Matt did this job for us early October 2024. We picked it up on October 11. The car was noticeably more quiet without the chain slapping noise. He also gave us a call about some other issues he found and recommendations, such as a leaking valve cover gasket and he repaired them as well. We drove it from his location, just outside Gettysburg, PA, to our home in Indianapolis with no problems and the car ran really well. We paid about $700 to ship the car to him, definitely worth it.
Just posting a follow up: Matt did this job (and supercharger isolator as well as the coolant stuff) for me last month. This guy is the real deal. Our 2011 rover has been nice and quiet and just runs really well now, excellent work and turnaround time. Communication was great! I wish more people were as capable as Matt is. Outstanding.
Matt we thank you so much for taking care of Land Rover. We came all the way from North Carolina after reading the amazing reviews of the problem we had and how you take care. We just came home flying with no rattling noise. Not only he took care of the noise but took care of other coming problems. Also saved lots of money what dealers were going to charge. Matt thank you very much and hope to see you in future too.👍
I found out that I had the frequently seen timing tensioner issues in the 5.0 LRJ engine for my 2011 Jaguar XFR. The dealer prices were $10k+. I found Matt through this TH-cam videos regarding this topic and contacted him. It was clear he had done more than a few of these and we set a date for drop-off. Matt did the job in a day and did it right. His cost was less than a quarter of the dealer rates and it was well worth the drive from SW Virginia to near Gettysburg. If I lived closer, Matt would be who I took all my cars to - an honest mechanic!
Matt I cannot thank you enough for helping out and repairing my LR4. The chain noise is gone and for a fraction of the price. I’ve seen quotes for 8k plus. I drove my LR4 to Matts shop and he had it repaired same day. I was able to drive home around 7:30pm. Matt took care of concierge and recommended a few great spots around the area while I killed time. Even with getting the vehicle there, this was easily the most feasible economic option. 10/10 solution and service I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Matt if your (or one you plan on buying) Jag or Rover is making chain noise, great work.
Review (5/5 Experience) Leaving Matt a review after he serviced my Land Rover LR4. We did the timing job and a coolant system refresh on my 2012 with the 5.0L v8. Matt did an awesome job, can’t recommend him enough. He is an honest mechanic who knows these Jaguar Land Rover vehicles well. Matt will take good care of your JLR vehicle!
I just shipped my LR4 down to Matt for the timing chain tensioner replacement, and he did a fantastic job for a very reasonable price (1/3 the estimate from the dealer). He got it done in just two days and was very professional to deal with. Highly recommended!
AAA+ recommendation! I recently purchased a 2013 L320, which I had shipped from AZ to Matt. He did an OUTSTANDING job with this repair and he saved me a ton of dough in the process. My L320 is running like a top! I cannot recommend his service enough. Thank you Matt!
Wow! Just wow! Thank you so much, not only for the video, but also taking time to answer a lot of the questions. The answers helped just as much as the video, as I was about to tackle this on my '11 XFR, but had a LOT of the same questions as these guys, particularly regarding what exactly I needed to do for just the zip-tie tensioner/guide replacement method vs. the workshop manual's instructions for the full-on timing chain replacement. Great work, and thank you!!!!!
Great video. I attempted to do this job without valve cover removal, but my cam adjusters rotated because I didn’t lock them down. Love the zip tie trick!!! Mine were changed at about 85k miles, I’m at 102k miles now. I kept the chain, and only replaced the guides and tensioner. All is holding up well with the repair! One note, I reused my valve cover gasket, and wish I would have replaced it, as it’s now slowing seeping oil.
This is awesome. I knew there was an easier way. Mines at 70k. Just starting to make some ticking. I'm doing this along with the water pump,SC snout kit and probably a fan clutch. I've done the belt on the 300zx v6 overhead cam. So I ain't scared, 😂
Make sure to mark your chains and sprockets. I had one jump on me a few weeks ago and without those marks it would've been a nightmare resetting everything
Be aware that Jaguar/LR have altered the design of the tensioners, changing the angle of attack or how it applies pressure to the guides. Make sure to get the new ones. This problem was corrected for the late 2012-2013 models. Have your dealer check your VIN number if you are unsure your truck is affected. ChronCrew, excellent work here, thanks for coming up with this. I hope I never need it for ours!
Finally managed to snake a borescope camera down my oil filler to verify whether my 190,000 mile NA 2012 RRS has had the tensioners/guide rails replaced at any point. Quite surprised to see an 11/2011 date stamp on the guide rail and the factory installed, original style tensioner in place! Must be the highest mileage AJ133 of all time existing with factory fitted original tensioners! Making some noise from the drivers’ side bank, looks like I’ll be doing this job ASAP.
Wish I was closer to you, would for sure have you take care of the 5.0 in my RRS. Looks like I’ll need to tackle this one on my own. Ever encounter one of these that exhibited a “stretched” chain, or worn to the point where there is excess slack between cam gears that can’t be taken out with replacing the guides in this way? At all possible to replace the chains with this method? Almost looks like you could…?
Any issues with sealing up the front timing covers against the valve covers you didn’t remove? You put RTV on the point between the block and timing cover so the valve cover gasket seals up?
No issues, rtv between the timing cover and the block yes, rubber gaskets on the valve covers seal properly if not already damaged. You must be very particular as to how these covers are reinstalled.
do you set things at at TDC before zip tying the cam sprockets or just lock them up where ever they happen to be? Also, is the crank pulley hold tool the only thing you use to remove the bolt (i.e. is it enough) or do you also need to put a hold tool on the flywheel? Thanks!
Thanks for the reply ChronCrew , my car has 210000kms on it would it need chains or as you explained in you comments do they not really streach/break ?.and would you know what tool is the best one to buy to hold the crankshaft, then remove the pulley?. also do you need to ratate the engine to a certain point to zip tie the cams or tie them where you see them?
They may stretch some, i have not seen a broken set yet, this does not mean it can't happen just that i have not witnessed it. If you plan to keep the vehicle for a very long time perhaps its advisable to do the chains as well. I made my crankshaft holding tool so i am unsure what the best retail option is. Crankshaft position is only important in that your counterhold tool can rest on the frame rail when bolted up, other than that it is not important for this procedure.
@@ChronCrew is there a possibility that you'll slightly spin the crankshaft even though the dampener is completely locked in place? Im guessing as long as you mark the top sprockets and chains you can always set it back in place, am i correct?
I recently purchased a 2012 RRS which allegedly has had the timing chain job done at some point, but not documented so I can’t be sure. 156k miles. There is no rattle at startup, and the chain feels taught/tight when attempting to move it through the oil filler. I recently noticed that there’s ticking noise coming from the drivers’ side front cam cover area, where the timing chains would be. It is slightly louder, but sounds similar to the direct injectors, but is independent of the injectors. It sounds just like a ticking lifter, and is only present at idle and low rpm. It goes away at higher rpm. It does not sound like rattling timing chains. What do you think this could be? Cam phaser ticking? I did an oil change yesterday with LiquiMoly 0W-20, as I had read this was compatible and potentially better than the 5W-20. What do you recommend for oil? Go back to 5W-20? I have heard of even using a higher weight oil in these, even 5W-40. I’m not sure if the noise was or wasn’t present prior to oil change.
If it sounds like a lifter tick, very likely to be the tensioner on that side giving up some slack, however as always it could be one of so many different things. Noisy phasers in my experience almost always are accompanied by a timing fault as well for that particular phaser. As for oil, I recommend 5w-30 on these with some milage on them now, I would not be opposed to using 5w-40 in hotter climates either. For me, 0w-20 is much too thin.
This is so great, thank you for sharing. I plan to do this to my 2011 LR4 with 100k miles. Its new to me, and I dont have service records. what else would you replace while doing this job?
Hello thanks for this video. It awesome that people take the time to do things like this so people like me can save some 💰 and potentially thousands of $'s.. I apologize in advance if you already answered this question but I want to know if I can change the chains also using this exact method ? If so is there anything additional I need to do to get the chains out and back on or can I just simply take em out ? Thanks again for your help and time.
You must modify the oil tube on the drivers side to geg the chaons off using this method, however the updated guides and tensioners are designed to compensate for chain stretch so unless there is contact damage on the chains there is no need to replace them in my opinion.
Sorry if this has already been answered, is there a more reliable way to lock the camshaft pulley using this method? I'm thinking some kind of aftermarket machined design that clamps onto the pulley windows?
None that im aware off. While there is demand to have the guides and tensioners replaced, most dont do it themselves so the demand for a tool is low. I now use 6 zip ties per side and a wedge tool on each bank during these repairs.
So do you know how to find TDC for the crank? i have a 2015 range rover 5.0 SC. I do have the tool but i dont where to put the tool in to align the crank. can you help
There are many ways to do this. Removing the cyl 1 spark plug and turning the engine until the compression stroke then using a long 1/4" extension to dial in tdc is most common. If the camshafts are exposed you can turn the engine until the cyl 1 camshaft lobes have closed the intake valves and halway to reopening the exhaust valves, also you can use the marks on the cam phasers and ensure they are point upward with the crankshaft keyway in the 6 oclock position. There is a plug on the underside of the engine that needs to be removed and the square special tool fits into the crank sensor phaser in only the tdc position.
Not sure you'll see this as the video is a few years old, but can I ask where you are located. Just bought a l322. Thinking of doing the chain and tensioner. Thanks
Hi this is a great video I was thinking of doing this repair myself, just wanted to ask a few questions before I do it.I live in Perth Australia and no one wants to do this repair, except stealerships that say it costs about $8000,what I want to know is do you need a tool to keep the crank pulley still while you undo the crank bolt you spoke about or will the crank not move while you are undoing the crank bolt? then can you just use a pulley removal tool, on the crank pulley?. when you get to where you are showing the tensioners/chains ect in your video if you have locked the cams with the cable ties and the crank is still and marked, what is stopping you putting new chains on ? as the chain is only the loop? or am I missing something
You will need to buy or make a tool to hold the crankshaft in order to remove the bolt. Or remove the front end of the vehicle and use a very high powered impact gun. After the bolt is out a pulley remover is used to pull the pulley off. With everything locked you can reomeve the chains for replacement should you choose to do so.
Hello Matt. This is a great video. Do you think we should change the water pump and thermostat while doing this job or no? As well as should the chain be replaced?
Chains are not necessary in my experience/opinion when they have not contacted the timing cover. Additionally valves vavle covers need removed to do this properly. I replace the water pump and thermostat on most that i do.
My 2011 hse Range Rover knocks like it’s coming apart from the inside when started, but goes away with a tapping noise after that. Is this a timing chain guide and tensioner issue?
When the tensioners begin to fail the noise is most noticable at startup, this very likely could be your concern. In any case, the original guide and tensioner design is flawed, if they have not already been updated, it is highly recommended to have them done.
Hey bro, do you have a trick for putting the upper cover back on without losing all the fresh silicone? With the valve cover still torqued down and it having a couple pins/studs, it makes it hard to push straight in. I had to open mine back up because the new phaser I bought apparently had the reluctor wheel slightly bent in shipping so the sensor wasnt picking the whole tab up and it was messing up the reading of the timing. Anyway, if you have any suggestions id appreciate it!!!
Its difficult for sure, but after a few dozen it starts to get easier. I use 2 flat heads under the bottom of the cover, rest the top just under the edge of the valve cover, then pivot using the flat heads and press the cover over the dowels.
Awesome video! Hey quick question....have they changed the part number of the tensioner since you did this video? I'm seeing part LR095472 for the tensioner. I have a 2011 full size Range Rover Supercharged. I'm excited to do the job this way, I hope it cuts the time in half!
I hadnt realized there was any change in part number but looking around it appears that new number is correct however the same part as the previous number. So either should be fine and make no difference. I will update if i find out otherwise.
I tried to read the comment but was wondering if the S/C has to come off to complete using this method? Also I have the Jaguar XJL 5,0 SC but I believe they are the same engines. Correct me if I'm wrong please. Thanks
Do you need to replace the 12.9 crank shaft bolt when doing this or you can reuse it? I think I have a weak tensioner or a broken bolt on one of the guides. So I'm planning on replacing the tensioners, bolts, and guides.
I keep one in stock to measure against the used ones for any bolt stretch. If i ever find on stretched i'll replace it, hasnt happened yet. Only have done a handful of bolts at customer request.
@@ChronCrew Thanx for replying. I'm going to try this zip-tie method next week. If the chains are stretched, I may have to take it all the way to PA and drop it off with you. LOL! I'm planning on changing the bolts, guides, and tensioners. Hopefully, I don't have to mess with the coolant pipes much. 2016 RRS SCV6
Getting ready to do this job. Do you have to loosen the valve covers to get the timing chain covers off? How long did the whole job take you? Were there any write ups on this replacement on the forums?
@@lear60man Appears to be the same engine, however it would have been produced with the updated guides and tensioners. The tensioners themselves have been revised more recently and certainly have a possibility of failure however, as well the supercharger isolator could also have failed and be causing the noise. In either case i have extensive experience with both repairs and beleive it would be the same or very similar to do on your L405.
also do you need to ratate the engine to a certain point to zip tie the cams or tie them where you see them?" where they last rotated to when the engine was switched off?
Hi there. I have 2012 5.0l supercharged Jaguar, 73,000km (50,000 miles) is it possible to do this repair on my car? And do you think it is necessary to replace the chains? Or is it enough to just replace the tensioners and guides?
Hi. It is absolutely possible to do this repair on your vehicle. Unless there are signs of the chains contacting metal inside (very loud when running) it is my opinion that just tensioners and guides are sufficient.
@@ChronCrew thanks. There are 2 guides from the tensioners sides and 2 opposite do i need to change all 4 of them? The sound isnt so loud and it goes away after few minutes.
Хасан Ахмадов did you ever get to it? I have the same issue as you described on my 2012 Jaguar XJL Supercharged. Just to see what the stealership would say, they quoted me roughly $8000 for this. Lmao
@@Unrealpechca I think I have the noise that everyone says it makes when your guides are going bad. Mine also makes an "extra noise" in the begining then goes away. What did you ended up doing? Fixed it or no? Still making noise? Did it get louder? Thanks
Matt, Great Vid...but just as great are your responses to all the questions. If I were to summarize your method for myself, is it correct that if you are just doing the tensioners and guides, you never need to worry about the cam or crank positions as long as the chains NEVER move from any of their original gear positions, correct? Was trying to figure out why so many folks were having timing errors post using this method and can only assume chain positions moved on a gear tooth somewhere (which also underscores the added complexity of replacing the chains as marking counting the links/positions on the original chains seems imperative). Fair summary? Long drive from CO; otherwise, I would book an appt to have you do this for me. Cheers!
It is imperative to mark the locations of the chains in relation to all sprockets prior to starting the job, this is the key to not worrying about chain position before beginning. I now remove both chains from the crank sprocket during replacement to make replacement easier, without proper marking this would be impossible.
I prefer international t-442 sealant on every application, best engine sealant ive ever come across. I do not lock the crankshaft in any way when doing this job.
I have an 2015 LR4 and was told that it needs a new tensioner. I thought this was common issue for 10 to 12 but have you seen any on newer year models?
The tensioners could certainly fail on later models as well, they have not revised these parts only the guides. Ive not personally had to do any that new myself, but again it is certainly possible.
How would someone know if a cam variator is bad? I'm doing the timing (sucky job, btw) and when I rotate my engine clockwise, the right side (passenger) intake variator seems to turn but sporadically "release" as if it's spring loaded. It rotates about 1/8th of a turn every time it releases as I continue to rotate the engine. None of the others do that. Not sure this matters, but It does make a dull click sound when it rotates. Is that normal operation? Any help would be appreciated.
Matt - Thanks for making this video - I am undertaking the Tensioner / Guide upgrade on my 2010 L322 Range Rover 5.0 S/C here in the UK - Do you replace the "fixed" guide or can these not be replaced doing only a partial strip of the chains and timing assembly ? - Thanks for any reply - cheeRS Dave
Hey man, i accidentally moved my crank counter clockwise about a quarter turn to fit my crank holding tool, do you think im screwed r.e. the timing? it didnt sound like it skipped any teeth but could i rectify this by rotating it (clockwise) until i have all the timing chain alignment marks in the right positions?
Your probably fine, its best not to turn it counterclockwise but you can to some extent in order to fit the counter hold as you have. If a chain were to jump you would hear an audible click
Thanks for posting. My 2015 LR4 3.0 has been making noise for a while. it has 75k miles on it with oil changes every 7500 miles. Is it safe to assume the 3.0 sc is the similar procedure as the 5.0? Do you not recommend trying to remove the crank bolt with an impact gun? Thanks again for your time. I've been a tech for 35yrs so i have a little knowledge, just enough to get myself trouble :))
Just followed your tips on my tensioner replacement. Thank you! I'm having a hell of a time re-installing the secondary belt for the radiator fan. It doesn't have a tensioner and it's super stiff. Any tips?
Yes this belt is a pain the first time u deal with it. You must put it on one pulley fully and just have it started on the other. Then using a decent sized flat screw driver use the ribs of the pulley to pry the belt toward the pulley and turn the crankshaft clockwise at the same time which will turn the belt onto the pulley. You may have to turn it a few times to fully work the belt on. Do not turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
@@jehoonkim9038 ok, good deal. I was assuming you didnt have access to one so i gave you the back yard proceedure lol. Hope everything works ok for you.
Reading lots of conflicting information about setting the chain tensioners, the jag manual says they need to be set by prying the guide until a click is heard, but the land rover manual is different.
Hey bro, when putting these back together does the harmonic balancer orientate a specific way onto the crank flange where the 6 bolts go through? It looks like it's fine to bolt it on in any direction. I'm having a issue where the supercharger belt is slipping backwards 1 rib at the harmonic balancer (stays in place on all the other pulleys)...but 6 pulley bolts and main crank bolts are all tight. You have any thoughts on what could cause this??
The pulley can bolt to the flange in any orientation, i would guess the crank bolt is not fully tight and so the cank pulley is sitting further from the motor, those cranks bolts get TIGHT. Ive had a few feel tight before they were actually seated.
Bro, I'm scared something went wrong with my job....we zip tied the phasers real good and really never took the chain off the sprockets, and we marked them...but now after putting it back together it has the codes P0016/P0017 which it never had timing codes before the job, just noise. In the scan tool on that bank, as the engine is revved the timing for that bank just shows 180 and 73 and never changes (other bank changes). Is it possible the sensor is bad? Are those codes for the cam sensors on front of engine, or are those solenoids that control the phasers rather than sensors? Is it possible it could be anything else besides a physical timing issue?? I want to exhaust any possibilities before tearing it back apart.
Those codes are indicating that both camshafts on bank 1 do not correlate properly with the crankshaft. Given that both camshafts have this fault on one bank would indicate to me that the chain did move on the crankshaft itself. In my experience, depending where the engine is locked to do this job, occasionally the chain wants to walk itself one tooth counter clockwise on bank one at the crank sprocket. A bad sensor could case one of these faults, but both sensors would have to be bad to cause both faults. Unfortunately it sounds like your bank 1 chain did move on you.
@@ChronCrew when the chain is off a tooth does it crank and run smooth (but in restrictive mode)? What do the cam sensors show in a scan tool when the chain is out of place? I ask because the timing on bank 2 sensors (good bank) fluctuates around but on the bank 1 sensors (faulty bank) the timing is frozen and doesn't change when you give it gas. Because of that I was hoping for something faulty with the sensors....but would that be normal behavior in the scan tool with an out of place chain as well?
@@stephenwhite5444 yes the engine can run smooth and normal when only off one tooth, however the computer has noticed it is off so its placed the engine in restrictive running mode and locked the timing on that bank so that is no longer adjusting freely as it would normally.
@@ChronCrew is it possible to pull the covers and turn the engine till the chain marking line back up on the phasers then see if the crank is at 6:00? Or will the markings never line back up correctly?
Are you still doing this? Im in VA and I just bought a 2011 RRS SC with 50k miles. No timing noise yet but its such a nice example I want to do the guides and tensioners before it becomes a problem.
Great video; thanks for posting! I have a 2012 LR4 with 130k miles on it. Is there a way for me to determine if this update was performed on my LR prior to me acquiring it?
Unfortunately unless it was done by a dealer and shows up in their service history or on carfax, there is no way of knowing without taking the front cover off.
Any thoughts on how often these need cam gears? I'm fixing to open mine up, it has 170k and I'm wondering the chances of bad cam gears. Any way to know if a cam gear is getting worn out?
As far as cam gears go, if maintained properly and regilar oil changes they will remain trouble free. However if they are going back obvois signs would be cam posistion faults along with excessive noise from the top side of that bank around the area of the gear. The noise is different than the chain noise bit hard to describe, more af a chatter than a ticking
@@ChronCrew mine almost sounds more like a harder knock than a tick or chatter. I've taken the belts off and ran it and still hear it. But no codes at all. It's real loud and distinct even with the hood closed....but runs smooth and no codes....tend to fade away around 2000 rpms
@@stephenwhite5444 are you sure the noise is coming from the front of the engine and not the transmission? The transmissions in these tend to have a very distinct 'knocking" noise at idle that is often mistaken for engine noise. Take a listen under the drivers door and see if it sounds louder down there. If not then it sounds like it may be in your best interest to consider the cam gears as well.
@@ChronCrew I got down by the drivers door and it is noticeable, not as loud as from the front but really you can hear it 30 feet away lol. Here is what it sounds like.... th-cam.com/video/Eb3Eng2r0CM/w-d-xo.html Here with the hood up... th-cam.com/video/Bvekw6tJNFk/w-d-xo.html
@@stephenwhite5444 from that video this sounds a bit high pitched to be the the cam gears, it may very well be, but it sounds like a chain is contacting the front cover to me from this video.
I certainly suggest changing the oil while doing this, checking the vacuum pump snd front crank seal for leaks is a good idea as well. The front covers are held on by sealer so no need for gaskets there.
thank you soo much man. i have similar problem, or at least i think. got p0017-00, 0018-00 0019-00 and p0341-00, car ran on the highway at 60mph pretty good. but at idle it stahls, so i think something's off with the timing. (2013 xj 5.0sc
I am interested in getting the Guide and tensioners changed on my 2011 Range Rover SC… Does anyone know who did the video? Or a shop that does it for a reasonable price?
How hard is it to loosen the crank screw and retorque once finished? do theads need any coating for re-install? What type of lube and where is it needed before I replace the cover? Great video, thanks.
The crank bolt is very tight so it can be quite difficult to remove. You must buy or make a counter hold tool to do it properly. No lubricant or thread locker required. Oil resistant rtv sealer used for front covers in some areas.
Just have to take the vacuum pump off below the cover, I've found in most instances they are leaking and need resealed anyhow, plus easier to manage than the water pump.
Hi have you seen any L405 with this? i have a l405 with 92k miles always looking out for this noise. Second question I am looking for a second truck LR4 or 2010-2012 RR, the ones past 150k miles you think are on new tensioners? Can it be that some of these last that high mileage? I do not want to spend 8-10k on a truck and another 3-4k on this repair. Advice would be greatly appreciated
@whodontknowpunn2613 passenger side is usually easier. Most likely, you're getting hung up on the locating pins and dont realize it. That used to happen to me often.
Can the Timing Chains also be replaced with your short method? Or does that require the long major repair to get them replaced? Thanks much for your excellent video. You have saved a lot of extra heartaches.
So do you still do this? Looking to get my tensioners/guides replaced 2012 RRS. No record they were ever done and I never did but starting to think its time at 112k
I had been off sick for a little while but im starting to schedule these again soon, please email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com for scheduling if your still interested
I’ve got new tensioners and guides in. My passenger side crank mark that I’ve made got rubbed off. I don’t think it’s ever moved. My question is, if I rotate everything by hand clock wise would original yellow factory marking on the chains line back up with factory references on the cams and secondary guides?
Unfortunately the original yellow chain markings will not line up, as the upper and lower chain sprockets are different sizes this means that they do not line up again after the engine has been rotated.
However what you could do, count the links between all the factory marks. Then turn the engine to tdc, using the timing marks on the sprokets count the links in between and make sure they match what youve counted between the factory marks.
You just gave me hope! So it is possible to see if timing is off without pulling valve covers off? I don’t quite understand exactly what you mean by counting links between factory markings while at TDC. I can’t see marks on the VVT phasers but looks like yellow chain marks are right there on the spot, but my secondary guide marks are almost a tooth off with factory chain marks. Does that mean that timing might be ok and I’m a tooth off at secondary guides because of sprocket size differences
What you mean is that if one of the cam sprockets moved then it might have an extra link or might be 1 link short between two sprockets compared to amount of marked links between factory chain? And motor has to be set to TDC. Am I getting this right?
@ChronCrew thanks again Matt, great insight and I appreciate you sharing this for everyone's benefit. Your video motivated me to try this, this weekend. Everything went well up to the point where it didn't. During my attempt at replacing the driver side chain tensioner, when I had the chain quite loose to get the chain quide in place I heard the chain jump one tooth on the crank sprocket which allowed the exhaust side cam sprocket to jump 4ish teeth. The intake one never moved, and didn't even appear to be under tension, must of been just the way the engine was rotated. I had my position well mark and was able to get the cam variator back to its original spot by spining it back untill it alligned as well as getting the chain back to its original spot in crank sprocket. Engine spins without any mechanical interference and seems to track nice. Now to the question based on the chain jumping serval teeth on the exhaust variators. Does that mess with the pre-tension. From my limited understanding as long as it back to where it was, which did have some spring resistance, I would think it's okay but looking for your input. Thanks in advance,
Thank you for your video, this will help all of us! 2010 XK with 65k miles, I have chain rattle/ticking only on cold start then it goes away after a few seconds. Should I be concerned or is this pretty normal?
You almost certainly have the old version of the guides and tensioners. Long term there is a probability of failurr, if you have the means to replace them with the updated parts i would recommend doing so.
@@ChronCrew Thanks, really appreciate the feedback! Looks like you left the radiator inl, no access issues? And on Supercharged models, would you be able to leave the supercharger in place as well? Great method.
Ive never had a problem with any of the covers when doing this job, but i always do replace the front main seal now and you have to place rtv in the lower corners of the cover like it was from the factory.
I have a 2011 with about 100kmiles, noisy engine and I can feel slack in the chain through the oil filler. I'm wondering at 100k miles should I be replacing the chain as well, not just the guides/tensioner? would that require removing the valve cover to get the chain out? thank you for putting this out there!
In my experience, no need to change the chains unless they've made contact with something they shouldn't or timing faults are present. Ive done vehicles over 180k with just the guides/tensioners and no ill effects. Yes, doing the chains would require injector and valve cover removal.
My RR SC engine has blown and I am in progress buying a used one.what part numbers I need to change before installing the replacement engine.please help
I finally got around to doing this as proactive maintenance. I never had any restricted performance or timing related codes, just slightly noisy timing chains. After completing the installation it was noticeably quieter, but ended up throwing timing related cords and restricted performance check engine light after a few minutes of idling? Any suggestions? I followed the instructions to a “t”, marked everything, and installation went smooth (about 12 hours).
If yoi have timing codes after doing this then something definitely moved off its mark on you. The codes will be your clue as to what moved, as they will be specific to which bank , which camshaft, and which direction it is off. The only other possibility is that you inadvertently left a connector off one of the camshaft sensors.
Would like to get an appointment to see the timing chain. We are going to come from North Carolina. Read lots of excellent views about your services. Thanks
Hi I have 2016 Range Rover sport with 79000 miles and I have a check engine light on with code p0341 and p0342 some one told me it’s related to timing chain failure can you help me out
Matt, do you still do this fix? I have a 2011 RR Sport Supercharged with 79k, and it.. does NOT have an issue. Yet. Because we know it should be changed eventually. I'm thinking that having the guides AND the actuators changed before anything happens isn't a bad idea.
I do these on occasion still. I was sick and taking a break for a bit but im going to start scheduling again. Email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com please for scheduling
Also, you said you pull the chains to get the driver's side guide in. Do you just pull them off of the crankshaft sprocket or do you pull them off the camshaft sprockets as well? It looks like it would be hard to get the chain to fit between the VVT actuator and the valve cover? Thanks again!
@@ericparks6682 stretch is indicated by measuring the length of the bolt and comparing it to spec. I dont have this spec memorized however as i made a gauge early on to quickly check the bolts upon removal. Again ive never had one that was stretched and its a very unlikely scenario on this bolt.
Matt did this job for us early October 2024. We picked it up on October 11. The car was noticeably more quiet without the chain slapping noise. He also gave us a call about some other issues he found and recommendations, such as a leaking valve cover gasket and he repaired them as well. We drove it from his location, just outside Gettysburg, PA, to our home in Indianapolis with no problems and the car ran really well. We paid about $700 to ship the car to him, definitely worth it.
Awesome, might end up using him aswell if I cant figure it out lol.
Just posting a follow up: Matt did this job (and supercharger isolator as well as the coolant stuff) for me last month.
This guy is the real deal. Our 2011 rover has been nice and quiet and just runs really well now, excellent work and turnaround time. Communication was great! I wish more people were as capable as Matt is. Outstanding.
@porter4856 Thanks so much for the review, glad to hear everything is going well.
Can you share Matt's info? Name of Shop? Location?
@@ChronCrewName of Shop? Location?
@donaldhicks8663 send me an email at mattchronister@hotmail.com please and I can provide you any info you need! Thanks
@@porter4856
Sorry to bother you I have a problem with my 12 LR4 and trying to find this shop that helped you can you help me out please.. Jonathan!
Matt we thank you so much for taking care of Land Rover. We came all the way from North Carolina after reading the amazing reviews of the problem we had and how you take care. We just came home flying with no rattling noise. Not only he took care of the noise but took care of other coming problems. Also saved lots of money what dealers were going to charge. Matt thank you very much and hope to see you in future too.👍
I found out that I had the frequently seen timing tensioner issues in the 5.0 LRJ engine for my 2011 Jaguar XFR. The dealer prices were $10k+. I found Matt through this TH-cam videos regarding this topic and contacted him. It was clear he had done more than a few of these and we set a date for drop-off. Matt did the job in a day and did it right. His cost was less than a quarter of the dealer rates and it was well worth the drive from SW Virginia to near Gettysburg. If I lived closer, Matt would be who I took all my cars to - an honest mechanic!
Matt I cannot thank you enough for helping out and repairing my LR4. The chain noise is gone and for a fraction of the price. I’ve seen quotes for 8k plus. I drove my LR4 to Matts shop and he had it repaired same day. I was able to drive home around 7:30pm. Matt took care of concierge and recommended a few great spots around the area while I killed time. Even with getting the vehicle there, this was easily the most feasible economic option. 10/10 solution and service I would HIGHLY recommend contacting Matt if your (or one you plan on buying) Jag or Rover is making chain noise, great work.
where is Matt located?
@@edsonmagallanes Gettysburg, Pennsylvania
@@darrenwhite1939 i’m in virginia, if he can fix it the same day, I swear I will drive a day before. Any chance you can share his contact info?
@@edsonmagallanes email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com for scheduling. Thanks!
Ok thanks
Review (5/5 Experience)
Leaving Matt a review after he serviced my Land Rover LR4. We did the timing job and a coolant system refresh on my 2012 with the 5.0L v8. Matt did an awesome job, can’t recommend him enough. He is an honest mechanic who knows these Jaguar Land Rover vehicles well. Matt will take good care of your JLR vehicle!
Thanks so much for the review, truly appreciated. Was great working with you.
I just shipped my LR4 down to Matt for the timing chain tensioner replacement, and he did a fantastic job for a very reasonable price (1/3 the estimate from the dealer). He got it done in just two days and was very professional to deal with. Highly recommended!
Thanks so much for the kind words, it was a pleasure working with you!
Do you still offer these services?
AAA+ recommendation!
I recently purchased a 2013 L320, which I had shipped from AZ to Matt.
He did an OUTSTANDING job with this repair and he saved me a ton of dough in the process. My L320 is running like a top!
I cannot recommend his service enough.
Thank you Matt!
My pleasure, thanks so much for your business and the kind words.
@@ChronCrew matt, how can I contact you?
@@ChronCrew Matt, I’m in Virginia, I may need your assistance soon, how can we get a hold of you?
@@edsonmagallanes please email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com. Thanks!
@@ChronCrew - where are you out of? Are you taking on new customers?
Wow! Just wow! Thank you so much, not only for the video, but also taking time to answer a lot of the questions. The answers helped just as much as the video, as I was about to tackle this on my '11 XFR, but had a LOT of the same questions as these guys, particularly regarding what exactly I needed to do for just the zip-tie tensioner/guide replacement method vs. the workshop manual's instructions for the full-on timing chain replacement. Great work, and thank you!!!!!
I like you left water pump on. I was gonna spend money on the connectors but you just saved me 150$! Thanks
Great video. I attempted to do this job without valve cover removal, but my cam adjusters rotated because I didn’t lock them down. Love the zip tie trick!!!
Mine were changed at about 85k miles, I’m at 102k miles now. I kept the chain, and only replaced the guides and tensioner. All is holding up well with the repair!
One note, I reused my valve cover gasket, and wish I would have replaced it, as it’s now slowing seeping oil.
Hi, thanks so much for posting. Makes me feel a lot better about getting this done and not getting ripped off! Be well sir!
This is awesome. I knew there was an easier way. Mines at 70k. Just starting to make some ticking. I'm doing this along with the water pump,SC snout kit and probably a fan clutch. I've done the belt on the 300zx v6 overhead cam. So I ain't scared, 😂
Make sure to mark your chains and sprockets. I had one jump on me a few weeks ago and without those marks it would've been a nightmare resetting everything
Be aware that Jaguar/LR have altered the design of the tensioners, changing the angle of attack or how it applies pressure to the guides. Make sure to get the new ones. This problem was corrected for the late 2012-2013 models. Have your dealer check your VIN number if you are unsure your truck is affected. ChronCrew, excellent work here, thanks for coming up with this. I hope I never need it for ours!
Just did a ‘14 model with the old style tensioners and no button on guides.
@@jonathanallen8236 it's halfway through 2014
Finally managed to snake a borescope camera down my oil filler to verify whether my 190,000 mile NA 2012 RRS has had the tensioners/guide rails replaced at any point.
Quite surprised to see an 11/2011 date stamp on the guide rail and the factory installed, original style tensioner in place! Must be the highest mileage AJ133 of all time existing with factory fitted original tensioners!
Making some noise from the drivers’ side bank, looks like I’ll be doing this job ASAP.
@adowst i actually just did this repair last week on one with 175k, that was the highest i have done so far I think
Wow! You are the best. Thank you for sharing and saving us a considerable amount of time.
Thank you worked like a charm! Made a crappy job less crappy and money in the pocket!
Wish I was closer to you, would for sure have you take care of the 5.0 in my RRS. Looks like I’ll need to tackle this one on my own.
Ever encounter one of these that exhibited a “stretched” chain, or worn to the point where there is excess slack between cam gears that can’t be taken out with replacing the guides in this way? At all possible to replace the chains with this method? Almost looks like you could…?
Any issues with sealing up the front timing covers against the valve covers you didn’t remove? You put RTV on the point between the block and timing cover so the valve cover gasket seals up?
No issues, rtv between the timing cover and the block yes, rubber gaskets on the valve covers seal properly if not already damaged. You must be very particular as to how these covers are reinstalled.
Chron crew
Thanks for making this video
do you set things at at TDC before zip tying the cam sprockets or just lock them up where ever they happen to be? Also, is the crank pulley hold tool the only thing you use to remove the bolt (i.e. is it enough) or do you also need to put a hold tool on the flywheel? Thanks!
Thanks for the reply ChronCrew , my car has 210000kms on it would it need chains or as you explained in you comments do they not really streach/break ?.and would you know what tool is the best one to buy to hold the crankshaft, then remove the pulley?. also do you need to ratate the engine to a certain point to zip tie the cams or tie them where you see them?
They may stretch some, i have not seen a broken set yet, this does not mean it can't happen just that i have not witnessed it. If you plan to keep the vehicle for a very long time perhaps its advisable to do the chains as well. I made my crankshaft holding tool so i am unsure what the best retail option is. Crankshaft position is only important in that your counterhold tool can rest on the frame rail when bolted up, other than that it is not important for this procedure.
@@ChronCrew is there a possibility that you'll slightly spin the crankshaft even though the dampener is completely locked in place? Im guessing as long as you mark the top sprockets and chains you can always set it back in place, am i correct?
I recently purchased a 2012 RRS which allegedly has had the timing chain job done at some point, but not documented so I can’t be sure. 156k miles.
There is no rattle at startup, and the chain feels taught/tight when attempting to move it through the oil filler.
I recently noticed that there’s ticking noise coming from the drivers’ side front cam cover area, where the timing chains would be. It is slightly louder, but sounds similar to the direct injectors, but is independent of the injectors. It sounds just like a ticking lifter, and is only present at idle and low rpm. It goes away at higher rpm. It does not sound like rattling timing chains.
What do you think this could be? Cam phaser ticking?
I did an oil change yesterday with LiquiMoly 0W-20, as I had read this was compatible and potentially better than the 5W-20. What do you recommend for oil? Go back to 5W-20? I have heard of even using a higher weight oil in these, even 5W-40. I’m not sure if the noise was or wasn’t present prior to oil change.
If it sounds like a lifter tick, very likely to be the tensioner on that side giving up some slack, however as always it could be one of so many different things. Noisy phasers in my experience almost always are accompanied by a timing fault as well for that particular phaser.
As for oil, I recommend 5w-30 on these with some milage on them now, I would not be opposed to using 5w-40 in hotter climates either. For me, 0w-20 is much too thin.
I was checking to see if you are still doing appts for timing chain issues and replacing the tensioners.
Hey Matthew, yes i am, i replied to your email. Thanks
@@ChronCrew thank you for replying. Was not sure if the email went through correctly
This is so great, thank you for sharing. I plan to do this to my 2011 LR4 with 100k miles. Its new to me, and I dont have service records. what else would you replace while doing this job?
Water pump, thermostat, belts, main seal, and oil change are recommended at the same time.
Hello thanks for this video.
It awesome that people take the time to do things like this so people like me can save some 💰 and potentially thousands of $'s..
I apologize in advance if you already answered this question but I want to know if I can change the chains also using this exact method ?
If so is there anything additional I need to do to get the chains out and back on or can I just simply take em out ?
Thanks again for your help and time.
My pleasure
You must modify the oil tube on the drivers side to geg the chaons off using this method, however the updated guides and tensioners are designed to compensate for chain stretch so unless there is contact damage on the chains there is no need to replace them in my opinion.
@@ChronCrew where are you located?
@@DakotaDaGSD Gettysburg Pennsylvania
Sorry if this has already been answered, is there a more reliable way to lock the camshaft pulley using this method? I'm thinking some kind of aftermarket machined design that clamps onto the pulley windows?
None that im aware off. While there is demand to have the guides and tensioners replaced, most dont do it themselves so the demand for a tool is low. I now use 6 zip ties per side and a wedge tool on each bank during these repairs.
Great video, thanks very much!!
So do you know how to find TDC for the crank? i have a 2015 range rover 5.0 SC. I do have the tool but i dont where to put the tool in to align the crank. can you help
There are many ways to do this. Removing the cyl 1 spark plug and turning the engine until the compression stroke then using a long 1/4" extension to dial in tdc is most common. If the camshafts are exposed you can turn the engine until the cyl 1 camshaft lobes have closed the intake valves and halway to reopening the exhaust valves, also you can use the marks on the cam phasers and ensure they are point upward with the crankshaft keyway in the 6 oclock position. There is a plug on the underside of the engine that needs to be removed and the square special tool fits into the crank sensor phaser in only the tdc position.
replace-timing-belt.com/how-to-replace-timing-chain-on-land-rover-range-rover-sport-5-0-v8-2010/
Hopefully this is helpful
Not sure you'll see this as the video is a few years old, but can I ask where you are located. Just bought a l322. Thinking of doing the chain and tensioner. Thanks
I do several of these a month, located near gettysburg pa
What year was this? I have noticed for sure that the 2013s had the old version a guy with a 2015 had the new version. Was this a 2014 or 2013?
ive seen the older style in some 13 and 14 vehicles, never in a 15 that i've seen.
Hi this is a great video I was thinking of doing this repair myself, just wanted to ask a few questions before I do it.I live in Perth Australia and no one wants to do this repair, except stealerships that say it costs about $8000,what I want to know is do you need a tool to keep the crank pulley still while you undo the crank bolt you spoke about or will the crank not move while you are undoing the crank bolt? then can you just use a pulley removal tool, on the crank pulley?. when you get to where you are showing the tensioners/chains ect in your video if you have locked the cams with the cable ties and the crank is still and marked, what is stopping you putting new chains on ? as the chain is only the loop? or am I missing something
You will need to buy or make a tool to hold the crankshaft in order to remove the bolt. Or remove the front end of the vehicle and use a very high powered impact gun. After the bolt is out a pulley remover is used to pull the pulley off. With everything locked you can reomeve the chains for replacement should you choose to do so.
Massively helpful video thanks!!! What did you make to lock the crankshaft? I see you left the radiator and did you leave the AC undisturbed?
I made a bar that bolts to the crank pulley to hold it still why loosening the bolt. I do leave the AC undisturbed.
@@ChronCrew thanks for video. Question, did you change the friction washer?
Can u change the chains it’s way also ,if so how do u get the chain over the oil tube on driver side without pulling valve cover
Hello Matt. This is a great video. Do you think we should change the water pump and thermostat while doing this job or no? As well as should the chain be replaced?
Chains are not necessary in my experience/opinion when they have not contacted the timing cover. Additionally valves vavle covers need removed to do this properly. I replace the water pump and thermostat on most that i do.
My 2011 hse Range Rover knocks like it’s coming apart from the inside when started, but goes away with a tapping noise after that. Is this a timing chain guide and tensioner issue?
When the tensioners begin to fail the noise is most noticable at startup, this very likely could be your concern. In any case, the original guide and tensioner design is flawed, if they have not already been updated, it is highly recommended to have them done.
What’s the torque spec when putting bolt back on
Hey bro, do you have a trick for putting the upper cover back on without losing all the fresh silicone? With the valve cover still torqued down and it having a couple pins/studs, it makes it hard to push straight in.
I had to open mine back up because the new phaser I bought apparently had the reluctor wheel slightly bent in shipping so the sensor wasnt picking the whole tab up and it was messing up the reading of the timing.
Anyway, if you have any suggestions id appreciate it!!!
Its difficult for sure, but after a few dozen it starts to get easier. I use 2 flat heads under the bottom of the cover, rest the top just under the edge of the valve cover, then pivot using the flat heads and press the cover over the dowels.
@@ChronCrew huge help!
Awesome video! Hey quick question....have they changed the part number of the tensioner since you did this video? I'm seeing part LR095472 for the tensioner. I have a 2011 full size Range Rover Supercharged. I'm excited to do the job this way, I hope it cuts the time in half!
I hadnt realized there was any change in part number but looking around it appears that new number is correct however the same part as the previous number. So either should be fine and make no difference. I will update if i find out otherwise.
I tried to read the comment but was wondering if the S/C has to come off to complete using this method? Also I have the Jaguar XJL 5,0 SC but I believe they are the same engines. Correct me if I'm wrong please. Thanks
It does not need to come off for this
Thanks so much for the effort Matt. You're a good man!
Thank you for the kind words
Great idea! Wanted to know if you used the suggested special tool to remove the crankshaft pulley or did a standard pulley remover work? Thanks
Thank you. I use a universal balancer/steering wheel puller on these.
Is it timing cover and front cylinder head covers seals on sealant or it has some sort of gasket what also needs to be bought?
Thank you
Its a sealant, i prefer ford powerstroke sealant but any high grade gasket maker sealant is sufficient. The "right stuff" by permatex is pretty good.
Do you need to replace the 12.9 crank shaft bolt when doing this or you can reuse it? I think I have a weak tensioner or a broken bolt on one of the guides. So I'm planning on replacing the tensioners, bolts, and guides.
I keep one in stock to measure against the used ones for any bolt stretch. If i ever find on stretched i'll replace it, hasnt happened yet. Only have done a handful of bolts at customer request.
@@ChronCrew
Thanx for replying. I'm going to try this zip-tie method next week. If the chains are stretched, I may have to take it all the way to PA and drop it off with you. LOL! I'm planning on changing the bolts, guides, and tensioners. Hopefully, I don't have to mess with the coolant pipes much. 2016 RRS SCV6
Would love to hear chain noise vs HPFP noise vs supercharger coupler noise.
Getting ready to do this job. Do you have to loosen the valve covers to get the timing chain covers off? How long did the whole job take you? Were there any write ups on this replacement on the forums?
You only need to remove the front 3 valve cover bolts on each side. Whole job is about 10hrs. Unfortunately no write ups that im aware of
Are you still doing these? I’m interested but I have some cam follower noise on the top end dealer says. Worn lifter buckets?
Yes, i do several a month
I have a supercharged V8 L405 that has just started to be noisy. Can this method be done on this motor?
What year is yours, it should be the same.
@@ChronCrew 2016 with 53,000miles.
@@lear60man Appears to be the same engine, however it would have been produced with the updated guides and tensioners. The tensioners themselves have been revised more recently and certainly have a possibility of failure however, as well the supercharger isolator could also have failed and be causing the noise. In either case i have extensive experience with both repairs and beleive it would be the same or very similar to do on your L405.
also do you need to ratate the engine to a certain point to zip tie the cams or tie them where you see them?" where they last rotated to when the engine was switched off?
Any position is fine so long as you lock everything in that postion prior to taking tension off of the chains
So, when you do this , you don’t have to retention the phasers?
Hi there. I have 2012 5.0l supercharged Jaguar, 73,000km (50,000 miles) is it possible to do this repair on my car? And do you think it is necessary to replace the chains? Or is it enough to just replace the tensioners and guides?
Hi. It is absolutely possible to do this repair on your vehicle. Unless there are signs of the chains contacting metal inside (very loud when running) it is my opinion that just tensioners and guides are sufficient.
@@ChronCrew thanks. There are 2 guides from the tensioners sides and 2 opposite do i need to change all 4 of them? The sound isnt so loud and it goes away after few minutes.
Хасан Ахмадов did you ever get to it? I have the same issue as you described on my 2012 Jaguar XJL Supercharged. Just to see what the stealership would say, they quoted me roughly $8000 for this. Lmao
@@Unrealpechca I think I have the noise that everyone says it makes when your guides are going bad. Mine also makes an "extra noise" in the begining then goes away. What did you ended up doing? Fixed it or no? Still making noise? Did it get louder? Thanks
Matt, Great Vid...but just as great are your responses to all the questions.
If I were to summarize your method for myself, is it correct that if you are just doing the tensioners and guides, you never need to worry about the cam or crank positions as long as the chains NEVER move from any of their original gear positions, correct? Was trying to figure out why so many folks were having timing errors post using this method and can only assume chain positions moved on a gear tooth somewhere (which also underscores the added complexity of replacing the chains as marking counting the links/positions on the original chains seems imperative). Fair summary?
Long drive from CO; otherwise, I would book an appt to have you do this for me. Cheers!
It is imperative to mark the locations of the chains in relation to all sprockets prior to starting the job, this is the key to not worrying about chain position before beginning. I now remove both chains from the crank sprocket during replacement to make replacement easier, without proper marking this would be impossible.
What kind of sealant you used to put covers back on? And one more question did you lock flywheel using timing tool that goes into crank sensor hole?
I prefer international t-442 sealant on every application, best engine sealant ive ever come across. I do not lock the crankshaft in any way when doing this job.
ChronCrew Thank you!
Very welcome, thanks for watching!
Crank won’t move it’s the cams you have to worry about.
I have an 2015 LR4 and was told that it needs a new tensioner. I thought this was common issue for 10 to 12 but have you seen any on newer year models?
The tensioners could certainly fail on later models as well, they have not revised these parts only the guides. Ive not personally had to do any that new myself, but again it is certainly possible.
Great video will this procedure work on a 2011 jaguar 5.0 n/a ,and will the parts interchange thank for the video and help
Thank you. Yes same thing on the 2011 na
They are very similar to the Ford Coyote engine.
How would someone know if a cam variator is bad? I'm doing the timing (sucky job, btw) and when I rotate my engine clockwise, the right side (passenger) intake variator seems to turn but sporadically "release" as if it's spring loaded. It rotates about 1/8th of a turn every time it releases as I continue to rotate the engine. None of the others do that. Not sure this matters, but It does make a dull click sound when it rotates. Is that normal operation? Any help would be appreciated.
Did it end up being a problem?
Matt - Thanks for making this video - I am undertaking the Tensioner / Guide upgrade on my 2010 L322 Range Rover 5.0 S/C here in the UK - Do you replace the "fixed" guide or can these not be replaced doing only a partial strip of the chains and timing assembly ? - Thanks for any reply - cheeRS Dave
Hey man, i accidentally moved my crank counter clockwise about a quarter turn to fit my crank holding tool, do you think im screwed r.e. the timing? it didnt sound like it skipped any teeth but could i rectify this by rotating it (clockwise) until i have all the timing chain alignment marks in the right positions?
Your probably fine, its best not to turn it counterclockwise but you can to some extent in order to fit the counter hold as you have. If a chain were to jump you would hear an audible click
@@ChronCrew thanks, if i heard the chain jump would i have to take the valve covers off or could i set the timing in this scenario
Thanks for posting. My 2015 LR4 3.0 has been making noise for a while. it has 75k miles on it with oil changes every 7500 miles. Is it safe to assume the 3.0 sc is the similar procedure as the 5.0? Do you not recommend trying to remove the crank bolt with an impact gun? Thanks again for your time. I've been a tech for 35yrs so i have a little knowledge, just enough to get myself trouble :))
If i lock flywheel via starter and crank sensor would i still need crank holding tool to undo the crank bolt?
Yes u will
ishaan zavery Why though? If it’s locked in two places already?
Vitaly Bezyazychnyy you may not believe me but you’ll either break the tool or the flex plate.
Hello.
Where you located.
Thanks
Just followed your tips on my tensioner replacement. Thank you! I'm having a hell of a time re-installing the secondary belt for the radiator fan. It doesn't have a tensioner and it's super stiff. Any tips?
Yes this belt is a pain the first time u deal with it. You must put it on one pulley fully and just have it started on the other. Then using a decent sized flat screw driver use the ribs of the pulley to pry the belt toward the pulley and turn the crankshaft clockwise at the same time which will turn the belt onto the pulley. You may have to turn it a few times to fully work the belt on. Do not turn the crankshaft counterclockwise.
@@ChronCrew I used a stretch belt tool. It was the only way I could get it on. Thanks!
@@jehoonkim9038 ok, good deal. I was assuming you didnt have access to one so i gave you the back yard proceedure lol. Hope everything works ok for you.
A belt stretch tool is a flat head screwdriver.
How can I get in contact with you about a repair?
Hi Darren, I replied to your message on Facebook, email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com. Thanks!
Reading lots of conflicting information about setting the chain tensioners, the jag manual says they need to be set by prying the guide until a click is heard, but the land rover manual is different.
Hey bro, when putting these back together does the harmonic balancer orientate a specific way onto the crank flange where the 6 bolts go through? It looks like it's fine to bolt it on in any direction. I'm having a issue where the supercharger belt is slipping backwards 1 rib at the harmonic balancer (stays in place on all the other pulleys)...but 6 pulley bolts and main crank bolts are all tight. You have any thoughts on what could cause this??
The pulley can bolt to the flange in any orientation, i would guess the crank bolt is not fully tight and so the cank pulley is sitting further from the motor, those cranks bolts get TIGHT. Ive had a few feel tight before they were actually seated.
Bro, I'm scared something went wrong with my job....we zip tied the phasers real good and really never took the chain off the sprockets, and we marked them...but now after putting it back together it has the codes P0016/P0017 which it never had timing codes before the job, just noise. In the scan tool on that bank, as the engine is revved the timing for that bank just shows 180 and 73 and never changes (other bank changes). Is it possible the sensor is bad? Are those codes for the cam sensors on front of engine, or are those solenoids that control the phasers rather than sensors? Is it possible it could be anything else besides a physical timing issue?? I want to exhaust any possibilities before tearing it back apart.
Also, no odd noises or anything, it sounds real good and smooth.
Those codes are indicating that both camshafts on bank 1 do not correlate properly with the crankshaft. Given that both camshafts have this fault on one bank would indicate to me that the chain did move on the crankshaft itself. In my experience, depending where the engine is locked to do this job, occasionally the chain wants to walk itself one tooth counter clockwise on bank one at the crank sprocket. A bad sensor could case one of these faults, but both sensors would have to be bad to cause both faults. Unfortunately it sounds like your bank 1 chain did move on you.
@@ChronCrew when the chain is off a tooth does it crank and run smooth (but in restrictive mode)? What do the cam sensors show in a scan tool when the chain is out of place? I ask because the timing on bank 2 sensors (good bank) fluctuates around but on the bank 1 sensors (faulty bank) the timing is frozen and doesn't change when you give it gas. Because of that I was hoping for something faulty with the sensors....but would that be normal behavior in the scan tool with an out of place chain as well?
@@stephenwhite5444 yes the engine can run smooth and normal when only off one tooth, however the computer has noticed it is off so its placed the engine in restrictive running mode and locked the timing on that bank so that is no longer adjusting freely as it would normally.
@@ChronCrew is it possible to pull the covers and turn the engine till the chain marking line back up on the phasers then see if the crank is at 6:00? Or will the markings never line back up correctly?
Are you still doing this? Im in VA and I just bought a 2011 RRS SC with 50k miles. No timing noise yet but its such a nice example I want to do the guides and tensioners before it becomes a problem.
I am still doing these. I've just replied to your email with the details. Thanks!
Hey
@@ChronCrew Please let know if you still doing this. 80k RRS
excellent video
Thank you
Great video; thanks for posting! I have a 2012 LR4 with 130k miles on it. Is there a way for me to determine if this update was performed on my LR prior to me acquiring it?
Unfortunately unless it was done by a dealer and shows up in their service history or on carfax, there is no way of knowing without taking the front cover off.
Good job, the question for me, where are yoj located, so i can bring my car to you. Im in GA,
Im very near gettysburg pa, i do several of these a month. Email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com if interested
Any thoughts on how often these need cam gears? I'm fixing to open mine up, it has 170k and I'm wondering the chances of bad cam gears. Any way to know if a cam gear is getting worn out?
As far as cam gears go, if maintained properly and regilar oil changes they will remain trouble free. However if they are going back obvois signs would be cam posistion faults along with excessive noise from the top side of that bank around the area of the gear. The noise is different than the chain noise bit hard to describe, more af a chatter than a ticking
@@ChronCrew mine almost sounds more like a harder knock than a tick or chatter. I've taken the belts off and ran it and still hear it. But no codes at all. It's real loud and distinct even with the hood closed....but runs smooth and no codes....tend to fade away around 2000 rpms
@@stephenwhite5444 are you sure the noise is coming from the front of the engine and not the transmission? The transmissions in these tend to have a very distinct 'knocking" noise at idle that is often mistaken for engine noise. Take a listen under the drivers door and see if it sounds louder down there. If not then it sounds like it may be in your best interest to consider the cam gears as well.
@@ChronCrew I got down by the drivers door and it is noticeable, not as loud as from the front but really you can hear it 30 feet away lol. Here is what it sounds like....
th-cam.com/video/Eb3Eng2r0CM/w-d-xo.html
Here with the hood up...
th-cam.com/video/Bvekw6tJNFk/w-d-xo.html
@@stephenwhite5444 from that video this sounds a bit high pitched to be the the cam gears, it may very well be, but it sounds like a chain is contacting the front cover to me from this video.
Great Video, thanks for sharing. Are there any additional gaskets needed, or other items "while you're in there"?
I certainly suggest changing the oil while doing this, checking the vacuum pump snd front crank seal for leaks is a good idea as well. The front covers are held on by sealer so no need for gaskets there.
Don't you have to remove the cam gears in order to remove the chains?
Or removing the guides and tensioners gives you enough slack to remove them?
No sir, cam gears do not need to come off. Removing guides and tensioners is enough.
@@ChronCrew That is good news for me - thank you kindly for the reply! :)
Go to pawlikautomotives TH-cam channel and they have the who process filmed for you
thank you soo much man. i have similar problem, or at least i think. got p0017-00, 0018-00 0019-00 and p0341-00, car ran on the highway at 60mph pretty good. but at idle it stahls, so i think something's off with the timing. (2013 xj 5.0sc
Cam adjusters sound like they are failing possibly
@@ChronCrew hi there. Can you do a chain job. Please let me know. I’ll drop my rover.
useful article, thank you. about how many miles are you fron NYC? thank you
Looks like between 200 and 250 miles from there.
ChronCrew can you replace the chains doing the repair this way? I purchased the whole timing chain kit. Supercharged version
I am interested in getting the Guide and tensioners changed on my 2011 Range Rover SC… Does anyone know who did the video? Or a shop that does it for a reasonable price?
You can email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com and i can get you scheduled if you like.
How hard is it to loosen the crank screw and retorque once finished? do theads need any coating for re-install? What type of lube and where is it needed before I replace the cover? Great video, thanks.
The crank bolt is very tight so it can be quite difficult to remove. You must buy or make a counter hold tool to do it properly. No lubricant or thread locker required. Oil resistant rtv sealer used for front covers in some areas.
@@ChronCrew Thanks. Think I'll buy some tools.
How did you pull crank cover without taking off water pump??? Wow
Just have to take the vacuum pump off below the cover, I've found in most instances they are leaking and need resealed anyhow, plus easier to manage than the water pump.
Hi have you seen any L405 with this? i have a l405 with 92k miles always looking out for this noise. Second question I am looking for a second truck LR4 or 2010-2012 RR, the ones past 150k miles you think are on new tensioners? Can it be that some of these last that high mileage? I do not want to spend 8-10k on a truck and another 3-4k on this repair. Advice would be greatly appreciated
how did you get the passenger front cover back on without removing the top cover that lip is giving me hell
im on a 17 range 5.0 sc
@whodontknowpunn2613 passenger side is usually easier. Most likely, you're getting hung up on the locating pins and dont realize it. That used to happen to me often.
@@ChronCrew mines a lip on the bottom that’s youre supposed to sit in first
can you send me your email
Can the Timing Chains also be replaced with your short method? Or does that require the long major repair to get them replaced? Thanks much for your excellent video. You have saved a lot of extra heartaches.
I would not try to do change the Chains with zip tying can gears.
So do you still do this? Looking to get my tensioners/guides replaced 2012 RRS. No record they were ever done and I never did but starting to think its time at 112k
I had been off sick for a little while but im starting to schedule these again soon, please email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com for scheduling if your still interested
I’ve got new tensioners and guides in. My passenger side crank mark that I’ve made got rubbed off. I don’t think it’s ever moved. My question is, if I rotate everything by hand clock wise would original yellow factory marking on the chains line back up with factory references on the cams and secondary guides?
Unfortunately the original yellow chain markings will not line up, as the upper and lower chain sprockets are different sizes this means that they do not line up again after the engine has been rotated.
However what you could do, count the links between all the factory marks. Then turn the engine to tdc, using the timing marks on the sprokets count the links in between and make sure they match what youve counted between the factory marks.
You just gave me hope! So it is possible to see if timing is off without pulling valve covers off? I don’t quite understand exactly what you mean by counting links between factory markings while at TDC. I can’t see marks on the VVT phasers but looks like yellow chain marks are right there on the spot, but my secondary guide marks are almost a tooth off with factory chain marks. Does that mean that timing might be ok and I’m a tooth off at secondary guides because of sprocket size differences
What you mean is that if one of the cam sprockets moved then it might have an extra link or might be 1 link short between two sprockets compared to amount of marked links between factory chain? And motor has to be set to TDC. Am I getting this right?
@@Oger3011 yes i believe you understand me correctly
@ChronCrew thanks again Matt, great insight and I appreciate you sharing this for everyone's benefit. Your video motivated me to try this, this weekend. Everything went well up to the point where it didn't. During my attempt at replacing the driver side chain tensioner, when I had the chain quite loose to get the chain quide in place I heard the chain jump one tooth on the crank sprocket which allowed the exhaust side cam sprocket to jump 4ish teeth. The intake one never moved, and didn't even appear to be under tension, must of been just the way the engine was rotated.
I had my position well mark and was able to get the cam variator back to its original spot by spining it back untill it alligned as well as getting the chain back to its original spot in crank sprocket. Engine spins without any mechanical interference and seems to track nice.
Now to the question based on the chain jumping serval teeth on the exhaust variators. Does that mess with the pre-tension. From my limited understanding as long as it back to where it was, which did have some spring resistance, I would think it's okay but looking for your input.
Thanks in advance,
Thank you for your video, this will help all of us! 2010 XK with 65k miles, I have chain rattle/ticking only on cold start then it goes away after a few seconds. Should I be concerned or is this pretty normal?
You almost certainly have the old version of the guides and tensioners. Long term there is a probability of failurr, if you have the means to replace them with the updated parts i would recommend doing so.
How long would you say it takes to do it this way.?
Roughly 8-10 hrs depending how things go.
Great method, thank you!
Did you lock the crank at all for pulley removal?
Yes i built a counterhold tool for pulley removal, crank bolt is very tight on these
@@ChronCrew Thanks, really appreciate the feedback! Looks like you left the radiator inl, no access issues? And on Supercharged models, would you be able to leave the supercharger in place as well?
Great method.
Do you recommend replacing the timing chain cover with new when doing this job?
Ive never had a problem with any of the covers when doing this job, but i always do replace the front main seal now and you have to place rtv in the lower corners of the cover like it was from the factory.
I have a 2011 with about 100kmiles, noisy engine and I can feel slack in the chain through the oil filler. I'm wondering at 100k miles should I be replacing the chain as well, not just the guides/tensioner? would that require removing the valve cover to get the chain out? thank you for putting this out there!
In my experience, no need to change the chains unless they've made contact with something they shouldn't or timing faults are present. Ive done vehicles over 180k with just the guides/tensioners and no ill effects. Yes, doing the chains would require injector and valve cover removal.
My RR SC engine has blown and I am in progress buying a used one.what part numbers I need to change before installing the replacement engine.please help
Please see the video around 4:18 for proper part #s
Just one thing, cam tools do not lock the engine at TDC.
Great video, Thank you! Where are you located? Thanks
Gettysburg pa
I finally got around to doing this as proactive maintenance. I never had any restricted performance or timing related codes, just slightly noisy timing chains.
After completing the installation it was noticeably quieter, but ended up throwing timing related cords and restricted performance check engine light after a few minutes of idling? Any suggestions?
I followed the instructions to a “t”, marked everything, and installation went smooth (about 12 hours).
If yoi have timing codes after doing this then something definitely moved off its mark on you. The codes will be your clue as to what moved, as they will be specific to which bank , which camshaft, and which direction it is off. The only other possibility is that you inadvertently left a connector off one of the camshaft sensors.
Thanks for the quick reply. I’ll look into this and post an update.
@@contiautoyyc so where's your update?
@@renli3d Thanks for the reminder renli3d. The vehicle ended up having a bad cam adjuster. We went back in and replaced all 4.
@@contiautoyyc it's strange that the cam phasers were fine before the timing tensioner job. How did you diagnose the issue?
Hi Matt where are you located?
Near Gettysburg, Pennsylvania. Contact me at mattchronister@hotmail.com for more information. Thanks!
Where are you located, would like to bring our LR4 for timing chain rattling. Thanks
Aspers Pennsylvania
Would like to get an appointment to see the timing chain. We are going to come from North Carolina. Read lots of excellent views about your services. Thanks
We have 2013 LR4
@user-xb2mo4fc6f sounds great. Please email for at mattchronister@hotmail.com for scheduling!
@@ChronCrewI. I would like to schedule an appointment .
Hi I have 2016 Range Rover sport with 79000 miles and I have a check engine light on with code p0341 and p0342 some one told me it’s related to timing chain failure can you help me out
Matt, do you still do this fix? I have a 2011 RR Sport Supercharged with 79k, and it.. does NOT have an issue. Yet. Because we know it should be changed eventually. I'm thinking that having the guides AND the actuators changed before anything happens isn't a bad idea.
I do these on occasion still. I was sick and taking a break for a bit but im going to start scheduling again. Email me at mattchronister@hotmail.com please for scheduling
@@ChronCrew Glad to hear you're feeling. better. I'm in the Philadelphia area so I'll have to schedule a visit, I'll email you soon.
Hello, Where are you located?.. I'm having such issue with my '10 RR Sport
South central Pennsylvania
Great video. How much do you charge? My wife has 2011 LR4 . Can't stand the noise at this point. Embarrassing especially going through drive thru :)
@chroncrew, can you tell me the name or phone number for your shop? I am looking to get this service done.
@@ChronCrew nytolagatti@gmail.com if you can I would like to get my range serviced in the buffalo area willing to travel to your shop.
I need my Range Rover serviced, can you please contact me@ john.cacciamani@comcast.net
Does the engine have to be at TDC ?
Engine does not need to be at tdc doing it the way i do in the video
@@ChronCrew I did everything as usual as I’m mechanically inclined also . Engine runs great but I’m getting a p0017 code now and only that code
Hey man, thanks for posting the video! Do you typically replace the crank pulley bolt when you do the repair or is it good to re-use?
Its ok to reuse as long as its not stretched. Ive done a few dozen of these and have never found a stretched crank bolt.
Also, you said you pull the chains to get the driver's side guide in. Do you just pull them off of the crankshaft sprocket or do you pull them off the camshaft sprockets as well? It looks like it would be hard to get the chain to fit between the VVT actuator and the valve cover? Thanks again!
@@ericparks6682 i pull them off the crank pulley only
How do you know its scretched? Do you measure it or does it have some type of visual indication?
@@ericparks6682 stretch is indicated by measuring the length of the bolt and comparing it to spec. I dont have this spec memorized however as i made a gauge early on to quickly check the bolts upon removal. Again ive never had one that was stretched and its a very unlikely scenario on this bolt.