1983 BMW R100RS Remove Diode Board, Alternator and Ignition Sensor

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ค. 2024
  • I show how to remove the electrical components under the front engine cover. You can read all the details of how I did this work here: brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle...
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ความคิดเห็น • 30

  • @saitama80
    @saitama80 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    You’re videos have been so helpful restoring my R100RT ‘82!

  • @ou7shined972
    @ou7shined972 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Without doubt the most comprehensive video on the subject on TH-cam. Many thanks. I have an '83 R80 TIC identical to this.

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      ou7shined: Thank you. It's nice to hear that this is useful.

  • @keithnicholl3859
    @keithnicholl3859 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    This is absolutely brilliant....I’m just at this strip down stage. Thank you

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      HI Keith, I'm pleased this is helpful. Don't forget to click the link in the video introduction text that will take you to the detailed procedure on my web site. The assembly web page and video will be available soon.

  • @OddsandSods26
    @OddsandSods26 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thank you. I expect to be removing the alternator next spring and now have much more confidence.

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Cam, Good, that's what I want to happen with these videos is they help remove mystery and replace uncertainty with assurance. As noted in the summary of the video, all the detail about this work can be found on my web site:
      brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/12-bmw-1983-r100rs-remove-diode-board-alternator-electronic-ignition-sensor/

  • @johnmatarazzo1901
    @johnmatarazzo1901 ปีที่แล้ว

    This saved me. Thank You for the video

  • @hurtlocker8554
    @hurtlocker8554 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    GREAT My Best Compliments from Italy.... REALLY GREAT

  • @bobvansand6346
    @bobvansand6346 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice info! Thanks, Bob Belgium Europe

  • @jimm4260
    @jimm4260 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thanks! very thorough!

  • @saitama80
    @saitama80 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I only have 2 short grounding cables that i can attach to the screw in the block. I have the RVS bolts not the rubber ones. Wil the 2 cables suffice instead of the 4 cable ‘octopus’ you showed us?

  • @EvLoutonian
    @EvLoutonian 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks! I found this useful & presented in just the right amount of detail to clearly follow along.
    (-:
    Do you know if my '81 R100-RS would have the rubber diode board mounts?
    It sounds like something to be aware of and maybe change out as a precaution?

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      EvLoutonian, BMW started introducing the rubber diode board mounts in 1979. It's likely your 1981 has them. It's easy to tell. Remove the battery ground cable. Remove the front engine cover. Inspect behind the diode board and you can see the rubber part of the mount.

  • @bav114
    @bav114 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    Brilliant video. Great detail. How similar is this set up to my 76 R100/7?

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Dave, They are the same, but your "ignition sensor" uses mechanical points, not the "bean can" used on the 1983 with hall effect sensors inside it.

  • @Aclan
    @Aclan 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I really appreciate for your effort for telling how is how!I learn so much for my airhead from your experiences sir.I really wonder where the pulse comes to the rev counter?From the coil or the electronic control unit?

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Aclan, On the stock ignition system, the timing pulse comes from the electronic ignition sensor (also called the "bean can" since it looks like a can) inside the front engine cover. The bean can uses two Hall effect sensors, one for each cylinder, that sends a signal to the ignition control unit under the gas tank. The ignition control unit cuts off the current flow to the coils creating the large voltage across the spark plugs making them arc.

    • @Aclan
      @Aclan 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thank you so much for your kind reply sir.But I want to find the pulse comes to the rev counter on the dash board.I guess it comes from the coil at 1995 R 80 GS.Am I right ?@@BrooksAirheadGarage

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      @@Aclan Yes, the tachometer has a black wire that runs to the coils. So it sees the on/off of the coil current and computes the RPM from that. The black wire goes to the same coil terminal the black wire from the ignition control unit attaches to.

    • @Aclan
      @Aclan 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@BrooksAirheadGarage Thank you so much for your reply :) I really learn a lot each time from you.Looking forward to your next video :)

  • @fostexfan160
    @fostexfan160 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great video. My 1980 R100 RS was not charging. I found the diode board had one or two tracks burnt out. What would cause this? I'd like to find out before I put a new diode board in. Thanks Brook

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  ปีที่แล้ว

      That sounds like the board was shorted. If you remove the front engine cover, but don't disconnect the battery ground, the cover can touch to metal frame of the diode board and short it out.

    • @fostexfan160
      @fostexfan160 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks Brook. The bike was not charging so I looked at a few things before the diode board. Battery was definitely disconnected before removing cover. There were broken and burnt tracks on the board. Just wondered what else could cause this

  • @brandonlutz338
    @brandonlutz338 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    1983 R/100, the Gen. light stays on so the bike will only go as far as the battery can take it since it isn't charging. Could you give suggestions on what issues to trace please?

    • @BrooksAirheadGarage
      @BrooksAirheadGarage  3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      Brandon, check the following:
      1: worn down rotor brushes
      2. rotor slip rings very dirty or cracked
      3. broken rotor wire
      4. shorted stator wire
      5. diode board shorted out
      6. loose charging system wires, or damaged