Thanks @Zacc B Would you believe me if I told you I shot this repair video 4 times? During the third time.... I actually broke the resistors mounting tabs off. So I had to buy a new one. (The one I was doing the video for was in working condition). I just believe that if I have knowledge I can pass on to others, I'm not going to make people guess at the steps they need to take to do a repair. So that's why I have all the detail. Take Care.
Love the closing message. "Don't be afraid to work on your car. " - IamWedge Came here because my air was inly functioning on high speed for the lads few months and it finally stopped entirely. I pounded on the dash out of anger and it started working again and the next time I went to start the car I hoped it was still working and it wasn't. I figured abuse wasn't going to he a long term solution and would need to do some deep diving to find out what is actually happening. Here I am. Thank you for your in depth process and walk through!!
Its possible. I would take a meter and see what the power looks like going to the blower. Couldn't hurt the check the fan speed control knob as well. You could possibly have a wiring issue as well. Hard to say until you start probing wires. I do have a video on the blower motor as well. You might want to check that one out. I talk about what the motor does when it is going bad.
WOW!!!! Easily one of the very best instructional videos I've seen on TH-cam for cars!! Very exacting, precise and a helluva fantastic teacher! You really know how to keep things "step-by-step" and you also show newbies EXACTLY how to do it -- all the "trade secret" techniques (how not to snap the plastic, etc). Really well done. Thank you for your attention to detail! You are a master teacher.
I've seen some of the other videos that skip steps and leave viewers guessing what to do next. I try to be as precise as I can be when it comes to working on cars. @LanceLaCroix Thank you for your kind words. :)
This was the best video out of the five I came across. It was exactly the same scenario as my own. I didn't have to remove any of the molding as there was a port just big enough for my ham fist to fit through to reach and manipulate the resistor module. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for watching @clintmilner2365 The reason to remove all those items is more for the camera to have a shot of the work area. If I said you can do this through the access hole, some will try it that way. But removing a few extras so you can see what you are doing is also helpful. I had to film and refilm this video over three times. Lighting issues, Focus issues, Audio issues. Mind you there was nothing wrong with my resistor, But removing it and replacing it several times... well, my resistor finally broke the mounting tabs. So... I did end up having to buy a new resistor. At least if the new resistor fails at some point down the road, I can separate the housing and put my old resistor (that's still good) back in its place. I do appreciate all of you and your comments. I'm glad to have helped so many of you save some $$$.
I have never seen a video that explains the process so well, excellent. All the transition movements are shown which are important also so you don't damage the parts.
Thanks @John Quimby I have seen some of the other videos. yes, they do drop out important steps. I always make sure my viewers are never left guessing as to what to do next. I show the entire process no matter how much I have to move my camera or even reshoot certain segments. I did film this video like 4 times. I had lighting issues, out-of-focus issues, I was in the way issues. LOL On the fourth time I actually broke the part. So I did end up having to buy a new one. Yeah, my part still worked when I was making the video. I broker the resistor's housing that holds it in place. Once this part goes, I can remove the old part I broke and put it in the housing of the new one. Thanks again and Take Care.
Perfect video. Quick easy right to the point. If anyone is doing this to their crosstrek you can skip pulling off the side and metallic covers and bottom if you don’t mind reaching your hand through the whole and taking apart less of the car. Just take out the glove box and reach through
The reason for removing everything is so the camera can see what is happening. This way a DIYer can actually see the entire area. Working through a small hole and talking about what I am doing.... wouldn't help those that have no experience.
Thank You @Derek Doucette I believe in having the detail so someone trying to do this on their own isn't left guessing. Glad you found the video helpful.
Nice vid! I was able to replace the resistor on a 2014 Crosstrek simply by removing the glove box. Resistor was easily identified and accessible. It only took a few minutes and fan now works properly. Thanks IW!
You are an absolute legend. I’m experiencing a high pitched (electrical sounding) noise that seems to go up and down as the AC fan is put up and down. However even at max fan, the noise sometimes lowers and raises in tone. Several forum posts have led me to the blower relay as being the culprit. I saw the blower motor video and am planning to swap the relay and the motor while I have the glove box removed already. If you happen to see this comment please let me know what you think of this diagnosis and plan of attack. Great video. Exactly what I would hope to find for any how to car repair video for the average person without a whole shop full of tools and equipment. Thank you!
Thank you @Gabriel Utset If you are not able to pinpoint the high pitch sound, you can try this trick. If you have a long screwdriver you can touch the metal end to the motor and place the handle to the opening of your ear. Heck, even something like a wooden dowel will work. You can hear plenty through a screwdriver. It's just like using a mechanics stethoscope. Which you could get at harbor freight for like $5 or most auto parts places, even Amazon has them. It's a tool that I use often. Great for when you want to listen to lifter noise in your engine. Anyhow... Sometimes that squeaking could also be plastic-on-plastic sounds. This can happen when the cage on the blower motor makes contact with the housing or surrounding areas. Let me know what you find.
Thank You @bsfatboy I know my videos are longer than most of the ones that skip over and make people guess. I don't want people to guess when doing repairs. So..... details matter. Thanks for stopping by and watching the video. Take Care.
You just cured the headache I was having. Had my condenser and blower motor replaced and my ac still wasn’t working right. I’m convinced this is my issue
Thank you for your video, I started this project and you were so helpful. I ordered the wrong resistor and had to wait for it come in and forgot where all the screws were supposed to go, but your video is so detailed I was able to just pick up where I left off. Thanks again!
I learned a long time ago when I order or pick up parts I open the box and check the part. You wouldn't be the first person to order the wrong part. It happens. Glad you were able to pick up where you left off. :) Glad to help out. :)
Thank You @Rhea Webb I did see your question about telling the difference between the manual and automatic systems. I think that the manual systems is in the premium model of the car. Where as the limited editions vehicles have an upgraded automatic system. You can also see it with the speed selection of the fan control. Manual systems have 4 speeds, Automatic systems have 6. I hope this helps. If you want to know which resistor you have. remove the cover for the bottom of the glove box and look up to where the resistor is located. The Automatic system is a tall resistor. The manual resistor is short and compact. Thank you for your kind words
@@IamWedge Thank you! I ended up looking in my car's manual and found it listed there as well (I have a manual resistor). Your answer is more helpful to know, especially if someone doesn't have access to their car's manual. I was still able to follow your video throughout the whole process. When I got to the resistor, the only difference was that the manual has a little clip that you have to depress and wiggle (this was a little hard for me, there might be a tool that makes this easier to remove). But after I got it out, it was really easy to swap the part and put everything back together. Thanks again!
@@rheawebb8640 Awesome, I'm glad the video was able to help you out. Thanks for stopping by..... don't forget to subscribe so you can find me when you have to do some other work to your car. :) Take Care.
Thank you so much. We're in the middle of a cold snap and my heater quit. It started only working on certain settings and then not being consistent. And then quit altogether on a super cold freezing rain day. So I used your videos to replace my resistor and my blower fan. And now it is working so I do have heat. And that is great except it's still sometimes clicking and not Turn it on. I hope you're still out there answering questions
@@IamWedge Thanks for replying. I did figure it but I had to take it to someone to help fucking expensive. They had to remove my radio and hold control in system. My controls were sorted out and the plugs were melted
Thank you for the excellent video. I replaced both the resistor and the blower motor at the same time since I wasn't sure which was the problem. Both parts looked a little gross (condensation damage?). In any case, guess what? It works! Thank you so much!
I appreciate this video very much. It was so detailed and easy to follow. Thanks to this video my replacement was successful and saved me a ton of money.
You are welcome @PointBlankw00t Having good detail is what helps someone with no experience complete a task like a professional. I'm glad my video helped you to replace the resistor. I'm more than happy to help my viewers save some money. Like I always say, "Don't be afraid to work on your car."
Thank you! Made it so easy. Mine was wet when I pulled it out so checked my windshield area to try to find a leak. I couldn't, and when I tried the new resistor, all speeds work now instead of the highest one 😞 I'm still happy, don't have to freeze on my way to work now
What an awesome job. You, sir, are a great presenter. I changed out my 2014 Impreza. Thank you! You obviously take great care in staging the presentation. My Resistor was slightly different from yours. No fins. You may be able to remove it without removing the housing.
Thank You @Jorge Madrazo I've seen way to many videos on car repair that leave people guessing. I shot this once and had out-of-focus shots (I didn't like). So I shot it again I had lighting issues.... I got it figured out on the fourth attempt. I had taken the part out so many times that I actually broke the plastic locks that hold it in place. So, I ended up buying a new part. (When I shot the video My Resistor was working) In the long run if the one I just put in fails down the road. I have my original working one. Will just swap electronics in the housing. You resistor must be from a Premium model with a manual HVAC system. Thanks once again for stopping by. Take Care.
Was looking at mine today after watching the video wondering if I to get away without removing all that as well lol did yoh try it successfully? My a/c crapped out today heard a pfft then zero air hot or cold. After watching some good videos like this one I'm figuring it's either the resistor or relays since the compressors still working. Just hear a quiet click when I turn the fan on coming from the center console left side.. Maybe the blower motors bad but the fan spins smoothly like Wedge said so thinkin that might not be toast lol.
@@IamWedge I was told it's a base STI but it does have the auto climate controls which seems to be a limited n premium option and limited shows up when I enter my vin online lookin up her value like on my AAA app & credit karma reviewing my old loan info.
My 2014 was a little different but I after watching this it was a breeze! hahaha. (nobody laughs at my jokes but me) When I ordered the part from a dealer the guy looked at me as if I was a loon. Thank you, thank you, thank you for your help!
2014 Which model? Cause I did this on my 2014 Crosstrek. Dealers always look at the public like that. Working on your own car... Oh no bring it in and let us charge you for and hour or two for a simple job. Glad my video was able to help you out. :)
You're videos are so official you're doing a great job you should have someone make your videos a cover photo to attract in more people maybe get a shirt with your channel on it great helpful videos man!
Thank you @Drazen Kucuk Mine is a 2014 Crosstrek Limited. It should be pretty close on the 2017model. I think 2018 was when they did many changes. But that could have been just exterior cosmetics.
Thank you very much for all the detail in this video! My fan will not turn on no matter what setting it’s on. I had a friend take a quick look. He unplugged the connector and plugged it back in. It worked the rest of the day. After getting home and turning off the car for the night, upon turning on the car the next morning, again the fan does not turn on. Do you think it could be a bad resistor? Thanks in advance!
Hi @Pottery by Chris Burch I would remove that bottom cover have your car running turn the fan on and give the motor a tap from below. Sometimes it can be a dead spot in the motor. If it doesn't do anything. Try the resistor again. I would try each setting on the fan section knob. If it works on the first setting but 2 and 3 don't work then 4 does, its probably the resistor. It could even be a bad pigtail (plug in). Let me know what you find out.
Hi! I have a 2014 Crosstrek Automatic CVT Premium, do I need to replace the just the motor resistor 72226FG001 or the whole HVAC Blower Motor Control Module 73533YC000? I'm confused if the resistor is a part of the control module or separate parts
If you have the premium model you have the Manual HVAC system. Remove your glove box and look in the back on the left. See the opening at the 5:43 mark in the video? Look in there. do you see screws on the sides of the blower motor resistor? If yes, you will need 72226FG001. That part is called a Blower motor resistor. The other one (for Auto HVAC, On the limited models) is called a control module. But, most everyone calls it a resistor as well.
OK, so trying to help my daughter with her 2000 Outback. Heater quit working. Middle of winter. All fuses test good. Heater and AC relays test good. Removed plug to heater blower and jumped blower motor to 12 v battery. Fan sounds great. She thinks light to rear window defrester button stopped lighting around same time and doesn't defrost window (just coincidence?) Fan switch does not activate fan at any speed. Would bad resistor cause this not to work at all? If we take heater control panel out, is it possible to jump the plug with the ignition on to see if activates the blower? Which wires would we jump? Also, we will follow your directions to test the resistor. Any thoughts? Outback still going with over 300,000 plus miles. Great video by the way.
@paulsteffy949 I don't have schematics for a 2000 Outback. There are a few things that could be an issue. An Issue with wiring, Maybe there is a bad ground. Bad pigtail. I would test the pigtail at the blower motor resistor. See if there is power going in. Test the ohms on the switch and or the wires going to that pigtail. Try searching for a schematic for a 2000 Outback HVAC system. Test all that before you start buying parts to throw at an issue. Good Luck.
I replaced mine, 2014. My part was a bit different than yours part 72226FG001. But I replaced it and still having the same issue. Only blowing on setting 2 and 4, won’t work on 1/3. Any other thoughts on what may cause this issue? Appreciate the help. This was a great video explanation.
You must have a manual HVAC system. Is your car a Premium? As for your issue. It could be an issue with the fan speed selector on the climate control. You will have to test the switch. The pigtail ( the ends that plug into the resistor and the climate control center) might be at fault. Ive seen the metal connectors not fully seated in the plastic housing. So, take a look at the pigtails and see if the metal connectors inside the pigtails are fully seated. While you are looking at the wires check to see how they are with a meter as well. Let me know how it turns out for you @Tyler Cerise
Thanks for this informative video. Does yhis same resistor control the temperature as well? I have issue where air only comes out as if its on the highest setting and also aot ismy cold/cool unless its on LO.
I have a 2013 Impreza. When turning my fan speed knob, I see the a/c light blink on/off and hear a clicking from behind the glove box. Does this sound like the same problem? I know it's hard to diagnose over internet but would rather not waste time/money at the dealership. Thank you
It could be any number of things. A bad switch, a wiring issue, Or the blower motor could be bad. I do have a video about the blower motor as well. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html (I would remove the glove box and the cab filter and see if you can rotate the fan with your finger tip. WARNING... If you have the key on and the fan selector on a speed and you try rotating the fan it might take off quickly. Mind your fingers. My email is watermarked at the bottom of all my DIY videos. Feel free to email me. I can send you a link for a service manual.
I have ac problem subaru 2013 xv. When swich ac speed turn to auto blower only work for 1 second after this no blower is working . Let me know what part is cousing this problem. I have test blower motor to battery is working normally.
So if my fan is intermittent on my 08 Subaru Outback and comes on when I rap the blower this part is not the problem? I’m getting power and when it does work it runs normally and has all speeds available.
I replaced the blower resistor but still don't have consistent blower. The switch has to be jiggled around for it to work. My question is can I buy only the speed control switch or do I have to buy the whole control panel I have a 2013 Impreza.
So either you have a bad plug-in on the back or a faulty switch. I think the climate control system is all one piece. You could get one from a junkyard.
Hey Buddy 15 ctosstrek hvac controller not working . Fuses ok. Do you think the controller is broken. Vent controll cables and fan work good. Ac blue light inop.. no power to the blower.
Hi Ya Tomas! Yeah, I just haven't had any time to go out and fly my drones. I'm hope to in the next couple of weeks. We are doing well. Hope the same for you as well. Thanks for stopping by. :)
Hello, very well made video. I have a 2010 Legacy 3.6r and over the last 2 years or so the blower for either AC or Heat would start up when I wanted to when I did a cold start. But sometimes after turning the car back on (coming back after shopping etc) it wouldnt start up until I would drive a short bit. Last week its been very erratic taking much longer than usual and now for the last 3 days its not blowing at all. Checked both blower fuses from the engine bay and 2 fuses from the interior for AC with a multimeter and they seem to be ok. I removed the climate control module (the one with all buttons no dials) and looked at the plug and seemed fine, no burns etc. When I turn on windshield defrost I hear a click in the glove box area which I've read is the relay. I can fainly feel heat from the vents but only a very weak radiant kind of heat. So would this be a resistor issue or is the blower itself at fault? Will try to replace the resistor but would like to know if its something else before spending money on parts I dont need. Will update when I fix the issue one way or another. Thanks!
Hey @Joe Mama Most times if the blower motor resistor is bad you will notice the blower motor will only work on certain fan speed settings. I do have a blower motor video. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html YOu said you have already tested some of your connections. You can remove the glovebox and the cabin filter. If the fan isn't turning, you can try the following. (You might want to have a glove on for this.) I did this one mine. With the fan on a lower speed setting try and give the fan a quick slight rotation. If it starts up it might give your fingers a little grinding. The plastic is sharp so it might hurt. Why I suggested gloves. If it starts rotation, try all the fan settings and see if the speed increases. If the blower motor is failing you might hear a squeaking or knocking sound. It can also speed up and slow down on its own. (Without changing the settings and not on AUTO) Go look at the other video and let me know what you end up doing. Take Care.
@@IamWedge So this morning I left for an appointment, set the defrost on max fan at 70f and as expected the blower didnt turn on at all. Was hoping I'd get lucky and it'd start itself after short bit of driving but no luck. I remember reading somewhere that tapping the blower or slapping the dash or underside of the glove box might kick start the blower while the car is running. I carry a small umbrella in the car so I used that and gave a few solid whacks under the glove box while at parked and at idle and sure enough the blower started right away and got heat no issues, and I can control speed from min to max no issues. I took the car out much later in the day and the fan started up no issues. However around 3 or 4 speed I can definitely hear constant rattle or knocking, but not at max or min speeds. Tomorrow I will take out the glove box (did it before to replace the cabin filter) and see if something is obstructing the fan. If a solid whack under the glove box would make the blower work right away is that then an issue with the blower itself and would rule out a resistor change and instead a blower replacement?
@@joemama5906 Yeah, it sounds like your blowermoter needs replacing. The brushes are probably worn out. When you strike it it's giving that little bump contact and allows the motor to start spinning. The rattling you are hearing is the slop in the bearing. The armature is moving excessively. Here's how to replace the blower motor. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html
Recently in my 2015 Legacy, the blower stopped working completely. Could it still be the resistor, or does that indicate the blower motor needs to be replaced?
Hey Doug: My Crosstek fan stopped blowing suddenly. the control ights up but the fan doen't work in any setrting. Also my airconditioner knob controll doesn;t light up in any setting, and neither the AC or the healter works. Any help here? Is it the resistor, fan or both? How can I be sure? Thanks in advance.
Look under the dash fuse panel. Check fuses 27 and 28 they are the two bottom left ones. Those are for the blower fan. Look at Fuse number 31 off to the right of those two. That one is for the Auto Air Conditioner. Let me know if this helps.
@@IamWedge Hey Doug, thanks. I checked them .Not burned out. The problem is the blower motor resistor.I tried to turn the center panel dial and heard a scratchy noise. On position 4, I was able to engage the blower and the AC worked full blast. I am going to get a new blower motor resistor and follow your excellent tutorial on replacing it. I'll repost whn I get it done. You are great! I'm subscribing.
@@henryfried7804 So you had no other issues with any of fan selection speeds leading up to complete failure? I know last year at this time, I was having issues with my blower motor. So, I had to do a video about that as well. I decided to the video about the resistor, (mine wasnt broken). But I kept having issues while filming it. The auto focus kept going out of focus and I wasn't going to edit a bad video. Another filming the audio dropped out. So as I was filming it the third time I actually broke the plastic casing of the resistor. So I went to Subaru and bought a new one. Then shot the video AGAIN. People wonder when you edit a video and you have three different shirts on. LOL Shooting again worked. Let me tell you its not always easy making some of these videos. Between pausing the change camera positions, getting interrupted by UPS, FedEx or the mail carrier, maybe the neighbors dog gets outside and start barking, a plane flies over. It all ads up to time. I believe in giving my subs content that they can see and has the best audio I can give them. Thanks for your kind words @Henry Fried
@@IamWedge Doug Your video is great.no worries,it gets straight to the point.Most videos are far too talky. Your videos are straight to the point. Let me get to the point: Initially I wasn't sure what my problem was. The fan just wouldn't turn on . However, after playing with the middle fan speed adjuster knob in the dash panel, I notice the following . As I changed positions from 0,1,2,3, I could hear a static like,scratchy sound.It reminded me of an old radio whose tuner is out. So as with and old tuner, I tried to hover a bit around the setting for each fan speed. When I got to position 4, it turned on and the fan and the AC worked!!!!. This proved that the HVAC blower control module resistor was shot ,like an old radio tuner. And since the AC and the fan worked, neither the fan or the comprerssor was bad,only the switch!!!! The part is around $70 from Heuberger SUBARU.Part Number: 73533YC000 for my car. Again thanks for your work,I would reccomend you to anyone who wants to self diagmose and fix their Subaru.
Ive found your vids regarding the resistor and blower motor. I am having a hard time finding location of the blower motor relay, not resistor. Do you by chance know which relay is for the blower motor? Thank you for taking the time to make a video!
Yes, I do @Lindsey Bates My email is at the bottom of the video. Drop me an email and I will send you a pic of where you need to look. Much easier than trying to describe it.
@@IamWedge @Iamwedge thank you for your response! I found it. Someone had unplugged the blower and tucked the harness and relay back behind the kick panel. Had to use my ohms meter to determine some faulty fuses as well. Lil boogers looked fine. After that and getting blower plugged in I have the AC kicking on and off and the blower fully functional. HOWEVER I'm only getting mid temp air. No hot, no cool. I put my gauge on the low pressure Freon and it's darn near maxed out. I filled up the water reservoir incase that was keeping the heater core from doin its thing but still no go. The only other thing I would be able to think is the temp knob its self. It is the 'limited' auto HVAC. So it doesn't have mechanical cables. It just seems like if it was that, it would break either one way hot or one way cold, rather than just flat room temp... Any suggestions?? And I'm in AL so Subies aren't abundant in the south to run to pull-a-part etc..
@@lindseybates3079 Could be an issue with the Air Mix Door Actuator or the climate (temp) controls You can download the service manual if you like. sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
Hi Doug, excellent videos. I have 2004 Subaru Legacy Wagon - the blower is running "slow" on all four speeds - there's air being blown out but less than historical. Is this likely to be the blower motor or the resistor or something else... Thanks!
Slower on all 4 speeds? Sometime it can be caused by restriction. Like a plugged cabin air filter. Usually when the resistor starts to fail only a couple of the settings would be effected. There is the possibility that the blower motor might be dying. Have you heard any clunking or rattling coming from the blower motor? There is also a possibility that you have a ground that is failing. I hope this helps.
@@IamWedge many thanks, there's no noise coming from the motor, but i will check out all the connections & fittings. Subaru replaced the air-bag inflator mechanism 2x in that area of the car so possible that somethings blocking, also the illumination on the radio/cd player is "weak" - which may be consistent with a grounding issue - i'll examine & let you know what i find... Thanks again
@@duncancresswell6324 Illumination on radio is also weak? It does sound like a bad ground. With other component getting less power it does sound like a bad ground. The voltage regulator in the alternator when it is failing will not give you enough power. Or give the battery a good charge. If you have a jump pack or a battery charger hook the positive up to the battery and that negative to a good ground. See if the speed increases or illumination increases.
@@IamWedge thanks. We had new battery 1 month ago (gone bad - we live in Arizona) - nothing changed pre/post battery change. What's best way to diagnose the alternator/voltage regulator?
Hey @Rhett Lila Do you have a Premium Model? The resistor is a little different with the manual HVAC system. This resistor is more rectangle. Look at each end. You should see screws or lock pins on the ends. The manual HVAC system on your model is a 4 terminal plug. The Automatic HVAC system (like the one in my video) is a 6 terminal plug.
i’m trying to determine if this is the problem or if it’s my blower motor. any tips on how to tell for certain? it might not be either or but nothing blows at all. it used to work on like the lowest two settings not it doesn’t blow anymore
@@IamWedgeHow do I use a meter to test the voltages on the blower motor? I'm trying to help my sister fix her car, and we have an idea of what could be wrong, but we don't want to buy the wrong parts. I appreciate any feedback. I also wanted to mention that the video was excellent. It is constructive compared to other tutorials I have seen for my Mercedes. I wish you could also work on those machines as well. 😂
So my a/c started going losing power and pulling air when accelerating. My fan was making a weird noise, opened it up and removed a few leaves and still the click sound persists and fan power goes up and down like it's struggling. I've ordered the blower motor fan but now wondering if it is the resistor? Should I replace both?
@@IamWedge thank you so very much! I switched out the blower motor with one I purchased on Amazon for cheap and it's running perfectly fine! Cycled through hot and cold and no noises or hesitation. You're a lifesaver.
Awesome instructions! Can you comment on the difference between a HVAC Blower Motor Control Module - Subaru (73533FG000) and the Control Module - Subaru (73533YC000)? I believe the first is for a turbo charged version.
The MANUAL HVAC systems uses part number 72226FG001. The AUTO HVAC stem uses part number 73533YC000. The difference between the manual and automatic is that the manual systems climate control has a manually set temperature blend door is cable-driven. You can actually feel the resistance in the knob when you rotate it. The Automatic system is controlled electronically. The knob spins more freely without resistance. In most cases the Premium models will have the Manual HVAC where the Limited models will have the Automatic. As for the part number you listed 73533FG000 That part number has been replaced with 72226FG001 (it's all listed in the description wrote up for this video). It is still for a Manual HVAC system. Hope this helps.
I changed out the resistor and my fan still cuts out at 3rd fan setting and nothing but relay clicking at 3-5 with a cut out fan... any tips on what else I should be looking at or considering? (2014 Crosstrek XV Automatic)
@stefanski8287 I would test your fan switch. That could be your fault in the circuit. If the contacts in the fan switch are bad it might be your problem. You did say you hear clicking.
@@IamWedge it's the relay module next to the fan inside the glove compartment that's clicking when speeds 3 & 4 are being selected... otherwise fan speeds 1 and 2, hot/cold, and all other manual settings work normally.
@@stefanski8287 Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm about to replace my motor resistor as well, but I also have the clicking issue and I'm nervous the resistor wont fix the issue. I have the same car model too.
@@nicholasmartens8541 the cause of the issue is water/moisture intrusion... my contacts on the resistor were corroded, so I had to replace the resistor... my harness also melted down at the connection point between fan blower speed (manual unit FJ050) which the dealership messed up even more when 'diagnosing' apparently the water intrusion/moisture causes corrosion of contacts which causes amp spikes which leads to a meltdown... per bulletin notice, Subaru recommends changing to an upgraded filter and blower motor unit search online for Blower-Motor-MC-10169881-0001.pdf bulletin as far as the melted component on the manual switch that is only offered as a complete unit assembly (even thought that fan switcher part should be available as a standalone part) you can order replacement connection harness from iWire
Hello @IamWedge ! I really enjoyed your video and I would need a little advice before going into this. I have a subaru Forester 2009. 2 weeks ago my heating stops working. I change the fuse that was blown (#22) and it worked, so I was pretty happy about it but was wondering on how long it would last. So yesterday it blown again (#22). I change it again this morning and it works in all position/setting/power (0-4, cold or hot, back defrost). Made some research and arrived here... what should be my next step to be ready for winter? Thanks you so much for your time!
Hi @Dominique Laliberté First question I would ask is how well is the blower fan spinning? Any squeaking or noise coming from it? If the Blower motor is wearing out it might blow the fuse. But there is a possibility of a wire that may be shorting out somewhere under the dash. You might have to take it in to a shop and have them look at it. There is another possibility as well. Fuse #22 is suppose to be a 15Amp fuse. SO make sure you have a 15 Amp fuse in there. Anyhow, Fuse #22 controls the following: Air conditioner, Rear window defogger relay coil. Is the fuse blowing when you use the rear window defogger? Let me know what you find out. Good Luck
IamWedge wow thanks for the answer! When the fuse blows, nothing work (Heater and back rear window heater), when I replace it, everything works (all speeds, all strengths). I saw something about the wires too, I think I’ll look under the gloves compartment to see if I detect something by myself. I’ll keep you in touch ;-) have a good day!
@@dominiquelaliberte4519 Heres what I would do. Just use your heater. DON'T turn on the window defogger. See how the fuse does. Turn the heater off...... then try the rear window defogger. Its possible the problem might be in a short in the rear window defroster. Let me know what you find out.
@@IamWedge So after a few tests: - Heater works all speed all strength alone - Window defogger works all speed all strength alone - All works simultaneously all speed all strength alltogether Now it was on a short ride, so I wonder if with time it will blow, like the first time I changed it, it didn't blow right away...
@@dominiquelaliberte4519 The Idea is to figure out which is giving you the issue. SO, try a week without the rear window defogger on. Is your window freezing over that you have to have it on? YOuhave to remember what also happened when you blew the fuse. Were you taking a left or right turn? Did you hit a bump? YOu know something that will give the car a good jolt. I live in Minnesota and I just warm up my car with the heater before I drive. I rarely drive with my rear window defroster on. It doesn't have to be on just because its cold out.
I’ve been having issues with my Blower Motor on my 2017 Toyota 86. I figure since 90% of that car made by Subaru and in their factory I’d ask. My AC has gone on and off for the past 2 weeks, the Blower Motor seemed fine and wasn’t working before I removed it, then I took it out, plugged it back in, and it worked instantly. The Relay is easier to access but didn’t seem worn or damaged so I left it. The AC worked good until I drove the car again and it started make clicking noises like before until it went out. Could it be my relay???
Is the clicking.... (or clunking) coming from the blower motor? You will be able to notice the blower motor slowing and speeding up on its own. The motor will completely. Stop at times and won't work. It sounds like your blower motor is just worn out. I do also have a video on the blower motor. I talk about what they do when they fail. Let me know what happens with yours.
@@IamWedge The clicking is coming from the Blower Motor. The air coming from the vents feels really weak even on the highest settings. But I had it replaced under warranty by Toyota at 25k miles a year ago, and now I’m at 40k miles and it’s been happening again for a few months now. Toyota claimed initially that it was the Blower Motor, but now I’m thinking it’s the Relay. My warranty has already expired and I plan to replace it myself. Also, when I remove the motor from under-neither the dash, the clicking noise stops and the motor runs perfectly fine in my hand with no issue, but once I place it back into its location, the clicking is faint but gets louder overtime until completely stops working again. There’s also a mild hum coming from the Relay.
@@tofu_drew When my blower motor was dying in my Subaru it started off with faint clicks. Then it turned to clunking and the motor started slowing down. At times it would restart itself. It was getting colder out, so I took my glove box out and the air filter and had to give the fan on the blower motor a little turn. Yes, it took off and it did grind on my finger a bit. So if you plan to try that be careful of nicking your fingers. Im leaning towards your fan is failing again. Where do you plan to purchase your next fan? BTW... what is the year, make and model of your car?
@@IamWedge It’s a 2017 Toyota 86 I plan on getting an OEM Blower Motor if it turns out to be that. But for now I just purchased an aftermarket Relay, once I have get it installed I’ll go from there.
@@tofu_drew One other thing you can do is look inside the housing where you pull the blower motor out of. Check the side wall for any rubbing. You can also look at the Fan to see if its been rubbing on anything inside that housing. Spin the fan by hand and see if the "air mover" blade is on straight. Once you have the old one out hold the base of the fan and with your other hand grab the plastic fan. Try to pull it away and then push it back. notice if there is a lot of inwards and outwards movement. While you are holding on it try rocking the plastic side to side again this checks for play. Not try that with your new one. I bet you see a difference. You can also check to see how well it spins. Try the old fan then try the new one. You will notice the difference. The 86 is a really nice car btw. I to have a Toyota. Its much older. 87 Supra Turbo 5 Spd. Needless to say, it's not stock anymore. LOL
Thank You @John Perricone I looked around I didn't see to many video that explained it or showed how to do it. You will find most of my DIY videos are shown with detail. No sense is making people guess. I actually shot that video 4 or 5 times. Couldn't deal with blocking the shot or out of focus shots. Plus.... I was doing it with a good working part...... which I broke on the 4th filming. Means I have a back up part. LOL
Would this cause the air to acted up? Mine is acting weird. When I have the air conditioning off and just the fan on it blows like the air conditioning is on. When I have the sir conditioning on it blows hot air when the car is under pressure going up hills
IamWedge I have also noticed when I changed the cabin filter that it seemed like it had been sucked down towards the blower. And after watching some more videos It seems like the fan has to be turned almost to full speed to get air moving. I have the 6 speed fan
A Premium Crosstrek in most cases have a manual system. A Limited Crosstrek has an automatic. Look at this google search. www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=2014+Subaru+Crosstrek+blower+resistor You will see two different types of resistors. One is thin and small, (Manual), the other thick and bulky (Automatic)
I just tried this and it didn’t fix the problem :/I have a 13 trek with manual a/c. Fan speed 1 does not work but 2,3,4 work. I checked fuses inside and they are fine. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
@@IamWedgethanks for the reply. I checked it today and the pigtail coming out the dash was burnt where the pin for speed 1 and the knob as well. Is it easy to replace the pig tail? It goes back to the dash and is wrapping in electrical tape. Not sure if that needs to replace and the switch for speed knob too. All other speeds are working fine so I might just leave it if it’s too much trouble.
@@schecter7x Pigtails are really easy to replace. The new pigtail comes with a length of wire. Just don't cut too much of the old out. I would solder the new connections. Black tape is fine... I prefer electrical shrink tubes. If you are comfortable replacing the fan speed selector, go for it!
You might end up having to take a meter to the fan switch to see if the switch is working properly. There is also a possibility of an issue with the wiring.
The reason for taking everything out is so the area can be filmed. Yes, you can access it through the glove box. But most people that will attempt to work on their car will want to see what they are doing. Not stuff the arm in a hole and hope for the best, while blindly feeling around. It's not that complicated to remove the glove box.
I had to take all this apart so I can have the camera shooting it.... My arm/ hand and more than likely my big head would be in the way. :) But yes @Austin Cooper Once you see what you have to do, it might be possible to do it through the hole.
Use The Recirc (recirculation) button. I usually start with fresh air till I get some chilled air in the cab. Then tab the Recirc button. (On my 2014 Crosstrek its the center fan button. Just push it down to turn it on. Push again to turn it off. When on you are using the air inside the cab rather than drawing fresh air. You will notice the increase in volume.
Well, whats you blower motor doing? I do also have a video on the Blower motor. You might want to look at that to see if you are having those symptoms. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html
The part numbers listed in the description are for the Auto HVAC. Towards the bottom is the part number listed for the Manual HVAC system. Limited Crosstreks have auto HVAC. Premium Crosstreks have the manual HVAC system. From above "Part Number (for MANUAL HVAC systems is) 72226FG001 (Verify your part number for the Manual systems. Above number replaces 72226FG000, 72226FJ000 The location is the same, the part is just a little different. It still has a plug to remove. It is held in place by two screws. Just remove the screws off the sides. Remove the old part and replace it with the new one."
The Manual system uses control cables to control the system. This is found on Premium Models. Whereas an automatic system uses components to control the system. Auto HVAC is found on the Limited Models.
My Crosstrek's A/C seems to get really cold when I'm driving. I've replaced the blower motor fan but not the resistor yet... could tht be the cause or is it something more serious?
Your A/C is getting really cold? If you are using the re-circulation function it will get cooler. Also the A/C will get cooler while driving as air travels past the condenser.
"A/C seems to get really cold when I'm driving"... maybe I am misunderstanding what you're saying, but isn't "get really cold" the entire point of the A/C?
When I turn on the ignition the blower spins for 1 second only and then nothing thereafter on the Subaru Tribeca. Do you think this is also the resistor or maybe relay?
I would test the connection at the motor with a meter to see if it is receiving any voltage. You could also test the motor with battery power. (a Jumper wire). If the motor spins then odds are you have a faulty resistor. You can also test the speed controller with a meter. Being the motor is spinning up for a second odds are the motor is receiving a quick shot of power, then nothing. As I stated above, I would confirm it with a meter.
@@IamWedge It was the resistor that was bad and once we replaced it everything is working! I did blow a ton of dust out of the blower motor with the air compressor gun and hoping both parts will be good for a long time. Thank you for helping to save money!
@@mwjmk That's GREAT @mwjmk !!! Congrats on saving yourself a chunk of cash. Give yourself a pat on the back for doing it yourself! Thanks for watching.
This is one of the best how to car fix videos I've ever seen, it shows every step slowly and well shot with the camera! Bravo!
Thanks @Zacc B Would you believe me if I told you I shot this repair video 4 times? During the third time.... I actually broke the resistors mounting tabs off. So I had to buy a new one. (The one I was doing the video for was in working condition). I just believe that if I have knowledge I can pass on to others, I'm not going to make people guess at the steps they need to take to do a repair. So that's why I have all the detail. Take Care.
Love the closing message. "Don't be afraid to work on your car. " - IamWedge
Came here because my air was inly functioning on high speed for the lads few months and it finally stopped entirely. I pounded on the dash out of anger and it started working again and the next time I went to start the car I hoped it was still working and it wasn't. I figured abuse wasn't going to he a long term solution and would need to do some deep diving to find out what is actually happening. Here I am. Thank you for your in depth process and walk through!!
Its possible. I would take a meter and see what the power looks like going to the blower. Couldn't hurt the check the fan speed control knob as well. You could possibly have a wiring issue as well. Hard to say until you start probing wires. I do have a video on the blower motor as well. You might want to check that one out. I talk about what the motor does when it is going bad.
WOW!!!! Easily one of the very best instructional videos I've seen on TH-cam for cars!! Very exacting, precise and a helluva fantastic teacher! You really know how to keep things "step-by-step" and you also show newbies EXACTLY how to do it -- all the "trade secret" techniques (how not to snap the plastic, etc). Really well done.
Thank you for your attention to detail! You are a master teacher.
I've seen some of the other videos that skip steps and leave viewers guessing what to do next. I try to be as precise as I can be when it comes to working on cars. @LanceLaCroix Thank you for your kind words. :)
This was the best video out of the five I came across. It was exactly the same scenario as my own. I didn't have to remove any of the molding as there was a port just big enough for my ham fist to fit through to reach and manipulate the resistor module. Thanks for this video!
Thanks for watching @clintmilner2365 The reason to remove all those items is more for the camera to have a shot of the work area. If I said you can do this through the access hole, some will try it that way. But removing a few extras so you can see what you are doing is also helpful. I had to film and refilm this video over three times. Lighting issues, Focus issues, Audio issues. Mind you there was nothing wrong with my resistor, But removing it and replacing it several times... well, my resistor finally broke the mounting tabs. So... I did end up having to buy a new resistor. At least if the new resistor fails at some point down the road, I can separate the housing and put my old resistor (that's still good) back in its place. I do appreciate all of you and your comments. I'm glad to have helped so many of you save some $$$.
I have never seen a video that explains the process so well, excellent. All the transition movements are shown which are important also so you don't damage the parts.
Thanks @John Quimby I have seen some of the other videos. yes, they do drop out important steps. I always make sure my viewers are never left guessing as to what to do next. I show the entire process no matter how much I have to move my camera or even reshoot certain segments. I did film this video like 4 times. I had lighting issues, out-of-focus issues, I was in the way issues. LOL On the fourth time I actually broke the part. So I did end up having to buy a new one. Yeah, my part still worked when I was making the video. I broker the resistor's housing that holds it in place. Once this part goes, I can remove the old part I broke and put it in the housing of the new one. Thanks again and Take Care.
Perfect video. Quick easy right to the point. If anyone is doing this to their crosstrek you can skip pulling off the side and metallic covers and bottom if you don’t mind reaching your hand through the whole and taking apart less of the car. Just take out the glove box and reach through
The reason for removing everything is so the camera can see what is happening. This way a DIYer can actually see the entire area. Working through a small hole and talking about what I am doing.... wouldn't help those that have no experience.
Great video, love all the detail and the extra care and time you take to show exactly how to unclip things etc, thank you...
Thank You @Derek Doucette I believe in having the detail so someone trying to do this on their own isn't left guessing. Glad you found the video helpful.
@@IamWedge you're very welcome...
I just replaced mine and i watched this video first. Pretty good info and straight forward. Made it easy.
Good For you @Natt Moland I'm glad my video was able to help you out.
Nice vid! I was able to replace the resistor on a 2014 Crosstrek simply by removing the glove box. Resistor was easily identified and accessible. It only took a few minutes and fan now works properly. Thanks IW!
Nice work!
You’re a live safer. I was able to fixed my AC following your advices and detailed steps. Thank-you
Thank You @Hien Nguyen I'm glad I was able to help you out. :)
You are an absolute legend.
I’m experiencing a high pitched (electrical sounding) noise that seems to go up and down as the AC fan is put up and down. However even at max fan, the noise sometimes lowers and raises in tone.
Several forum posts have led me to the blower relay as being the culprit.
I saw the blower motor video and am planning to swap the relay and the motor while I have the glove box removed already.
If you happen to see this comment please let me know what you think of this diagnosis and plan of attack.
Great video. Exactly what I would hope to find for any how to car repair video for the average person without a whole shop full of tools and equipment.
Thank you!
Thank you @Gabriel Utset If you are not able to pinpoint the high pitch sound, you can try this trick. If you have a long screwdriver you can touch the metal end to the motor and place the handle to the opening of your ear. Heck, even something like a wooden dowel will work. You can hear plenty through a screwdriver. It's just like using a mechanics stethoscope. Which you could get at harbor freight for like $5 or most auto parts places, even Amazon has them. It's a tool that I use often. Great for when you want to listen to lifter noise in your engine. Anyhow... Sometimes that squeaking could also be plastic-on-plastic sounds. This can happen when the cage on the blower motor makes contact with the housing or surrounding areas. Let me know what you find.
I didn’t need to do this particular job on my car but just happen to watch this video. This is a well done instructional video.
Thank You @bsfatboy I know my videos are longer than most of the ones that skip over and make people guess. I don't want people to guess when doing repairs. So..... details matter. Thanks for stopping by and watching the video. Take Care.
You just cured the headache I was having. Had my condenser and blower motor replaced and my ac still wasn’t working right. I’m convinced this is my issue
Let me know how it works out for you @Roady
It worked!!!! Thank you so much. It works like new again. Wasn’t too bad to replace either. You saved me. You’re awesome! Keep up the good work.
@@jroady79 Glad you got it fixed. :)
Thank you so much for such a calm, patient tutorial video. Everything worked out great for my replacement
You are welcome @Scott Rubin I'm glad my video was able to help you in your replacement. Thanks for stopping by.
Thank you for your video, I started this project and you were so helpful. I ordered the wrong resistor and had to wait for it come in and forgot where all the screws were supposed to go, but your video is so detailed I was able to just pick up where I left off. Thanks again!
I learned a long time ago when I order or pick up parts I open the box and check the part. You wouldn't be the first person to order the wrong part. It happens. Glad you were able to pick up where you left off. :) Glad to help out. :)
This video is so helpful. Doug you're a great teacher! Thank you very much for sharing.
Thank You @Rhea Webb I did see your question about telling the difference between the manual and automatic systems. I think that the manual systems is in the premium model of the car. Where as the limited editions vehicles have an upgraded automatic system. You can also see it with the speed selection of the fan control. Manual systems have 4 speeds, Automatic systems have 6. I hope this helps. If you want to know which resistor you have. remove the cover for the bottom of the glove box and look up to where the resistor is located. The Automatic system is a tall resistor. The manual resistor is short and compact. Thank you for your kind words
@@IamWedge Thank you! I ended up looking in my car's manual and found it listed there as well (I have a manual resistor). Your answer is more helpful to know, especially if someone doesn't have access to their car's manual. I was still able to follow your video throughout the whole process. When I got to the resistor, the only difference was that the manual has a little clip that you have to depress and wiggle (this was a little hard for me, there might be a tool that makes this easier to remove). But after I got it out, it was really easy to swap the part and put everything back together. Thanks again!
@@rheawebb8640 Awesome, I'm glad the video was able to help you out. Thanks for stopping by..... don't forget to subscribe so you can find me when you have to do some other work to your car. :) Take Care.
Thank you. You were utterly clear and so patient.
You are welcome @Ian Chong Glad to help out. :)
Excellent video. Thank you. Comprehensive - no facet of the job left uncovered. Subscribed.
You are welcome @Louis Gara glad to help out. :)
Excellent video. Very easy to follow.
Thank you @orocovix11 Glad it worked for you.
You make the best technical videos thank you
Thank You @hammondjones9484
Thank you so much. We're in the middle of a cold snap and my heater quit. It started only working on certain settings and then not being consistent. And then quit altogether on a super cold freezing rain day. So I used your videos to replace my resistor and my blower fan. And now it is working so I do have heat. And that is great except it's still sometimes clicking and not Turn it on. I hope you're still out there answering questions
Next time I tried it worked perfectly, 5 days later total failure again.
You are welcome @aubraehersel7720 Clicking? as in the fan is not turning on? Could be a switch or a wiring issue.
Time to get the meter out and check the switch and the wiring.
@@IamWedge Thanks for replying. I did figure it but I had to take it to someone to help fucking expensive. They had to remove my radio and hold control in system. My controls were sorted out and the plugs were melted
Thank you for the excellent video. I replaced both the resistor and the blower motor at the same time since I wasn't sure which was the problem. Both parts looked a little gross (condensation damage?). In any case, guess what? It works! Thank you so much!
I appreciate this video very much. It was so detailed and easy to follow. Thanks to this video my replacement was successful and saved me a ton of money.
You are welcome @PointBlankw00t Having good detail is what helps someone with no experience complete a task like a professional. I'm glad my video helped you to replace the resistor. I'm more than happy to help my viewers save some money. Like I always say, "Don't be afraid to work on your car."
Top tier diy vids. Im planning to do the blower and resistor at the same time. Thank you!
Thank you @Chris McLaughlin please let me know you it turns out for you.
Thank you! Made it so easy. Mine was wet when I pulled it out so checked my windshield area to try to find a leak. I couldn't, and when I tried the new resistor, all speeds work now instead of the highest one 😞 I'm still happy, don't have to freeze on my way to work now
You are welcome @Allibean008
@@IamWedgeany chance you could upload a video showing how to replace the controller??
What an awesome job. You, sir, are a great presenter. I changed out my 2014 Impreza. Thank you! You obviously take great care in staging the presentation.
My Resistor was slightly different from yours. No fins. You may be able to remove it without removing the housing.
Thank You @Jorge Madrazo I've seen way to many videos on car repair that leave people guessing. I shot this once and had out-of-focus shots (I didn't like). So I shot it again I had lighting issues.... I got it figured out on the fourth attempt. I had taken the part out so many times that I actually broke the plastic locks that hold it in place. So, I ended up buying a new part. (When I shot the video My Resistor was working) In the long run if the one I just put in fails down the road. I have my original working one. Will just swap electronics in the housing. You resistor must be from a Premium model with a manual HVAC system. Thanks once again for stopping by. Take Care.
Was looking at mine today after watching the video wondering if I to get away without removing all that as well lol did yoh try it successfully? My a/c crapped out today heard a pfft then zero air hot or cold. After watching some good videos like this one I'm figuring it's either the resistor or relays since the compressors still working. Just hear a quiet click when I turn the fan on coming from the center console left side.. Maybe the blower motors bad but the fan spins smoothly like Wedge said so thinkin that might not be toast lol.
@@Jordan-ql6tm DId you have a Premium or a limited edition car?
@@IamWedge I was told it's a base STI but it does have the auto climate controls which seems to be a limited n premium option and limited shows up when I enter my vin online lookin up her value like on my AAA app & credit karma reviewing my old loan info.
@@Jordan-ql6tm So your fan spins up? It works on all setting on the fan selector? DO you hear the fan speed up with each notch you click up?
Instructions super easy to follow. Thanks for a great video...
Thank You @Jim Burke You are welcome. :)
Another nice video. And another example of Subaru Stupidity as this should be located near the relays.
As always... leave it to an Engineer.
Excellent tutorial! Thanks Wedge!
Thank You @sontagkevin You are welcome. :)
Thank you! everyone else was doing the non automatic resistor.
My 2014 was a little different but I after watching this it was a breeze! hahaha. (nobody laughs at my jokes but me) When I ordered the part from a dealer the guy looked at me as if I was a loon. Thank you, thank you, thank you for your help!
2014 Which model? Cause I did this on my 2014 Crosstrek. Dealers always look at the public like that. Working on your own car... Oh no bring it in and let us charge you for and hour or two for a simple job. Glad my video was able to help you out. :)
@@IamWedge Outback. Again, thank you!
@@kittykitty0422 You are VERY WELCOME!!!
Thank you, sir! Great step by step, saved me some money.
You are welcome @Matt Glad it helped you out!
You're videos are so official you're doing a great job you should have someone make your videos a cover photo to attract in more people maybe get a shirt with your channel on it great helpful videos man!
Thank You @Lance Mitchell
Hi, video is nice and on point. I have limited 2017 is this the same exact procedure and what year model is in the video? Thanks in advance.
Thank you @Drazen Kucuk Mine is a 2014 Crosstrek Limited. It should be pretty close on the 2017model. I think 2018 was when they did many changes. But that could have been just exterior cosmetics.
Hello Doug. Hope you're fine! Thx for sharing. Just wanted to give you some support! 👍👍👍💙💙💙
Mikey
Hi ya Mikey Everything is going great. Thanks for stopping by Brother. :)
Thank you very much for all the detail in this video! My fan will not turn on no matter what setting it’s on. I had a friend take a quick look. He unplugged the connector and plugged it back in. It worked the rest of the day. After getting home and turning off the car for the night, upon turning on the car the next morning, again the fan does not turn on. Do you think it could be a bad resistor? Thanks in advance!
Hi @Pottery by Chris Burch I would remove that bottom cover have your car running turn the fan on and give the motor a tap from below. Sometimes it can be a dead spot in the motor. If it doesn't do anything. Try the resistor again. I would try each setting on the fan section knob. If it works on the first setting but 2 and 3 don't work then 4 does, its probably the resistor. It could even be a bad pigtail (plug in). Let me know what you find out.
Thank you for your video saved me a trip the shop
Glad to help you out @jjftorn. What year was your vehicle?
Wrx 2018
@@jjftorn Very nice!
Awesome video! Thanks for bringing us along!
Thank you @sjohnson1776 Any time :)
Hi! I have a 2014 Crosstrek Automatic CVT Premium, do I need to replace the just the motor resistor 72226FG001 or the whole HVAC Blower Motor Control Module 73533YC000? I'm confused if the resistor is a part of the control module or separate parts
If you have the premium model you have the Manual HVAC system. Remove your glove box and look in the back on the left. See the opening at the 5:43 mark in the video? Look in there. do you see screws on the sides of the blower motor resistor? If yes, you will need 72226FG001. That part is called a Blower motor resistor. The other one (for Auto HVAC, On the limited models) is called a control module. But, most everyone calls it a resistor as well.
OK, so trying to help my daughter with her 2000 Outback. Heater quit working. Middle of winter. All fuses test good. Heater and AC relays test good. Removed plug to heater blower and jumped blower motor to 12 v battery. Fan sounds great. She thinks light to rear window defrester button stopped lighting around same time and doesn't defrost window (just coincidence?) Fan switch does not activate fan at any speed. Would bad resistor cause this not to work at all? If we take heater control panel out, is it possible to jump the plug with the ignition on to see if activates the blower? Which wires would we jump? Also, we will follow your directions to test the resistor. Any thoughts? Outback still going with over 300,000 plus miles. Great video by the way.
@paulsteffy949 I don't have schematics for a 2000 Outback. There are a few things that could be an issue. An Issue with wiring, Maybe there is a bad ground. Bad pigtail. I would test the pigtail at the blower motor resistor. See if there is power going in. Test the ohms on the switch and or the wires going to that pigtail. Try searching for a schematic for a 2000 Outback HVAC system. Test all that before you start buying parts to throw at an issue. Good Luck.
I replaced mine, 2014. My part was a bit different than yours part 72226FG001. But I replaced it and still having the same issue. Only blowing on setting 2 and 4, won’t work on 1/3. Any other thoughts on what may cause this issue? Appreciate the help. This was a great video explanation.
You must have a manual HVAC system. Is your car a Premium? As for your issue. It could be an issue with the fan speed selector on the climate control. You will have to test the switch. The pigtail ( the ends that plug into the resistor and the climate control center) might be at fault. Ive seen the metal connectors not fully seated in the plastic housing. So, take a look at the pigtails and see if the metal connectors inside the pigtails are fully seated. While you are looking at the wires check to see how they are with a meter as well. Let me know how it turns out for you @Tyler Cerise
I have a 2017 forester, fan switch setting 1 and 4 dont work, would this likely be the resistor? Or another issue relating to the electrical system?
@logangow1640 Your best bet is to take a meter to the switch to see if the switch has issues first. Nothing worse than throwing parts at a car.
Thanks for this informative video. Does yhis same resistor control the temperature as well? I have issue where air only comes out as if its on the highest setting and also aot ismy cold/cool unless its on LO.
Great video. Did you remove the passenger seat to do this job?
No, Just set it all the way back.
I have a 2013 Impreza. When turning my fan speed knob, I see the a/c light blink on/off and hear a clicking from behind the glove box. Does this sound like the same problem? I know it's hard to diagnose over internet but would rather not waste time/money at the dealership. Thank you
It could be any number of things. A bad switch, a wiring issue, Or the blower motor could be bad. I do have a video about the blower motor as well. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html
(I would remove the glove box and the cab filter and see if you can rotate the fan with your finger tip. WARNING... If you have the key on and the fan selector on a speed and you try rotating the fan it might take off quickly. Mind your fingers. My email is watermarked at the bottom of all my DIY videos. Feel free to email me. I can send you a link for a service manual.
man this info for free? thank you brother i will change mine , very Awesome info.
@the one 2020 That's right save yourself the trip to the dealership. Keep your money in your pocket.. :)
@@IamWedge for sure. Thanks brother😃
I have ac problem subaru 2013 xv. When swich ac speed turn to auto blower only work for 1 second after this no blower is working . Let me know what part is cousing this problem. I have test blower motor to battery is working normally.
Does the Fan speed selector work though all the other speed settings?
Not working sir . No blower fan work when selector speed move trought all speed.
@@highbuyard I would start by testing the switch with a meter. Then testing for power at the motor. Did you check the fuse yet?
You're the man! Thanks for sharing this
No problem! Happy to help. :)
So if my fan is intermittent on my 08 Subaru Outback and comes on when I rap the blower this part is not the problem? I’m getting power and when it does work it runs normally and has all speeds available.
@xraynomad Sounds like you have a dead spot in the motor or a dad connection.
I replaced the blower resistor but still don't have consistent blower. The switch has to be jiggled around for it to work. My question is can I buy only the speed control switch or do I have to buy the whole control panel
I have a 2013 Impreza.
So either you have a bad plug-in on the back or a faulty switch. I think the climate control system is all one piece. You could get one from a junkyard.
Hey Buddy 15 ctosstrek hvac controller not working . Fuses ok. Do you think the controller is broken. Vent controll cables and fan work good. Ac blue light inop.. no power to the blower.
Have you tested the power going into the Blower?
Any insight on make and model of subaru shown? Or how similar they are on others. I have a 2015 outback 2.5 I'll be doing this on
Hey @Christina Horrell I did this on my 2014 Crosstrek Limited. The Resistor is generally in the same place on most Subarus.
hi doug ..great seeing you buddy ..u really missed in the drone community .hope u keeping well ..
Hi Ya Tomas! Yeah, I just haven't had any time to go out and fly my drones. I'm hope to in the next couple of weeks. We are doing well. Hope the same for you as well. Thanks for stopping by. :)
You can day that again Tomas 👍👍💙💙
Perfect video for us guys that need help THS
Thanks @jeffcoakley5675 I try to leave any guess work out of a project, that anyone can do.
Hello, very well made video. I have a 2010 Legacy 3.6r and over the last 2 years or so the blower for either AC or Heat would start up when I wanted to when I did a cold start. But sometimes after turning the car back on (coming back after shopping etc) it wouldnt start up until I would drive a short bit. Last week its been very erratic taking much longer than usual and now for the last 3 days its not blowing at all. Checked both blower fuses from the engine bay and 2 fuses from the interior for AC with a multimeter and they seem to be ok. I removed the climate control module (the one with all buttons no dials) and looked at the plug and seemed fine, no burns etc. When I turn on windshield defrost I hear a click in the glove box area which I've read is the relay. I can fainly feel heat from the vents but only a very weak radiant kind of heat. So would this be a resistor issue or is the blower itself at fault? Will try to replace the resistor but would like to know if its something else before spending money on parts I dont need. Will update when I fix the issue one way or another. Thanks!
Hey @Joe Mama Most times if the blower motor resistor is bad you will notice the blower motor will only work on certain fan speed settings. I do have a blower motor video. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html YOu said you have already tested some of your connections. You can remove the glovebox and the cabin filter. If the fan isn't turning, you can try the following. (You might want to have a glove on for this.) I did this one mine. With the fan on a lower speed setting try and give the fan a quick slight rotation. If it starts up it might give your fingers a little grinding. The plastic is sharp so it might hurt. Why I suggested gloves. If it starts rotation, try all the fan settings and see if the speed increases. If the blower motor is failing you might hear a squeaking or knocking sound. It can also speed up and slow down on its own. (Without changing the settings and not on AUTO) Go look at the other video and let me know what you end up doing. Take Care.
@@IamWedge So this morning I left for an appointment, set the defrost on max fan at 70f and as expected the blower didnt turn on at all. Was hoping I'd get lucky and it'd start itself after short bit of driving but no luck. I remember reading somewhere that tapping the blower or slapping the dash or underside of the glove box might kick start the blower while the car is running. I carry a small umbrella in the car so I used that and gave a few solid whacks under the glove box while at parked and at idle and sure enough the blower started right away and got heat no issues, and I can control speed from min to max no issues. I took the car out much later in the day and the fan started up no issues. However around 3 or 4 speed I can definitely hear constant rattle or knocking, but not at max or min speeds. Tomorrow I will take out the glove box (did it before to replace the cabin filter) and see if something is obstructing the fan. If a solid whack under the glove box would make the blower work right away is that then an issue with the blower itself and would rule out a resistor change and instead a blower replacement?
@@joemama5906 Yeah, it sounds like your blowermoter needs replacing. The brushes are probably worn out. When you strike it it's giving that little bump contact and allows the motor to start spinning. The rattling you are hearing is the slop in the bearing. The armature is moving excessively. Here's how to replace the blower motor. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html
Recently in my 2015 Legacy, the blower stopped working completely. Could it still be the resistor, or does that indicate the blower motor needs to be replaced?
I would check the fuse(s) for the blower motor first if they are good. Time to start probing with a meter to see if there is power to the fan.
Excellent video, sir 👍thanks so much 👌
Thank You @Frank Johnson. You are Welcome. :)
Very good mechanic!
Thanks @Richard Reed.
Hey Doug: My Crosstek fan stopped blowing suddenly. the control ights up but the fan doen't work in any setrting. Also my airconditioner knob controll doesn;t light up in any setting, and neither the AC or the healter works. Any help here? Is it the resistor, fan or both? How can I be sure? Thanks in advance.
Look under the dash fuse panel.
Check fuses 27 and 28 they are the two bottom left ones. Those are for the blower fan. Look at Fuse number 31 off to the right of those two. That one is for the Auto Air Conditioner. Let me know if this helps.
@@IamWedge Hey Doug, thanks. I checked them .Not burned out. The problem is the blower motor resistor.I tried to turn the center panel dial and heard a scratchy noise. On position 4, I was able to engage the blower and the AC worked full blast. I am going to get a new blower motor resistor and follow your excellent tutorial on replacing it. I'll repost whn I get it done. You are great! I'm subscribing.
@@henryfried7804 So you had no other issues with any of fan selection speeds leading up to complete failure? I know last year at this time, I was having issues with my blower motor. So, I had to do a video about that as well. I decided to the video about the resistor, (mine wasnt broken). But I kept having issues while filming it. The auto focus kept going out of focus and I wasn't going to edit a bad video. Another filming the audio dropped out. So as I was filming it the third time I actually broke the plastic casing of the resistor. So I went to Subaru and bought a new one. Then shot the video AGAIN. People wonder when you edit a video and you have three different shirts on. LOL Shooting again worked. Let me tell you its not always easy making some of these videos. Between pausing the change camera positions, getting interrupted by UPS, FedEx or the mail carrier, maybe the neighbors dog gets outside and start barking, a plane flies over. It all ads up to time. I believe in giving my subs content that they can see and has the best audio I can give them. Thanks for your kind words @Henry Fried
@@IamWedge Doug Your video is great.no worries,it gets straight to the point.Most videos are far too talky. Your videos are straight to the point. Let me get to the point: Initially I wasn't sure what my problem was. The fan just wouldn't turn on . However, after playing with the middle fan speed adjuster knob in the dash panel, I notice the following . As I changed positions from 0,1,2,3, I could hear a static like,scratchy sound.It reminded me of an old radio whose tuner is out. So as with and old tuner, I tried to hover a bit around the setting for each fan speed. When I got to position 4, it turned on and the fan and the AC worked!!!!. This proved that the HVAC blower control module resistor was shot ,like an old radio tuner. And since the AC and the fan worked, neither the fan or the comprerssor was bad,only the switch!!!!
The part is around $70 from Heuberger SUBARU.Part Number: 73533YC000 for my car. Again thanks for your work,I would reccomend you to anyone who wants to self diagmose and fix their Subaru.
I'm glad you got it sorted out @Henry Fried I thank you for your recommendation(s),
Ive found your vids regarding the resistor and blower motor. I am having a hard time finding location of the blower motor relay, not resistor. Do you by chance know which relay is for the blower motor?
Thank you for taking the time to make a video!
Yes, I do @Lindsey Bates My email is at the bottom of the video. Drop me an email and I will send you a pic of where you need to look. Much easier than trying to describe it.
@@IamWedge @Iamwedge thank you for your response! I found it. Someone had unplugged the blower and tucked the harness and relay back behind the kick panel. Had to use my ohms meter to determine some faulty fuses as well. Lil boogers looked fine. After that and getting blower plugged in I have the AC kicking on and off and the blower fully functional. HOWEVER I'm only getting mid temp air. No hot, no cool. I put my gauge on the low pressure Freon and it's darn near maxed out. I filled up the water reservoir incase that was keeping the heater core from doin its thing but still no go. The only other thing I would be able to think is the temp knob its self. It is the 'limited' auto HVAC. So it doesn't have mechanical cables. It just seems like if it was that, it would break either one way hot or one way cold, rather than just flat room temp... Any suggestions?? And I'm in AL so Subies aren't abundant in the south to run to pull-a-part etc..
@@lindseybates3079 Could be an issue with the Air Mix Door Actuator or the climate (temp) controls You can download the service manual if you like. sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
Great video. So, could this also be the problem if my AC speed only works on the high setting? If so, I'm in on doing this. Thanks for the video.
You could have a problem with the switch or a bad connection. In most cases the resistor is bad.
@@IamWedge thanks for the response. Because of the great video, I'm ordering the part and giving it a shot.
@@ricpr Good for you. Let me know how it works out for you.
Hi Doug, excellent videos.
I have 2004 Subaru Legacy Wagon - the blower is running "slow" on all four speeds - there's air being blown out but less than historical.
Is this likely to be the blower motor or the resistor or something else...
Thanks!
Slower on all 4 speeds? Sometime it can be caused by restriction. Like a plugged cabin air filter. Usually when the resistor starts to fail only a couple of the settings would be effected. There is the possibility that the blower motor might be dying. Have you heard any clunking or rattling coming from the blower motor? There is also a possibility that you have a ground that is failing. I hope this helps.
@@IamWedge many thanks, there's no noise coming from the motor, but i will check out all the connections & fittings. Subaru replaced the air-bag inflator mechanism 2x in that area of the car so possible that somethings blocking, also the illumination on the radio/cd player is "weak" - which may be consistent with a grounding issue - i'll examine & let you know what i find... Thanks again
@@duncancresswell6324 Illumination on radio is also weak? It does sound like a bad ground. With other component getting less power it does sound like a bad ground. The voltage regulator in the alternator when it is failing will not give you enough power. Or give the battery a good charge. If you have a jump pack or a battery charger hook the positive up to the battery and that negative to a good ground. See if the speed increases or illumination increases.
@@IamWedge thanks. We had new battery 1 month ago (gone bad - we live in Arizona) - nothing changed pre/post battery change. What's best way to diagnose the alternator/voltage regulator?
You could have a shop do an alternator test. It still sounds like a ground issue.
On my 2016 Crosstrek the relay is very different. It looks like some sort of temp sensor for me and is also taken out differently. Any ideas?
Hey @Rhett Lila Do you have a Premium Model? The resistor is a little different with the manual HVAC system. This resistor is more rectangle. Look at each end. You should see screws or lock pins on the ends. The manual HVAC system on your model is a 4 terminal plug. The Automatic HVAC system (like the one in my video) is a 6 terminal plug.
Excellent video! Thank you!!
Thank You @fitman4u and you are welcome.
i’m trying to determine if this is the problem or if it’s my blower motor. any tips on how to tell for certain? it might not be either or but nothing blows at all. it used to work on like the lowest two settings not it doesn’t blow anymore
Get a meter out and test the output to the motor.
@@IamWedgeHow do I use a meter to test the voltages on the blower motor? I'm trying to help my sister fix her car, and we have an idea of what could be wrong, but we don't want to buy the wrong parts. I appreciate any feedback. I also wanted to mention that the video was excellent. It is constructive compared to other tutorials I have seen for my Mercedes. I wish you could also work on those machines as well. 😂
So my a/c started going losing power and pulling air when accelerating. My fan was making a weird noise, opened it up and removed a few leaves and still the click sound persists and fan power goes up and down like it's struggling. I've ordered the blower motor fan but now wondering if it is the resistor? Should I replace both?
Hey @Juan Vargas I have another video that explains the weird noise. Heres the link th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html
@@IamWedge thank you so very much! I switched out the blower motor with one I purchased on Amazon for cheap and it's running perfectly fine! Cycled through hot and cold and no noises or hesitation. You're a lifesaver.
@@agoodjuan AWESOME! Glad you got it fixed. Nothing worse than not having a working blower motor heading in to winter's cooler weather.
Awesome instructions! Can you comment on the difference between a HVAC Blower Motor Control Module - Subaru (73533FG000) and the Control Module - Subaru (73533YC000)? I believe the first is for a turbo charged version.
The MANUAL HVAC systems uses part number 72226FG001. The AUTO HVAC stem uses part number 73533YC000. The difference between the manual and automatic is that the manual systems climate control has a manually set temperature blend door is cable-driven. You can actually feel the resistance in the knob when you rotate it. The Automatic system is controlled electronically. The knob spins more freely without resistance. In most cases the Premium models will have the Manual HVAC where the Limited models will have the Automatic. As for the part number you listed 73533FG000 That part number has been replaced with 72226FG001 (it's all listed in the description wrote up for this video). It is still for a Manual HVAC system. Hope this helps.
@@IamWedge Thanks Wedge! I just ordered the newer part (72226FG001) and it cost less, too.
72226FG001 didn’t fit. I think I still need 73533YC000.
@@cesarpizarro812 Whats the number on the one you took out?
I changed out the resistor and my fan still cuts out at 3rd fan setting and nothing but relay clicking at 3-5 with a cut out fan... any tips on what else I should be looking at or considering? (2014 Crosstrek XV Automatic)
@stefanski8287 I would test your fan switch. That could be your fault in the circuit. If the contacts in the fan switch are bad it might be your problem. You did say you hear clicking.
@@IamWedge it's the relay module next to the fan inside the glove compartment that's clicking when speeds 3 & 4 are being selected... otherwise fan speeds 1 and 2, hot/cold, and all other manual settings work normally.
@@stefanski8287 Did you ever find a solution to this? I'm about to replace my motor resistor as well, but I also have the clicking issue and I'm nervous the resistor wont fix the issue. I have the same car model too.
@@nicholasmartens8541 the cause of the issue is water/moisture intrusion... my contacts on the resistor were corroded, so I had to replace the resistor... my harness also melted down at the connection point between fan blower speed (manual unit FJ050) which the dealership messed up even more when 'diagnosing'
apparently the water intrusion/moisture causes corrosion of contacts which causes amp spikes which leads to a meltdown...
per bulletin notice, Subaru recommends changing to an upgraded filter and blower motor unit
search online for Blower-Motor-MC-10169881-0001.pdf bulletin
as far as the melted component on the manual switch that is only offered as a complete unit assembly (even thought that fan switcher part should be available as a standalone part)
you can order replacement connection harness from iWire
@@nicholasmartens8541 I'd also call Subaru of America and voice your concern over it, since it's a prevelant issue across multiple models and years...
Hello @IamWedge ! I really enjoyed your video and I would need a little advice before going into this. I have a subaru Forester 2009. 2 weeks ago my heating stops working. I change the fuse that was blown (#22) and it worked, so I was pretty happy about it but was wondering on how long it would last. So yesterday it blown again (#22). I change it again this morning and it works in all position/setting/power (0-4, cold or hot, back defrost). Made some research and arrived here... what should be my next step to be ready for winter? Thanks you so much for your time!
Hi @Dominique Laliberté First question I would ask is how well is the blower fan spinning? Any squeaking or noise coming from it? If the Blower motor is wearing out it might blow the fuse. But there is a possibility of a wire that may be shorting out somewhere under the dash. You might have to take it in to a shop and have them look at it. There is another possibility as well. Fuse #22 is suppose to be a 15Amp fuse. SO make sure you have a 15 Amp fuse in there. Anyhow, Fuse #22 controls the following: Air conditioner, Rear window defogger relay coil. Is the fuse blowing when you use the rear window defogger? Let me know what you find out. Good Luck
IamWedge wow thanks for the answer! When the fuse blows, nothing work (Heater and back rear window heater), when I replace it, everything works (all speeds, all strengths). I saw something about the wires too, I think I’ll look under the gloves compartment to see if I detect something by myself. I’ll keep you in touch ;-) have a good day!
@@dominiquelaliberte4519 Heres what I would do. Just use your heater. DON'T turn on the window defogger. See how the fuse does. Turn the heater off...... then try the rear window defogger. Its possible the problem might be in a short in the rear window defroster. Let me know what you find out.
@@IamWedge So after a few tests:
- Heater works all speed all strength alone
- Window defogger works all speed all strength alone
- All works simultaneously all speed all strength alltogether
Now it was on a short ride, so I wonder if with time it will blow, like the first time I changed it, it didn't blow right away...
@@dominiquelaliberte4519 The Idea is to figure out which is giving you the issue. SO, try a week without the rear window defogger on. Is your window freezing over that you have to have it on? YOuhave to remember what also happened when you blew the fuse. Were you taking a left or right turn? Did you hit a bump? YOu know something that will give the car a good jolt. I live in Minnesota and I just warm up my car with the heater before I drive. I rarely drive with my rear window defroster on. It doesn't have to be on just because its cold out.
I’ve been having issues with my Blower Motor on my 2017 Toyota 86. I figure since 90% of that car made by Subaru and in their factory I’d ask.
My AC has gone on and off for the past 2 weeks, the Blower Motor seemed fine and wasn’t working before I removed it, then I took it out, plugged it back in, and it worked instantly. The Relay is easier to access but didn’t seem worn or damaged so I left it. The AC worked good until I drove the car again and it started make clicking noises like before until it went out.
Could it be my relay???
Is the clicking.... (or clunking) coming from the blower motor? You will be able to notice the blower motor slowing and speeding up on its own. The motor will completely. Stop at times and won't work. It sounds like your blower motor is just worn out. I do also have a video on the blower motor. I talk about what they do when they fail. Let me know what happens with yours.
@@IamWedge The clicking is coming from the Blower Motor. The air coming from the vents feels really weak even on the highest settings. But I had it replaced under warranty by Toyota at 25k miles a year ago, and now I’m at 40k miles and it’s been happening again for a few months now. Toyota claimed initially that it was the Blower Motor, but now I’m thinking it’s the Relay. My warranty has already expired and I plan to replace it myself.
Also, when I remove the motor from under-neither the dash, the clicking noise stops and the motor runs perfectly fine in my hand with no issue, but once I place it back into its location, the clicking is faint but gets louder overtime until completely stops working again. There’s also a mild hum coming from the Relay.
@@tofu_drew When my blower motor was dying in my Subaru it started off with faint clicks. Then it turned to clunking and the motor started slowing down. At times it would restart itself. It was getting colder out, so I took my glove box out and the air filter and had to give the fan on the blower motor a little turn. Yes, it took off and it did grind on my finger a bit. So if you plan to try that be careful of nicking your fingers. Im leaning towards your fan is failing again. Where do you plan to purchase your next fan? BTW... what is the year, make and model of your car?
@@IamWedge It’s a 2017 Toyota 86
I plan on getting an OEM Blower Motor if it turns out to be that. But for now I just purchased an aftermarket Relay, once I have get it installed I’ll go from there.
@@tofu_drew One other thing you can do is look inside the housing where you pull the blower motor out of. Check the side wall for any rubbing. You can also look at the Fan to see if its been rubbing on anything inside that housing. Spin the fan by hand and see if the "air mover" blade is on straight. Once you have the old one out hold the base of the fan and with your other hand grab the plastic fan. Try to pull it away and then push it back. notice if there is a lot of inwards and outwards movement. While you are holding on it try rocking the plastic side to side again this checks for play. Not try that with your new one. I bet you see a difference. You can also check to see how well it spins. Try the old fan then try the new one. You will notice the difference. The 86 is a really nice car btw. I to have a Toyota. Its much older. 87 Supra Turbo 5 Spd. Needless to say, it's not stock anymore. LOL
Very detailed. Awesome.
Thank You @John Perricone I looked around I didn't see to many video that explained it or showed how to do it. You will find most of my DIY videos are shown with detail. No sense is making people guess. I actually shot that video 4 or 5 times. Couldn't deal with blocking the shot or out of focus shots. Plus.... I was doing it with a good working part...... which I broke on the 4th filming. Means I have a back up part. LOL
@@IamWedge i got 2 foresters & 1 STI
@@lagg-alot8308 Which one did you have to replace it on?
Would this apply to a 2022 crosstrek?
Great video, thanks!
@ksauto1 You are welcome!
Would this cause the air to acted up? Mine is acting weird. When I have the air conditioning off and just the fan on it blows like the air conditioning is on. When I have the sir conditioning on it blows hot air when the car is under pressure going up hills
Sounds like you have an issue with your A/C
IamWedge I have also noticed when I changed the cabin filter that it seemed like it had been sucked down towards the blower. And after watching some more videos It seems like the fan has to be turned almost to full speed to get air moving. I have the 6 speed fan
I’m concerned about taking it to the dealer and having to bend over $$.
@@traciebjornson7702 Can you hear the fan speeding up through each selection on the fan switch?
@@traciebjornson7702 Does the A/C Clutch engage and disengage?
How do i know of i have an automatic or manual hvac system?
A Premium Crosstrek in most cases have a manual system. A Limited Crosstrek has an automatic. Look at this google search. www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-e&q=2014+Subaru+Crosstrek+blower+resistor You will see two different types of resistors. One is thin and small, (Manual), the other thick and bulky (Automatic)
Great video Thanks!
You are Welcome @sittingby thepool and Thank you!
I just tried this and it didn’t fix the problem :/I have a 13 trek with manual a/c. Fan speed 1 does not work but 2,3,4 work. I checked fuses inside and they are fine. Any other suggestions? Thanks!
Test the fan speed selector switch.
@@IamWedgethanks for the reply. I checked it today and the pigtail coming out the dash was burnt where the pin for speed 1 and the knob as well. Is it easy to replace the pig tail? It goes back to the dash and is wrapping in electrical tape. Not sure if that needs to replace and the switch for speed knob too. All other speeds are working fine so I might just leave it if it’s too much trouble.
@@schecter7x Pigtails are really easy to replace. The new pigtail comes with a length of wire. Just don't cut too much of the old out. I would solder the new connections. Black tape is fine... I prefer electrical shrink tubes. If you are comfortable replacing the fan speed selector, go for it!
What if my 1st, 2nd, and 3rd settings aren't working?
You might end up having to take a meter to the fan switch to see if the switch is working properly. There is also a possibility of an issue with the wiring.
I have completed this and still nothing, the heat and ac won’t blow at all. Idk what else to do
Did you check your fuse? If the fuse is good. Take a meter and test for power.
Great video, but you don’t need to take everything apart. Just taking the glove box out gives plenty of access
The reason for taking everything out is so the area can be filmed. Yes, you can access it through the glove box. But most people that will attempt to work on their car will want to see what they are doing. Not stuff the arm in a hole and hope for the best, while blindly feeling around. It's not that complicated to remove the glove box.
If you have small enough hands and arms you can reach through that hole and pull the resistor out
I had to take all this apart so I can have the camera shooting it.... My arm/ hand and more than likely my big head would be in the way. :) But yes @Austin Cooper Once you see what you have to do, it might be possible to do it through the hole.
Well done.
Thank You @fireFly
what can I do to make my ac vents blow out harder air? the motor isn't broken how can I make it cool down the cabin more?
Use The Recirc (recirculation) button. I usually start with fresh air till I get some chilled air in the cab. Then tab the Recirc button. (On my 2014 Crosstrek its the center fan button. Just push it down to turn it on. Push again to turn it off. When on you are using the air inside the cab rather than drawing fresh air. You will notice the increase in volume.
THANK YOU
You are welcome @John Scarlato
Is that resistor with temperature control or no?
2014 impreza
@@memostill It's a BLOWER MOTOR Resistor. It controls the blower motor. Not temperature control.
my works sometimes you think is resistor?
Well, whats you blower motor doing? I do also have a video on the Blower motor. You might want to look at that to see if you are having those symptoms. th-cam.com/video/1NkOk_uI9Go/w-d-xo.html
my subaru tribeca works for 5 minutes and then stop working. i don’t know is this part or the blower
@@TheMemo1776 did you watch the blower motor video I left in the last reply?
Well I ordered the part and ita the wrong one my 2014 crosstrek has different one then yours bummer
The part numbers listed in the description are for the Auto HVAC. Towards the bottom is the part number listed for the Manual HVAC system. Limited Crosstreks have auto HVAC. Premium Crosstreks have the manual HVAC system.
From above "Part Number (for MANUAL HVAC systems is) 72226FG001
(Verify your part number for the Manual systems. Above number replaces 72226FG000, 72226FJ000
The location is the same, the part is just a little different. It still has a plug to remove. It is held in place by two screws. Just remove the screws off the sides. Remove the old part and replace it with the new one."
Can you define “manual system”?
The Manual system uses control cables to control the system. This is found on Premium Models. Whereas an automatic system uses components to control the system. Auto HVAC is found on the Limited Models.
@@IamWedge I have a 2013 Crosstrek with 3 knobs that control the HVAC system. Is this manual or automatic?
Great video , thank you!
Glad you found it useful @Craig Ellingsworth You are welcome. :)
My Crosstrek's A/C seems to get really cold when I'm driving. I've replaced the blower motor fan but not the resistor yet... could tht be the cause or is it something more serious?
Your A/C is getting really cold? If you are using the re-circulation function it will get cooler. Also the A/C will get cooler while driving as air travels past the condenser.
"A/C seems to get really cold when I'm driving"... maybe I am misunderstanding what you're saying, but isn't "get really cold" the entire point of the A/C?
When I turn on the ignition the blower spins for 1 second only and then nothing thereafter on the Subaru Tribeca. Do you think this is also the resistor or maybe relay?
I would test the connection at the motor with a meter to see if it is receiving any voltage. You could also test the motor with battery power. (a Jumper wire). If the motor spins then odds are you have a faulty resistor. You can also test the speed controller with a meter. Being the motor is spinning up for a second odds are the motor is receiving a quick shot of power, then nothing. As I stated above, I would confirm it with a meter.
@@IamWedge It was the resistor that was bad and once we replaced it everything is working! I did blow a ton of dust out of the blower motor with the air compressor gun and hoping both parts will be good for a long time. Thank you for helping to save money!
@@mwjmk That's GREAT @mwjmk !!! Congrats on saving yourself a chunk of cash. Give yourself a pat on the back for doing it yourself! Thanks for watching.