Would you ever sell a kit with all these parts and an install document? If not, is there a master list of all components needed so I can get all this ordered? I’d totally buy this right now for three 6.7L trucks! Really great video, Thank you.
Fantastic information. I am getting a P0541 on my 2006 dodge ram 5.9, the so-called mechanic that fixed it, replaced the regulator and the check engine light went on 8 miles down the road. He actually zip tied the regulator on to the battery cable. Shoddy workmanship to say the least. Thank you. Whatever happened to real mechanics.
The easiest thing to do is to buy a kit from banks power Which has the upgraded Intake manifold. And the grid heater delete which does away with the grid heater completely and you will get more fuel mileage and more horse power out of the engine and its also e p a compliant and it also comes with a heater that goes into the intake manifold
Yes at the dealer if not under warranty I tell the customer to buy that and we can install it. If it’s under warranty I let them know there is a fix but they’d have to pay for those parts and we can do it under warranty that way.
Greetings Chain, The parts are just some old grid resistors that were harvested from a failed grid heater plate. If you check the dumpster behind any large FCA dealer (especially in winter) you should be able to get a few burnt grid plates out of the dumpster. Each grid plate has two resistors in it. You will need both of the resistors. The dummy load frame (mounted behind my fan) I got off Ebay. www.ebay.com/itm/403192617742 Search on 5.9L Grid Heater Element and you will have a selection of frames and complete grids to choose from. For additional info logon to cumminsforum.com and search for posts by forum member Electrojake “Grid Heater” or P2609.
Just buy the banks monster ram kit, it deletes the grid heater properly. Stop being cheap and just spend the $900 to save your Cummins. Pause at 7:18 You’re welcome
Looking forward to the new device. Going to see if they can just turn off my grid heater in my tune. I live in a warm climate and only see 25-32 degrees a few days a year.
If someone were riding around town with a stuck grid heater relay coil, wouldn't they have the icon displayed on their dash? Some people may not pick up on this issue if it's displayed, but technically if that coil is energized constantly, that yellow icon should be displayed constantly as opposed to just momentarily during initial start up. I'm considering going to the grid heater delete with Banks Monster Ram Gen 2 mod.
No! The signal on the CAN bus (and on your dash) only shows what the PCM is sending out, NOT the true active state of the grid heater circuit. The Gen-4 Rams had a TSB issued several years back expressly because of the grid heater solenoid contacts getting welded shut (and staying on) even after the PCM went low on the intake air heater signal. The driver would be driving around all afternoon with full power to the grid heater even though these was no "on" signal being sent from the PCM. IMHO the red LED indicating grid heater power in my cab is crucial! Sorry to go so long here but you should also be aware that ALL the gauges & indications on your dash are more or less fake. Oil pressure, volts, temp, etc... It has all been programmed to display what FCA "thinks" the driver wants to see and NOT reality. I could explain the reasons but I'm already way too long here. And thank you for asking the question.👍
@@Electro489 Thanks for the explaination. I know the dash indications aren't accurate given that they're digital. I've dealt with false indications from signal conditioners, transducers, and converter circuit cards. They'll tell you that you're lube oil is low, temp hi, etc and until you compare it to an analog gage; or another source local to the equipment (if you can see it). If the can bus isn't set up to show the error that the relay is on when it shouldn't be; that's a problem. There should be a timer that should elapse and if ithe heater is still energized; there should be a fault. However if you take one of the inputs to the can bus out; you get a fault. They've made vehicles more complicated than they need to be just by having a can bus. Even Harley Davidsons have a can bus.
@@a.r.o7697 100% Agreed. 👍 Back around 2013 I had a 155cc Yamaha Zuma that had a computerized ECU running things. Has a check engine light on the instrument cluster and all. 😆
Yea.... I have gotten codes for "Intake Air Heater High" on my work truck, and this makes me nervous as hell. Going to check the bolt for looseness first thing tomorrow. I tell you what: If you had a ready-made kit to solve this problem, I'd buy one in a heartbeat. And so would others! Go ahead and get one together, you'll sell plenty of them; I don't mind putting cash in your pocket for your intelligent analysis and solution!
* The small problem is: I could put together a kit with instructions but the cost of hand building them one at a time would be rather restrictive. * The BIG problem is: The liability. A sloppy or improper install by a user could possibly cause a fire. Also I am (slightly) altering the emissions system. Reducing grid current is very minor in the scheme of things but technically it does alter the stock emissions system and the EPA would hunt me down and fine me thousand$! Probably even give me jail time if they figured out I voted Republican in the last election.
@@Electro489 Understood, about the pitfalls and liabilities. This video may be enough for me to get something going which will work to ward off potential problems. With all of the electronics available to modern car companies, I don't know why Chrysler Corp fails to use a graduated level of power to the intake air heater. 225 amps is a LOT, way more than needed except in the coldest of air temperatures.
Great information. I'm new to the Cummins so I'm soaking up as much information as I can. How did you wire in the LED to monitor the relay status? I'm planning on deleting the grid heater when I install the banks monster ram as it has a new style heater option.
It is simply a 12 VDC LED wired directly between battery negative & the grid heater stud that was shown in the jiggle test. And yes! The Gale Banks mod is expensive but an excellent way to protect your engine from a catastrophic failure. 👍
I just had this exact same problem on the Cummins I currently working on. grid heater killer bolt came off from the inside, won't able to find the piece. we tried inspection camera, suitable magnet handle on each possible area, no luck. I just found the smashed bolt thread piece on #6 top of the piston, STILL CAN'T FIND THE NUT..
I have a 2018 3500 ram diesel. I am wanting to take my grid heater out. Your video is great. It looks like you have 2, 5.9 Cummins grid heaters as foolers. Am I correct? Can you take some pictures of how you wired them up. 6.7 only has one wire going to the grid heater but the 5.9 has 2 I believe. Thank you in advance.
Did you manage to make a simpler device that would allows us to delete or disable the grid heater with a P2609 code. I'm trying to figure out a clever way of doing this with a local shop.
Was thinking it might be possible to somehow fool the truck into thinking it's warmer than it actually is (so the grid heater doesn't activate). At least not as much anyway. Might work for owners that live in warmer climates. Wondering if it would help to simply start the truck without waiting for the grid heater light to go out? Wondering if that action significantly reduces the grid heater on time, or does it continue heating after the truck is started anyway?
Really appreciate the video! I keep getting the 2609 code after I've been driving quite some time and it will sometimes turn itself off (at least according to the CEL). I've checked the death bolt for wobble and there is none, any suggestions on what might be wrong? I'm in central AZ hot as balls. Thank you!
For those of us in the Az desert, we should do the grid heater delete and mount the heater outside the engine to allow the computer to see it and not give a CEL.
@@philrettig4720 The LED simply connects between the grid heater stud on the engine and to the battery negative. If you buy an LED make sure it is rated to operate on 12 volts. Any time there is power on the grid the LED will light, this way you can be sure your grid heater power is not on when it should be off.
The only remote start systems I have ever worked with are OEM (factory) so I have no clue as to how an after-market remote start would handle the grid heater cycle. However, it is my assumption that it would NOT cause any excessive burn time on the grids. The big problems occur when people pre-heat their grids manually, especially if they do it repeatedly. My advice: Install the remote start and you should be fine.
@@Electro489 I don't do a preheat, but very curious about that. Is that when you plug in to a 110 outlet. I live in NY and temps sometimes go to the single digits. I never plugged in I just use a thinner diesel motor oil for the winter months. that does fine with no start issues except adding anti gel additive at fill up during those months and never had an issue.
I have a 2019 3500 dually and my battery kept dying so I did alternator and batteries. Then seen the wires from relay burning hot. Volts was 12.2 running so I disconnected that cable from battery to relay and my volts went to 14.0 and all wires were good. Should I leave it disconnected or what problem will I have
Leave it disconnected! I am not familiar with the Gen-5 trucks so I cant supply details but your running voltage should NOT be that low so yes, keep it disconnected until you find the issue.
Hi I see its been 3 years since you made this, and you hinted around that you we're going to try to make a plug and play box . Just wondered if you ever got it done and if it was for sale. Thanks
Hi Cooter, The dummy load device I installed on my old 2016 has been doing fine so I never got the motivation to build the electronic version of the Grid Heater Delete gadget. If I ever do a tune & delete on my 2016 I'll have to look into designing and building the plug & play gadget.🍺
With the grid heater disconnected You will eventually throw a P2609 code and an MIL on the dash. Note that the remote start will not function if you have an active MIL. Mechanically the grid heater is NOT needed. The truck will run fine without it.
What years is this exactly applicable to? Only 2010 and up or? I mean by the bolt failure, 07-10 safe or are the prone to that grid heater failure also?
All Cummins 6.7L engines use this type of grid heater, however... The specific engine destroying failures my video describes are for Mopar part number 68210071AA used in model years 2013 to 2021.
Hello, so just to calm my anxiety, The 2012 RAM 3500 doesn't need this MOD Right? I just bought my 2012 Ram 3500 longhorn with 130K miles on it back in March 2020. Thanks for the Info.
@@BlackRhyno17 i have an 08 6.7 and have the same issue. All 6.7s have this problem. My relay stuck on so i removed the relay. So i have a CEL until i replace the relay.
Why would you not just delete the stock grid heater, and tap in a Duramax intake heater into your intake and forget about all this extra clutter in your engine bay? Way easier and no more bolt going into your engine.
The purpose of the grid heater is to warm the intake air going into the engine on cold winter days. The result is less white smoke on start-up. Be glad you have a gas truck. These diesels are an expensive pain in the ass.
Delete the grid heater or disconnect the cable from grid heater and grid heater relay. Simple and easy. If you don’t live in the north you don’t need it.
Actually you did buy the right truck... If you had a Ford with the 6.7L Powerstroke you'd spend most of your time walking! 😆 There are two things to look out for on the Gen-4 Ram/Cummins trucks: Killer grid heater bolt and the killer rubber fan shroud issue. If you tow heavy in a hot climate then the fan shroud will get you. If you operate your truck in a cold climate and do lots of short trips then the grid heater will get you.
There are two kinds of RAM/Cummins owners... Those that say "it will never happen to me" and those that have had it happen and suffered the consequences of a blown engine.
All this fuckin around and worrying for something that has happened to maybe 50 trucks out of 100’s of thousands of trucks being sold. Lol.. I live in MN and my grid heater is in when it’s -30 for 40 seconds lol.. truck has 60,000 miles and 4 winters on it. If it was gonna happen to a lot of trucks it would happen to the guys in the north USA or Canada. Leave the truck the way it was designed..
There are two kinds of Cummins owners... Those that swear it will never happen to them, and those that had to drop $10,000+ on a new engine because they ate a grid heater stud.
I wish I knew that this was was going to happening, I had my engine destroyed. I wish i could after Chrysler and make them pay for the cost of the repair.
Let me correct that for you... The best way to solve all vehicle reliability problems is to buy a gas powered engine. Modern emissions compliant diesels in today's market are complete garbage. Conversely, gas engines for small trucks (say under 15,000 GVWR) have greatly advanced in the last decade. Light diesel in today's market is a hobby and little more.
Would you ever sell a kit with all these parts and an install document?
If not, is there a master list of all components needed so I can get all this ordered?
I’d totally buy this right now for three 6.7L trucks! Really great video, Thank you.
Fantastic information. I am getting a P0541 on my 2006 dodge ram 5.9, the so-called mechanic that fixed it, replaced the regulator and the check engine light went on 8 miles down the road. He actually zip tied the regulator on to the battery cable. Shoddy workmanship to say the least. Thank you. Whatever happened to real mechanics.
The easiest thing to do is to buy a kit from banks power Which has the upgraded Intake manifold. And the grid heater delete which does away with the grid heater completely and you will get more fuel mileage and more horse power out of the engine and its also e p a compliant and it also comes with a heater that goes into the intake manifold
Yes at the dealer if not under warranty I tell the customer to buy that and we can install it. If it’s under warranty I let them know there is a fix but they’d have to pay for those parts and we can do it under warranty that way.
Excellent video! Great job & thanks for the legwork.
Thanks for the reply!
I know this was 3 years ago but a list of parts needed would be great! This looks like a safe way to solve a huge problem
Greetings Chain, The parts are just some old grid resistors that were harvested from a failed grid heater plate. If you check the dumpster behind any large FCA dealer (especially in winter) you should be able to get a few burnt grid plates out of the dumpster. Each grid plate has two resistors in it. You will need both of the resistors.
The dummy load frame (mounted behind my fan) I got off Ebay.
www.ebay.com/itm/403192617742
Search on 5.9L Grid Heater Element and you will have a selection of frames and complete grids to choose from. For additional info logon to cumminsforum.com and search for posts by forum member Electrojake “Grid Heater” or P2609.
You can go the Banks Monster Ram route. It has the grid heater delete.
@@Electro489 Thanks for the quick reply! Much appreciated
thank you for taking your time!!!!! excellent description and photos!!!
Just buy the banks monster ram kit, it deletes the grid heater properly. Stop being cheap and just spend the $900 to save your Cummins. Pause at 7:18 You’re welcome
Looking forward to the new device. Going to see if they can just turn off my grid heater in my tune. I live in a warm climate and only see 25-32 degrees a few days a year.
very nice explanation and information
Thanks for liking.
Simple repair for a rare but costly problem.
@@Electro489 blessings
If someone were riding around town with a stuck grid heater relay coil, wouldn't they have the icon displayed on their dash? Some people may not pick up on this issue if it's displayed, but technically if that coil is energized constantly, that yellow icon should be displayed constantly as opposed to just momentarily during initial start up. I'm considering going to the grid heater delete with Banks Monster Ram Gen 2 mod.
No! The signal on the CAN bus (and on your dash) only shows what the PCM is sending out, NOT the true active state of the grid heater circuit. The Gen-4 Rams had a TSB issued several years back expressly because of the grid heater solenoid contacts getting welded shut (and staying on) even after the PCM went low on the intake air heater signal. The driver would be driving around all afternoon with full power to the grid heater even though these was no "on" signal being sent from the PCM. IMHO the red LED indicating grid heater power in my cab is crucial!
Sorry to go so long here but you should also be aware that ALL the gauges & indications on your dash are more or less fake. Oil pressure, volts, temp, etc... It has all been programmed to display what FCA "thinks" the driver wants to see and NOT reality. I could explain the reasons but I'm already way too long here. And thank you for asking the question.👍
@@Electro489 Thanks for the explaination. I know the dash indications aren't accurate given that they're digital. I've dealt with false indications from signal conditioners, transducers, and converter circuit cards. They'll tell you that you're lube oil is low, temp hi, etc and until you compare it to an analog gage; or another source local to the equipment (if you can see it). If the can bus isn't set up to show the error that the relay is on when it shouldn't be; that's a problem. There should be a timer that should elapse and if ithe heater is still energized; there should be a fault. However if you take one of the inputs to the can bus out; you get a fault. They've made vehicles more complicated than they need to be just by having a can bus. Even Harley Davidsons have a can bus.
@@a.r.o7697 100% Agreed. 👍
Back around 2013 I had a 155cc Yamaha Zuma that had a computerized ECU running things. Has a check engine light on the instrument cluster and all. 😆
7:20 the girl with the bong 🤣
Lots of great info!! Who's the girl smoking the bong! hahahahaha
It's my neighbor's daughter. And trust me Kevin... She's good to go!😛
Ineresting point at 7:17
Yea.... I have gotten codes for "Intake Air Heater High" on my work truck, and this makes me nervous as hell. Going to check the bolt for looseness first thing tomorrow. I tell you what: If you had a ready-made kit to solve this problem, I'd buy one in a heartbeat. And so would others! Go ahead and get one together, you'll sell plenty of them; I don't mind putting cash in your pocket for your intelligent analysis and solution!
* The small problem is: I could put together a kit with instructions but the cost of hand building them one at a time would be rather restrictive.
* The BIG problem is: The liability.
A sloppy or improper install by a user could possibly cause a fire. Also I am (slightly) altering the emissions system. Reducing grid current is very minor in the scheme of things but technically it does alter the stock emissions system and the EPA would hunt me down and fine me thousand$! Probably even give me jail time if they figured out I voted Republican in the last election.
@@Electro489 Understood, about the pitfalls and liabilities. This video may be enough for me to get something going which will work to ward off potential problems. With all of the electronics available to modern car companies, I don't know why Chrysler Corp fails to use a graduated level of power to the intake air heater. 225 amps is a LOT, way more than needed except in the coldest of air temperatures.
@@Electro489 I think this guy echos many of our thoughts. LOL
th-cam.com/video/1Zr1cg4AGf8/w-d-xo.html
Great information. I'm new to the Cummins so I'm soaking up as much information as I can. How did you wire in the LED to monitor the relay status? I'm planning on deleting the grid heater when I install the banks monster ram as it has a new style heater option.
It is simply a 12 VDC LED wired directly between battery negative & the grid heater stud that was shown in the jiggle test. And yes! The Gale Banks mod is expensive but an excellent way to protect your engine from a catastrophic failure. 👍
@@Electro489 You referring to the BANKS RAM air intake?
WOW, that is good info. Did you ever get the updated "module" for the battery to allow a total disconnect of the grid heater?
I never built the grid delete module since the analog (dummy load) device is working so well.
Got a P0542 code "Grid heater short circuit high". Any suggestions?
An easily resettable code. Can sometimes be fixed by removing/cleaning/replacing the thin wires on the grid heater relay.
I just had this exact same problem on the Cummins I currently working on. grid heater killer bolt came off from the inside, won't able to find the piece. we tried inspection camera, suitable magnet handle on each possible area, no luck. I just found the smashed bolt thread piece on #6 top of the piston, STILL CAN'T FIND THE NUT..
It is possible that the nut went out the exhaust valve. What a mess if it ends up in the turbocharger and damages that also.
I have a 2018 3500 ram diesel. I am wanting to take my grid heater out.
Your video is great. It looks like you have 2, 5.9 Cummins grid heaters as foolers. Am I correct?
Can you take some pictures of how you wired them up. 6.7 only has one wire going to the grid heater but the 5.9 has 2 I believe.
Thank you in advance.
Email me at electro.jake@verizon.net for info.
Did you manage to make a simpler device that would allows us to delete or disable the grid heater with a P2609 code. I'm trying to figure out a clever way of doing this with a local shop.
Was thinking it might be possible to somehow fool the truck into thinking it's warmer than it actually is (so the grid heater doesn't activate). At least not as much anyway. Might work for owners that live in warmer climates. Wondering if it would help to simply start the truck without waiting for the grid heater light to go out? Wondering if that action significantly reduces the grid heater on time, or does it continue heating after the truck is started anyway?
Really appreciate the video! I keep getting the 2609 code after I've been driving quite some time and it will sometimes turn itself off (at least according to the CEL). I've checked the death bolt for wobble and there is none, any suggestions on what might be wrong? I'm in central AZ hot as balls. Thank you!
For those of us in the Az desert, we should do the grid heater delete and mount the heater outside the engine to allow the computer to see it and not give a CEL.
So what do I do put a new bolt or what?
Hey what resistor do you use for this thanks for the advice.
awesome video love the knowledge but i dont think my 2012 has that battery module so im deleting my grid heater and installing the banks intake
would like some more details on the led for the relay though
@@philrettig4720 The LED simply connects between the grid heater stud on the engine and to the battery negative. If you buy an LED make sure it is rated to operate on 12 volts. Any time there is power on the grid the LED will light, this way you can be sure your grid heater power is not on when it should be off.
People that deleted their truck sometimes do a grid heater delete. Do they get this code or do the tuners turn that off.
Depends on where you live is what they say in the videos showing the delete. They say most scanners can reset the code.
My truck is throwing that code I'm getting ready to tear the truck apart . Did you ever make that voltage module for the battery?
No I did not since I have no need for it (yet).
Did you get the module worked out?
No, but I should since so many people ask for it.
I want to install a remote start. Would that be bad for my preheat starts in cold mornings?
The only remote start systems I have ever worked with are OEM (factory) so I have no clue as to how an after-market remote start would handle the grid heater cycle. However, it is my assumption that it would NOT cause any excessive burn time on the grids.
The big problems occur when people pre-heat their grids manually, especially if they do it repeatedly.
My advice: Install the remote start and you should be fine.
@@Electro489 I don't do a preheat, but very curious about that. Is that when you plug in to a 110 outlet. I live in NY and temps sometimes go to the single digits. I never plugged in I just use a thinner diesel motor oil for the winter months. that does fine with no start issues except adding anti gel additive at fill up during those months and never had an issue.
On cold weather morning starts, WATCH THE VOLTAGE GAUGE ⚡.
SHOULD BE 14 VOLTS ⚡.
The check engine light will stay on all the time?
Yes... if all you do is disconnect the grid heater wire.
I have a 2019 3500 dually and my battery kept dying so I did alternator and batteries. Then seen the wires from relay burning hot. Volts was 12.2 running so I disconnected that cable from battery to relay and my volts went to 14.0 and all wires were good. Should I leave it disconnected or what problem will I have
Leave it disconnected! I am not familiar with the Gen-5 trucks so I cant supply details but your running voltage should NOT be that low so yes, keep it disconnected until you find the issue.
Nice writeup
Hi I see its been 3 years since you made this, and you hinted around that you we're going to try
to make a plug and play box . Just wondered if you ever got it done and if it was for sale. Thanks
Hi Cooter, The dummy load device I installed on my old 2016 has been doing fine so I never got the motivation to build the electronic version of the Grid Heater Delete gadget. If I ever do a tune & delete on my 2016 I'll have to look into designing and building the plug & play gadget.🍺
Maybe an easier fix is to install a Banks Monster Ram that eliminates the grid heater entirely. And it’s 49/50 state compliant.
$$$ !
And problem solved.👍
Why can't you just remove the power wire to the grid heater is it really necessery?
With the grid heater disconnected You will eventually throw a P2609 code and an MIL on the dash. Note that the remote start will not function if you have an active MIL. Mechanically the grid heater is NOT needed. The truck will run fine without it.
Where did you get the resistor?
eBay. I'll see if I can find the link.
Did you ever complete your simple “defeat” device for the “smart” battery terminal? How much? I need one! Lol
No. My original "dummy load" invention has been working fine with no codes so I never moved forward with the second device.
What years is this exactly applicable to? Only 2010 and up or?
I mean by the bolt failure, 07-10 safe or are the prone to that grid heater failure also?
All Cummins 6.7L engines use this type of grid heater, however...
The specific engine destroying failures my video describes are for Mopar part number 68210071AA used in model years 2013 to 2021.
@@Electro489 awesome thanks for the info! Great video also, I went out and did the jiggle test and passed.
Hello, so just to calm my anxiety, The 2012 RAM 3500 doesn't need this MOD Right? I just bought my 2012 Ram 3500 longhorn with 130K miles on it back in March 2020. Thanks for the Info.
@@BlackRhyno17 i have an 08 6.7 and have the same issue. All 6.7s have this problem.
My relay stuck on so i removed the relay. So i have a CEL until i replace the relay.
Was a new part ever developed to purchase
Have you made the module
No Sir. The "dummy load" invention has been working fine so I never built the solid state unit.
This is a bit like the "killer dowel pin" in my old '94.
Or you could just buy the banks intake, elbow, which solve this problem all together
I already replaced the grid heater and the light still on
Happened to my 2022 6.7
Thanks for that info! Good to know that even the Gen-5 truck have the problem.
Why would you not just delete the stock grid heater, and tap in a Duramax intake heater into your intake and forget about all this extra clutter in your engine bay? Way easier and no more bolt going into your engine.
I agree. Please post us a link to the video of that setup on your truck.👍
glacier diesel air boss 67 grid delete, mega flow intake, and mega flow tvm grid heater. done.
Non diesel driver here.. what does a grid heater do?
The purpose of the grid heater is to warm the intake air going into the engine on cold winter days. The result is less white smoke on start-up. Be glad you have a gas truck. These diesels are an expensive pain in the ass.
If you get p2609, and keep driving, will it be harmful?
It "could" be. The first thing I would do is see if the power feed to that grid heater plate is loose. See the video at 1:12.
Who's the bong girl?
My neighbors daughter. Trust me... She's 'ready to go'
Delete the grid heater or disconnect the cable from grid heater and grid heater relay. Simple and easy. If you don’t live in the north you don’t need it.
Okay but you'll have a constant MIL lit on the dash for a non-re-settable P2609
Electro489 I prefer that then having to spend thousands of dollars on an engine
@@michelsanchez7057 In the big picture... I agree totally.
You can’t do remote start with a mil though.
I bought a Ram cus the good Reputation of its Cummins engine but in each video I watch is nothing but bad things,,,Damn,,,,
Actually you did buy the right truck...
If you had a Ford with the 6.7L Powerstroke you'd spend most of your time walking! 😆
There are two things to look out for on the Gen-4 Ram/Cummins trucks: Killer grid heater bolt and the killer rubber fan shroud issue. If you tow heavy in a hot climate then the fan shroud will get you. If you operate your truck in a cold climate and do lots of short trips then the grid heater will get you.
If i delete my truck, can i just unplug my heater?
Yes, disconnect power to grid. Once you have a delete & 'tune' there is no need to have a grid heater.
Why not just disconnect the grid heater from the coil it's connected to? You'll get a code, but the grid heater won't energize.
Because Remote Key Fob functions will be crippled if you do it that way. No more remote start, etc...
Good info, however there are no black helicopters here, so I’ll be ok.
There are two kinds of RAM/Cummins owners...
Those that say "it will never happen to me" and those that have had it happen and suffered the consequences of a blown engine.
All this fuckin around and worrying for something that has happened to maybe 50 trucks out of 100’s of thousands of trucks being sold. Lol.. I live in MN and my grid heater is in when it’s -30 for 40 seconds lol.. truck has 60,000 miles and 4 winters on it. If it was gonna happen to a lot of trucks it would happen to the guys in the north USA or Canada. Leave the truck the way it was designed..
There are two kinds of Cummins owners... Those that swear it will never happen to them, and those that had to drop $10,000+ on a new engine because they ate a grid heater stud.
I wish I knew that this was was going to happening, I had my engine destroyed. I wish i could after Chrysler and make them pay for the cost of the repair.
its bullshit they wont cover this
Best way to get rid of this problem is don’t buy a dogde in the first place
Let me correct that for you...
The best way to solve all vehicle reliability problems is to buy a gas powered engine. Modern emissions compliant diesels in today's market are complete garbage. Conversely, gas engines for small trucks (say under 15,000 GVWR) have greatly advanced in the last decade. Light diesel in today's market is a hobby and little more.
delete it! im not taking any chances