I did that to an 83 about the same time as this video and although I didn't keep the bike, it's still running and the guy has ridden it all over the country without a hiccup.
I will say I have found those style intakes are fine as long as your not riding in temperatures below 38F. The ones that have a square center are junk. Finally had a friend make me a set out of Aircraft aluminum and made sure that it was all tubular and finely polished inside and out no burrs or flat spots =no puddling or icing, at least down to 32F in my experience. Yea I know most people don’t ride when it’s Cold😂 I also have a complete rebuilt stock set for my bike setting on a shelf when I’m ready to do a full restoration. Best of luck! Ride Red!
I probably wont be riding in that, but you never know! I've seen the square center ones you mentioned and always thought they looked awful as well as incredibly inefficient, that's why I bought this one! Thanks for watching!
Great precise work. I finally got my 79 GL1000 carbs working properly but was thinking of doing what you did before I was successful. Very entertaining & informative. Thanks
I think the same guy makes a kit for the 1200. This one is the best design I found and the craftsmanship of the manifold is superb. Some people complain about "icing" with many single carb conversions for the Goldwing but look at the design of them! Big square tube with tubes welded to the sides is the most common one, talk about an inefficient pathway! Directly from the bottom of the carb it is on its way to cylinder with this design. I obviously have no road time with it yet but it ran well in the garage.
I wouldn't mind having OEMs but the previous owner ripped them apart and tossed them in a bucket with lots of parts missing or damaged. This made it much cheaper and easier to convert to single than to rebuild the old ones. I also didn't make the mistake of buying a crappy manifold, this one is great. Not a single issue thus far with this conversion.
Thank you for the video as I want to do this to my 83 GL-1100. Can you please let me know where you got the carb and the manifold? I will be doing this in January or February in northern Illinois. Yes, I have a heated garage. Thanks for the video and it was well done.
Good work man, have you ride it yet? I bought that same kit, unsuccessful results. Tried all the tricks to make it work. Electric heater in carb to air cleaner spacer from a ford, capillary tube from header to spacer also, panel to direct radiator heat onto manifold. 100 + outdoor temps I was able to get poor performance, unrideable. Rev motor, frost manifold. 30 to 40 percent humidity here in socal. Small venture in carb to large tube runners pressure drop weather effect. I used vw 2bbl manifold with small Weber 2bbl and handrail tubing to make runners to stock intake elbows. Heat transfer from intake elbows, electric Weber 2bbl heated spacer between carb and manifold, smaller intake tubing. It now works, rode it 150 miles in two week ends. 1100 rpm idle, if I richen up the idle mix a tiny bit to then drop idle rpm. 1976 gl1000 runs strong pulls hard when I hit it all the rest of the bike is stock. My 1981 gl1100 I put dual weber's 40idf 1 on each side, sport bike performance from a 700 lb goldwing. I don't know how to email you on youtub .
No, haven't rode it yet. Doing head bearings and painting triple trees. Then wiring, then brakes, then tires, then I can try riding but it will probably be mid winter here by that point. Then paint. Got a lot of work to go. I didn't have any problems with the kit I bought aside from taking forever to get to me from Lithuania. That and my own stupidity not realizing I had 2 plug wires switched. After that it ran beautifully. I can see from other designs of single carb manifolds why they're having issues. Too much volume and space for it to ice up, this goes pretty much straight to the 4 tubes, no 90 degree turns, no big section of square tube to travel through. Email me any time at dustydingusyt@gmail.com
Find the Goldwing FB groups, join them, and ask there. I don't have any experience with those, but several guys in those groups do for sure. Wish I could help more!
Nice job! You probably already know, but most VW Bug fires are caused by that fuel inlet. It's a press fit and can work it's way out of the carb body. You can pull it out, tap the hole & replace it with a screw-in fitting. Also, that idle cutoff valve isn't really needed for your bike. It opens when you turn the key on to start the bike closes when you stop the engine to prevent run-on (preignition) which was a big problem in VW engines when the emission laws meant leaner mixture settings & retarded ignition timing. If it fails your bike will stall and refuse to restart. You can take it out, snip the little end off with some pliers, and put it back in. Or carry a spare.
How did you wire it? You used one ground wire for both the electric choke and the idle cutoff? Or are both wires supposed to have their own ground? Also, how did you test with a multimeter? Would like to verify my contact points before trying to fire my 79' up for the first time. Thanks for the vid, Pretty helpful
Yes, one ground wire for both, I used a ring terminal on one of the carb mount studs. With the multimeter I checked for continuity from one end of the connection to the other, you can also check for DC voltage, should be 12v DC. Thanks for watching and commenting, I hope this helps!
Love your videos man. Im about to try it myself. Do you have any tips for tubing this type of carb for the bike? You mentioned some info you found on the net. Can you share a reference? Thanks!
Man, sorry it has taken me so long to respond! This one slipped by me... Anyway, here's the guide that I followed: www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm Only difference is to go higher on idle, 1050-1150 Thanks for watching and commenting!
I am planning the same carb conversion on a GL1000. But my kit didnt come with any installation instructions, wiring diagrams, or air cleaner. Can you share where you found your wiring and carb adjustment instructions?
Certainly! But I will have to get to my computer here in about 2hrs. If you send me an email, I can just respond with the full set of instructions much easier. dustydingusyt@gmail.com
@@DustyDingus Hey Dusty! Thank you so much for this video! I'm doing the conversion on my GL now and cannot for the life of me get this thing adjusted right. Could you please send me the link as well? Also, if you could send me the jetting sizes you used too that'd be great! Lastly, did you have any issue getting the throttle to work with the carb spun that way? I have it hooked up now with the throttle lever on the left side. It puts kinda a sharp bend in the cable that way but I can't seem to get enough slack in the cable the other way around. My main problem for now though is getting it to idle once it comes off choke. With the choke on, it'll start and idle great. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
Thank you brother. Can I ask why people do this conversion I recently bought a 1980 goldwing 1100. And I was just kinda curious of the reason behind it. I xant seem to find any bike mechanics that want to touch it. But luckily found a vw bug mechanic that said he would do my rebuild for a decent price.
Simplicity. 1 carb is easier to maintain than 4. The 34 PICT 3 is also a very easy carb to rebuild and maintain in itself. For me, cost and ease were the driving factors in order of importance. My OEM carbs were given to me tossed in a bucket with many many missing parts, and with randakk's rebuild kits being unavailable and more expensive than the whole conversion kit, there wasn't much left to consider. The only real difference from that guide I linked to is to go with a higher idle, 1050-1150 RPM. I'm very happy with my single carb setup, roughly 2300 miles on it so far including long highway trips and many trips up the mountains. Runs and rides awesome.
Cool thanks for the info brother. Just a little curious.. looks like I need to get it cleaned up and put back on.. thanks for all your help brother.. safe riding!
Be careful with that torque wrench adaptor, they are only to be used at 90 degree angles unless you use a mathematical formula to compensate. The way you used it increased the delivered torque. You could strip a thread very easily.
Intake is made in Lithuania and bought on eBay, no part number but it can be found easy on eBay. The carb is a 34 PICT 3, and not a name brand one as far as I know. EMPI makes nice ones from what I hear
Hi nice videos, can you please tell the part number or size (diameter and height) of the air filter element, I’m doing the same mods and don’t want to buy the wrong parts,thanks.
Gah I cant find the packaging I dont know that I saved it. But I will try my hardest to remember to measure it for you next time the shelter is off. Thank you for subscribing and sorry it took me so long to respond!
I bought the whole kit from this seller based in Lithuania www.ebay.com/usr/logi4334 He's got the best designed and built single carb conversion manifolds available I think. I selected the whole kit; manifold, air filter/housing, and carburetor. The carburetor is a 34 PICT-3. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Got a 82gl1100 and doing the exact same thing but mine will only stay running while in high RPM’s. Where did you find the carb adjustment instructions. Mine come with NO instructions what-so-ever.
Hi! I finally got around to watching this again once I learned a little more about my naked 1100 project with a single carb and your series is super helpful. Now I can understand more lol! Do you have a good website for adjusting your single carb setup? I've got a smaller PICT28 in mine and have been told it's too small to run well in this engine (PO build). Thinking about upgrading to a bigger carb like you did but never installed a carb before let alone adjusted it from out of the box to run.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad my videos have been helpful! The guide that I followed is here: www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm Keep in mind, this guide is geared towards VW but the only real difference is to use a little bit higher idle setting. 1050-1150 RPM Hope this helps!
Hi Dusty, very good video. Will you be able to send me the link to buy the carburetor conversion kit and air filter? thank you and appreciate it so much!
He doesn't have the same exact one listed right now but here's a similar one from the same guy www.ebay.com/itm/174898872244?hash=item28b8c8ffb4:g:0RUAAOSwfqRe8aXT If the link doesn't work, email me dustydingusyt@gmail.com
Hey, so young guy question. I’m currently working on a 76 GL1000 and am having a similar problem to the backfiring you had before you switched the spark plugs. Is there a way you found to test or make sure you have the spark plug in the right cylinder. Thanks for the awesome video!
I just had to Google around for the diagrams and as soon as I looked it was staring me in the face 🤦 The GL1100 uses electronic ignition though, and the GL1000 used points. So I think there's a greater chance for timing to be off on the 1000 vs 1100.
So if you haven't already, search for GL1000 ignition timing. That will lead you down the right path, hopefully to NGWClub.com where there's a good guide. You'll want to set the points gap and then the timing. Feel free to email me dustydingusyt@gmail.com
That's a much debated question in the Goldwing community. The general consensus seems to be decrease, but I have yet to find an instance where someone put their bike on a dyno to find out for sure.
@@DustyDingus It is something I have thought about, the conversion seems fairly straight forward, but my feeling is the bike is already under powered for its "girth".
Definitely not lol dry empty fuel system with a mechanical pump and I'm still using that starter. Maybe should've prefilled the bowl in hindsight but no, petcock was open 🤣
Great! I put over 2500 miles on it this past season. A few long highway trips and many many rides into the mountains up to around 10k ft. Not a single issue
Did you bump up the jets or roll with the stock ones? About to fit my 1100 with a similar setup, but I basically have straight pipes. I have one of the manifolds with the rectangular center point, hoping that doesn't bite me. Couldn't wait for the lithuanian one to come in.
I haven't rode the bike yet, so I don't really know how it runs under load etc. I may change jets later on if necessary. There was a guy on FB who did the same mod and posted when he found what he considered perfect as far as jetting is concerned. I will see if I can find that post. But I think with straight pipes the possibility of needing to rejet would greatly increase, the straight pipes will lean it out. I haven't heard anything good about those square tube deals. Pooling and icing being the biggest complaints. If it is warm enough outside when riding, icing shouldn't be as much of an issue. The lithuanian one was worth the wait IMO, it is very well done. Thanks for watching!
@@DustyDingus thanks, I popped in the larger set of jets since most of these kits I see are on fairly stock bikes. Rather be rich than lean. I'll order that manifold if this one is a mess. The x-pipe design on paper just makes much more sense either way IMO. Good luck getting your ride on the road!
Man it feels like I am SO close.... Brakes, specifically drilling and resurfacing the rotors is giving me hell right now. But otherwise I have all the parts I need. Just need more time and bummed it's already April lol I agree, the X pipes just make more sense! I did wait like a month and a half or so though, being in the thick of the first round of the Rona at the time.
I wish I could weld that good! Lol no I ordered it off of eBay, came from a guy in Lithuania. I definitely recommend his manifolds over others I have seen, off of workmanship and design.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. I didn't leave out the throttle setup unintentionally, and this is explained at 15:15. Thinking back I'm not sure if I even had the throttle cable and clamp yet, I know I got the bike with the throttle pull cable missing. I've been asked about this before and I believe I have pictures and info to help you. Shoot me an email dustydingusyt@gmail.com
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Video is hide some information like 12 volt how to connect
Connection is incredibly simple. Both spade connectors from carburetor (choke and shut-off solenoid) get connected to positive accessory terminal at the fuse box. I connected ground (negative) with an additional wire that ends in a terminal ring that fits over the carburetor mounting stud. Hope this helps
Honda* and mine runs great! Over 7k trouble free miles in all ranges of weather up to 14k feet without missing a beat. Lazy had nothing to do with it, don't be so stupid. Millions of 4 cylinder boxer engines ran their whole lives on one carb, there is such a thing as over engineering and I have no regrets going with this setup.
I dont understand why people think Honda Engineers didnt know what they were doing hence you replace the carb by car VW one.Dont see any reason.From what I read its more trouble then its worth.Why not sort out the OEM carbs and be done with it.They are riders putting 200k plus miles on stock wings without issues
Original carbs were completely trashed by previous owners and rebuilding or replacing would have costed me TRIPPLE what the single carb did. Simple right? I'm missing so many parts of the OEM setup it never made sense to try rebuilding them. Furthermore, there is such a thing as over-engineering. You read wrong too because it was hardly any trouble and 100% worth it. I've put over 3500 trouble free miles on this setup. The carb kits, which were only a fraction of what the OEM needed, were not available at the time either. The new carb and manifold were available at less cost than 4 kits! Hope this clears up some of your confusion
Only kits worth buying are Randaaks, and they were unavailable. I don't have any of the OEM airbox either. Plus this way there's only 1 carb to worry about maintenance. No regrets here, there were and still are no benefits to going back to OEM.
If I didn't care about being mean spirited, I would say, " man, you need your head examined" ! Do you really think that bike not starting right away is 'okay' ?" Instead if continual cranking, why NOT STOP ?!! And look for the problem ? There most certainly IS ONE, when you crank, & crank, & crank, & it doesn't start ! Drive me nuts ! Go over stuff, will you ? Find the problem, & correct it, so the damn thing will start reasonably ! Thank you !
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I did that to an 83 about the same time as this video and although I didn't keep the bike, it's still running and the guy has ridden it all over the country without a hiccup.
Where did you order the single carb conversion kit ?
I will say I have found those style intakes are fine as long as your not riding in temperatures below 38F. The ones that have a square center are junk.
Finally had a friend make me a set out of Aircraft aluminum and made sure that it was all tubular and finely polished inside and out no burrs or flat spots =no puddling or icing, at least down to 32F in my experience.
Yea I know most people don’t ride when it’s Cold😂
I also have a complete rebuilt stock set for my bike setting on a shelf when I’m ready to do a full restoration.
Best of luck!
Ride Red!
I probably wont be riding in that, but you never know! I've seen the square center ones you mentioned and always thought they looked awful as well as incredibly inefficient, that's why I bought this one!
Thanks for watching!
Great precise work. I finally got my 79 GL1000 carbs working properly but was thinking of doing what you did before I was successful. Very entertaining & informative. Thanks
Thank you for watching and for the kind compliment!
That looks really neat on there polished nicely aswell those intakes i would like the same set up on my 1200.
I think the same guy makes a kit for the 1200. This one is the best design I found and the craftsmanship of the manifold is superb. Some people complain about "icing" with many single carb conversions for the Goldwing but look at the design of them! Big square tube with tubes welded to the sides is the most common one, talk about an inefficient pathway! Directly from the bottom of the carb it is on its way to cylinder with this design. I obviously have no road time with it yet but it ran well in the garage.
I just bought the same setup for my 1982 GL1100.
I think it is the best kit available honestly. You made a good choice! Thanks for watching and commenting!
Mine keeps bogging down when I accelerate but not every time, DAMGEROUS!!!
I admire the conversion work, looks great, but from all comments I reckon I'll stick to my OEMs and balancing them once in a blue moon.
I wouldn't mind having OEMs but the previous owner ripped them apart and tossed them in a bucket with lots of parts missing or damaged. This made it much cheaper and easier to convert to single than to rebuild the old ones.
I also didn't make the mistake of buying a crappy manifold, this one is great. Not a single issue thus far with this conversion.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
How many turns did you do for the volume and bypass? Been messing with mine still lags like a video game when i take it on a spin. Thanks
Thank you for the video as I want to do this to my 83 GL-1100. Can you please let me know where you got the carb and the manifold? I will be doing this in January or February in northern Illinois. Yes, I have a heated garage.
Thanks for the video and it was well done.
Hey man awesome video! May i ask what you ended up doing with the PCV hoses?
Good work man, have you ride it yet? I bought that same kit, unsuccessful results. Tried all the tricks to make it work. Electric heater in carb to air cleaner spacer from a ford, capillary tube from header to spacer also, panel to direct radiator heat onto manifold. 100 + outdoor temps I was able to get poor performance, unrideable. Rev motor, frost manifold. 30 to 40 percent humidity here in socal. Small venture in carb to large tube runners pressure drop weather effect. I used vw 2bbl manifold with small Weber 2bbl and handrail tubing to make runners to stock intake elbows. Heat transfer from intake elbows, electric Weber 2bbl heated spacer between carb and manifold, smaller intake tubing. It now works, rode it 150 miles in two week ends. 1100 rpm idle, if I richen up the idle mix a tiny bit to then drop idle rpm. 1976 gl1000 runs strong pulls hard when I hit it all the rest of the bike is stock. My 1981 gl1100 I put dual weber's 40idf 1 on each side, sport bike performance from a 700 lb goldwing. I don't know how to email you on youtub .
No, haven't rode it yet. Doing head bearings and painting triple trees. Then wiring, then brakes, then tires, then I can try riding but it will probably be mid winter here by that point. Then paint. Got a lot of work to go.
I didn't have any problems with the kit I bought aside from taking forever to get to me from Lithuania. That and my own stupidity not realizing I had 2 plug wires switched. After that it ran beautifully. I can see from other designs of single carb manifolds why they're having issues. Too much volume and space for it to ice up, this goes pretty much straight to the 4 tubes, no 90 degree turns, no big section of square tube to travel through.
Email me any time at dustydingusyt@gmail.com
Any hints on the linkage for the twin idf40's?
Find the Goldwing FB groups, join them, and ask there. I don't have any experience with those, but several guys in those groups do for sure.
Wish I could help more!
Nice job dusty...
Thank you!
Nice job! You probably already know, but most VW Bug fires are caused by that fuel inlet. It's a press fit and can work it's way out of the carb body. You can pull it out, tap the hole & replace it with a screw-in fitting. Also, that idle cutoff valve isn't really needed for your bike. It opens when you turn the key on to start the bike closes when you stop the engine to prevent run-on (preignition) which was a big problem in VW engines when the emission laws meant leaner mixture settings & retarded ignition timing. If it fails your bike will stall and refuse to restart. You can take it out, snip the little end off with some pliers, and put it back in. Or carry a spare.
I am currently doing this same thing
Could you please leave links for the manifold as well as the carburetor and air filter plus and other product that you used?
I want one of those batteries!
Where did you get the intake?
hallo wo bekomme ich diesen ansaugkrümmer ( spinne ) weg?
Good video, but kinda glossed over the wiring element of the job, which in my experience is the part most DIY fitters would struggle with.
Does the choke and fuel cut off solenoid thing get the same 12 volts?
Yes, you'll need a 12 VDC positive lead to each
How did you wire it? You used one ground wire for both the electric choke and the idle cutoff? Or are both wires supposed to have their own ground? Also, how did you test with a multimeter? Would like to verify my contact points before trying to fire my 79' up for the first time. Thanks for the vid, Pretty helpful
Yes, one ground wire for both, I used a ring terminal on one of the carb mount studs. With the multimeter I checked for continuity from one end of the connection to the other, you can also check for DC voltage, should be 12v DC.
Thanks for watching and commenting, I hope this helps!
Müssen noch andere Düsen in den Solex Vergaser, oder läuft der GL1100 Motor schon so ganz gut mit dem Solex Vergaser?
Love your videos man. Im about to try it myself. Do you have any tips for tubing this type of carb for the bike? You mentioned some info you found on the net. Can you share a reference?
Thanks!
Man, sorry it has taken me so long to respond! This one slipped by me... Anyway, here's the guide that I followed:
www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm
Only difference is to go higher on idle, 1050-1150
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Nice
I am planning the same carb conversion on a GL1000. But my kit didnt come with any installation instructions, wiring diagrams, or air cleaner. Can you share where you found your wiring and carb adjustment instructions?
Certainly! But I will have to get to my computer here in about 2hrs. If you send me an email, I can just respond with the full set of instructions much easier.
dustydingusyt@gmail.com
@@DustyDingus Hey Dusty! Thank you so much for this video! I'm doing the conversion on my GL now and cannot for the life of me get this thing adjusted right. Could you please send me the link as well? Also, if you could send me the jetting sizes you used too that'd be great! Lastly, did you have any issue getting the throttle to work with the carb spun that way? I have it hooked up now with the throttle lever on the left side. It puts kinda a sharp bend in the cable that way but I can't seem to get enough slack in the cable the other way around. My main problem for now though is getting it to idle once it comes off choke. With the choke on, it'll start and idle great. Any help would be much appreciated. Thank you!
Where did you fine the info, on the adjustments?
Right here:
www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm
Thanks for watching!
Thank you brother. Can I ask why people do this conversion I recently bought a 1980 goldwing 1100. And I was just kinda curious of the reason behind it. I xant seem to find any bike mechanics that want to touch it. But luckily found a vw bug mechanic that said he would do my rebuild for a decent price.
Simplicity. 1 carb is easier to maintain than 4. The 34 PICT 3 is also a very easy carb to rebuild and maintain in itself.
For me, cost and ease were the driving factors in order of importance. My OEM carbs were given to me tossed in a bucket with many many missing parts, and with randakk's rebuild kits being unavailable and more expensive than the whole conversion kit, there wasn't much left to consider.
The only real difference from that guide I linked to is to go with a higher idle, 1050-1150 RPM.
I'm very happy with my single carb setup, roughly 2300 miles on it so far including long highway trips and many trips up the mountains. Runs and rides awesome.
Cool thanks for the info brother. Just a little curious.. looks like I need to get it cleaned up and put back on.. thanks for all your help brother.. safe riding!
Even sounds like a vw
What advantages of running one carb vs 4 ?
Not having to rebuild and maintain 4 carbs is the biggest one! Ended up way cheaper for me also
And it runs great!
I have a Honda Valkyrie with six carbs and was wondering if I could do that
Can you tell me what filter and housing you used? I was able to get mine fully installed and working due to your video. Thank you!!!!
Thank you for watching!
Let me see if I can find a link to it or one similar, it was sent to me as part of the kit. I may not have kept the packaging.
I am quite positive this is the one:
www.jbugs.com/product/9012.html
Hit subscribe so you don't miss more videos of the Goldwing project!
Be careful with that torque wrench adaptor, they are only to be used at 90 degree angles unless you use a mathematical formula to compensate. The way you used it increased the delivered torque. You could strip a thread very easily.
Yeah my memory was 90° off! 😕 Kept resetting it straight out... Thanks for the reminder, and for watching and commenting as well!
WHERE DID YOU ORDER YOU'RE SINGLE CARB CONVERSION KIT ?
eBay, seller in Lithuania April 2020. The pandemic made shipping difficult. Last I looked he still had listings.
Great videos,did you have to turn the carb the other way in order to hook up the Throttle cable?
Thanks! The throttle goes on the right side of the bike
@@DustyDingus I just bought that carb and Manifold setup, your Video is helpful thanks.
On the carb and intake
Intake is made in Lithuania and bought on eBay, no part number but it can be found easy on eBay.
The carb is a 34 PICT 3, and not a name brand one as far as I know. EMPI makes nice ones from what I hear
Hi nice videos, can you please tell the part number or size (diameter and height) of the air filter element, I’m doing the same mods and don’t want to buy the wrong parts,thanks.
Gah I cant find the packaging I dont know that I saved it. But I will try my hardest to remember to measure it for you next time the shelter is off.
Thank you for subscribing and sorry it took me so long to respond!
@@DustyDingus I purchased one and luckily it fit perfectly,thanks for the reply.
Could you tell me where to get the parts to do this and what vw carb to use please?
I bought the whole kit from this seller based in Lithuania
www.ebay.com/usr/logi4334
He's got the best designed and built single carb conversion manifolds available I think.
I selected the whole kit; manifold, air filter/housing, and carburetor. The carburetor is a 34 PICT-3.
Thanks for watching and commenting!
Got a 82gl1100 and doing the exact same thing but mine will only stay running while in high RPM’s. Where did you find the carb adjustment instructions. Mine come with NO instructions what-so-ever.
Mine didn't have any instructions included but I found several guides online by searching "34 pict 3 tuning"
Hey, been thinking about putting one of these motors in a vw, do you know what direction the motor turns?
I believe clockwise if you're looking at the front of the bike/engine. Hope this helps!
did you do it ?
Must have been frogged at the coil as it is not easy to do at the plugs.
Hi! I finally got around to watching this again once I learned a little more about my naked 1100 project with a single carb and your series is super helpful. Now I can understand more lol! Do you have a good website for adjusting your single carb setup? I've got a smaller PICT28 in mine and have been told it's too small to run well in this engine (PO build). Thinking about upgrading to a bigger carb like you did but never installed a carb before let alone adjusted it from out of the box to run.
Thanks for watching and I'm glad my videos have been helpful!
The guide that I followed is here:
www.angelfire.com/tx2/ntnb/Carb_Instructions.htm
Keep in mind, this guide is geared towards VW but the only real difference is to use a little bit higher idle setting. 1050-1150 RPM
Hope this helps!
@@DustyDingus thanks!
How's yours run? There seem to be a lot of single carb haters out there in Goldwing world.
Runs awesome! I've put about 2500 miles on it including highway and lots of mountains.
@@DustyDingus that's awesome man. I was wondering about altitude changes and the jets. I'm at sea level now but don't plan to be forever.
Are you using the original fuel pump for this setup?
did the single carb conversion effect your gas mileage?
I get 35-40 last time I did the math. Not sure off the top of my head how that compares to stock.
Hi Dusty, very good video. Will you be able to send me the link to buy the carburetor conversion kit and air filter? thank you and appreciate it so much!
He doesn't have the same exact one listed right now but here's a similar one from the same guy
www.ebay.com/itm/174898872244?hash=item28b8c8ffb4:g:0RUAAOSwfqRe8aXT
If the link doesn't work, email me dustydingusyt@gmail.com
@@DustyDingus thank you Dusty appreciate it...
Hey, so young guy question. I’m currently working on a 76 GL1000 and am having a similar problem to the backfiring you had before you switched the spark plugs. Is there a way you found to test or make sure you have the spark plug in the right cylinder. Thanks for the awesome video!
I just had to Google around for the diagrams and as soon as I looked it was staring me in the face 🤦
The GL1100 uses electronic ignition though, and the GL1000 used points. So I think there's a greater chance for timing to be off on the 1000 vs 1100.
So if you haven't already, search for GL1000 ignition timing. That will lead you down the right path, hopefully to NGWClub.com where there's a good guide. You'll want to set the points gap and then the timing.
Feel free to email me
dustydingusyt@gmail.com
Nice work. Does the conversion decrease or increase the engine HP ??
That's a much debated question in the Goldwing community. The general consensus seems to be decrease, but I have yet to find an instance where someone put their bike on a dyno to find out for sure.
@@DustyDingus It is something I have thought about, the conversion seems fairly straight forward, but my feeling is the bike is already under powered for its "girth".
@@DustyDingus To be honest I can't see much if any difference from going to 4 carbs to 1. The only problem I have is getting a consistent idle.
Going to put the Same setup.on my 85 1200
is that true? I just watched a guy frying the Starter trying to start a bike with the petcock closed?
Definitely not lol dry empty fuel system with a mechanical pump and I'm still using that starter. Maybe should've prefilled the bowl in hindsight but no, petcock was open 🤣
Got a link to that air filter bud
I don't, unfortunately :( it was part of the kit I got, and the listing is no longer existent.
How is the single carb conversion working in the long run? I have a GL1100 and I'm seriously considering doing this.
Great! I put over 2500 miles on it this past season. A few long highway trips and many many rides into the mountains up to around 10k ft. Not a single issue
@@DustyDingus I'm ordering one Friday. I'm tired of fooling with the carb rack !
Did you had the intake manifull Made?
Ordered it on eBay but the same guy also sells on etsy
What's your throttle cable
Currently don't have one installed
You are killing your starter. Only crank for short periods, geez.
Did you bump up the jets or roll with the stock ones? About to fit my 1100 with a similar setup, but I basically have straight pipes. I have one of the manifolds with the rectangular center point, hoping that doesn't bite me. Couldn't wait for the lithuanian one to come in.
I haven't rode the bike yet, so I don't really know how it runs under load etc. I may change jets later on if necessary.
There was a guy on FB who did the same mod and posted when he found what he considered perfect as far as jetting is concerned. I will see if I can find that post.
But I think with straight pipes the possibility of needing to rejet would greatly increase, the straight pipes will lean it out.
I haven't heard anything good about those square tube deals. Pooling and icing being the biggest complaints. If it is warm enough outside when riding, icing shouldn't be as much of an issue. The lithuanian one was worth the wait IMO, it is very well done.
Thanks for watching!
@@DustyDingus thanks, I popped in the larger set of jets since most of these kits I see are on fairly stock bikes. Rather be rich than lean. I'll order that manifold if this one is a mess. The x-pipe design on paper just makes much more sense either way IMO. Good luck getting your ride on the road!
Man it feels like I am SO close.... Brakes, specifically drilling and resurfacing the rotors is giving me hell right now. But otherwise I have all the parts I need. Just need more time and bummed it's already April lol
I agree, the X pipes just make more sense! I did wait like a month and a half or so though, being in the thick of the first round of the Rona at the time.
@@DustyDingus eh who needs to stop anyways!
Whose manifold did you use?
From logi4334 on ebay. Took forever for it to get here from Lithuania
Which terminal did you use for switched power?
The accessory terminals on the right hand side of the fuse box
Did you make the intake
I wish I could weld that good! Lol no I ordered it off of eBay, came from a guy in Lithuania. I definitely recommend his manifolds over others I have seen, off of workmanship and design.
@@DustyDingus ok thanks me and my dad we’re going to weld one and was wondering if we could get a good pic of it
It is like this one, from same seller. www.ebay.com/itm/174568263870
nice video,
i want to convert mine 85 gl1200, where did you find the carburetor, or you bought everything together as a kit
Hi, if you find the answer to youre question, Let me nkow. I like to do the dame ti mi bike
I bought everything in a kit from eBay, let me see if I can find the seller and I'll give you a link. Pretty sure he has a setup for the GL1200 also
This is the guy
ebay.com/usr/logi4334
@@alexolivera7490 i found it cheap, if you want i can sell you my kit, ir comes complete with manifolds and carb
I really really wished you’d shown the throttle setup and the way you ran it this video was great but you miss one very important part
I'm glad you enjoyed the video and found it helpful. I didn't leave out the throttle setup unintentionally, and this is explained at 15:15. Thinking back I'm not sure if I even had the throttle cable and clamp yet, I know I got the bike with the throttle pull cable missing. I've been asked about this before and I believe I have pictures and info to help you. Shoot me an email dustydingusyt@gmail.com
Video is hide some information like 12 volt how to connect
Connection is incredibly simple. Both spade connectors from carburetor (choke and shut-off solenoid) get connected to positive accessory terminal at the fuse box. I connected ground (negative) with an additional wire that ends in a terminal ring that fits over the carburetor mounting stud.
Hope this helps
How about part numbers
Thank you ya I got a 1987 goldwing trike with carberator problems did you get yours going and how did the single carberator do
It's great! Over 4000 trouble free miles in all sorts of conditions
your going to burn out the starter
I was keeping an eye on it. When things started to get even a bit warm I stopped.
It's still working great so far.
Thanks for watching!
How?? I'm thinking of doing this.
Soak the rubber in wd40
Not a good idea
they never run right.. lots in the scrap yards.. with the vw single carb.. don't be so lazy the engineers at Hamatsu earned their degrees ,, did you?
Honda* and mine runs great! Over 7k trouble free miles in all ranges of weather up to 14k feet without missing a beat. Lazy had nothing to do with it, don't be so stupid. Millions of 4 cylinder boxer engines ran their whole lives on one carb, there is such a thing as over engineering and I have no regrets going with this setup.
I dont understand why people think Honda Engineers didnt know what they were doing hence you replace the carb by car VW one.Dont see any reason.From what I read its more trouble then its worth.Why not sort out the OEM carbs and be done with it.They are riders putting 200k plus miles on stock wings without issues
Original carbs were completely trashed by previous owners and rebuilding or replacing would have costed me TRIPPLE what the single carb did. Simple right?
I'm missing so many parts of the OEM setup it never made sense to try rebuilding them.
Furthermore, there is such a thing as over-engineering. You read wrong too because it was hardly any trouble and 100% worth it. I've put over 3500 trouble free miles on this setup.
The carb kits, which were only a fraction of what the OEM needed, were not available at the time either. The new carb and manifold were available at less cost than 4 kits!
Hope this clears up some of your confusion
@@DustyDingus Glad it worked out for you.Ton of OEM carbs on ebay plus kits.
Only kits worth buying are Randaaks, and they were unavailable. I don't have any of the OEM airbox either.
Plus this way there's only 1 carb to worry about maintenance.
No regrets here, there were and still are no benefits to going back to OEM.
What the barefoot crap is going on here?
If I didn't care about being mean spirited, I would say, " man, you need your head examined" ! Do you really think that bike not starting right away is 'okay' ?" Instead if continual cranking, why NOT STOP ?!! And look for the problem ? There most certainly IS ONE, when you crank, & crank, & crank, & it doesn't start ! Drive me nuts ! Go over stuff, will you ? Find the problem, & correct it, so the damn thing will start reasonably ! Thank you !
Just noticed how old this video is... I'm an old man... What's your excuse ?