What needs to be taken into account that can’t be seen is what effect the grid heater has on combustion. When the grid heater is on the air is warmer and in the “zone” that diesel will combust the best in. When you don’t run a grid heater you have lots of cylinder wash from unburnt fuel. This is bad for 2 reasons, first faster oil dilution rate because more fuel is going by the piston and into the crank case, and second when that fuel “washes” down the cylinder it brings the oil with it meaning higher wear rates.
Just an idea if you want to be able to get rid of the grid heater and start easily try modify the intake to accept ford 7.3 super duty intake air heater. I believe they are quarter diameter about an 1 1/2 inches long. That might heat the air enough to start easily without the restrictions
I always loved the sound of a cold diesel. Something fun about imagining the engine warming up and knowing there is small little fist sized explosions making it that warm when it's that cold out. Cool stuff!
2:22 Cool. The rough idle sounds like it's due to cyclic misfire, where each cylinder has one or more misfires between each successful power cycle. Obviously, low temperatures slow down evaporation of sprayed diesel fuel. A cold, lean mixture is far less likely to ignite by compression. What's more difficult to explain, is why there is periodic successful ignition: 1) Intake and exhaust valves don't open and close at TDC and BDC, but instead have extended duration for effective scavenging at high engine speeds. At low rpm, excessive intake-valve duration causes partial regurgitation and reintake of intake charge. Similarly, excessive exhaust-valve duration causes partial reingestion of exhaust gasses at low rpm. 2) Excess liquid fuel collects on the piston and cylinder walls with each misfire cycle. As the surface area covered in liquid fuel increases, the evaporation rate increases. 3) The accumulation of incompressible liquid fuel effectively reduces combustion chamber size, increasing compression ratio. This raises the peak air temperature after compression, and broadens the range of ignitable air-fuel ratios (i.e. flammability limits). The combination of effects 1), 2), and 3) leads to a gradual increase in flammability from one power cycle to the next. This will approach a limit (asymptote), dictated by air/fuel/engine temperatures, and by the exhaust-rate of liquid fuel. Hopefully, liquid fuel gets exhausted before hydraulic lock occurs. Once ignition is successful, much of the heat produced is used to evaporate fuel in the cylinder and exhaust. This results in a very rich mixture with smoky afterburn. For this reason, the exhaust/turbocharger/cat will warmup much sooner than the engine.
my neighbors will love putting up with this every winter morning so I can have a wee skoochie bit better airflow. i dig your scientific method, good illustration.
@@Dropbackdurbin_ocs yeah 6.5s are idis. They heavily rely on glowplugs. Direct injection engines like a cummins are far superior at starting without anything but compression alone. Obviously the grid heaters help a lot. My little perkins ranger is a idi and it wont start in summer weather without a glow plug cycle lol.
Guys saying 7.3 struggling to cold start makes me lmao my 7.3 with over 500k fires right up in -40c without any issues as long as fuel and air intake heaters and glow plugs all work properly
Knowing full well what is happening to the engine, this is hands down my favorite cold start video! Love the truck, and the channel. Thanks for doing what you do!
I run 0W in the winter but realistically running synthetic is the biggest difference maker for oil in cold weather. Block heater is also the biggest help, especially in the last 3 weeks when we were -20 to -40 celsius.
It would flow better but I don't think it have the same effect on a Cummins or Duramax as it would with the old 7.3 and 6.0 Powerstroke. They depended on oil flow.
@CP Steve Miller You could throw a switch on the grid heater relays no problem. I can also disable the error code in tuning for you so no codes switching them off either.
@CP Steve Miller Yeah definitely a body issue, or simply connector tube needs to be torqued more. Needs to be fixed before doing any tuning. It will eventually hard start and then not start at all as the leak gets worse.
My grid heater isn’t hooked up and I know here in Montana that it will start at 0 but I plug my block heater in any way to save on my Single battery and starter! Great channel boys !
Really interesting video, not that I live somewhere where it gets cold, and I don't have a cummins anymore (both of mine had the grid heaters deleted) but was still interesting to watch.
Optimal Welding I couldn’t do it anymore. Every time I fixed something something else would break. Changed the trans cooler line which sucked because rust (weird to have a rusty vehicle when you live in Florida) then immediately after the fan clutch quit working. It had cut the wires. Put a new one on. Then it only turned on when the engine was cold. Changed the whole ac system. Then it wouldn’t work because the tipm was fried. Bypassed that with a relay. Two weeks later low Freon. Track down the leak. Change the high pressure switch. Then randomly developed a bigger leak. First Texas trip the alternator died 5 minutes into the 18 hour trip at 6am. Power outlets would randomly stop working. Etc. I was just over it. If it was a clean truck I would have been more inclined to throw money at it. But it wasn’t. The more I put in the less I was going to get out because of the rust. I really like the new dually. I’ve always wanted a dually on 22/24’s so it’s the first truck I’ve had where I really really like the look. Goal would be to build a 6.4 dually the same way with a p-pump 12v compounds and maybe a stick.
@@Taylordrifts Bummer, sucks to hear you had such bad luck with that truck. I hear ya, duallys on 22/24s is sick! I may take my 2012 megacab that route. Or convert to srw. Not sure yet. If you do end up throwing a cummins in the ford I highly recommend you consider using a 2003+ common rail engine. The wiring is no more complicated than doing an LS swap but will result in much more driveable truck. Way more power while still keeping it clean and quiet.
had a 2001 super duty 7.3 living in MD near PA and had a couple of really cold winters. Did some checking on how much the block heater made the meter on the house spin and put a timer on the block heater so it came on about an hour before I was ready to head off to work. Made a big difference in how the old ford started and had pretty much instant heat for the defrosters.
idk why the thought of removing the grid heater is even a thought up here in canada. My welding rig was stuck in fort mcmurray this winter at -40 for a few weeks, no plug ins. if i didnt have a grid heater it wouldnt have started and i wouldnt have made any money this winter lol
Used to run big diesel engines in tri-axle and eighteen wheeler... never had a grid heater and they always started..... if it's that key to get it to start easy just plug your block heater in.. been done that way for years....
I’m pretty sure when you do the complete cold start and it runs rough, that’s actually a design by Cummins. It’s running on 3 cylinders until the block is warm enough to fast idle. That’s where all the smoke is coming from and why is suddenly goes away after a few minutes.
I live in central Oklahoma. I removed the grid heater. Terrible mistake. Early model 03 5.9 Cummins. Did not want to start when it got below 40 degrees. The truck had 300k miles so there is a change it just had other issues.
I live in Minnesota and work for a delivery company. All our rigs have the 24v Cummins, mine has 260k miles. It gets so damn cold here in the winter, that you 100% need the block heater plugged in and grid heater operational. When the air temp is -20f, even my gasoline engine in my car starts hard.
@Bohappenstance Click I personally prefer the new ones mainly because the better lighting they provide. Haven't driven a vehicle with 4 bulbs as you say unless they are separate high and low setup. Our 09 express has the glass bulbs and the light output from 2 bulbs is terrible.
I'm from Wyoming and this past Christmas we had a - 45° F and with windchill it was 60 below zero my truck with grid heater and plugged in took almost a day to get started
Great test using the different cold start aids available to us, with similar temps...well done! Of the 'Cummins forums' that I am a member of and any others I could find, doing a search for 'grid heater restriction'...I found these 3 basic conversations; 1) plenty of guys simply say 'it's a restriction', but give no specifics, examples or data, either dyno results nor seat of the pants improvement by deleting. Yes, it is in the airflow, but what if they designed the tube to accommodate it's presence to start with? 2) some guys suggest that a delete would only show improvement in the high hp/tq game and pointed out that much more was to be gained by tuning either the mechanical 12 valve or the 24 valve CRs. 3) a few mechanics showed examples of grids clogging with soot, actually causing a legit restriction and a simple cleaning was the remedy. I have grid heaters and block heaters on both my Cummins, plugging in below 30F, as it gets to zeroF here in KY. I run a 12 v p-pump with modded fueling and noticed harder (took longer) starting only after bumping timing to 18 deg, at any temps. My 2003 CR starts well with minimal cranking even cold. I will inspect my grids next chance that intake horns come off...I am not chasing every last half horsepower...so mine will stay where they are. Keep the vids coming! This is one of my favorite channels now, right up there with Power Driven Diesel and FirePunk Diesel.
I live in Ontario and when it’s below -10c I plug it in and use my grid heaters. Starts good. Just warms up faster being plugging in. But I also have a 12 valve
Having a boost gauge before and after the grid heater in my buddies truck, we couldn't see even a fractional PSI higher before the grid vs after, up to 50 psi. Maybe if you were running like 150psi youd be able to see some difference, as it stands on sub like.. 1000hp trucks, I think there is near 0 to gain by removing it. Theres probably much worse sections of the intake system that could be remedied before the grid heater.
@@EvanWSH have to agree. The intake horn is much more restrictive than the grid heater anyways. Why most guys go to an aftermarket horn or a 2nd gen horn on a 3rd gen.
I think it was gale banks that claimed once that you gain about half psi of boost. if anybody knows it would be him. but unless youre running big numbers for competition I don't think its really worth the hard starts on a daily driver.
It's best to use the block heater when below 32 deg. Less stress on the batteries with or without the grid heater as you shown and all that smoke is COLD unburnt wet diesel from one or more cylinders until they start burning and firing correctly and then it levels out with a cold light smoke. Good test and good point. But best to use them both to save the battery life.
Have a 2000 and even at 30 deg with a bad grid heater it started just like yours. Like the video showing all three. Thanks. Headed out to replace mine today and hoping it's not the harness as well. We shall see.
Very good video. I’m running a custom 12valve tune on my 05 and the writer of the tune forgot to turn on grid heater within it. So I just keep my truck plugged in. But next week supposed to be in the teens so we will see. I might try it without anything. Thank you for this video!!!
It doesnt get as cold here in Pennsylvania as it does where you are but i kept my grid heater and i installed a block heater just to keep the old girl warm in the dead cold of winter, the past couple years its been more and more cold but less snow its weird haha we used to get tons of snow and it was cold but not like its been the past few winters so i got the old girl a new block heater and relays for the grid especially since shes got 340k and never given me any issues except a governor pressure solenoid and transducer and minor stuff but my 04 and my 03 have both been great to me so im taking the time and refreshing both trucks the 04 just got cab corners and rockers done and paint and now ehile the 03 goes under the knife im gonna start doing some upgrades to the 04 and im starting with your switch and tunes ive read a lot of great things about you and i cant wait to try it out for myself ❤ stay warm and ps i know this is an older video but i just found you a couple days ago and after we emailed back and forth i found your youtube so i came to watch some content and give ya a sub nothing major but if i can help someone doing great stuff in the community then i will ❤
Yah it starts. But why stress the engine when we have block heaters and grid heaters. Old time truckers would love to have the stuff we have now. That oil is like molasses. Id rather plug in and go
Imo unless you're trying for an all out 1000 hp build drag type truck why put that stress on the rotating mass of the motor and starter. Grid heater is better than glow plugs imo and no real reason not to run one in the event you're somewhere you cant plug the truck in at night like hunt camp or something. I consistently plug my truck in when it get to about 30* ish at night when I'm home and will drive the truck the following day. However hunt camp or even at work I cant plug the truck in so the grid heater is effective and efficient for quick non hard starts.
Batojiri1 the first time I looked straight down through it, I couldn’t see how the grid heater would be restriction. Like to take a veneerer measurement and see how much it is.
Great video for no grid required!👍 I agree. Just plug in the block heater if you live in those kind of winters...it's seems to start better in really cool temps with block heater than grid heater.
I really like the bed style on that truck. I don't want to be that guy that copies a youtubers truck, but damn i want it even though i have no use for it.
problem/difference is that the thermostat to turn on the grid heater is also adjusting the fuel/air mix because its cold and since the grid heater is not plugged in things arnt functioning as intended its not running smooth.. when the block heater is plugged in its already warm so doesnt need to kick in the grid heater..
Have a 21 6.7 Cummins looking to delete grid heater due to a recall they just came out with saying it’s causing vehicle fires and no fix has been found yet. I live in New Jersey where weather is really only cold 3 months out of the year. Wonder if it will do harm to my truck
OK, so now to really answer the question we need some dyno runs or 1/4 mile times with and without a grid heater installed or anything else that shows a clear advantage with the grid heater removed. Out of curiosity, what happens when you try to rev the engine a little on the bad starts? Does it clear up, stay the same or die? Here in MD, our temp varies a lot more than yours, it would be impossible to do that test well. We get 1-3 mornings a year as cold or a degree or 2 colder than your coldest tests but then we'll get a 60-70*F day a day or 2 later (maybe 50*F in the morning). Most winter mornings we end up in the 25-40*F range, and I typically try to have my truck plugged in overnight if it's going to be in the 20's, but even if it starts OK I'm not going to risk the extra cylinder wear if I can't prove an advantage to having it removed.
tham moment when your duramax has a grid heater a fuel heater and glow plugs and at -40 it fires right up, but the draw on the shitty battier connections that gm's have is terrible, set a few of them on fire.
The grid heater can induce pumping losses on the engine. It is an additional restriction in the intake pipe that will stay on during summers, when you don't really need help starting. Block heaters meanwhile, can be used selectively in winters, without the added fuel economy penalty during normal running, as long as you have access to power from the grid.
what would be the hp gain from deleting the grid heaters..... I remember my dad plugging the truck in when he first got it back in 1999, dodge ram 3500 24 valve, and waiting for all the lights on the dash to go off before starting. He is in Cail does not get that cold...
I have wondered about having dual grid heaters side by side to double flow with cold starts intact. I have been thinking about doing something like that dual intake horn that banks has with two heaters. I have seen as low as -40F here so there's no way I'm deleting the grid because I need it to work great every day. I have my grid wired to a momentary button also so I can hold the button a little longer than it would normally run or less when it's not as cold.
Mine's a Dmax LB7 with about 70k on it, and I almost always plug it in below 30deg F. As long as the batteries are good, it starts just fine regardless, but I don't see the point in adding wear and tear when it's got the block heater. Plug in your trucks. 😝
My 2012 Ram Cummins didn't like the temps we had on the 8th of Feb. 43 below zero (-41.6 C) it ran, but even with winterized #2 mixed 50/50 with #1 and the fuel heater it was still gelling up. (It started just fine)
All you need is the block heater in cooler temps for the 5.9. Yes, the grid heater helps a little but but the grid heater was mainly thrown on the Cummins Dodges to satisfy EPA nutjobs for emissions at that time. The ''industrial Cummins'' at that time that went into buses, generators, boats, farm equipment, etc didn't have them even though it was the same engine.
I have Diesel engines in my construction dozer...backhoe...dump truck and excavator...none have heaters or glow plugs...but I was told by old Russian...as soon as it makes smoke...let it sit and Absorb the heat..then start...it’s counter productive to just keep cranking
If you want to get rid of the grid heater just add a ether aid system on a push button like the old cat equipment had. Nowadays the ether aid is electronically controlled but the old stuff was a push button.
@@punkrocker10115 out here in the real world ether is super common in industry, mining, and places where it's cold. Its not good to drown them but the systems like what cat uses are metered through nozzles.
@@sogyseal7962 that doesn't apply to these cummins though. That's why there is a BIG sticker that says not use ether. For industrial machines it's perfectly ok
Well, since there not massive engines I think you can get away without a grid heater, but the quickest way to start a cold diesel is to feed it hot, or proplane burn air. Anyways nice video
Anyone know why the 5.9 Cummins engines lope and smoke like that for the first 30 seconds after startup and then suddenly idle normally? I have seen several of them do this and don't know why.
paintslayer1995 I did not. As long as ur not running large injectors, or have ur timing advanced past like 17* you shouldn’t have an issue. If I go up to Tahoe in winter I’ll plug in the block heater, but that’s about it.
N-14's act the same way as when you start with no grid or block heater. They'll try and shake you out of the cab till they catch and smooth out. We get about a million miles between inframes,so I don't think it really hurts em.
I've had my grid deleted for YEARS. just plug her in when cold. With a aftermarket intake horn installed and grid heater delete, I pick up some mpg unloaded.
My 03 has never had a grid heater the 8 years I’ve had it and it starts no problem at all. I’ve started it -10 not plugged in. But I also can’t nurse batteries along like the truck in the video. I keep good hot batteries.
If the compression is good enough to generate heat inside the cylinder, then you dont need an external heat source. Tractor trucks dont have either, and they start just fine. i Have a 2006 jetta with a tdi with over 200k miles on the odometer and i disconnected the glow plugs and did a cold start at 10 degrees F and it fired up.
Two thoughts, one why not put it on a switch to save the hassle of the plugging drama, 2 if the coil is causing a huge back pressure issue. Why not design a less resistant design and market it. But put a differential gauge on both sides of the coil to prove your point.
New meaning of living off the grid.
Gold.
What needs to be taken into account that can’t be seen is what effect the grid heater has on combustion. When the grid heater is on the air is warmer and in the “zone” that diesel will combust the best in. When you don’t run a grid heater you have lots of cylinder wash from unburnt fuel. This is bad for 2 reasons, first faster oil dilution rate because more fuel is going by the piston and into the crank case, and second when that fuel “washes” down the cylinder it brings the oil with it meaning higher wear rates.
Yup exactly. The engine would wear considerably faster cold starting without grids all winter than it would with them.
Just an idea if you want to be able to get rid of the grid heater and start easily try modify the intake to accept ford 7.3 super duty intake air heater. I believe they are quarter diameter about an 1 1/2 inches long. That might heat the air enough to start easily without the restrictions
lol I must be the luckiest guy in the world I live in ohio and my 01 has 240,000 miles on it and has not had a grid heater since day 1
Grid heater, oil pan heater, battery heater, fuel heater, block heater. All this would allow instant starts well into the negative temperatures.
@@xc8487 Also known as a "garage"
When its negative 16 an you find out she's home alone..
I always loved the sound of a cold diesel. Something fun about imagining the engine warming up and knowing there is small little fist sized explosions making it that warm when it's that cold out. Cool stuff!
Can a Cummins start without a starter?
Tune in next time to find out.
Damn your fine !
Yes it can.
I’ll start you with out my starter and Cummins
Bump start a Manual, yes
Yeah bro it'll start.
2:22 Cool. The rough idle sounds like it's due to cyclic misfire, where each cylinder has one or more misfires between each successful power cycle. Obviously, low temperatures slow down evaporation of sprayed diesel fuel. A cold, lean mixture is far less likely to ignite by compression. What's more difficult to explain, is why there is periodic successful ignition:
1) Intake and exhaust valves don't open and close at TDC and BDC, but instead have extended duration for effective scavenging at high engine speeds. At low rpm, excessive intake-valve duration causes partial regurgitation and reintake of intake charge. Similarly, excessive exhaust-valve duration causes partial reingestion of exhaust gasses at low rpm.
2) Excess liquid fuel collects on the piston and cylinder walls with each misfire cycle. As the surface area covered in liquid fuel increases, the evaporation rate increases.
3) The accumulation of incompressible liquid fuel effectively reduces combustion chamber size, increasing compression ratio. This raises the peak air temperature after compression, and broadens the range of ignitable air-fuel ratios (i.e. flammability limits).
The combination of effects 1), 2), and 3) leads to a gradual increase in flammability from one power cycle to the next. This will approach a limit (asymptote), dictated by air/fuel/engine temperatures, and by the exhaust-rate of liquid fuel. Hopefully, liquid fuel gets exhausted before hydraulic lock occurs.
Once ignition is successful, much of the heat produced is used to evaporate fuel in the cylinder and exhaust. This results in a very rich mixture with smoky afterburn. For this reason, the exhaust/turbocharger/cat will warmup much sooner than the engine.
Should we get Gale Banks to do a comparison of pressure drop over the grid heater just like diff covers?
Yess I was just watching these
Because this is retarded. At best you're gaining .025 hp for I DeLeTeD mY gRiDhEaTeR nEpHsOn YeE yEe
@@BiggusDickus2 thats what my Duncle Wayne told me lol
Haha if it is an issue, why not build an intake stub with 2 heaters side by side , kinda like sorta know what I mean ?
That’ll flow enough air.
Lmao banks is the shit.
Tune in next week when we try to start my truck without fuel.
Seems legit
Omg I can't stop smiling about this,,, this comment is so funny!!! Thank you so much for the great Joy this morning!
my neighbors will love putting up with this every winter morning so I can have a wee skoochie bit better airflow. i dig your scientific method, good illustration.
-16 there and somewhere it’s 35 and a 7.3 is hooked to its umbilical cord still struggling to start 😂😂
Tom Ondrek my buddy’s 6.5 was struggling to start at 50 degrees lol
@@Dropbackdurbin_ocs yeah 6.5s are idis. They heavily rely on glowplugs. Direct injection engines like a cummins are far superior at starting without anything but compression alone. Obviously the grid heaters help a lot. My little perkins ranger is a idi and it wont start in summer weather without a glow plug cycle lol.
Guys saying 7.3 struggling to cold start makes me lmao my 7.3 with over 500k fires right up in -40c without any issues as long as fuel and air intake heaters and glow plugs all work properly
Knowing full well what is happening to the engine, this is hands down my favorite cold start video! Love the truck, and the channel. Thanks for doing what you do!
One thing that helps with cold starts is using 5w40 instead of 15w40.
-15w40 would be great.
I run 0W in the winter but realistically running synthetic is the biggest difference maker for oil in cold weather. Block heater is also the biggest help, especially in the last 3 weeks when we were -20 to -40 celsius.
CalgaryDynastar where I’m at we usually don’t get much colder than -10 c so for me 5w is plenty good. And yes a block heater makes a HUGE difference!
It would flow better but I don't think it have the same effect on a Cummins or Duramax as it would with the old 7.3 and 6.0 Powerstroke. They depended on oil flow.
@@bryanmartinez6600 it would definitely have a large affect.
All that slow cranking is from.the oil still being thick.
And this is why grids are nice to have
@CP Steve Miller You could throw a switch on the grid heater relays no problem. I can also disable the error code in tuning for you so no codes switching them off either.
@CP Steve Miller It doesn't give you a dead pedal with p1222 or p1223?
@CP Steve Miller Yeah definitely a body issue, or simply connector tube needs to be torqued more. Needs to be fixed before doing any tuning. It will eventually hard start and then not start at all as the leak gets worse.
@CP Steve Miller just use a relay on a toggle switch to cut power when needed. Not sure what size that circuit needs, but that's what I would do.
What about disabling the Grid heater to jump start, when the engine is warm turn it off, enable the Grid heaters again and start it up?
My grid heater isn’t hooked up and I know here in Montana that it will start at 0 but I plug my block heater in any way to save on my Single battery and starter! Great channel boys !
Really interesting video, not that I live somewhere where it gets cold, and I don't have a cummins anymore (both of mine had the grid heaters deleted) but was still interesting to watch.
I cant believe you got rid of that 3rd gen megacab for a ford!!! That was a nice truck
Optimal Welding I couldn’t do it anymore. Every time I fixed something something else would break. Changed the trans cooler line which sucked because rust (weird to have a rusty vehicle when you live in Florida) then immediately after the fan clutch quit working. It had cut the wires. Put a new one on. Then it only turned on when the engine was cold. Changed the whole ac system. Then it wouldn’t work because the tipm was fried. Bypassed that with a relay. Two weeks later low Freon. Track down the leak. Change the high pressure switch. Then randomly developed a bigger leak. First Texas trip the alternator died 5 minutes into the 18 hour trip at 6am. Power outlets would randomly stop working. Etc. I was just over it. If it was a clean truck I would have been more inclined to throw money at it. But it wasn’t. The more I put in the less I was going to get out because of the rust.
I really like the new dually. I’ve always wanted a dually on 22/24’s so it’s the first truck I’ve had where I really really like the look. Goal would be to build a 6.4 dually the same way with a p-pump 12v compounds and maybe a stick.
@@Taylordrifts Bummer, sucks to hear you had such bad luck with that truck.
I hear ya, duallys on 22/24s is sick! I may take my 2012 megacab that route. Or convert to srw. Not sure yet.
If you do end up throwing a cummins in the ford I highly recommend you consider using a 2003+ common rail engine. The wiring is no more complicated than doing an LS swap but will result in much more driveable truck. Way more power while still keeping it clean and quiet.
@@Taylordrifts this didnt age well lmao.
Has anyone ever flow tested a grid heater to see how restrictive they are? Excellent video as always. Thanks
I would check out some of Banks videos, since they make the Monster Ram intake and love show boating flow charts. :)
That's a cool welding rig setup. I like it!
had a 2001 super duty 7.3 living in MD near PA and had a couple of really cold winters. Did some checking on how much the block heater made the meter on the house spin and put a timer on the block heater so it came on about an hour before I was ready to head off to work. Made a big difference in how the old ford started and had pretty much instant heat for the defrosters.
I didn't realize how great this video would be. Thanks
idk why the thought of removing the grid heater is even a thought up here in canada. My welding rig was stuck in fort mcmurray this winter at -40 for a few weeks, no plug ins. if i didnt have a grid heater it wouldnt have started and i wouldnt have made any money this winter lol
That was a really educational video! Great set of tests!
Used to run big diesel engines in tri-axle and eighteen wheeler... never had a grid heater and they always started..... if it's that key to get it to start easy just plug your block heater in.. been done that way for years....
I’m pretty sure when you do the complete cold start and it runs rough, that’s actually a design by Cummins. It’s running on 3 cylinders until the block is warm enough to fast idle. That’s where all the smoke is coming from and why is suddenly goes away after a few minutes.
That was from 98.5-02 cummins only 3 cyl high idle.
I live in central Oklahoma. I removed the grid heater. Terrible mistake. Early model 03 5.9 Cummins. Did not want to start when it got below 40 degrees. The truck had 300k miles so there is a change it just had other issues.
I live in Minnesota and work for a delivery company. All our rigs have the 24v Cummins, mine has 260k miles. It gets so damn cold here in the winter, that you 100% need the block heater plugged in and grid heater operational. When the air temp is -20f, even my gasoline engine in my car starts hard.
I seriously wish they would get rid of those gas struts and go back to the spring type hood assist.
@Bohappenstance Click if it's a Chevy nope they burn those out for some reason
@Bohappenstance Click I personally prefer the new ones mainly because the better lighting they provide.
Haven't driven a vehicle with 4 bulbs as you say unless they are separate high and low setup.
Our 09 express has the glass bulbs and the light output from 2 bulbs is terrible.
I'm from Wyoming and this past Christmas we had a - 45° F and with windchill it was 60 below zero my truck with grid heater and plugged in took almost a day to get started
Great test using the different cold start aids available to us, with similar temps...well done!
Of the 'Cummins forums' that I am a member of and any others I could find, doing a search for 'grid heater restriction'...I found these 3 basic conversations;
1) plenty of guys simply say 'it's a restriction', but give no specifics, examples or data, either dyno results nor seat of the pants improvement by deleting. Yes, it is in the airflow, but what if they designed the tube to accommodate it's presence to start with?
2) some guys suggest that a delete would only show improvement in the high hp/tq game and pointed out that much more was to be gained by tuning either the mechanical 12 valve or the 24 valve CRs.
3) a few mechanics showed examples of grids clogging with soot, actually causing a legit restriction and a simple cleaning was the remedy.
I have grid heaters and block heaters on both my Cummins, plugging in below 30F, as it gets to zeroF here in KY. I run a 12 v p-pump with modded fueling and noticed harder (took longer) starting only after bumping timing to 18 deg, at any temps. My 2003 CR starts well with minimal cranking even cold. I will inspect my grids next chance that intake horns come off...I am not chasing every last half horsepower...so mine will stay where they are. Keep the vids coming! This is one of my favorite channels now, right up there with Power Driven Diesel and FirePunk Diesel.
Very informative ! Proud texan's resident here lol
Ahhh multiple cold starts.
Thanks
I live in Ontario and when it’s below -10c I plug it in and use my grid heaters. Starts good. Just warms up faster being plugging in. But I also have a 12 valve
Naw you don't need a grid heater. Just an extra starter, and batteries on hand for backups..
I’d be curious to see the cfm difference of a intake with a grid vs a delete block on a flow bench, how much restriction is it causing.
I would also be very interested to see those results.
Having a boost gauge before and after the grid heater in my buddies truck, we couldn't see even a fractional PSI higher before the grid vs after, up to 50 psi. Maybe if you were running like 150psi youd be able to see some difference, as it stands on sub like.. 1000hp trucks, I think there is near 0 to gain by removing it. Theres probably much worse sections of the intake system that could be remedied before the grid heater.
@@EvanWSH Very interesting, thanks for sharing your results.
@@EvanWSH have to agree. The intake horn is much more restrictive than the grid heater anyways. Why most guys go to an aftermarket horn or a 2nd gen horn on a 3rd gen.
I think it was gale banks that claimed once that you gain about half psi of boost. if anybody knows it would be him. but unless youre running big numbers for competition I don't think its really worth the hard starts on a daily driver.
My 95 Cummins (with 100hp over injectors) starts easier than that at 23*F, but I also double-cycle the grid heater for ease of starting.
Yup.. That "fired right up" and kept on running... Ahem... :D
Nice Test... i think mine would probably act very similar to yours... -20 every morning here in Calgary lately so i plug it and use the grid heater:)
3 weeks ago I was at -15 Fahrenheit only block heaters on three Diesel engines all started perfectly every time
ohhh yeee heard that injection timing xD, i like the first go around when she comes out of the lope when the cylinders have some heat in them
It's best to use the block heater when below 32 deg. Less stress on the batteries with or without the grid heater as you shown and all that smoke is COLD unburnt wet diesel from one or more cylinders until they start burning and firing correctly and then it levels out with a cold light smoke. Good test and good point. But best to use them both to save the battery life.
Have a 2000 and even at 30 deg with a bad grid heater it started just like yours. Like the video showing all three. Thanks. Headed out to replace mine today and hoping it's not the harness as well. We shall see.
Very good video. I’m running a custom 12valve tune on my 05 and the writer of the tune forgot to turn on grid heater within it. So I just keep my truck plugged in. But next week supposed to be in the teens so we will see. I might try it without anything. Thank you for this video!!!
logging equipment 30 years ago with the 5.9 cummins had NO grid heater, with good batteries they would rotate 2 or 3 times then run even at 10F.
It doesnt get as cold here in Pennsylvania as it does where you are but i kept my grid heater and i installed a block heater just to keep the old girl warm in the dead cold of winter, the past couple years its been more and more cold but less snow its weird haha we used to get tons of snow and it was cold but not like its been the past few winters so i got the old girl a new block heater and relays for the grid especially since shes got 340k and never given me any issues except a governor pressure solenoid and transducer and minor stuff but my 04 and my 03 have both been great to me so im taking the time and refreshing both trucks the 04 just got cab corners and rockers done and paint and now ehile the 03 goes under the knife im gonna start doing some upgrades to the 04 and im starting with your switch and tunes ive read a lot of great things about you and i cant wait to try it out for myself ❤ stay warm and ps i know this is an older video but i just found you a couple days ago and after we emailed back and forth i found your youtube so i came to watch some content and give ya a sub nothing major but if i can help someone doing great stuff in the community then i will ❤
Please up upload more. Your literally my favorite youtuber and I've watched damn near every one of your vids. Even once a week would be awesome🙏
I got some stuff on the go, lots of vids coming!
Turn key, hold wide open on RPM Governor, warms up super good😉 👍
Yah it starts. But why stress the engine when we have block heaters and grid heaters. Old time truckers would love to have the stuff we have now. That oil is like molasses. Id rather plug in and go
Imo unless you're trying for an all out 1000 hp build drag type truck why put that stress on the rotating mass of the motor and starter. Grid heater is better than glow plugs imo and no real reason not to run one in the event you're somewhere you cant plug the truck in at night like hunt camp or something. I consistently plug my truck in when it get to about 30* ish at night when I'm home and will drive the truck the following day. However hunt camp or even at work I cant plug the truck in so the grid heater is effective and efficient for quick non hard starts.
Yeah glow plugs are junk. I've never seen a Ford that's never had a glow plug problem.
Diesels are nothing more than big needy babies... Titty babies that is...
@@MLGtroll365 amen
@@MLGtroll365 now go for your daily gasoline run
A true cold start there boys!
Would love to see a comparison on a dyno. Thanks for sharing.
0 difference, the grid heater is not a restriction.
Batojiri1 the first time I looked straight down through it, I couldn’t see how the grid heater would be restriction. Like to take a veneerer measurement and see how much it is.
Great video for no grid required!👍 I agree. Just plug in the block heater if you live in those kind of winters...it's seems to start better in really cool temps with block heater than grid heater.
Your not doing your engine any favors lots of raw fuel washing down the cylinders.
I gotta say I love powerstrokes but the sound of that Cummins cold starting is bad ass!
I really like the bed style on that truck. I don't want to be that guy that copies a youtubers truck, but damn i want it even though i have no use for it.
What a great video and experiment. Thank you for taking the time to sure great information. I learned a lot from the video.
Love the high clearance welding bed!
problem/difference is that the thermostat to turn on the grid heater is also adjusting the fuel/air mix because its cold and since the grid heater is not plugged in things arnt functioning as intended its not running smooth.. when the block heater is plugged in its already warm so doesnt need to kick in the grid heater..
Have a 21 6.7 Cummins looking to delete grid heater due to a recall they just came out with saying it’s causing vehicle fires and no fix has been found yet. I live in New Jersey where weather is really only cold 3 months out of the year. Wonder if it will do harm to my truck
reminds me of starting a m60 tank in the cold keep them running it a diesel start it once its all good
OK, so now to really answer the question we need some dyno runs or 1/4 mile times with and without a grid heater installed or anything else that shows a clear advantage with the grid heater removed.
Out of curiosity, what happens when you try to rev the engine a little on the bad starts? Does it clear up, stay the same or die?
Here in MD, our temp varies a lot more than yours, it would be impossible to do that test well. We get 1-3 mornings a year as cold or a degree or 2 colder than your coldest tests but then we'll get a 60-70*F day a day or 2 later (maybe 50*F in the morning). Most winter mornings we end up in the 25-40*F range, and I typically try to have my truck plugged in overnight if it's going to be in the 20's, but even if it starts OK I'm not going to risk the extra cylinder wear if I can't prove an advantage to having it removed.
When I did a grid delete on my 6.7 I picked up several mpg and a lot of throttle response
@@wizard_of_poz4413 did you just delete the grid with the stock intake or was that swapped?
I love haveing my heaters in and plugged in even when its not very cold. Easy start no smoke and the beast is almost warmed up.
Yup block heater keeps coolant temp @ 40c/100f so you get heat right away. I always plug in if possible.
@@Cumminslife awesome video like always btw
tham moment when your duramax has a grid heater a fuel heater and glow plugs and at -40 it fires right up, but the draw on the shitty battier connections that gm's have is terrible, set a few of them on fire.
-50, hit the key in my Gas car and it fires right up. Shitty little Diesels.
Do you not have 2 batts?
The stock side posts in the GM give better contact that top posts. Facts.
@@zuestoots5176 my hydrogen rockets lifted me off the surface of the moon @ -300 degrees. Any engine that runs "Dinosaur Squeezins" is caveman tech.
@@kelceyk8199 lol what planet you come from
Love the content you're putting out... keep up the good work and you have some badass builds
Fun test... Wish you send some of that cold here to Arizona... Haha
As a freight liner tech, yes it does between an isx15 and dd15
That bed is dope
The mother of all cold starts.
The grid heater can induce pumping losses on the engine. It is an additional restriction in the intake pipe that will stay on during summers, when you don't really need help starting. Block heaters meanwhile, can be used selectively in winters, without the added fuel economy penalty during normal running, as long as you have access to power from the grid.
My 12v didn't start at neg - 13. Plugged it started right up. Chicago. 20 it starts right up unplugged.
what would be the hp gain from deleting the grid heaters..... I remember my dad plugging the truck in when he first got it back in 1999, dodge ram 3500 24 valve, and waiting for all the lights on the dash to go off before starting. He is in Cail does not get that cold...
Removed mine and got 2mpg more. It's approximately a 17% gain in air flow! Cold nights block heater is all you need!
Coolest "flat" bed I've seen by FAR. 👍
Cylinder wash with fuel is hilarious 😂
I have wondered about having dual grid heaters side by side to double flow with cold starts intact. I have been thinking about doing something like that dual intake horn that banks has with two heaters. I have seen as low as -40F here so there's no way I'm deleting the grid because I need it to work great every day. I have my grid wired to a momentary button also so I can hold the button a little longer than it would normally run or less when it's not as cold.
Mine's a Dmax LB7 with about 70k on it, and I almost always plug it in below 30deg F. As long as the batteries are good, it starts just fine regardless, but I don't see the point in adding wear and tear when it's got the block heater. Plug in your trucks. 😝
Ted Bownas
If you’re a 9-5er you can put it on a timer too.
Kick it on a couple of hours before the rat race.
My 2012 Ram Cummins didn't like the temps we had on the 8th of Feb. 43 below zero (-41.6 C) it ran, but even with winterized #2 mixed 50/50 with #1 and the fuel heater it was still gelling up. (It started just fine)
All you need is the block heater in cooler temps for the 5.9. Yes, the grid heater helps a little but but the grid heater was mainly thrown on the Cummins Dodges to satisfy EPA nutjobs for emissions at that time. The ''industrial Cummins'' at that time that went into buses, generators, boats, farm equipment, etc didn't have them even though it was the same engine.
I deleted my Grid Heater because of the Amp draw at startup. Block heater is all you need.
This is exactly what I needed to know thanks for the great video
I have Diesel engines in my construction dozer...backhoe...dump truck and excavator...none have heaters or glow plugs...but I was told by old Russian...as soon as it makes smoke...let it sit and Absorb the heat..then start...it’s counter productive to just keep cranking
Yes please everyone use what is designed to help the engine preform at it's best and enjoy
If you want to get rid of the grid heater just add a ether aid system on a push button like the old cat equipment had. Nowadays the ether aid is electronically controlled but the old stuff was a push button.
Nooooo. Ether is VERY bad for common rail turbo diesels!
@@punkrocker10115 out here in the real world ether is super common in industry, mining, and places where it's cold. Its not good to drown them but the systems like what cat uses are metered through nozzles.
@@sogyseal7962 that doesn't apply to these cummins though. That's why there is a BIG sticker that says not use ether. For industrial machines it's perfectly ok
@@punkrocker10115 I dont see why it wouldnt be ok of you took out the grid heater. Theres no glow plugs so ether it up!
Injector tips...
Put the damn heater back on.
I asked a question about your airbag install on your Texas pipeline bed build if you could check it out and let me know.
Where we are at i can be as low as minus 40°f and all we have to do is cycle glow plugs
Hi a little off topic of your video. Could you tell me about your bed. Is that something you put together or did you buy it. Thanks
Love your content. You should def do a lot more.
Well, since there not massive engines I think you can get away without a grid heater, but the quickest way to start a cold diesel is to feed it hot, or proplane burn air. Anyways nice video
Anyone know why the 5.9 Cummins engines lope and smoke like that for the first 30 seconds after startup and then suddenly idle normally? I have seen several of them do this and don't know why.
God damn that looks cold. I removed mine for a couple different reasons. But I live in ca where I don’t have to worry about cold starts.
T bone even when we were getting in the 30’s at night did you have any trouble?
paintslayer1995
I did not. As long as ur not running large injectors, or have ur timing advanced past like 17* you shouldn’t have an issue. If I go up to Tahoe in winter I’ll plug in the block heater, but that’s about it.
Awesome thank you for the reply man
paintslayer1995 🇺🇸
N-14's act the same way as when you start with no grid or block heater. They'll try and shake you out of the cab till they catch and smooth out. We get about a million miles between inframes,so I don't think it really hurts em.
I've had my grid deleted for YEARS.
just plug her in when cold.
With a aftermarket intake horn installed and grid heater delete, I pick up some mpg unloaded.
My 03 has never had a grid heater the 8 years I’ve had it and it starts no problem at all. I’ve started it -10 not plugged in. But I also can’t nurse batteries along like the truck in the video. I keep good hot batteries.
1:47 I like that gasser
Nice video and test 👍
Here in Europe I don’t need the grid heather at all... I always delete them.
Come to Finland in the winter time..
Theviahuh1999 hahaha...yes you are right ! For sure it it’s absolutely could in Finland.
I should better say Germany or south of France...😅
@@Theviahuh I was just about comment "come to northern Sweden and try..."
😂
Dont know what's happening today, but I'm in.
love your bed design
My grid heater doesn’t work I just plug my block in if it’s gonna get below freezing starts good every day has for about the last 5 years
If the compression is good enough to generate heat inside the cylinder, then you dont need an external heat source. Tractor trucks dont have either, and they start just fine. i Have a 2006 jetta with a tdi with over 200k miles on the odometer and i disconnected the glow plugs and did a cold start at 10 degrees F and it fired up.
At which temperature grid heater start working and how long it will work....answer please....
Having my grid heater functional on my big air compressors is a night and day difference when starting cold.
Two thoughts, one why not put it on a switch to save the hassle of the plugging drama, 2 if the coil is causing a huge back pressure issue. Why not design a less resistant design and market it. But put a differential gauge on both sides of the coil to prove your point.