I have a 98 Terry 25B 5th Wheel with an Atwood 8525-III DCLP that I’m trying to diagnose. Though I know the issue isn’t the motor or power, this video showed me where some of the other likely trouble spots are located and will help me greatly. Thanks for posting
You make this look so easy. I have never seen the older blower (squirrel cages) come off shaft that easy. Nice job! Thanks for the video. Enjoyable as usual.
Want to thank you so much for this video. With this video and a new blower motor I was able to save myself money by doing this myself! Works perfectly! And quietly!! Thank you!
Doing everything one handed is impressive :) So far watching your videos has gotten 3 of my RV problems fixed, so thank you for that. My OCD still wont let me splice different colored wires together yet though :(
I am glad they have helped. I understand your wiring concerns. Maybe I've just been around RVs too long. The colors on wiring changes so often, due to where chassis, coach, and component wiring meet. Thanks
@@AZExpert I've noticed that. I've been trying to figure out why my right rear speaker wont work. I can see the wiring going to it from the front. I trace it as far as I can till I lose it. So I pop off the speaker and take a look and totally different color wires. ARGGG.
Thank YOU. Mine is working great once I cleaned out the contacts on the thermostat but this helped me know more about my furnace. it is exhausting properly and it is even keeping within the temperature anticipation within 1 degree or so! YAY. I bought the trailer and had to get a new HWH installed. Then one morning I woke up and the furnace was on but I didn't know that it even worked, but the thermostat was dusty inside so it wasn't making contact until by accident I assume due to my walking around etc... now everything is good and working. I do have a small wood stove in my trailer, but the fire goes out in the middle of the night, so the heater will now kick on when it gets below 67 degrees inside. Me, my parakeet, and my little mouse are toasty warm and I am better aware of how my furnace works so, YAY!
Bless you for this video, I fixed my squealing furnace in an hour after watching it. Same model number but had HydroFlame brand on it, other than that it was identical.
I had the Lenox variable speed DC motor many many moons ago in a house I owned, thought it was the best, just the best to make me learn about furnaces. Went through a couple motors and boards then it finally worked a winter no fail. The smell of DC motor burning is not an easy one to get out of your house when it is below zero outside.
I’m glad you pointed out the fact that some furnaces don’t have any access doors outside. I’ll have to be more careful about what I’m looking for as far as access points on the rig. 👍
I have a Hydro Flame Excalibur 8900-II that's making a lot of noise off and on as it's blowing. Sounds like a funny rattling noise. Could use a hint on what to start with on trouble shooting it. I had someone already take it out of the RV and he said he thought the bearings were in good shape, and he could not see a source for the rattling. He put it back in and now it's rattling way more than it was before he took it out.
Yellow is ground as per ABYC wiring standards. Not sure why trailers are classed under the same thing as boats but here we are. Thanks for this video, I was thinking id have to rip the whole furnace out for repair, and I might still, all I know for sure is I got power and ground on my motor and it dont spin.
I really enjoy watching your videos. Have learned a lot! Have you thought about wearing a head mount camera? Might let you use both hands during the work..Just a thought. Again love your videos!!!!!
I have thought about it. Not get too deep into it, I am a RV tech first and I cannot always drag a studio with me. #2 I have found GoPros lose audio or turn off unexpectedly, which is impossible to see with a head mount. #3 I really do not enjoy editing video that much and having multiple cameras to unload and edit tends to make me lose interest. However, thank you for watching, I'm trying to get better.
Thanks to your videos, was able to replace my burner & electrode (igniter&flame sensor) on my 8531-iii. My question is. it stays burning for 18 secs, then off for approx 10sec then back on. Stays warm at ducts. I assume normal operation, but wanted to ask if that was typical. Thanks for your videos!
@@AZExpert I also have a new digital thermostat installed to replace the manual one, and new sail switch yet install. Silly question, but what would be the t-stat in the furnace?
@@AZExpert other info, since I could not source the original burner for the unit, i replaced it with a Hydro Flame HY6043 Corp 30268 Burner, non modified, but read some modify it, just not sure how.
Hi! Thanks for sharing experience. I have same furnace and it keeping close the gas valve after ignition. It makes 3 tries and shut. What might be a reason?
Can I pick your brain? I have a 1994 coleman popup with an atwood 7900 furnace. It only works on shore power and not the battery. The fan blows perfectly on shore power but on battery I can't feel a thing so it doesn't ignite. I replaced the battery connections, cleaned the chassis ground at the battery and the furnace and fully charged and load tested the battery. I can read battery voltage at the circuit breaker. Once the fan kicks on the voltage at the breaker drops to 11.3v but the battery is still reading at 12.6. I figure the sub 12 v power to the furnace is not enough to rotate the fan full speed, causing the non ignite situation. Would a bad fan motor cause that voltage drop?
I wouldn't have put lube on the blower wheel, it will spray around and collect dirt. I pull the little fan cover to make it easier to remove the little fan with a flat bar.... yes, outside access doors are the easiest to work on. good video, better than the one I made... yours is so good that I deleted mine.
Hi can you help me. I have a 1999 Ford jayco eagle. My furnace has power and the blower is blowing cold air. I'm just not sure about how to turn the unit on. I turned the wall panel to 90 and turn the unit on. I can hear the blower and all the vents have cold air blowing out. Is there something in the outside of the unit to turn on the propane in the back of the furnace. I have the propane tank on and can use my gas stove and water heater.
My tstat only runs with it on fan. Click it an auto and it clicks on and off. Rapidly. Got a 2006 colman 24 foot travel trailer. Starting with the tstat but I’m using this in the winter months. Don’t want to freeze. Sounds like a intermittent contactor but not sure. This issue sound familiar to you?
Great video I like the old school appeal of my 93 terry ..can you help me with my furnace the motor speed seems to go up/ down ..full battery no noise it's not a big drop but it didn't used to do it before thanks for the video hope to see N.M.soon
I am guessing that once you replace the fuse, and you still do not have power to the switch, that the problem lies in the wiring between the fuse box and the switch? it doesn't look like it's coming from the circuit board.
Awesome video 👍. I have an Atwood 8500 IV. The blower runs a long time after the burner has kicked off. 10-15 minutes sometimes.. but not always. Any idea what would be the issue? 2000 Terry trailer. Thanks!
Excellent detailed steps and info on repair! AZ, does make sense when you first hear the motor bearings going bad, to take it apart and grease the bearing before they get bad? Or, when it is apart to replace the motor? I imagine the motor cost around $100 bucks.......
I need to buy an on and off circuit breaker switch for my atwood furnace. However, all i can find online is a switch that is a push-to-reset actuator. Do I need to buy one where the actuator is on and off or will a push-to-reset style work? my switch is made from potter and brumfield part# W28-ST1A-5. Please let me know what you think . Thank you very much
I won't tell you do re-design it but the circuit itself has fused protection before the furnace. I'd use the manufacture's website to research the model and serial number to see if the part gets swtiched to a different part.
The furnace is working fine but I am not feeling the heat inside the RV...even the conducts are clear and clean..so the air that goes inside the RV is poor and cold. Except in the bathroom that is near the furnace.Can you please help me?...Hector from FL Even though the exhaust throw good hot air
Is there a gas shout off that I’m not seeing. ? It’s like mine is not igniting. Blower is working but it seems like it’s not igniting I don’t hear a igniting sound
My breaker was bad on the furnace. The black switch that is mounted on the furnace. I replaced it with a fuse. Wouldn't a fuse do the same thing as the breaker.
I have the same furnace in a Coachmen 360 and have no power to the unit. I ran a jumper from the breaker to the aux batteries and furnace works fine. I have good power at the fuse box, but it is about a 12 ga brown wire there. Any ideas where it changes to a blue wire and becomes a smaller gauge? Or, would it be better to just run a new supply from the fuse box to the furnace?
@@AZExpert the thermostat has works in Cold and fan fine, and when I run power to the breaker at the furnace the t.stst works as it should too. I also have a ceiling mounted duo-therm. The optional heat is hooked up and the relay clicks in the unit when adjusting the t.stat but nothing happens. I opened the ceiling unit found the same brown wire that goes to the fusebox and it has 12 volts. I did a continuity test and it is the same wire, but no brown at the furnace.
@@AZExpert ok, just metered all connections at t.stst. Everything rests at 12 volts to ground except "cool" which rests at 7.5 until activated, and then each drops to zero. I also discovered a 4th postion on the mode switch when the cover is off. Top to bottom goes (cool, off, furnace, and the position below) that seems to be low fan.
at the ac control box on the ceiling there should be two blue wires. One should be full time power from the furnace and the other is switched power to the furnace. If you don't have 12vdc+ coming in, then the furnace won't work generally that get power straight from the furnace, if you don't have power coming out when the furnace is turned on, you have a control issue.
@@AZExpert I made this before you replied, lol, th-cam.com/video/bIymG4wrVwk/w-d-xo.html I have found the 2 blue wires, no 12v on either but continuity between them when t.stat selector to heat. I am assuming they are the normally open contacts from the relay and one side shiuld rest at 12v. I will address the rest in the morning. Thank you.
I have not had a great deal of success with GoPros. They tend to drop audio for no reason, and truthfully I have to take my glasses off many times just to get my head in situations to see things. But I have tried to incorporate a tripod a little more often. Thanks!
@@AZExpert i dont know what a fan relay is. The cage spins easy the sail switch is clean, it tirns right on amd blows and blows. Fuse is new, there is a round white button on the top that says 10 on it and that is lose it doesnt press in and pop out normal its jist lose, what is that? Sail? The on off button is an actual switch in the front its fine no propane smells i guess because its not lighting either
I have a 98 Terry 25B 5th Wheel with an Atwood 8525-III DCLP that I’m trying to diagnose. Though I know the issue isn’t the motor or power, this video showed me where some of the other likely trouble spots are located and will help me greatly. Thanks for posting
That is the best video on Atwood furnaces that I've seen. Great presentation! Thanks
WOW!! Thank you very much!!
You make this look so easy. I have never seen the older blower (squirrel cages) come off shaft that easy. Nice job! Thanks for the video. Enjoyable as usual.
Thanks 👍
Dar, if you watch the last 15s of the video, uhm, he did lots of fighting!
Want to thank you so much for this video. With this video and a new blower motor I was able to save myself money by doing this myself! Works perfectly! And quietly!! Thank you!
Awesome!!!
This is a great video man! Love troubleshooting I even enjoy watching somebody else do it especially when successful
Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for a very detailed and easy to follow video. Explaining your thought process in such a way to make things easy to follow.
Thanks for watching!
Good video James. Thank you. Happy trails!
Thanks Phil!
You have saved me thousands with your videos. Thank you keep them coming, your awesome.
Awesome!! Thanks for watching!
Doing everything one handed is impressive :) So far watching your videos has gotten 3 of my RV problems fixed, so thank you for that. My OCD still wont let me splice different colored wires together yet though :(
I am glad they have helped. I understand your wiring concerns. Maybe I've just been around RVs too long. The colors on wiring changes so often, due to where chassis, coach, and component wiring meet. Thanks
@@AZExpert I've noticed that. I've been trying to figure out why my right rear speaker wont work. I can see the wiring going to it from the front. I trace it as far as I can till I lose it. So I pop off the speaker and take a look and totally different color wires. ARGGG.
Boththe visuals and the dialogue are excellent, very informative, thank you.
Thanks Paul!
Thank YOU. Mine is working great once I cleaned out the contacts on the thermostat but this helped me know more about my furnace. it is exhausting properly and it is even keeping within the temperature anticipation within 1 degree or so! YAY. I bought the trailer and had to get a new HWH installed. Then one morning I woke up and the furnace was on but I didn't know that it even worked, but the thermostat was dusty inside so it wasn't making contact until by accident I assume due to my walking around etc... now everything is good and working. I do have a small wood stove in my trailer, but the fire goes out in the middle of the night, so the heater will now kick on when it gets below 67 degrees inside. Me, my parakeet, and my little mouse are toasty warm and I am better aware of how my furnace works so, YAY!
Bless you for this video, I fixed my squealing furnace in an hour after watching it. Same model number but had HydroFlame brand on it, other than that it was identical.
I had the Lenox variable speed DC motor many many moons ago in a house I owned, thought it was the best, just the best to make me learn about furnaces. Went through a couple motors and boards then it finally worked a winter no fail. The smell of DC motor burning is not an easy one to get out of your house when it is below zero outside.
that sounds awful
Thank you for this video. I now better understand how my furnace works and can troubleshoot with confidence!
Thanks alot really helped me bc a dirt dobber nest was in my fan keeping it from spinning and lighting cleared it now works like a charm!
Glad it helped. Those mud nest are very common. There are mesh covers to put over the vents to hopefully prevent it in the future.
nice one handed mechanic work..well done
Thank you.
Thanks for posting! Just hit some unseasonably cold weather here in TX. Wish all RVs had that access door from the outside!
OMG, I finally know where the sail switch is! Thank you!
You are welcome
Thanks man, I got a 1991 Shadow Cruiser 5th Wheel w/an Atwood Hydro Flame 8520-II 20K BTU LP Gas Furnace, now I know where the Sail Switch is.....! =)
Thank you! Great help to give me an idea of how these things work and how to open them up! Thanks!
Happy to help!
Ahh Sunday morning, cup of coffee, feet up and your video. What’s not to like.
that is much higher praise than I deserve. Thank you!
My furnace lives again! Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thanks and great to see how to replace the blower motor. Have had one do this before after bearing went bad. Good videos!
Glad it helped
I’m glad you pointed out the fact that some furnaces don’t have any access doors outside. I’ll have to be more careful about what I’m looking for as far as access points on the rig. 👍
Yes...it is very upsetting when there is not an outside door.
I have a Hydro Flame Excalibur 8900-II that's making a lot of noise off and on as it's blowing. Sounds like a funny rattling noise. Could use a hint on what to start with on trouble shooting it.
I had someone already take it out of the RV and he said he thought the bearings were in good shape, and he could not see a source for the rattling. He put it back in and now it's rattling way more than it was before he took it out.
Good video. I learn a lot from your videos. Thanks for posting.
you're very welcome. I'm happy you enjoy them.
Yellow is ground as per ABYC wiring standards. Not sure why trailers are classed under the same thing as boats but here we are. Thanks for this video, I was thinking id have to rip the whole furnace out for repair, and I might still, all I know for sure is I got power and ground on my motor and it dont spin.
I really enjoy watching your videos. Have learned a lot! Have you thought about wearing a head mount camera? Might let you use both hands during the work..Just a thought. Again love your videos!!!!!
I have thought about it. Not get too deep into it, I am a RV tech first and I cannot always drag a studio with me. #2 I have found GoPros lose audio or turn off unexpectedly, which is impossible to see with a head mount. #3 I really do not enjoy editing video that much and having multiple cameras to unload and edit tends to make me lose interest. However, thank you for watching, I'm trying to get better.
Thanks to your videos, was able to replace my burner & electrode (igniter&flame sensor) on my 8531-iii. My question is. it stays burning for 18 secs, then off for approx 10sec then back on. Stays warm at ducts. I assume normal operation, but wanted to ask if that was typical. Thanks for your videos!
not typical sounds like it's short cycling maybe the t-stat in the furnace is going bad.
@@AZExpert I also have a new digital thermostat installed to replace the manual one, and new sail switch yet install. Silly question, but what would be the t-stat in the furnace?
@@AZExpert other info, since I could not source the original burner for the unit, i replaced it with a Hydro Flame HY6043 Corp 30268 Burner, non modified, but read some modify it, just not sure how.
@@AZExpert Oh and addition, was running off a 25lb bottle instead of on-board 40lb that found out was fairly low.
Hi! Thanks for sharing experience. I have same furnace and it keeping close the gas valve after ignition. It makes 3 tries and shut. What might be a reason?
Awesome as usual 👍💯😎
Thanks for watching! :)
Can I pick your brain? I have a 1994 coleman popup with an atwood 7900 furnace. It only works on shore power and not the battery. The fan blows perfectly on shore power but on battery I can't feel a thing so it doesn't ignite. I replaced the battery connections, cleaned the chassis ground at the battery and the furnace and fully charged and load tested the battery.
I can read battery voltage at the circuit breaker. Once the fan kicks on the voltage at the breaker drops to 11.3v but the battery is still reading at 12.6. I figure the sub 12 v power to the furnace is not enough to rotate the fan full speed, causing the non ignite situation. Would a bad fan motor cause that voltage drop?
I wouldn't have put lube on the blower wheel, it will spray around and collect dirt. I pull the little fan cover to make it easier to remove the little fan with a flat bar.... yes, outside access doors are the easiest to work on. good video, better than the one I made... yours is so good that I deleted mine.
Hi can you help me. I have a 1999 Ford jayco eagle. My furnace has power and the blower is blowing cold air. I'm just not sure about how to turn the unit on. I turned the wall panel to 90 and turn the unit on. I can hear the blower and all the vents have cold air blowing out. Is there something in the outside of the unit to turn on the propane in the back of the furnace. I have the propane tank on and can use my gas stove and water heater.
My tstat only runs with it on fan. Click it an auto and it clicks on and off. Rapidly. Got a 2006 colman 24 foot travel trailer. Starting with the tstat but I’m using this in the winter months. Don’t want to freeze. Sounds like a intermittent contactor but not sure. This issue sound familiar to you?
Excellent video.
Thank you very much!
Got 2 on a rv purchase from NM the previous owners did nothing about have to fix everything amazing
Yikes
Great video I like the old school appeal of my 93 terry ..can you help me with my furnace the motor speed seems to go up/ down ..full battery no noise it's not a big drop but it didn't used to do it before thanks for the video hope to see N.M.soon
I am guessing that once you replace the fuse, and you still do not have power to the switch, that the problem lies in the wiring between the fuse box and the switch? it doesn't look like it's coming from the circuit board.
Awesome video 👍. I have an Atwood 8500 IV. The blower runs a long time after the burner has kicked off. 10-15 minutes sometimes.. but not always. Any idea what would be the issue? 2000 Terry trailer. Thanks!
sounds like the fan delay relay is sticking
I cannot get the fan off for the life of me. I've tried everything. Any suggestions? It's made out of metal
Great video, thank you!🇺🇸👊
Excellent detailed steps and info on repair! AZ, does make sense when you first hear the motor bearings going bad, to take it apart and grease the bearing before they get bad? Or, when it is apart to replace the motor? I imagine the motor cost around $100 bucks.......
It would quiet it for a little bit....but if its torn down that far to oil.....might as well replace the motor like $80. Thanks
@AZ Expert Thank you, kind of figured might as well changed it out, if you take it apart..
I need to buy an on and off circuit breaker switch for my atwood furnace. However, all i can find online is a switch that is a push-to-reset actuator. Do I need to buy one where the actuator is on and off or will a push-to-reset style work? my switch is made from potter and brumfield part# W28-ST1A-5. Please let me know what you think . Thank you very much
I won't tell you do re-design it but the circuit itself has fused protection before the furnace. I'd use the manufacture's website to research the model and serial number to see if the part gets swtiched to a different part.
@@AZExpert thank you will do
The furnace is working fine but I am not feeling the heat inside the RV...even the conducts are clear and clean..so the air that goes inside the RV is poor and cold. Except in the bathroom that is near the furnace.Can you please help me?...Hector from FL Even though the exhaust throw good hot air
it sounds like ducting is diconnected at the furnace or the floor
Is there a gas shout off that I’m not seeing. ? It’s like mine is not igniting. Blower is working but it seems like it’s not igniting I don’t hear a igniting sound
If the ignitor is not clicking then the board is not seeing the fan run which is likely the sail switch.
AZ Expert which one is the sail switch? I will go back an watch again don’t remember you saying that one.
My breaker was bad on the furnace. The black switch that is mounted on the furnace. I replaced it with a fuse. Wouldn't a fuse do the same thing as the breaker.
Yes, but usually breakers aren't as sensitive as fuses. Glad you figured it out
Excellent demonstration, very pro and easy, I guess I will become addictive to your videos, thanks! Do you have a website?
thank you very much. I hope you enjoy them! I do not have a website.
I have the same furnace in a Coachmen 360 and have no power to the unit. I ran a jumper from the breaker to the aux batteries and furnace works fine. I have good power at the fuse box, but it is about a 12 ga brown wire there. Any ideas where it changes to a blue wire and becomes a smaller gauge? Or, would it be better to just run a new supply from the fuse box to the furnace?
Have you checked at the wall thermostat for power or is it a simple bimetal tstat?
@@AZExpert the thermostat has works in Cold and fan fine, and when I run power to the breaker at the furnace the t.stst works as it should too. I also have a ceiling mounted duo-therm. The optional heat is hooked up and the relay clicks in the unit when adjusting the t.stat but nothing happens. I opened the ceiling unit found the same brown wire that goes to the fusebox and it has 12 volts. I did a continuity test and it is the same wire, but no brown at the furnace.
@@AZExpert ok, just metered all connections at t.stst. Everything rests at 12 volts to ground except "cool" which rests at 7.5 until activated, and then each drops to zero. I also discovered a 4th postion on the mode switch when the cover is off. Top to bottom goes (cool, off, furnace, and the position below) that seems to be low fan.
at the ac control box on the ceiling there should be two blue wires. One should be full time power from the furnace and the other is switched power to the furnace. If you don't have 12vdc+ coming in, then the furnace won't work generally that get power straight from the furnace, if you don't have power coming out when the furnace is turned on, you have a control issue.
@@AZExpert I made this before you replied, lol, th-cam.com/video/bIymG4wrVwk/w-d-xo.html I have found the 2 blue wires, no 12v on either but continuity between them when t.stat selector to heat. I am assuming they are the normally open contacts from the relay and one side shiuld rest at 12v. I will address the rest in the morning. Thank you.
My 1997 Atwood Hydro flame furnace blower motor starts and runs fine but I do not hear the click or smell gas and there is no ignition. Any ideas?
Check the power in and out of the sail switch
Great content.
Thank You
Glad you liked it!
Enjoy your videos....Have you considered a GoPro camera with head strap to free up your hands?
I have not had a great deal of success with GoPros. They tend to drop audio for no reason, and truthfully I have to take my glasses off many times just to get my head in situations to see things. But I have tried to incorporate a tripod a little more often. Thanks!
My TT furnace doesn't have an access door. And it won't come out 😡 I want to replace the circuit board.
yes, I also have the same feeling for furnaces without an access door.
awesome video thanks for the info
You're very welcome. Hope it helps. Thanks
Not as hard as I would have thought. Motor was smaller then I expected. 👍🏼
Yes, a pretty easy job. Thanks
Mine doesnt do that clicking thing it runs and blows air non stop but no heat
Sounds like your sail switch is not sensing the airflow and you may have an older board or stuck fan speed delay relay too.
@@AZExpert i dont know what a fan relay is. The cage spins easy the sail switch is clean, it tirns right on amd blows and blows. Fuse is new, there is a round white button on the top that says 10 on it and that is lose it doesnt press in and pop out normal its jist lose, what is that? Sail? The on off button is an actual switch in the front its fine no propane smells i guess because its not lighting either
@@AZExpert i checked it was the battery the reat was fine
I have spark at the thermocouple why wont it ignite I can hear it keep trying
I you can see a spark then you are not getting propane. The valve isn't opening or something is clogged.
@@AZExpert I can smell propane
You use the pb blast like it's a $1 per squirt
agree. simple as possible!
Thanks!
This issue I’m having is when it’s cooling or heating. Dummy proofing and installing a new direct replacement t stat. See where that gets me. Lol
32 Degrees here in IL this morning
I'm sorry to hear it...I do not do well in the cold.
Rock star
You need a fuse buddy for diag it will save you a million fuses
If there is no access door they can use you and you can struggle
without the door the job can be twice as difficult for sure.
But Bluetooth and Wi-Fi is sexy and sells RVs...
I agree they are sexy
Junk. Motors are f'ing junk. Very limited life span.
I mean I think this one lasted 20 years
This issue I’m having is when it’s cooling or heating. Dummy proofing and installing a new direct replacement t stat. See where that gets me. Lol