Great video!! & as you said.. "do it right the 1st time won't have to do it again".. & plan for the future by upgrading to stud to handle more power later!! Well said!!
My mechanic wants to use the studs on a stock LQ4 GM engine. Because it's easier to install the head and get good torque. PLUS, he doesn't have to worry about breaking a head bolt if he needs to rebuilt it later.
Very informative, I want to freshen up a northstar motor (2008) and go from an M11 to M12 head bolt. I dont like the idea of inserts because of the close proximity to the water jacket, the stud kits available cost a fortune and seem overkill for a stock motor. It hasnt had the threads pull out-its just a preventative measure. What advice do you have and what torque would I need for the increased diameter on something like this? Thanks in advance.
Thank you for your videos I just had an issue with the new build pretty sure it was a head gasket, not sealing issue and not the stock GM bolts But I noticed that the head bolts were not all tightened, the same while taking the heads off not sure if that’s common on tty’s. Really bothered me. So the machine shop said everything was straight had it double checked now spending money on ARP hardware to make sure they are right. “yes all new bolts were used”
I feel I am in a similar situation. Minor coolant consumption on new build. Cylinder heads checked. Block showed no signs of leaking when it came apart. New Felpro bolts and head gaskets. Thinking of changing the bolts to studs. Likely going to try one at a time and see if it improves things. (Going to have new engine ready to go in the event that it fails miserably.)
I do not like using torque to yield bolts. I know by the book it is right and I’ve not had one fail yet but I still prefer the click(or beep), of a torque wrench.
Hi, could i please ask if the final clamping torque will needed to be changed when replacing factory head bolts to studs? For instance if the final torque setting for factory bolts was 50 Nm will it be the same for head studs/nuts ? I would really appreciate your take on this Regards
The manufacturer will have updated torque requirements for their bolts or studs. If you're using newer casting heads, ARP has changed their torque settings for those as well as people were pulling the threads out of the block with the old torque numbers.
Another advantage in a stud is clamping dynamic. Bolts pull on the block causing bore distortion. Studs minimize this distortion. Guys using Ford 5.0 HO blocks benefit from studs bc the block is so weak.
Blocks distort differently and thus may or may not need torque plates for the honing process. The selected bolts or studs should be used during torque plate honing. I cringe at the thought of swapping bolts for studs willy-nilly, at least a $60k engine should be machined and built correctly. As for an old clunker hone and go beater that originally came with magic bolts, I reach for grade-8.
Great video!! & as you said.. "do it right the 1st time won't have to do it again".. & plan for the future by upgrading to stud to handle more power later!! Well said!!
Thanks!
My mechanic wants to use the studs on a stock LQ4 GM engine. Because it's easier to install the head and get good torque. PLUS, he doesn't have to worry about breaking a head bolt if he needs to rebuilt it later.
Very informative, I want to freshen up a northstar motor (2008) and go from an M11 to M12 head bolt. I dont like the idea of inserts because of the close proximity to the water jacket, the stud kits available cost a fortune and seem overkill for a stock motor. It hasnt had the threads pull out-its just a preventative measure. What advice do you have and what torque would I need for the increased diameter on something like this?
Thanks in advance.
Love the videos 👍
Thank you for your videos
I just had an issue with the new build pretty sure it was a head gasket, not sealing issue and not the stock GM bolts
But I noticed that the head bolts were not all tightened, the same while taking the heads off not sure if that’s common on tty’s. Really bothered me.
So the machine shop said everything was straight had it double checked now spending money on ARP hardware to make sure they are right. “yes all new bolts were used”
I feel I am in a similar situation. Minor coolant consumption on new build. Cylinder heads checked. Block showed no signs of leaking when it came apart. New Felpro bolts and head gaskets. Thinking of changing the bolts to studs. Likely going to try one at a time and see if it improves things. (Going to have new engine ready to go in the event that it fails miserably.)
I do not like using torque to yield bolts. I know by the book it is right and I’ve not had one fail yet but I still prefer the click(or beep), of a torque wrench.
Can studs work on a 4th gen f body? Without having to drop the motor out to pull the heads off?
Hi, could i please ask if the final clamping torque will needed to be changed when replacing factory head bolts to studs? For instance if the final torque setting for factory bolts was 50 Nm will it be the same for head studs/nuts ? I would really appreciate your take on this
Regards
The manufacturer will have updated torque requirements for their bolts or studs. If you're using newer casting heads, ARP has changed their torque settings for those as well as people were pulling the threads out of the block with the old torque numbers.
@@Sdpartscenter thank you
Is 90 ft lbs seem like a lot for an 2005 6.0 I got arp2000 head bolts ? All the same size bolts lengths ect..
Another advantage in a stud is clamping dynamic. Bolts pull on the block causing bore distortion. Studs minimize this distortion.
Guys using Ford 5.0 HO blocks benefit from studs bc the block is so weak.
Blocks distort differently and thus may or may not need torque plates for the honing process. The selected bolts or studs should be used during torque plate honing.
I cringe at the thought of swapping bolts for studs willy-nilly, at least a $60k engine should be machined and built correctly.
As for an old clunker hone and go beater that originally came with magic bolts, I reach for grade-8.
I purchased the ARP Studs for my LT4 To LT5 upgrade, but the package came with four small skinny studs & bolts. What are they for?
Can’t wait to get my motor over to you guys soon. May need to do a collaboration hopefully.
Thank you!! Great vid. Take a deep breath though lol !!
😂😂
I’ll use stock. Gm makes great parts. If you need to seal the cylinder for leakage get fire rings installed. Stock gm bolts get stronger over time.
Not better quality than ARP.
Hi, I found 2 bolts and two studs on my car's throttle body attached to the engine. Why not all 4 bolts or studs? Can you please explain
Should watch sloppy mechanics
Dont use studs on a bbc unless you know what your getting into