I’m still sitting on a 2005 Range Rover with RECENTLY REPAIRED VALVE COVER GASKETS and only 150k on the engine. We should TALK PART SWAP! Would somebody get the word to SAMCRAC please?!?
The M62 is most definitely NOT known to overheat or blow gaskets ... It's a great engine that will do stellar mileage requiring little other than oil changes
Only downfall to the m62 engine is the timing chain guides and that dumbass water cooled alternator, chain guide issue can be prevented by using synthetic oil and not keep the oil in there for 10k miles like a lot of people do.
I used the barsol headgasket seal and some Lucas oil leak seal about a month back. F150 223k. So far no water missing and no water showing up in oil. Drained out the Lucas out put in 5w20. Purrs like a Kitten again no clickity click. Barsol $28
The fuse 18 issue is your steering column. It really needs to be replaced however there is no aftermarket solution or upgraded column so your choices are a used one that will fail again or a new one from the dealer which is about $5 grand. Astral Auto Repair has a video on how to disable this steering column lock on the 03 - 05 Range Rover for free which simply bypasses the key lock feature. Land Rover was never able to get it right despite redesigning the column every .2-3 years. Finally, in '09 they got rid of it entirely as they realized no other cars have them and it would be just fine. The video is by Astral Auto Repair.
I tried that astral auto repair deal on mine..its not an exactly accurate fix and its a confusing video, I like to see him or another person re-do one on that topic.
I maybe wrong ..there's a possibility you might be blowing oil lines not only because there old, but if the head gasket is blown as bad as it looking it could be building pressure in the block . I don't think the car is dead yet as long as you dont blow a ring {if it is indeed building pressure in the block}.
Great video, but you drive me crazy with how you pour fluids from the bottles. You're spilling them everywhere! Here's some tips: 1) pour small bottles slowly. Allow an air gap at the mouth of the bottle for air to return into the bottle. 2) larger bottles for oil, coolant, etc., mostly gallon size or 5-quart size oil bottles, are designed to pour from the side. Regardless, pour gently so you don't lose that air gap at the mouth of the bottle. 3) quart bottles are designed to pour with the mouth up, closest to your hand. This is to allow for that important air gap so the oil does not slosh out as you pour it. In all cases, most bottles have little picture illustrations near the opening of the bottle to show how it is to be poured. You'll find that if you maintain that air exchange, the fluid will pour much faster and you have better control over how it aims for the filling ports. Additionally, you will rarely need a funnel ever again, if you learn to pour as I've described.
I had a Rover and the problems didn’t end with the mechanicals and electricals. It was even the emblems and logos that would just randomly fall off. I’ve seen old 40-50 year old cars at the junkyards that still have their emblems still on.
I’ve noticed 5-6 year old cars in parking lots with tarnished badging and think “Gee manufacturer, if you cut corners on things I can see, what’s going on behind the curtain?”
One more time and I'm calling it quits, okay one more time and I'm calling it quits, okay one more time and I'm calling it quits, okay almost there lol.
For god’s sake. The head gasket is blown and is pressurising both your coolant and lubricant systems beyond what they are meant to take. You’re just gonna keep chasing blown hoses as the systems finds the next weakest part. Either change the damn head gaskets or throw the car away.
You realize he bought this car as an example of car that seems like an amazing deal on the surface as he's often asked about such cars. He was very clear about that. So he's showing it's not and in the meantime is just trying to recoup the cost through ad revenue.
I gotta say, the headgasket sealer is poop. But let me tell you why its a great product. We use headgasket sealer before engine rebuild, after pouring headgasket sealer and taking the head off, its really easy to see where the crack/warp/damage is meaning it really helps to see what part needs repairing. No need to throw more money on skimming the block if its only fault of the head.
I believe the entire point of this project was to see if the sealers would work. That's why he is putting so little money in to it. We all know that sealers don't typically work, but it is nice for someone to do a real life test and see what it does.
I love that this guy is emotionally distant from wasting his investment. He's liberated to try anything. And he keeps getting closer to fixing the car because he can think clearly.
Who pays massive taxes? Just because the dollar amount they pay might be a big number, it's still proportionate to a percentage of there sales. So saying they pay massive taxes shows they make massive sales and means nothing more than that. And what do you mean they're employees take a big chunk of the money. NO they don't. In fact most of their employees don't own any stock in the company. They're merely employees working for hourly wages. So don't talk out of your ass! If the mechanic at the dealership gets paid $30/hour that only shows that the dealer makes $100/hour. They don't lose money, no repair garage ever loses money. So to say the parts prices are high because they pay massive taxes and because the employees take a big piece of the cake is just stupid.
@@roberts5118 ok........ here is the truth...... MANUFACTURERS CUT CORNERS..... they use substandard materials and a lot of components with limited life, and they are ENGINEERED TO FAIL.... why else would a manufacturer (citroen) need new brake discs in the first 30,000 miles of vehicle ownership, just in time for the first UK government check? why else would they use plastic fittings on engines in high temprature and high vibration areas? and ADD to that..... they then charge EXTORTIONATE prices on these parts that bear no relation to cost price to produce or ship.....JUST BECAUSE THEY CAN...... you're not telling me that brake disks that are made in the tens of thousands and maybe even more, are costing 50 quid each? thats bullshit, they are not paying that, if they pay a pound each at manufacture its an expensive part....... truth is they CHARGE WHAT THEY THINK THEY CAN GET AWAY WITH NOT A REASONABLE PRICE.
I think a lot of folks are missing the point here. I think everyone, or most at least, agree that the engine is toast. BUT........ Sam currently has 903k subscribers. These videos are bringing in some $$££, certainly enough to buy some bottles of assorted liquids. This way, we all get to see what the "snake oil" actually *does* to the block/radiator/heater matrix etc. Will it damage stuff? Quite probably but, in the meantime, these videos will have made enough to buy a replacement lump. So *we* get a thorough review of the "engine in a bottle" and see the results of using the stuff, the Range Rover gets a decent engine and.......... Sam gets a luxury SUV for $1400, plus some of his time. Kinda make sense to me.😄🥂👍 By the way Sam, great job with the sponsorship comedy ~ nicely done.😁 I wonder, did the Simply Safe sponsorship cover the cost of the oil? ...... of course it did.👍 You're not as daft as a lot of folks seem to think Sam and how many of them are approaching the *1,000,000* subscribers award? Keep 'em coming Sam and a very Merry Christmas to you and yours from Scotland.🥂🎅🍻🎅 HoHoHo Cheers for now, Dougie.
Plus, he has a vid sponsorship on just about ever vid he does. You’re right, doesn’t really matter if repairing the Rover is successful or not, as long is it creates content for the channel and that’s it’s entertaining which he usually is.
@@poiiihy Me too. A video series like this could be really useful to Sam's viewers. It will, quite probably, prove *something* about this type of "cheap fix". This is more relevant to the "average" DIYer than a complete engine swap on a Range Rover. It will be interesting to see how this turns out.😄 Will the next episode be sponsored by "Dr Desperate's Engine in a Bottle"? Merry Christmas to one and all,🥂🎅 Dougie.
He doesn't have a tiny coolant leak! He's spewing coolant out his tailpipe from a blown headgasket. A blown headgasket ISNT a coolant leak! It's 120lbs of compression leaking into the coolant system. A coolant leak is coolant leaking from hoses or connections with about 12-18lbs of pressure.
*Sam, this experiment is very exciting.* I have used Bar's head gasket sealer for years with a 90% success rate. There are a lot of pessimistic people out there that always call it a wasted off time. But in the worst case scenario it just doesn't work. Even Scotty kilmer recommends it if you are not willing to swap the engine or replace the head gasket. Great work and I can't wait to see the end result!
Call it quits....that engine is really bad ....either rebuild the motor ...or just find another with low miles. ..I usually use steel seal....works wonders ....but like I said that engine is done
I love how at 4:12 he was just pouring oil like f**k it if it spills, or blows up, definitely not typical Sam crac like to see him just keep on sending it
I had this exact V8 4.4 BMW M62 "TU" engine in my old 1999 E39 540i - It was a complete NIGHTMARE !! and used to eat MAF's and Coil packs all the time - Whilst the one I had never had head gasket problems it felt VERY underpowered for the claimed 286 brake horse power BMW said it was - I believe that this engine was also used in the BMW E38 740i (Very late model 1999-2001) the BMW X5 4.4i Some Morgan 8 cars and some Bentley cars as well as some of the 2003 - 2004 Range Rovers and Discovery models - Right, cheapest option to repair this Range Rover would be to find a BMW breaker and just buy a good used second hand BMW 4.4 M62 TU V8 engine, swap sumps with the bad engine (as the Range Rover sumps are aluminium and different to the pressed steel sumps BMW used for this version of engine they installed in their own cars) , Once the replacement engine is all fitted, plumbed and wired up it should then work again and you would then have a good Range Rover that doesn't piss oil and lose tones of power up hills !
I am an old motor tech in the Uk. In my day there are a range of products brand Holts, they have a product called Radweld I don’t care for it much as it can clog the rad. They do have a product called Wonder weld that is used for cracked heads and blocks also known it help with head gaskets. The secret where you have a leak between 2 cylinders is to run the engine with the spark plugs removed so now combustion pressure while the sealant attempts to do its job. I have seen water coming out of the plug hole and then stops as it reaches normal temp. Then refit spark plug but run with out coil pack for a few minutes then hopefully reconnect coil pack and all fixed. It is amazing as this sealant will leave a white deposit around flanges and hoses where there is no leak of normal coolant, but this mange’s to find its way out. Leave in the system after drain some out to add coolant additive ( we call it anti freeze over here) Hopefully you must have similar products I must have a look time I visit family in Florida.
I used something similar for an external headgasket leak (coolant was leaking outside the block via headgasket, not into cylinders or oil) and was bewildered that it actually worked, i watched the leak slow to nothing at all
Wow! I've rebuilt several engines and worked on a lot of cars in my day, but this saga takes the cake. Everytime I see a Range Rover from now on, I will not be at all impressed! Your personality makes the videos. Best!
@@JasonSmith-ns1bi This is *not* bad. It is a blown head gasket, no more. Quite common really, as every mechanic has come across one or two in his time. He is trying to prevent the cost of replacing the gasket. So far he has spent a fortune on all sorts of liquids. It would have been better, and quicker, to have replaced the head gasket *immediately.* BTW, that BMW engine is a decent engine. But I think this is an exercise to see if the head gasket seal liquid works.
@@Toby_the_Glen Where I live is crawling with Range Rovers, and has been for as long as I can remember. Not once have a I see one on a trailer or broken down at the side of the road. Up market Range Rovers, like all upmarket cars, need *servicing* at the correct intervals, using quality _fully synthetic_ oils and quality fuel. In short, look after them. Don't do it then this happens.
Well, the engine either get's totaled because of timing chain (which is rattling against the timing chain housing) rips aparts, or the engine throws a rod, or other stuff. The engine needs to be extracted, completely redone (flushing all sealant junk out, new gaskets, refinished heads, new chain, overhauled VANOS units, new Crankcase ventilation. In Parts around 2k or more, in labour about 2-3 depending how bad the engine is. Better solution: Buy a used good engine, replace there the chain and redo the vanos units, redo every seal, crankcase ventilation and stuff and you get a nice reliable engine (till the next timing chain need replacing or the automatic transmission fails).
Before replacing the starter, I'd try running it at a higher voltage (jump starting from a running vehicle). It won't fix the starter, but it might get the vehicle to start without replacing anything.
I used Red Devil Pour and Go and it worked well on my Diesel Isuzu NPR. I'm happy with the repair, but you HAVE to follow the directions. Start it cold, take over a minute to pour it in and then let it come to running temp for at least 15 minutes. Let it cool then drive easily for the next 5 miles. Bam. done. 95% of leak gone. I didn't have coolant in the oil or visa versa, but I've heard it works either way.
My idea of a quick fix is headgaskets, sanding heads and block surfaces, adding dura lube oil treatment for the scored bearings and run her.. Expensive fix-new or used engine. or complete rebuild. Take my advise. Buy a haynes manual, read it, roll up your sleeves and give her hell.
I hate to say it Sam, but very likely it isn't fixed. When you release the coolant pressure by opening the bleed screw or loosening the cap this stops the coolant pressurizing and forcing coolant into the cylinders. That is why it stopped blowing so much steam out the exhaust. On top of this, you need coolant pressure to force coolant with the sealer into the leaky head gasket. By removing the pressure you are also stopping the sealer from getting into the crack so it won't stop the leak anywhere near as well. One thing you can do as a hack is just drive it with the coolant pressure released (loose cap or open bleed screw). This will often reduce the amount of coolant getting into the engine enough to let you drive the basket case for often a surprisingly long distance (I've put 15,000k on a blown head gasket with the coolant cap loose and blowing bubbles the entire time). In hot weather it will probably overheat with the cap off, but you should be able to drive it in cool weather. Eventually the engine will fail, but likely not right away... You could try using the sealer again with the cooling system pressurized but I'd be amazed if it works with a leak as big as that. Your other option is to pull the cylinder heads, replace the gaskets, and reinstall them. The job is moderately time consuming, but not difficult. You can have the heads checked for flatness and planed if needed when off by a machine shop. There is another risk you need to be aware of and that is hydrolocking the engine and bending a connecting rod. This happens if too much coolant leaks into the cylinder when the engine is off. When you try to start it the coolant can't compress so a connecting rod bends. It typically takes a huge head gasket leak for this to happen, especially if you keep the coolant pressure low (loose cap). Good luck and Merry Christmas
Hey Sam an LS swap would be sick. I finally made the decision to swap a turbo 6.0 LS into the 1971 Buick GS stage one barnfind on my TH-cam channel. the original engine was long gone and I finally decided to just make it a monster
The problem is that all the computers are tied together. Computers like Air suspension ecm, HVAC, bcm, instrument cluster, ecm, abs, traction control, tcm, tccm and etc.
As a rover fan I know I wouldn’t touch a pre 2006 L322 but I love seeing you struggle through this. Hopefully the headgasket sealer solves one of its issues!
Catalyst_YT , 06 was the first year under Ford. Late 06 L322 has the Jaguar engine vs the BMW engine and and a fiber optic wiring system. Also better entertainment system with Bluetooth I think.
Paul Boobier I know what you’re saying. I already own a bmw e90. I do the work myself so it would be done by myself, and I’m supposedly working at a Range Rover mechanic shop next summer so I think I can take it on
@@peterday3253 Jay wouldn't even let him drive his McLaren. It was funny watching him sitting in the back seat while Jay drove him around the block. lol
You inspired me to try a can of mechanic in a can on my 2004 Land Rover Discovery with a bad head gasket. I wish they had an exhaust manifold sealer in a can. Lol. For me it’s worth it. If I can get it running for a little while I’d be a happy guy.
“Thank You!” Sam. I get lazy and shop other ppl to do basic maintenance I can do on my cars myself. Then I watch your videos and they slap me back into the reality of saving, getting a sense of accomplishment and confidence of knowing about my vehicles. ✌🏽❤️&😊
The price of Scrap metal is around $250 per ton, but I hear the ad revenue from TH-cam is on the rise with each person that watches you sink stop leak after stop leak in the enormous piece of crap
I used a similar product on my freelander 1.8 with a rover engine. They were well known for blowing head gaskets. It worked. Lasted 9 month then blew again. Replaced head gasket properly 2nd time. It's a quick but temporary fix.
OR, you could just deck the heads, and change the headgaskets. BMW V8’s are no harder to work on than anything else. Far easier than a modern OHC ford V8 IMO
Ben Zimmerman Honestly, I think BMW’s are some of the easiest modern cars to work on. Very little in the way of extraneous vacuum lines, everything is straightforward, and relatively easy to get to, etc. Why people are so terrified of doing a simple head gasket job is beyond me.
B K Oh I 100% agree. As I right this comment, I’m finishing up a head gasket job on my E30. And I’m 19 lol. Not scary or hard once you know what needs to be done!
@@bz1mm BS, that M62 engine is a beast/bitch to work on. Just the valve covers alone are very difficult at best. I'm speaking from experience, yes, I have done it and I will never do it again. Best to pull the engine out and do all the work then.
You know, looking around I see a motor for this car running about $2,000 in my area with about 100k miles on it. I'd yank that motor in a heartbeat since the body/interior is in such good shape.
Ive owned Rovers in the past, you almost need a full-time mechanic to move in with you to keep them running. Plus as the old saying goes, Why didn't the English make TV sets? Because they could not make them leak oil. Every English car Ive ever owned has leaked has leaked oil old or new. For those that think this guy is crazy for spending the money on this car, I would say maybe they are more envious. After all who is in the mood to drop a few grand into something that may or may not work ? One last note, I've tried the head gasket sealer before with no luck, The only good thing was the product had a satisfaction guarantee so I did get my money back. I do think the product can work under the right conditions. There are even some businesses that offer to perform this service for around 300 bucks which I have not tried yet but looking at Sams headache Id actually consider just to save time and energy. Everything else aside I think the videos are great, and the guys making money doing it so it cant be all that bad.
I used something like that on my head gasket leak, I drove over 100,000 more miles and it ran great, the only reason I had to stop driving was because the frame rotted but the truck ran great.
good to know; how big was the leak? was it as bad as this or was it just a case of having some steam coming out the exhaust (not water pouring) and having to top off coolant every other week or month?
@@poiiihy It wasn't too bad but i was recommended to by a garage to replace the head gasket, I thought a sealer might work so I went for it and it sealed within a few minutes and never leaked again.
I suspect a HG leak in my 04 Disco 2. Very common. No way I’m putting $3k into this engine. I may use this seal and save up for a whole new engine with top hat sleeves.
This is such a gut wrenching series... feel like you keep making strides, I get my hopes up and then another issue and another issue. Ups and downs...I laughed, I cried.
Head gasket seal might work for some time. But it is kind of a makeshift. The average cost for a Land Rover Discovery head gasket replacement is between $1,190 and $1,540. Labor costs are estimated between $1012 and $1278 while parts are priced between $178 and $262.
Replace the head gaskets and have them blow again after two days because the heads or deck is/are warped, then after week it throws a rod because the bearings are toast from running with severely contaminated oil. An engine like this is not worth putting effort in. If the leak wasn't as bad you could fix it, but a leak this severe usually means complete rebuild because all other parts of the engine are in bad condition as well.
On the cheap, flat surface+sandpaper=poor mans decking. I have done this on a 1.9 tdi head that slowly lost coolant from pressure escaping combustion chamber. It was my car, would not do this to anyone for money or free.
deWaardt The blocks almost NEVER need resurfacing; only the heads on these BMW V8’s. I speak from experience on this. You’re talking $150 or less to get the heads cut at a machine shop, and a couple hundred in gaskets, bolts, and incidentals. Shops tax you based on the BRAND. I work on BMW’s, I’m not speculating
Pre-mortem sequence of events: Some part of the (FAR TOO MUCH) plastic cooling system began to fail - likely the pressurized cap. It was a snowball effect then, the drop in pressure allowed steam pockets to form in the heads' cooling jackets, the steam eroded the gasket causing a vicious circle of destruction.
L.O.L. Really ???? How old are you, and how much experience with engines do you have ?? That's the same bullshit I was told when I suspected a blown head gasket or head from no less than THREE alleged, trained mechanics. L.O.L. First it was the radiators fault, then it was the thermatic fan, then it was the LPG injection, of course each one cost me big dollars to discover there was NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM, but to satisfy the ALLEGED mechanics, I had them checked out. The LPG injections system was the last straw, I told him to stop stuffing around and pull the bloody head off. I get phone call to come down and check out the head. LO and Behold, three bloody cracks in the head, so my not trained mechanical eye/experience was dead right from the get go. I discovered there are mechanics and there are people who claim to be mechanics. I gave the go ahead to replace the head with a new one specifying it must be a NISSAN head, I don't care the cost. A week later I get the car back, going great, go away for a few days and notice the temp gauge rising on the way home. Take car back, mechanic can't work out what the problem is, suggests the radiator is past it's use by date, despite the fact it was just cleaned out and given the all clear. Replaced radiator with larger radiator. Went away again and on arrival at destination, noticed car sounded like a V8. Sound got worse over duration, had to nurse car back home,. back to mechanic, head has dropped a valve I tell him. No way, he sez, the valve clearance has changed he sez. I sez, how can that happen when there are discs for valve clearance, the gap is impossible to change. He insists valve clearance changed and new discs will need to be ordered. Disc arrive and he cant fit them, no space. I tell him an old bush mechanic had looked at the car on my way home, he told me a valve or even two had dropped and were nor closing thus the sound. He also said it could be verified by placing hand on exhaust pipe and if hand is SUCKED in, clearly demonstrates valves are still open on downward stroke. Head had to come off, found no less than TWO valve guides had dropped, thereby preventing valves from closing. Very lucky pistons did not connect with valves. Sent head off to specialist to look at, who came up with the bright idea the head had been overheated. No shit sherlock. Therefore warranty void. After much heated discussion, turns out replacement head was not NISSAN head as I stipulated, but cheap Chinese knock off. I had searched the Net before hand, and was aware there was an issue with these heads of over heating due to inappropiate casting around the valves, and here was the evidence right in front of my eyes. I called him a bloody ignorant idiot and he could sue me for the money I owed him for his stuff up. Sold the car and never went back. But the whole experience leaves me cold. I went thru FIVE mechanics and they all had the same attitude, thought they knew it all, when they didn't know shit from shenola.
I just put barsleak head gasket fix in my wife's blazer 4.3 the coolant was going in the oil & it stopped the leak ,200,000 mi,s on it & still runs like new very satisfied so far !!!
I went to visit my sister in upstate Virginia, from Orlando Florida driving my mazda pickup truck. Discovered once I was up there the had gasket was blown. Put in the head gasket sealer, made it as far as Jacksonville FL, had to get towed back to Orlando. Replaced the head gasket and ran for another couple years until the transmission went. Had the same issue in my next car a Chevy Corsica (200K miles). It lasted another 10K miles or so until I was able to get another car.
Fu Dog Whisperer I had a fleet of Corsicas back in the day and only had one lemon out of around fifteen. Basic maintenance always got me 200k miles out of them (except the lemon of course).
I never thought i would read a comment about a corsica nowadays i had a 1995 corsica back in 07 i loved that car i nicknamed it the greatest piece of shit i ever owned 😂😂😂👍👍
I think you are right; that sealer stuff is trying to work. I'm the guy who sealed a NorthStar in my dad's Caddy. If that could seal a NorthStar up, it's worth a shot, in my book. I would be up on it, judging from what we're seeing on the video. Like you said, you are doing an experiment to see if there's any truth to these bottle fix-it things!!! I'd say it does work. Hey, best of luck to ya!!!
For the record - the “oil on the spark plug” was on the COIL side of the plug - it’s not from a leaky head gasket. It’s from the inner valve cover gasket (the gasket around the inner perimeter where the coils sit) leaking oil into the plug wells. This is a very common issue. Nothing to do with a head gasket.
The best ever made is KW block seal. I watched a 6" long crack in a block seal up in 15 minutes and my cousin drove it for 10 years and sold it running still! It never leaked again, truly amazing.
Great work! I can't wait for the next update vlog... I'm feeling optimistic that you will drive it off the trailer soon. As a RR owner, these things can be a PAIN to maintain from SUSPF to endless electronic/mechanical issues. But when it runs, and the air ride works like it should, it's the best drive you'd ever have as it feels like floating on clouds. That feeling is so addictive, which keeps one returning to the Rover - lol. Good luck on the repairs...
The product he's using, when the directions are followed, doesn't seem to clog anything up. It's not like the brown goop that they sold 20 years ago. Been running 40k miles now with it in one car and had no issues I can blame on it. The little flakes remained in the coolant, and don't seem to be attaching themselves to any of surfaces inside. I think the metal flakes are designed only to adhere and melt when heated well above the normal 180 deg water temp.
Doesn't fix anything trust me! I used quite a few on a 2012 malibu to avoid replacing my water pump and gasket leak problem. It ended up clogging my heater core and i had to flushnit like 6 times to get it all out of the system.
@canuckguy worried ...Especially on a newer/prestige vehicle.. I have managed (in the UK) to plug a small weep coming through a porous aluminium 'head and causing bubbles in the coolant, with a product called K-Seal. Surprisingly it has worked for the last few thousand miles (which has given me some breathing space to drop the spare engine in in better weather..)
@@TonytheYorkie If you expected ANY leak stop to fix a water pump you fundamentally do not understand how any of these products work, nor how the water pump works. Not sure why you would use "quite a few" on a leak that it is meant to fix. the low cost 'brown sludge' ones are trash, and in any case are intended to be flushed out after the leak is sealed. the good ones like the one sam used here only need one bottle on any leak they will be able to fik, and if it doesn't stop the leak they send your money back if you actually get the thing fixed properly at a shop. If you need more than one bottle of a quality leak stop, you have problems bigger than it is designed to fix. If you have a leaky water pump, the seals are shot and no amount of any product will fix them as a spinning shaft will remove any new seal formed by the leak stop. get a new pump next time.
I had a blown head gasket on my bmw 325i . Used k and w block sealer as can said to do and it worked. Top radiator hose had blow off one day and ran hot melting block sealer. Added block sealer again and it refixed it. Drove it until I sold it and the guy never came back and complained. In your case Sam you might have a cracked head that sealer is hard to fix. You have to be careful adding to much it can stop up your heater core.
I used a coolant additive to seal a broken head gasket on a 4 cylinder car, it worked for years. Originally when starting this cold 4 cylinder car with a broken head gasket, the car smoke screened like a 007 Car. The car never dripped coolant out the exhaust, but smoked and used coolant. Yeah it worked great, no more smoking until I drained the coolant years later due to a water pump replacement … Just repeat the treatment again. I do a head gasket check on other vehicles by shutting down a hot engine, and observe any air bubbles flowing back to the coolant reservoir. Good luck, and keep putting life back into those older vehicles.
Coolant will damage the main bearings and cylinder walls as it displaces the oil. I would not drive the car any distance or rely on this car even if you do get it going. Merry Christmas. and good luck.
Technically you are right, but if you drain that oil and take the pan off and flush it a couple of times, it'll work just fine with new oil in. We've had tons of tractors with blown head gaskets who made the oil look almost milky white, just pulled the head off, replaced the gasked, head back on, flushed the oil out, washed the pan, put in some higher viscosity oil in (so we are extra safe), tractors still run to this day at full power.
also if the head gasket stop leak has sodium silicate (idk of any that doesn't) it will also damage the engine if leaked into the oil as sodium silicate is exactly what they used to destroy engines by pouring into the crankcase.
I own a Land Rover Discovery 1, with the original 4.6 Rover V8 (Buick motor). I'll agree as time passed on LR was completely lost on what the truck used to mean. Getting you across the toughest terrain imaginable. It just didn't seem to care, short of the Defender, LR became street jewelry with no substance. With that said, I love my Disco, and the Rover V8 is pretty stout once you upgrade a few things. The trans case, axles, rest of the drive train is a tank. The electronics are finicky but most of the time it's due to negligence. Sam, thanks for this dude, love this saga and genuinely look forward to future updates on the RR.
water backing up from reservoir indicates a stuck thermostat. Use quart of liquid glass aka water glass with only water added in the cooling system, and leave the heater off when warming it up enough for it to work, you want all the heat in the engine during the sealing. All these problems reminds me of an engine that had an crankcase explosion due to fuel fumes built up in it and no draft or vacuum cycling it out and fresh air into the crack case. The starter may only need a contact kit. I used to turn the contact 180 degree out so the contact plate that the bendix which engages the flywheel and then hits the contact, usually burning it into a half moon look, it would work again, till I could buy and install the contact kit.
If you want this SH1T to work you need to isolate the cylinder that is pumping exhaust gasses through the leak into the coolant jacket by taking out the spark plug. Then you can run it with the coolant cap on. If you lose to much water, extend the coolant bottle opening with a pipe or cut the bottom off a plastic water cooler bottle and connect it upside down so you can keep water head on it and add more as it runs, it helps stop it splashing out on the floor as well. Test the rig before adding the product. The leak fixer needs to flow into the breech , not be pushed out the way by the cylinder compression going in the opposite direction. You must also consider it may not be the head gasket, you may have a crack in the casting.
A couple of things, vapors coming out of the exhaust are steam not smoke. If you try pouring oil, or coolant out of gallon container from the side, it won’t glub glub.
Merry Christmas to all and have a SAFE New Year! simplisafe.com/samcrac
Samcrac you as well Sam be safe and stay warm
Merry Christmas Sam!! Thanks for all the great videos and hope for many more to come! :)
Your adverts are ingenious and entertaining, Sam. (And I hate adverts.) Madison Avenue's loss is our gain.
I don't know if I'm here to watch the Grinch or the auto repair. BOTH!
Take a road trip on that thing see how far it goes till it blows
The best fix i found for my range rover was the craigslist guy that bought it from me ever since then all my problems went away!
Stop buyin 20 year old junks lol
Lucky for that guy.
🤣🤣🤣
Sam should learn from you !
I like that he hasn’t bothered to pull it off the trailer
People making fun of samCrac for buying a 1140$ junk. Well 2.5million views for BSing about 1140$ junk, this guy is genius!
@Greg Souza u mean german engineering?
@Greg Souza A RANGE rover with a BMW engine. Woops.
Greg Souza yup, don’t forget about all the promotions he does for other companies. He gets paid !
Would ya have bought a 4runner?
BWHHHHHHHHAAAAA!
I’m still sitting on a 2005 Range Rover with RECENTLY REPAIRED VALVE COVER GASKETS and only 150k on the engine. We should TALK PART SWAP! Would somebody get the word to SAMCRAC please?!?
Trying to save money is frequently the most expensive option.
I hate ads but appreciate the creativity and ad setups of samcrac
Chris Cc that’s how he gets paid and is able to make this content.
And people act like Northstars are the worst ever. This engine is known for this, but BMW gets a pass.
The M62 is most definitely NOT known to overheat or blow gaskets ... It's a great engine that will do stellar mileage requiring little other than oil changes
@@alfamaniacs these are not great engines or cars. From personal experience, I pity those who buy these cars used.
Only downfall to the m62 engine is the timing chain guides and that dumbass water cooled alternator, chain guide issue can be prevented by using synthetic oil and not keep the oil in there for 10k miles like a lot of people do.
If you fix the head gasket issue and install a new head bolt kit, Northstars are actually great engines for normal driving.
@Don Olypopper
1 of the sh*t engines they made
It's no N55 w 75k on the clock and 7 years under the best
I used the barsol headgasket seal and some Lucas oil leak seal about a month back. F150 223k. So far no water missing and no water showing up in oil. Drained out the Lucas out put in 5w20. Purrs like a Kitten again no clickity click. Barsol $28
That Range just wanna die..."its screaming just let me die"
🤣🤣🤣🤣
don't do it - FIX IT!
My RR classic still runs just fine, built in 1989. But I did use actual head gaskets when they rotted out, 10 years ago.
leave it in a sketchy neighborhood with the keys on the seat.
Then call your insurance company.
Ima Pseudonym 😂👍🏾😂
Drive it in to a local pond and see if it floats...!! Merry Christmas and Seasons Greetings..!!
The fuse 18 issue is your steering column. It really needs to be replaced however there is no aftermarket solution or upgraded column so your choices are a used one that will fail again or a new one from the dealer which is about $5 grand. Astral Auto Repair has a video on how to disable this steering column lock on the 03 - 05 Range Rover for free which simply bypasses the key lock feature. Land Rover was never able to get it right despite redesigning the column every .2-3 years. Finally, in '09 they got rid of it entirely as they realized no other cars have them and it would be just fine. The video is by Astral Auto Repair.
So those steering columns had a 100% failure rate? I'm trying to learn so that I don't make this mistake.
@@DucatiPaso750 what to learn is: don't buy a used range rover lol
You could remove the fuse, solder in a remote switch and every time you turn off the car, flip the switch off and on.....
I tried that astral auto repair deal on mine..its not an exactly accurate fix and its a confusing video, I like to see him or another person re-do one on that topic.
what part of the steering column fails? wouldn't there be a way to fix the actual problem in the steering column instead of replacing it entirely?
"This time for sure" is the unofficial Range Rover owners' motto. Hope springs eternal!
Lol so true
DIYDad You literally made me Lol! Truth!
I maybe wrong ..there's a possibility you might be blowing oil lines not only because there old, but if the head gasket is blown as bad as it looking it could be building pressure in the block . I don't think the car is dead yet as long as you dont blow a ring {if it is indeed building pressure in the block}.
I'd buy this as a camp car. I'd park it out in the yard and stay in it when my girl starts acting up.
Brilliant
If you had nuts, she’d be the one sleeping in the car, or better yet, sleeping at her new apartment
@@BlockchainToTheFace true that
Lol currently sitting in my camp truck.... Coziest best place ever...edit:o yeah it has bad head too
1993 conversation van.
Great video, but you drive me crazy with how you pour fluids from the bottles. You're spilling them everywhere! Here's some tips: 1) pour small bottles slowly. Allow an air gap at the mouth of the bottle for air to return into the bottle. 2) larger bottles for oil, coolant, etc., mostly gallon size or 5-quart size oil bottles, are designed to pour from the side. Regardless, pour gently so you don't lose that air gap at the mouth of the bottle. 3) quart bottles are designed to pour with the mouth up, closest to your hand. This is to allow for that important air gap so the oil does not slosh out as you pour it. In all cases, most bottles have little picture illustrations near the opening of the bottle to show how it is to be poured. You'll find that if you maintain that air exchange, the fluid will pour much faster and you have better control over how it aims for the filling ports. Additionally, you will rarely need a funnel ever again, if you learn to pour as I've described.
Okay, you got the ad revenue now, when's the LS swap happening?
Putting in a LS motor would probably be cheaper than all the fluids he poured into that Range Rover.
Lol hey that was my idea.. Thanks!
If you have followed some of the jobs Sam tackles, then you know we will all see that Rover fixed unless a unique offer comes his way.
@@charlesmcgehee3227 Pray tell, who in their right minds would even buy a Range Rover second hand ???????
@@itchyvet TH-cam content creators and wannabe ballers
Just don't get the 'car wizard' to do it!
For those who think I should "pull the heads" and repair it, why would you go through the trouble on a 220k mile engine??? Tell me 👇👇👇
If it has (haven't watched all videos) almost all extras, and doesn't have too much rust, why not?
If it was my family car yes.... if its to flip..... then no.
Content
Not worth it. Find a low mile used one!
It'll make great content. You already went through all this trouble why not keep it going till it's fixed. I'd like to see it
I've never seen that stuff work on even the most minor head gasket leak.
Mom had a 6 cylinder nova the green running out exhaust ran 2yrs till trans went after Barrs sealer
Subaru coolant conditioner, industry secret
I think if you wound down one of the windows you could then put a wooden ramp upto it
it would then work realy well as a chicken coup
Na 🐇 hutch 😂
Upsale😏
a chicken coup would be when your neighbor's chickens invade your farm and kick out *your* chickens ... that actually might be more of a "coup d'etat"
I had a Rover and the problems didn’t end with the mechanicals and electricals. It was even the emblems and logos that would just randomly fall off. I’ve seen old 40-50 year old cars at the junkyards that still have their emblems still on.
Doan Trinh 3m double sided tape.
I’ve noticed 5-6 year old cars in parking lots with tarnished badging and think “Gee manufacturer, if you cut corners on things I can see, what’s going on behind the curtain?”
canuckguy worried I have some Britt friends. I’m going to screenshot this for them. Lol.
canuckguy worried Merry Christmas to you too bro!
Range Rover "Please just let me die in peace!"
Sam "ohh hells no"
One more time and I'm calling it quits, okay one more time and I'm calling it quits, okay one more time and I'm calling it quits, okay almost there lol.
For god’s sake. The head gasket is blown and is pressurising both your coolant and lubricant systems beyond what they are meant to take. You’re just gonna keep chasing blown hoses as the systems finds the next weakest part. Either change the damn head gaskets or throw the car away.
I agree with you 100% !
I cannot watch n e more its making my eyes bleed !
People. We all know the head gasket is blown. He knows that. The point of this was to see how well (if at all) store bought sealers work.
Agreed this is getting painful to watch now
Matthew Twigg why would he want to lose revenue ?
You realize he bought this car as an example of car that seems like an amazing deal on the surface as he's often asked about such cars. He was very clear about that. So he's showing it's not and in the meantime is just trying to recoup the cost through ad revenue.
Just a tip on pouring oil, hold the bottle so you have the spout at the top or at least the side and it won't glug like that making it easier to pour
Pours head gasket repair:
Heater core: “ight imma head out”
If this ain't the fuckin truth
ahhh man this had me rolling!
lmfao
😄👍🏾
Dude, this is the most underrated comment I have ever seen.. hilarious
"When you're going through hell, keep going" Winston Churchill, on Range Rover repair.
I gotta say, the headgasket sealer is poop. But let me tell you why its a great product. We use headgasket sealer before engine rebuild, after pouring headgasket sealer and taking the head off, its really easy to see where the crack/warp/damage is meaning it really helps to see what part needs repairing. No need to throw more money on skimming the block if its only fault of the head.
damn that's a good idea. i learn so much from the comment section of these videos.
I believe the entire point of this project was to see if the sealers would work. That's why he is putting so little money in to it. We all know that sealers don't typically work, but it is nice for someone to do a real life test and see what it does.
I just used it myself and it worked fine so stfu
@@HitManTPanda Go to a mechanic tell him that and he will slap you across your face.
Yeah lets just have all those chemicals leak straight into a field. Poor cows.
I love that this guy is emotionally distant from wasting his investment. He's liberated to try anything. And he keeps getting closer to fixing the car because he can think clearly.
150 for a rubber hose? no wonder they call it a stearlership......thats no more than 10 at the worst.
They pay massive taxes and employees are like also like owners taking a big chunk of. the cake
Just use Honey?
That's what aftermarket parts are for. Sometimes better quality than OEM too.
Who pays massive taxes? Just because the dollar amount they pay might be a big number, it's still proportionate to a percentage of there sales. So saying they pay massive taxes shows they make massive sales and means nothing more than that. And what do you mean they're employees take a big chunk of the money. NO they don't. In fact most of their employees don't own any stock in the company. They're merely employees working for hourly wages. So don't talk out of your ass! If the mechanic at the dealership gets paid $30/hour that only shows that the dealer makes $100/hour. They don't lose money, no repair garage ever loses money. So to say the parts prices are high because they pay massive taxes and because the employees take a big piece of the cake is just stupid.
@@roberts5118 ok........ here is the truth...... MANUFACTURERS CUT CORNERS..... they use substandard materials and a lot of components with limited life, and they are ENGINEERED TO FAIL.... why else would a manufacturer (citroen) need new brake discs in the first 30,000 miles of vehicle ownership, just in time for the first UK government check? why else would they use plastic fittings on engines in high temprature and high vibration areas? and ADD to that..... they then charge EXTORTIONATE prices on these parts that bear no relation to cost price to produce or ship.....JUST BECAUSE THEY CAN...... you're not telling me that brake disks that are made in the tens of thousands and maybe even more, are costing 50 quid each? thats bullshit, they are not paying that, if they pay a pound each at manufacture its an expensive part....... truth is they CHARGE WHAT THEY THINK THEY CAN GET AWAY WITH NOT A REASONABLE PRICE.
That's gotta be the first time I've actually enjoyed and not been offended by an ad. Impressive.
I think a lot of folks are missing the point here. I think everyone, or most at least, agree that the engine is toast. BUT........
Sam currently has 903k subscribers. These videos are bringing in some $$££, certainly enough to buy some bottles of assorted liquids. This way, we all get to see what the "snake oil" actually *does* to the block/radiator/heater matrix etc.
Will it damage stuff? Quite probably but, in the meantime, these videos will have made enough to buy a replacement lump. So *we* get a thorough review of the "engine in a bottle" and see the results of using the stuff, the Range Rover gets a decent engine and.......... Sam gets a luxury SUV for $1400, plus some of his time. Kinda make sense to me.😄🥂👍
By the way Sam, great job with the sponsorship comedy ~ nicely done.😁
I wonder, did the Simply Safe sponsorship cover the cost of the oil? ...... of course it did.👍
You're not as daft as a lot of folks seem to think Sam and how many of them are approaching the *1,000,000* subscribers award? Keep 'em coming Sam and a very Merry Christmas to you and yours from Scotland.🥂🎅🍻🎅 HoHoHo
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
He will sell it with his jerry-rigged repair and let someone else take care of the problem at a later date.
Plus, he has a vid sponsorship on just about ever vid he does.
You’re right, doesn’t really matter if repairing the Rover is successful or not, as long is it creates content for the channel and that’s it’s entertaining which he usually is.
@@mouser485 P R E C I S E L Y ! ! 👍
I find easy and cheap repairs like this entertaining
@@poiiihy Me too. A video series like this could be really useful to Sam's viewers. It will, quite probably, prove *something* about this type of "cheap fix". This is more relevant to the "average" DIYer than a complete engine swap on a Range Rover. It will be interesting to see how this turns out.😄
Will the next episode be sponsored by "Dr Desperate's Engine in a Bottle"?
Merry Christmas to one and all,🥂🎅
Dougie.
For tiny coolant leaks use pepper or GMC sells tabs of crushed walnuts that dissolve in your radiator. This works I've used both
He doesn't have a tiny coolant leak! He's spewing coolant out his tailpipe from a blown headgasket. A blown headgasket ISNT a coolant leak! It's 120lbs of compression leaking into the coolant system. A coolant leak is coolant leaking from hoses or connections with about 12-18lbs of pressure.
Samcrac is the only TH-camr that can make ads funny and entertaining. Love you Sam!
Without the ads there wouldn't be a lot worth watching
*Sam, this experiment is very exciting.* I have used Bar's head gasket sealer for years with a 90% success rate. There are a lot of pessimistic people out there that always call it a wasted off time. But in the worst case scenario it just doesn't work. Even Scotty kilmer recommends it if you are not willing to swap the engine or replace the head gasket.
Great work and I can't wait to see the end result!
Call it quits....that engine is really bad ....either rebuild the motor ...or just find another with low miles. ..I usually use steel seal....works wonders ....but like I said that engine is done
I love how at 4:12 he was just pouring oil like f**k it if it spills, or blows up, definitely not typical Sam crac like to see him just keep on sending it
I had this exact V8 4.4 BMW M62 "TU" engine in my old 1999 E39 540i - It was a complete NIGHTMARE !! and used to eat MAF's and Coil packs all the time - Whilst the one I had never had head gasket problems it felt VERY underpowered for the claimed 286 brake horse power BMW said it was - I believe that this engine was also used in the BMW E38 740i (Very late model 1999-2001) the BMW X5 4.4i Some Morgan 8 cars and some Bentley cars as well as some of the 2003 - 2004 Range Rovers and Discovery models - Right, cheapest option to repair this Range Rover would be to find a BMW breaker and just buy a good used second hand BMW 4.4 M62 TU V8 engine, swap sumps with the bad engine (as the Range Rover sumps are aluminium and different to the pressed steel sumps BMW used for this version of engine they installed in their own cars) , Once the replacement engine is all fitted, plumbed and wired up it should then work again and you would then have a good Range Rover that doesn't piss oil and lose tones of power up hills !
I am an old motor tech in the Uk. In my day there are a range of products brand Holts, they have a product called Radweld I don’t care for it much as it can clog the rad. They do have a product called Wonder weld that is used for cracked heads and blocks also known it help with head gaskets.
The secret where you have a leak between 2 cylinders is to run the engine with the spark plugs removed so now combustion pressure while the sealant attempts to do its job. I have seen water coming out of the plug hole and then stops as it reaches normal temp. Then refit spark plug but run with out coil pack for a few minutes then hopefully reconnect coil pack and all fixed.
It is amazing as this sealant will leave a white deposit around flanges and hoses where there is no leak of normal coolant, but this mange’s to find its way out. Leave in the system after drain some out to add coolant additive ( we call it anti freeze over here)
Hopefully you must have similar products I must have a look time I visit family in Florida.
"...I don't think it's worth fixing this car." I'm pretty sure everyone else came to that conclusion before you bought it. lol
The cost of a new head gasket is not that great. Well worth doing.
I used something similar for an external headgasket leak (coolant was leaking outside the block via headgasket, not into cylinders or oil) and was bewildered that it actually worked, i watched the leak slow to nothing at all
wow nice
Wish I had it. Two days perhaps, I'd have new head gaskets on etc and be cruising down the HWY.
Don't forget the two days of cleaning all that junk out of cooling system!
Exactly
@Bill Williams That is why you sell it immediately!
A friend of mine actually done a LS swap in his Range.... It runs good as hell
This range rover has put me off for life
Wow! I've rebuilt several engines and worked on a lot of cars in my day, but this saga takes the cake. Everytime I see a Range Rover from now on, I will not be at all impressed! Your personality makes the videos. Best!
What is so frightening about a blown head gasket in a BMW engine? BTW, that BMW engine is much superior to most American engines of that era.
If you think this is bad, do a search for Doug DeMuro, Range Rover...
@@JasonSmith-ns1bi
This is *not* bad. It is a blown head gasket, no more. Quite common really, as every mechanic has come across one or two in his time. He is trying to prevent the cost of replacing the gasket. So far he has spent a fortune on all sorts of liquids. It would have been better, and quicker, to have replaced the head gasket *immediately.* BTW, that BMW engine is a decent engine.
But I think this is an exercise to see if the head gasket seal liquid works.
What on earth do you guys do to cars over there? I bet the poor thing has never been serviced or had an oil change. Although Hoovie usually buys those
@@Toby_the_Glen
Where I live is crawling with Range Rovers, and has been for as long as I can remember. Not once have a I see one on a trailer or broken down at the side of the road.
Up market Range Rovers, like all upmarket cars, need *servicing* at the correct intervals, using quality _fully synthetic_ oils and quality fuel. In short, look after them. Don't do it then this happens.
Loving this project Sam.
Can't understand why people keep moaning! Yeah it's a junk engine but why not see how far cheap fixes can go?
Usually not very far.
Well, the engine either get's totaled because of timing chain (which is rattling against the timing chain housing) rips aparts, or the engine throws a rod, or other stuff.
The engine needs to be extracted, completely redone (flushing all sealant junk out, new gaskets, refinished heads, new chain, overhauled VANOS units, new Crankcase ventilation.
In Parts around 2k or more, in labour about 2-3 depending how bad the engine is. Better solution: Buy a used good engine, replace there the chain and redo the vanos units, redo every seal, crankcase ventilation and stuff and you get a nice reliable engine (till the next timing chain need replacing or the automatic transmission fails).
He would be a bit of a scum bag if he tried to sell this car.
@@tedeby5351 He would be a huge scumbag if he tried to sell this car.
johnsav: you sound like a prime candidate to buy some engine rebuild in a can
Definitely needs an ls swap...
vTuned garage lol yes🤘 I finally made the decision to swap my broken 71 Buick GS barn finds on my channel with a 6.0 LS with 799 heads
you should sam lol
Before replacing the starter, I'd try running it at a higher voltage (jump starting from a running vehicle). It won't fix the starter, but it might get the vehicle to start without replacing anything.
I used Red Devil Pour and Go and it worked well on my Diesel Isuzu NPR. I'm happy with the repair, but you HAVE to follow the directions. Start it cold, take over a minute to pour it in and then let it come to running temp for at least 15 minutes. Let it cool then drive easily for the next 5 miles. Bam. done. 95% of leak gone. I didn't have coolant in the oil or visa versa, but I've heard it works either way.
Good way to clog up your radiator and heater core by dumping that crap in.
My idea of a quick fix is headgaskets, sanding heads and block surfaces, adding dura lube oil treatment for the scored bearings and run her.. Expensive fix-new or used engine. or complete rebuild. Take my advise. Buy a haynes manual, read it, roll up your sleeves and give her hell.
The range rover lives to see another day!
Another 'lemon' car his wife will be driving!
I hate to say it Sam, but very likely it isn't fixed. When you release the coolant pressure by opening the bleed screw or loosening the cap this stops the coolant pressurizing and forcing coolant into the cylinders. That is why it stopped blowing so much steam out the exhaust.
On top of this, you need coolant pressure to force coolant with the sealer into the leaky head gasket. By removing the pressure you are also stopping the sealer from getting into the crack so it won't stop the leak anywhere near as well.
One thing you can do as a hack is just drive it with the coolant pressure released (loose cap or open bleed screw). This will often reduce the amount of coolant getting into the engine enough to let you drive the basket case for often a surprisingly long distance (I've put 15,000k on a blown head gasket with the coolant cap loose and blowing bubbles the entire time). In hot weather it will probably overheat with the cap off, but you should be able to drive it in cool weather. Eventually the engine will fail, but likely not right away...
You could try using the sealer again with the cooling system pressurized but I'd be amazed if it works with a leak as big as that.
Your other option is to pull the cylinder heads, replace the gaskets, and reinstall them. The job is moderately time consuming, but not difficult. You can have the heads checked for flatness and planed if needed when off by a machine shop.
There is another risk you need to be aware of and that is hydrolocking the engine and bending a connecting rod. This happens if too much coolant leaks into the cylinder when the engine is off. When you try to start it the coolant can't compress so a connecting rod bends. It typically takes a huge head gasket leak for this to happen, especially if you keep the coolant pressure low (loose cap).
Good luck and Merry Christmas
Sam, pulling into a service station: "Fill the oil and check the gas, please"
More like "Fill the oil and fill up the gas tank" every time you pull into a gas station. They aren't known as gas guzzlers for nothing!
Lmao
i need more #18 fuses... five to a box - gimme 20 boxes! i go to make it home.
Hey Sam an LS swap would be sick. I finally made the decision to swap a turbo 6.0 LS into the 1971 Buick GS stage one barnfind on my TH-cam channel. the original engine was long gone and I finally decided to just make it a monster
LunarOutlaw’s Garage , he can’t change a headlight bulb , let alone an Engine 😂😂😂😂😂
Gregg Butler lol have not watched the channel?
The problem is that all the computers are tied together. Computers like Air suspension ecm, HVAC, bcm, instrument cluster, ecm, abs, traction control, tcm, tccm and etc.
Zachary Solomon it can still be done 👍
As a rover fan I know I wouldn’t touch a pre 2006 L322 but I love seeing you struggle through this. Hopefully the headgasket sealer solves one of its issues!
What did they change in 2006 I’m looking at a 2006
Catalyst_YT , 06 was the first year under Ford. Late 06 L322 has the Jaguar engine vs the BMW engine and and a fiber optic wiring system. Also better entertainment system with Bluetooth I think.
Nick okay. I need to look into that car a bit more; see if it was late 2006
_fiber optic_ wiring system?????
Paul Boobier I know what you’re saying. I already own a bmw e90. I do the work myself so it would be done by myself, and I’m supposedly working at a Range Rover mechanic shop next summer so I think I can take it on
*Samcrac and Doug Demuro are long lost brothers.*
Doug Demuro is Jay Leno's love child.
@@peterday3253 Jay wouldn't even let him drive his McLaren. It was funny watching him sitting in the back seat while Jay drove him around the block. lol
Except, Doug DeMuro got his Range Rover with a "bumper to bumper warranty"
I have to increase the video speed for both because of their slow talking... 1.5x at least.
Samcrac and chrisfix maybe.
You inspired me to try a can of mechanic in a can on my 2004 Land Rover Discovery with a bad head gasket. I wish they had an exhaust manifold sealer in a can. Lol. For me it’s worth it. If I can get it running for a little while I’d be a happy guy.
3:15 yep she's done. No miracle in a can will fix that
“Thank You!” Sam. I get lazy and shop other ppl to do basic maintenance I can do on my cars myself. Then I watch your videos and they slap me back into the reality of saving, getting a sense of accomplishment and confidence of knowing about my vehicles.
✌🏽❤️&😊
The price of Scrap metal is around $250 per ton, but I hear the ad revenue from TH-cam is on the rise with each person that watches you sink stop leak after stop leak in the enormous piece of crap
Gotta be strange to be famous for this kind of garbage. Maybe he can't get a real job
Hey if I could pore stop leak in a piece of junk Range Rover and buy a Ferrari because of it he is a whole lot smarter than me and you
A while ago. Gone waaaay down. More like $60 a ton these days.
@@jackpalczynski7884 Yep, $55 over here. I wish it was $250.
Looks like Sam spent on oil more then this car cost him 😂
@6:51 One of Samcrac's friends getting high off of CO2 and enging sealant.
I used a similar product on my freelander 1.8 with a rover engine. They were well known for blowing head gaskets. It worked. Lasted 9 month then blew again. Replaced head gasket properly 2nd time. It's a quick but temporary fix.
your youtube fanbase is called famcrac
OR, you could just deck the heads, and change the headgaskets. BMW V8’s are no harder to work on than anything else. Far easier than a modern OHC ford V8 IMO
B K Definitely. I have the older brother to the M62 Sam is working on, the M60. Basically the same engine. These V8s are suuupper easy to work on.
Ben Zimmerman Honestly, I think BMW’s are some of the easiest modern cars to work on. Very little in the way of extraneous vacuum lines, everything is straightforward, and relatively easy to get to, etc. Why people are so terrified of doing a simple head gasket job is beyond me.
B K Oh I 100% agree. As I right this comment, I’m finishing up a head gasket job on my E30. And I’m 19 lol. Not scary or hard once you know what needs to be done!
@@bz1mm
BS, that M62 engine is a beast/bitch to work on. Just the valve covers alone are very difficult at best. I'm speaking from experience, yes, I have done it and I will never do it again. Best to pull the engine out and do all the work then.
Xavier Lemos was just about to say this. Maybe the m62 is easy in a bigger chassis but absolutely not easy to work on in the e39 5 series
You know, looking around I see a motor for this car running about $2,000 in my area with about 100k miles on it. I'd yank that motor in a heartbeat since the body/interior is in such good shape.
Yeah yank it and have the same issue SMH
Same engine same problems
this is the kind of guy who then sells you this car and says just needs tune up
You're the kind of rube that would buy it.
Seller: Samcrac
Never judge a book buy it’s cover.
Watch entire video.
Donating to charity = Tax right off = recouping some loss. Not judging the guy, I enjoy his channel.
Ive owned Rovers in the past, you almost need a full-time mechanic to move in with you to keep them running. Plus as the old saying goes, Why didn't the English make TV sets? Because they could not make them leak oil. Every English car Ive ever owned has leaked has leaked oil old or new. For those that think this guy is crazy for spending the money on this car, I would say maybe they are more envious. After all who is in the mood to drop a few grand into something that may or may not work ? One last note, I've tried the head gasket sealer before with no luck, The only good thing was the product had a satisfaction guarantee so I did get my money back. I do think the product can work under the right conditions. There are even some businesses that offer to perform this service for around 300 bucks which I have not tried yet but looking at Sams headache Id actually consider just to save time and energy. Everything else aside I think the videos are great, and the guys making money doing it so it cant be all that bad.
I used something like that on my head gasket leak, I drove over 100,000 more miles and it ran great, the only reason I had
to stop driving was because the frame rotted but the truck ran great.
good to know; how big was the leak? was it as bad as this or was it just a case of having some steam coming out the exhaust (not water pouring) and having to top off coolant every other week or month?
I put a sealer in my truck and drive about 100 miles a day. I put one in my honda and it's fine too.
@@poiiihy It wasn't too bad but i was recommended to by a garage to replace the head gasket, I thought a sealer might work so I went for it and it sealed within a few minutes and never leaked again.
tom thumb I used a similar product on my 98 Civic. Went another 50k miles before giving out with an unrelated problem.
I suspect a HG leak in my 04 Disco 2. Very common. No way I’m putting $3k into this engine. I may use this seal and save up for a whole new engine with top hat sleeves.
You’re a mean one, Mr. Crac
Pull he engine and either put a new one in or tear this one down and be done already.
Thats what an intelligent human being would've done already.
Yeah, it's not hard to replace the head gasket, just time consuming.
He just getting as many views as possible before sending it off. He knows this won’t work it way to bad. It on it last heart beat.
@@ratj4715 "heartbeat"? this is necromancy.
Noooo .... More Stop Leak .... More Stop Leak.
This is such a gut wrenching series... feel like you keep making strides, I get my hopes up and then another issue and another issue. Ups and downs...I laughed, I cried.
I was starting to think it’s a comedy series he is making to make us laugh lol
Head gasket seal might work for some time. But it is kind of a makeshift. The average cost for a Land Rover Discovery head gasket replacement is between $1,190 and $1,540. Labor costs are estimated between $1012 and $1278 while parts are priced between $178 and $262.
Replace the head gasket yourself and show us step by step.
Replace the head gaskets and have them blow again after two days because the heads or deck is/are warped, then after week it throws a rod because the bearings are toast from running with severely contaminated oil.
An engine like this is not worth putting effort in. If the leak wasn't as bad you could fix it, but a leak this severe usually means complete rebuild because all other parts of the engine are in bad condition as well.
it will be warped. needs a block and head.
He can't replace a head gasket he can only do minor repairs.
On the cheap, flat surface+sandpaper=poor mans decking. I have done this on a 1.9 tdi head that slowly lost coolant from pressure escaping combustion chamber. It was my car, would not do this to anyone for money or free.
deWaardt The blocks almost NEVER need resurfacing; only the heads on these BMW V8’s. I speak from experience on this. You’re talking $150 or less to get the heads cut at a machine shop, and a couple hundred in gaskets, bolts, and incidentals. Shops tax you based on the BRAND. I work on BMW’s, I’m not speculating
The lines keep blowing because the head gasket sealer is plugging up the system. It happened to me.
Pre-mortem sequence of events: Some part of the (FAR TOO MUCH) plastic cooling system began to fail - likely the pressurized cap. It was a snowball effect then, the drop in pressure allowed steam pockets to form in the heads' cooling jackets, the steam eroded the gasket causing a vicious circle of destruction.
L.O.L. Really ???? How old are you, and how much experience with engines do you have ?? That's the same bullshit I was told when I suspected a blown head gasket or head from no less than THREE alleged, trained mechanics. L.O.L. First it was the radiators fault, then it was the thermatic fan, then it was the LPG injection, of course each one cost me big dollars to discover there was NOTHING WRONG WITH THEM, but to satisfy the ALLEGED mechanics, I had them checked out. The LPG injections system was the last straw, I told him to stop stuffing around and pull the bloody head off. I get phone call to come down and check out the head. LO and Behold, three bloody cracks in the head, so my not trained mechanical eye/experience was dead right from the get go. I discovered there are mechanics and there are people who claim to be mechanics. I gave the go ahead to replace the head with a new one specifying it must be a NISSAN head, I don't care the cost. A week later I get the car back, going great, go away for a few days and notice the temp gauge rising on the way home. Take car back, mechanic can't work out what the problem is, suggests the radiator is past it's use by date, despite the fact it was just cleaned out and given the all clear. Replaced radiator with larger radiator. Went away again and on arrival at destination, noticed car sounded like a V8. Sound got worse over duration, had to nurse car back home,. back to mechanic, head has dropped a valve I tell him. No way, he sez, the valve clearance has changed he sez. I sez, how can that happen when there are discs for valve clearance, the gap is impossible to change. He insists valve clearance changed and new discs will need to be ordered. Disc arrive and he cant fit them, no space. I tell him an old bush mechanic had looked at the car on my way home, he told me a valve or even two had dropped and were nor closing thus the sound. He also said it could be verified by placing hand on exhaust pipe and if hand is SUCKED in, clearly demonstrates valves are still open on downward stroke. Head had to come off, found no less than TWO valve guides had dropped, thereby preventing valves from closing. Very lucky pistons did not connect with valves. Sent head off to specialist to look at, who came up with the bright idea the head had been overheated. No shit sherlock. Therefore warranty void. After much heated discussion, turns out replacement head was not NISSAN head as I stipulated, but cheap Chinese knock off. I had searched the Net before hand, and was aware there was an issue with these heads of over heating due to inappropiate casting around the valves, and here was the evidence right in front of my eyes. I called him a bloody ignorant idiot and he could sue me for the money I owed him for his stuff up. Sold the car and never went back.
But the whole experience leaves me cold. I went thru FIVE mechanics and they all had the same attitude, thought they knew it all, when they didn't know shit from shenola.
@@itchyvet Damn, son. Snowflake much?
I just put barsleak head gasket fix in my wife's blazer 4.3 the coolant was going in the oil & it stopped the leak ,200,000 mi,s on it & still runs like new very satisfied so far !!!
Fix in a can, temporarily covered up blown head in my daughters Altima long enough for us to buy it
I went to visit my sister in upstate Virginia, from Orlando Florida driving my mazda pickup truck. Discovered once I was up there the had gasket was blown. Put in the head gasket sealer, made it as far as Jacksonville FL, had to get towed back to Orlando. Replaced the head gasket and ran for another couple years until the transmission went. Had the same issue in my next car a Chevy Corsica (200K miles). It lasted another 10K miles or so until I was able to get another car.
Fu Dog Whisperer I had a fleet of Corsicas back in the day and only had one lemon out of around fifteen. Basic maintenance always got me 200k miles out of them (except the lemon of course).
I never thought i would read a comment about a corsica nowadays i had a 1995 corsica back in 07 i loved that car i nicknamed it the greatest piece of shit i ever owned 😂😂😂👍👍
I think you are right; that sealer stuff is trying to work. I'm the guy who sealed a NorthStar in my dad's Caddy. If that could seal a NorthStar up, it's worth a shot, in my book. I would be up on it, judging from what we're seeing on the video. Like you said, you are doing an experiment to see if there's any truth to these bottle fix-it things!!! I'd say it does work. Hey, best of luck to ya!!!
For the record - the “oil on the spark plug” was on the COIL side of the plug - it’s not from a leaky head gasket. It’s from the inner valve cover gasket (the gasket around the inner perimeter where the coils sit) leaking oil into the plug wells. This is a very common issue. Nothing to do with a head gasket.
The best ever made is KW block seal. I watched a 6" long crack in a block seal up in 15 minutes and my cousin drove it for 10 years and sold it running still! It never leaked again, truly amazing.
You should ALWAYS remove the Thermostat before filling with only water and stop leak saver
"it gets tighter and tighter and tighter and then when it finishes the stroke you'll feel it loosen up"
Samcrac 2019
Great work! I can't wait for the next update vlog... I'm feeling optimistic that you will drive it off the trailer soon. As a RR owner, these things can be a PAIN to maintain from SUSPF to endless electronic/mechanical issues. But when it runs, and the air ride works like it should, it's the best drive you'd ever have as it feels like floating on clouds. That feeling is so addictive, which keeps one returning to the Rover - lol. Good luck on the repairs...
I'm curious if that snake oil fixes the head but clogs up the radiator and heater......
The product he's using, when the directions are followed, doesn't seem to clog anything up. It's not like the brown goop that they sold 20 years ago. Been running 40k miles now with it in one car and had no issues I can blame on it. The little flakes remained in the coolant, and don't seem to be attaching themselves to any of surfaces inside.
I think the metal flakes are designed only to adhere and melt when heated well above the normal 180 deg water temp.
Doesn't fix anything trust me! I used quite a few on a 2012 malibu to avoid replacing my water pump and gasket leak problem. It ended up clogging my heater core and i had to flushnit like 6 times to get it all out of the system.
@canuckguy worried ...Especially on a newer/prestige vehicle..
I have managed (in the UK) to plug a small weep coming through a porous aluminium 'head and causing bubbles in the coolant, with a product called K-Seal. Surprisingly it has worked for the last few thousand miles (which has given me some breathing space to drop the spare engine in in better weather..)
@@TonytheYorkie If you expected ANY leak stop to fix a water pump you fundamentally do not understand how any of these products work, nor how the water pump works. Not sure why you would use "quite a few" on a leak that it is meant to fix. the low cost 'brown sludge' ones are trash, and in any case are intended to be flushed out after the leak is sealed. the good ones like the one sam used here only need one bottle on any leak they will be able to fik, and if it doesn't stop the leak they send your money back if you actually get the thing fixed properly at a shop. If you need more than one bottle of a quality leak stop, you have problems bigger than it is designed to fix. If you have a leaky water pump, the seals are shot and no amount of any product will fix them as a spinning shaft will remove any new seal formed by the leak stop. get a new pump next time.
I had a blown head gasket on my bmw 325i . Used k and w block sealer as can said to do and it worked. Top radiator hose had blow off one day and ran hot melting block sealer. Added block sealer again and it refixed it. Drove it until I sold it and the guy never came back and complained. In your case Sam you might have a cracked head that sealer is hard to fix. You have to be careful adding to much it can stop up your heater core.
I used a coolant additive to seal a broken head gasket on a 4 cylinder car, it worked for years. Originally when starting this cold 4 cylinder car with a broken head gasket, the car smoke screened like a 007 Car. The car never dripped coolant out the exhaust, but smoked and used coolant. Yeah it worked great, no more smoking until I drained the coolant years later due to a water pump replacement … Just repeat the treatment again. I do a head gasket check on other vehicles by shutting down a hot engine, and observe any air bubbles flowing back to the coolant reservoir. Good luck, and keep putting life back into those older vehicles.
Anybody who is unfortunate to own a Range Rover deserves a fantastic Christmas to make up for! Have a great one :)
All they need is the dashboard for the lights!
Coolant will damage the main bearings and cylinder walls as it displaces the oil. I would not drive the car any distance or rely on this car even if you do get it going. Merry Christmas. and good luck.
We drove a car around for a couple of years with a blown head gasket until a cylinder died and would barely run at all.
TONY B the TECH TIGER its a tickkng time bomb almost literally. No one wants that. 2weekd or 2 years dont press your luck
Technically you are right, but if you drain that oil and take the pan off and flush it a couple of times, it'll work just fine with new oil in. We've had tons of tractors with blown head gaskets who made the oil look almost milky white, just pulled the head off, replaced the gasked, head back on, flushed the oil out, washed the pan, put in some higher viscosity oil in (so we are extra safe), tractors still run to this day at full power.
also if the head gasket stop leak has sodium silicate (idk of any that doesn't) it will also damage the engine if leaked into the oil as sodium silicate is exactly what they used to destroy engines by pouring into the crankcase.
@@tonebonebgky2 Oh Gee, I wonder why that cylinder would have died ????? :-(
I would personally take out the whole engine and replace every line god knows how long its been sitting
I own a Land Rover Discovery 1, with the original 4.6 Rover V8 (Buick motor). I'll agree as time passed on LR was completely lost on what the truck used to mean. Getting you across the toughest terrain imaginable. It just didn't seem to care, short of the Defender, LR became street jewelry with no substance.
With that said, I love my Disco, and the Rover V8 is pretty stout once you upgrade a few things. The trans case, axles, rest of the drive train is a tank.
The electronics are finicky but most of the time it's due to negligence. Sam, thanks for this dude, love this saga and genuinely look forward to future updates on the RR.
water backing up from reservoir indicates a stuck thermostat. Use quart of liquid glass aka water glass with only water added in the cooling system, and leave the heater off when warming it up enough for it to work, you want all the heat in the engine during the sealing. All these problems reminds me of an engine that had an crankcase explosion due to fuel fumes built up in it and no draft or vacuum cycling it out and fresh air into the crack case. The starter may only need a contact kit. I used to turn the contact 180 degree out so the contact plate that the bendix which engages the flywheel and then hits the contact, usually burning it into a half moon look, it would work again, till I could buy and install the contact kit.
somebody needs an oil sponsor :D
With a vehicle like that, it couldn't hurt!
I wouldn't trust this pile of crap to the end of the driveway.
If you want this SH1T to work you need to isolate the cylinder that is pumping exhaust gasses through the leak into the coolant jacket by taking out the spark plug. Then you can run it with the coolant cap on. If you lose to much water, extend the coolant bottle opening with a pipe or cut the bottom off a plastic water cooler bottle and connect it upside down so you can keep water head on it and add more as it runs, it helps stop it splashing out on the floor as well. Test the rig before adding the product. The leak fixer needs to flow into the breech , not be pushed out the way by the cylinder compression going in the opposite direction. You must also consider it may not be the head gasket, you may have a crack in the casting.
A couple of things, vapors coming out of the exhaust are steam not smoke. If you try pouring oil, or coolant out of gallon container from the side, it won’t glub glub.