Install ARP Head Bolts On A 4.0 / 4.6 Land Rover Engine

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 6 ก.ย. 2024
  • In this video we're going to touch base on an option you have if you're rebuilding your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6 Land Rover Engine.
    And that is, essentially, a replacement set of studs instead of head bolts.
    Now you know a lot of the newer engines have the torque to yield head bolts, which you see a lot now on aluminum head engines.
    You're dealing with a high expansion and contraction rate which is why you need that style.
    But you find it if you look if you see a racing engine torn down a lot of them will have studs.
    The studs are a little bit more secure.
    They cost a little bit more but they definitely do a better job.
    Watch Doug, our Land Rover Master Technician, install ARP Engine Head Bolts using Kit # ARP4301 on a 4.0/4.6 Land Rover Engine.
    Doug also includes discussion of how to properly torque in the studs.
    0:11 Option if you're rebuilding your engine or doing head gaskets on a 4.0 / 4.6
    0:39 Studs are a bit more secure and do a better job
    0:52 Kit includes
    1:04 Clean threads
    1:19 Dab of Thread lock
    1:28 Use 5/8 or 16 millimeter 12 point socket, half inch drive
    1:40 Coarse threads fine threads
    3:40 Top of head gasket location
    4:00 Put in studs
    6:26 Torque in increments
    8:42 Push rods back in
    8:51 Rocker assembly back on top
    9:46 Final torque
    10:19 Finished product
    10:43 Ordering information
    Parts List
    www.roverparts...
    #atlanticbritish #ARPengineheadbolts #landrover #rangerover

ความคิดเห็น • 24

  • @onthemark3480
    @onthemark3480 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Installing ARP studs on my 93 classic- 3.9 with 14 bolt heads. I’m using elring composite gasket which only allows 10 bolts per head.
    Anyway, the ARP instructions I have are revision 1 from December 2016.
    They don’t state to put any thread lube on the stud entering the block, only on the external thread and bottom of nut.
    They state to tighten to 25, then 50 and then finally 70 ft-lbs, ensuring that the oil on both sides of the washer has been cleaned off before you start torquing.
    Bit of info for those who may be confused watching this..

  • @timboyle3114
    @timboyle3114 5 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Having just gone through this - Just a suggestion - If you do this on a classic and if the engines still on the car - Don't put the studs in before you laid the heads on the block, gasket, locating on the pins - You will not be able to get the heads back on! The current updated instruction set is quite clear on this. Also would not use the locktite. Also the torques recommended are different. Read the instructions properly.

    • @17quarters48
      @17quarters48 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      After reading your comment Im wondering if on my 92 Disco if I'll have room to put head on with studs in place?

    • @timboyle3114
      @timboyle3114 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@17quarters48 Sorry don't know about a disco, but if the front edge of the rear panel is anywhere near the edge of the head then I doubt it. If you think about it you will have to have at least 3 to 4 inches of clearance to get the head back on with the studs in place. not an issue if you have the locating dowels on the block as you should be able to get the head aligned fine and then screw in the studs. current instructions actually call out this order to assemble

    • @x-man4702
      @x-man4702 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      Per ARP instructions, you can use thread locker. The final torque settings does seem to be too high for these aluminium blocks.

    • @rweasel801
      @rweasel801 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      ​@17quarters48 I didn't have room on my 04 disco. Had put the heads on first then put the studs in

  • @dissociativecat7495
    @dissociativecat7495 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    No ARP torque lube needed ?

  • @pfernandez
    @pfernandez 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I just removed the heads from my Disco 2 and found that someone had used these. It was impossible to remove the heads without first removing the studs from the block because of how little distance there was between the head and the firewall.
    I’d therefore go very light on the loctite (or not use it at all) if you plan to do this because they’ll need to be removed later.

  • @miguelromero8378
    @miguelromero8378 5 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Hello!! I'm about to build a LR v8 3.9i engine!! (Discovery 1 - 1997)And I have a question!! The brand of the pistons on the left side point forward and those on the right side point backward? (LR V8 3.9) thanks

  • @pfernandez
    @pfernandez 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I’d be interested to hear the reasoning behind torquing to 85 ft lbs in two steps. The ARP instructions on the Atlantic British website say 100 ft lbs in three steps- but those are out of date (2012). The most recent (2016) revision states 70 ft lbs. Also, ARP specifies a proprietary lube, not engine oil.
    Atlantic British is great, and the videos are normally awesome, but all in all I’d be very hesitant to follow the instructions in this video.

    • @rweasel801
      @rweasel801 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

      I put these on my 04 disco about 5 years ago and followed the 100ftlb instructions. Pulled the threads out of three holes! Used helicoils to fix them. But yes, 100 ftlb is way too much!!!

  • @andft7897
    @andft7897 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Ok good thanks

  • @robbennett
    @robbennett 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I wonder if these stretch to accommodate the newer composite head gasket. And if so are they reusable?

    • @x-man4702
      @x-man4702 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      They are reusable

  • @ninja63639
    @ninja63639 ปีที่แล้ว

    How do you guys feel about cometic head gaskets?

  • @troynoble168
    @troynoble168 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Would you recommend the head stud system over the head bolt system on a 215 v8 Buick rebuild?

    • @JUKE179r
      @JUKE179r 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      yes.that is the engine he is working on for a Land Rover Discovery 2.

    • @michaelhite1433
      @michaelhite1433 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@JUKE179r although the Rover V8 is based on the Buick 215, the 215 uses different head studs. 14 total for the 215 compared to 10 for the Rover. 2 different kits. For 215 performance parts, checkout TA Performance.

    • @onthemark3480
      @onthemark3480 10 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

      @@michaelhite1433Early rovers have 14 bolt heads. I’m building one right now. I ordered the 10 stud kit and will use bolts torqued very lightly for the outer 4 fixings in an effort not to “rock” the head and contribute to premature head gasket failure.

  • @joseprado8611
    @joseprado8611 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi i have a question I have a 2005 landrover freelander se 2.5L can you tell me what is the torque wrench bolts setting in the head cylinder for this car I check it on Google but I get a little confused be cuz here say.... stage1 25 nm (18ft.lbs) and stage2 25nm(18ft.lbs) and stage3 25nm(18ft.lbs) and then 180??? my question is I have to tighten the heads bolts stage1 .. 25 nm (18ft.lbs) all the bolts and then stage2 is 18ft .lbs +18ft.lbs = 36ft.lbs all the bolts and then the stage3 = 54 ft.lbs all the bolts and then the stage4 180 or how ???? sorry but I'm confused can you help me with that thank you

    • @atlanticbritishrp
      @atlanticbritishrp  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hi Ashley, So the torque rating stays the same through all 4 stages. Stages 1-3 are at 18ft/lbs. while stage 4 is a half turn.

    • @joseprado8611
      @joseprado8611 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Hooo ok thank you so much

  • @andft7897
    @andft7897 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    From khalid alraisi

  • @tonye4176
    @tonye4176 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Those arb studs are garbage
    They always come loose and course so many problems. Use stretch bolts