@@magneticintrusion I have found that nothing beats the Bocar Solex from Mexico or a real West German Solex. The chinese copies are all over the place as far as quality.
@@AGAVE26 That's the one issue I have with mine. The idle is a little funky but otherwise it runs great. It hasn't been enough of an issue to worry about.
@@vernonricker9910 Did your replacement carb come with any other jets? The one I bought did, although I didn't have to change them. But, you may need to put one size smaller. Also, double check your air/fuel screw, as it may be too rich there also...
Only thing man after sitting here and soaking in every last detail of how to make the switch and watching you do it it kind of makes us feel like we're sitting right there with you as you done it and then you fired it up and didn't run it but a couple of minutes wish you could have took it out on the street showed us how it done when you got through with it,would have just made for a better video is all. Good work 🏍️
This is a very good video but as I found out today there are two different types of this manifold. They look the same but are designed to mount 180 degrees differently. The one I have the cable comes from the rear right-hand side and you do not have to cut the cable to make it work.
Your mine Bob Ross but for motorcycles amazing. I’m planning on doing this with a little supercharger I found. I’m assuming I’ll need bigger jets though 😅
Hey there Dave. The cluster is a generic after market unit that sells on ebay. I have the link for that in the description to see. It was a bit of a hassle to figure out the wiring, thanks to odd translations. But, after it is all sorted, it works and looks great compared to the stock gauges. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Awaiting an update video. I have started a '81 gl1100i project and did the 34 pict 3 conversion also. I am needing to find power to the carb and also how the vacuum hoses connect. Also probably going to need a new starter as I only get a ticking near the battery (possible relay bad? I have no clue as I am new to bikes)
Yeah man...It has been a while since I did the video. It was a really rough winter for me and I am getting back out in the garage next week. Until then, maybe I can help you get things hooked up proper. The power for the shutoff valve and choke on the carb needs to power up when you turn the key on. So, you need to take a test probe/light and find a wire that gets power when you turn the key on. I used a orange wire that supplied power to the front fairing running lights. The vacuum advance from the back of the engine connects to the top port on the throttle cable side of the carb. And the two crankcase tubes on the engine need to connect to the air cleaner. I used a tee connection from the two vent tubes to connect a single line to the bottom of my air cleaner. For the starting issue, I would check all connections of the battery cables, especially the ground, and make sure they are clean and tight. Next thing is to make sure battery is absolutely good. If true, the solenoid and relay needs to be tested. If both are good, that is when the starter needs to be addressed... If you need some help other than that, my email is miofvegas@gmail.com. Good luck!
@@magneticintrusion Hello, I,m just getting as much info before attempting this conversion. I already have the manifold/34 pict(chinese)carb. I see that you connect the vacuum advance from back of engine to the top port on throttle side. The blanked port at approx 5 OCLOCK from the top port one ? What and where does that go ?...do I just keep it blanked off ?
@@allylogan9818 Thanks for checking the video out. I hope it will help you get your project completed a little easier. The distributer is the only part I know of that needs vacuum to work proper. I simply plugged all other ports on the carb. Good luck!
Did the same to my 84 gl 1200 same carb..and it keeps fouling out the plugs..tried to adjust the air fuel screw.no.luck.it run good..just to much gas....any idea,s
Sorry that I just seen this. I would try rejetting with one size smaller. And then readjusting to the new jets. If you don't have them, they are easy to find on ebay...
Vernon Ricker There are different air/fuel mixtures, known as "circuits", on a carb. The idle air mixture is the ONLY one you can adjust with a screwdriver. That's the "idle circuit". The other circuits, known as midrange & main, can only be changed by installing different jets (or metering rods in certain carburetors). If you keep fouling plugs maybe your choke isn't fully closing. Or (if your carb has one) you have the wrong power valve installed.
I'm working on 82 goldwing for a customer he is considering changing to single carb conversion. His bike has air system on top of air Cleaner. Do you know if the single carb and air Cleaner will fit under the air system?
Hey there. With the carb and filter I have on the bike, I am not sure. I can say the filter fills the area between the frame sides. And is as high as the gas cap on the tank...Hope that help with your decision...
Thanks for noticing. www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-LCD-Digit-15000rpm-Motorcycle-Speedometer-Tachometer-Gauge-Odometer/372318206634?hash=item56afe4faaa:g:fdQAAOSwHy5elnU3 In my quest for budget parts, I found that unit. It was not a simple plug and play, as the wiring was a challenge, but doable. Once everything was connected and set up proper, it has been working great. And it looks so much better than the old units...
I used the smaller jets on mine. Excluding manufacturing differences and quality control of different suppliers, I think the biggest issues I see with idle on these carbs is getting that first adjustment on the idle stop screw correct. If that isn't almost perfect, all other adjustments are basically futile. And it messes with runabilities after idle. Some others totally disable the fuel cut off, but I don't. Also, valve adjustment, ignition timing and any vacuume leaks can mess with the idle too. This procedure gave me the best results: 1. Fast idle adjustment At idle with the engine warm the throttle butterfly should be almost completely closed. This is set by the fast idle screw which acts on the stepped cam. With choke fully open, adjust the screw so there's clearance of 0.003”, then turn it inwards a half turn. This sets the throttle opening. 2. Volume control screw initial adjustment Carefully screw this in until you can feel it seating. Do not over tighten as that will damage the carb body. Then back it out 2 ½ turns. This is the initial setting. Hook up the tachometer, replace the air filter and start the engine. 3. Idle speed initial adjustment Idle speed is set by adjusting the larger screw. Turning it in reduces the volume of fuel-air mixture flowing, turning it out increases the volume. Turn the screw slowly while monitoring engine speed. The target is around 850 rpm. 4. Volume control screw final adjustment Return to the small screw and turn this slowly to increase engine speed. (Usually outwards.) It should only need less than a full turn. Find the highest speed then turn the screw inwards so that the revs drop slightly. 5. Idle speed final adjustment Go back to the bypass screw and turn this to set the idle speed back to 850 rpm.
@@magneticintrusion Got it! I will try this again tomorrow after I switch to the smaller size jets and I will let you know the results, thank you again for all the help.
Is this process necessary if the bike ran good, but I swapped the cable out? I didn’t touch the idle screw. Thanks in advance, and nice simple video. 👌 I bought my bike this way, just trying to learn about it.
This is the guy that I got the manifold from. It is actually much less expensive than when I bought mine: www.ebay.com/itm/Gl1000-Gl1100-1200-single-solex-carb-carburetor-intake-manifold-goldwing/284128570428 And the guy that sold me the carb is no longer on ebay. But, if you do a search 34 - pict 3 carb there, you will see many to choose from. Good luck!
Price had nothing to do with it. Not many places in Vegas have very many parts in stock for 38 year old bikes. I was very impatient to get that carb mounted and didn't want to wait the 3 to 5 days for ordering. I have no issues using the rtv anyway. I am not sloppy with it, as to cause some of it getting sucked into the cylinders. And, the sealing surface is much larger than the o-ring, so there is less chance of failure. The only drawback to me, is the extra time it takes to clean up next time they have to come off.
Magnetic Intrusion , well, along the years I have found silicon inside the cylinders water jackets, oil strainers clogged, etc, etc, that’s why I am “sensitive” about the use of silicon or derivatives, but hey!, it’s not my bike and you are not sloppy, my opinion?, I will wait 3 to 5 days for the right part
@@magneticintrusion Price? Planning? or lack thereof. The damn part is 4 bucks. and available from Amazon in less than 3 days. 20 bucks and no gel ball leaks. Personally, ANYONE that uses that junk is a hack. Only wish I could un-see it. Immediately stopped watching cause I do not like non professionals not using brain cell power and being lazy. That junk makes a mess of anything after the fact and takes extra unnecessary time to scrape and clean up when it is absolutely 100% not required.
@@anonimous2451, ...he could've gone to any ACE Hardware or auto parts store for O-rings. Ethanol and vacuum will eventually have him redoing those elbows, more sooner than later.
@@anonimous2451 I thought the same. Not a fan of that goop he used. Not for intake work anyway. O rings come in a myriad of sizes if NOS cannot be found quickly. Silicone will always be a bad idea near fuel.
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. www.ebay.com/itm/New-34-Pict-3-Carburetor-12V-Electric-Choke-For-VW-Beetle-113129031K/222062012224?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
@@AGAVE26 Thanks! The carb comes with a 'barrel' that has a screw in it and a hole that the cable is put through. The screw is then tightened to hold the cable in place. See the details starting at the 38:00 mark.
@@AGAVE26 the filter housing has one attachment on the bottom. So, I have the two hoses from the engine going to a tee, and the to the tube on the bottom of the housing.
No. Although that would be a convenient article. I knew what I wanted to do. I researched as much as possible. And I ended up selecting what I did because of price and compatibilities with each other. I have the links to all parts used in the description. Thanks for watching and the interaction!!!
Hi Dan , you should be able to grab that intake and carb for around 180 shipped , add a low profile air cleaner and you should be nearly 210ish complete .
@@mattmcdonough6831 What carb do you have? Just off the cuff here, i would for a vacuum leak, then if the vacuum advance may be on the wrong port, or further adjusting is needed.
Hey there. Thanks for watching. There was only one vacuum line on this bike. It is for the advance on the ignition. There is a update in the notes that explains I attached it to the wrong outlet on the carb in this video. That vacuum advance line connects the the upper port on the throttle side of carb. With the two blowby ports on the block, I connected each of those to a tee, then connected that single line to the connection on the bottom of the air cleaner housing. I will make a update video for all to see the details...
@@magneticintrusion, hey bigshot, maybe you should start with a intake manifold worth putting any carburetor on, because what you've got is junk... ...here, let me help you: th-cam.com/video/xAASeuN2ueA/w-d-xo.html
@@user-tz2xk4cz5z Ok Mr. KnowItAll. Your thoughts on this are lacking any content. Just like your page. How do you know that manifold works better than this one, or any other? Do you have a Goldwing you put it on? Show us a link to your bike with that manifold on it. Wait... Do you even ride? Again, it is your opinion. And your rudeness to convey that opinion is the issue with me. There is no reason to be an ass about things, just because your opinion is different from others. I intentionally bought the cheapest manifold and carburetor I could, for a reason. Most people that are riding a pre 90's motorcycles do that because they don't have, or don't want to spend money on something newer. These work just like the fancy ones, for much less cost. That is important to some people that don't have money to throw around right now. And the bike is running perfect, with more power and much better mileage, for less than $200. I suggest you turn your energies from negativity and do something creative, fun and/or informative to post on your TH-cam page. Perhaps a side by side test of bikes with different conversions, to compare the data vs the cost and efforts. Then, your opinion on this matter would count for something other than trolling...
Good work with the step by step presentation, nothing less than text book quality clip.
Great job on the install, and the camera work was awesome, thanks
Thanks for taking the time and efforts to say so!!!
A true talented man, thanks for sharing Buddy
Thank you very much!!!
I did a single conversion a couple of months ago and haven't looked back. So much simpler.
Yeah man...I want to do every one I see now!
@@magneticintrusion I have found that nothing beats the Bocar Solex from Mexico or a real West German Solex. The chinese copies are all over the place as far as quality.
@@randall1959 I have one from West Germany took it out and install a chinese can't get it to idle right should I rebuild the bocar?
@@AGAVE26 That's the one issue I have with mine. The idle is a little funky but otherwise it runs great. It hasn't been enough of an issue to worry about.
@@randall1959 probably is as good as they work thank you very much for your input.
Really good video! Makes me want to try
A great video, Thanks
I'm doing the Same .on my 85 gl1200...it sounds amazing...Thanks for posting.this Video
That's great! hope the video helped in some way. Thanks!
It runs to Rich..fouls out the plugs...
@@vernonricker9910 Did your replacement carb come with any other jets? The one I bought did, although I didn't have to change them. But, you may need to put one size smaller. Also, double check your air/fuel screw, as it may be too rich there also...
Very good video.Thanks for Sharing
Thanks for watching and the kind comment!
I like the Harley keyfob
Excellent video , very clear and informative 👍..I just wish I could find a carb .
Thanks dude. I appreciate the stand for common sense too. I added links to the parts I used in the details section. Good luck with your quest!
@@magneticintrusion thanks man
Got mine on ebay
Only thing man after sitting here and soaking in every last detail of how to make the switch and watching you do it it kind of makes us feel like we're sitting right there with you as you done it and then you fired it up and didn't run it but a couple of minutes wish you could have took it out on the street showed us how it done when you got through with it,would have just made for a better video is all. Good work 🏍️
This is a very good video but as I found out today there are two different types of this manifold. They look the same but are designed to mount 180 degrees differently. The one I have the cable comes from the rear right-hand side and you do not have to cut the cable to make it work.
Best I seen like the barrel
Thanks for saying so!
...then you haven't seen much.
Wondering if you have an updated link for the manifold one listed is missing would love to do this awesome and very informative video well done
Your mine Bob Ross but for motorcycles amazing. I’m planning on doing this with a little supercharger I found. I’m assuming I’ll need bigger jets though 😅
Hi, thanks for the video. What air filter are you using with it?
Any increase/decrease in performance?
Thanks!
Love this guy's voice
how did you connect the air lines back? also both terminals take 12V (positive), correct? Thanks!
@jammertime what instrument cluster are you using? Looks great and sounds great too! Can you put a link up to where you got gauges and intake please?
Hey there Dave. The cluster is a generic after market unit that sells on ebay. I have the link for that in the description to see. It was a bit of a hassle to figure out the wiring, thanks to odd translations. But, after it is all sorted, it works and looks great compared to the stock gauges. Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment!
Hi, the manifold is no longer sold on eBay. Can you point me to another compatible one?
What jets did ya use
Awaiting an update video. I have started a '81 gl1100i project and did the 34 pict 3 conversion also. I am needing to find power to the carb and also how the vacuum hoses connect. Also probably going to need a new starter as I only get a ticking near the battery (possible relay bad? I have no clue as I am new to bikes)
Yeah man...It has been a while since I did the video. It was a really rough winter for me and I am getting back out in the garage next week. Until then, maybe I can help you get things hooked up proper. The power for the shutoff valve and choke on the carb needs to power up when you turn the key on. So, you need to take a test probe/light and find a wire that gets power when you turn the key on. I used a orange wire that supplied power to the front fairing running lights.
The vacuum advance from the back of the engine connects to the top port on the throttle cable side of the carb.
And the two crankcase tubes on the engine need to connect to the air cleaner. I used a tee connection from the two vent tubes to connect a single line to the bottom of my air cleaner.
For the starting issue, I would check all connections of the battery cables, especially the ground, and make sure they are clean and tight. Next thing is to make sure battery is absolutely good. If true, the solenoid and relay needs to be tested. If both are good, that is when the starter needs to be addressed...
If you need some help other than that, my email is miofvegas@gmail.com. Good luck!
@@magneticintrusion Hello, I,m just getting as much info before attempting this
conversion. I already have the manifold/34 pict(chinese)carb. I see that you connect the vacuum advance from back of engine to the top port on throttle side.
The blanked port at approx 5 OCLOCK from the top port one ? What and where
does that go ?...do I just keep it blanked off ?
@@allylogan9818 Thanks for checking the video out. I hope it will help you get your project completed a little easier. The distributer is the only part I know of that needs vacuum to work proper. I simply plugged all other ports on the carb. Good luck!
@@magneticintrusion appreciate that and hello from bonnie Scotland.
Mine keeps bogging down when I accelerate but not every time, DAMGEROUS!!!
Do you know if this carb system can be installed on a 1979 Goldwing 1000?
The conversation is for the 1000 & the 1100 👍
Did the same to my 84 gl 1200 same carb..and it keeps fouling out the plugs..tried to adjust the air fuel screw.no.luck.it run good..just to much gas....any idea,s
Sorry that I just seen this. I would try rejetting with one size smaller. And then readjusting to the new jets. If you don't have them, they are easy to find on ebay...
Vernon Ricker There are different air/fuel mixtures, known as "circuits", on a carb. The idle air mixture is the ONLY one you can adjust with a screwdriver. That's the "idle circuit". The other circuits, known as midrange & main, can only be changed by installing different jets (or metering rods in certain carburetors). If you keep fouling plugs maybe your choke isn't fully closing. Or (if your carb has one) you have the wrong power valve installed.
Wouldnt it be easier to remove the manifolds from the carbs then remove them from bike?
I'm working on 82 goldwing for a customer he is considering changing to single carb conversion. His bike has air system on top of air Cleaner. Do you know if the single carb and air Cleaner will fit under the air system?
Hey there. With the carb and filter I have on the bike, I am not sure. I can say the filter fills the area between the frame sides. And is as high as the gas cap on the tank...Hope that help with your decision...
@@magneticintrusion ok thanks
What gauges are you using. Easy install?
Thanks for noticing.
www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-LCD-Digit-15000rpm-Motorcycle-Speedometer-Tachometer-Gauge-Odometer/372318206634?hash=item56afe4faaa:g:fdQAAOSwHy5elnU3
In my quest for budget parts, I found that unit. It was not a simple plug and play, as the wiring was a challenge, but doable. Once everything was connected and set up proper, it has been working great. And it looks so much better than the old units...
Did you use the big jets or the small ones?
Can't get mine to idle correctly thank you in advance for any info.
I used the smaller jets on mine. Excluding manufacturing differences and quality control of different suppliers, I think the biggest issues I see with idle on these carbs is getting that first adjustment on the idle stop screw correct. If that isn't almost perfect, all other adjustments are basically futile. And it messes with runabilities after idle. Some others totally disable the fuel cut off, but I don't. Also, valve adjustment, ignition timing and any vacuume leaks can mess with the idle too.
This procedure gave me the best results:
1. Fast idle adjustment
At idle with the engine warm the throttle butterfly should be almost completely closed. This is set by the fast idle screw which acts on the stepped cam.
With choke fully open, adjust the screw so there's clearance of 0.003”, then turn it inwards a half turn. This sets the throttle opening.
2. Volume control screw initial adjustment
Carefully screw this in until you can feel it seating. Do not over tighten as that will damage the carb body. Then back it out 2 ½ turns. This is the initial setting.
Hook up the tachometer, replace the air filter and start the engine.
3. Idle speed initial adjustment
Idle speed is set by adjusting the larger screw. Turning it in reduces the volume of fuel-air mixture flowing, turning it out increases the volume. Turn the screw slowly while monitoring engine speed. The target is around 850 rpm.
4. Volume control screw final adjustment
Return to the small screw and turn this slowly to increase engine speed. (Usually outwards.) It should only need less than a full turn.
Find the highest speed then turn the screw inwards so that the revs drop slightly.
5. Idle speed final adjustment
Go back to the bypass screw and turn this to set the idle speed back to 850 rpm.
@@magneticintrusion Got it! I will try this again tomorrow after I switch to the smaller size jets and I will let you know the results, thank you again for all the help.
@@AGAVE26 A good source is this video. th-cam.com/video/8iF5sewX6UU/w-d-xo.html
@@randall1959 I'll check it out right now thank you.
Is this process necessary if the bike ran good, but I swapped the cable out? I didn’t touch the idle screw. Thanks in advance, and nice simple video. 👌 I bought my bike this way, just trying to learn about it.
Where's the manifold and carb set-up come from I want to do the same conversation
This is the guy that I got the manifold from. It is actually much less expensive than when I bought mine: www.ebay.com/itm/Gl1000-Gl1100-1200-single-solex-carb-carburetor-intake-manifold-goldwing/284128570428
And the guy that sold me the carb is no longer on ebay. But, if you do a search 34 - pict 3 carb there, you will see many to choose from. Good luck!
Are the O-rings for the intake manifolds too expensive around your place?
Price had nothing to do with it. Not many places in Vegas have very many parts in stock for 38 year old bikes. I was very impatient to get that carb mounted and didn't want to wait the 3 to 5 days for ordering. I have no issues using the rtv anyway. I am not sloppy with it, as to cause some of it getting sucked into the cylinders. And, the sealing surface is much larger than the o-ring, so there is less chance of failure. The only drawback to me, is the extra time it takes to clean up next time they have to come off.
Magnetic Intrusion , well, along the years I have found silicon inside the cylinders water jackets, oil strainers clogged, etc, etc, that’s why I am “sensitive” about the use of silicon or derivatives, but hey!, it’s not my bike and you are not sloppy, my opinion?, I will wait 3 to 5 days for the right part
@@magneticintrusion Price? Planning? or lack thereof. The damn part is 4 bucks. and available from Amazon in less than 3 days. 20 bucks and no gel ball leaks. Personally, ANYONE that uses that junk is a hack. Only wish I could un-see it. Immediately stopped watching cause I do not like non professionals not using brain cell power and being lazy. That junk makes a mess of anything after the fact and takes extra unnecessary time to scrape and clean up when it is absolutely 100% not required.
@@anonimous2451, ...he could've gone to any ACE Hardware or auto parts store for O-rings.
Ethanol and vacuum will eventually have him redoing those elbows, more sooner than later.
@@anonimous2451 I thought the same. Not a fan of that goop he used. Not for intake work anyway. O rings come in a myriad of sizes if NOS cannot be found quickly. Silicone will always be a bad idea near fuel.
Hi there !
Where did you get your carb and what model is it?
Sorry I didn't see this sooner. www.ebay.com/itm/New-34-Pict-3-Carburetor-12V-Electric-Choke-For-VW-Beetle-113129031K/222062012224?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Awesome! Your video is the most "complete"video that I've seen so far congrats.
How you secure the throttle cable to the carb?
@@AGAVE26 Thanks! The carb comes with a 'barrel' that has a screw in it and a hole that the cable is put through. The screw is then tightened to hold the cable in place. See the details starting at the 38:00 mark.
What you do with breather tube in top of the engine?
@@AGAVE26 the filter housing has one attachment on the bottom. So, I have the two hoses from the engine going to a tee, and the to the tube on the bottom of the housing.
Did you buy this as a kit
No. Although that would be a convenient article. I knew what I wanted to do. I researched as much as possible. And I ended up selecting what I did because of price and compatibilities with each other. I have the links to all parts used in the description. Thanks for watching and the interaction!!!
what does this project cost
Hi Dan , you should be able to grab that intake and carb for around 180 shipped , add a low profile air cleaner and you should be nearly 210ish complete .
Intake manifold is $100 and the carb is $60 both on Evil Bay
Have you done this conversion on a 1200gl?
I have not. But, I am looking for one to do next!
@@magneticintrusion I'm doing one but it idles at 1500 to 2000 and falls on its face in acceleration.
@@mattmcdonough6831 What carb do you have? Just off the cuff here, i would for a vacuum leak, then if the vacuum advance may be on the wrong port, or further adjusting is needed.
@@magneticintrusion I'm going to go back through the system and see. You live in Las Vegas NV area?
@@mattmcdonough6831 Yeah man. Near Sahara and Decatur...
Silicone makes me queezy...Should have waited for those O rings....My thought your bike though.
how about vacuumcum hoses
Hey there. Thanks for watching. There was only one vacuum line on this bike. It is for the advance on the ignition. There is a update in the notes that explains I attached it to the wrong outlet on the carb in this video. That vacuum advance line connects the the upper port on the throttle side of carb. With the two blowby ports on the block, I connected each of those to a tee, then connected that single line to the connection on the bottom of the air cleaner housing. I will make a update video for all to see the details...
@@magneticintrusion thanks my bike must be finished tomorrow
throw up a review of the performance.
Great step by step, made me feel like even this idiot could do it
It will never be better then the factory setup. It’s been Dyno proven.
Hm...Automatic choke. Simple maintenance. Much cheaper. Better mileage. Noticeable performance improvement. What did the dyno say about those things?
With that horseshit of a setup he's got, ...you are correct sir.
Kinda hard to hear you talk over that fuckin music,damn.
...more junk.
...phfffft.
Oh yeah? Lets see what you got buddy...
@@magneticintrusion, clearly, ...you've lost your mind.
@@user-tz2xk4cz5z Another nobody, with nothing but opinions, that are worthless...Thanks for watching and taking the time for sharing your thoughts.
@@magneticintrusion, hey bigshot, maybe you should start with a intake manifold worth putting any carburetor on, because what you've got is junk...
...here, let me help you:
th-cam.com/video/xAASeuN2ueA/w-d-xo.html
@@user-tz2xk4cz5z Ok Mr. KnowItAll. Your thoughts on this are lacking any content. Just like your page. How do you know that manifold works better than this one, or any other? Do you have a Goldwing you put it on? Show us a link to your bike with that manifold on it. Wait... Do you even ride?
Again, it is your opinion. And your rudeness to convey that opinion is the issue with me. There is no reason to be an ass about things, just because your opinion is different from others. I intentionally bought the cheapest manifold and carburetor I could, for a reason. Most people that are riding a pre 90's motorcycles do that because they don't have, or don't want to spend money on something newer. These work just like the fancy ones, for much less cost. That is important to some people that don't have money to throw around right now. And the bike is running perfect, with more power and much better mileage, for less than $200.
I suggest you turn your energies from negativity and do something creative, fun and/or informative to post on your TH-cam page. Perhaps a side by side test of bikes with different conversions, to compare the data vs the cost and efforts. Then, your opinion on this matter would count for something other than trolling...