This is probably one of the best videos for an LS swap into a 2.2L S10. Instructional and detailed; you take a lot of guessing out of the game for the DIYer. Thanks!
@@wildestcowboy2668 uh no it's not 3000rpm thru a .410 is 60 mph with 29" tires a guy I know has a fox bodysuit gear same height tires has same speed in drive
Hell.... Now days, LS swaps can be done in two days on S10's, if you have all the parts on hand. In little as a day with a buddy or two and some beers!
The "goal" is to finish the swap in 30 days / 4 weeks. Not a speed record by any means, but I work a full time job and have other stuff to do, so it's mainly a couple nights a week and a few hours on the weekend to get it done.
I still have my springs in mine no need to change them it's not even 200 lbs heavier in the front. Because the 5 speed I took out is way heavier than the power glide my s10 only weighs 3050lb
Yep, the stock gen 3 truck pan. Nothing "fancy" like a H3 or TBSS pan. I even went overkill on the notch so there's 1-2" clearance around some of the cutout.
Wait what year is that one? Because the s10s are really similar to if not same to the Sonoma's but it looks like the second gen but not? If that makes sense
You also have to change out front springs if your truck came with the 2.2 , springs aren't heavy enough for the 5.3 ...Im also upgrading front brakes to Blazer front brakes with duel calipers ....
I read that too, so I added the extra coil shocks since I needed new shocks anyways, but now my front end sits higher then stock. Also the extended cab and long bed 2.2L trucks came with the same springs as the 4.3L trucks( AC Delco 45H0154 and 45H0169) . It's only the short bed reg cab 2.2L trucks that came with the different spring (AC Delco 45H0153).
How different is the weight of the 5.3 vs a 350 sbc? I had a 2003 s10 2.2 I did a swap of a 350 in with old cast iron heads and kept power steering and A/C. It was still on original springs and the front end still sat about as high as factory, maybe just a hair lower. Rode like a dream going down the road too, and is still probably one of the best riding vehicles I've ever been in.
The mounts were from ebay, so not branded. If you search for LS swap S10 engine mounts, a bunch come up for around $50, they all look the same. For the trans I used the stock S10 cross member, drilled an extra hole about an inch from the stock hole, and notched the tube for the trans. Unfortunately I lost all the footage from the cross member notching but it was pretty easy. Bolts to the stock frame rail location and everything.
I've read that you don't need to notch the cross-member, but I haven't used a H3 pan so I can't confirm. If you don't use AC then you wouldn't need the front/side notch at all.
How does this do cruising on the freeway? I'm doing a similar build. Stock 5.3/4l60e with a 8.5 rear-end thar has a 3.08 gear. I'm trying to decide on a tire size. It's between a p225/70r15 like your going with or a p235/60r15. 225s are a little taller but the 235s are more sporty looking. I ran 225s on my 99 Sonoma with no problems. Plus the 225s are cheaper.the 225s would be around 1800 rpm at 70 mph and the 235s would be about 2000 rpm at 70 mph. I'm building a fun driver not a racer.
I didn't have to cut anything. The only firewall work I did was hammer the welded seam flat, and I don't think that was completely necessary but helps for hand clearance behind the motor.
Doing the same swap on my 1995 S10, can't use my factory 4L60E due to the fact the Bellhousing is one piece and the collar would have to be cut off. Ford 8.8 here as well but looking at 3:42 gears ..
@@wilsworkshop plan on using daily, so gas mileage is important, a 5.3 is powerful enough so I'm not drag racing but I believe that a 4:10 is too much as is a 3:73 plus rear wheel spin on wet pavement. I'm upgrading to the 16" Extreme wheels with 235/60/16 , did a computer comparison and they are almost identical in tire revolution to the factory P205/75/15.. I'm running P255/60R15 right now and I like them.
Nice, you'll be more then happy with that combination. The good news is there's plenty of ratios available for the 8.8 if you changed your mind later. I can't remember if I mentioned it in a video or if it was part of some footage I lost, but I picked up some 2.73 gears from a 2010 mustang to use for this S10. Should be low highway cruising RPM, gear set was only $30 at the junkyard and looks perfect. I'll have a gear install video when the time comes.
@@wilsworkshopThank you for the reply! unfortunately I do have a 2.2L. Any suggestions on a good trans that would handle a mild street/strip build? Thanks again.
If you can find a 5 speed from a 4.3L s10 they can handle around 300hp. Some early 2000's 4.8L Silverados also came with a 5 speed, but are rare to find. Beyond that you usually have to step up to a T56 or CD009, both will cost around $2500. The cheapest trans to use is the 4L60e, cheap, plentiful, and came on millions of 5.3L's.
I bought a 4.3 radiator and recessed it into the core support. The video should be up today or tomorrow, I'll be finishing the rad install today, just 1 last part to finish on it.
My plan is to use a stock Silverado fuel pump. I should have a fuel system video up in the next week or two, it's the next item on the list. I've also read the stock S10 flex fuel pump can be used on a stock HP LS motor, so thats another option.
I'm not sure what freight shipping would cost, but it would likely be extremely expensive since I'm not equipped to ship freight (no forklift or anything). It's probably better to find one locally or have a shop do one for you. Thanks !
I have a 1998 4.3 automatic anyone know what all exactly I need to do a v 8 swap ? Been trying to find a shop to do the work but no luck as of yet....so I am trying to at least buy up all the parts I need ....
The swap is nearly identical to all the steps I took. The only real difference is you can reuse the 4.3's 4L60e if you really want to. The trans bolt pattern for the LS is basiclly the same.
The bell housing would bolt up to the engine, but I'm not sure about the torque converter being compatible with the crankshaft and flex plate on the 5.3L. The 1999-2006 5.3 4L60's are cheap and common, pretty easy to use one. The driveshaft would work for sure. I have mine installed, the length is fine and the yoke is the same spline so it slips in perfect.
You can use the stock trans if it's 96+. You'll need a torque converter pilot spacer (they're cheap) and you'll also have to oval the holes in the flex plate a little bit. Really easy job if you have a die grinder.
Possibly, there's about 100 ways to do this swap. I used the stock 5.3 truck parts to save money. LS1 pan is around $200, LS1 intake is $300-$400 with fuel rails, injectors, etc.. So this way saved me at least $500 for a pan and intake.
@@wilsworkshop i was asking in hopes you had an answer lol. ill hopefully be doing a 5.3/nv3500 swap in my 03 regular cab soon. i really dont want to cut up my frame. i dont have the talent or equipment to even do that
If it was a 4.3L it would bolt up to the LS block, but I don't know if the torque converter would work (bolt pattern and center hub nipple diameter might be differnt). If it was a 4 banger it wouldn't work for sure.
You could use one, but you might need a different fan with a different shroud shape and a higher CFM. The 4.3 Radiator with Intrepid fans is a proven setup with the LS Swap and the cost is low. A new 4.3 radiator was only $60 including shipping.
@@wilsworkshop but the 5.3 has no power steering how you do that set up ,cus my car has no power steering and I want to do the same thing ...do you have a diagram ..
Gotchya, I just had it off the engine for running on the test stand, but installed the pump later. I made the bracket to do what you're seeing, but I don't have any diagrams for it. ICT Billet has a couple bracket options that will delete the power steering pump on the engine.
You realize that 225 is the tread width in mm, right? At a 70 % aspect ratio for both the 225 should be approximately 7.5mm taller on the sidewall. It would be a much more drastic change to go to a 225/75/15 or just go to a less antiquated size like 18" or at least 17" and you could actually find tires for it and it'd open up your options for tire size. The 16 inch wheels on the zq8 suspension trucks are relatively easy to find..
@@wilsworkshop I owe you an apology. Sometimes I leave comments that I go back and read and it's quite clear that I was suffering from one of my many shortcomings but to come on your channel and comment on something that you probably know more about than me was an azzhole move and I appreciate you having the class to reply with such tact as you did! I'm sure you're a fine fella and I wish you nothing but the best!
It's no problem, I stuck with 15" mostly to keep the budget down. I'm a fan of the 17" 5-spoke type aluminum rims, but they would add around $700-$900 for the rims and tires. It's not a ton of money, but my self imposed goal of sub-$3000 for the total build means some sacrifice. Plus the 15's worked with the brake upgrades, so it was kinda cool to keep them for a total sleeper look. It's still pretty easy to find 15" tires, I paid around $200 for a set of 4 for this.
No offense but cutting that section for your ac looks dangerous again is your truck u can do water ever u want with it but I would save the money and pay a little extra for the ac brackets for your swap
Compared to my other videos, notching and boxing a non-structural part of the frame is pretty tame. A/C relocation brackets do make things easier, but I'm poor.
I'm well aware they're LM7's, L59's, LH6's, etc.. But calling it a LS swap is the common use term and covers the whole family of motors. Meow if I was telling someone it was a LS1 and not a LM7, then you might have a point.
Dumb question if you just replace the oil pan you don't have to notch correct? Since you notched it is it easier to pull oil pan off without pulling motor? If the gasket fails later
It depends on the pan and more importantly the engine placement. A pan was around $350 and with how low I wanted the engine to clear a stock hood I would have likely had to notch anyways. So a day of cutting and welding for the stock pan to fit was easier and cheaper. Clearance from pan bottom to frame top was about 1/4", so no chance of pulling the pan with the engine bolted in even with the notch.
They're pretty easy to modify, good ground clearance, basic RWD chassis, tons of proven mods, cheap parts, cheap vehicle to purchase. Just about the perfect low buck "hot rod".
This is probably one of the best videos for an LS swap into a 2.2L S10. Instructional and detailed; you take a lot of guessing out of the game for the DIYer. Thanks!
Glad it helped, I tried to condense as much of the critical info as possible into the video.
Rearend narrowed or just the other short axle in it.?
My 4.10 with 29" tires runs 3000 rpm at 60 mph.
@@tomrose6292 that's a lie
@@wildestcowboy2668 uh no it's not 3000rpm thru a .410 is 60 mph with 29" tires a guy I know has a fox bodysuit gear same height tires has same speed in drive
@@tomrose6292 28.5 maybe Thomas
Hell.... Now days, LS swaps can be done in two days on S10's, if you have all the parts on hand. In little as a day with a buddy or two and some beers!
Smartest sounding video I've seen on this subject, coherent, researched A+
Man great video, great detail.
Glad you liked it!
The "goal" is to finish the swap in 30 days / 4 weeks. Not a speed record by any means, but I work a full time job and have other stuff to do, so it's mainly a couple nights a week and a few hours on the weekend to get it done.
I still have my springs in mine no need to change them it's not even 200 lbs heavier in the front. Because the 5 speed I took out is way heavier than the power glide my s10 only weighs 3050lb
Excellent proyect
Thank you!
Nice Job!
Thanks!
Sweet more stuff ls build and track stuff please
"As....you....wish....." Wesley "Dread Pirate" Roberts, circa 1247, wstte
I've had my 383 in and out many times but put up with the struggles of leaving the front clip on.
That's a struggle for sure. Removing the front makes things much easier, and the frame rail makes a good seat.
are you using the stock truck oil pan? notching on rear of cross member dosent seem as bad as most people make it out to beot make that pan clear
Yep, the stock gen 3 truck pan. Nothing "fancy" like a H3 or TBSS pan. I even went overkill on the notch so there's 1-2" clearance around some of the cutout.
Wait what year is that one? Because the s10s are really similar to if not same to the Sonoma's but it looks like the second gen but not? If that makes sense
You also have to change out front springs if your truck came with the 2.2 , springs aren't heavy enough for the 5.3 ...Im also upgrading front brakes to Blazer front brakes with duel calipers ....
I read that too, so I added the extra coil shocks since I needed new shocks anyways, but now my front end sits higher then stock. Also the extended cab and long bed 2.2L trucks came with the same springs as the 4.3L trucks( AC Delco 45H0154 and 45H0169) . It's only the short bed reg cab 2.2L trucks that came with the different spring (AC Delco 45H0153).
How different is the weight of the 5.3 vs a 350 sbc? I had a 2003 s10 2.2 I did a swap of a 350 in with old cast iron heads and kept power steering and A/C. It was still on original springs and the front end still sat about as high as factory, maybe just a hair lower. Rode like a dream going down the road too, and is still probably one of the best riding vehicles I've ever been in.
What kinda of engine mounts did you use, and what did you use for the transmission crossmember
The mounts were from ebay, so not branded. If you search for LS swap S10 engine mounts, a bunch come up for around $50, they all look the same. For the trans I used the stock S10 cross member, drilled an extra hole about an inch from the stock hole, and notched the tube for the trans. Unfortunately I lost all the footage from the cross member notching but it was pretty easy. Bolts to the stock frame rail location and everything.
What engine mount do you recommend? I tried the Holley black heart mounts but engine head is hitting the firewall?
So that was a stock truck oil pan?Like you videos man there very informative,thanks for sharing..
Yes it was
That might be the roughest engine pull I've ever seen. Power steering?
Do you still have to notch the cross member with a h3 oil pan?
And if you delete ac do you have to cut at all?
I've read that you don't need to notch the cross-member, but I haven't used a H3 pan so I can't confirm. If you don't use AC then you wouldn't need the front/side notch at all.
@@wilsworkshop Thankee
How does this do cruising on the freeway? I'm doing a similar build. Stock 5.3/4l60e with a 8.5 rear-end thar has a 3.08 gear. I'm trying to decide on a tire size. It's between a p225/70r15 like your going with or a p235/60r15. 225s are a little taller but the 235s are more sporty looking. I ran 225s on my 99 Sonoma with no problems. Plus the 225s are cheaper.the 225s would be around 1800 rpm at 70 mph and the 235s would be about 2000 rpm at 70 mph. I'm building a fun driver not a racer.
Crusing RPM are fine, you'll be happy with either tire choice with the lower 3.08 gear.
Did you have to cut the firewall for clearance for transmission?
I didn't have to cut anything. The only firewall work I did was hammer the welded seam flat, and I don't think that was completely necessary but helps for hand clearance behind the motor.
Doing the same swap on my 1995 S10, can't use my factory 4L60E due to the fact the Bellhousing is one piece and the collar would have to be cut off. Ford 8.8 here as well but looking at 3:42 gears ..
8.8 is always a good upgrade, 3.42 is a good middle ground gear.
@@wilsworkshop plan on using daily, so gas mileage is important, a 5.3 is powerful enough so I'm not drag racing but I believe that a 4:10 is too much as is a 3:73 plus rear wheel spin on wet pavement. I'm upgrading to the 16" Extreme wheels with 235/60/16 , did a computer comparison and they are almost identical in tire revolution to the factory P205/75/15.. I'm running P255/60R15 right now and I like them.
Nice, you'll be more then happy with that combination. The good news is there's plenty of ratios available for the 8.8 if you changed your mind later. I can't remember if I mentioned it in a video or if it was part of some footage I lost, but I picked up some 2.73 gears from a 2010 mustang to use for this S10. Should be low highway cruising RPM, gear set was only $30 at the junkyard and looks perfect. I'll have a gear install video when the time comes.
Awesome build! I have a 96 s10 with a five speed can I reuse the stock transmission with a ls build?
If you have a 4.3L, then yes, the trans will bolt up to a LS engine. If you have the 2.2L then it wouldn't work.
@@wilsworkshopThank you for the reply! unfortunately I do have a 2.2L. Any suggestions on a good trans that would handle a mild street/strip build? Thanks again.
If you can find a 5 speed from a 4.3L s10 they can handle around 300hp. Some early 2000's 4.8L Silverados also came with a 5 speed, but are rare to find. Beyond that you usually have to step up to a T56 or CD009, both will cost around $2500. The cheapest trans to use is the 4L60e, cheap, plentiful, and came on millions of 5.3L's.
@@wilsworkshop Thank you for the info!!
Wassup bro. What radiator did you use? For the upper & lower ?
I bought a 4.3 radiator and recessed it into the core support. The video should be up today or tomorrow, I'll be finishing the rad install today, just 1 last part to finish on it.
What about the throttle cable ?
@@jhamp98_58 I'm going drive by wire, for free cruise control (it's build into the 2003+ stock computer)
Hey I got a 2003 s10 what are you using for a drop in fuel pump
My plan is to use a stock Silverado fuel pump. I should have a fuel system video up in the next week or two, it's the next item on the list. I've also read the stock S10 flex fuel pump can be used on a stock HP LS motor, so thats another option.
Where did you buy the 5.3? Does it fit into chevy s10 2002?
Junkyard, yep it will fit in a 2002.
I want to do a swap in my 96 4x4 jimmy.Will the 4wd be a problem
The front axle and driveshaft make it a little more challenging, but still doable. There's a few 4x4 swap videos on youtube.
How did you find somebody to drill your rotors and axles
I drilled them myself. You should be able to find a local machine shop to do it for you if you don't have the tools.
I am interested in buying that 8.8? What do you think!
I'm not sure what freight shipping would cost, but it would likely be extremely expensive since I'm not equipped to ship freight (no forklift or anything). It's probably better to find one locally or have a shop do one for you. Thanks !
I have a 1998 4.3 automatic anyone know what all exactly I need to do a v 8 swap ? Been trying to find a shop to do the work but no luck as of yet....so I am trying to at least buy up all the parts I need ....
The swap is nearly identical to all the steps I took. The only real difference is you can reuse the 4.3's 4L60e if you really want to. The trans bolt pattern for the LS is basiclly the same.
If doing this swap on a 4.3 s10.. Would the stock transmission and
.driveshaft work?
The bell housing would bolt up to the engine, but I'm not sure about the torque converter being compatible with the crankshaft and flex plate on the 5.3L. The 1999-2006 5.3 4L60's are cheap and common, pretty easy to use one. The driveshaft would work for sure. I have mine installed, the length is fine and the yoke is the same spline so it slips in perfect.
You can use the stock trans if it's 96+. You'll need a torque converter pilot spacer (they're cheap) and you'll also have to oval the holes in the flex plate a little bit. Really easy job if you have a die grinder.
Yes will crank spacer and flexplate
wouldn't this be achievable without frame cutting by using an ls1 oil pan, ls intake manifold and holley swap engine mounts?
Possibly, there's about 100 ways to do this swap. I used the stock 5.3 truck parts to save money. LS1 pan is around $200, LS1 intake is $300-$400 with fuel rails, injectors, etc.. So this way saved me at least $500 for a pan and intake.
@@wilsworkshop i was asking in hopes you had an answer lol. ill hopefully be doing a 5.3/nv3500 swap in my 03 regular cab soon. i really dont want to cut up my frame. i dont have the talent or equipment to even do that
The Hummer H3 pan is supposed to work without notching, but I haven't used it so I can't say for sure.
@@wilsworkshop it works no notching need u dont want to cut the piece it weakens the chassis infrastructure save the $$ you won't regret it
DON'T cut the frame just spend the extra $$$
Can you use the stock 4L60 from the s10?
If it was a 4.3L it would bolt up to the LS block, but I don't know if the torque converter would work (bolt pattern and center hub nipple diameter might be differnt). If it was a 4 banger it wouldn't work for sure.
Can you use to 2.2 radiator?
You could use one, but you might need a different fan with a different shroud shape and a higher CFM. The 4.3 Radiator with Intrepid fans is a proven setup with the LS Swap and the cost is low. A new 4.3 radiator was only $60 including shipping.
Hello great video can you send me a diagram of how you did the power steering delete...
The truck has power steering, I didn't delete it.
@@wilsworkshop but the 5.3 has no power steering how you do that set up ,cus my car has no power steering and I want to do the same thing ...do you have a diagram ..
Gotchya, I just had it off the engine for running on the test stand, but installed the pump later. I made the bracket to do what you're seeing, but I don't have any diagrams for it. ICT Billet has a couple bracket options that will delete the power steering pump on the engine.
@@wilsworkshop okay thank you, for the info,, I'll look em up .
Were did you get that diff
I have some other videos showing the diff swap in detail.
Are u selling the 2.2
Nah, it's being experimented on.
You realize that 225 is the tread width in mm, right? At a 70 % aspect ratio for both the 225 should be approximately 7.5mm taller on the sidewall. It would be a much more drastic change to go to a 225/75/15 or just go to a less antiquated size like 18" or at least 17" and you could actually find tires for it and it'd open up your options for tire size. The 16 inch wheels on the zq8 suspension trucks are relatively easy to find..
Yep, 16", 17", or 18" are all good choices.
@@wilsworkshop I owe you an apology. Sometimes I leave comments that I go back and read and it's quite clear that I was suffering from one of my many shortcomings but to come on your channel and comment on something that you probably know more about than me was an azzhole move and I appreciate you having the class to reply with such tact as you did! I'm sure you're a fine fella and I wish you nothing but the best!
It's no problem, I stuck with 15" mostly to keep the budget down. I'm a fan of the 17" 5-spoke type aluminum rims, but they would add around $700-$900 for the rims and tires. It's not a ton of money, but my self imposed goal of sub-$3000 for the total build means some sacrifice. Plus the 15's worked with the brake upgrades, so it was kinda cool to keep them for a total sleeper look. It's still pretty easy to find 15" tires, I paid around $200 for a set of 4 for this.
No offense but cutting that section for your ac looks dangerous again is your truck u can do water ever u want with it but I would save the money and pay a little extra for the ac brackets for your swap
Compared to my other videos, notching and boxing a non-structural part of the frame is pretty tame. A/C relocation brackets do make things easier, but I'm poor.
I wish people would stop calling the 5.3 and LS. Those truck motors were not LS. Very close but not the same thing. Cool build regardless though.
I'm well aware they're LM7's, L59's, LH6's, etc.. But calling it a LS swap is the common use term and covers the whole family of motors. Meow if I was telling someone it was a LS1 and not a LM7, then you might have a point.
If I add yellow paint to red paint and call it orange I guess I'd be wrong too
Did you take off power steering
Dumb question if you just replace the oil pan you don't have to notch correct? Since you notched it is it easier to pull oil pan off without pulling motor? If the gasket fails later
It depends on the pan and more importantly the engine placement. A pan was around $350 and with how low I wanted the engine to clear a stock hood I would have likely had to notch anyways. So a day of cutting and welding for the stock pan to fit was easier and cheaper.
Clearance from pan bottom to frame top was about 1/4", so no chance of pulling the pan with the engine bolted in even with the notch.
@@wilsworkshop nice work man. Keep up the good work
I don't even have an s10, but this, as with ur others, are very simple stupid instructions. Makes me want to buy an s10 just to do one
They're pretty easy to modify, good ground clearance, basic RWD chassis, tons of proven mods, cheap parts, cheap vehicle to purchase. Just about the perfect low buck "hot rod".
Great vid. I’ve got a 02 s10 I’m doing. Jaytingle@jtcustoms. I’ve got a few vids.
Thanks, i'll check it out.
I am trying to buy an 8.8 for mine, are you selling that one with 4.10 gears?
They aren't too bad to pull from the junkyard, and can be used "un-cut" with some re drilled axle shafts for use with S10 rim bolt pattern.
@@wilsworkshop
Thanks, really appreciate it 👍🏼
Trailblazer A/C pulley is a little smaller diameter