Thank you for taking the time to make this great video . I know it’s 4 years later now but you saved me a lot of time winters coming and I’m not a commentator on TH-cam. I felt like you needed to know. I appreciate your help
Thanks for the info! I drive a 2000 - 2500 and it always started perfectly until the other day on a cold start. I began to search for possible reasons it was acting up and looked for someone that could clearly show the grid heater. I was unaware of the relays that power the heater itself your video was very clear and helped alot.
Thanks for the nice comment Joe. Let me know if you have any issues. My truck would have a blue haze at idle when cold and smoke a lot. That diesel smoke that stings your eyes. Now with the grid heaters working again it starts instant and no idle haze. You can see them cycle your battery gauge will drop significantly.
Great video thanks. Bought my first Cummins last week and got the code. Going out to probe and confirm it’s the relays tomorrow. Thanks heaps for making this simple to check.
thank you for uploading this. There aren't many on replacing them. I just replaced my relay today. some people claim this system is for reducing emissions and it doesn't aid in the starting process... all I know is that there is a big difference when I start my truck with a properly functioning grid heater. very detailed video.
The haters will hate! Haha! If you think it through, a cold starting diesel will make a lot of garbage until they get warm. whether it be unburned diesel or black carbon soot. Regardless of "emissions", these products are in your combustion chamber and likely will have to go through your turbo and may end up in your oil pan as well. Your oil doesn't get black "just because" it's a diesel.
@@TubeInspire My truck was having a hard time starting when it was very cold. This was my first winter with this truck. I bought the truck last spring. I tried using the block heater but it still struggled to start when it was very cold. I then did some research which led me to learn about the grid heater system on these Cummins diesel engines. I tested the heater relays (solenoids) and confirmed that mine weren't working..... If your starter isn't even cranking when you turn the key, I'd start by testing the battery, ground connections and relays. I'd even test the smaller wire on the starter to see if it is getting voltage when the key is turned in the ignition switch. You will probably need another person to help you with this
@@DuellingMarshalls thank you for advice! I have been doing some research myself, I will definitely test voltage on starter in solenoids Thank you for your feedback 🙏
I recently diagnosed mine as a bad relay/solenoid. On the grid heater positive side, one terminal showed 12.8 volts, the other .2. Fusible link between the battery and relays is good, grid heater itself isn’t open. I had continuity between both grounds and both positive terminals on the heater.
THANKS BRO FOR SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE,.AND I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT MY TRUCK DODGE RAM 3500/2001/5.9/DIESEL THE WIRES COMES FROM THE SELENOIDE TO THE (+) BATTERY IT MELTDOWN COULD YOU TELL ME IF THE SELENOIDE IS BAD OR SOMETHING ELSE WRONG., THANK YOU.
Thanks steve! I am in the process of mechanically restoring the truck and cleaning the years of oil spray off of it this summer. Hopefully paint in the next couple years. My brother is not much for mechanics. He loves cars and everything so i am teaching him the best i can.
Relay vs Solenoid. Well old people like me call them solenoid as we started with old ones on Ford cars and tractors etc. There's also the starter mounted solenoid that mechanically activated the starter. A (n electrical) relay is more of a functional term where a low amperage signal is used to activate a device to run a higher amp circuit. I believe some relays may contain more "stuff" than just the "solenoid". A solenoid then is the electrical winding device within the relay that typically acts on a steel stem to move it and close points or move a lever. One of my first experiences with a "relay" was a horn relay. who wants all those amps going through your steering wheel. Then came the electric fan "relay" Wow! Look at that! an electric fan to cool the radiator because they turned the engine sideways. We thought "how stupid" and "why did they have to change things". So I digress. To summarize a Relay is the function and the whole device, a Solenoid is the actual winding mechanism with typically a steel plunger in the center. Haha! There is a man at my door in a white suit that wants me to go for a ride with him... Says its a special hospital and I will be able to relax. Haha!
Hahaha well explained. If they aren’t a little square box and are anything with 2 big studs and 2 little studs i always call them solenoid’s. I’m old school.
Great video . Does it matter on the two small gauge ,plug in connectors which ones you plug them into?? I know the colored ones are for the ecm? Just forgot which ones plug into each other? There is a total of 4 small plugs . 2 on the left closest to the back of truck and 2 closest to the front of truck .
@@Schneids15 much appreciated for the reply. I'm chasing down an issue where my WTS light never comes on anymore and the fuel pump doesn't prime on key-on. Truck starts and runs great, just no WTS light. I tried replacing the ECM and it didn't fix the issue.
@seanpennington5079 that is odd. The wait to start would be temp controlled, however fuel Pump every time…. They both always trigger at the same time when key on. I would be guessing computer/ however the PCM on the firewall is what controls that i believe. Don’t quote me on that however. I’d have to see what triggers the pump when key is on and wait to start to confirm. Let me know how you make out. Hopefully your issues can help others. I just got done a 2 month battle with a kubota tractor diagnosing and was one of the hardest diagnosis of my life. I feel your pain and wish you luck.
@@Schneids15 it's driving me crazy! It's fine where I live now, but I'm moving somewhere much colder in a couple months and would really like it working properly before I get there. I'm going to try replacing the grid heater relay, the grid heater, then the IAT sensor, then the battery temp sensor one by one, I've read that all those are a part of the same system .If none of that fixes it I'm just gonna pony up the cash to have a dealer diagnose it with one of those DRB 3 scanners. If it comes to that I think I'll have em check the abs light, brake light, and seatbelt light that have all been on since I bought the truck haha
@seanpennington5079 i wish you luck! To me you sound on the right track. However the fuel pump not triggering on leads me on a different path, it is not temp activated and that leads me to think it is not IAT, or relay related. Test at your relays and see if you are getting power like the video. Otherwise i’m betting the issue is in the wiring somehow. How far ya moving? I’m in ON canada. Have friends in Indiana and they definitely have close to the same weather as here cold wise.
Thank you for your video!! I have 2000 ram 2500 Diesel i was using it as a daily driver all of a sudden next morning it did not turn on just a clicking noise, you think the grid relay can be the problem?? Thank you
@@Schneids15 thank you for your feedback, no start ether just the start up click when we wait a few seconds before we turn the ignition, I will definitely try that the batteries been doing good but I could of left something on, that's exactly how it sounds like ...thank you again!! 🙏 New subscriber 💯
@@Schneids15 I get code p1291 heated windshield output fail check engine light after a day of driving it around when i delete it with my scanner, any thoughts??? Where so the little wires run out to? Thanks again 👊🏼
I have a 98 Dodge with the Cummins 24 valve when I turn the key on it will turn over but not start turn the key back off then turn the key back on then the wait start light comes on now I watch a couple different videos I'm just wondering if it's the wires the two solenoids on it have any ideas please get back with me thank you
I’m not sure if this might be my possible issue on my 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins. Maybe one you have an answer. But this morning , I had trouble starting my truck. Which I never had ever since I owned it. It usually starts right up. Even in 20 or 30 degree weather. But it took three tries as if the batteries were dead. Finally on the fourth tried it started I took it to a mechanic and all batteries and alternator were fine. I was turning off and on truck all day with no issues after the first accident. Any ideas of what it could be?
Thanks for the video. I got the P2609 CEL and replaced both relays. Truck starts fine and runs good but the CEL won't turn off no matter how many times I erase the code. I have a 2005 5.9 Cummins Any suggestions? How do I test the heater grid to be sure it's working or do I assume it's not because of the new relays?
My 03 cummins starting idling rough at randoms times throughout my drive and losing throttle power for the period when it acts rough and tested the "switch" relay and it was receiving no power when key is turned to ignition and my grid heater is receiving no power hopefully replacing these it fixes my issue.
I bought a 01 cummins, it came with this piece missing, my question is where do the power wires go to, i found the wires for it laying in the truck so im not sure what goes where.
I have heard of guys doing that with heating intakes with blow dryers before startup and having success. You could retro a system like this to work and i am sure it would. I have heard it works well compared to some old glow plug systems.
I just bought my 2000 yesterday and the wires were unplugged, I did this test and aren’t working properly, prolly imma change ‘em tomorrow. Winter just start
Man i change my heater and the relays and still does not works i have no voltage at my heather neither on my relays but have continuity from my battery to my relays what do u think its happening thanks in advance
Have a 99 cummins. Had the same issue. Replaced the grid heater and the solenoids/ relays whatever you want to call them. Worked for a day then quit. Replaced the solenoids again and still don’t work. But it’s receiving 12.5 volts. But not letting it out the other side when the ignition switches on. Any help?
I replaced the relay on my 98 and it started right up but then after a while it will not start. The batteries are 6 years old. Not sure if I have bad batteries now.
you missed an important first step , you must ensure your getting 12v from ecm to trigger solenoid (little push on wires), I know you felt them and could feel them clicking but ya want make sure your getting the full 12 v there ,if not solenoids could be fine and the issue could be they are not being triggered , if this is the case , at this point the best thing to do is wire in a momentary push button to bypass ecm to control one of them not both at same time ,as the ecm alternates between the 2 grid heaters , both on at same time is too much draw
Dont bother with all that. With the truck off. dissconect all small wires with the boots on st solenoid. Connect test wires to the posts that had green with black stripes to positive terminal on battery and the other two posts with orange and yellow wires to the negative terminal on battery. You'll hear a click if solenoid works
Thank you for taking the time to make this great video . I know it’s 4 years later now but you saved me a lot of time winters coming and I’m not a commentator on TH-cam. I felt like you needed to know. I appreciate your help
Hey thank you very much. It makes my day getting comments like this. Have a great day and enjoy easy starting.
Thanks for the info! I drive a 2000 - 2500 and it always started perfectly until the other day on a cold start. I began to search for possible reasons it was acting up and looked for someone that could clearly show the grid heater. I was unaware of the relays that power the heater itself your video was very clear and helped alot.
Thanks for the nice comment Joe. Let me know if you have any issues. My truck would have a blue haze at idle when cold and smoke a lot. That diesel smoke that stings your eyes. Now with the grid heaters working again it starts instant and no idle haze. You can see them cycle your battery gauge will drop significantly.
Great video thanks.
Bought my first Cummins last week and got the code. Going out to probe and confirm it’s the relays tomorrow. Thanks heaps for making this simple to check.
Ive never commented on anything on TH-cam, but this is excellent. It is exactly what I didn't know I was looking for! P.S......Letterkenny rules!
Haha thank you! Hope it helped. I appreciate it!
This video was awesome, helped me diagnose my truck, turns out i had the same problem. Thanks again
Thanks Rick!
thank you for uploading this. There aren't many on replacing them. I just replaced my relay today. some people claim this system is for reducing emissions and it doesn't aid in the starting process... all I know is that there is a big difference when I start my truck with a properly functioning grid heater. very detailed video.
Yup you are right👍🏻 starting is definitely what they are designed for. The will aid in emissions a bit too for sure.
The haters will hate! Haha! If you think it through, a cold starting diesel will make a lot of garbage until they get warm. whether it be unburned diesel or black carbon soot. Regardless of "emissions", these products are in your combustion chamber and likely will have to go through your turbo and may end up in your oil pan as well. Your oil doesn't get black "just because" it's a diesel.
Emissions? Tell them to wash their hair wlonce they get their head out of their ass.
Thank you for this video. I replaced my solenoids this past weekend and now my truck starts right up.
Thanks for your comment, did your pick up completely not turn? Mine just clicks but does not start at all not even the starter will make a noise
@@TubeInspire My truck was having a hard time starting when it was very cold. This was my first winter with this truck. I bought the truck last spring. I tried using the block heater but it still struggled to start when it was very cold. I then did some research which led me to learn about the grid heater system on these Cummins diesel engines. I tested the heater relays (solenoids) and confirmed that mine weren't working..... If your starter isn't even cranking when you turn the key, I'd start by testing the battery, ground connections and relays. I'd even test the smaller wire on the starter to see if it is getting voltage when the key is turned in the ignition switch. You will probably need another person to help you with this
@@DuellingMarshalls thank you for advice! I have been doing some research myself, I will definitely test voltage on starter in solenoids
Thank you for your feedback 🙏
I recently diagnosed mine as a bad relay/solenoid. On the grid heater positive side, one terminal showed 12.8 volts, the other .2. Fusible link between the battery and relays is good, grid heater itself isn’t open. I had continuity between both grounds and both positive terminals on the heater.
THANKS BRO FOR SHARE YOUR KNOWLEDGE,.AND I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT MY TRUCK DODGE RAM 3500/2001/5.9/DIESEL THE WIRES COMES FROM THE SELENOIDE TO THE (+) BATTERY IT MELTDOWN COULD YOU TELL ME IF THE SELENOIDE IS BAD OR SOMETHING ELSE WRONG., THANK YOU.
Wow thank you very much for this video. So far I've not had any problems but am always wanting to learn...thank you
Great video bro. I’m having issues with my grid on the case skid steer
Great video! I just replaced the relay and one side has power but the other stud still registers 0 volts. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Is your brother as gifted as you? Great Job on this Dodge
Thanks steve! I am in the process of mechanically restoring the truck and cleaning the years of oil spray off of it this summer. Hopefully paint in the next couple years. My brother is not much for mechanics. He loves cars and everything so i am teaching him the best i can.
@@Schneids15 He has a GREAT teacher~~ :)
Love it that his garage is tied to his truck! what happens in the summer time when the truck is gone?
Hahahaha. That was a late season setup and i couldn’t anchor the building properly. So i figured a 6800LB truck should keep it on the ground🤣
Got an idea here, get 2 2x10s 12/14 foot long drive over them with each axle tie garage to them.
She’s been anchored for years! If i was on the Prairies that would hold it. We did 2x8 down each side of old scrap wood. It holds it down nice.
Relay vs Solenoid. Well old people like me call them solenoid as we started with old ones on Ford cars and tractors etc. There's also the starter mounted solenoid that mechanically activated the starter. A (n electrical) relay is more of a functional term where a low amperage signal is used to activate a device to run a higher amp circuit. I believe some relays may contain more "stuff" than just the "solenoid". A solenoid then is the electrical winding device within the relay that typically acts on a steel stem to move it and close points or move a lever. One of my first experiences with a "relay" was a horn relay. who wants all those amps going through your steering wheel. Then came the electric fan "relay" Wow! Look at that! an electric fan to cool the radiator because they turned the engine sideways. We thought "how stupid" and "why did they have to change things". So I digress. To summarize a Relay is the function and the whole device, a Solenoid is the actual winding mechanism with typically a steel plunger in the center. Haha! There is a man at my door in a white suit that wants me to go for a ride with him... Says its a special hospital and I will be able to relax. Haha!
Hahaha well explained. If they aren’t a little square box and are anything with 2 big studs and 2 little studs i always call them solenoid’s. I’m old school.
Great video . Does it matter on the two small gauge ,plug in connectors which ones you plug them into?? I know the colored ones are for the ecm? Just forgot which ones plug into each other? There is a total of 4 small plugs . 2 on the left closest to the back of truck and 2 closest to the front of truck .
Hey Oscar, i don’t believe so. Try it and see if it works. I think it will work both ways though.
@@Schneids15 i plugged them in and no it does not matter . Awesome video man . Thank your for such a fast response
Question how many volts should have. In others side of the silinoied ,wire attach to. Great greater
Was your wait to start light not turning on at all before you replaced the grid heater relay? Would the lift pump not prime before starting?
Nope all that stuff functioned fine.
@@Schneids15 much appreciated for the reply. I'm chasing down an issue where my WTS light never comes on anymore and the fuel pump doesn't prime on key-on. Truck starts and runs great, just no WTS light. I tried replacing the ECM and it didn't fix the issue.
@seanpennington5079 that is odd. The wait to start would be temp controlled, however fuel
Pump every time…. They both always trigger at the same time when key on. I would be guessing computer/ however the PCM on the firewall is what controls that i believe. Don’t quote me on that however. I’d have to see what triggers the pump when key is on and wait to start to confirm. Let me know how you make out. Hopefully your issues can help others. I just got done a 2 month battle with a kubota tractor diagnosing and was one of the hardest diagnosis of my life. I feel your pain and wish you luck.
@@Schneids15 it's driving me crazy! It's fine where I live now, but I'm moving somewhere much colder in a couple months and would really like it working properly before I get there. I'm going to try replacing the grid heater relay, the grid heater, then the IAT sensor, then the battery temp sensor one by one, I've read that all those are a part of the same system .If none of that fixes it I'm just gonna pony up the cash to have a dealer diagnose it with one of those DRB 3 scanners. If it comes to that I think I'll have em check the abs light, brake light, and seatbelt light that have all been on since I bought the truck haha
@seanpennington5079 i wish you luck! To me you sound on the right track. However the fuel pump not triggering on leads me on a different path, it is not temp activated and that leads me to think it is not IAT, or relay related. Test at your relays and see if you are getting power like the video. Otherwise i’m betting the issue is in the wiring somehow.
How far ya moving? I’m in ON canada. Have friends in Indiana and they definitely have close to the same weather as here cold wise.
Thank you for your video!!
I have 2000 ram 2500 Diesel i was using it as a daily driver all of a sudden next morning it did not turn on just a clicking noise, you think the grid relay can be the problem?? Thank you
Hey ruben, does the start crank as normal or no start either? I would first start with a solid charge of the batteries of there is no crank.
@@Schneids15 thank you for your feedback, no start ether just the start up click when we wait a few seconds before we turn the ignition, I will definitely try that the batteries been doing good but I could of left something on, that's exactly how it sounds like ...thank you again!! 🙏 New subscriber 💯
@@Schneids15 I get code p1291 heated windshield output fail check engine light after a day of driving it around when i delete it with my scanner, any thoughts??? Where so the little wires run out to?
Thanks again 👊🏼
@@Schneids15 and my relay is not sending power to the far side ether...
Beautiful truck brother
Does the wires the 2 wires coming off the grid heater go to the battery which helps the fuel kill system
Great video. I needed this info
I have a 98 Dodge with the Cummins 24 valve when I turn the key on it will turn over but not start turn the key back off then turn the key back on then the wait start light comes on now I watch a couple different videos I'm just wondering if it's the wires the two solenoids on it have any ideas please get back with me thank you
Does this happen when warm out as well? Should not need to wait in warm weather. Could be a fuel pump issue.
I’m not sure if this might be my possible issue on my 1995 Dodge Ram 2500 5.9 Cummins. Maybe one you have an answer. But this morning , I had trouble starting my truck. Which I never had ever since I owned it. It usually starts right up. Even in 20 or 30 degree weather. But it took three tries as if the batteries were dead. Finally on the fourth tried it started I took it to a mechanic and all batteries and alternator were fine. I was turning off and on truck all day with no issues after the first accident. Any ideas of what it could be?
Sounds like it could be your issue yes. Be sure to see if it is the grid heater or the relay’s
Thanks for the video. I got the P2609 CEL and replaced both relays. Truck starts fine and runs good but the CEL won't turn off no matter how many times I erase the code. I have a 2005 5.9 Cummins Any suggestions? How do I test the heater grid to be sure it's working or do I assume it's not because of the new relays?
Easiest way is to pop the intake horn then cycle the relays and see if they get red. Josh
Great Video, Thank you!! What would be the cost of the relay? My 1993 is in a shop and only Cummins has the part. Thank you.
Good video. Straight point no sales pitch stories and all that bull shit talk like others
My 03 cummins starting idling rough at randoms times throughout my drive and losing throttle power for the period when it acts rough and tested the "switch" relay and it was receiving no power when key is turned to ignition and my grid heater is receiving no power hopefully replacing these it fixes my issue.
Great video, Help me a lot 🙂
Hey thanks for the comment. Really appreciate it!
I bought a 01 cummins, it came with this piece missing, my question is where do the power wires go to, i found the wires for it laying in the truck so im not sure what goes where.
Thanks... I appreciate your video. Your know what you are talking about
Can we put that. Sistem on an idi 7.3?
I have heard of guys doing that with heating intakes with blow dryers before startup and having success. You could retro a system like this to work and i am sure it would. I have heard it works well compared to some old glow plug systems.
Thanks so much my problem is the same hope it works for me
I hope it does too.
Did your wait to start light go off ?
It would turn on and off like normal.
Hmmm going snowmobiling coming back to the parking lot and having the truck fire right up.... Ya worth it
Yup
my power wire for they relays are two wires into one. Then right to the positive side of the batteries. is this righjt
I don’t have one in front of me but yes i am almost 100% that is correct.
Those two wires merging into one by the battery, have fuse links built into them.
I just bought my 2000 yesterday and the wires were unplugged, I did this test and aren’t working properly, prolly imma change ‘em tomorrow. Winter just start
Man i change my heater and the relays and still does not works i have no voltage at my heather neither on my relays but have continuity from my battery to my relays what do u think its happening thanks in advance
I get a warning light so don't know if mine is ECM because it comes on when it hot but need to check it
Have a 99 cummins. Had the same issue. Replaced the grid heater and the solenoids/ relays whatever you want to call them. Worked for a day then quit. Replaced the solenoids again and still don’t work. But it’s receiving 12.5 volts. But not letting it out the other side when the ignition switches on. Any help?
Can hear the solenoids click
I replaced the relay on my 98 and it started right up but then after a while it will not start. The batteries are 6 years old. Not sure if I have bad batteries now.
After changing solenoids not getting any power to the ignition any ideas??
What if there is no wait to start light?
Hadn’t run into that issue. My first thought would be to check what temp sensor controls the heater circuit and see if it is working proper.
you missed an important first step , you must ensure your getting 12v from ecm to trigger solenoid (little push on wires), I know you felt them and could feel them clicking but ya want make sure your getting the full 12 v there ,if not solenoids could be fine and the issue could be they are not being triggered , if this is the case , at this point the best thing to do is wire in a momentary push button to bypass ecm to control one of them not both at same time ,as the ecm alternates between the 2 grid heaters , both on at same time is too much draw
I understand. I thought i had covered this but must have bypassed it. I will have to make a part #2.
Dont bother with all that. With the truck off. dissconect all small wires with the boots on st solenoid. Connect test wires to the posts that had green with black stripes to positive terminal on battery and the other two posts with orange and yellow wires to the negative terminal on battery. You'll hear a click if solenoid works
Perfect
good video
Thank you.
Watching volt gauge is what I get out of it.
my 2003 dodge ram 3500 cummins 5.9 don't get power to the solenoid
If this design is so bad why hasn't FCA gotten Cummins to update the design??
I viewed this video then I looked at my dodge. I decided to remove the battery to change my relays.
just get 3.6 volt
Sounds like a bad connection going to them. Check for corrosion.
Turn off ads on your vids please
Lol. If i turn off ads i will delete the video off TH-cam also...
Don't drive it in the salt or it will look my dodge
It always was for 18 years. Not anymore.