I've been following your videos and your work is simply awesome. I have corrosion/rust on the bottom of my Super Duty cab, but nothing is soft what would you recommend...? I've tapped the floorplan and the supports and the rockers with a hammer and nothing falls, but they don't look great. Would you recommend sandblasting and a repaint...?
The key is getting as much rust off the metal as possible sandblasting works great but is messy and hard to to to the floor. Cleaning rust by hand is hard and takes long but a scrapper followed by wire wheel on heavy flakes, paint and rust stripping wheels on a grinder can make the metal shiny again, or scotch bright pade on the grinder. Then clean the area well and was with metal prep or another rust converter. Then I usually lean everything again with scotch bright on my grinder or small die grinder to make it shiny a final time. Always paint with an epoxy primer with iron phosphate in it so it wipe paint over any missed rust and still last 3 coats and once the epoxy has fully cured protect it for the future with regularly spraying it with a rust preventative like fluid film or something along those lines.
I used the full replacement cab corners here for the closest repair to factory, otherwise all my smaller patches were home made. Some of the repair cab corners you can buy are more of a slip on style and do not repair the structure of the cab that has been rotten away. The ones I used joined in all the factory spot weld areas as well as a butt weld to install and finish with a very close to factory look
This truck was a snow plow truck before I bought it and was covered in salt residue alone with the rust was pretty serious, and I had some hard to fix problems like most of the exhaust manifold studs were broken off. Removing the cab from the frame gave me access to cleaning all the rust from the the center parts of the floor easily with my sand blaster. Also gave me full access work on Removing the broken exhaust manifolds and studs. I also cleaned all the rust on the frame while it was appart and gave it a protective paint job. The amount of work to remove the cab was worth it for the energy saved by getting to work in more comfortable positions. For doing the cab corners, the cab off didnt really make a difference!
WARNING MUST BE WATCHED MUTED BECAUSE OF INAPPROPRIATE MIND NUMBING VOMIT INDUCING BACKGROUND MUSIC. What is wrong with you people who need your feeble minds constantly inundated with this Tweedle Dum Tweedle Dee Ga Ga Pooh background music?
Foam in the inside is factory. They also have it in the inner fender of the box
I've been following your videos and your work is simply awesome. I have corrosion/rust on the bottom of my Super Duty cab, but nothing is soft what would you recommend...? I've tapped the floorplan and the supports and the rockers with a hammer and nothing falls, but they don't look great. Would you recommend sandblasting and a repaint...?
The key is getting as much rust off the metal as possible sandblasting works great but is messy and hard to to to the floor. Cleaning rust by hand is hard and takes long but a scrapper followed by wire wheel on heavy flakes, paint and rust stripping wheels on a grinder can make the metal shiny again, or scotch bright pade on the grinder. Then clean the area well and was with metal prep or another rust converter. Then I usually lean everything again with scotch bright on my grinder or small die grinder to make it shiny a final time. Always paint with an epoxy primer with iron phosphate in it so it wipe paint over any missed rust and still last 3 coats and once the epoxy has fully cured protect it for the future with regularly spraying it with a rust preventative like fluid film or something along those lines.
@@tbad229thank you so much...!
cool video man
Thanks!
Holy cow I thought my truck was bad! Why did you take the cab off the frame? Are you using replacement panels
I used the full replacement cab corners here for the closest repair to factory, otherwise all my smaller patches were home made. Some of the repair cab corners you can buy are more of a slip on style and do not repair the structure of the cab that has been rotten away. The ones I used joined in all the factory spot weld areas as well as a butt weld to install and finish with a very close to factory look
Holy cow I thought my truck was bad! Why did you take the cab off the frame?
This truck was a snow plow truck before I bought it and was covered in salt residue alone with the rust was pretty serious, and I had some hard to fix problems like most of the exhaust manifold studs were broken off. Removing the cab from the frame gave me access to cleaning all the rust from the the center parts of the floor easily with my sand blaster. Also gave me full access work on Removing the broken exhaust manifolds and studs. I also cleaned all the rust on the frame while it was appart and gave it a protective paint job. The amount of work to remove the cab was worth it for the energy saved by getting to work in more comfortable positions. For doing the cab corners, the cab off didnt really make a difference!
Where did you get your cab corners? Awesome video..
These cab corners came from jegs.com
I hate body work so much im making my self watch body work so i dont have to actually do it.
WARNING MUST BE WATCHED MUTED BECAUSE OF INAPPROPRIATE MIND NUMBING VOMIT INDUCING BACKGROUND MUSIC. What is wrong with you people who need your feeble minds constantly inundated with this Tweedle Dum Tweedle Dee Ga Ga Pooh background music?
That’s one player ass wide stance you got there…
Chill bro chill