BAD 2017 Range Rover Sport 3.0 V6 Diesel (POWERSTROKE?) Engine Teardown
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ธ.ค. 2023
- For parts Email us at Importapartsales@gmail.com or visit www.Importapart.com!
Thanks to @PowerStrokeTechTalkwARod and @CPsGarage for some quite helpful tips for this teardown.
Here's weekly dose of your catastrophic engine forensics! Every week you can find a new teardown of some abused, misused and/or poorly designed engine. I've got over 160 videos of failed engine teardowns on this channel.
Today's teardown is a 3.0L Turbodiesel V6 from a 2017 Range Rover Sport. This is the Jaguar-Land Rover TDV6 that has been found in many Jaguar and Land Rover vehicles for the past decade. This engine puts out 253hp and 440ft lbs of torque. For the 2018 model year, Ford adapted the basic engine, redressed it and offered it as an optional power plant for the F150 through 2021. There are some differences between the JLR 3.0 Diesel and the 3.0 Powerstroke but its almost exclusively external components with few exceptions.
This engine seems to be a returned as defective engine from another salvage yard judging by the paint, heat tabs and stock numbers written on it. It was CLEARLY bad, but how did this fail?
Why am I doing this? My name is Eric and I own and run a full service auto salvage business in the Saint Louis area called Importapart. Part of our model includes dismantling core and blown engines to salvage and resell the good components. We do not rebuild engines, but merely supply parts to people who do!
I really hope you enjoyed this teardown and as always, I love all of the comments, feedback and even the criticism!
Catch you on the next one!
-Eric - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
I was worried about Blue being busted before the ratchet. I don’t miss the ratchet, but i mighta cried if Blue was broken.
Yes,
Blue to the rescue ,
I was hoping he would have to use the fire extinguisher to put out any mahem...
Yeah I was concerned about Blue! Blue is a real trooper, and fortunately yet to be defeated!
should know better than to brute force a ratchet tbh, pure chinesium. also eric, in the past i've jammed in a wooden block between the big ends and the engine block. that works to stop the crank turning without damage, in a cast iron block at least.
@@martin-vv9lf That was my thought after the first time a bolt snapped.
Hello Eric: You gave a big clue when you mentioned the Lion. My educated guess is that this engine was in a land rover that was used for offroading and mudbogging. They boiled it trying to get it out of a mud or swamp hole and damaged it. Probably not enough to kill the engine completely but enough to require replacemebt.The hole in the oil pan another good clue to typical offroading damage.I would say they STEAMED it to death. Henc all the water vapor condensation rust pitting. Just this old guy witn many off road vehicle trips ending poorly, putting his 2 cents worth in before 2024. Happy New Year and continued successin 2024.😂
Eric, the scoring looks a lot like a bad injector washing raw fuel down the cylinder walls. I've seen it a time or 2 at work repairing fork lifts. Look at the injectors again, you'll notice one is wet, and black as can be. The rest are kinda krispy brown.
Yeah, bad injector dumping tons of fuel.
Cylinder wash down was my first thought too.
Bingo!!
If there were excess fuel in the cylinder 1) It would quickly cause cylinder hydrolocking 2) We would see lots of fuel present in the cylinder, the cylinder looks bone dry.
I would venture a guess, moisture got into cylinder, rusted the piston rings and fused the ring(s) to piston, gouging the cylinder walls
It appears this engine sat around for a long time with moisture in it, when the engine was restarted that's when the piston damage occurred.
Yep, leaking injector, also seams to do it in away that it's hard to notice before it's to late. Even worse on the 4cyl diesel Ford.
45:22 - yes, crank worth money. They crack and are sought after😉
BTW - To lock crank from rotation - put a block of wood between counterweight and block wall. Super simple, wood protects everything from dents.
The crank is going into 2 peaces in this V6 that`s why it is so popular. Some POS, but the new 3.0 ltr Ford as mentioned is almost the same engine but another crank!!..... but what`s the different?
I was so worried that Blue was going to get hurt. I don't think I could handle anything happening to him.
Looks like blue has a terrible gouge across his body
Blue needs his own show!
I think the destroyed cylinder and piston might be from a bad injector dripping fuel into the cylinder. You may wanna have all the injectors tested.
dont think he sells em just put em in same bin as water pumps etc
@@TCBOT I wouldn't buy second hand injectors, so that makes sense. But it might give a clearer picture of what lead to the destruction of this engine.
@@TCBOT You can get used injectors for some vehicles. They can get costly enough to where they are tested or rebuilt. I think its mostly in diesels.
I sell them, but on diesels like this they are almost always sold as rebuildable cores and not something to simply install right away.
Exactly what I was going to comment… a leaky/bad injector(s)… from what I can see, nothing else looks to be showing signs of overheating.
Why doesn't Land Rover make computers?
They couldn't figure out how to make them leak oil.
Happy New Year!
Watch them make mineral oil cooled ECUs next 😂😂😂
That's good stuff, thanks for the chuckle. Happy New Year.
It’s ok. They can make them leak magic smoke instead.
LOLZ
No manufacturer has turned more owners into mechanics over the decades than Land Rover has!
It was termoflot in the middle of engine, which mixed water in oil through time, there are known issues with these engines. Water damage on axles and chains was due to condesation of water vapors from oil, when cold outside. So it was working on poor lubrication and one bad injector which melted piston. Junk
Eric, just found the channel a month or so ago. I retired from the auto repair business 3 years ago after 50+ years. I started as a VW apprentice in 1968 and retired as Porsche shop foreman. I've seen and repaired my share of blown engines but you take the damage to another level! Some of the dumb designs I've seen flabbergast me, the timing belt running in oil comes to mind. Keep up the great content. Wonderful entertainment and love your humor/sarcasm. Scott
It may be a little early, but a great April fools prank may involve tearing down a lawn mower/lawn tractor/zero turn engine, go cart or boat engine :)
or even better an engine rebuild 😎
A bizzaro teardown?
Even better would be an engine tear down but just played in reverse. 😅
Just say it out of a Chinese car.
Or better yet, take a Techumseh snow blower engine and, as an April Fools Prank, say it's out of a Tesla Model 3. :D
There's a problem with the injectors for these engines that can total them. If one injector sticks open then the cylinder it feeds runs too hot and kills the piston. Helping a friend find a Disco 4 earlier this year there were 4 or 5 advertised in our area at about 30% market price, still running with the seller generally saying they didn't know what the problem was but the engine wouldn't run right. A bit of research soon revealed these were not a bargain, the cost to fix it would just about match the market value.
Fords 2.2 diesel does the same. Injectors stick on and either crack or put a hole in the piston.
It might also look like it had possibly a failing EGR cooler as well from all the light rust pitting in the bores. But yeah stuck injector is what it looks like on that one with all the scoring.
35:25 ,must be the extended 15mm Snap Off wrench 💥🔧
I seen this happen in the 3.0 Duramax a couple of times. To me it looks like injector failure…… only because only one cylinder was effected. If it was overheated it would be multiple cylinders with scarring like that. Injector failure is very common. Just my 2 cents. Happy new year Eric!!!!
@ErikHyndmanto That would be "stay in school, kids."
Obstructed piston cooling jet could cause this also.
I love your videos. I haven't come close to the amount of tear downs but done lot. Would love to see a tear down and failure of a Chevy 2.7 turbo!
I am a guy from Denmark. I love to see you turn downs, and see What's go wrong. Have a happy New Year🎉
Again this is the highlight of Saturday night can't wait to watch the disassembly.
Very often those Oil pump gear/rotors are powdered/sintered metal construction, the gears arent usually machined afterwords- the only item that might be is overall thickness.
Quite an interesting method to produce these gears.
Happy New Year Eric and family. Thanks for our Saturday night ritual. I enjoy all of the teardowns and commentary.
Happy new year Eric to you and yours. What a way to end the year. Great video it’s been a great year. I can’t wait to see what next year brings us.
Thanks for another weekend teardown, but to also wish you and your family a Happy New Year 🎉
HAPPY NEW YEAR ERIC! I'm excited for another year of tear downs!
Eric, I want to thank you for all the great videos this year. I love watching them and I try never to miss a Saturday night show. I also talk about Importapart to my friends. Perhaps some day they will give you some business.
I work for a non-franchise specialist who change a about a dozen or so Land Rover/Range Rover engines a year (we're the only shop around this area who do it for non-dealer prices) and we see one of these every 4-6 months. Wow. Where do you start with this engine platform...
I feel the pain of having to remove all the pipes and hoses and tubes and brackets and STUFF. It usually takes our engine tech a day to get the engine out and another day just to *find the long block* under all that crap! It's even worse in the truck.
The original design came from Peugeot/Citroen (PSA, now a division of Stelantis) which is where the Lion name come from (it's Peugeot's brand logo) and was part of an extensive diesel engine partnership between Ford and PSA at that time which is still going as far as I know.
The Land Rover version originally shipped as a 2.7l engine with a single turbo in 2005 in the Discovery 3 (LR3 in NA markets) and Range Rover Sport. It... wasn't exactly a rocket ship in a 2.5 ton car but they were decent engines that did okay fuel mileage for a large SUV diesel and were a big improvement on previous generation engines. The original 2.7l variant wasn't a bad engine but it had an archiles heel like all Land Rover engines seem to do. It had issues with the tensioner mounting on the oil pump casting breaking off, usually it'd crack during a belt change when the tech unbolted the tensioner that'd been on there for years (you saw how tight that bolt was!) then, after the belt change, would break off under tension, leaving the timing belt loose and catastrophic engine failure. A lot of shops initially got blamed for this but eventually Land Rover admitted it had a problem and recommended a new oil pump on a range of models... but attempt 1 didn't totally fix it, nor did attempt 2... I think the pump was on design 3 or 4 by the 3.0l. The 2.7l was also plagued by problems with sticking EGR valves, they'd soot up, jam the actuator and lead to heavy breathing, running rich, lots of smoke, and eventually the end of the plunger valve sheared off. I dread to think how many pairs of those we've sold or changed over the years.
The 3.0 litre LR-TDV6 is well known to spin rod bearings. They don't have locator tabs like you see on a lot of rob bearings, and if bad oil is used or the interval is stretched out too long they 'grab' and spin on the crank. This is aggravated by the fact the oil pumps on the 3.0l also get weaker over time (I don't know the details, but it's well documented) and the oiling starts to fail. All a recipe for disaster. Also the first 1-2 production year 3.0l LR engines had a habit of blowing front crank oil seals out of the oil pump resulting in it it pumping all your oil into the road, not into the engine.
You should be thankful you had the engine on a stand. The rear fuel pump belt is a nightmare top do in the car, you have to do it 'blind' effectively. The standard procedure for doing any major unit changes (access for the turbos, engine change) requires lifting the body off the car. On the Gen 1 Range Rover Sport and Discovery 3/4 (LR3/4) it's actually only 1/2 a day for an experienced tech to pull the body off. One reason there's so much crap bolted to the engine is it can't be bolted to the engine bay because it has to be modular. The engines were fitted at the factory fully dressed with all the pipes and hoses and stuff attached, and then the body was dropped on over them and they were just plugged in. Great for manufacturing efficiency. An absolute nightmare for after-sales service work!
I'm not saying this is at all connected, but the long blocks are regularly on back-order for these engines. But I think that goes for a lot of JLR's engines.
This engine was phased out in I think 2020 and replaced by a 3.0l twin-turbo straight-6 'Ingenium' JLR engine. It's too early to see if that has had any dramas yet, it's widely used so if it goes wrong we'll find out pretty fast!
Just... don't get me started on the early JLR Ingenium 4-cylinder engines... hoo boy.
Thank you Eric! 👍
Happy new year 🍾
Some of us old timers want to see a ford model T failed engine tear down 😂😢
Go to Merlin’s old school garage, he tares down model T and A engine’s
Happy new year Eric! Thanks for all the great videos this year. Cannot wait to see what the future holds. Hope the channel grows even more. PS love the fire extinguisher watching over you
The engine has obviously overheated at some point causing that piston and bore damage,they do oversized pistons so a rebore and crankshaft grind would probably be OK. The problem is where all that water came from,it looks as though that engine has been run for some time with water in the oil because of all the rust,when water gets into the oil it usually emulsifies but there’s no indication of that,I would double check those cylinders for any signs of cracks in the cylinder block,it’s a bit of a mystery where that water came from and that needs to be thoroughly investigated before any money is spent on parts. If a crack is found in a cylinder wall dry liners can be fitted and standard pistons fitted, those camshafts will need replacement,this engine needs a lot of money spent on it but when compared to a new engine it will look like small change,maybe a new short engine might be a better option, it’s worth making the comparison between the price options when labour time is considered.
Great content as always. This is a great way to spend the last Saturday night of the year!
With the marks on the cam gear it's likely the belt was replaced. Part of the timing process is to loosen the cam bolts and once it's tensioned the bolts would be retightened. Who knows where the gear will land. I've done a few belts on the F150 so far haven't been able to get the bolts 100% back where they were
I'm seeing on the F150 you shouldn't goich more than 100k on the timing belt. The belts are getting chewed up to the point they are smacking the cover.
I think I'm one of the only people in the states that actually like doing belts on these little guys. I have a line around the block waiting for me to do their belts 😂.
I have one of these (well, earlier, transverse version) in a Citroen. Lion (Peugeots crest) was a PSA/Ford joint effort, so it shares a lot of features with Peugeot Diesels, it has a bit of a mixed reputation compared to the Pug 4 bangers, I think it's pretty much all the Ford bits that fail. Citroen recommendation for those belts is 180K km under "adverse conditions", which is pretty much anything if you read into it. Did it at 160K km (almost exaxtly 100k miles) on my first and it looked pretty OK, but it was a car doing mostly highway stuff.
I've come around on belts in general, at least they are specced as maintenance items and you usually do the obvious stuff alongside (waterpump etc.), unlike chain tensioners which are specced for the "life of the engine" which translates into "their failure determines the life of your engine".
The french have also heavier weight oil specced than Jag/LR, which reportedly helps a lot with the bearings not spinning during prolonged hard use, which is a thing with these.
I think that the engine has a much easier time in a car than in a big heavy 4x4. The gearing is higher and they spend more time in a high gear because of less drag. I'm using 5w40 now in my Jag.
@@PJ-om2wq I can't imagine they like towing all that much, narrow bearings and light oil are bad combo if you apply torque. OTOH, they can take the revs no problem, I've run mine north of 4k for hours and to be fair, doing those autobahn things was probably the original design brief for these and that's what lots of old timey diesels had problems with. But yeah, cost and size is probably not the only reason PSA uses an Iveco I4 as the 3L diesel option in their vans.
I was thinking the same. Ether someone did a t belt and got it wrong or it was a recycled engine bought from a wrecking yard. Might have been both. I work at a yard and have seen just about everything. Maybe. There is always tomorrow.
Thankfully Blue survived his ordeal 👍 ratchet spanners(wrenches) can be replaced but Blue is for life. Thanks again Eric for another great teardown and here's wishing you and your family and everyone across the pond a very Happy New Year from a very wet and windy Nottingham 🇬🇧
Happy new year Eric! Always love watching you tear into all different engines, I learn quite a bit from your videos! Are you able to source a Subaru H6 engine? 3.0L or 3.6L would make for an interesting tear down!
Happy new year Eric. And thanks for all your great videos. Keep up the good work and may 2024 bring whatever you desire. All the best from across the pond😊🎉
Oh thank goodness!!!
I always look forward and scared at same time, for your videos.
To see if your video of a junk motor is one I own!!!
Love your channel!!!
Happy new year!!!
Was it a design priority for it to be unserviceable once fitted to the vehicle? Remove the crank pulley to remove the cam drive cover just so you can get the valve covers off? Yeah, right...
It’s cheaper to build that way. Welcome to modern vehicles!
Jaguar will do whatever they can to force you to go to a dealer shop for anything more involved than filling your gas and washer fluid
@@micahreid5553 Its a Ford engine
No need to remove the cam belt covers to remove the valve covers, just need to loosen off the screws. Done it twice with cracked inlets. Only a pain to work on as access to the valve cover requires a lot of peripheral parts removal.
@@99domini99Which is fine, since the vast majority of vehicles are discarded because they don't fail until their value is too low to make a repair make economic sense.
Happy New Year Eric. I hope Santa brought you a 15mm to replace the one that you broke in the video. You really put the "Snap" in Snap-On with that one! :)
Thanks as always for my Saturday night entertainment. As for why it failed? No clue here.
two phrases used in military aircraft..."Normal wear & tear" and "Excessive wear & tear."
Over heated Piston from bad injector that was stopped using before a torched piston.
Thanks again for another learning opportunity. Great tear down.
I could watch you all day Eric lol. Always look forward to new videos. We think EXACTLY alike 😂
I always wanted to see one of these engines on your channel, awesome work man.
The HP fuel pumps have a bronze bushing inside which breaks down, circulating swarf through both pumps and kills them in the end.
Those plastic cam covers/intake manifolds crack, creating boost leaks. They get changed on the regular and that HP fuel line over the LH cover has to be 'repositioned' for the cover to be removed.
Thanks and much respect from the UK.
RIP; 15mm spanner 🔧, that bit was hilarious tbh. We had to make a tool to hold the crank by the ring of bolts to get that bastard loose.
*Also, I'm told by an engine builder that the cam lobes are pressed on to the cam shaft.
Great plan
Always look forward to seeing your teardowns.
Maybe it was October when it became a core.
Great show! Thanks Eric.
"Crap these cram caps" 😂😂 Thanks for another great video! Happy new year Eric!!!
I had to rewatch that part about 3 times, I thought that was my imagination 😂
@@JAMESWUERTELE I turned the subtitles on to make sure I wasn't hearing things.....again 🤣
I like cram the crack caps
He says it in evrry video, or something similar It started years ago as an accidental fumble, something like "cam these cap cracks" 😂
@@johncoops6897 I've never been quite sure if he does it as a gag, or if he just can't English some days. I think it's likely some of both. :)
It looks like it was pulled out for the piston failure, maybe set outside exposed , then went to a yard. who knows. Great video!!
I don’t know how you keep your cool tearing down these engines and keep from hurling stuff across the shop. I don’t know if it happens behind the scenes or what but you have the calmest personality of anyone tearing engines down I’ve ever seen, including me.
As always entertaining and informative, I look forward to a new year of many broken engines and bad jokes.
Theory:
There were multiple signs of the engine having been running after the rust manifested, so i think the messed up cylinder was simply a high friction event because of rust in the cylinder.
Tbh, i''m surprised the other pistons looked so relatively good.
Also protip: Run a razor blade around the top of the cylinder to remove carbon before pulling the pistons, as i have seen multiple cases where the graphite coating on the pistons are damaged by the carbon deposits.
And it also allows you to wiggle all the pistons out by hand.
I agree with one other comment as fuel wash from a hung open injector. As for the hole in the pan, some yards punch holes in everything to drain fluids as the process cars
It really is Christmas, you have some great engine tear downs this month!
Thank you for a good year Eric. Look forward to 2024 🎉
Interesting that the shaft of your wrench broke while the ratchet mechanism withstood the strain. Impressive.
A while ago you did a Mazda 2.5 SkyActive. If you ever come across another one that has the cylinder deactivation it could be interesting to see how that genius (sarcastic) idea works and if it played a part in why that engine made it to your engine stand.
Happy New Year and thank you for all the enjoyable and educational videos during the past year.
Great video…I have a 2016 td6 Range Rover and have just completed (my indy tech) timing belt service at 99k miles. Think landrover says 8 years or 105k miles. Lots of these early “lion” diesel engines (2016+) here in USA are now needing this service……pricy at Landrover dealer. Very interesting seeing this motor being stripped down.
Hi Eric great video! In the US that engine is mono turbo is located in the driver side, and the passenger side holds the egr. also the recommended timing belt replacement is 112k miles
Love your videos. A Happy New Year to you and yours!
Rover refers the 3.0. as the "Lion". A thought about the pink paint- makes it the "pink panther' now!
I'll let myself out now. Happy New Year everybody!
It's called a lion because that's what Ford called it when they designed it. It's a Ford engine not a LR engine.
The timing gears had to have been repositioned by someone... the bolt head abrasions on the gears are separate. There would be skid marks from one circle to the next on all of them if they slid to a different position while running.
Another great video Eric. I’m glad that Blue was ok. A happy New Year to you and your family.
Really Liked the tear-down, Nice retro T-Bird BTW.
Thanks for tearing down a 3.0 diesel Eric!
I have the powerstroke version in my 2018 F150 and absolutely love it!
I was just searching through your videos a couple days ago to see if you had ever torn down this engine.
Thanks again!
I knew this one was coming to 😂. I may have a powerstroke 3.0 for him soon.
Ford and PSA designed the lion engine for JLR and Peugeot people movers as 2.7l because psa didn’t want 3.0l JLR did. Ford built the engines for JLR. After Ford sold JLR they didn’t care about the engine problems until they thought it would be suitable for the F150 then fixed all the problems. 2.7 and 3l suffered from spun bearings while the 3l crank shaft kept breaking among other issues. Bearings were fixed with tabs and forget how they fixed the crank … think they increased diameter as the the engine was designed to be longitudinal and transverse so pretty tight. I think you have a good engine… well done you!
@@ClayCourtGuythe bearings still spin, the crank was fixed by changing it to a forged crank. None of the dimensions changed, including the tiny 14mm big end bearings
@@billyp4850 thanks for clarifying Billy. Surprised the tabs didn’t help … I thought the bearings spun then that blocked off the oil flow but I guess they need a reason to spin … maybe just the lack of bearing surface area.
@@ClayCourtGuy tabs don't stop bearings spinning, they're only there to make locating them during assembly foolproof. The tension of the bearing shell into the housing is what holds it in place
Hey broski!!
Thank you for making all of these great videos, I've been binge watching them for the passed few weeks and like them very much. I'm not sure if you've done a teardown on a toyota 2GR-FKS, but if you haven't I'm sure many people would live to see the teardown. I also have a question I have this ending in my tacoma and have 126k on it and took it to the toyota dealer to have the timing chain done and they told me that I didn't need it done and they don't do that service. But that sounds like bs if you read this could you let me know if I should go get it done somewhere else or just let it ride. I plan on driving this truck until the wheels fall off so I want to have the proper maintenance done to make it last.
Happy new year and thx for a 2023 being livable with your videos to look forward to.
A teardown of a SAAB 2.3l enginge would be fun to watch. The engines themself are good engines but the exhaust goes right by the sump. On the turbo ones the turbo is next to it and on the nonturbos the cat sits there. This makes the oil hot and on varm summer days it can even boil. This creates soot particles that gets stuck in the small oilchannels and strangles/stop oilflows. So on the dash you still have full oilpressure but some channel dont get anything... I work as a towtruck driver in Sweden and we usually pick up 1-2 SAAB: s every year with an extra inspectionport 😂
This is the TDV6 which means it's a single turbo application. The SD6 which is mid 2019+ is the twin turbo variation. Also the cranks were changed in 2018 to the upgraded version used in the F150.
Thanks for this one Eric. FWIW the 3.0 V6 diesels that came to the states roughly have performance stats of the Euro SDV6, 254 vs 256 HP. In the US, the 2017 version name changed form TD6 to SD6. Also US versions were not single turbo. All US versions per the spec sheet are twin turbo, albeit a sequential setup. Older versions of the Euro TDV6 2.7 were single turbo. In Europe the SD6 came in at 300 HP, the US SD6 remained at 254.
It is amazing how complex this thing is. I bet the maintenance on these is terribly expensive.
Tsk
As someone who works at JLR. I can attest they are really expensive to keep on the road in the US. I don’t know about Europe but It’s really expensive in the US to keep these things running in tip top shape.
@@hulqs9330 In australia, theyre pretty expensive to keep them on the road also
Add New Zealand to that list. They also break crankshafts at an alarming rate at the #2 main journal. And split inlet manifolds, blow turbos due to the 25000km service intervals, split oil coolers and on and on and on…
In the U K they cost a fortune.....and the new ones are virtually uninsurable due to ease of theft.
My mom had always wanted one of those thunderbirds, no idea why but thats always been a dream car of hers
Love the videos Eric, keep it up.
I was thinking that injector washed the cylinder. If I remember that nasty injector was pulled out of that cylinder.
I have the 3.0L v6 in my 2020 F150 and I have yet to find fault with it. Ford did make some improvements to the engine before dropping them in the 1/2 tons. That said, after watching Eric tear this one down and the LR Time video rebuilds, I hope I don't have any problems.
Wait until you need a thermostat, the cab comes off the frame.
Keep changing the oil and filter "early"...not at 25k interval?
I got one to man. No problems yet with mine
Make sure you also use the 5W40 CK-4 oil, or you will join the Lion spun bearing club
Got the 2.7L version in my Ford Territory
Been waiting for this video
Happy new year Eric!
Ford's partnerships always confuse me, they come and go so randomly.
On the subject of diesels, I would LOVE to see an OM617 or an OM648, I've got one of each in my 300TD and E320 CDI respectively and they're both so well known for their reliability, but worn out or blown up 617s are becoming a bit more common these days. The 648 is fortunately or unfortunately still pretty hard to find as a core from what I've seen.
I wish I could find more 642’s as well. They’ve been making them for 18 years an they’re in all the sprinter vans. Where the hell are they going? My 642 in my Mercedes GL has 220k miles and I’m not sure how much longer it has.
Ford owned Land Rover for 6-7 years. It wouldn't be surprising if there were contracts in place to supply engines after they sold it to Tata. Especially given that Tata Motors is not well known as an engine developer.
@discordia013 the thing is Land Rover did most of the development on this engine. The fact that Ford borrowed it for the f150 is kind of crazy.
@@eptdyit was a Ford/Peugeot/Citroen design.The engines are well known for broken crankshaft Webb's.The Webb's were made narrower therefore weaker to shorten the overall length so the engine could be fitted in cars like jaguar also owned by ford.Its the worst of the Peugeot/Citroen diesels the smaller ones being quite reliable.
@@eptdyNo that totally makes sense. The Lion Engine format was developed in 2004 and used for almost 10 years in various Land Rover/Range Rover and other "Ford" owned European products as the TD6. Rumour is that it's largely developed by Citroen. Ford literally bought the design and they were not going to develop anything different.
They have a notoriously bad history with problems from bad cam shaft metallurgy, to bore washing due to bad injectors and general overheats, sub standard peripherals and the nightmare of getting them serviced. Perhaps it's even more surprising that Tata kept using them when they bought the company from Ford.
When I see Medusa snake pits like this one, I always wonder how anyone ever gets it all back together if that's in the plan. So, in that vein, I'd love to see how you strip down an engine and what you do with the parts so you can reasonably efficiently get everything reassembled. Or, do you ever do that ?
Outstanding video
Happy New Year.
Really cool you got this engine. Rare over here in the States. I’ve been watching a couple in Germany that has gone into a lot of detail about this engines and its weaknesses on their Land Rover. Keep the videos coming
Their weakness is crankshaft / main bearings being worn prematurely. The story is well known. They tried to fix it with a better hardening of the crankshaft. But it I'd still the main failure point. This is the reason why land Rovers, and range Rovers are cheaper than BMW X5 or Mercedes products.
Does not help that the service plan from LR is 10k -12k miles between oil changes
@@hyphensclassics it's the 20,000 mile ones I'd be more worried about.
@@eugeneoreilly9356 crazy, no oil supports an engine that long! People wonder why the bearings go!
Yeah been waiting
Great video!
Happy New Year To You And All Your Family
I love watching these videos. I have learned so much about engines that I want to tear one down!
Is it me or did it seem this engine is a pain in the (***) to break down with tons of covers, brackets and tiny parts. Happy New Year Eric and your family and to all here ! ✨🎊🎉
You should try doing that rear fuel pump belt with the body on. It's buried right under the dashboard, and on all but the earliest 2.7L models, timed too. We even had to make a special tool to get the turbocharger off our 2.7L more easily, because without making a tool it's an absolute nightmare. At least this one has a crankshaft that's in one piece!
On ford trucks you have to pull the cab off to do any kind of work on them
Can you imagine working on that engine in vehicle!
@@rockyj2008 We do (albeit a Euro 3 2.7L version in a Discovery 3, so at least the fuel pump isn't timed). It's an absolute nightmare to do anything on them apart from basic servicing. Doing the rear fuel pump belt entails lying on top of the engine with a mirror working virtually blind. If it's twin turbo (thankfully ours isn't), doing the right hand turbo is nigh on impossible with the body on, but the left hand one is doable with some home-made tools. The biggest issue is if a glow plug snaps, because that means taking the heads off which is a nightmare. I'd say leave it but if you don't have a fuel burning heater with an aftermarket controller, getting these to start below -5°C (23°F) is virtually impossible without glow plugs, and difficult enough at freezing point.
@@dizzy2020 It is used in to Peugeot xxx and 608 and Citroen C5, but Ford did not use it in any saloon car made by Ford but on Ford car in Aussi got it!!
The oil pump is very scary and is needed to replace when doing timing belt and the sealing in front of it.
I drove a Range Rover 200,000 miles before I had any reliability issues. Oh. I meant 200 miles.
Womp womp
Wishing you and yours a Happy and Healthy New Year. 🎉
I have a Jaguar XJ 2.7 diesel with 190,000 miles. It has a slight tick on one injector and I think a leak on one inlet manifold, so this is a useful video for me to see how it comes apart.
Thanks for the show!
This poor engine had an injector fail; it spewed fuel, probably as a stream, on to the cylinder wall and the piston scraped it up to TDC when the then concentrated fuel ignited, always in the same spot - on the edge of the piston. The poor piston never had a chance.
The driver heard knocking like gas engine preignition, but louder. The engine itself never overheated as only the one piston was affected.
A spray test will reveal the offending injector; most likely it can be rebuilt and sold with the others.
Happy New Year and thanks for your interesting shows.
The pink paint on the motor tells me it's Pick-A-Part😅😅😅😅
i love the comedy bits you put in. Thank you. Great video.
I love those last generation Thunderbirds… they really should have gotten the MarkVIII engine though and the option of a 5spd
There are some strange engineering choices in this engine.
yaman dis is europen crap
First of all a happy New Year, Eric! Secondly, I wish for a LOT of British teardowns in the next year, logics always seem a bit off with those, if they can make things complicated, they never seem to amaze me.
@@retiredbore378😂😂😂😂
@@jobertvangool9961 there are no British teardowns, they never had any survive long enough to be torn down properly. Enjoy your tea!
I have a request for a oddball - The Rex engine from a BMW i3. I know its out of the realm of what you normally do (and maybe harder to come by?) , but that little thing always intrigued me. Thanks for all the entertainment!
Great vid as usual Eric, a shame you dropped that valuable water pump tho!
And I get why you bought the Bird. I have done that more than once haha
Happy new year, can't wait to see what you come up with in 2024. :)
Since it came out of a Land Rover, my theory is this happened off roading. Possibly driving through deep water and somehow got water in the oiling system. Possibly struck an object while fording the water and punctured a hole in the pan, quickly filling the pan with water and damaging the moving parts in the lower end before the owner realized what was happening and was able to turn off the engine in time. That's just my theory.
Sounds kinda like a leaking injector. That'll overheat a piston real quick.
Always very interesting thanks for sharing 🦘
"3.0 liter twin turbo diesel that puts out around 250 hp and 440 foot pounds of torque"
Well, that would wake up my '97 Ford Aerostar very nicely!
@@ErikHyndmanto haha!
That sure looks like an over-heat, especially with that piston metal transfer. Happy NY Eric ;-)
Clog in the water jacket near that one piston?
Overtemp and lack of lubrication. Years ago I worked on snowmobile engines that ran overlean in warm weather, and the pistons looked just like that. I can't say why that one got hot or lost lubrication though.
Bad injector on that piston causing lean burn?
@@raguhmuffin Bad injector dumping fuel. Too much fuel.
@@petebrooks6539 Yea, I have a feeling that the Fuel Injector for that cylinder wasn't doing it's job, causing that cylinder to run lean ...leading to excess heat on that Piston causing it to scuff the Bore & damage itself.
As a jag/lr dealer tech, a friendly reminder: if there's no coolant under it, there's no coolant in it.
If it leaks oil, there’s oil in it - carry on
Happy new year Eric, Henk form Holland.🏍🏍🏍🏍
Yeah you try any of that in the car. Total pig of an engine to work on. Fuel rail bolts way too long won’t come out with the egr in the way and you can’t undo the egr bolts due to acces. Utter joke as you can see in the video. Fuel rail bracket is 5mm thick. Why fit inch long bolts to hold a 5mm thick fuel rail bracket? You wouldn’t need to touch the egr just to replace a spilt intake cam cover at £300 a side delivered 1 month apart opps wits.
And note one bank has the cam chain at the back . Pray that don’t play up, although it’s only driving the other cam. Access being a pig my bet is the scuttle and wipers were removed and then It was left in the rain after that cylinder ate itself. Was that the dodgy injector cylinder?
why is everything plastic now
Likely weight and cost savings? I do believe certain plastic components can be implemented successfully… but not all
Another great video, You and your family have a healthy safe New Year!!!!!!
Those 'lil 4.2s get going real good in that T-bird throwback.
Test drove many new.
They REALLY need to have engineers work on these motors while installed in the cars.
Most likely a bad injector caused the piston and cylinder wall damage.
How could an injector cause that? Maybe spray too much fuel and lock the cylinder causing the wrist pin to seize? The wrist pin is the failure but what caused the wrist pin to lock up?
poked a hole in oil pan while going thru water or mud hole and water replaced the oil !