Thank you Brook! I just bought the same system for my R100/7. I bought new points, condenser and brushes, but it still doesn’t quite work. Hope the electronic ignition will yield better results. You give such a good, thorough explanation and small tips not found in other videos (like shaking excess solder off the pins to make them fit). I suppose they’re learned from a lifetime of experience. I hope you take it as an honor, when I say you’re a true oldtimer! Best, David
An excellent and thorough video. I've installed the larger alternator and an Alpha ignition on my R90/6 but want to do this upgrade to a 1980 R80/7. Keep up the great work!
Mike, thank you. So far we are laying low and have avoided the virus. Having this project to work on has been therapeutic. It's tangible work with concrete results that puts me in the here and now instead of spending time worrying about what may happen. That's one of the reasons I started rebuilding airheads a dozen years ago. It costs as much as psychological therapy sessions, but it's better as I can ride the result when I'm done. :-)
great idea about leaving the extra wiring under the cover. I left mine outside and it kinda takes up a lot of room around the rubber wiring spacer that mounts onto the frame on an r75/6.
Abhiram, Indeed with many of us staying home, we all need to find things to keep us busy. If that requires buying parts on line, that's a good thing for small business as well. Sounds like a win/win :-)
14:07 Thank you very much for the information you provide. My question to you is that the device works with 6v and 12v, but sometimes 14.1v comes from the battery, will it be a problem, will the device be damaged?
Gregoire, The kit comes with instructions about how to set the timing. In short, there is an indicator LED on the timing unit that lights when the timing window lets the light from the timing LED pass through to the sensor. You set this at Top Dead Center (TDC). The rotating timing window is a TDC senor and the electronics figures out the degrees of timing advance to apply using TDC as a reference point.
Hi Brook, what was your reasoning for choosing EME’s optical sensor system instead of Silent Hektic’s Hall or induction sensor systems? I’m finding it difficult to decide which of the three to go for. I really appreciate your instructional videos😉Ernie
Hi Ernie, I've had Hall effect sensor failures on two motorcycles. The sensor is a semiconductor. Semiconductors fail with heat. It's very hot inside the front engine cover. So, I thought I'd see how an optical sensor works. In support of that decision, others who have installed it who I respect say it's very reliable. So, I'll get to see how this system works over time.
Brook's Airhead Garage: Thank you, that tips the balance for me - I need something that is robust for my R100GSPD, and I think the other alternatives look less reassuring, and they’re not as easy to install. It will be a job for the winter.
Hi Brook! I am part way through this process (of removing the current alternator) AND I have a "mushroomed" shaft that I stuck into the center hole that secures the alternator to the crankshaft. I will purchase the Euromotoelectrics $8 tool that you refer to in this video, BUT I am stuck on how to go about removing the "mushroomed" shaft. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Hi Kyle, I'm sorry to hear about your misadventure. I have no advice or idea how to proceed to get the puller bolt removed. This short article by Bob Fleischer (aka "Snowbum") explains the requirements for the puller bolt in section 2. --> bmwmotorcycletech.info/rotorsfail.htm
Love the way you do your connectors your a pro You are going to have one nice bike!...........How do you set the timing, bike running and with a timing light?
1978 R80/7 @Brook, How much of the of the alternator bolt threads are engaged with the Timing Wheel Sleeve Installed. I tried another solution that is similar to this one but it only allowed a 3/16 of an inch of purchase on the threads and I ended up stripping 3/16 of the bolt and crank shaft, this happened before I realized so few theads were engaged. I would like to try another alternative Such as this one but the engagement of the bolt and crank is an issue now. I love your Channel by the way, keep it up.
Hi Mark, Well, I can't say I measured the engagement. But there is enough engagement that I had no problem tightening the alternator rotor bolt to 14 FT-lbs. So I have to assume the sleeve is not to thick as to cause a problem.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I just noticed that you mentioned the optical sensor choice a few times and that you think that hall sensors are not reliable. I would appreciate your opinion. I installed a silent hektik ignition on my R90 that uses a hall sensor. Just curious.
@@HeikosGarage My experience with them is two failures, one that stranded me on a cross-country tour. They are a semi-conductor. Heat is not the friend of semi-conductors and it gets quite hot inside the front engine cover. Unfortunately, when they fail, it's like a light switch and there is no work around. The BMW electronic bean can is a rather expensive spare to care around. So, I'm going to run this optical-electronic ignition. It's come highly recommended by folks I respect, so I'm hopeful this lasts longer that I do. :-)
Typical wolker sachse Ignition, you all ways have to make changed, because it never fits from the factory. Have put some on Moto Guzzi, with the hall sensor type, will newer buy it again, awful mounting instruction, too many things i had to make, because it did not fit at all.
Thank you Brook! I just bought the same system for my R100/7. I bought new points, condenser and brushes, but it still doesn’t quite work. Hope the electronic ignition will yield better results.
You give such a good, thorough explanation and small tips not found in other videos (like shaking excess solder off the pins to make them fit). I suppose they’re learned from a lifetime of experience.
I hope you take it as an honor, when I say you’re a true oldtimer!
Best,
David
These vids are a superb resource for airhead community. Thanks!
You're welcome. Thanks for coming by to watch.
Brooks you the man, very thorough and the best airhead mechanic on TH-cam! You make it idiot proof for even an accountant from Maine!
Daryl, Thank you for the kind words.
An excellent and thorough video. I've installed the larger alternator and an Alpha ignition on my R90/6 but want to do this upgrade to a 1980 R80/7. Keep up the great work!
Hi Michael, It sounds like you are keeping a number of airheads running. All the best.
Gonna do this on my 79 R 100RS. Very useful, Brook! Thanks (again)!
You're welcome Frank. Glad to hear you are keeping an RS up and running. :-)
Thanks again Brook! Love the way you explain every detail in your work! Always look forward to your videos. Hope all is well with you and your family.
Mike, thank you. So far we are laying low and have avoided the virus. Having this project to work on has been therapeutic. It's tangible work with concrete results that puts me in the here and now instead of spending time worrying about what may happen. That's one of the reasons I started rebuilding airheads a dozen years ago. It costs as much as psychological therapy sessions, but it's better as I can ride the result when I'm done. :-)
great idea about leaving the extra wiring under the cover. I left mine outside and it kinda takes up a lot of room around the rubber wiring spacer that mounts onto the frame on an r75/6.
More stuff to order now. Thanks a lott Brooks! ;)
Abhiram, Indeed with many of us staying home, we all need to find things to keep us busy. If that requires buying parts on line, that's a good thing for small business as well. Sounds like a win/win :-)
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Agreed!
Thanks for putting in so much effort into these videos. Now time to order some more parts for the old GS :)
14:07 Thank you very much for the information you provide. My question to you is that the device works with 6v and 12v, but sometimes 14.1v comes from the battery, will it be a problem, will the device be damaged?
Martin, no it is not damaged by the voltage used to fully charge the battery.
thanks👍
hi
How do you set the timing after instalation of the kit..? thank you very much And congratulations for your videos
Gregoire, The kit comes with instructions about how to set the timing. In short, there is an indicator LED on the timing unit that lights when the timing window lets the light from the timing LED pass through to the sensor. You set this at Top Dead Center (TDC). The rotating timing window is a TDC senor and the electronics figures out the degrees of timing advance to apply using TDC as a reference point.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage hi Thank you very much for your help!
You're welcome Gregoire.
Slick! Nice job. Very professional.
Extremely informative, very well presented. Well done sir.
Hi Brook, what was your reasoning for choosing EME’s optical sensor system instead of Silent Hektic’s Hall or induction sensor systems? I’m finding it difficult to decide which of the three to go for. I really appreciate your instructional videos😉Ernie
Hi Ernie, I've had Hall effect sensor failures on two motorcycles. The sensor is a semiconductor. Semiconductors fail with heat. It's very hot inside the front engine cover. So, I thought I'd see how an optical sensor works. In support of that decision, others who have installed it who I respect say it's very reliable. So, I'll get to see how this system works over time.
Brook's Airhead Garage: Thank you, that tips the balance for me - I need something that is robust for my R100GSPD, and I think the other alternatives look less reassuring, and they’re not as easy to install. It will be a job for the winter.
Hi Brook! I am part way through this process (of removing the current alternator) AND I have a "mushroomed" shaft that I stuck into the center hole that secures the alternator to the crankshaft. I will purchase the Euromotoelectrics $8 tool that you refer to in this video, BUT I am stuck on how to go about removing the "mushroomed" shaft. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Hi Kyle, I'm sorry to hear about your misadventure. I have no advice or idea how to proceed to get the puller bolt removed. This short article by Bob Fleischer (aka "Snowbum") explains the requirements for the puller bolt in section 2.
--> bmwmotorcycletech.info/rotorsfail.htm
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks for your response. I have really enjoyed your videos.
Love the way you do your connectors your a pro You are going to have one nice bike!...........How do you set the timing, bike running and with a timing light?
Very nice video.
Thank you Maverick.
1978 R80/7
@Brook, How much of the of the alternator bolt threads are engaged with the Timing Wheel Sleeve Installed.
I tried another solution that is similar to this one but it only allowed a 3/16 of an inch of purchase on the threads and I ended up stripping 3/16 of the bolt and crank shaft, this happened before I realized so few theads were engaged. I would like to try another alternative Such as this one but the engagement of the bolt and crank is an issue now. I love your Channel by the way, keep it up.
Hi Mark, Well, I can't say I measured the engagement. But there is enough engagement that I had no problem tightening the alternator rotor bolt to 14 FT-lbs. So I have to assume the sleeve is not to thick as to cause a problem.
Hi Brook, is the twin plug head a good upgrade, thanks Malcolm.
Malcolm, I like the increase in gas economy and it prevents pinging when using the higher compression 9.5:1 pistons.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks very much Brook.
Hall sensor vs optical ?
Heiko, okay, I'll bite. What is it you want to know?
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I just noticed that you mentioned the optical sensor choice a few times and that you think that hall sensors are not reliable. I would appreciate your opinion. I installed a silent hektik ignition on my R90 that uses a hall sensor. Just curious.
@@HeikosGarage My experience with them is two failures, one that stranded me on a cross-country tour. They are a semi-conductor. Heat is not the friend of semi-conductors and it gets quite hot inside the front engine cover. Unfortunately, when they fail, it's like a light switch and there is no work around. The BMW electronic bean can is a rather expensive spare to care around. So, I'm going to run this optical-electronic ignition. It's come highly recommended by folks I respect, so I'm hopeful this lasts longer that I do. :-)
Thanks an other time!!!
🏁🇮🇲✌
Typical wolker sachse Ignition, you all ways have to make changed, because it never fits from the factory.
Have put some on Moto Guzzi, with the hall sensor type, will newer buy it again, awful mounting instruction, too many things i had to make, because it did not fit at all.