Important times in the video for you guys: Project Overview: 1:06 Part Overview: 2:20 Thread Chaser: 5:23 Lube: 6:01 Bolts vs Studs: 6:45 Installation Prep: 8:05 Head Stud Install: 13:58 Head Gasket Install: 20:00 Head Install: 21:18 Nuts/Washers Install: 23:42 Torque: 26:00 Upper Row Bolts: 31:10 Heat Cycle Torqueing: 32:20 ARP Company: 33:28
I used ARP fasters (started with Rod Bolts & Nuts) on my high performance or extreme conditions builds for almost 40 years, and I have not only never experienced a fastener related failure, I never witnessed anyone else and don’t know of anyone who has.
I thank you very much for your well explained, l just did my 1999 Dodge Diesel 5.9L, l truly appreciate you well explained step by step, l been mechanic most of my life , and helping the people are going to their car most are very poor like me , l love help when my body it's okay , l am disable fron neck to harms and hands lots of this do to insurance tuked forever to approve my first neck sirurgy, l love when people like you most do this to help one another with ther car or truck, God bless you and your love one, and Family, thanks keep up your excellent video , ❤🎉😅😅😅😅
Man I always learn something from you guys you guys are great this is Jim again with the 91.5 dodge and one of the things I was concerned about I was just thinking about my head studs they’ve been re-torque three times what I mean his head off head on so on and now I don’t have to worry about replacing them I don’t have a real high horsepower package I’m probably gonna buy 2 1/4 horse off that six cylinder Cummins hi anyway yeah I’m gonna be stepping up a little bit more on it but now I know I don’t have to replace my head studs you just save me a whole bunch of money by the way the head studs I got I got through you guys all right thanks man have a good day bye
I have ARP head studs in my ford 6.0 and my lml Duramax they fit great after getting a replacement nut as they forgot to roll threads into one nut. Grip! the manifold bolts and up pipe bolts from ARP I would NOT recommend. I got a full set planned to put all new bolts in and ended up putting two washers on the short manifold bolt on right side as the short bolt was to long. Yes I made sure it was clean. Up pipe bolts are all still in the shop as they would not fit at all unless I had put two washers on each again so I put the stock bolts back in. They need to rethink there bolt lengths maybe measure a factory bolt and just copy it.
Ok here's a question... For starters my background is automotive tech as well as heavy equipment tech. The part where you guys talked about lubing only one side of the washer makes 100% total sense to me as the flat side facing the part that is being tightened needs to bite and spread the clamping force. My question is why do the ARP instructions for my 6.7 Cummins 2000's say to lube both sides of the washer?
Yes please make some videos on 6.0powerstroke and how to properly install arp head studs and also cleaning the threads before installing along with part# great video thank you
This video does not follow the arp instructions. Can we get some clarification please. Arp2000 for a 24v Cummins p/n 247-4202. In the install instructions step 5. " Lubricate the both sides of the washers with ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant then place them over the studs onto the cylinder head." Also no where does it state lubing the bottom on the stud. Is Mike correct or the instructions on their website.
We lubricate the top of the washer for correct torque, we want the nut to glide with the washer on the tightening sequence but what the washer to stay in place on the head deck. Step 6 in the 247-4202 kits shows to lubricate stud end into the block.
At 22:27 this is why I install the head first especially if the engine is still installed say in a Camaro or dodge pickup you will never ever have room to install the head besides if there is ANYTHING inside the holes it can get dislodged and fall onto the gasket and cause issues or damage
I found if you take a couple pieces of wooden dowel that are an inch or so longer than the head studs when they are set in the locating dowel pins in the .block you can just slide the head over these . Makes it very easy to locate all the holes and set the head down without scratching up the head I assume you set all studs in the block to prevent oil migrating on to your clean head gasket, block and head surfaces. By setting wood dowel in the locating dowel and having these studs out you get some protection from oil intrusion from the locating dowel going up into the head. you could even put a very light coat of rtv around the outside top of locating dowels to add further protection.
,,, I also don't like the lube on both sides of the washer, but it will not affect stretch or clamp load . Stack height, stretch, will be the same either way. But it's just a waste of lube to put it on the underside of the washer . Alright, a possibility of a slight amount of less torque reading to achieve the same stretch, but the majority of friction reduction comes from the lube on the threads and under the nut on the washer interface .
Great video. Happy to hear the ARP rep talk about not needing to pull the head if you just want to switch to studs. I've been wanting to do that but wasn't sure it was okay to do. As far as the order of replacing the bolts to the studs one at a time, would it be best to just go in order of the torque sequence?
Going from bolts to studs without honing it with a tq plate is recipe for disaster stud clamping forces are much greater than bolts and will distort the block
Most expensive part on my dads 6.0 build but we know it will be a dependable truck for him and my mom when its done because we spent that extra money on arp studs to do it right
Was surprised there was no mention of the beveled/chamfered washers. There is a bevel on only one side of the washers. The beveled side faces up towards the nut/bolt head.
It's been bothering me for quite some time, people that pretend that they are professional engine builders, when they are somewhat competent engine assemblers that are on TV or TH-cam. For instance, using a dry stud & driving it in with drill or low torque impact driver. Has anyone seen a factory bolt that bottoms out while torquing? I didn't think so, so let's look things up when you're not absolutely positive. Nobody knows everything, so don't assume that because you see many people are doing it on TH-cam or tv, that they are doing it right, do your research first.
After the engine is in and at operating temperature, turn off the engine and remove the applicable parts to have access and retorque those head bolts. Wait for the coolant to cool down and do a cylinder leak down test. Stay safe and have fun y'all ❤
excellente vidéo, j'ai appris des choses en vous regardant, et cela me permettra de corriger une erreur qui est celle de lubrifier le boulon avant, chose que je ne faisais jamais. Merci à vous deux.😉
I have a LLY with 130k...we all know head gasket is a issue . i want to prevent it..do you recommomed just dping the head studs one by one...or should i just do the head gasket all at once
Great info! Thank you!! What is the thread pitch for the ARP head studs on a 6.0 power stroke? I want to get a thread chaser, but cannot find a definitive answer. I have the box of studs sitting at home waiting to be installed. Thank you!!
The manufactures use headbolts because they are more than adequate for stock applications. it’s when People start tuning/modifying them is when you start to run into problems. more boost,rpm and fuel, higher pressures= you need stronger hardware.
@@atlas3863 unless you own a 6.0 or 6.4, even stock have issues, I own a 6.0 and when done will have no problem but it crazy companies will not stand behind certain trucks because they know they failed or massive problems
@@thoroughbreddiesel please make some how to videos on the powerstroke along with the proper ways to clean the head bolt holes and threads and install of studs etc please and thank you ur videos are great
This Video does not follow ARP's instructions that come with the kit and on their website in regards to lubing the hardware. The instructions say "Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers", no where does it say only lubricate one side of the washers.
Thats genuine enthusiasm. So either hes getting paid insane amounts or the product speaks for itself. I think the latter lol. Never heard anything bad about ARP and they stand by what they sell which is a rarity nowadays. Good skills.
I just installed UCF O ringed heads on my 6.4 powerstroke and used ARP head studs and Mahle gasket kit . After 5000 miles later it blew the head gasket. Not sure what was the point to spend a few $1000 just for parts.
Wade, so I cleaned my thread holes with the thread chaser, used wd40, brake clean, then compresed air. My questio is when I was cleaning it felt like it stopped, but I turned a bit more on chaser and got like 2 full turns, then it came to a complete stop. Should I be concerned about the water jackets?? Being cracked or punched through. I put a light down there and it looks clean..please help
Could have just been a rough spot in the threads. Measure the thread tool stop depth on another hole and compare it to the one you are concerned with and see what you come up with.
Great video, Is that a bottoming chaser, it looks flat on the bottom, the one on the web site looks like it has a tip on it, i don't see any other option for a LML m12x1.5, what the part number on that?
Hi, I saw an another video when the technician told that stud must be hand tighted to the bottom than one half turn back. What method is the best, please?
@@thoroughbreddiesel it literally says on ARPs website "However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated."
Someone please help with an answer, I took my lbz heads off just to add a cam, new valves and springs and head studs, do I need the head’s resurfaced since there was no gasket issues?
I watched your video 6 hours too late and have created an issue that you spoke of with my head stud block holes. I sprayed PB Blaster into my Duramax LLY in the vehicle, (2006 Hummer H1 Alpha) and then proceeded to to ratchet down the old bolts compressing the oil beyond the pop until I reached bottom on many of my bolt holes. I tried vacuum testing the holes, with no luck, and then stuck a bore camera into them all. I can't say that I can for certain identify any cracks, but they are likely around the base of the bores. I am looking for guidance as too some fixes for this? I am not planning on high HP and will not run over 450hp on the LLY. I've seen some articles on high end high temp epoxies, and also thread sealants that keep the water from passing, as many engines are bored into the water jackets and sealant is used. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Sounds like an awesome conversion. I really don’t have a piece of advice on this that I am comfortable that will solve the issue (if you have one). The job is pretty extensive and expensive, might be better here to pull the engine and have the block pressure checked. I know that’s not what you wanted to hear but any repair other than that would totally be a gamble that you would have to be comfortable with. I mean this in the most sincere way, GOOD LUCK!
@@thoroughbreddiesel Thanks for the response and for the advice. I'm pushing forward with placement of the gaskets and heads followed by stud placement using Loctite head bolt & water jacket sealant on all the studs, then the ARP torque down. I found 3 stud holes that drain acetone into the water jacket quickly and I'm fairly certain there are a few more slower draining stud holes. If it ends up being a problem, I'll pull the engine in the spring, but I don't believe it will be an issue.
using torque to yield is not a financial decision. its for hitting a more narrow target preload. there are cases where fasteners can be reused despite having minimal yielding, when you're skirting the line between proof load and yield. also maintaining ±5% on a straight torque using their lube is questionable as a blanket statement. otherwise decent demo
Important times in the video for you guys:
Project Overview: 1:06
Part Overview: 2:20
Thread Chaser: 5:23
Lube: 6:01
Bolts vs Studs: 6:45
Installation Prep: 8:05
Head Stud Install: 13:58
Head Gasket Install: 20:00
Head Install: 21:18
Nuts/Washers Install: 23:42
Torque: 26:00
Upper Row Bolts: 31:10
Heat Cycle Torqueing: 32:20
ARP Company: 33:28
I have a 7.3 how long should you baby the truck until you can romp on it i have arp headstuds and brand new gaskets
Always good to give a job like that time to break in. If it were my personal truck, I would drive it 500 miles before towing, etc.
This is a solid demo. I’m an ARP user too. These rules apply to all threaded connections.
You learned something from Mike, I learned something from you. You guys are true professionals, and yes, you guys Rock!
I used ARP fasters (started with Rod Bolts & Nuts) on my high performance or extreme conditions builds for almost 40 years, and I have not only never experienced a fastener related failure, I never witnessed anyone else and don’t know of anyone who has.
I thank you very much for your well explained, l just did my 1999 Dodge Diesel 5.9L, l truly appreciate you well explained step by step, l been mechanic most of my life , and helping the people are going to their car most are very poor like me , l love help when my body it's okay , l am disable fron neck to harms and hands lots of this do to insurance tuked forever to approve my first neck sirurgy, l love when people like you most do this to help one another with ther car or truck, God bless you and your love one, and Family, thanks keep up your excellent video , ❤🎉😅😅😅😅
Thank you and God Bless you as well.
I’ve used my studs over an over circle track racing work great
Man I always learn something from you guys you guys are great this is Jim again with the 91.5 dodge and one of the things I was concerned about I was just thinking about my head studs they’ve been re-torque three times what I mean his head off head on so on and now I don’t have to worry about replacing them I don’t have a real high horsepower package I’m probably gonna buy 2 1/4 horse off that six cylinder Cummins hi anyway yeah I’m gonna be stepping up a little bit more on it but now I know I don’t have to replace my head studs you just save me a whole bunch of money by the way the head studs I got I got through you guys all right thanks man have a good day bye
I probably would have used moly grease on the thread chaser to catch the crap in the stud holes as well as covered the cylinders
I have ARP head studs in my ford 6.0 and my lml Duramax they fit great after getting a replacement nut as they forgot to roll threads into one nut.
Grip!
the manifold bolts and up pipe bolts from ARP I would NOT recommend.
I got a full set planned to put all new bolts in and ended up putting two washers on the short manifold bolt on right side as the short bolt was to long. Yes I made sure it was clean.
Up pipe bolts are all still in the shop as they would not fit at all unless I had put two washers on each again so I put the stock bolts back in.
They need to rethink there bolt lengths maybe measure a factory bolt and just copy it.
Couldn't help but hear somebody drop some exhaust pressure at 8:40 👌💨
Ok here's a question... For starters my background is automotive tech as well as heavy equipment tech. The part where you guys talked about lubing only one side of the washer makes 100% total sense to me as the flat side facing the part that is being tightened needs to bite and spread the clamping force. My question is why do the ARP instructions for my 6.7 Cummins 2000's say to lube both sides of the washer?
Did you ever get an answer to this? I'm also curious as to why this video contradicts the written install instructions.
Make more Powerstroke content please wade
Yes please make some videos on 6.0powerstroke and how to properly install arp head studs and also cleaning the threads before installing along with part# great video thank you
This video does not follow the arp instructions. Can we get some clarification please. Arp2000 for a 24v Cummins p/n 247-4202. In the install instructions step 5. " Lubricate the both sides of the washers with ARP Ultra-Torque Fastener Assembly Lubricant then place them over the studs onto the cylinder head." Also no where does it state lubing the bottom on the stud. Is Mike correct or the instructions on their website.
We lubricate the top of the washer for correct torque, we want the nut to glide with the washer on the tightening sequence but what the washer to stay in place on the head deck. Step 6 in the 247-4202 kits shows to lubricate stud end into the block.
At 22:27 this is why I install the head first especially if the engine is still installed say in a Camaro or dodge pickup you will never ever have room to install the head besides if there is ANYTHING inside the holes it can get dislodged and fall onto the gasket and cause issues or damage
I found if you take a couple pieces of wooden dowel that are an inch or so longer than the head studs when they are set in the locating dowel pins in the .block you can just slide the head over these . Makes it very easy to locate all the holes and set the head down without scratching up the head I assume you set all studs in the block to prevent oil migrating on to your clean head gasket, block and head surfaces. By setting wood dowel in the locating dowel and having these studs out you get some protection from oil intrusion from the locating dowel going up into the head. you could even put a very light coat of rtv around the outside top of locating dowels to add further protection.
Great tip!
Arp instructions for the kit say to lubricate with arp lube all threads, washers and nuts.
,,, I also don't like the lube on both sides of the washer, but it will not affect stretch or clamp load . Stack height, stretch, will be the same either way. But it's just a waste of lube to put it on the underside of the washer . Alright, a possibility of a slight amount of less torque reading to achieve the same stretch, but the majority of friction reduction comes from the lube on the threads and under the nut on the washer interface .
Great video. Happy to hear the ARP rep talk about not needing to pull the head if you just want to switch to studs. I've been wanting to do that but wasn't sure it was okay to do. As far as the order of replacing the bolts to the studs one at a time, would it be best to just go in order of the torque sequence?
Going from bolts to studs without honing it with a tq plate is recipe for disaster stud clamping forces are much greater than bolts and will distort the block
Wish they were cheaper! Soo darn expensive
Most expensive part on my dads 6.0 build but we know it will be a dependable truck for him and my mom when its done because we spent that extra money on arp studs to do it right
High quality=high cost.Do you want to pay more to do it right once,or spend even more to fix it again later?
Was surprised there was no mention of the beveled/chamfered washers. There is a bevel on only one side of the washers. The beveled side faces up towards the nut/bolt head.
The washers for these kits are not chamfered.
It's been bothering me for quite some time, people that pretend that they are professional engine builders, when they are somewhat competent engine assemblers that are on TV or TH-cam. For instance, using a dry stud & driving it in with drill or low torque impact driver. Has anyone seen a factory bolt that bottoms out while torquing? I didn't think so, so let's look things up when you're not absolutely positive. Nobody knows everything, so don't assume that because you see many people are doing it on TH-cam or tv, that they are doing it right, do your research first.
@@Chris-bn1bn what
Great video right to the good stuff.
Glad you think so!
After the engine is in and at operating temperature, turn off the engine and remove the applicable parts to have access and retorque those head bolts. Wait for the coolant to cool down and do a cylinder leak down test. Stay safe and have fun y'all ❤
excellente vidéo, j'ai appris des choses en vous regardant, et cela me permettra de corriger une erreur qui est celle de lubrifier le boulon avant, chose que je ne faisais jamais.
Merci à vous deux.😉
I have a LLY with 130k...we all know head gasket is a issue . i want to prevent it..do you recommomed just dping the head studs one by one...or should i just do the head gasket all at once
If your going to tear apart the top end of the motor anyway, then you might as well
do both head gaskets and all the studs.
Great info! Thank you!!
What is the thread pitch for the ARP head studs on a 6.0 power stroke? I want to get a thread chaser, but cannot find a definitive answer. I have the box of studs sitting at home waiting to be installed. Thank you!!
They are M14 bolts.
i just bought a 2006 f350 with 6.0 diesel only 58k on it want to do studs you guys mentioned i can do it one at a time and will be okay
I still don't understand why the factory doesn't do this from the get go being they've been proven to be so beneficial
Money spent on quality parts = lost profits for corporations.
The manufactures use headbolts because they are more than adequate for stock applications. it’s when People start tuning/modifying them is when you start to run into problems. more boost,rpm and fuel, higher pressures= you need stronger hardware.
@@atlas3863 unless you own a 6.0 or 6.4, even stock have issues, I own a 6.0 and when done will have no problem but it crazy companies will not stand behind certain trucks because they know they failed or massive problems
Cost
Can I clean the threads with a normal tap? Of the right size
Yes but when you don’t use a bottoming tap, the bottom threads aren’t cleaned.
Watching you put the head on gave me a headache. But I forgive you lol. I’m sure the eyes have aged a bit too haha keep up the great content Wade
Is this a pun. Asking for a friend.
@@thoroughbreddiesel please make some how to videos on the powerstroke along with the proper ways to clean the head bolt holes and threads and install of studs etc please and thank you ur videos are great
@@chrisrogers6254 rifle brushes and air compressor with a tip. Works great for me
This Video does not follow ARP's instructions that come with the kit and on their website in regards to lubing the hardware. The instructions say "Lubricate the stud threads, nuts and washers", no where does it say only lubricate one side of the washers.
Bald guy is shaking his head for a solid 30m out of 36m
Thats genuine enthusiasm. So either hes getting paid insane amounts or the product speaks for itself. I think the latter lol. Never heard anything bad about ARP and they stand by what they sell which is a rarity nowadays. Good skills.
What’s the arp part number for the cleaner chase?
ARP912-0007 for the Chevrolet studs (M12-1.5)
I just installed UCF O ringed heads on my 6.4 powerstroke and used ARP head studs and Mahle gasket kit . After 5000 miles later it blew the head gasket. Not sure what was the point to spend a few $1000 just for parts.
thanks for the indepth video. how can i use a thread chaser if i am putting in the studs one at a time? the chaser doesn't seem long enough. thanks
For the Dodges, there is an extended length thread chaser, M12-1.75. Part number 912-0016.
Thanks, I will look for an m12x1.25 for my 4d56t mitsubishi engine
Wade, so I cleaned my thread holes with the thread chaser, used wd40, brake clean, then compresed air. My questio is when I was cleaning it felt like it stopped, but I turned a bit more on chaser and got like 2 full turns, then it came to a complete stop. Should I be concerned about the water jackets?? Being cracked or punched through. I put a light down there and it looks clean..please help
Could have just been a rough spot in the threads. Measure the thread tool stop depth on another hole and compare it to the one you are concerned with and see what you come up with.
Great video, Is that a bottoming chaser, it looks flat on the bottom, the one on the web site looks like it has a tip on it, i don't see any other option for a LML m12x1.5, what the part number on that?
Not gonna make me watch y’all put in every one of them? Wouldn’t do that to me? Wtf that’s what I’m here foorrr!!!
We suppose that would have been satisfying but the video is already long. lol
Hi, I saw an another video when the technician told that stud must be hand tighted to the bottom than one half turn back. What method is the best, please?
We install by hand tightening stud till it bottoms, and then loosening slightly.
@@thoroughbreddiesel thanks for the fast reply. I'll do this. Take care.
You're welcome!
@@thoroughbreddiesel it literally says on ARPs website "However, it is extremely important to ensure that the studs are fully bottomed out in the hole in the block and not hung up on damaged or corroded threads in the block preventing the stud from being fully seated."
Someone please help with an answer, I took my lbz heads off just to add a cam, new valves and springs and head studs, do I need the head’s resurfaced since there was no gasket issues?
Yes! If you are that far in please please please send your heads out and have them checked and surfaced.
@@thoroughbreddiesel Good, I just dropped them off. Thanks!
How many slipped on the final torque
Knuckle buster?
Amazing how a thread chaser can punch through the water jacket and ruin a block
Can you please tell me the diffrence between thoroughbred diesel head studs and Arp head studs.
Both are great products!
I watched your video 6 hours too late and have created an issue that you spoke of with my head stud block holes. I sprayed PB Blaster into my Duramax LLY in the vehicle, (2006 Hummer H1 Alpha) and then proceeded to to ratchet down the old bolts compressing the oil beyond the pop until I reached bottom on many of my bolt holes. I tried vacuum testing the holes, with no luck, and then stuck a bore camera into them all. I can't say that I can for certain identify any cracks, but they are likely around the base of the bores. I am looking for guidance as too some fixes for this? I am not planning on high HP and will not run over 450hp on the LLY. I've seen some articles on high end high temp epoxies, and also thread sealants that keep the water from passing, as many engines are bored into the water jackets and sealant is used. Thanks for any help you can offer.
Sounds like an awesome conversion. I really don’t have a piece of advice on this that I am comfortable that will solve the issue (if you have one). The job is pretty extensive and expensive, might be better here to pull the engine and have the block pressure checked. I know that’s not what you wanted to hear but any repair other than that would totally be a gamble that you would have to be comfortable with. I mean this in the most sincere way, GOOD LUCK!
@@thoroughbreddiesel Thanks for the response and for the advice. I'm pushing forward with placement of the gaskets and heads followed by stud placement using Loctite head bolt & water jacket sealant on all the studs, then the ARP torque down. I found 3 stud holes that drain acetone into the water jacket quickly and I'm fairly certain there are a few more slower draining stud holes. If it ends up being a problem, I'll pull the engine in the spring, but I don't believe it will be an issue.
Does the 625 head stud cost more the 2000 if so how much more
Give us a call 1-866-941-5493.
Why doesn't ARP recommend or make a harmonic balancer stud instead of a bolt if a stud is superior to a bolt?
Can you use threadlocker on block side of studs
We do not suggest using thread locker.
using torque to yield is not a financial decision. its for hitting a more narrow target preload. there are cases where fasteners can be reused despite having minimal yielding, when you're skirting the line between proof load and yield. also maintaining ±5% on a straight torque using their lube is questionable as a blanket statement. otherwise decent demo
💪🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸👍🏻👍🏻
Did anyone get a part # for the ARP thread chaser? Need one for the LML.
M8 x 1.25
M12 x 1.50