How to Replace Rusted Cab Corner + Rocker Panel | 1995 Ford 150
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 10 ก.ย. 2024
- For those of your who own these trucks, we know it is a matter of time before we need to replace the cab corners. Here's how to do it!
⏰ Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
Welcome to The Minute Masters TH-cam Channel where I (Stevie) show you how to repair and upgrade all Ford F series trucks and Broncos from 1980-1997. So hit that subscribe button and be ready to resurrect your baby!🤙
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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This is a great video. I am working on a 96 crew cab right now in the rear door post area. Is not totally the same as a single cab but gave me great points and tips on how i am going to fix my truck. My rockers are in great shape other than by the door post/ cab corner area of the truck. Now that i seen how you fixed it i feel like i am not a nervous to tackle the job. Thank you very much!!!
Thanks man!🤙 glad to hear I can help you out!
Good job dude. My dad was a body man as well as his father. He never wanted us to follow in their footsteps but recently He passed and I’ve been wanting to do some body work.. I’m a welder by trade.. maybe it’ll help me cope.. anyway I’ve seen that man do stuff like this and then paint it over and you would never be able to tell. Even if you looked under the vehicle no matter what he did you rarely were able to find any proof of body work.. he was quite spectacular.. i think this kinda work is dying because most people think it’s not worth the hard work and it takes a lot of skill and time to make a vehicle to the point where the body work will outlast the rest of the body/frame. Anyway great job and video man..
Thanks man!🤙 I really appreciate it. Sorry to hear about your dad. He sounds like he was a master craftsman. You are right. Body work is a dying art and no one wants to do it anymore. Pre-painted plastic parts are taking over. Anyhow, definitely try body work. It can be tedious but the results are rewarding. Thanks again!
@@TheMinuteMasters he really was a master craftsman.. He’s been described as just that by many of people throughout my life. When I was young he had his own collision shop. I’ve even seen him chop the entire ass end of a cars unibody frame and weld it onto a wrecked vehicle. At the time I was young but looking back I remember the end results being amazing. I also bought a 06 Pontiac GTO about 8 years ago. It was wrecked with only 60k well we fixed that thing up and took it for it r title inspection within two weeks. The place we took it couldn’t believe he did sucha great job so fast. They knew it was wrecked and where. (It was their car previously) even they couldn’t tell if he fixed the parts or we bought new ones! Well nothing was new not even the plastic bumpers that were torn lol I miss him.. and you definitely inspired me to give this a try so thank you again. You gained a subscriber from me!
@@zacha8934 That’s incredible! I admire skills like your dad. Hopefully, this will allow you to channel your dad’s skills. I’m a believer that being able to work with your hands well, is a gift not everyone has. I’ll bet you have that same gift. So definitely give it a try! You can definitely do it!🤙 You are most welcome man! Thank you!
Thanks for the video! I live in Wisconsin, where rust is common. I just picked up an '86 F-150 that I'm going top fix up a bit and am about to bring home a Bricknose F-350 crew cab dually that I plan to significantly customize. I know the F-150 will need this exact repair so it was really helpful to see it run through, and this also gives me an idea on how to tackle what I want to do to the Bricknose. Keep the older iron running!
Thanks man! 🤙 Nice those will both make great project trucks.
My two biggest pieces of advice are buy everything you may or may not need (you can always return stuff) and pay close attention to the fitment of the new panels to existing. Plus how to door fits to the cab. You want the cab corner to be even with the bed and you want the door frame to match perfectly worth the door so the door seals against the weather stripping.
You just made my day. I didn't think anybody made that OEM style rocker panel with the seatbelt bolt hole, only the outer piece with the door posts witch i have but not enough to do it right. Thanks, I ordered the 2 rockers from Raybucks minutes ago as i need them for my 83 F100 reg cab.
No problem man! 🤙 Great to hear. You can repair just about anything on these trucks. Sometimes it’s finding the parts that is tricky. Thanks for watching man!
Good video. One thing I have done in the past instead of rivets is a plug weld which looks like a spot weld. Drill the 3/8 hole on the outer panel the weld it full to the inner panel.
Stephen Flynn Oh yeah! I did that on the other side. I like that method a lot. I just got tired of welding on this project. Lol
Thanks for sharing your experiences of working on these trucks. Gives a great outlook for others like myself who are getting in to it.
George B. No problem! I appreciate it! That’s exactly what I want! I want to provide an online video resource for people working on these trucks. Glad you enjoy them and thanks for watching!🤙
Hit a gold mine finding this channel! Going to attempt to do this soon on my 95 F350. Only have a small spot on one cab corner. Doesn’t look like it’s quite on the rocker panel but it’s pretty close. I’m contemplating whether to just get the cab corner or get the rocker piece too.
Thanks man!🤙 You can always return panels you don’t use. You can buy both just to play it safe.
Thanks so much for this video. I’m starting a restoration on my 1980 F-150 and My panels are in similar shape. You’ve definitely shed some light on what can be done. The biggest question I had was if the cab would need to be removed to complete these repairs. Looks like you answered that question.
ogiegloa No problem man!🤙 Nice! The cab definitely stays in place but you can unbolt the bed and slide it back. This allows you access the back side of the cab corners really well for welding and such.
WOW! You did an amazing job very clean. Stevie
THE80SMUSICLOVER Thanks man! 🤙 To me it’s not perfect but overall not bad.
you just gave me a heep of confidences in takiling that on my truck my whole door seal is gone on both sides and the rockers are shot too and the cab corners are just flat out gone
Friedrich Wilhelm Hell yeah man! 🤙 With the right tools and equipment I believe anyone can do these rust repairs.
I got a little cheesed when I saw that whole inner rocker piece you had! I did the entire rockers, cab corners and A pillars on my 94 recently and couldn’t find those pieces so I had to make them
OntarioRedneXXX Damn! That sucks! When I first started doing this, I thought I would have to do the same thing. I was dreading this project until someone told me they make the individual patch panels. 😅
The Minute Masters you should take a close look at the cross sill in the back of the cab. If the corners are that bad chances are it’s bad too. I got crafty and completely replaced mine. I already patched it up a few years ago so it was time
OntarioRedneXXX My can sill is in perfect shape!👌 I pulled the entire floor liner out to roll bedliner on the floor. So I was able to inspect everything. Then I put the floor liner back. My only problem I’m fighting now is a water leak some where. It only affects the driver’s side. The cab corner fills up first.
Nice work! Getting geared up to do this to my 95 bright sapphire pearl metallic f150 as well!!
Thanks man!🤙 Hell yeah another purple f150!!
You did a really nice job on your truck. They should make plastic parts for vehicles in the rust belt for as much as they cost.
Donald Swink Thanks man!🤙 It’s not perfect and maybe that’s just my perspective. However, I am still happy how it turned out. I know right! Or aluminum parts.
Donald Swink oil spray oil spray oil spray annually drill holes and plug miss nothing miss nothing under coat does nothing nothing I did it for a dealership I worked at only oil works after cleaning and applied annually
nick king You would drill holes in the body and spray oil into them? Like oil the cab corners and such?
The Minute Masters yes sir I’d just do that ,I have a1992tracker I have done since 1998 I remove tail lights to get wheel arches,hood ,tailgate front fenders ,I hit everything use a good respirator and goggles an old tarp mabe an old sheet on the tarp stay away from exhaust and cat you don’t want a fire . I use a pump up sprayer. Or I use air and an undercoat gun ,and sometimes a cheap paint gun that pressurized the cup slightly . I always use protection , I have a summer driven 1976 vette I have done it not every year but most since 1981 frame is mint and so is suspension, I make sure to not get on brakes but I hit emergency brake cables and all lines it’s humid in summer wet in fall and spring and salty in the snow months ,they use rock salt and now brine which is beet juice and salt sticks to you cars and trucks worse than ever and damages bridges rail road tracks even in the air in my opinion and settles on equipment not road driven .
nick king Nice! This is all good to know and I’ll definitely try it! The salt and the brine has definitely gotten worse. Even newer trucks are rusting out fast.
My tip as soon as paint is dry oil spray repair from back side and drill 1/2 holes get plastic plugs at auto store but do pillars double inside of box drill 1/2 holes and put black plugs in after. I even do under the carpet , all the double sections ,tail gate ,doors drill pillars and oil hood , fenders lines ware respirator approved for oil mist goggles nitrile gloves , don’t get on exhaust components . The oil will prevent water and salt to get at the repair and other rust on the truck plus prevent further rusting also do inside of the frame and suspension , bolts use your common sense as to how to apply ,I use sprayer pump up kind ,and old cheap paint gun that is pressurized works great use bio friendly oil like canola , chain bar , cheap baby oil from dollar store smells nice too and maybe some non detergent motor oil don’t wash you car or truck for a couple of days. In my high school and college days I worked for a gm dealership and I did body work ,undercoating ,oil sprayed most of our body jobs because of hi call backs , it worked oil stopped the call backs happy customer happy boss* Don’t do this without an approved respirator that been properly fitted and is rated for oil mist don’t and ware goggles and rubber nitrile gloves also use jack stands and wheel blocks
nick king This is good stuff! The plug idea sound almost like the internal zinc coatings they used to do. I definitely agree on the safety gear.Thanks Nick! This is great advice and I definitely want to try it before snow and road salt season starts. Maybe I’ll do a video on how it turns out.🤙
Great walk-through thanks for the info
No problem man! 🤙I’m glad you enjoyed it!
Will be attempting this soon, as well as the floor pan corners
Izak Tibbetts Good luck man! My advice is get everything you can possibly need and then take your time. Music helps too!👍
I wish you the best of luck on your repair and mounting your passenger side seat belt.
Joe Dirt It’s funny you should mention it. Now that I have a nice brand new mounting plate/new rocker panel, the seat belt install was a breeze!👍😅
You make it look easy.
Lol. I guess I did, but it’s most definitely a challenge.
very nice and clean video ..well done
Dathan Watts Thanks man! 🤙 Glad you enjoyed it!
@@TheMinuteMasters Getting ready to do mine soon. Lots of panels :) What welder do you use?
Motavis Jones Nice! Just get all the stuff you need up front so you are ready. Yup! Lots of panels for sure. I use an Eastwood 175 welder. I guess it’s kind of a hobbyist welder than a commercial, but it does the trick.
@@TheMinuteMasters That is all I am looking for hehe Something that works. Watching your other videos. Working on the frame now section at a time since I use it daily. Love the panels though. A few dollars in panels and work instead of a $40,000 new truck lol
Motavis Jones That’s the way to do it on a DD. I know right! 40k is plain crazy! I could restore two or three trucks at that price! Lol
Best video out there for these f150s by far, Great job stevie
Chauvin's Garage Thanks man! 🤙 I appreciate it! Thank you for watching!
@@TheMinuteMasters Keep up the Quality work, Your Camera Angles and lighting Sets you apart from every other DIY Channel. Very well explained and you put things easy to understand., Can we get a video on How to change Rear Leaf Spring Bushings next? :D
Chauvin's Garage Thanks man! 🤙 Good to know my methods are working out! Hopefully, I can keep improving them for ya! So my leave springs need to be changed. So there is definitely a possibility for a leaf spring bushing video.
@@TheMinuteMasters That would be awesome! I Currently have a 1991 F150 that I'm slowly restoring just like you, Its considered a "Brick Nose" 87-91 body style, But the Suspension and chassis is the exact same as the 92-96 or "OBS" like your truck. So all your Bushing replacement videos have helped me tremendously with understanding how to take on the task. My whole front end needs to be re done, and thanks to your videos I feel very confident I can do it myself without having to take it somewhere. How do you tell if your Leaf springs are bad? Mine still have good arch but the Bushing in the front hanger and rear I'd like to have replaced
Chauvin's Garage Sounds like you have been doing your home work! The OBS trucks share a lot. It’s mostly body style that separates them. I’m glad I could help you out though! These trucks are a lot of fun to work on and very satisfying! 🤙
As far as old leaf springs, yours could still be in good shape. I’m off the opinion that after 150k + miles all springs both leaf and coil should be replaced if you want to restore the truck to factory ride specs. I don’t have a rear leaf spring brand to recommend to you but I can definitely steer you clear of bad front coil spring brands. Moog and AC Delco coil springs are garbage. It’s worth while buying springs from an online source that says they make test them according to oem specs. You will spend $150 but you should get a decent set.
Make your self a hot meal and a cold drink and sweet dreams you worked hard and you deserve a good nights rest.
Joe Dirt Thanks man! Will do!🤙
It would be cool to see some of the welding or welder setup too if you could. Great video though. Crazy amount of work. Someday I hope mine looks as good as yours.
Ross Kraszewski Yeah I wish I could too. I use a Eastwood 175 Mig welder with C25 gas and I think .8 wire. The welding itself is nothing special. Just lots of tacking. Welding fresh steel was nice but anything remotely rusted was tedious.
Thanks man! I’m glad you enjoyed it! 👍 Yours will get there!
Good job looks great
Marcel Marino Thanks man!🤙
Do you have the part number for that sill plate with the seat belt hole? I don't see it on Raybucks
Here ya go👇
raybuck.com/product/1987-98-ford-pickupbronco-oem-rocker-panel-support-driver-side/
It would be awesome if you did a rust repair at the roofline at the top of the windshield! I’m having trouble finding videos and info on it.
Dude, same! I have the worst rust at the top of my windshield and it leaks into my cab on rainy days. So you will definitely see a video on that in the near future.🤙
Looks good to me. I have a 1993 Flareside .. my drivers is just starting..can you recommend a good primer or something that stops the rust to go any further?
Thanks man! Yes, Eastwood makes a 2k epoxy primer that is just as good as the stuff they use in body shops.
@@TheMinuteMasters thanks man !! Have a good week ! Take it slow and easy.
@@styga1969 You too! Thanks🤙
Great job, thanks for the info
Thanks man!🤙 I appreciate it!
I need to repair the tocker panels on my 10th gen f150 extended cab, the backsoor doesnt have rust bht where the door WOULD BE has a ton of rust on it, what metal can i use to repair it? And how would i go about it?
Are you saying the hinge mounting locations are rusty or around the door frame? If you can’t buy actual patch panels, the steel on these trucks is 18 gauge. You can usually go to a steel/metal supply company and buy sheets of it. Then you would just have to cut and fit them.
Is that angle iron riveted on to the rocker?
That’s the patch panel riveted to another patch panel.
Looks great man
Todd Hannah Thanks! 🤙 It was a marathon project!
You probably know already, sometimes you can lay your new piece right on top and use self tapping screws to secure it tight. Then use the cutoff wheel through both panels for an exact sized patch. Some guys will angle cut so you have a nice overlap miter to weld. Doesn’t always work due to interference.
Andrew Cunningham Actually, I haven’t heard that idea before and like it! I’ve used Clecos used in aircraft construction. I’ll have to try that!
How much would this cost to get done I’m in Orlando.
Not know the Orlando area much, I can’t say for sure. Under $1000 would be a good deal in my opinion. Here in Iowa, I was quoted $1500 and that included paint.
I noticed an Eastwood welder in the back ground. Is that what you used? How do you like it if it was
Luke Norman It sure is! It’s the Eastwood 175 which is rated for I think up to 3/8 inch steel. It’s pretty good! I don’t have a lot of experience with other welders. However, Eastwood is decently priced (my dad got it on sale for I think around $500), hasn’t given me problems, Eastwood’s customer service is fantastic (fried the motherboard on a previous welder. Took it in for repair and a week later they gave me a new one), and it takes common welding consumables. If I was to upgrade, I’d go for a Miller. That’s almost another $600 more.
I don't have a welder. But I do have the new Milwaukee M12 rivet gun. Can I use that instead? And then use seam sealer?
KickDownDoors That’s sweet! I’m a huge Milwaukee tools fan! So you can rivet the panels on there and use seam sealer. As long as you’re ok With seeing overlapping panels. If you have a air compressor. You can actually buy a pneumatic flanging tool and if you flange the edges and then rivet them everything might sit flat enough that you might be able to bondo and fill and it would look almost like a weld job. Have you seen my video about the rusty fender fixed? I riveted the hatch fender panels for the bedsides. It came out really nice!
@@TheMinuteMasters - yea Milwaukee just had their new product show yesterday. I converted from Makita last fall/winter when deals were incredible. TH-camrs did a bad job at Milwaukee Tool's NPS19. Will have to wait for the better ones to upload. Thanks for pointing out your rivet video. Will go look now and use your experience to figure out best way for me. Appearance isn't important for this project. I appreciate your attention to detail. Offering alternative ways really helps. Thanks!
KickDownDoors I did see that! I agree the coverage is terrible. I used to be DeWalt back in the day. Once I went Milwaukee with their current battery system, I was hooked! Hey no problem! 🤙 I understand most guys are on budgets and a full welder set up even a cheap one is several hundred dollars. So I’m always looking for a more economical fix. Glad you like my idea! Thanks for watching!
Did you butt weld the cab corners?
Yes, I butt joint welded most of my joints.
@@TheMinuteMasters you did a great job! I honestly I’m deciding to overlap the whole cab corner since it’s much easier for me. It won’t be too noticeable since I’ll grind it and use body filler.
Hey cool video I have to do the same on my 2009 f150 but I can't find anything online, the ones I found on amazon have negative reviews. Where did you get this?
Thanks man!🤙 I have two resources for these patch panels. Auto body specialists.com and ray bucks.com.
Thanks for watching!
Hi there! Great video! I’m currently prepping to do the exact same thing to replace rocker panel, cab corner and seat belt base bolt on my 94 F150. I’m new to all of this type of work. Would you mind giving me a list of the tools and supplies you used? That would be an awesome help. Thanks.
Hi Phil! Thanks!🤙
That’s great! Here’s a rough list:
- welder + safety equipment
- tool to cut patch panels (I used an angle grinder and a bench top shear)
- marking implements (sharpies for prep, chalking stone for during welding)
- drill plus bits for drilling out wells
- body panel chisels
- grinding disks and flap disks for grinding welds
- wire brush
- seam sealer plus caulk gun
- 2k primer
- tarp to shield interior and other parts of your truck from sparks.
- measuring tools
- welding magnets to hold panels in place
- vise grid for holding panels
That’s mostly what I can remember. There’s a lot of cool tools out there to help you. So it’s worth researching. Eastwood has a ton of helpful tools for doing body work.
Awesome! Thank you! I’ll most likely capture some pics along the way so maybe I can send ya some!
I’m finally getting around to fix my truck near the end of the week. Looks like you didn’t need to take your door off. How far towards the front did you repair? Then again after looking at mine again I think I’ll be replacing only up to that seem a few inches before the door.
@@philipyonts-fp9ht Nice! So I’ve done this two different ways. The first time, I replaced all the way up to where the front fender bolts to the rocker/sill piece. For that one I did have to remove the door in this video I only went to that first seem so I was able to leave the door on.
Thank you and thanks for taking the time to reply to an older video. This is the best and only video I found for this exact situation. It’s been very helpful.
currently looking at fixing the rust on my 82 F100. driver side is bad enough where there is no more strength in the cab and the rocker panel is only held on by about 5 inches or so of good metal. Passenger is better but still pretty bad.
LUNITIC WILL Go for it man! My dad had an 82 as well. My advice is get as prepared as possible. Buy the tools and supplies you need and lastly put some good tunes on!🤙 It can be tedious but it’s worth the effort.
took a second look and its even worse than I thought. sucks as it's my only vehicle now
LUNITIC WILL My truck was so bad! I had holes in the floor under my feet. Lol No matter how bad it is, you can always fix it with the right combination of patch panels. If it’s your only vehicle, then you would need to focus on strategies that allow you to work on it over a weekend.
Could you share a link to the metal part the seatbelt attached to? I need to replace the same part on my truck.
Leslie Williams Yup! You are looking for the sill/ rocker piece.
Here’s a link to the left side: autobodyspecialt.com/lh-1987-1998-ford-pickup-bronco-inner-rocker-panel-2-door-standard-cab/
This website has every panel, fender, or sheet metal piece you could ever need!🤙
I will need to do this before too long as well on my '82. This really helps give me an idea of what I will be getting into. One question: when you say that you would cut more out, would that extend into the floor pan? Do you think that could be patched with scrap or would it need a replacement piece as well? You make great videos. Keep up the great work man!
anthony allsup Yeah I would cut about an inch more of the floor pan and about an inch higher on the corner. For the floor pan, you can use scrap steel. However the actually patch panel is only $45-50. Plus that piece also has the ridge where the door weather stripping clips onto.
Mine needs a full bottom sill.. yay me lol
Yeah my drivers side sill is rusting through now.
i can't believe that Ford would put out a truck with a common problem like this. why hasn't there been a class action? Its pitiful.
the corner on my ranger rusted out and i found foam in there that collected moisture :(
rvborgh Yeah definitely a design flaw, but I’m sure any class action would get bogged down in the courts. It’s only second hand buyers like me who are willing to cut these corners out and replace them.
that foam is the devil !
Rust creator!
Most likely the reason it rust so bad is because of the third light on the cab has a broken seal
Yeah that was definitely one of the reasons. I have found another place to leaks a lot. The front A pillar at the base of the windshield. The seam sealer breaks off and water seeps in throw the gap.
Just ordered cab corners for both sides online for my 2013. $40 each.
Kenneth Durbin Nice! That’s a good price!
@@TheMinuteMasters right. C2cfabrication.com. Where'd you buy yours?
Kenneth Durbin I buy mine from raybucks.com
@@TheMinuteMasters yeah I saw that site as well. Debating on them or the other site I found. Same corners though. How do they install?
Kenneth Durbin You have to cut out the rusted corner and cut the new piece to fit what you cut out and weld it back. It’s a little time consuming but as you saw, I did it in one day.
Great content but oh my God so much unnecessary talking. Get on with it. Everything step is a beaten deadhorse.
Thanks Mike! I appreciate the feed back. All my newer videos are much shorter and I cut all the unnecessary talking out.
Great job my friend! Not easy job at all with all the cutting and junk to get everything to how it was. Gotta love rust... I’m still trying to figure out how to replace just the top of that seam that connects the two as that’s where my rust started. Nothing else is bad and if I do start cutting into it I’ll have the two pieces separate might be harder to put em together :) anyways good job man and hey subscribe to my channel if you can. Cheers! OBS brother 👍
DrivenDiesel Thanks man! 🤙 It definitely isn’t easy and there are things I wish I could have done better on this repair.
Honestly, you can buy the patch panel for that seam and just cut what you need for it. Or you can buy 20 or 18 gauge sheet steel and make replacement pieces from scratch.
Thanks again man! Just subscribed!🤙
The Minute Masters thanks for subscribing! Appreciate it and yeah funny how they rust there even though it’s on the inside where it looks like mine started. Possibly flowing down from the seal or maybe someone did a bad job on sealing those seams from bottom up
DrivenDiesel No problem man! 🤙 I’m always ready to help an OBS brother out!
Yeah these trucks do rust from the inside out. From what I can tell there are a few major culprits. The third brake like leaks. At the base of the windshield where the two pieces of the A pillar meet is a leaking point if the seam sealer cracks off. A misaligned door won’t seal properly causing a leak. The last thing that causes these floors to rust is us getting in and out of the truck with wet or snow covered boots.
You screwed everything up when you used rivets.
Nicholas Brown Yeah rivets is not how I finished the driver’s side floor pan job, but it does the job. Tack welds would be cleaner looking but that’s up to the person restoring their truck.
But if you're doing a how to video you should do it the correct way. And rivets are not the correct way. Plus what type of rivets did you use? Steel or aluminum? Aluminum will corrode very quickly against the bare steel.
Nicholas Brown Good point. I guess I was getting to be along day. Lol So yes they are solid aluminum aircraft rivets. They hold paint better than regulate pop rivets. However, aluminum does have paint adhesion issues as Ford has found out with its latest trucks. If I was to do this repair I’d actually do it like the driver’s side.