Don't skewer the final result by introducing another product into the engine. Save the Seafoam for another equally dirty engine and compare the two against each other. In the mean time, carry on exactly as it is and do another photo comparison at 2K and then 3K miles. Also, I think there is a several dollar difference between Seafoam and MMO. I think you made the right choice to start with MMO and you're getting excellent results for the least amount of money spent.
@@1982MCI but you only use a few ounces instead of a quart of mmo. I’ve seen people run the numbers with those and Lucas to see the actual cost. I do like both
This is the way to do it to obtain a realistic result. As said above DO NOT CHANGE THE CONDITIONS (VARIABLES) of your study. Doing so can just result in GIGO.
Stick with Marvel Mystery Oil. It would be unrealistic to expect it to clean up a 20 year old engine in only 880 miles. As I had posted previously, you want it to clean gradually, not have the crud come off in chunks all at once, clogging up the filter and other stuff. It's working, let it do it's thing for a couple of oil changes.
Me being a long master tech has to put my 2 cents in. I am absolutely amazed by Pennzoil. In my experience it's better than amzoil. By far! No varnish. No gunk. But you gotta remember that no oil or additive is not going to fix damage already done.
Do you remember the old school Pennzoil, non detergent? We called the internal results Pennzoil orange. Pennzoil had an ad campaign years ago where they touted their new detergent package. We laughed, "welcome to the party, guys!" Modern Pennzoil looks great.
Pennzoil is good oil however personally in my 2013 jkus with the 3.6l pentastar it burns off way too quick, 1.5 qts in less than 2k miles. Had much better luck with Valvoline and same results in terms of detergent power and keeping crud from building up.
Where i live is next town. Over from bradford p.a. which is where pennzoil had an oil refinery. These days its producing the brad penn oil. Also not far, few hours south is oil city p.a. where pennzoil quaker state and wolfs head oils all had their national headquaters. Everyone in this area is real into what oil they use. This is also same area where the first oil well was drilled in history. Oil springs territory. Here pennzoil is still king. Most everyone has stuck with that brand. I have noticed as a brand it does keep the sludge down. Quaker state has been looked at as junk here for years. And wolfs head is all but unknown. None of these companies are here any more. Brad penn is made here using local "pennsylvania crude" but still nobody even sells it or uses it here. I hears race car guys like it. Not sure what the hype for them is. Anyways.... Far as my opinion goes being 3rd gen mechanic from the original oil boom region. You cant go wrong with pennzoil, valvoline or mobil. Stay away from quaker state and castrol. Those 2 both sludge up. Havoline isnt too bad. And true gold is schaffers!
wow really bought a slant six dart from the original owner who used nothing but Pennzoil pulled the valve cover and made a sludge ball the size of a softball
agree, change the oil(regular synthetic) & filter, again. Add another qt of MMO. I'd be tempted to take that Rt. valve cover and run it thru your parts washer, to knock off some of that baked on crud. That would give MMO a fighting chance. Then you could compare to the untouched Lt v. cover.
The filter says it all. It is working. Keep with it and change the filter every 1k till next oil change. Love this series you are doing. Real world testing & results.
I agree with Scott . 10w-30 and another round of Marvel Mystery Oil along with a new premium filter. Very happy with the result so far. There were a lot of contaminants in the filter. Go for broke Boss, it's working. Thank you for letting us indulge in your adventure and allowing us to have some input.
You could run it again...In the old days we poured a Q of kerosene in just before an oil change and didn't touch the throttle just let it idle for about 15-minutes, amazing to see what came out.
Be mindful of how dirty the eng. is before you do this. I've seen more than one pump pick-up screen pack up and cause a pump/drive failure because the eng. was simply too far sludged.
With that visible difference at 800 miles, I'd do the same thing (4qts. fresh oil and another qt. MMO) and let this service run for 1250-1500 miles. As you've stated and shown, the MMO is obviously doing good things for your engine.
Makes me want to go ahead with the oil change in my 4.7. That engine makes yours look clean inside. Already noticed my cold start rattle of a morning is much shorter, the oil delivery has improved, not diminished, from the MMO. Very impressed. Made a believer out of me.
@@FordBossMe I definitely will. We made it to about 850 miles and I checked oil. Consumption is barely any at this point, vast improvement from a quart every 750 miles. Dipstick is shiny clean. Was one small piece of sludge on top the stick that had broken off, so I'm thinking we may cut the program short and change and go back with another quart of MMO for the next 3K miles.
Please stick with the MMO for at least one more run, and I would run it it with the correct grade synthetic oil from Costco, their Kirkland brand, it is very inexpensive and works great, I saw a video from Project Farm and he sent it in for testing after he put it through his oil tests and it worked very well and had a great additive package in it.
As an additional comment, put your valve covers through the parts washer to get that crud out, there is no reason to put that gunk back into the oil in your engine.
Run the MMO, It is working. I'd use cheap oil and keep the change intervals close. With seafoam I add it 100 miles before the change and the color of the oil would rapidly get darker in that 100 miles. I have taken an engine that would foul the oil in 200 miles, to one that keeps oil clean for 3000k miles, by doing 4-5 changes with change intervals of 100-200 miles running seafoam at 1-2 oz per quart concentration.
@Bones McGillicuddy that motor has 170k miles on it, and came sludged up. I think oil staying "like new" until around 3k is as good as it gets for most engines.
I'm no mechanic, but I would do a flush of some kind/repeat what you just did. Getting the crap out would be my ultimate goal, it's definitely knocking the gunk loose.
I will say that MMO is some awesome stuff. Back in 1995 I bought a brand new Honda del Sol. Every oil change, I would add a half to sometimes a whole quart of MMO. At 150K miles, the engine looked like it did when I bought it. There were no traces of Varnish what so ever under the valve cover. I just wish we had smart phones back then to snap photos. I've been hesitant to do this on my cars today due to the newer oils and such.
You might could put a quart of thicker oil, the specified amount of MMO on the bottle, and the rest the specified oil for your vehicle, to make up for the possible thinning of the oil due to MMO.
That's a incredible difference. I personally mix Seafoam and marvel mystery oil together the last 350-450 miles before a oil change. My truck has always had Mobile One synthetic 5w30 with ac delco filters and Lucas Oil Stabilizer. 2003 Chevrolet Silverado Texas Edition 5.3 two wheel drive with 120,000 original miles. I assume the inside is very clean. I'm due for a oil change so I will put the bore scope camera inside the valve cover and take a look.
Can't wait to see what this MMO has done. Is it just ATF? Don't confound the experiment: put in MMO again to give it a chance to do its thing. If you try something else, you won't know which product did the real job.
MMO is not ATF. It is mineral oil and a few other things. These engines have Viton valve guide seals (or at least mine does) and the ATF would ruin them.
@@shoveI wintergreen oil also is used to clean and soften rubber. I used to use a product called rubber renew (wintergreen oil) to service the belts on older slot machine bill acceptors. Worked pretty good. stands to reason it would help old hardened rubber seals and such. Maybe that explains the dodge not burning as much oil now.
After 100K miles (105k to be exact) l opened up my engine on top (valve covers) and oil pan. The engine and trans. a Ford 300 straight 6 cyl was going into an older truck. I was amazed , stunned is more like it, my engine was so clean l just couldn't believe what l was seeing. I changed the oil and filter about every 7K mis. and added 1 qt. Marvel Mystery oil. I also added 6 oz. to fuel. My fuel tank holds 18 gals. I started this in the 70s, l noticed my engine ran smoother, got better mpg. and my used oil was very dirty at first but as time went on the used oil started to look cleaner. That was my reason to pop the covers and pan, l had heard alot good things about MMO but had never seen end results. MMO really works.
Every 30k, I drop the oil, fill with ATF, let idle for 10 min, drop that, and filter. Replace the oil, and filter. 10 minutes, and that stuff comes out black. Even if the oil was relatively clean looking. And I never go beyond 3 to 4k for an oil change. ATF is my go to for an engine "flush".
My neighbor substitutes 1 quart ATF for motor oil in his mud bogging truck. There is an enormous amount of detergents in the ATF that helps keeps the engine clean.
As for running it, I wouldn't. An oil guy told me it doesn't have "sheer strength". Which, im assuming has something to do with its wear protection. As for seals. Ive never had a problem. I think that's more for different transmissions. Those are valves and seals that actuate by pressure. Hardening would alter the pressure required. Nothing like that, that I can think of, in the combustion engine.
I've been using Marvel for over 40 years. Excellent product. Don't forget to add it to your fuel at every fill up - it cleans as well as lubricates the fuel pump and injectors. I've got a PT Cruiser with 160K+ on it and have yet to replace the pump...
The moving parts look like their waaaay cleaner. Id go with another marvel mystery oil round. This proves if you keep using it, you will have a clean motor eventually and quite rapidly. I'd go another round with marvel mystery oil just because of this first result and because it is an oil, unlike some other additives. Also it's been around for years, and sworn upon by alot of people. Never heard a bad MMO story tbh
So after I replaced the dryer, condenser, orifice tube and seals and a thorough vacuum the 2006 Ford F250's A/C ran great but as I test drove the vehicle the A/C shut off again so this time I parked the truck jumped out with my step stool a long screwdriver and my plastic hammer and tapped on the compressor coil and the compressor came back to life. I originally wanted to replace the entire system but two shops had told him the compressor was good. Well the orifice tube was 80% plugged up and there were signs of contamination. I told him what to expect. Well you try and do your best but sometimes people don't listen. Take Care everybody and Thank you Boss Man for another video.
I have a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder with 300000 miles on it. It's been feed MMO every tank of fuel, and gets also gets MMO every 3rd oil change. the engine is still strong and looks great on the inside. Add it to the fuel to help clean the valves.
I'd recommend BG EPR since I know it works, but I think it would be a soiled experiment because MMO has been in there already and some will continue to remain in there. I'm for sticking with MMO until it's clean.
I think you should change the oil filter midway between the oil changes, what ever interval you decide. That dinky filter media looked, nasty, like it was plugged up and that the oil filter was being bypassed. Check the filters to see how well the MMO is working. From what I saw it looked like it was doing its job.
OMG Dude, that load of Mystery has done its work, dump that dirty crappy oil, and fill it with anything and a quality filter. I'd fill it with fresh regular oil and another dose of Mystery or some other cleaner if you want, but get that old crap out of there! Cheerz!!
I think it might be a good idea to drop the oil pan when your done doing all your testing. Good chance of junk in there. If you happen to do that I would love to see how it looks.
I was going to comment. Then I saw the newest video on the right side of my screen. Good choice. You've got to let this stuff get in there and do it's magic. It has taken that engine years and years to build up all of that gunk. It will not take MMO 1 week to remove it.
I've ran Sea foam through engines with a lot of carbon build up, run about 8 ok of Sea foam for a couple of hours of light driving before changing the oil. It does a good job of cleaning the carbon build up and quieting the lifters.
Hey brother , love the channel! I was wondering if there is some way you can enable sub titles (closed caption)? I'm hard of hearing (wear hearing aids) and the sub titles really help me out sometimes when I'm watching from my phone! Have a blessed day!
@@jonmccormick8683 that's why I said sometimes. I'm obviously aware of what I need to hear things properly. Unfortunately batteries die, headphones get lost and during those times, CC helps. That's why I asked politely. Not to get an education in hearing devices, I pay doctors for that. Thanks
MMO seems like some good stuff. Any future used vehicle I get im running some through it. Prolly with seafoam injector cleaner which I've personally had good results from.
I had a 2003 ram 1500 with 4.7 magnum 290000 miles ran like a champ motor was super clean inside ran marvel mystery oil religiously been using it since it was sold in oil type cans point blank period it works awesome the longer you run it the more it cleans.
I did that to a small block Chevy along time ago, it plugged the oil filter, bypassed it fed very dirty oil to all the main and rod bearings plus cam bearings took the engine out ruined it, NEVER did that again! Had to replace engine. Hard lesson learned!
I am interested in what another dose will do. From the filter element, I would suspect it was in bypass mode Thanks Rich keep up the good work. You are educating some of us old guys. The old school guy.
With what was on the filter, I definitely wouldn't want to keep going past 1k miles until it's a little cleaner. That thing was pretty well saturated with garbage.
Im willing to bet most of the MMO evaporated after 200 mi. That finger at the end said it all! Cheap oil and a new filter! Great content! Edit: we need to talk about 46re's next.
Take a razor knife to the filter pleats and remove about 5 pleats. Wrap them in a shop rag and squeeze it in a vice to remove the oil. Open it up fully and you will see everything clearly in the filter.
Yes stick with the Mystery oil.. I have used that in my vehicles since I started driving and that was back in 1965. I add it to fuel and oil both. All my vehicles have run forever so far. I have always stuck with 3,000 mile service intervals on all my cars. Never, never run what the manufacturers suggest. If you do , then plan on a newer vehicle sooner than need be. Or rebuild earlier than you normally would have to do. Now I rebuild lots of automatic transmissions. There is no magic oil for those. Use the correct grade ATF and service the tranny every 12,000 and you will generally have a good transmission for years to come. Just my thoughts.
I’ve been adding MMO to oil approx 500 miles before oil changes. 240k miles and still running strong. Yeah I believe in the stuff. Stick with MMO. BTW I use off the shelf 5w30,Wix filter and change at 3k intervals.
I learned the hard way with MMOil , it works well but if used in every oil change for years (95 Monte Carlo) it will cause massive leaks because of what it did to the gaskets ,especially the oil pan gasket . I still use it sparingly but it mostly goes in my gas tank .still own it and it still gets 32 mpg .
I would say keep on with the Marvel Mystery, my debate would be over using conventional oil vs a typical off the shelf synthetic and the reason for that is cost vs benefit as one look at that filter says do another short oil and filter change rather then leaving it run out a full 3000 miles. I can see where its easy to get into trouble if dumping in a cleaner like that and then going way too long on an oil change and clogging the filter ( risk of non filtered oil circulating once the filter is clogged ) and also over contaminating the oil even if the filter still is flowing. Go another 1000 miles and repeat the valve cover/oil filter examination and take a read on it then.
Stay w the marvel for an oil change so we can see what it will do cause none of us are gonna put it in for just 880 miles thanks for all the stuff your doing to help us out
Get that oil out of the engine....it appears to have dissolved carbon deposits....perhaps freed oil passages....get that dirty oil out before it scores bearings.....new oil now with another mmo treat ment....keep doing it until all carbon is removed....thanks
Good point....the debris circulates....eventually it makes its way to the filter....I just don't trust the filter is 100 percent effective....did you ever remove an oil pan and find metal and brittle carbon deposits that never made it to the filter?....I am sure you have....and sometimes an oil change will not carry those deposits out....if you can drop the oil pan....do that as well....get that debris out....
I put some into my gas JD 445 with 2800 hours on it and fired it up let it warm for about 5 minutes while I straightened up my shed and was surprised to hear it smoothed out. So I put some into the oil and put about 15 hours on it before oil change. She starts alot easier now and has better power. Happy so far.
In my opinion \ experience anything that cleans fast will be harsh and unless I knew what the inside looked like I would take a gradual approach. The last thing you want is an oil thinner that washes off chunks of gunk and plugs the pick up screen. MMO is obviously working so run it again but lave it in longer. Replace the filter every 1000-1500 miles or whenever you think it's dirty. It may take 3-4 changes to get great results. It did on my '74 BB Chevy and went with a slow cleaning and changed the oil and filter every 1500 miles until I saw an improvement, then spaced the OCI's to 2,000 and the 2,500. I used MMO and Shell Rotella 15-40 but that was me. In your situation I'd use any HD oil as long as the viscosity matched the mfr's recommendations. That's just my suggestion. Lots of others have offered good advice and you certainly have a feel for what it needs. I'm sure you will get there.
Do Mystery Oil some more! Keep going until it doesn't clean any more. See how long the product takes to do all the work. We can tell it did a lot already. BTW seafoam doesn't work nearly as good.
I always use the Walmart high mileage full synthetic oil in my Kia I have 351,000 mi right now and the car is never broke down and never had any problems doesn't burn or leak any oil but I'm thinking about running some MMO through it on the next oil change just to clean it out after seeing this video!
@@demolitionman5003 On newer cars and if you are running synthetic oil, I suggest you only use 16 oz (half of the most popular 32 oz bottle size) of the MMO and that should be added about 300 miles before you are due to change your oil. The 32 oz bottle goes for $3.88 at Walmart and since you will only need to use half a bottle before your oil change that ends up being $1.94 to keep your engine clean inside. Maybe the best bargain around when it comes to taking care of your engine! lf you do this same thing before every oil change (just 16 oz not the full bottle) your engine will stay clean inside indefinitely. Both MMO and Supertech full synthetic are two out of the 3 products I use which have resulted in dramatic increase in MPG's as well as silky smooth, quiet running engines. When I recently removed the valve covers to change out the gasket set everything was clean as a whistle. My neighbor who was with me at the time didn't believe it when he saw it, but he was right there when the valve cover came off. The next day he went out to get MMO and Supertech full synthetic as well as the 3rd product in my trio and swapped out his old motor oil with the same concoction I'm using.
For the looks I would stick to MMO at 25% ratio instead of 20 and use regular sinthetic oil.. you can also add a couple oz of zinc additives.. MMO will keep it's thing on the long run and also will be less harmful to the seals and gaskets brother
![HIWWHEE | OHM [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/OJJLtTLqLag/mqdefault.jpg)
Stick with the MArvel Mystery Oil until there's nothing left to learn from it.
Agreed.
Pensoil ultra and another bottle of mmo
Agreed.....
Agreed
Your putting a lot a miles on the truck. Soon you"ll need a new-used one so try a new product on a new-use truck.
Like Adam said "Stick with the MArvel Mystery Oil until there's nothing left to learn from it."
Don't skewer the final result by introducing another product into the engine. Save the Seafoam for another equally dirty engine and compare the two against each other. In the mean time, carry on exactly as it is and do another photo comparison at 2K and then 3K miles. Also, I think there is a several dollar difference between Seafoam and MMO. I think you made the right choice to start with MMO and you're getting excellent results for the least amount of money spent.
You are correct Eddie, seafoam is triple the cost of Marvel
I've never had any luck with seafoam.
@@scottyellis3442 me either. I use MMO religiously.
@@1982MCI but you only use a few ounces instead of a quart of mmo. I’ve seen people run the numbers with those and Lucas to see the actual cost. I do like both
I wouldn't run any additive with amsoil, I'd save the amsoil for the final oil change
Save the expensive Amsoil
Or skip the AMS oil altogether.
Super tech is the best oil cent for cent
Amsoil is overrated they do no reaserch mobile one is the one it is an olifin based oil
@@stephenhusak6098 exactly my thoughts.
My dad was an aircraft master tech. He absolutely loved MMO for both oil and fuel.
Classic scientific test: DO NOT ADD VARIABLES. Run the test until the results are in. Then change another variable and see what that change does.
This is the way to do it to obtain a realistic result. As said above DO NOT CHANGE THE CONDITIONS (VARIABLES) of your study. Doing so can just result in GIGO.
Stick with Marvel Mystery Oil. It would be unrealistic to expect it to clean up a 20 year old engine in only 880 miles. As I had posted previously, you want it to clean gradually, not have the crud come off in chunks all at once, clogging up the filter and other stuff. It's working, let it do it's thing for a couple of oil changes.
Saxmusicmail good advice.
Amazes me no engine I ever had ford chev Buick Mazda Pontiac ever had sludge it comes from really poor maintenance and neglect
My dad taught me about Marvel Mystery Oil when I was 18 years old and the stuff is amazing
Definitely made a difference. I can see that if someone uses MMO they may need to change filters for often for a while.
I’d just keep going with the MMO. It seems to be doing a great job.
Just buy cheap synthetic, mmo and two NEW oil filters. Change only filters after 1000 miles and open them up to see how much crap is trapped.
I like that idea
There isn't a point to using synthetic oil for a short interval with an engine flush. I would just run cheap conventional oil and then change it out.
Me being a long master tech has to put my 2 cents in. I am absolutely amazed by Pennzoil. In my experience it's better than amzoil. By far! No varnish. No gunk. But you gotta remember that no oil or additive is not going to fix damage already done.
Do you remember the old school Pennzoil, non detergent? We called the internal results Pennzoil orange.
Pennzoil had an ad campaign years ago where they touted their new detergent package. We laughed, "welcome to the party, guys!"
Modern Pennzoil looks great.
Pennzoil is good oil however personally in my 2013 jkus with the 3.6l pentastar it burns off way too quick, 1.5 qts in less than 2k miles. Had much better luck with Valvoline and same results in terms of detergent power and keeping crud from building up.
Where i live is next town. Over from bradford p.a. which is where pennzoil had an oil refinery. These days its producing the brad penn oil. Also not far, few hours south is oil city p.a. where pennzoil quaker state and wolfs head oils all had their national headquaters. Everyone in this area is real into what oil they use. This is also same area where the first oil well was drilled in history. Oil springs territory. Here pennzoil is still king. Most everyone has stuck with that brand. I have noticed as a brand it does keep the sludge down. Quaker state has been looked at as junk here for years. And wolfs head is all but unknown. None of these companies are here any more. Brad penn is made here using local "pennsylvania crude" but still nobody even sells it or uses it here. I hears race car guys like it. Not sure what the hype for them is. Anyways.... Far as my opinion goes being 3rd gen mechanic from the original oil boom region. You cant go wrong with pennzoil, valvoline or mobil. Stay away from quaker state and castrol. Those 2 both sludge up. Havoline isnt too bad. And true gold is schaffers!
wow really bought a slant six dart from the original owner who used nothing but Pennzoil pulled the valve cover and made a sludge ball the size of a softball
@@ronprice7495 Can you still.get Shaffer's ?
That pleat from the oil filter proves everything more mmo for 2-3k miles
Wish he had used a new filter for the test, though. Want to see how dirty a new filter gets with the MMO.
agree, change the oil(regular synthetic) & filter, again. Add another qt of MMO. I'd be tempted to take that Rt. valve cover and run it thru your parts washer, to knock off some of that baked on crud. That would give MMO a fighting chance. Then you could compare to the untouched Lt v. cover.
The filter says it all. It is working. Keep with it and change the filter every 1k till next oil change. Love this series you are doing. Real world testing & results.
I think he should change it sooner because that was only 800 miles
I agree with Scott . 10w-30 and another round of Marvel Mystery Oil along with a new premium filter. Very happy with the result so far. There were a lot of contaminants in the filter. Go for broke Boss, it's working. Thank you for letting us indulge in your adventure and allowing us to have some input.
Looks like the oil and filter were fully saturated and couldn’t hold any more contaminates. MMO is doing its thing..
You could run it again...In the old days we poured a Q of kerosene in just before an oil change and didn't touch the throttle just let it idle for about 15-minutes, amazing to see what came out.
Ford use to recommend flushing their engines with straight kerosene. Of course this was damn near 100 years ago
Yes or diesel fuel as a cleaner and do what you did with the kerosene
Be mindful of how dirty the eng. is before you do this. I've seen more than one pump pick-up screen pack up and cause a pump/drive failure because the eng. was simply too far sludged.
@@davef.2811 Very true. I hope he sees your comment/advice
If you gonna use cheap harsh chemicals use diesel atleast diesel has some lubricant properties to it unlike kerosene.
Keep going with the Marvel, keep every thing else the same. This is amazing, my grandpa swore by Mystery oil, looks like you are proving him right.
With that visible difference at 800 miles, I'd do the same thing (4qts. fresh oil and another qt. MMO) and let this service run for 1250-1500 miles. As you've stated and shown, the MMO is obviously doing good things for your engine.
Mmo and synthetic. Save the amsoil. The results are crazy good. That filter is nuts. . Look at that crap. I believe!
Yes that filter is the real hero here. My filters go 15k miles and don’t look half that dirty. It filtered like a champ 😂
Stay the course. It’s doing it’s job.
opened youtube looking just for this...been waiting days
Makes me want to go ahead with the oil change in my 4.7. That engine makes yours look clean inside. Already noticed my cold start rattle of a morning is much shorter, the oil delivery has improved, not diminished, from the MMO. Very impressed. Made a believer out of me.
Keep me updated please
@@FordBossMe I definitely will. We made it to about 850 miles and I checked oil. Consumption is barely any at this point, vast improvement from a quart every 750 miles. Dipstick is shiny clean. Was one small piece of sludge on top the stick that had broken off, so I'm thinking we may cut the program short and change and go back with another quart of MMO for the next 3K miles.
Run it again is doing a really good job cleaning all the build deposits, great video
Please stick with the MMO for at least one more run, and I would run it it with the correct grade synthetic oil from Costco, their Kirkland brand, it is very inexpensive and works great, I saw a video from Project Farm and he sent it in for testing after he put it through his oil tests and it worked very well and had a great additive package in it.
As an additional comment, put your valve covers through the parts washer to get that crud out, there is no reason to put that gunk back into the oil in your engine.
Run the MMO, It is working. I'd use cheap oil and keep the change intervals close. With seafoam I add it 100 miles before the change and the color of the oil would rapidly get darker in that 100 miles. I have taken an engine that would foul the oil in 200 miles, to one that keeps oil clean for 3000k miles, by doing 4-5 changes with change intervals of 100-200 miles running seafoam at 1-2 oz per quart concentration.
@Bones McGillicuddy that motor has 170k miles on it, and came sludged up. I think oil staying "like new" until around 3k is as good as it gets for most engines.
I'm no mechanic, but I would do a flush of some kind/repeat what you just did. Getting the crap out would be my ultimate goal, it's definitely knocking the gunk loose.
I will say that MMO is some awesome stuff. Back in 1995 I bought a brand new Honda del Sol. Every oil change, I would add a half to sometimes a whole quart of MMO. At 150K miles, the engine looked like it did when I bought it. There were no traces of Varnish what so ever under the valve cover. I just wish we had smart phones back then to snap photos. I've been hesitant to do this on my cars today due to the newer oils and such.
You might could put a quart of thicker oil, the specified amount of MMO on the bottle, and the rest the specified oil for your vehicle, to make up for the possible thinning of the oil due to MMO.
That's a incredible difference. I personally mix Seafoam and marvel mystery oil together the last 350-450 miles before a oil change. My truck has always had Mobile One synthetic 5w30 with ac delco filters and Lucas Oil Stabilizer.
2003 Chevrolet Silverado Texas Edition 5.3 two wheel drive with 120,000 original miles. I assume the inside is very clean. I'm due for a oil change so I will put the bore scope camera inside the valve cover and take a look.
Can't wait to see what this MMO has done. Is it just ATF? Don't confound the experiment: put in MMO again to give it a chance to do its thing. If you try something else, you won't know which product did the real job.
MMO is not ATF. It is mineral oil and a few other things. These engines have Viton valve guide seals (or at least mine does) and the ATF would ruin them.
@@bestbrother97 ATF ruins Viton? I’ve never heard that before. Interesting.
Nope.
@@shoveI wintergreen oil also is used to clean and soften rubber. I used to use a product called rubber renew (wintergreen oil) to service the belts on older slot machine bill acceptors. Worked pretty good. stands to reason it would help old hardened rubber seals and such. Maybe that explains the dodge not burning as much oil now.
@@tombryant4518 Yeah I was thinking the same thing....
pull the pan. if is breaking lose you may end up with a clogged pickup screen.
we would also be able to see the crank and lot more internal stuff too
After 100K miles (105k to be exact) l opened up my engine on top (valve covers) and oil pan. The engine and trans. a Ford 300 straight 6 cyl was going into an older truck. I was amazed , stunned is more like it, my engine was so clean l just couldn't believe what l was seeing. I changed the oil and filter about every 7K mis. and added 1 qt. Marvel Mystery oil. I also added 6 oz. to fuel. My fuel tank holds 18 gals. I started this in the 70s, l noticed my engine ran smoother, got better mpg. and my used oil was very dirty at first but as time went on the used oil started to look cleaner. That was my reason to pop the covers and pan, l had heard alot good things about MMO but had never seen end results. MMO really works.
had a client 30 years ago ran 1quart of atf with 3 quarts 10w30, engine always spotless
Every 30k, I drop the oil, fill with ATF, let idle for 10 min, drop that, and filter. Replace the oil, and filter. 10 minutes, and that stuff comes out black. Even if the oil was relatively clean looking. And I never go beyond 3 to 4k for an oil change. ATF is my go to for an engine "flush".
My neighbor substitutes 1 quart ATF for motor oil in his mud bogging truck. There is an enormous amount of detergents in the ATF that helps keeps the engine clean.
wont atf ruin the rubber seals and gaskets?
As for running it, I wouldn't. An oil guy told me it doesn't have "sheer strength". Which, im assuming has something to do with its wear protection.
As for seals. Ive never had a problem. I think that's more for different transmissions. Those are valves and seals that actuate by pressure. Hardening would alter the pressure required. Nothing like that, that I can think of, in the combustion engine.
@@johnbessemer3777 ok no ''shear strength'' ok noted should try this on my 100 cc yamaha..thank you
Another round of 10 w 30 and marvel mystery oil.
I've been using Marvel for over 40 years. Excellent product. Don't forget to add it to your fuel at every fill up - it cleans as well as lubricates the fuel pump and injectors. I've got a PT Cruiser with 160K+ on it and have yet to replace the pump...
The moving parts look like their waaaay cleaner. Id go with another marvel mystery oil round. This proves if you keep using it, you will have a clean motor eventually and quite rapidly. I'd go another round with marvel mystery oil just because of this first result and because it is an oil, unlike some other additives. Also it's been around for years, and sworn upon by alot of people. Never heard a bad MMO story tbh
So after I replaced the dryer, condenser, orifice tube and seals and a thorough vacuum the 2006 Ford F250's A/C ran great but as I test drove the vehicle the A/C shut off again so this time I parked the truck jumped out with my step stool a long screwdriver and my plastic hammer and tapped on the compressor coil and the compressor came back to life. I originally wanted to replace the entire system but two shops had told him the compressor was good. Well the orifice tube was 80% plugged up and there were signs of contamination. I told him what to expect. Well you try and do your best but sometimes people don't listen. Take Care everybody and Thank you Boss Man for another video.
Keep running it, MMO has been around longer than most for a reason.
You Sir. Have a awesome channel. Thank you for dummy -fiy thing for us and showing us step by step on how to do it .
I just Realized, The Pick Up Screen might be getting CLOGGED! 😮 Your Oil Pressure will keep slowly Dropping untill it's too late
I have a 2000 Nissan Pathfinder with 300000 miles on it. It's been feed MMO every tank of fuel, and gets also gets MMO every 3rd oil change. the engine is still strong and looks great on the inside. Add it to the fuel to help clean the valves.
I'd recommend BG EPR since I know it works, but I think it would be a soiled experiment because MMO has been in there already and some will continue to remain in there. I'm for sticking with MMO until it's clean.
Freed the rings just like WYNN ENGINE TUNE UP. Keep going.
Keep running MMO and use a normal full synthetic
Agree
Agree.
I think you should change the oil filter midway between the oil changes, what ever interval you decide. That dinky filter media looked, nasty, like it was plugged up and that the oil filter was being bypassed. Check the filters to see how well the MMO is working. From what I saw it looked like it was doing its job.
Use Pennzoil UP and do MMO again. Would be cool to see if a different base oil with MMO improves things even more.
@@jamesg8246 I wish it was easier to find the PUP in the stores. Walmart only has the PP and I was using the ultra platinum for my 2017 Kia Sedona.
@@matthewpowell1796 I found ultra platinum on Amazon for the same price of pure platinum in Walmart.
OMG Dude, that load of Mystery has done its work, dump that dirty crappy oil, and fill it with anything and a quality filter. I'd fill it with fresh regular oil and another dose of Mystery or some other cleaner if you want, but get that old crap out of there!
Cheerz!!
I think it might be a good idea to drop the oil pan when your done doing all your testing. Good chance of junk in there. If you happen to do that I would love to see how it looks.
I was going to comment. Then I saw the newest video on the right side of my screen. Good choice. You've got to let this stuff get in there and do it's magic. It has taken that engine years and years to build up all of that gunk. It will not take MMO 1 week to remove it.
Ole incubus. Always good music playing in the background.
I've ran Sea foam through engines with a lot of carbon build up, run about 8 ok of Sea foam for a couple of hours of light driving before changing the oil. It does a good job of cleaning the carbon build up and quieting the lifters.
Mmo I like much better
I would use it again to see if the sediment is breaking up stuff out of the motor or a byproduct of the MMO.
Thank you for being the only entertaining thing I watch after a horrible day in the corporate world. Also agree with what Adam says below.
Hey brother , love the channel! I was wondering if there is some way you can enable sub titles (closed caption)? I'm hard of hearing (wear hearing aids) and the sub titles really help me out sometimes when I'm watching from my phone!
Have a blessed day!
Use a speaker (powered or battery) that plugs into the headphone jack of your phone.
@@jonmccormick8683 that's why I said sometimes. I'm obviously aware of what I need to hear things properly. Unfortunately batteries die, headphones get lost and during those times, CC helps. That's why I asked politely. Not to get an education in hearing devices, I pay doctors for that. Thanks
Best thing about this channel is.. you say what you do and do what you say...
MMO seems like some good stuff. Any future used vehicle I get im running some through it. Prolly with seafoam injector cleaner which I've personally had good results from.
Simple and nice. I like your common sense approach to working on things.
Run the MMO again!! I use it myself and am really curious to see what its doing for sure inside my engine. 😁
I had a 2003 ram 1500 with 4.7 magnum 290000 miles ran like a champ motor was super clean inside ran marvel mystery oil religiously been using it since it was sold in oil type cans point blank period it works awesome the longer you run it the more it cleans.
Keep using your Pennzoil and MMO mix. Don’t waste the amsoil.
I did that to a small block Chevy along time ago, it plugged the oil filter, bypassed it fed very dirty oil to all the main and rod bearings plus cam bearings took the engine out ruined it, NEVER did that again! Had to replace engine. Hard lesson learned!
Yeah but I wouldn't do that there's a reason why I'm doing it the way that I'm doing it
I did just as your doing, how is your way any different than what I did ?
Use a diesel 10w30 with your MMO for the extra detergent effect. Save the Amsoil for later
I am interested in what another dose will do. From the filter element, I would suspect it was in bypass mode Thanks Rich keep up the good work. You are educating some of us old guys. The old school guy.
Wow. Just after 800 miles. Id say see it through. Drain whats in since its so dirty and put back in exactly what you put in and run it 3 grand
Thats a pretty clean looking engine. This marvel product seems to be working very well...keep up the good work sir👍
I'd like to see a full oil change interval with the MMO in there, looks promising so far.
With what was on the filter, I definitely wouldn't want to keep going past 1k miles until it's a little cleaner. That thing was pretty well saturated with garbage.
Im willing to bet most of the MMO evaporated after 200 mi. That finger at the end said it all! Cheap oil and a new filter! Great content!
Edit: we need to talk about 46re's next.
The MMO replaced an entire quart of oil, it was full on the dipstick when he pulled it in the other video: th-cam.com/video/cEKEKo3B7-Y/w-d-xo.html
@@GrandPrix46 ...yea, mineral oil never evaporates. I totally forgot 9th grade science. Thanks!
@@ascott6804 guess that's why the dipstick was just as full as when he filled the oil 650 miles prior. No problem!
MMO def helped, plus you said the engine ran great on it. "If it aint broke, don't fix it!" SeaFoam is great but why change at this point?
Take a razor knife to the filter pleats and remove about 5 pleats. Wrap them in a shop rag and squeeze it in a vice to remove the oil. Open it up fully and you will see everything clearly in the filter.
MMO looks like the way to go.
I would give it another 1000 miles and then give it a look ! This is a great test !
Yes stick with the Mystery oil.. I have used that in my vehicles since I started driving and that was back in 1965. I add it to fuel and oil both. All my vehicles have run forever so far. I have always stuck with 3,000 mile service intervals on all my cars. Never, never run what the manufacturers suggest. If you do , then plan on a newer vehicle sooner than need be. Or rebuild earlier than you normally would have to do. Now I rebuild lots of automatic transmissions. There is no magic oil for those. Use the correct grade ATF and service the tranny every 12,000 and you will generally have a good transmission for years to come. Just my thoughts.
I’ve been adding MMO to oil approx 500 miles before oil changes. 240k miles and still running strong. Yeah I believe in the stuff. Stick with MMO. BTW I use off the shelf 5w30,Wix filter and change at 3k intervals.
Only change one thing at a time for a true test. Stick with the MMO. It is time tested and really works.
I learned the hard way with MMOil , it works well but if used in every oil change for years (95 Monte Carlo) it will cause massive leaks because of what it did to the gaskets ,especially the oil pan gasket . I still use it sparingly but it mostly goes in my gas tank .still own it and it still gets 32 mpg .
run it again, 800 miles isn't really, since the oil is nasty, use cheap oil.
castrol gtx entered the chat..
@@fidelcatsro6948 LOL!
Keep running mmo in oil and gas. 👍 great video brother keep em coming.
I would say keep on with the Marvel Mystery, my debate would be over using conventional oil vs a typical off the shelf synthetic and the reason for that is cost vs benefit as one look at that filter says do another short oil and filter change rather then leaving it run out a full 3000 miles. I can see where its easy to get into trouble if dumping in a cleaner like that and then going way too long on an oil change and clogging the filter ( risk of non filtered oil circulating once the filter is clogged ) and also over contaminating the oil even if the filter still is flowing. Go another 1000 miles and repeat the valve cover/oil filter examination and take a read on it then.
It’s working. It does it’s work slowly. Not harsh like an engine flush. You have photographs and filter to see what it does. Why switch now?
Synthetic oil and MMO would be what I'd do. Save the amsoil for after to see if it stays clean after a few thousand miles on it
I hope you've continued with another application of MMO. It will be interesting to see the results at the next filter change.
Run cheap syn for 5k and change the filter every 1k. Once you've done that, pull the pan, clean it and the pickup.
Stay w the marvel for an oil change so we can see what it will do cause none of us are gonna put it in for just 880 miles thanks for all the stuff your doing to help us out
Get that oil out of the engine....it appears to have dissolved carbon deposits....perhaps freed oil passages....get that dirty oil out before it scores bearings.....new oil now with another mmo treat ment....keep doing it until all carbon is removed....thanks
the oil gets cleaned by the filter.
if the filter works, how would the bearings get ruined?
Good point....the debris circulates....eventually it makes its way to the filter....I just don't trust the filter is 100 percent effective....did you ever remove an oil pan and find metal and brittle carbon deposits that never made it to the filter?....I am sure you have....and sometimes an oil change will not carry those deposits out....if you can drop the oil pan....do that as well....get that debris out....
I put some into my gas JD 445 with 2800 hours on it and fired it up let it warm for about 5 minutes while I straightened up my shed and was surprised to hear it smoothed out.
So I put some into the oil and put about 15 hours on it before oil change. She starts alot easier now and has better power.
Happy so far.
Run Marvin mystery oil until everything is cleaned out and then put the Amsoil in with a new filter and Call it a day
the stuff works friend of mine took and replace a vavle cover gasket on a 4 banger and it was so clean you could eat off it...good stuff
Stick with MMO and change the filter every couple hundred miles!
Yes, leave the oil and change the filter every 500. Get the dirty stuff out and see what happens.
Ditto with the MMO and regular oil.
I would repeat the marvel mystery oil. Thats quite a bit cleaner after only 850mi
MMO is awesome! Keep going with MMO!!!
Just use regular oil not the amsoil with it
MMO works well over a long period. It's a gradual process. It's great stuff , been using it for decades.
I'd say use some cheaper oil and do a couple 1000 mile changes
In my opinion \ experience anything that cleans fast will be harsh and unless I knew what the inside looked like I would take a gradual approach. The last thing you want is an oil thinner that washes off chunks of gunk and plugs the pick up screen.
MMO is obviously working so run it again but lave it in longer. Replace the filter every 1000-1500 miles or whenever you think it's dirty. It may take 3-4 changes to get great results. It did on my '74 BB Chevy and went with a slow cleaning and changed the oil and filter every 1500 miles until I saw an improvement, then spaced the OCI's to 2,000 and the 2,500. I used MMO and Shell Rotella 15-40 but that was me. In your situation I'd use any HD oil as long as the viscosity matched the mfr's recommendations.
That's just my suggestion. Lots of others have offered good advice and you certainly have a feel for what it needs. I'm sure you will get there.
Do Mystery Oil some more! Keep going until it doesn't clean any more. See how long the product takes to do all the work. We can tell it did a lot already. BTW seafoam doesn't work nearly as good.
Old time mechanics used to use trans fluid (maybe one quart) to clean engine internals. They also used to wash hand with it vs using soap.
Use Walmart high mileage full synthetic with MMO - I’m using on my 08 explorer now
I always use the Walmart high mileage full synthetic oil in my Kia I have 351,000 mi right now and the car is never broke down and never had any problems doesn't burn or leak any oil but I'm thinking about running some MMO through it on the next oil change just to clean it out after seeing this video!
@@demolitionman5003 On newer cars and if you are running synthetic oil, I suggest you only use 16 oz (half of the most popular 32 oz bottle size) of the MMO and that should be added about 300 miles before you are due to change your oil. The 32 oz bottle goes for $3.88 at Walmart and since you will only need to use half a bottle before your oil change that ends up being $1.94 to keep your engine clean inside. Maybe the best bargain around when it comes to taking care of your engine! lf you do this same thing before every oil change (just 16 oz not the full bottle) your engine will stay clean inside indefinitely. Both MMO and Supertech full synthetic are two out of the 3 products I use which have resulted in dramatic increase in MPG's as well as silky smooth, quiet running engines. When I recently removed the valve covers to change out the gasket set everything was clean as a whistle. My neighbor who was with me at the time didn't believe it when he saw it, but he was right there when the valve cover came off. The next day he went out to get MMO and Supertech full synthetic as well as the 3rd product in my trio and swapped out his old motor oil with the same concoction I'm using.
@@JA-rn5qv thanks I definitely will do that. I'm hoping to get the car to go over 500 thousand miles. So far I have 352thousand on it.
For the looks I would stick to MMO at 25% ratio instead of 20 and use regular sinthetic oil.. you can also add a couple oz of zinc additives.. MMO will keep it's thing on the long run and also will be less harmful to the seals and gaskets brother
Stick with the MArvel Mystery Oil with a cheaper oil for 1000 miles then try that amisoil
Keep going with the MMO