Definitely a lot easier than what I thought it would be before I did it. Using the thicker flat stock I chose may not be as aesthetically pleasing to some if they want it painted but it’s great for trucks that “work and/or play”.
I tried to pull part number but item was no longer available. These were just the outside skins, generic version from an eBay seller for 99-16 f250s. Still a bunch on there from others. I do not use inner skins when repairing these. I cut 1/8” thick 3” wide flat steel as the braces and use some of old inners that were still in good shape. I dislike the factory design which is too closed off which retains moisture and debris causing all this rusting. They put foam in corners too which just holds water in.
How well was the corner welded without taking the bed off? Just curious,. I'm gonna fix my corners on my Ford F-250. Thought I'd ask. Maybe it's not necessary, that would make things easier. Thanks for the video.
While I would say no it’s not easy and definitely not a great weld I made in that area, I would do it again over taking the bed off because of the condition my bed bolts are in. There will be a 2” area that can’t be welded nicely and I did basically connected spot welds. If your bed bolts are in good shape it’s not hard to back them out and slide bed back a few inches. Just depends on the situation.
I did it kinda here and there a couple hours at a time. Maybe 8-10 hours each side from start to finished and coated. Would be much longer if it was painted to match and the extra prep work to smooth out.
I like to use brush on Rustoleum because it’s thick and hides imperfections. Spray where I can’t reach a brush. Then cover in bed liner. Walmart brand is actually my favorite. This time I tried Harbor Frieght bed liner. It works but too thick and chunky for my liking.
It’s a diamond metal blade. Not to be confused with the diamond concrete blade. Works great. Probably cost 5x more than abrasive cut off wheel but last the time of 10 blades
The blade is actually labeled for metal and directly says not for concrete. When I compared it to my larger concrete blades (because I was skeptical) there are notable differences between them. They are great blades and last much longer but down sides are when they get dull they’ll grab, rip metal, and possibly take finger meat with them. Another down side if you bend it your out a more expensive blade but it’s not easy to bend. Plus is no exploding wheel.
![How to Replace a Cab Corner on a Truck [Full Version]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/0zU2hXBcrvM/mqdefault.jpg)
Nice job! My inner rockers are rusted out on my Excursion. This didn’t look to bad to do.
Definitely a lot easier than what I thought it would be before I did it. Using the thicker flat stock I chose may not be as aesthetically pleasing to some if they want it painted but it’s great for trucks that “work and/or play”.
looks good
Kdog thank you!
What was the part number of the new replacement corner inner & outer? Also where did you order it? Thanks
I tried to pull part number but item was no longer available. These were just the outside skins, generic version from an eBay seller for 99-16 f250s. Still a bunch on there from others. I do not use inner skins when repairing these. I cut 1/8” thick 3” wide flat steel as the braces and use some of old inners that were still in good shape. I dislike the factory design which is too closed off which retains moisture and debris causing all this rusting. They put foam in corners too which just holds water in.
Hey where did you get your cab corners from?
Got them off EBay. Seller was Best-autoparts
How well was the corner welded without taking the bed off?
Just curious,. I'm gonna fix my corners on my Ford F-250. Thought I'd ask. Maybe it's not necessary, that would make things easier.
Thanks for the video.
While I would say no it’s not easy and definitely not a great weld I made in that area, I would do it again over taking the bed off because of the condition my bed bolts are in. There will be a 2” area that can’t be welded nicely and I did basically connected spot welds. If your bed bolts are in good shape it’s not hard to back them out and slide bed back a few inches. Just depends on the situation.
@@BugmanVlogs thanks for the reply. I'll try it your way. I'll try to do a video on it and you can check it out in a few weeks.
I subscribed
What did you put on there with the paint brush ? Is that underbody stuff
They grey is an enamel tractor paint with hardener mixed in. The black is bed liner.
What was the brown paint? Also excellent tutorial 👌
how many hours total to do that
I did it kinda here and there a couple hours at a time. Maybe 8-10 hours each side from start to finished and coated. Would be much longer if it was painted to match and the extra prep work to smooth out.
What kind of paint did u use
I like to use brush on Rustoleum because it’s thick and hides imperfections. Spray where I can’t reach a brush. Then cover in bed liner. Walmart brand is actually my favorite. This time I tried Harbor Frieght bed liner. It works but too thick and chunky for my liking.
wat blade was u using to cut the metal?
It’s a diamond metal blade. Not to be confused with the diamond concrete blade. Works great. Probably cost 5x more than abrasive cut off wheel but last the time of 10 blades
Welder for 30 yrs that concrete diamond blade looks scary.
The blade is actually labeled for metal and directly says not for concrete. When I compared it to my larger concrete blades (because I was skeptical) there are notable differences between them. They are great blades and last much longer but down sides are when they get dull they’ll grab, rip metal, and possibly take finger meat with them. Another down side if you bend it your out a more expensive blade but it’s not easy to bend. Plus is no exploding wheel.
Nice. Thx for the explanation