I have this same furnace model in mine, the blower doesnt hum or move. I cant get any reading with my multimeter so I dont think it's getting any power. Is there a way to test it with a battery without removing the furnace from its mount? Edit: I found the issue. It was that 4 pronged relay on the top right that was bad. It works good now.
I have this same furnace in my 1990 Ford/Fleetwood Arrow. It has been working sporadically since I bought the RV a couple of months ago. It would be working fine when I went to bed, and blowing cold air when I woke up. The fan squeals when it first starts now, but only blows cold air. Sometimes after I drive the RV a while it will turn on and work fine until it turns off, then back to blowing cold air. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's not the Regulator, I just replaced that and it made no difference. I have no idea where the Sail Switch is or how to get at it, and getting behind it to unhook the wiring is virtually impossible as it's under the floor, under the sink.
My duo therm Thermostat a.c./furnace will not pull up furnace mode only a.c. or a.c. fans in ceiling..bought new thermostat.$110 ..same result..will not even display furnace will pushing mode button...Any help will be appreciated.,thanks
hello,, J&B,,H its always good to know how to fix things when there down,, our first frost will be October, 23d going by the almanac,, it wont be long,, I cut wood yesterday,, to heat one of my barns,, cutting wood in 90`heat ,, when is your first and last frost date were you live,, ok god bless there Joe,, ,thanks ,,James,,,
trugreenguy you have a big long extension to reach down and get those bolts on the bottom, and if memory serves me correct you have a couple of C-clamp looking things that you have to take off as well and you also have to have a very long screwdriver
Can someone please help me?? My Atwood furnace fan will not turn on, to supply heat to my trailer. I was told by the dealership repair department that my problem with my Grand Design 2015 trailer, might be a high limit switch or an air blockage. Anyone else have a similar problem?? Where is the high limit switch located? Can it be manually reset, or do I need to replace it? How can I tell if I need a new switch. If I need to replace it, do I get to it from inside the trailer, or from outside? Can anyone also tell me if the Atwood furnace also has an air filter that needs to be replaced? Any answer to these questions would be appreciated. Thank you! Michael
Hi Michael, OK first things first being your trailer is a 2015 the Atwood furnace has been redesigned where the DSI board dose all the work. First I would check the fuses in your power converter, if the fuse for the furnace is blown then the motor wont start up. Second there should be a breaker in behind the outside cover that may need to be reset, it's located on the blower housing. you will have to remove the outside cover first to gain access. The high limit switch the repair department is referring to is located in behind the blower fan and the heat chamber and is quite difficult to access as you will have to remove the blower fan and motor assembly to get to the limit switch, this switch controls the high temperature of the heat chamber when the unit is running, - It sounds like you are having trouble from when the unit is cold and you are calling for heat, that being said on some thermostats there is a off switch on the thermostat itself located at the bottom to the left if this is in the off position then you wont get any response from the furnace itself till you flip that switch to the left and allow the thermostat to close. Hope this helps let me know if you need more walking though Text me at 250-899-5832 or email me at graceauto_2004@yahoo.ca as Im up here in Canada
Having trouble getting my atwood furnace to ignite. I've replaced the electrode, thermostat and DSi board with a universal. 31501. And can still not get the darn thing to work. Any body got any suggestions. Could sure use them asap. Wife is freezing....
try turning the thermostat wide open and then turn it on our s takes about 15 - 20 seconds to cut on, and make sure the propane tanks are on as well full of gas
I was playing around with the thermostat here and I have noticed that if I have the furnace off 4A good amount of time. that I have to turn the thermostat all the way down and I will hear a little cling, and then I will turn the furnace on and then raise the temperature to whatever setting I like. and then within 20 seconds the furnace kicks on hope this helps
Hi there David, if you are still having trouble the last culprit is the sail switch that can cause the issue as well as oxidising will cause the burner from igniting and dust contamination to will cause the switch to become inoperable, being that you replaced the board with a universal unit tells me its the updated dsi with fan control, well first how old is your unit and what model 8531-III or 8531-II or 8531-IV/ the furnace is recognised as the 8500 series the 31 stands for BTU output and the - with roman numeral stands for the generation from second - third - or fourth. another culprit is the high tension wire going to the igniter, if it is the colour orange then you should be fine as they are more durable and are silicone covered, but in the newer units the wire was upgraded to a lighter covered red coating that has a tenancy to leak voltage to ground if it gets wet and the board might shut the burner down and will try to relight as it is trying to see the flame. The other problem these furnaces have is the dsi board is to close to the outer sheath and if water gets in there the board wont function at all and might short out. I was also pointing out in another reply that the regulator can cause problems as oil residue builds up over time and will collect in the low pressure hose at the lowest point before going to the iron pipe that feeds the trailer, you will get a pulsing flow and can verify this from the stove by light a burner and studying the flame if it pulses then your regulator and low pressure hose need attention where the hose can be cleaned after being disconnected and drained out and the regulator will have to be replaced if really gummed up let me know if this helps
we rarely ever use the furnace, we use the two front burners on the stove turned on low. we turn the furnace on before we go to bed later heated up real good and then turn it turn it off and turn the stove on and then if it gets real cold will turn the furnace on in conjunction with the two stove eyes
Can someone help me diagnose my mom's trailer furnace problem. It completely quit, so my brother took it in to be repaired and they replaced the control board $300. Then it worked but randomly would not come back on automatically. Called an RV guy and he replaced the thermostat $245. Ran good for that day now won't stay on to set temp and has to be manually reset to come back on. 😕
Darla Burkett Geez...we are having something similar. However, ours doesn't come on at all once it quits. Mobile repair has come 3 x replacing motherboard, technician switch and so forth. Next time he said blower might need to be replaced...ahhhhhh!!! $$$$$ We have not even had it 3 weeks!
Ok first these motors use bushings that are lubricated by felt wicks and if needed can be re oiled by carefully pulling the motor apart getting it back together is tricky and requires a lot of patience take your time
I've got an Atwood furnace in my 2002 Holiday Rambler Alumiscape. Recently it started making one heck of a loud noise like grinding. Fires up great and blows the hot air fine for several minutes then boom here comes trouble. Not sure what the problem is , blower motor, fan. Want to fix it myself as all estimates are way out of bounds money wise. Any suggestions from you all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Richard H.
Hey are you well versed in these heaters??? I have the same model. Here are all my specs Hydro flame Serial #: 0121512 Model #: 8531-111 Input btu: 31000 Output btu: 23560 Amps: 8.2 Watts: 98 And I was wondering if maybe you could lend me some advice???
ok you have the third generation 8500 series which sad to say is going to be soon hard to find parts as this model is obsolete, what is your furnace not doing as there is allot of problem points to take into consideration , let me know
I have this same furnace in my 1990 Ford/Fleetwood Arrow. It has been working sporadically since I bought the RV a couple of months ago. It would be working fine when I went to bed, and blowing cold air when I woke up. The fan squeals when it first starts now, but only blows cold air. Sometimes after I drive the RV a while it will turn on and work fine until it turns off, then back to blowing cold air. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's not the Regulator, I just replaced that and it made no difference. I have no idea where the Sail Switch is or how to get at it, and getting behind it to unhook the wiring is virtually impossible as it's under the floor, under the sink.
@@jbshomestead7694 I don't think that's the problem. I'm plugged in to 30 amp and my Batteries are fine. Everything else works as it should and the Battery indicator says good.
I'm having same issue, it's probably your blower motor, that's getting stuck or not spinning fast enough for your sail switch to engage, also check the actual burner head, mine was rusted out, wouldn't ignite. Fixed burner head works, now blower motor is failing.
I have this same furnace model in mine, the blower doesnt hum or move. I cant get any reading with my multimeter so I dont think it's getting any power. Is there a way to test it with a battery without removing the furnace from its mount?
Edit: I found the issue. It was that 4 pronged relay on the top right that was bad. It works good now.
My furnace has good flame heats great. The problem is that it blows black smoke out the exhaust. Help
I have this same furnace in my 1990 Ford/Fleetwood Arrow. It has been working sporadically since I bought the RV a couple of months ago. It would be working fine when I went to bed, and blowing cold air when I woke up. The fan squeals when it first starts now, but only blows cold air. Sometimes after I drive the RV a while it will turn on and work fine until it turns off, then back to blowing cold air. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's not the Regulator, I just replaced that and it made no difference. I have no idea where the Sail Switch is or how to get at it, and getting behind it to unhook the wiring is virtually impossible as it's under the floor, under the sink.
I have the 1983 and having issues getting her started myself
My duo therm Thermostat a.c./furnace will not pull up furnace mode only a.c. or a.c. fans in ceiling..bought new thermostat.$110 ..same result..will not even display furnace will pushing mode button...Any help will be appreciated.,thanks
hello,, J&B,,H its always good to know how to fix things when there down,, our first frost will be October, 23d going by the almanac,, it wont be long,, I cut wood yesterday,, to heat one of my barns,, cutting wood in 90`heat ,, when is your first and last frost date were you live,, ok god bless there Joe,, ,thanks ,,James,,,
I dont have a almanac, but it usally starts to frost in mid Oct.
how on earth do you get the heat changer out all the way? I can't seem to get it out. I got the 8531-IV Trying round two again this evening.
trugreenguy you have a big long extension to reach down and get those bolts on the bottom, and if memory serves me correct you have a couple of C-clamp looking things that you have to take off as well and you also have to have a very long screwdriver
Can someone please help me?? My Atwood furnace fan will not turn on, to supply heat to my trailer. I was told by the dealership repair department that my problem with my Grand Design 2015 trailer, might be a high limit switch or an air blockage. Anyone else have a similar problem?? Where is the high limit switch located? Can it be manually reset, or do I need to replace it? How can I tell if I need a new switch. If I need to replace it, do I get to it from inside the trailer, or from outside? Can anyone also tell me if the Atwood furnace also has an air filter that needs to be replaced? Any answer to these questions would be appreciated. Thank you! Michael
Michael Manna behind your fan
Hi Michael, OK first things first being your trailer is a 2015 the Atwood furnace has been redesigned where the DSI board dose all the work. First I would check the fuses in your power converter, if the fuse for the furnace is blown then the motor wont start up. Second there should be a breaker in behind the outside cover that may need to be reset, it's located on the blower housing. you will have to remove the outside cover first to gain access. The high limit switch the repair department is referring to is located in behind the blower fan and the heat chamber and is quite difficult to access as you will have to remove the blower fan and motor assembly to get to the limit switch, this switch controls the high temperature of the heat chamber when the unit is running, - It sounds like you are having trouble from when the unit is cold and you are calling for heat, that being said on some thermostats there is a off switch on the thermostat itself located at the bottom to the left if this is in the off position then you wont get any response from the furnace itself till you flip that switch to the left and allow the thermostat to close. Hope this helps let me know if you need more walking though Text me at 250-899-5832 or email me at graceauto_2004@yahoo.ca as Im up here in Canada
Having trouble getting my atwood furnace to ignite. I've replaced the electrode, thermostat and DSi board with a universal. 31501. And can still not get the darn thing to work. Any body got any suggestions. Could sure use them asap. Wife is freezing....
try turning the thermostat wide open and then turn it on our s takes about 15 - 20 seconds to cut on, and make sure the propane tanks are on as well full of gas
I was playing around with the thermostat here and I have noticed that if I have the furnace off 4A good amount of time. that I have to turn the thermostat all the way down and I will hear a little cling, and then I will turn the furnace on and then raise the temperature to whatever setting I like. and then within 20 seconds the furnace kicks on hope this helps
Hi there David, if you are still having trouble the last culprit is the sail switch that can cause the issue as well as oxidising will cause the burner from igniting and dust contamination to will cause the switch to become inoperable, being that you replaced the board with a universal unit tells me its the updated dsi with fan control, well first how old is your unit and what model 8531-III or 8531-II or 8531-IV/ the furnace is recognised as the 8500 series the 31 stands for BTU output and the - with roman numeral stands for the generation from second - third - or fourth. another culprit is the high tension wire going to the igniter, if it is the colour orange then you should be fine as they are more durable and are silicone covered, but in the newer units the wire was upgraded to a lighter covered red coating that has a tenancy to leak voltage to ground if it gets wet and the board might shut the burner down and will try to relight as it is trying to see the flame. The other problem these furnaces have is the dsi board is to close to the outer sheath and if water gets in there the board wont function at all and might short out. I was also pointing out in another reply that the regulator can cause problems as oil residue builds up over time and will collect in the low pressure hose at the lowest point before going to the iron pipe that feeds the trailer, you will get a pulsing flow and can verify this from the stove by light a burner and studying the flame if it pulses then your regulator and low pressure hose need attention where the hose can be cleaned after being disconnected and drained out and the regulator will have to be replaced if really gummed up let me know if this helps
having trouble getting my furnace back on after it run out of gas. it is a hydro flame (8531-11) got new tank and it full
turn the thermostat up until you hear a click and then turn the furnace on and it should kick on and 15 to 20 seconds
we rarely ever use the furnace, we use the two front burners on the stove turned on low. we turn the furnace on before we go to bed later heated up real good and then turn it turn it off and turn the stove on and then if it gets real cold will turn the furnace on in conjunction with the two stove eyes
Can someone help me diagnose my mom's trailer furnace problem. It completely quit, so my brother took it in to be repaired and they replaced the control board $300. Then it worked but randomly would not come back on automatically. Called an RV guy and he replaced the thermostat $245. Ran good for that day now won't stay on to set temp and has to be manually reset to come back on. 😕
Darla Burkett Geez...we are having something similar. However, ours doesn't come on at all once it quits. Mobile repair has come 3 x replacing motherboard, technician switch and so forth. Next time he said blower might need to be replaced...ahhhhhh!!! $$$$$ We have not even had it 3 weeks!
my air furnace look same is the slow fan motor . I did fix to oil bearing motor test now better fast fan blowing very good for save money it.
awesome
Ok first these motors use bushings that are lubricated by felt wicks and if needed can be re oiled by carefully pulling the motor apart getting it back together is tricky and requires a lot of patience take your time
I've got an Atwood furnace in my 2002 Holiday Rambler Alumiscape. Recently it started making one heck of a loud noise like grinding. Fires up great and blows the hot air fine for several minutes then boom here comes trouble. Not sure what the problem is , blower motor, fan. Want to fix it myself as all estimates are way out of bounds money wise. Any suggestions from you all would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Richard H.
I would have to hear it run b4 i could give an idea of what the problem would be
@@jbshomestead7694 I could fire it up and try to get a good audio to send you. Don't know if that would work. All I know is that it very cold here...
Hey are you well versed in these heaters??? I have the same model. Here are all my specs
Hydro flame
Serial #: 0121512
Model #: 8531-111
Input btu: 31000
Output btu: 23560
Amps: 8.2
Watts: 98
And I was wondering if maybe you could lend me some advice???
ok you have the third generation 8500 series which sad to say is going to be soon hard to find parts as this model is obsolete, what is your furnace not doing as there is allot of problem points to take into consideration , let me know
I have this same furnace in my 1990 Ford/Fleetwood Arrow. It has been working sporadically since I bought the RV a couple of months ago. It would be working fine when I went to bed, and blowing cold air when I woke up. The fan squeals when it first starts now, but only blows cold air. Sometimes after I drive the RV a while it will turn on and work fine until it turns off, then back to blowing cold air. Any ideas would be appreciated. It's not the Regulator, I just replaced that and it made no difference. I have no idea where the Sail Switch is or how to get at it, and getting behind it to unhook the wiring is virtually impossible as it's under the floor, under the sink.
it sounds like it's the battery.
@@jbshomestead7694 I don't think that's the problem. I'm plugged in to 30 amp and my Batteries are fine. Everything else works as it should and the Battery indicator says good.
@@jamesbangert7284 turn the thermostat up until you hear a click and then turn the furnace on and it should kick on and 15 to 20 seconds
@@jbshomestead7694 It should, but it doesn't. For some reason the burner in the furnace won't light.
I'm having same issue, it's probably your blower motor, that's getting stuck or not spinning fast enough for your sail switch to engage, also check the actual burner head, mine was rusted out, wouldn't ignite. Fixed burner head works, now blower motor is failing.