room or crawl space to wire Cat6 cable & hard wire …..
Hi Bob, we wish we could. We have not found any that we would put our name on. All wifi camera solution target consumer grade performance, we only offer professional grade. Worry we don't have a better answer. Thanks for the question.
Correct but the reason we do not split hairs with this is; very often cables are ran in the same paths, directions and cable trays with all the other wires...then you have big issues. When trying to provide advice for first timers to "get it right the first time" we felt it was not smart to provide a bunch of "gray area" advice. Better to keep things simple, clear and out of the gray advice category. Thanks for the comment.
I have ran many, many AV cables in 12v applications for automotive and I have followed the rule to never run parallel with ANY power cable. Always 90 degree cross over if necessary. 🥳. Better to learn from one’s own mistakes BUT best to learn from the mistakes of others! Read and watch longer than you think. There’s solid gold in the next session! 😊
The size of the drive is a calculation of how many cameras, what resolution and number of days you want to store. Sound complicated but our hard drive calculator tool makes it easy. Here is a link to the tool: www.backstreet-surveillance.com/cctv-parts/memory.html
Good question. In the past both Lorex and Swann have reduced the amount of copper in their cables to save money. This means their cables usually only work with their cameras. Because they do this, their cables are not true Cat5 or Cat6. Seldom will their cables support a normal CCTV IP camera. If you are going to go with Lorex or Swann do yourself a favor and pull real cat5 or cat6 cable, don't use their cables. If you end up replacing the system as many do at least the cables will work with other brands. Thanks for the question.
@@BackstreetCameras thank you for your reply in such short notice! I have an existing set up and I believe the one I'm buying uses the same coaxial cable (BNC) that I currently have installed, only its like 10 years old. Thinking about using those same cables for the set up. Much appreciated!! I feel like that, if a wire is compromised that's how i will know. Great video !!!!
Its likely you will have troubles with that cable unless you buy another lorex system. "BNC" is the fitting, it does not indicate the cable quality at all. If you'll notice the Lorex cable is about 1/8th an inch in diameter. Normal coax cable is at least 3/8" diameter. Lorex cheats on the coax cable most of all. The glaring proof is the cable diameter, the good news is if you buy another Lorex coax system its likely to work. If you buy other (industry standard) cameras there is a big chance you will have problems with video quality and reliability. We have seen this issue play out with thousands of Lorex systems we have replaced. It would be a much easier replacement for customers if Lorex would have just stayed with normal RG59 cable instead of going to the ultra cheap solution. Hope this info helps.
Not a dumb question, as long as you follow our suggestions you could pull either direction. Usually we pull from the terminal location to the device location. Hope this helps.
Lots of home owners install under a covered porch. The total coverage area is usually limited but the point of the camera is to document activity at the entry door so over all, a good common practice. Thanks for the question.
You would just use the outdoor box for indoors. We are not aware of a manufacturer making a box just for indoor use. But it is really dependent on the camera since each camera has the box made specifically for the camera.
I like your video however towards the end I prefer patch cables. If you aren't using patch cables, you should make it clear the wiring person leave at least a 4' slack loop in the wall in case the furniture arrangement changes.
@@BackstreetCameras RIght - just preference. That is why I'm suggesting whenever wiring is done, if you leave a slack loop, should something need to be moved permanently the loop makes it so you won't have to use a bulky coupler.
That's because we are using 12v DC you can put your tongue on it. Europe uses 240v ac "kill you dead" power. Put your tongue on that and it will kill you and your grand kits. Thanks for the comment.
This was the best 16 min in a long time online. Thanks for your FREE thoughts and help me on my business. 🙏
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! I like to stagger the ends slightly when pulling, and overlap the end with electrical tape, it really reduces the chances of snagging. When labeling, I use A, B, C... for the boxes, and 1, 2, 3 for the run (each time I pull wires). The wires are labeled A1, B1, C1 for the first pull, then A2, B2, C2 for the second, and so on. That prevents the possibility of labeling two wires the same. I also put it on the diagram immediately when pulled, so I know where everything is without having to look back. In a rough-in situation like in this video, it's convenient to run it through conduit if you have a few extra dollars (PVC or corrugated) with a 2 gang access box, or larger in good locations as junction points, such as closets, or utility rooms, etc. This allows future cable to be run extremely fast, usually in minutes, where it might require cutting into walls or climbing in the attic in the future otherwise. The $1 per foot for conduit is usually well worth it. I'll usually install a pull string with every conduit, so I have the ability to pull new cables without requiring fish tape, and the new cables get a new pull string as well, so there's always one in place. Always check with local fire code & tolerances to make sure holes aren't too big. I usually run them below joists next to HVAC, then seal it up with the HVAC duct drywall dropped down. Securing them every 3 ft or so is a good idea for corrugated conduit, that prevents it from moving too much for new pulls. If you have the choice between an unfinished basement vs an attic, the basement is better, since it stays cooler. PVC conduit may not be allowed in all areas, since an attic could potentially get too hot.
Great detail, thanks.
I wish I cod cut n paste your post!
Very well done, the editing and topic divisions were very appropriate along with your ability to speak to the subject directly without any distracting comments. Thank you.
Thank you!
Would love to see a similar video, with tips and tricks for wiring a finished house. Using a house in this stage of construction would be helpful though to visualize the obstacles.
Great suggestion!
@@BackstreetCameras -- My thoughts also. My being old and unbalanced, my thoughts would be to hire a home audio crew to run Cat 6 cable including installing quality cameras
Really good video. You short circuited the learning curve. It is a whole lot easier wiring a house under construction rather than one already built.
You got that right! Thanks for the comments.
Used to do this for a living; these are all solid tips!
Thank you!
Amazing video! Great quality production, not too wordy, super helpful tip….just the right amount of information. I can’t thank you enough!
Awesome, thank you!
OUTSTANDING how-to video.
Thanks for posting.
Glad you liked it!
Great points. Used all of these when I did our home 8 years ago.
Right on!
This was sooo helpful. You won't understand just how much. Thank you!
You're so welcome!
This was an Excellent video!!! Direct and easy to follow and understand. THANK YOU
Glad it was helpful!
Very good video! If you wanna save money on electrical boxes, you can drill a 1 inch hole into the center of a 4" PVC end cap for your camera wires to go through. Mount the camera to the end cap, then use 3 1/2 inch deck screws to mount the PVC end cap to a rafter. Use a scrap 2x4 in the attic or on top of the aluminum/plastic soffit if no rafter is available where camera needs to be mounted. Bonus; PVC end cap may drop the camera below the edge of the facia board for a clear view if mounting outside.
That works!
Very well done! Perfect for the homeowner that can put their money into the camera system for optimal performance and ease of installation for less install issues. Thank you!
Thank you!
i am glad that you said dome and put a picture of a turret in ;) many people install domes outside... it will give you alot headache if you do
Very, very good. I've got one that's already built but I can climb and I've been up there all over the place many times looking for things like leaks, etc. It's filthy up there but I wear a dust mask and safety glasses. Afterwards, I take all the clothes I wore outside, shake and wash them. And always wear high top tennis shoes with a rubber sole for sure footage. I know I can do the install now that I've seen the bare bones and all the tips. Thank you so much.
Good suggestions.
Great video! Thanks for sharing your insights. One thing though about cross talk. While high and low voltage cabling don't mix, sometimes crossing is unavoidable. The absolute no no is running low voltage parallel to high voltage conductors. Cross talk there is not only possible, it's almost inevitable!
Thank you for all this info, it’s been a huge help.
Glad it was helpful!
I got many good tips here (and on your website) about doing it right the first time on our home and 5 surrounding out buildings! Much cable to bury, but improved performance over wireless systems will probably make it worthwhile.
Thanks for sharing your expertise.
Thanks for letting us know, greatly appreciated.
You did an excellent job on this video. Very professional
Thank you very much!
Thanks for this some basic fixes for noobs like me. I have guys coming in to run the cables but I think I'll be watching and helping now..
...and I think I'll get my own 6e boxes of cable now too 👍
Edited: will also watch for CCA label now thanks!
Good work bro. If your content is all like this, youll start blowing up like Home RenoVision.
Appreciate that!
fantastic video with a lot of great tips; as an installer and project manager with over 15 years on commercial and industrial sites, I like most of your recommendations. However just a quick note, Cat6 "E" is not a TIA standardized cable. There is Cat6 and Cat6a, and Cat5/Cat5e. While they do make a Cat6e cable, it has the same max bandwidth (1Gb at max length) as a Cat6 cable. Cat6a however has a max bandwidth of 10Gb at max length.
Thanks for for the input.
Great insight!
Thank you
This is the business I want to get into, running data cables for surveillance cameras in prebuilt homes. A lot of the work I do now is running data cables in buildings that are years old and troubleshooting existing cables that have been there for years. I want to work in prebuilt homes so I can neatly run cables and label them the way I want without headaches like not knowing what’s behind this and that wall and having to run cables through difficult routes
I like your idea of placing a mud ring on the stud where all your wires meet. Will defintely keep it in mind for the next job ! Great Video by the way 😎
Thanks for the comment, appreciated.
Hi I found this video really helpful where do I find the Videos of mounting the cameras and the finish ?
Nice job
great video. suggestion on the drops.. use a pvc pipe.. run the end thru it and attach the pvc pipe (10-11 inch ) sticking out of the soffit once they do the stucco you cut the pvc flushed with stucco and install the cam
Great suggestions
Great innovation.
Keep soaring higher
We will
Great information. Super content on your channel. Thanks.
Few things are better than learning insider tricks from master tradesmen
Thank you!
The max length run for cat 5 and cat 6 are both 100 meters (328 ft). Yes, reducing the number of termination points is beneficial but there are valid reasons to terminate at the wall and use patch cables. Especially if this is an area that sees a lot of activity with adds and changes.
We're going to disagree on the small points. Cat5 cable has 24 gauge wire, cat6 has 23 gauge wire. Since the copper is larger with cat6 the distance power can be sent is further. We support many DIY customers, we choose to be safe rather than sorry so we limit cat5 to 220 feet and cat6 to 300 feet. But all these rules go out the window when you are using our Cyber Secure NVRs. They have, right out of the box, the ability to send power and data 800 feet on cat 6 cable. So all common limitations go away with Cyber Secure. Here is the link for more info: www.backstreet-surveillance.com/cyber-secure-ndaa/cyber-secure-ndaa-security-nvr.html
Great video, very informational and helping with my design for major house renovation
So much good advice here.
Another advantage of having larger holes is that if you have to replace a cable, it is easier to pull a new wire through.
Ethernet is the wave of the future. Wired cameras are always better than Wireless since all cameras have to have power anyhow. Also, POE is becoming a thing and future homes will have most of their lighting via POE. All of my homes have Cat6 and I have POE lights.
The other big advantage of wired security cameras is that criminals are now getting Wi-Fi interrupters/blockers which negate the effectiveness of wireless cameras. You can’t disrupt the signal with ethernet cameras.
The best piece of advice in this video is to reduce the number of connections. All of my security cameras are home runs from the video cam to the NVR.
True on that.
Great video thank you ! I have an issue, and do not know what to do. The location where I want to install my security cameras only has a 8 foot off the ground soffit. The other soffits are 9 feet off the ground. I live in a Ranch style house. I am concerned that someone can grab a pail or chair off the porch and steal or damage my security camera's. I believe that the camera's should be up in the air about 12 feet. Not sure how to accomplish this? Security camera mounting arms are not long enough to accommodate the mounting if I try to attach a security camera up a little toward the peak of the house and extend out toward the soffit in a straight line. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you!
Excellent video!
Thank you very much!
Brilliant video full of tips, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Beautiful thank you for the helpful tips god bless
Thanks for watching!
Great job on this video. I'm n process of finding and installing a home security system. trying to find the best easier way to run my wires. Can u do a video on a residential home wire installation?
Enjoyed watching this video Sir.
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks.
Awesome video! Thank you!!
Just found your channel and it's great. The only thing I would mention would be 1. go with Cat6A not E. Cat6a is the TIA industry standard, cat6e isn't an actual standard for marketing purposes (perhaps because the Cat5e IS an actual standard? I don't know.). Not that there's anything wrong with your cat6e cable, I'm sure it's fine, but different manufacturers might make worse cable than others. Cat6a is THE standard, so why not go with it? It's also got the core, rated for 10 Gbps, offers shielded versions, etc. Even Cat6, another standard, is rated for 10 gigabit (only at a shorter range, I think 55 meters?).
And 2. stagger the cables when tapping them together. They are much less likely to catch anything and get hung up. Of course, you guys are pros and know what you're doing, with a 1 inch hole and open construction, I'm sure you won't have ANY issues whatsoever, but sometimes in a retrofit or odd situation, it definitely helps! Nice job.
Thanks for the input greatly appreciated.
Great Guide for starting up, certainly enriched my knowledge Thank you for a brilliant video
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks, this was great, one of the best.
If I have new construction in your area, you are worth hiring. Thank you for the great advice.
Glad to help
Great video sir you are very knowledgeable
Well done
Thank you!
Thank you for posting this video. I think I’ve viewed all your previous videos and find this one both valuable and interesting. Many of the “tips” seem like they would be valuable even when installing a system in preexisting construction.
Glad it was helpful!
Great job guys!!, thank u for that!!.
Thanks for watching!
Good information. Thank you and subscribed
Awesome, thank you!
Would you recommend a passthrough or normal rj45 cap for poe runs?
Good question, its really a personal preference. Many technicians like the passthrough because its easier to see if each conductor is in the correct order. Thanks for the question.
Very, very helpful tips and ideas, thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the CCA info.. just in time to cancel/change my order!
Good choice!
Great advice, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, thank you.
Glad you liked it!
Interesting to see how others run low voltage, I run low voltage for nurse call systems, I thought parallel runs were a non no due to EMI, but 90 degree crosses are ok, obviously avoid if possible. What is you separation from high voltage, 12 inches? Cheers from New 🇳🇿 ps, I like velcro with a screw through to hold cable in situ....you can easily add to it if necessary.
Good suggestions...
Direct burial Cat6E for 100 yards or Cat6E in conduct? Opinions?
Excellent video and instruction. I wish I would have seen the video last week. I wired my LV after I wired the house. I have Cat6 and RG6 all over my high voltage wiring in tight vaults and above ceiling joists over low shed roofs. I thought they could cross, just not be under the same staples(from someone else's video.
I was gonna comment on that too, crossing is fine, parallel runs are not not allowed
Thanks. Very helpful for DIYers like me.
Glad to hear that
damn that audio quality.10/10
Thank you so much!
Very helpful, thanks
Hey Mack Is there an IR spotlight or light bulb that can bathe my surveillance area in IR light? My yard has so many dark spots at night
Good question, you can add infrared illuminators to the areas that do not have adequate IR light. You can buy them on Amazon (just search for "outdoor infrared illuminator"). They are literally just a light but in IR wave length. Add as many as you need to illuminate the area. Hope this helps.
Great video. Really helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
What type & kind of cameras do you recommend ? Great advice & video ! 👍 thx
Here is a link to the cameras we recommend. www.backstreet-surveillance.com/ip-security-camera-systems/ip-security-cameras.html
Thanks
Thank you!
You bet!
what is a good height AFF to install carmera Field of View
• Horizontal: 87° • Vertical: 44° RLC-820A
The target distance from the camera is a factor as well. But on average 12-15 feet.?
Thanks for the video. Lots of good tips and I learned a few things.
I think you're overly paranoid about cross-talk. Wires crossing at 90 degrees is not a problem. Wires running parallel or less than 90 degrees to each other will potentially cause issues. Being conservative isn't usually bad - but don' t run up a huge bill or give yourself an ulcer to avoid one 90 degree crossing.
People can relax on avoiding a jack at the NVR, too. Go visit a data-center some time. They put millions of dollars on the line every day with connectors that you're avoiding. These are digital signals - not analog or RF.
Our moto "get it right the first time". Short cuts usually end up taking the longest. We are not here to provide short cuts. Anyone can cross the wires if they want but if you start having strange unreliable video...remember to check your wires...
What cables are solid wire vs stranded? What handle higher POE voltage? What wires have thicker conductors?
Buy sold conductors, Cat6 has larger diameter conductors, 23 gauge instead of 24 gauge, (the larger the number the smaller the conductor). This is why you can go further distances with cat6 rather than cat5. Hope this helps.
Can you recommend any quality security cameras that work on WiFi , they home we purchased was built in 2006 & not much room or crawl space to wire Cat6 cable & hard wire …..
Hi Bob, we wish we could. We have not found any that we would put our name on. All wifi camera solution target consumer grade performance, we only offer professional grade. Worry we don't have a better answer. Thanks for the question.
Good Job sir!
Thanks!
that is a nice work
I read the title and thought it was a comedy video with Al Bundy from Married with Children.
Viewers keep referring to me as Al so I thought well...why not. lol
Very little issue with EMI when crossing HV lines at 90 degrees.
Correct but the reason we do not split hairs with this is; very often cables are ran in the same paths, directions and cable trays with all the other wires...then you have big issues. When trying to provide advice for first timers to "get it right the first time" we felt it was not smart to provide a bunch of "gray area" advice. Better to keep things simple, clear and out of the gray advice category. Thanks for the comment.
@@BackstreetCameras fair
I have ran many, many AV cables in 12v applications for automotive and I have followed the rule to never run parallel with ANY power cable. Always 90 degree cross over if necessary. 🥳. Better to learn from one’s own mistakes BUT best to learn from the mistakes of others! Read and watch longer than you think. There’s solid gold in the next session! 😊
How many Gigabytes I need to have at least to run a system like the one on video
The size of the drive is a calculation of how many cameras, what resolution and number of days you want to store. Sound complicated but our hard drive calculator tool makes it easy. Here is a link to the tool: www.backstreet-surveillance.com/cctv-parts/memory.html
would it be ok to run electric and Cat 6 side by side if the cat 6 is shielded?
Hi Brian, you can run low voltage 12v DC in the cat6 along with data but any AC power will likely mess things up. Hope this helps. Thanks
if you absolutely have to cross a cable keep it at 90 degrees, although a shielded cable probably won't be affected (as much).
You from Utah?
What type of cables do security cameras like Lorex and swann come with are they consider cat5?
Good question. In the past both Lorex and Swann have reduced the amount of copper in their cables to save money. This means their cables usually only work with their cameras. Because they do this, their cables are not true Cat5 or Cat6. Seldom will their cables support a normal CCTV IP camera. If you are going to go with Lorex or Swann do yourself a favor and pull real cat5 or cat6 cable, don't use their cables. If you end up replacing the system as many do at least the cables will work with other brands. Thanks for the question.
@@BackstreetCameras thank you for your reply in such short notice! I have an existing set up and I believe the one I'm buying uses the same coaxial cable (BNC) that I currently have installed, only its like 10 years old. Thinking about using those same cables for the set up. Much appreciated!! I feel like that, if a wire is compromised that's how i will know. Great video !!!!
Its likely you will have troubles with that cable unless you buy another lorex system. "BNC" is the fitting, it does not indicate the cable quality at all. If you'll notice the Lorex cable is about 1/8th an inch in diameter. Normal coax cable is at least 3/8" diameter. Lorex cheats on the coax cable most of all. The glaring proof is the cable diameter, the good news is if you buy another Lorex coax system its likely to work. If you buy other (industry standard) cameras there is a big chance you will have problems with video quality and reliability. We have seen this issue play out with thousands of Lorex systems we have replaced. It would be a much easier replacement for customers if Lorex would have just stayed with normal RG59 cable instead of going to the ultra cheap solution. Hope this info helps.
Excellent !
Many thanks!
Can I use CAT 8 cables?
Yes cat5, cat6, cat7 cat8 will all drive 4K surveillance cameras...
Could you update the link? Goes to a site unavailable
Done! Thanks for letting us know.
thanks your my rolemodle
Thank you!
Dumb question, Do you run cable from the camera position to the termination point or vice versa.
Not a dumb question, as long as you follow our suggestions you could pull either direction. Usually we pull from the terminal location to the device location. Hope this helps.
What about covered porches
Lots of home owners install under a covered porch. The total coverage area is usually limited but the point of the camera is to document activity at the entry door so over all, a good common practice. Thanks for the question.
Nobody makes a junction box for the inside cameras?
You would just use the outdoor box for indoors. We are not aware of a manufacturer making a box just for indoor use. But it is really dependent on the camera since each camera has the box made specifically for the camera.
great
Experience. Something you can't buy, borrow or pretend to have.
Thank you!
Great video. Al Bundy 🤣
😁
I like your video however towards the end I prefer patch cables. If you aren't using patch cables, you should make it clear the wiring person leave at least a 4' slack loop in the wall in case the furniture arrangement changes.
Yes they have their benefits. Its a personal preference.
@@BackstreetCameras RIght - just preference. That is why I'm suggesting whenever wiring is done, if you leave a slack loop, should something need to be moved permanently the loop makes it so you won't have to use a bulky coupler.
I can’t image how cold your hands have been though the whole video.
Use to it...lol
crazy how badly you running cables in US....without any conduits...
In Europe you would not have a single customers with delivering work like this.
That's because we are using 12v DC you can put your tongue on it. Europe uses 240v ac "kill you dead" power. Put your tongue on that and it will kill you and your grand kits. Thanks for the comment.
Do you love Peggy or is this the other Al Bundy
lol...we all love peggy.
Algorithm.