My motor is making that same rattling noise. Called a service guy, but he never called back ......soooo I figured if I can fix the heating element on my fridge, maybe I can tackle this. Your video gave me all the confidence I need ! Thank you sooooo much. I love the fact that you explain everything in detail. You made me crack up when you were trying to find the correct allan wrench. :) Can't wait to get started on this ! Woo Hoo !
Best Video EVER!!! I was looking for the location of the Thermal protection switch and your video showed it and how to easily access it!! Thanks so much!
The best way to easily remove the fans from the blower motor shaft is to hold the hub of the burner fan (right side) with channel locks while rotating the blower fan and simultaneously pulling it away from the motor. It should drop right off after a few turns. Then hold the exposed shaft on the left with channel locks and spin the burner fan off the same way. Took me about 3 minutes to pull both fans and the motor free.
+force245 Glad to hear you can save some money using this video. Another benefit is you will know how your heater works so you can troubleshoot it yourself in the future if needed. Thanks for watching my video and it's good to know it is helping people.
Thank you so much! Great video super detailed. Best one I’ve found. It would’ve been nice to hear what the motor sounded like before you replaced it as well to help others diagnose the symptoms. Just some feedback for next time. Bless and thank you
You are welcome! I agree it would have been nice to get a before video and audio of the motor before it went. It would occasionally squeal a time or two but that's about all the warning I had. By the time I realized it needed replaced, the fan did not come on at all. One time it worked and sounded normal then the next time it wouldn't run at all. I would say if you hear the motor squeal you probably need to replace the motor as soon as possible because it may not work the next time you try to use the furnace. Hope this helps you out.
@@WannaBFree Exactly like mine did as well. It squealed like hell when if first came on, then stopped and would run great, every time I used it, then like he said, it just simply did nothing when I turned it on.
hey thanks your video helped me get this done. One thing I could add: When I was removing the engine from the internal fan, I heated it but it was stubborn so I really ranked on it and bent the inside fan. It wobbled and scratched the cover when I put it back together. I took a screwdriver and bent the cover away so it doesn't hit, but you can still feel it wobbling. that inside fan appears to be difficult to get out of there so I'm dealing with it for now. My point is: be careful when taking that old engine out. don't bend that fan.
Your Video was a great help. A few suggestions I have is.1, Use a piece of Duct tape to hold the motor cover up above the work space.2, using a crescent wrench on the motor shaft to hold it from rotating while spinning the exhaust fan in order to remove the motor worked good for me. A quick squirt of WD-40 helped remove it.Note, Since the bearings on my motor are not bad, I was able to force High temp Lithium grease into each side of the shaft using tooth pics. Working it in as I rotated the shaft. I was amazed at how much I was able to squeeze in. the squealing has stopped, the lights no longer dim when the motor starts. I don't know how long this fix will last, but it will give me time to find a replacement motor at my convenience.Again, thanks for the Video, I couldn't have done it without your instruction.
+wagincrap All excellent ideas you have and sounds like you will extend the life of your motor. Glad to hear my video has helped you out. Thanks for watching.
Very helpful. Got the same project on a model III staring at me. Only this one is mounted vertical. It got noisy, took that cover off and found 6 fins broken out of the blower cage. Motor seems to have a lot of end play, so it's getting changed also. The R V is being used as a medical safe zone, so its got to work ... not a job you want to be doing in a snow storm! Someone had been in this before, it appears that the black plastic cover over that fan was not re-installed correctly, which caused the fan damage ...
@@WannaBFree Got it all buttoned up as daylight started to wain. The main cause of damage turned out to be ... a damned field mouse. Loads of fun removing the rest of him from the heat chamber!
Glad you got it all wrapped up. I know what you mean about the field mice. Darn things can cause a lot of issues with RV's and other things too. Good to hear you got it out of there and all fixed up. Take care!
Did you see in the video at 14:30 where I talk about heating the fan hub with a match to remove the fan from the retaining hub? A little heat on the hub expands the size of the hub just enough to let it release the fan. It may not always work but that's how I had to remove my fan.
awesome I did mine thanks for the videos mine was the same motor wise but also it was not creating negative pressure and made my trailer smell like spent gas now it's perfect
Great video! Any tips for getting a stubborn exhaust vent out? 1:20 - for you it comes out so easily, but mine is apparently rusted in tight. I've been spraying it down with WD-40, removed the cap, and have been trying to twist the inner pipe with a wrench but it's not budging at all for me. I even slid a large socket into the pipe so I wouldn't crush it with the wrench - that's how hard I've been trying to break it loose.
Thank you. I'm sorry but I haven't had to deal with a rusted exhaust vent. It sounds like you have tried everything I would have thought of with the exception of one thing. Sometimes heat can help with rusted parts. Could you use a small propane torch and heat up the pipe from the inside as close to the joint as you can get? Then try the wrench and socket method. Be careful about the WD-40 if there is still some in there, it's highly flammable. Good luck with your project.
@@WannaBFree - So, I got it nice and toasty with a handheld propane torch and nothing... not even the slightest wiggle. I even re-soaked it with WD-40 while it was still fairly hot (fire extinguisher handy). When I wrench on it the whole heat exchanger is moving inside the housing. :( My goal is actually to get the gas valve and burner assembly out - it's not burning 'clean' (I can hear the flame gurgling and the exhaust smells "cold" if you know what I mean - like an engine that's just started & not warmed up). This suggests to me I'm getting incomplete combustion. Additionally, the furnace doesn't light unless I hold my hand over the exhaust while the ignitor is clicking. Again, a symptom of a dirty/faulty burner in my opinion. I've tipped the whole furnace every which way while banging on it and probably 2 full cups of 'rust crumbles' have fallen out. I think I've got most of it out and it has improved the gurgling and the smell a little, but it still won't light without my hand over the exhaust. Anyway, I'm tempted to try and remove the gas valve and burner by just working 'around' the exhaust tube. It's tight and I'll have to bend a few things, but it might work(??) Otherwise, not really sure what to do. Would be a shame to replace the whole thing just because I can't get the exhaust tube out.
@@truthsmiles Darn! Have you had a good look at the fresh air intake? Sometimes they can get bug nests in there that will impede the airflow into the burn chamber and cause it to not get a clean burn. I'm at a loss here and sorry to hear you were unable to get the rusted exhaust out.
@@WannaBFree - No worries and thanks for the suggestion! I'll keep working at it. Maybe if I ignore it for a couple of days it will let down its guard and I can sneak up on it and pull it out. :-) Regarding the intake, don't I need to get the exhaust tube out first? I might be able to get the gas valve and the burner assembly out without removing it, but it will require bending some metal. I might be able to examine the intake then, though.
I' having trouble getting mine out and I am going try your idea of using a match to heat up the squirrel cage side. I will let you know if it works for me. Thanks.
my biggest question is where can I find the wiring to the thermostat, or did it run to my old dometic controller in the ceiling. I replaced the bi-metal thermostat and control box with their new version lcd display (3 buttons)....
I have an 8531-II furnace. It will not kick on at all, no click or anything from my thermostat. my father-in-law ran it constantly in the North Dakota winter 2 years ago and he said it just quit working one day. Would you have an idea of where i could start to find out what the problem is? i did check my furnace fuse in the camper and it wasn't blown. i have a 1991 Dutchmen Classic fifth wheel.
Make sure you have gas flowing to the furnace of course. The next thing would be the control board. A bad board is a common cause of the furnace not working. They are fairly easy to remove and take it to an RV store and they will usually test it for you. If you need a new one they may have it. It will probably be from $50 to $80 to replace. Otherwise it could be several different things. Maybe a bad sail switch. They are only a few bucks if that is what it is. If the sail switch isn't working the furnace will never get gas so it won't light. One other item to check is make sure you have a good strong battery supplying power to the furnace. If the fan isn't turning up to speed it won't generate enough air flow to activate the sail switch. Hope this helps you out.
Man thanks for this video. I have followed this video but when I got to the fan, it is on by two red clamps. My model is the Atwood 8535-IV. I need to replace the fan motor but how do I slide off the fans after taking the clamps off. There are no Allen screws and they are stuck on the motor tight.
I am not familiar with that particular fan set up. If there are no set screws I would assume that maybe the fans are press fit on the motor shaft but truthfully I really don't know. You could try heating up the hub of the fan and then try a punch or press and see if it will come out. If you try that make sure when you are heating the hub just heat the hub. The idea is to heat the hub and have as little heat on the actual shaft as possible. If this works for removing the fans you can do just the opposite to install them on the new motor shaft. Heat the hub of the fan and then press it onto the new motor shaft. I hope this will work for you. Sorry I can't tell you for sure, I'm just guessing with this.
I will try and make it short!! My Atwood furnace sqeeled a couple time and the next morning it was on but very quiet like the blower motor was not working, very little heat was coming out of the floor vent, I looking it over from the outside very dusty? and i pushed I believe the reset button, it had a faint electrical burn smell, could it be the mother burned out? P:S at first the cage was barley spinning its not anymore?
See if you can get the fan cover off and try to turn the fan by hand. It should turn real easy and smooth. My experience is if it is squealing then you probably have shot bearings or bushings in the motor and that's why it's not turning very fast. If it doesn't, the bearings or bushings are probably shot and you'll need to install a new motor. If it does turn smoothly, the control board may be your problem and you'll have to replace it. The control board is a plug and play. Pull out the old one and take it to an RV shop and if you're lucky you'll be able to get a new one and plug it in and hopefully it will work again. The control board is a little pricey but cheaper to do it yourself and much cheaper than a new furnace. Hope this helps you out.
I think there is a allen screw on the small fan that you need to loosen, you can see the little hole in the metal shroud so you can send an allen wrench in to loosen it. I don't think you will have to heat the thing up if you loosen the screw.
Yes the fan does have a set screw and I had to loosen it. The fan was still not sliding off the shaft and that's why I applied the heat. I suppose the fan was stuck due to the age of the unit and the heat just helped loosen it enough so the fan could slide. I'm pretty sure that applying heat alone would not let the fan slide without loosening the set screw. Both were required to remove the fan on my heater. Good observation.
Sorry but I can't help you out on that one. I really have no idea what the difference is. It might just be a different wire set up for the connection If I were go guess. Maybe an RV parts shop would have the answer but I just don't know.
I installed my new furnace motor today and everything works except the air from the blower doesn't push up the lever to ignite the furnace even though the lever moves freely. I'm stumped. Will be dangerous to tape that lever down so I can get some heat.
Three items I would check. (1) Make sure your switch is working smoothly without obstructions. (2) Make sure your fan is not on backwards and blowing in the wrong direction. (3) It usually takes a good strong well charged battery to turn the fan fast enough to activate the sail switch. Make sure your battery is strong and well charged. Other than those items I don't know what else to check. Yes, it would be dangerous to tape down the switch. You could end up with un-burnt fumes in the heater and when the furnace lights "KABOOM"! It's not worth the risk in my opinion. I hope one of these will work for you. Good luck and be safe my friend.
I still can't get the blasted motor out! It wiggles a lot, and I can turn it a bit, but I tried the match, and I tried prying it... what else can I do?
David Carlyon My guess is the problem is where the fan is pressed onto the shaft. Best I can say is heat up the hub for about 30 to 45 seconds then if possible use a large flat tip screwdriver and try to pry the fan off. It may have some rust or corrosion keeping it from letting go. Also just confirm the set screw is loose or even removed completely.
David, I have a 8525 II and like you I have also been having difficulty but w help of WannaBFree`s video(thanks btw) I was at least able to see and know what to expect, after dousing w penetrating oil one day, then next day applying heat to hub for about a minute a few times it still would`nt budge & even w some tapping on shaft while tugging motor, what I found and had to do is place a set of vise grips on the left side(1st section) of shaft(close to motor), then secured the squirrel cage from moving by holding with my right hand and fingers, then turning the vise grips counter-clockwise in short turns(letting loose of the cage a bit and starting over from bottom w visegrips ) going back n forth like your loosening a screw while holding the cage, took about 10mins but this the only thing that worked for me. This had me stumped for 2 days on how to get this dang motor out but finally figured it out today. hope it helps you or others!
I still haven't gotten it out :/ Probably going to have somebody else finish it for me. I got the fan off (squirrel cage?), which I had to do like you said, but the motor itself won't come out. I haven't tried using a propane torch yet - I did try a lighter, but if heat's going to do it, it'll need more than the bbq lighter I was using.
I had to remove the little hex screw 100 percent then it came out. Used a magnet to retrieve it after opening the wheel assembly just enough to fit the magnet in. I also had taken a hammer to the shaft end and that caused the metal to form a lip which i filed down. Whew! Glad this is over.
Good Show! Haha "Bushings or *_Bearings_* " that Atwood/hydroflame stuff is made at absolutely _MINIMUM_ cost! , the price of a decent bearing would be near half the manufacturing cost of the entire motor
It's been a couple years since I made that video and I don't remember if I sail "Bushings or Bearings". Good point, I'm sure this motor has bushings. I'm sure that's why it wore out. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@WannaBFree IDK why outfits go to the trouble of building something like this motor (which conceivably could last my lifetime but opt to build it with parts that WILL fail) , mind you this motor is brushed so i guess that would determine life too ,,,, i guess it's just another example of the " race to the bottom" regarding consumerism
I agree 100%. I'm in my mid 50's and have seen over my life time the decline of quality products on the market. These days in the US the theme seems to be "sell junk and sell a lot of it". It is a very rare thing for a business to sell quality products these days. Buy it cheap and throw it away when it breaks or stops working. I'm about as frugal as it gets and I like to buy it cheap and fix it or improve it when it breaks. Then continue to use it 4 to 5 times past it's original lifespan. Ha Ha I get a kick out of doing that and it makes me feel like I got one over on the junk dealers in our modern society. LOL My observation is campers in general these days are made out of plastic and junk, they cost 10 times more than they used to when I was a kid and they definitely are NOT built to last. That is the main reason you will probably never see me buying a new camper these days. Just my opinion and no offense intended if you own one or want to own one. That original motor did make it 25 years and I'm sure that is well past it's expiration date so I suppose I can't complain. Take care and sorry for the rant. 😀👍
@@WannaBFree rant totally on target! I got about 20 years on Ya (most of them in remote areas where getting replacement really is not an option if you can't wait a year) ,, so I've come to accept (not like) the design and "throw-away" concept that producers have *forced* on an all too willing consumer for the sake of -affordability- !!!! Which in the long run it really is not!
Won't make any difference. Squirrel cage fan moves air the same direction no matter which direction it spins. It is a little more efficient when it spins in the direction it was designed.
Hey I had the same thing on mine last winter so over the summer I was going to take it a part clean it and fix what was wrong well I took it apart and it was all clean and looked great so I just bent the two rods closer together and put it back so the next time it rain I tried it out and worked good
@@randytboone1053 The rods should be gaped from each other 1/8 inch and 1/8 inch from the gas dispenser. The gas dispenser in that little screen thingie.....I know all the part names lol
Thanks for the great short and not blah blah blah tutorial. Very informative
Thanks for watching!
My motor is making that same rattling noise. Called a service guy, but he never called back ......soooo I figured if I can fix the heating element on my fridge, maybe I can tackle this. Your video gave me all the confidence I need ! Thank you sooooo much. I love the fact that you explain everything in detail. You made me crack up when you were trying to find the correct allan wrench. :) Can't wait to get started on this ! Woo Hoo !
That's awesome, hope it all goes well for you. I crack myself up sometimes too. LOL
Thanks Boss! Saved my ass...
I wasn’t able to get the exhaust off after removing that wing nut but was still able to get it done
Glad I could help!
pretty sure thats exactly whats goin on with mine, thanks for the video
You're welcome, I wish you the best with your fix.
Best Video EVER!!! I was looking for the location of the Thermal protection switch and your video showed it and how to easily access it!! Thanks so much!
I'm glad it helped you out.
The best way to easily remove the fans from the blower motor shaft is to hold the hub of the burner fan (right side) with channel locks while rotating the blower fan and simultaneously pulling it away from the motor. It should drop right off after a few turns. Then hold the exposed shaft on the left with channel locks and spin the burner fan off the same way. Took me about 3 minutes to pull both fans and the motor free.
Thank you so much for this video. it saved me a bunch of money for a service fee. now all I have to do is find the motor.
+force245 Glad to hear you can save some money using this video. Another benefit is you will know how your heater works so you can troubleshoot it yourself in the future if needed. Thanks for watching my video and it's good to know it is helping people.
+WannaBFree Type in your furnace model # on a Google search or Amazon and you will easily find the motor you need.
Thanks Very Helpful Video! It was a big help!
Glad it helped!
Thank you so much! Great video super detailed. Best one I’ve found. It would’ve been nice to hear what the motor sounded like before you replaced it as well to help others diagnose the symptoms. Just some feedback for next time. Bless and thank you
You are welcome! I agree it would have been nice to get a before video and audio of the motor before it went. It would occasionally squeal a time or two but that's about all the warning I had. By the time I realized it needed replaced, the fan did not come on at all. One time it worked and sounded normal then the next time it wouldn't run at all.
I would say if you hear the motor squeal you probably need to replace the motor as soon as possible because it may not work the next time you try to use the furnace. Hope this helps you out.
@@WannaBFree Exactly like mine did as well. It squealed like hell when if first came on, then stopped and would run great, every time I used it, then like he said, it just simply did nothing when I turned it on.
My motor when it was going was a loud and I mean loud squeal metal against metal terrifying. Thinks a couple more watches and I 'm good to go.
cheers buddy.... im Canadian and live in my 40ft'r, so i need my furnaces.... had no idea how to fix.... sure appreciate it!!
+urabampot I glad my video helped you out. Stay warm up there. :)
will do sunshine!! :)
Great view of the sail switch showing you only need to remove plastic motor cover to replace sail switch
hey thanks your video helped me get this done. One thing I could add: When I was removing the engine from the internal fan, I heated it but it was stubborn so I really ranked on it and bent the inside fan. It wobbled and scratched the cover when I put it back together. I took a screwdriver and bent the cover away so it doesn't hit, but you can still feel it wobbling. that inside fan appears to be difficult to get out of there so I'm dealing with it for now. My point is: be careful when taking that old engine out. don't bend that fan.
Your Video was a great help. A few suggestions I have is.1, Use a piece of Duct tape to hold the motor cover up above the work space.2, using a crescent wrench on the motor shaft to hold it from rotating while spinning the exhaust fan in order to remove the motor worked good for me. A quick squirt of WD-40 helped remove it.Note, Since the bearings on my motor are not bad, I was able to force High temp Lithium grease into each side of the shaft using tooth pics. Working it in as I rotated the shaft. I was amazed at how much I was able to squeeze in. the squealing has stopped, the lights no longer dim when the motor starts. I don't know how long this fix will last, but it will give me time to find a replacement motor at my convenience.Again, thanks for the Video, I couldn't have done it without your instruction.
+wagincrap All excellent ideas you have and sounds like you will extend the life of your motor. Glad to hear my video has helped you out. Thanks for watching.
greasing up the old motor didn't last longer than a week. so I ordered a new one and installed it in 30 min. thanks for your vid.
Well now you should be in good shape for a long time. Keep warm and thanks for watching.
Very helpful. Got the same project on a model III staring at me. Only this one is mounted vertical. It got noisy, took that cover off and found 6 fins broken out of the blower cage. Motor seems to have a lot of end play, so it's getting changed also. The R V is being used as a medical safe zone, so its got to work ... not a job you want to be doing in a snow storm!
Someone had been in this before, it appears that the black plastic cover over that fan was not re-installed correctly, which caused the fan damage ...
Glad to hear you are getting yours fixed up. Nothing worse than a heater that doesn't work when you need it the most. Thanks for watching.
@@WannaBFree Got it all buttoned up as daylight started to wain. The main cause of damage turned out to be ... a damned field mouse. Loads of fun removing the rest of him from the heat chamber!
Glad you got it all wrapped up. I know what you mean about the field mice. Darn things can cause a lot of issues with RV's and other things too. Good to hear you got it out of there and all fixed up. Take care!
Hello I unscrewed the Allen keys to both fan sides but I think the fan is seized as it will not come off any advice? I tried using penetrating oil too
Did you see in the video at 14:30 where I talk about heating the fan hub with a match to remove the fan from the retaining hub? A little heat on the hub expands the size of the hub just enough to let it release the fan. It may not always work but that's how I had to remove my fan.
@@WannaBFree thanks! I ended up rotating the two fans in alternate directions. That freed them up
awesome I did mine thanks for the videos
mine was the same motor wise but also it was not creating negative pressure and made my trailer smell like spent gas now it's perfect
Glad to hear you got yours sorted out. It's quickly becoming that time of year. Stay warm and thanks for watching.
Great video! Any tips for getting a stubborn exhaust vent out? 1:20 - for you it comes out so easily, but mine is apparently rusted in tight. I've been spraying it down with WD-40, removed the cap, and have been trying to twist the inner pipe with a wrench but it's not budging at all for me. I even slid a large socket into the pipe so I wouldn't crush it with the wrench - that's how hard I've been trying to break it loose.
Thank you. I'm sorry but I haven't had to deal with a rusted exhaust vent. It sounds like you have tried everything I would have thought of with the exception of one thing. Sometimes heat can help with rusted parts. Could you use a small propane torch and heat up the pipe from the inside as close to the joint as you can get? Then try the wrench and socket method. Be careful about the WD-40 if there is still some in there, it's highly flammable. Good luck with your project.
WannaBFree - Great tip! I’ll give it a shot thank you! I’ll let you know how it goes :)
@@WannaBFree - So, I got it nice and toasty with a handheld propane torch and nothing... not even the slightest wiggle. I even re-soaked it with WD-40 while it was still fairly hot (fire extinguisher handy). When I wrench on it the whole heat exchanger is moving inside the housing. :(
My goal is actually to get the gas valve and burner assembly out - it's not burning 'clean' (I can hear the flame gurgling and the exhaust smells "cold" if you know what I mean - like an engine that's just started & not warmed up). This suggests to me I'm getting incomplete combustion. Additionally, the furnace doesn't light unless I hold my hand over the exhaust while the ignitor is clicking. Again, a symptom of a dirty/faulty burner in my opinion. I've tipped the whole furnace every which way while banging on it and probably 2 full cups of 'rust crumbles' have fallen out. I think I've got most of it out and it has improved the gurgling and the smell a little, but it still won't light without my hand over the exhaust.
Anyway, I'm tempted to try and remove the gas valve and burner by just working 'around' the exhaust tube. It's tight and I'll have to bend a few things, but it might work(??) Otherwise, not really sure what to do. Would be a shame to replace the whole thing just because I can't get the exhaust tube out.
@@truthsmiles Darn! Have you had a good look at the fresh air intake? Sometimes they can get bug nests in there that will impede the airflow into the burn chamber and cause it to not get a clean burn. I'm at a loss here and sorry to hear you were unable to get the rusted exhaust out.
@@WannaBFree - No worries and thanks for the suggestion! I'll keep working at it. Maybe if I ignore it for a couple of days it will let down its guard and I can sneak up on it and pull it out. :-)
Regarding the intake, don't I need to get the exhaust tube out first? I might be able to get the gas valve and the burner assembly out without removing it, but it will require bending some metal. I might be able to examine the intake then, though.
Thank you sir. Great video. You are about to save me a few bucks having a service call.
+Lewis Schatzdorfer You are welcome, I'm glad my video helped you out. Take care.
Thanks for your quick response, I will go ahead a change it,,,
Thank you, this was very helpful!!!
You are welcome, I'm glad it helped. 😀
I' having trouble getting mine out and I am going try your idea of using a match to heat up the squirrel cage side. I will let you know if it works for me. Thanks.
+Richard Messer I hope it works for you. Anxious to hear if it works for you.
my biggest question is where can I find the wiring to the thermostat, or did it run to my old dometic controller in the ceiling. I replaced the bi-metal thermostat and control box with their new version lcd display (3 buttons)....
That's a good question. I don't have the answer to it.
@@WannaBFree There is a youtube video that covers those wires
I have an 8531-II furnace. It will not kick on at all, no click or anything from my thermostat. my father-in-law ran it constantly in the North Dakota winter 2 years ago and he said it just quit working one day. Would you have an idea of where i could start to find out what the problem is? i did check my furnace fuse in the camper and it wasn't blown. i have a 1991 Dutchmen Classic fifth wheel.
Make sure you have gas flowing to the furnace of course. The next thing would be the control board. A bad board is a common cause of the furnace not working. They are fairly easy to remove and take it to an RV store and they will usually test it for you. If you need a new one they may have it. It will probably be from $50 to $80 to replace. Otherwise it could be several different things. Maybe a bad sail switch. They are only a few bucks if that is what it is. If the sail switch isn't working the furnace will never get gas so it won't light. One other item to check is make sure you have a good strong battery supplying power to the furnace. If the fan isn't turning up to speed it won't generate enough air flow to activate the sail switch. Hope this helps you out.
Man thanks for this video. I have followed this video but when I got to the fan, it is on by two red clamps. My model is the Atwood 8535-IV. I need to replace the fan motor but how do I slide off the fans after taking the clamps off. There are no Allen screws and they are stuck on the motor tight.
I am not familiar with that particular fan set up. If there are no set screws I would assume that maybe the fans are press fit on the motor shaft but truthfully I really don't know. You could try heating up the hub of the fan and then try a punch or press and see if it will come out. If you try that make sure when you are heating the hub just heat the hub. The idea is to heat the hub and have as little heat on the actual shaft as possible. If this works for removing the fans you can do just the opposite to install them on the new motor shaft. Heat the hub of the fan and then press it onto the new motor shaft. I hope this will work for you. Sorry I can't tell you for sure, I'm just guessing with this.
Thanks for the video. Great job. Just the info I needed.
+Jerry Tilley You are welcome and thanks for watching. Good luck with your project.
Can also see the limit switch once the fan is removed
I will try and make it short!! My Atwood furnace sqeeled a couple time and the next morning it was on but very quiet like the blower motor was not working, very little heat was coming out of the floor vent, I looking it over from the outside very dusty? and i pushed I believe the reset button, it had a faint electrical burn smell, could it be the mother burned out? P:S at first the cage was barley spinning its not anymore?
See if you can get the fan cover off and try to turn the fan by hand. It should turn real easy and smooth. My experience is if it is squealing then you probably have shot bearings or bushings in the motor and that's why it's not turning very fast. If it doesn't, the bearings or bushings are probably shot and you'll need to install a new motor. If it does turn smoothly, the control board may be your problem and you'll have to replace it. The control board is a plug and play. Pull out the old one and take it to an RV shop and if you're lucky you'll be able to get a new one and plug it in and hopefully it will work again. The control board is a little pricey but cheaper to do it yourself and much cheaper than a new furnace. Hope this helps you out.
I think there is a allen screw on the small fan that you need to loosen, you can see the little hole in the metal shroud so you can send an allen wrench in to loosen it. I don't think you will have to heat the thing up if you loosen the screw.
Yes the fan does have a set screw and I had to loosen it. The fan was still not sliding off the shaft and that's why I applied the heat. I suppose the fan was stuck due to the age of the unit and the heat just helped loosen it enough so the fan could slide. I'm pretty sure that applying heat alone would not let the fan slide without loosening the set screw. Both were required to remove the fan on my heater. Good observation.
Man You got some cool ideas and must live pretty close IO live in pueblo just getting my van going
Spanky Goodone Thank you, sorry I didn't reply earlier but YT comments have been giving me trouble lately.
would you know if there is a difference between 8535-3 and 8535-2 I have and 8535-3 blower motor. I don't know what the -3or -2 is?
Sorry but I can't help you out on that one. I really have no idea what the difference is. It might just be a different wire set up for the connection If I were go guess. Maybe an RV parts shop would have the answer but I just don't know.
I installed my new furnace motor today and everything works except the air from the blower doesn't push up the lever to ignite the furnace even though the lever moves freely.
I'm stumped. Will be dangerous to tape that lever down so I can get some heat.
Three items I would check. (1) Make sure your switch is working smoothly without obstructions. (2) Make sure your fan is not on backwards and blowing in the wrong direction. (3) It usually takes a good strong well charged battery to turn the fan fast enough to activate the sail switch. Make sure your battery is strong and well charged. Other than those items I don't know what else to check. Yes, it would be dangerous to tape down the switch. You could end up with un-burnt fumes in the heater and when the furnace lights "KABOOM"! It's not worth the risk in my opinion. I hope one of these will work for you. Good luck and be safe my friend.
NEVER TAPE THAT LEVER OR RISK DIEING!!!!
Thanks for the info, need to replace exactly the same motor
You are welcome, good luck with your project.
looking for a motor replacement 8535-11 any info where can get one
I would just do a google search. I have had success with amazon or ebay.
I still can't get the blasted motor out! It wiggles a lot, and I can turn it a bit, but I tried the match, and I tried prying it... what else can I do?
David Carlyon My guess is the problem is where the fan is pressed onto the shaft. Best I can say is heat up the hub for about 30 to 45 seconds then if possible use a large flat tip screwdriver and try to pry the fan off. It may have some rust or corrosion keeping it from letting go. Also just confirm the set screw is loose or even removed completely.
David, I have a 8525 II and like you I have also been having difficulty but w help of WannaBFree`s video(thanks btw) I was at least able to see and know what to expect,
after dousing w penetrating oil one day, then next day applying heat to hub for about a minute a few times it still would`nt budge & even w some tapping on shaft while tugging motor, what I found and had to do is place a set of vise grips on the left side(1st section) of shaft(close to motor), then secured the squirrel cage from moving by holding with my right hand and fingers, then turning the vise grips counter-clockwise in short turns(letting loose of the cage a bit and starting over from bottom w visegrips ) going back n forth like your loosening a screw while holding the cage, took about 10mins but this the only thing that worked for me. This had me stumped for 2 days on how to get this dang motor out but finally figured it out today. hope it helps you or others!
You Knowwho. I'll give it a try....ahhhhh
I still haven't gotten it out :/ Probably going to have somebody else finish it for me. I got the fan off (squirrel cage?), which I had to do like you said, but the motor itself won't come out. I haven't tried using a propane torch yet - I did try a lighter, but if heat's going to do it, it'll need more than the bbq lighter I was using.
I had to remove the little hex screw 100 percent then it came out. Used a magnet to retrieve it after opening the wheel assembly just enough to fit the magnet in. I also had taken a hammer to the shaft end and that caused the metal to form a lip which i filed down. Whew! Glad this is over.
So where is part two where you install it?
Good Show! Haha "Bushings or *_Bearings_* " that Atwood/hydroflame stuff is made at absolutely _MINIMUM_ cost! , the price of a decent bearing would be near half the manufacturing cost of the entire motor
It's been a couple years since I made that video and I don't remember if I sail "Bushings or Bearings". Good point, I'm sure this motor has bushings. I'm sure that's why it wore out. Thanks for pointing that out.
@@WannaBFree IDK why outfits go to the trouble of building something like this motor (which conceivably could last my lifetime but opt to build it with parts that WILL fail) , mind you this motor is brushed so i guess that would determine life too ,,,, i guess it's just another example of the " race to the bottom" regarding consumerism
I agree 100%. I'm in my mid 50's and have seen over my life time the decline of quality products on the market. These days in the US the theme seems to be "sell junk and sell a lot of it". It is a very rare thing for a business to sell quality products these days. Buy it cheap and throw it away when it breaks or stops working. I'm about as frugal as it gets and I like to buy it cheap and fix it or improve it when it breaks. Then continue to use it 4 to 5 times past it's original lifespan. Ha Ha I get a kick out of doing that and it makes me feel like I got one over on the junk dealers in our modern society. LOL My observation is campers in general these days are made out of plastic and junk, they cost 10 times more than they used to when I was a kid and they definitely are NOT built to last. That is the main reason you will probably never see me buying a new camper these days. Just my opinion and no offense intended if you own one or want to own one. That original motor did make it 25 years and I'm sure that is well past it's expiration date so I suppose I can't complain. Take care and sorry for the rant. 😀👍
@@WannaBFree rant totally on target! I got about 20 years on Ya (most of them in remote areas where getting replacement really is not an option if you can't wait a year) ,, so I've come to accept (not like) the design and "throw-away" concept that producers have *forced* on an all too willing consumer for the sake of -affordability- !!!! Which in the long run it really is not!
1/8th inch allen
Furnace comes on but cuts right off any information
Sorry but I don't have any info for you on that issue. I haven't encountered that problem before.
UDAMAN!
Glad it helped you out :)
my furnace will not kick on
Yeah if you get the motor wires switched it will run in reverse!
That is true :)
Won't make any difference. Squirrel cage fan moves air the same direction no matter which direction it spins.
It is a little more efficient when it spins in the direction it was designed.
I have a hydro flame furnace 8531-11 it works fine until it starts raining then it will not ignite anyone ever experience this
Sorry but I have no experience with that issue.
Hey I had the same thing on mine last winter so over the summer I was going to take it a part clean it and fix what was wrong well I took it apart and it was all clean and looked great so I just bent the two rods closer together and put it back so the next time it rain I tried it out and worked good
@@randytboone1053 The rods should be gaped from each other 1/8 inch and 1/8 inch from the gas dispenser. The gas dispenser in that little screen thingie.....I know all the part names lol