Dave, I have watched all your three videos on engine oil burning reduction attempt. Even thought the results are negative, they all provide valuable information and guidance for future DIYers. Your work will save them tons of time, effort, and expenses. Appreciate you shared your results. Keep on the good work, and hope you will find a solution for your Corolla.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY wonder if adding a vent to valve cover would aide this issue , 94 Corolla 136,000 miles same deal no oil leak , spark plugs good except #2 oil leak thru top gasket 7afe engine burns same amount as yours close , gonna check cat next exhaust seems ok , thanks for share of info ,helps alot head and piston check is next.👍✌️💪🙏😔🖖
I am going to replace valve cover gasket again, timing chain o ring and and pcv valve just because they are easy enough and also known oil consumption problems and there is too much oil from over the years to tell if it's really fresh but I do get oil in spark tubes so valve cover gasket is bad, although new I must have messed something up doing it 😂
One thing that MMO really does help with is lifter noise. I've had several different engines with lifter tick, and it goes away almost instantly as soon as you pour this stuff in. blows my mind every time.
Lifter ticking caused by clog oil passage on those hydraulic lifter, those marvel oil may have heavy cleaning power till it can unclog the lifter immediately.
I know from first hand experience that Marvel Mystery oil is very good product. It does free up sticky valves and piston rings. I have also used it for oil thinning in my engine crankcase oil for deep sub-zero freezing weather. It works very well.
Yes especially when it is very cold. I personally if I was in minus weather for long periods of time would thin my engine oil with marvel 50/50. It works wonders with electric motors that have crankcases , the become unusable in very cold weather because the oil gets so thick the blow breakers, 100 percent marvel the run perfect even when very cold .
When I was a young man and just getting into working on cars an old timer told me to free an engine that was frozen from not being run in years, they would fill up the engine with diesel fuel as well as pouring it into each cylinder then let sit sit for several days.
Yep old guy here it can do wonders don’t drive it or put a load on the engine . You could add a pint of diesel to oil a little safer and let it idle then let it sit over night warm up next day let it sit warm up next day and change oil and filter
Australian experience. My brother has a Corolla - earlier model than yours - with more than 450,000 kiliometers (280,000 miles) - engine untouched and unmodified, and uses Castrol GTX High Mileage Engine Oil - 15W-50 for all his oil changes which he does at every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) with a filter change as well. The car uses a very tiny amount of oil in that time. Not enough used to require topping up. I think a specific high mileage oil for older engines - usually higher viscosity such as 15w40 or 15w50 or even 20w40 or 20w50 would be beneficial. We don't have any seriously cold weather in Adelaide, Australia so that might be a factor for you. Following your experiments with interest. Cheers from Adelaide, Australia
Would you recommend the thicker oil with a 2007 car with only 45 k miles? Im really asking if a car in this situation is considered a high miles car because of age.
Ditto. Have 2002 Toyota Corolla with 1ZZ-FE engine currently on 485000kms (300,000 miles). Had since new and it’s been serviced with oil change every 8000-10,000kms. No engine work has been done apart from air filters, plugs changed 3x and oil filter replaced when oil changed. It’s interesting as most experts say the motor is a throw away after 200,000kms and cant be rebuilt. Pulls like a train and burns little oil. I run any reputable brand 15-40W or 20-50W. The engine uses 500ml or less oil every 5000-8000kms. 50 litre fuel tank and I get 850-900kms to a tank of 91 octane petrol. Brilliant car overall.
Toyota had a few years where they had oil burning problems. They actually went back and fixed the issue in quite a lot of the affected cars which I believe had to do with low-compression piston rings (less friction, better fuel economy, increased oil consumption). However, if you keep oil in i, it will still run just about forever, but you will probably never break it of being an oil crackhead.
These cars a definitely sensitive to extended oil change intervals. In my instance, it seems like the more miles I travel, the more oil it will start to consume in the interval. The other thing to consider is changing your PCV valve regularly, and probably more frequent if you are running extended intervals on the oil(changing it every 30k mile or when you start to see a spike in oil consumption). I usually change my oil and filter around 7k miles(M1/Kirkland Full Syn Oil and M1 filter), but I'm thinking of stepping it down to 5k though because of a lot of idle time in traffic. Currently doing piston soak with MMO, and planning to keep soaking them routinely throughout the week
Get underneath the car and check the area around the rear main seal. Also check the oil pan gasket and oil drain plug for leaks. That’s a lot of oil loss. You would smoke a bunch and your catalytic converters will be smoking for sure from oil depositing on it. Also, regularly replace your pcv valve as well as replace your vacuum lines and vacuum line caps.
when he did the long trip with intermittent oil consumption i thought of a sicky pcv valve, it has to be blow by, otherwise he would see a leak under it or if it was rings it would smoke at higher rpm just sitting in the driveway.
Yamalube Ring Free. Real popular amongst Marine guys and i know some Motorcycle Mechanics that swear by it. There's also BG EPR which is advertised as a Ring Cleaner but i dont have any experience with that. I also suggest really romping on it, get the pistons and rings really heated up and perhaps the expansion will help. Running a Diesel oil may help as well with the added detergents they use. Also not sure if you've changed the PCV valve in a while but a stuck PCV valve can cause oil consumption from excessive crankcase pressure. As long as the PCV valve rattles, it's not stuck.
Thanks for the input, Jman. I'm liking the sound of that Yamalube Ring Free. Might use that in a future video (if something else doesn't free them up first ;-)). Some others mentioned the Diesel oil as well, so might try that too. PCV valve is good. Checked and cleaned it. th-cam.com/video/T6yeIOL8ifE/w-d-xo.html
Just because the PCV valve rattles doesn't mean it should not be replaced annually or every 25000 miles or whatever the maintenance interval is for the engine.
Dave this has been an excellent and scientific experiment which is rare on you tube. Thank you. Some years ago I had my 1zzfe 2001 corolla identical to yours even in color, which was burning oil at your rate. I tried a week of lacquer thinner then oil change. No improvement. then MMO then oil change like you did top end. No change. I read about Toyota's recall a few decades back for piston replacement with more and larger oil return holes in the pistons. I decided to pull the head and do that fix. Stupidly I left my head alone because valves and lash were fine. No Change! Now what? So off with the head again and I decided to add a reman head out of CAL from a respected shop. Should have done that the first time! I am now up to 2500 miles and am down just a small amt from full. Success! It was the valve seals! Off with your head dave. It is such a simple repair which cost me just over $600. You can pull your pistons while you are at it which is an easy job with a MT. Maybe even throw in a clutch which I did. My odometer is just turning 300K miles. These cars are so good otherwise that they are worth fixing. After my in car rebuild over a weekend, my mileage is 41-44. very pleased and no oil burning. The oil is still clean.. hope this helps you. You can do a timing chain as well which I also did. I did rod and cam bearings but not crank BTW.
You likely have damage to the cylinder walls or bore and ring wear causing blow-by. That could be one reason why the oil is so dark looking. There is carbon from the combustion process getting in the oil and probably quite a bit. Especially when considering how much oil you are adding, the oil should not look anything close to burnt. MMO is best used as a preventative before damage occurs. Unfortunately it won't add metal back where it once was. Good try, and interesting experiment. Some of these Toyota 4 cylinders had problems with wear even under the best conditions.
Dave: have you tried replacing the PCV valve? I wonder if your consumption issue might be a gummed up PCV valve allowing you to pull too much vacuum on the crankcase and sucking oil out of the engine. It is a long shot, but PCV valves are cheap.
Hey Dave I have the exact same car 2002 Toyota Corolla. It has 320,000 miles on it. I’ve been a technician for 37 years. Enjoyed the video you did a great job on trying to use different products. I have done all of those myself. I will pass this information onto you could be helpful. So modern Japanese cars now come with a different type of ring on the piston they’re called low friction or low effort rings. It helps the horsepower and efficiencies of the engine which turns into a better deal economy. Because the rings have less tension they lose most of the ability to wipe the cylinders dry from the oil because they’re weaker. This is why you had a lower compression on some of the cylinders and your test. Once the car warms up everything expands it’s normal. The more aggressive you drive the vehicle or at a higher RPM you will use more oil. Versus If you were in slower traffic or idling time. This is why you will get a different amount of oil usage pending on your driving condition. This is why you do not see much change from the farm or anything else. This is a common problem that I see constantly with high mileage Japanese or Korean vehicles today. I just don’t want them to go 500,000 miles anymore like they used to. Ps. A car company today can I stay in business if they make a car last so long you won’t buy a new one.
You seem like a great source of information, Bryan! Wow. 320k miles? Maybe you can help us out even more? How much oil do you burn? What oil do you use? How often do you change it? What (other) issues has your Corolla had? Any tips for prevention? Advice to keep these things rolling for that many miles? Thanks for your kind comment!
A decent explanation for this typically has to do with both the position of the ring packs as well as if they are a little stuck or not at any given time. As well as the ring gaps and tension. Don't forget piston to cylinder wall clearance.
I talked to chemist worked for specialty oil company told me the best thing to clean the inside of an engine was pure petroleum and heat. He said employees of the oil company would buy expensive neglected cars burning oil and smoking, run the engine with conventional oil at max temp around 250 degrees changing the oil and repeat several times to clean them out. I have owned a couple of these oil burners, I use conventional 10w30 winter and 10w40 in summer with a quart of Lucas, it is a pure petroleum product, I always use premium oil filter. Mine all got better over time too the point they only used 1-2 quarts between oil change 3-4 thousand miles. Problem did not happen in a couple thousand miles, so will take 10s of thousands to make it better with out mechanical intervention.
Honestly older engines wear out internally sometimes it’s the oil control rings or the seals start to leak a few good options is use 10-40 oil that will slow down the oil burning , use Lucas oil stabilizer , or engine restore and change your pcv valve that should slow down the oil burning or even use mmo in your crankcase over time you will see improvements .
Using 10w40 oil is not a good idea Gary. These engines depends on oil flow and any change in viscosity will mess with the VVTi performance. I used 10w30 and started getting more VVTi codes. This engine tend to produce sludge so if you add thick oil it will effect fuel economy by interfering with timing (advances/retards cam phase). Even the chain tensioner adjust pressure applied on chain depending on oil pressure. Thats why any experienced mechanic will tell you that you have to be religious with oil change on these engines. Not my favorite design but it makes these cars super economical with gas.
There's actually a known problem with this car. It starts to burn oil around 100K miles or so. But adding thicker oil does slow it down a bit, but you're still adding a quart of oil at least once a month. Just make it a routine if you own a 98-2002 corolla.
@@aznnp77 good to know it’s a known issue . Thanks for sharing some good advice . I also have a 96 geo prizm with a 4afe that would burn oil I changed the pcv valve and replaced the valve cover gasket and that thing would just burn oil pretty bad but I always topped off and still own it I’ve owned it since 2012 such good engines besides that flaw.
@@garymijangos9403 Yeah, the engines and transmissions on that car are bulletproof pretty much. It's just everything else that starts to go after a while. It's annoying to have to put in oil all the time though. Especially if you live in a nicer neighborhood. That's why I go with the really thick oil so I only have to do it once a month.
That oil change, MMO really did some cleaning. That small sample you took in the bolt bin looks bad. That’s a good thing. MMO is a mild cleaner and won’t plug up the oil pick up screen.
A dry and wet compression test while cold will give you all the information to diagnose your oil consumption. If it stays the same (pressure) as dry on wet it is upper end, if wet increases pressure it is the bottom end. Take you valve cover off and look at the valve train condition.
That's exactly what I was thinking the valve guide seals might be going bad and if that's the case the MMO and seafoam aren't going to make much of a difference
Gotta hand it to you! You PERSEVERE!!! And I love your background music--Bossa Nova!!! BTW, KIRKLAND, Super Tech & Amazon oils are manufactured by Warren Oil C.
I have used MMO quite bit on my airplane. First, you need to realize that MMO is basically a 5 weight oil with phosphorus added for anti-wear. It is designed to blow through the rings and the valves to keep them clean not sticking. Therefore when there is MMO in the oil the oil consumption will always be higher. Second, I don;t think you know how much oil is getting burned and how much is leaking. I had a leaky front main oil seal in my 1997 Celica, which has pretty much the same engine as that Corolla, and it was leaking about a quart every 1000 miles when I took it apart to replace the seal, replace the water pump (as merely a precaution) and replace the timing belt. Finally, my 97 Celica is the only Toyota I have ever seen where the owner's manual states that Some Oil Consumption Is Normal.
I have a Pontiac Vibe which is the same as a Toyota Matrix. Or, so I was told. It also uses a lot of oil. The story is that Toyota reduced the ring pressure to get better fuel mileage. After several thousand miles the rings get very weak and allows oil to bypass.
I went through a lot of this on my Saturn. Exact same scenario where it would use a random amount. Turns out if I kept the engine under 2k rpms, it didn't burn hardly any oil.
The interesting thing is when I started to drive slow and low RPM with a high gas mileage my car started to eat oil. Maybe it is coeincidence, but seems for my 1NZ-FE an italian tune-up is a must have.
@@volodymyrzakolodyazhny 1nxfe engines burn oil from the factory on purpose for mpg efficiency The oil ring has lower tensile strength... Replace it with a higher tensile strength oil ring and it will solve the oil consumption... I have an xb1
If it was my car..I would substitute one quart of oil with a can of Engine Restore and see if that fixes the oil burning problem. I've used Engine Restore for many years on older engines and it really helps. Another product I use is Lucas Oil which I add at every oil change. But try the Engine Restore and see if it solves your oil burning isse.
Hi there, Claus from Sweden herr, use a 2001 Corolla as a daily driver to work.Used a lot of pil, still burns oil but not that much anymore! My solution was a couple of oilchanges with good quality oil to flush THE engine, new oilchange with part synthetic 10w/40 and a new pcv-valve, the old was stucked! Now i have to top it of once a month or every 2500 km with 1 liter instead as before once a week!! My advice is a bit thicker oil and a pcv-valve check!! Good luck!
The irregular oil burning can be caused by blow by and may worsen depending on fuel quality and harder driving conditions. Also, the PCV system working well factors into the amount of oil burning caused by blow by.
RESTORE. Like a miracle on 2 engines burning oil. Noticable power increase in every engine I've tried it. "mechanic in a can" 👍 Always use the large can regardless of engine.
Another reason for high oil consumption could be a blocked positive crankcase ventilation valve. If this thing gets stuck, the crankcase cannot breathe, & it can pressurise the crankcase, thus causing high oil consumption. Replace the spark plugs while you're at it.
+1 2005 f150 4.6 250,000 Ate 7/8 quart per 3000 miles. Cleaned PCV and ran way better and consumption is almost gone. New PCV was $18 @ Ford dealer and takes 10 seconds to install
@@koreymayo8884 probably not, its worth a try though. The pcv is really easy to clean/change on these engines. He hasn't done it yet he will do it in the next video
He laid mention PVC was ok ,it is bigger in nature within the top end parasitic defect ,was gonna try adding a extra vent to valve cover to see if it helps.🤔👍✌️💪🙏🤙😎
On this car it's clogged cylinder holes I believe. Only way to fix it is to take apart the engine. The PCV valve takes like 5 minutes to change cuz it's in the top of the engine bay but it doesn't do anything. You can make the oil thicker various ways to slow down the consumption, but you will be adding oil to the car indefinitely starting at around 100K miles or so.
@@hotrodray6802 some Toyota’s have the pcv in the middle of the block and not in the valve cover. And to make things worse the pcv is bolted in horizontally and not vertically so oil dosnt drain out and gets gummed up in pcv
We had great results with a single treatment of MMO in a large displacement air cooled engine. Cleared excess oil consumption up quickly and in a single treatment.
Not a myth; it's documented fact that in older engines, synthetic oil burns off quicker than conventional. Several theories exist, but nobody has found a definitive answer. The fact is that many people, after switching to synthetic, notice increased consumption only with synthetic oil, but not after switching back to conventional. It could be that synthetic is burning off engine deposits, or that it's able to reach through worn piston rings that conventional oil can't penetrate. Or, it's leaking through seals that conventional oil has swelled shut, or it's escaping through the PVC system. Or, there's some kind of chemical reaction with synthetic oil interacting with carbon fouled galleys and valves, which makes it more volatile. You get the idea. Nobody knows what causes it, but it happens, mainly on older engines that saw only/mostly conventional oil for its first 100k miles, and now has tried synthetic. If you decide to keep running synthetic, just keep the oil topped up. If you don't want the hassle of checking the oil at every fill up, just go back to conventional.
Interesting stuff. You might have already read this particular suggestion (so I apologize): using Techron with some normal/medium high concentration BUT NOT driving the car a lot, instead letting it sit more time than you drive it. Say if there are 400 miles in the tank you spread them across 1-1.5 months, instead of quickly burning through the gasoline. This has helped me with my 2015 Audi Q5. It still burns oil, of course! However, not at the 600-700 miles a quart, but at 1,300-1,500 miles a quart. Once even 1,888 miles/quart. I assume the Techron gets past the piston rings downward and helps soak them. With time - not with driving - it begins to have effect. But this needs to be repeated two times, and then new oil change (your oil is always new in this car I guess). Once the piston rings clog up again, the new cycle begins. 😕 To add the final touch, adding Gumout (which has PEA) into the oil crankcase will send the PEAs to piston rings from the bottom as well, for a few hundred miles - but give some time for the car to just sit parked so that they soak up.
Check the plugs to see if any look especially oil fouled. Consider that it could be a valve stem leaking, or as others mentioned the PCV valve. In the case its a leaking valve stem or cylinders, you could try Restore. Also run MMO in the gas
PCV valve and valve stem seal videos coming soon, Taydrum! Also did a Motor Flush video and a cylinder scoping video if you missed them. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Just saw them today and I think its leaning towards valve stems. At this point I don't think the rings could still be stuck, unless they are totally broken. Cheers look forward to the next one!
You really need to add MMO to each cylinder, take out all spark plugs first the pour a few ounces into each cylinder. Turn engine over a few times. Pour in another few ounces into each cylinder. Wait overnight or 8 hours, repeat MMO treatment, make sure you turn engine over a few times with spark plugs out. Do it twice and it should get all carbon out of all the oil control rings. Install spark plugs and run engine for a hour or so on freeway. Not traffic. 😊
I have a 1978 Toyota Corolla SW equipped with the 3TC hemi pushrod 1.8L engine. With 140, 000 miles on it, oil consumption is about 1qt/1200 miles. I change the engine oil at 1500 miles with filter using conventional oil adding a qt of Rislone that I've been using for years. The engine is simple/reliable/durable and highly modifiable which is why I kept it for 33 yrs being the 2nd owner. They were simple cars of the day.
For sticking rings I've had good luck with Rislone.. If it's using oil due to worn rings and or polished piston bore.. I'd probably suggest a little heavier oil, or substitute a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer.
@@goldengirls0125 Oil additive.. they have the Lucas stabilizer for standard and synthetic oil.. Rislone engine treatment is an oil additive.. but both Lucas and Rislone make a gas additive for clogged fuel injectors.
I am a converted believer in Marvel mystery oil!!! I drive a 2012 Acura TL AWD with the 3.7 L engine. My car was burning just under a half a quart of oil every 1000 miles. If you do a quick Google search you’ll find that many of the 3.7 L Acuras have oil consumption problems due to carbon build up on the rings. Acura even issued a recall, but they won’t do the repair unless it exceeds a quart per 1000 miles. So at .45qt per 1000 mi., Acura told me to get lost! On a last hope I watched a couple of Marvel mystery oil videos. I tried it using the bottom up process. My car is now at 3000 miles on the trip counter and the oil is still at the top of the dipstick hash mark. MMO UNSTUCK THE RINGS IN MY ACURA!!!!!
@@seanofto I drove about 600 Mi with the MMO the first time then changed the oil. But no MMO in the crankcase now. I intend to put more in about 600 Mi. before the next oil change.
Hello there. I have a 2005 5.3L automatic 4x4 Yukon with 223,000 miles. It holds 6 qts of oil. I changed oil (10w30 conventional) and filter (walmart brand base filter) before a 6,500 mile mostly intestate trip from CO mountains to Mid-Atlantic to South and then back up to CO mountains. In the first 4,000 miles of trip Yukon burned 1.75 quarts of oil. Before making the last 2,500 miles of trip (uphill to CO) I added .75 quart MMO (conventional formula) to bring level to Full. It burned none in 2,500 miles to and around CO before I changed the oil/filter. So it went from burning 1.75 qts in 4,000 miles mostly downhill driving to not burning any in the next 2,500 miles of uphill and mountain driving. On the trip I averaged between 16.8 and 18.1 mpg, checked by gallons and miles tracking and compared to vehicles MPG gauge. The computer was very close, always within .1 to .2 mpg. Can someone explain this dynamic? I'm going to test it again on another 3,500 mile road trip soon to South and back to CO again. If I have to add a quart I'm going to add 1 qt MMO to see if it stops the consumption again. Peace!
When the rings stick...they start scoring the cylinder walls, scaping away material. This is a case of too-little, too-late. The oil blow-by cant be fixed at that point.
Really well structured and complete test. Thank You. Could be that the oil is going someplace else. It is surely not leaking as the bottom of the motor is spotless. Could be the PCV system, valve guide seals, blockage of the oil return holes in the head or ??? If the motor has ever been overheated it could be that the rings have lost their tension and become rubbery. If so, the only fix would be new rings. The list goes on and on including cylinder walls with too much taper from wear or worn ring lands on the pistons. Good luck and if you ever solve the issue please post the solution. That is a LOT of oil usage. The MMO probably did a great cleaning job for you.
I have the same car as you with 207k on it. For years I was burning 1/4 quart In 700 miles which made me angry. It took me a long time but I figured it out. My route is a highway drive through the mountains, I drive it 3x a month. Here's the cause, if I drive 65mph or less, I burn nothing. When I drive 80-85 I burn oil. This is posted speed limit 85mph in beaver Utah so no complaints please. Tachwise, its sustained over 3k rpm which burns oil. Are you driving fast or do you have the overdrive defeat turned on?? See if that helps, when I first figured it out I thought it couldn't be what I thought, nope.. thats it 100%. After seeing how much you're burning I feel really good, I no longer want to buy another car, you helped me Thank You!
Try Mercury power tune, I’ve used it on four stroke outboard motors with low compression and have seen huge improvements, I’ve also used on a mower that smoked and burnt oil badly and after a couple of treatments with power tune, it ran like new.
Even though I’m not real big into that motor flush, given your situation and my experience I would do it. Then do a short term flush after maybe 200 miles with cheaper oil then add good quality oil and Rislone to the engine. With your engine being a 4 cyl i’ve seen good results from Rislone when it was used at a dealership. I’ve used it once and liked it. Surprised MMO didn’t give more results. I have used it a lot in some of my MB’s with higher compression and i did see a noticeable difference in engine operation and fuel economy. I keep them tuned up well but it still made a positive difference. Best of luck.
My Chrysler 2.7L engine disclosed to me last year that it was losing oil. My first response was to treat it as a leak. I had experienced enough success with various "stop leak" products in the radiator and the A/C as to choose to begin my effort by adding stop-leak to the oil. That didn't work. The car has been used for long road trips this year of greater than 500 miles each. Two weeks ago the trip showed a loss of oil that required me to add about 12 oz of oil to reach "full". This weekend the trip showed no serious loss of oil. My suspicion is that the rings were stuck to the piston and the persistent high speed highway trips finally loosened them. I've also been measuring my fuel economy in this car. The most recent weekend trip also showed an improved fuel economy. Moving forward, I'll be using 20% MMO with each oil change.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Hi Dave, March 18 I changed oil and filter. I used 100% Royal Purple 5W30. On March 21 the engine died. I'll soon get to the crankshaft bearings to see if that was the cause of the failure. I've since changed my mind on using MMO. I won't use it. The lower viscosity is too dangerous.
You probably need new valve guide seals especially in the 2 cylinders that have low compression when cold. You also might want to change your pcv valve as well.
Thier really no way of tellin if youv got stuck rings or just a whole lotta wear. That's th reason that sometimes what he did with that marvil mystery oil l work and sometimes it wont
IT's a complex issue, especially with Corolla's which are notorious for this issue. If you catch the stuck oil control ring issue early on and use a product such as MMO either in the crankcase or doing repeated top cylinder heat soaks, then there is a good chance you will be able to un-stick the oil control rings before there is significant piston sleve damage. On the other hand the reverse holds true as well. If the issue has been ongoing for a long time, especially when the engine has hundreds of thousands of miles and no real effort made to correct the seized oil control rings during that time, then at that point the damage is done, it's no longer just the seized oil control rings but rather it's also the scaring that has occurred to the piston sleves which can vary quite a bit from one sleeve to another depending on how carbon built up around and underneath the individual seized oil control rings which in turn will determine how far out of seat that particular ring gets manipulated which in turn how much piston sleeve scarring will occur in that particular sleeve. A contributing factor to that will be clogging piston oil return passages which can also be very random as far as which piston that will occur most or least on. 3 sleeves might suffer much less scarring if the piston oil return passages on the pistons in those sleeves were able to maintain at least a minimal amount of flow, whereas if one of the 4 pistons ends up with a clogged oil return passage then that particular sleeve will suffer significant metal scarring as there will be no barrier left between the sleeve wall and the slightly out of spec oil control ring that has been contorted due to carbon building up in the oil control ring seat, forcing it outwards beyond what it should be. That particular piston will then show a significant difference in compression versus the other 3. So if you are at the point where significant sleeve scarring has occurred, even if you do manage to free up the seized oil control rings via additive, the oil consumption will not be halted due to the fact that the scarred up piston sleeves will no longer allow for a proper oil seal even though the oil control rings have been freed up. That is most likely what is going on in this situation. Every time I've encountered this issue which does not respond to these measures, once that engine is disassembled the evidence is very clear as to why it was too late for that particular engine. The cylinder sleeve scarring was just too great even for a freed up oil control ring to be able to get a proper seal against. Both Seafoam and MMO when used correctly can and do indeed free-up seized oil control rights, but neither Seafoam nor MMO can correct for scarred cylinder sleeve walls due to running an engine with seized oil control rings for many miles before a the problem is corrected.
I doubt that sticking ring are the issue . Toyota had a big recall because the oil recovery holes in the pistons were too small to begin with. They plugged with oil varnish. The fix is new pistons and rings . No reboring
Dave, great videos . Your experiments are done well. Others have mentioned PCV valve / it’s cheap and easy to replace . At this point, your #2 and #3 cylinder walls may be scored. I would use 20w-50 in South Carolina in all seasons but the very coldest of winter. I know a lot of guys would say no way, but why not? The engine is getting close to the end of its usable service life. I applaud your efforts to keep the Corolla running. It’s a great car- wishing you good luck with it .
I had a Corolla like that mine burned little oil but I used oil additives and it helped with the oil burning those are good little cars and oil at Walmart is cheap enough to keep topping it off . Great video by the way !
considering the age and mileage in your car, you should be using a premium high mileage oil. appears you’re only using a pure synthetic. non high mileage oils in higher mileage vehicles will combust a lot more than high mileage oils, which will contribute to oil loss. i’ve tested this out myself and am experiencing good results. also, MMO should help eliminate rattling noises in your engine if you had any. I HIGHLY recommend you use an OIL STABILIZER to help eliminate oil loss, something else I do as well. lucas oil stabilizer or motor honey work really well. just add about 15% oil stabilizer, or about .8 quarts in place of standard oil in next oil change and you’ll notice a big difference.
Use the highest Flashpoint oil like pennzoil ultra platinum mixed with MOA oil treatment to reduce oil consumption assuming your pcv valve is working properly.
I had 78 chevy truck inline 6.using bardahl prevent burning oil.engine inside unclean, tiring engine from junkyard. Put engine in. When i pour in bardahl help cleansing it increase up 200 more miles.warn you it will coming great big white smoke if cloud. Every stop at gas fill with 5vquart of oils everytime.i had this truck with 4vwheelers forv6 months.its toughest tiring truck even tired transmission still good running truck.
I've had good luck with an oil burning Corolla doing several soaks with an ATF, Varsol, Kerosene, Acetone mix in equal parts. It's referred to as" Ed's Red" in the firearms community and is used in cleaning bore deposits etc.
I have a 2003 Toyota Matrix about to roll 300k, it’s been using about a about a 1/2 quart every 600 miles or so. I’ve used sea foam high mileage in the oil for about 600 miles and oil consumption has drastically been reduced. Will try MMO next for an entire OCI next. Also, there was a TSB put out several years ago increasing the oil capacity to 4.5 quarts on the 1zz fe engine. Never got the updated dip stick but I always fill it about 1/2 inch above the second dot.
I am using this in my gas religiously. And exactly by the recommendations too much or too little not good. Your experiment would give you even better results you're doing this too
I use MMO in my engine only as a safe flush solution. Because the viscosity is lost when you add whole MMO quart. Also since its deep cleaning all the sludge and carbon it will be black for sure when draining and you will lose power due to this slow flush. You did clean it out well throughout the video 😎👌 hopefully some oil stabilizer or some anti friction additives help. Obviously people are gonna say is get a new engine lol but to his or her own.
great video,i like the way you did this. I have a 94 Honda civic 4 cly.bought it new.AT 500,000 it ran hot on me,and started burning oil,1 quart every 250 miles.This i let go for 2 months then decided to do water pump head gasket and rings. when i took out the pistons i found the compression rings where free,but the oil control were gummed up,i took them off,THEN i noticed the OIL RETURN HOLES WERE COMPLETELY CLOGGED UP all 6 on every piston.I was shocked,i cleaned them out by hand with a drill bit,flex honed the cylinders and PUT BACK IN STOCK sized rings.3,000 miles later at the oil change it was 1/2 quart down,it now has 540,000 miles and only uses 1/2 qt every 3,000 miles.IT was pumping oil after it got hot .original block and head,and bearings.even had some cly crosshatch pattern left in it when i honed it ,amazing.motor.
Absolutely. Then, blow it out good. Then, change the oil. ACDelco GM Original Equipment Engine Cylinder/Combustion Chamber Cleaner is recommended by many, but B12 will clean the upper cylinder. Berryman also sells 2611 Intake Valve and Combustion Chamber Cleaner. These last two are spendy. If you annually soaked the upper cylinder with MMO thereafter that might be good enough. You might want to use a threaded spark plug thread air compressor adaptor to blow out the MMO. If the liquid doesn't go down under a little pressure the rings are probably still dirty. The combustion chambers and upper cylinders of flatheads were recommended to be cleaned every year or so - few owners did. The motor oils weren't very good. Because the exhaust valves are in the block close to the upper part of the piston the oil would get gummed and eventually turn to carbon. That era fortunately passed but the late model engines get hotter and the tolerances are tighter. Avoid extended oil changes.
Dave my name is Mike.I really enjoyed watching your video it was a great experiment.thanks for your hard work in making this...I am extremely familiar with your problem... you are a victim of Toyota not manning up to a factory problem they had in the 1zz engine family.toyota used low tension rings on these engines to minimize friction and therefore reduce drag on the engine resulting in increasing fuel economy... unfortunately the rings were a little too low tension and it resulted in oil blow by... unfortunately the only way you will eliminate the problem is to pull the motor and change the f@#king rings...it's a common well known problem and you did nothing wrong this is a factory defect that Toyota will not acknowledge..
Remember that when you're going uphill more often, you're loading the engine and you have more vacuumed and that makes you use more through the PCV system. I think you may be missing at least part of the culprit here. Marvel Mystery Oil you only need to use about a week before you're going to change the oil. Tends to work more than well enough. A quart of transmission fluid for that last week before you change oil would also work well
I also tried Marvel Mystery Oil on my 03 Corolla. Ended up having to replace the valve cover gasket, as it must have loosened gunk blocking leaks around the gasket. 😲
Weird I don't see a date on this video, which I've ever not seen before. But I have a 2000 Prizm, which is a rebadged Corolla. I believe that oil burn is from clogged cylinder holes or something. The only way to fix it is to take it all apart and drill the holes or something. But to answer some of your questions, the car burns more oil at highway speeds than driving locally. Mine was burning a quart every 2 weeks or so. Maybe 400-500 miles. That's when I was using the cheap Supertech 5w-30 conventional. I've since switched over to Shell Rotella T4 15w-40 and it burns about a quart a month now (I used to use Rotella T6 5W-40 but this stuff is cheapter and works the same). It's diesel oil so it's more durable. Only have to fill up once a month now. I usually keep mine about a quart overfilled just in a case I forget to do it.
I noticed in my car that if you drive more aggressively the oil consumption goes up so you must keep this in mind when doing tests to keep it controlled.
I've added transmission fluids, gear oil (just 1 qt), vegetable oil, power steering fluid, and even brske fluid to my oil crankcase before in emergencies and drove it thousands of miles before changing. Didn't seem to have any negative affects.
Some Chevy LS motors consume oil as well and a solution was to drill 4 holes on the oil ring piston groove... If all else fails I would suggest trying that out if its possible... Love your show
this engine have holes in the piston groove for that, problem is the holes are too small on the early version of the engine. they revised it on 00 models
Thicker oil won't fix the poor piston design in these engines and neither will lucas oil treatment, but that stuff is good for valve stem seals in other cars
Need to consider the viscosity. Worn engines will burn more oil, the thinner the oil is. I personally would not be using full synthetic if your going through that much oil. You will burn more and your wallet will get lighter too. Your oil never gets a chance to get dirty or over used to a breakdown point, so using synthetic for longer life is a waste. Try regular flavor Penzoil and I bet your compression will come back a bit.
MMO in my opinion is more effective mixed in the gas tank not the oil and safer because your not messing with the viscosity of the oil. I would also use 10W-30 seeing as you live in a warm climate. I have noticed that I get 1-3 MPG more when I put it in my gas tank you just have to be careful not to over do it and every so often go through a tank without putting any in. Thanks for the video.
I have a low miles 45 k of the Toyota oil burning 4 cylinder engine. It doesn’t burn oil but would u add to gas as a preventative to the future oil sludge on piston ring problem or just change oil every 3 k miles ?
I Had chevy cavalier burned a little oil pulling a 5x8 trailer. At just over 200k a GM tech told me to use Rotella 15 40 diesel oil. It greatly reduced oil consumption. Engine was still running strong at over 330k. Im also from SC
Use the chemical Engine Restorer by Restore. It is sold in most auto parts. Also, buy a new PCV. On your last video you only sprayed it, if you are going to reuse it, should leave it in parts cleaner for a few hours. It is easier, and cheap enough to replace. PCV are a check valve that needs to operate smoothly. You can try heavier oil, probably 15w-40 Shell Rotella.
also as a side note synthetic oil has a high consumption rate which is normal and a side effect of using it. 1 qt of oil per 3000 miles on a 6qt system is normal ..spirited driving is possibly double. this is NORMAL for synthetic oil ..use regular oil when diagnosing oil consumption to rule out. This info was obtained by me from a long discussion with a mobil one engineer about 18 years ago.
I believe Your motor is in stage 3 of oil consumption. ( if so , nothing You add to the motor will remedy the problem ) Watch " The car care nut " . He does a series about Toyotas that burn oil .
I also would like to point out that Marvel Mystery Oil will clean the inside of the engine better than almost anything you can put in it. They've been battling that since 1923. It is high in phosphorus and phosphorus is a very good cleaner. But it doesn't have a seal conditioner. So every once in awhile you can actually put a quart of transmission fluid in it to make sure that all the seals get condition quite well. That's another old-school trick. But don't forget to put an oil catch can on it. Preferably with a drain
Marvel Mystery Oil is used as a cleaner/solvent to remove sludge and build up inside engines. Even though it claims to make the car quieter it comes with sluggish performance due to the cleaning while its doing its new oil cycle. Meaning you can add MMO every cycle to safely do an engine flush without realizing it. But as far as I know about those corollas they have piston ring issues. Oil stabilizer can do only so much the car was essentially working harder because of all the old oil coming off during its cleanup with MMO thus burning oil long distance. Just my 2 cents.
One explanation for difference on long trip may be the gas you filled up with. Gas is thicker (better) in morning or cooler weather. Less evaporation if you fill tank slowly and at ½ tank. Never fill when the trucker is depositing into tanks due to stirring up sediment. You moght look into a one tank laquer thinner in gas run through. Also helps to clean cat.
Had a ‘00 prism with that motor and a 3 spd auto. Used 1 qt every 75 miles in 55mph daily driving. Ran absolutely perfect. Turned out to be a convenient way to use the many jugs of used motor oil that I had sitting around.
USED motor oil in an engine DESTROYS it. My dad told me to do that when I was young and knew nothing. Destroyed a good V-8. Pour the used motor oil over the entire car and yourself. Light it. That's REALLY good for both you and your car. Or maybe not.
Maybe you should try using a good quality high mileage oil instead of the cheap Wal-Mart oil and make a video for comparison, I'm curious if that would be any better.
I use a bottle of the blue STP oil treatment and 5oz of Motorkote with my Supertech Full Synthetic oil every oil change. I have 190,000 miles and have used it since new. I gave the engine 20,000 miles to break in. I change the oil at 10,000 mile intervals and it doesn't use any oil to speak of between oil changes. It actually made my engine quieter than when new. My daughter has a 94 Corolla and went 13,000 miles on her oil change and needed 1/2 a quart of Supertech Full Synthetic before coming back to Michigan from Kansas. Dad changes the oil not her. I alway use the Cheap Supertech oil filters because your oil filter is there to catch the big stuff. Oil bypasses the filter when cold until it gets thin enough to flow through the filter. I have used the cheap no name filters for 30 years, most are made by Purolator. Stay away from Fram they are poorly made and quality control is crap.
I use Lucas fuel treatment in a bmw that is know for sucking oil rings. This advice was from a well known bmw guru. Oil consumption improved from 1 qt every 1500 miles to a more normal 6000 miles. I now use it in all my cars .
had a similar problem , my car was losing about 1qt every mnth or so ( not as bad as yours) i also had low comp on 3 cylinders (tested cold) its a v6 so 3cyl wrre @ 175 and 3 were@ 75, ....100psi diff, adding spoon of oil to low cylinders brought them up to 175,..after dismantiling engine i found oil control rings completely clogged with carbon on 3 pistons due to oil drain back holes in piston being clogged , these 3 cylinders were burning oil due to no functioning oil control ring, compression rings were not stuck or broken, i cannot explain the low compression, only guess that maybe burning oil long period of time caused some carbon coating of cylinder walls possibly causeing compression rings not to seal well, idk
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY the oil drain back holes were extremely small, 1.5mm, (4 on each piston) i had to use oxy torch tip cleaner tool to poke out the carbon,..before reassembling engine i drilled them all out to 1/8"
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY cleaned pistons in berrymans chem dip, bought new rings, new rod bearings, checked cylinders with bore gauge, honed them with ball hone
Dave, I have watched all your three videos on engine oil burning reduction attempt. Even thought the results are negative, they all provide valuable information and guidance for future DIYers. Your work will save them tons of time, effort, and expenses.
Appreciate you shared your results. Keep on the good work, and hope you will find a solution for your Corolla.
Thanks for the kind words, SunnySky. I'm certainly hoping we're helping somebody.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I second that. In the mean time it's still a Toyota, and they just don't seem to quit. :-)
@@Skoda130 👍🏻👍🏻
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY wonder if adding a vent to valve cover would aide this issue , 94 Corolla 136,000 miles same deal no oil leak , spark plugs good except #2 oil leak thru top gasket 7afe engine burns same amount as yours close , gonna check cat next exhaust seems ok , thanks for share of info ,helps alot head and piston check is next.👍✌️💪🙏😔🖖
I am going to replace valve cover gasket again, timing chain o ring and and pcv valve just because they are easy enough and also known oil consumption problems and there is too much oil from over the years to tell if it's really fresh but I do get oil in spark tubes so valve cover gasket is bad, although new I must have messed something up doing it 😂
One thing that MMO really does help with is lifter noise. I've had several different engines with lifter tick, and it goes away almost instantly as soon as you pour this stuff in. blows my mind every time.
Lifter ticking caused by clog oil passage on those hydraulic lifter, those marvel oil may have heavy cleaning power till it can unclog the lifter immediately.
The Toyota 4 . 0 v6 newer motors have high lifter noise MMO wiil reduce it by 80 % or 100 depending on mileage
Did you use the whole thing of mystery oil
I know from first hand experience that Marvel Mystery oil is very good product. It does free up sticky valves and piston rings. I have also used it for oil thinning in my engine crankcase oil for deep sub-zero freezing weather. It works very well.
Yes especially when it is very cold. I personally if I was in minus weather for long periods of time would thin my engine oil with marvel 50/50. It works wonders with electric motors that have crankcases , the become unusable in very cold weather because the oil gets so thick the blow breakers, 100 percent marvel the run perfect even when very cold .
When I was a young man and just getting into working on cars an old timer told me to free an engine that was frozen from not being run in years, they would fill up the engine with diesel fuel as well as pouring it into each cylinder then let sit sit for several days.
Yep old guy here it can do wonders don’t drive it or put a load on the engine . You could add a pint of diesel to oil a little safer and let it idle then let it sit over night warm up next day let it sit warm up next day and change oil and filter
And then what !
Then replace the piston rings and good to go 😂
Scott Robertson • Good one. Funny man 😁
Yep same for rc cars- let it soak with some fresh nitro fuel
Australian experience. My brother has a Corolla - earlier model than yours - with more than 450,000 kiliometers (280,000 miles) - engine untouched and unmodified, and uses Castrol GTX High Mileage Engine Oil - 15W-50 for all his oil changes which he does at every 5,000 km (3,000 miles) with a filter change as well. The car uses a very tiny amount of oil in that time. Not enough used to require topping up. I think a specific high mileage oil for older engines - usually higher viscosity such as 15w40 or 15w50 or even 20w40 or 20w50 would be beneficial. We don't have any seriously cold weather in Adelaide, Australia so that might be a factor for you. Following your experiments with interest. Cheers from Adelaide, Australia
Would you recommend the thicker oil with a 2007 car with only 45 k miles? Im really asking if a car in this situation is considered a high miles car because of age.
Ditto. Have 2002 Toyota Corolla with 1ZZ-FE engine currently on 485000kms (300,000 miles). Had since new and it’s been serviced with oil change every 8000-10,000kms. No engine work has been done apart from air filters, plugs changed 3x and oil filter replaced when oil changed. It’s interesting as most experts say the motor is a throw away after 200,000kms and cant be rebuilt. Pulls like a train and burns little oil. I run any reputable brand 15-40W or 20-50W. The engine uses 500ml or less oil every 5000-8000kms. 50 litre fuel tank and I get 850-900kms to a tank of 91 octane petrol. Brilliant car overall.
My son has my old 2009 Corolla, 530,000km+ and still runs like a top, still on the factory brake pads too.
Lmao. It's -20c where I live in winters. 15w50 would make my engine go kabooom
Toyota had a few years where they had oil burning problems. They actually went back and fixed the issue in quite a lot of the affected cars which I believe had to do with low-compression piston rings (less friction, better fuel economy, increased oil consumption). However, if you keep oil in i, it will still run just about forever, but you will probably never break it of being an oil crackhead.
These cars a definitely sensitive to extended oil change intervals. In my instance, it seems like the more miles I travel, the more oil it will start to consume in the interval. The other thing to consider is changing your PCV valve regularly, and probably more frequent if you are running extended intervals on the oil(changing it every 30k mile or when you start to see a spike in oil consumption). I usually change my oil and filter around 7k miles(M1/Kirkland Full Syn Oil and M1 filter), but I'm thinking of stepping it down to 5k though because of a lot of idle time in traffic.
Currently doing piston soak with MMO, and planning to keep soaking them routinely throughout the week
PCV valve is cleaned easily so you don't really need to change it until it can work.
Get underneath the car and check the area around the rear main seal. Also check the oil pan gasket and oil drain plug for leaks. That’s a lot of oil loss. You would smoke a bunch and your catalytic converters will be smoking for sure from oil depositing on it. Also, regularly replace your pcv valve as well as replace your vacuum lines and vacuum line caps.
when he did the long trip with intermittent oil consumption i thought of a sicky pcv valve, it has to be blow by, otherwise he would see a leak under it or if it was rings it would smoke at higher rpm just sitting in the driveway.
I have found that 20W-50 reduced my oil consumption by about 70 percent in a oil burner. And it ran and started fine in cold weather in NE Ohio.
What kind of car?
T his has got to be the most through video related to any oil additive I’ve seen. I don’t know how I found you, but Dave, you are fantastic.
Thanks for that super kind comment!
Yamalube Ring Free. Real popular amongst Marine guys and i know some Motorcycle Mechanics that swear by it. There's also BG EPR which is advertised as a Ring Cleaner but i dont have any experience with that. I also suggest really romping on it, get the pistons and rings really heated up and perhaps the expansion will help. Running a Diesel oil may help as well with the added detergents they use. Also not sure if you've changed the PCV valve in a while but a stuck PCV valve can cause oil consumption from excessive crankcase pressure. As long as the PCV valve rattles, it's not stuck.
Thanks for the input, Jman. I'm liking the sound of that Yamalube Ring Free. Might use that in a future video (if something else doesn't free them up first ;-)). Some others mentioned the Diesel oil as well, so might try that too. PCV valve is good. Checked and cleaned it. th-cam.com/video/T6yeIOL8ifE/w-d-xo.html
Just because the PCV valve rattles doesn't mean it should not be replaced annually or every 25000 miles or whatever the maintenance interval is for the engine.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I would replace the PCV valve , only NOT worth cleaning it .
@@peterrudy9207 Agree, PCV are beyond cheap and once its stuck once it'll just stick relatively soon afterwards.
Dave this has been an excellent and scientific experiment which is rare on you tube. Thank you. Some years ago I had my 1zzfe 2001 corolla identical to yours even in color, which was burning oil at your rate. I tried a week of lacquer thinner then oil change. No improvement. then MMO then oil change like you did top end. No change. I read about Toyota's recall a few decades back for piston replacement with more and larger oil return holes in the pistons. I decided to pull the head and do that fix. Stupidly I left my head alone because valves and lash were fine. No Change! Now what? So off with the head again and I decided to add a reman head out of CAL from a respected shop. Should have done that the first time! I am now up to 2500 miles and am down just a small amt from full. Success! It was the valve seals! Off with your head dave. It is such a simple repair which cost me just over $600. You can pull your pistons while you are at it which is an easy job with a MT. Maybe even throw in a clutch which I did. My odometer is just turning 300K miles. These cars are so good otherwise that they are worth fixing. After my in car rebuild over a weekend, my mileage is 41-44. very pleased and no oil burning. The oil is still clean.. hope this helps you. You can do a timing chain as well which I also did. I did rod and cam bearings but not crank BTW.
Lots of good info, Hugh. Thanks. BTW I did the valve stem seals in a more recent video. Pistons might be coming soon.
You likely have damage to the cylinder walls or bore and ring wear causing blow-by. That could be one reason why the oil is so dark looking. There is carbon from the combustion process getting in the oil and probably quite a bit. Especially when considering how much oil you are adding, the oil should not look anything close to burnt. MMO is best used as a preventative before damage occurs. Unfortunately it won't add metal back where it once was. Good try, and interesting experiment. Some of these Toyota 4 cylinders had problems with wear even under the best conditions.
We have better results in later videos. Thanks for watching!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIYamsoil tech said nothing do with colors.
Dave: have you tried replacing the PCV valve? I wonder if your consumption issue might be a gummed up PCV valve allowing you to pull too much vacuum on the crankcase and sucking oil out of the engine. It is a long shot, but PCV valves are cheap.
Haven't seen you check your PVC valve put some seafoam down your power booster air air vacuum line
I thought the same thing. It's like a straw sucking it out of there.
Concur. 2005 f150 250,000 miles and it was the PCV. Oil consumption went from 7/8 quart per 3000 miles to almost zero after cleaning (then replacing)
Cool experiment on the Corolla. It would seem MMO does work. Thanks for showing folks how to do a proper oil change.
Hey Dave I have the exact same car 2002 Toyota Corolla. It has 320,000 miles on it. I’ve been a technician for 37 years. Enjoyed the video you did a great job on trying to use different products. I have done all of those myself. I will pass this information onto you could be helpful.
So modern Japanese cars now come with a different type of ring on the piston they’re called low friction or low effort rings. It helps the horsepower and efficiencies of the engine which turns into a better deal economy. Because the rings have less tension they lose most of the ability to wipe the cylinders dry from the oil because they’re weaker. This is why you had a lower compression on some of the cylinders and your test. Once the car warms up everything expands it’s normal. The more aggressive you drive the vehicle or at a higher RPM you will use more oil. Versus If you were in slower traffic or idling time. This is why you will get a different amount of oil usage pending on your driving condition.
This is why you do not see much change from the farm or anything else. This is a common problem that I see constantly with high mileage Japanese or Korean vehicles today. I just don’t want them to go 500,000 miles anymore like they used to.
Ps. A car company today can I stay in business if they make a car last so long you won’t buy a new one.
You seem like a great source of information, Bryan! Wow. 320k miles? Maybe you can help us out even more? How much oil do you burn? What oil do you use? How often do you change it? What (other) issues has your Corolla had? Any tips for prevention? Advice to keep these things rolling for that many miles? Thanks for your kind comment!
A decent explanation for this typically has to do with both the position of the ring packs as well as if they are a little stuck or not at any given time. As well as the ring gaps and tension. Don't forget piston to cylinder wall clearance.
I talked to chemist worked for specialty oil company told me the best thing to clean the inside of an engine was pure petroleum and heat. He said employees of the oil company would buy expensive neglected cars burning oil and smoking, run the engine with conventional oil at max temp around 250 degrees changing the oil and repeat several times to clean them out. I have owned a couple of these oil burners, I use conventional 10w30 winter and 10w40 in summer with a quart of Lucas, it is a pure petroleum product, I always use premium oil filter. Mine all got better over time too the point they only used 1-2 quarts between oil change 3-4 thousand miles. Problem did not happen in a couple thousand miles, so will take 10s of thousands to make it better with out mechanical intervention.
You need to get a new car.
Honestly older engines wear out internally sometimes it’s the oil control rings or the seals start to leak a few good options is use 10-40 oil that will slow down the oil burning , use Lucas oil stabilizer , or engine restore and change your pcv valve that should slow down the oil burning or even use mmo in your crankcase over time you will see improvements .
Using 10w40 oil is not a good idea Gary. These engines depends on oil flow and any change in viscosity will mess with the VVTi performance. I used 10w30 and started getting more VVTi codes. This engine tend to produce sludge so if you add thick oil it will effect fuel economy by interfering with timing (advances/retards cam phase). Even the chain tensioner adjust pressure applied on chain depending on oil pressure. Thats why any experienced mechanic will tell you that you have to be religious with oil change on these engines. Not my favorite design but it makes these cars super economical with gas.
Can add a 1/2 bottle of Lucas engine oil stop leak to new oil after trying to free rings like you did or bottle stp it should help
There's actually a known problem with this car. It starts to burn oil around 100K miles or so. But adding thicker oil does slow it down a bit, but you're still adding a quart of oil at least once a month. Just make it a routine if you own a 98-2002 corolla.
@@aznnp77 good to know it’s a known issue . Thanks for sharing some good advice . I also have a 96 geo prizm with a 4afe that would burn oil I changed the pcv valve and replaced the valve cover gasket and that thing would just burn oil pretty bad but I always topped off and still own it I’ve owned it since 2012 such good engines besides that flaw.
@@garymijangos9403 Yeah, the engines and transmissions on that car are bulletproof pretty much. It's just everything else that starts to go after a while. It's annoying to have to put in oil all the time though. Especially if you live in a nicer neighborhood. That's why I go with the really thick oil so I only have to do it once a month.
That oil change, MMO really did some cleaning. That small sample you took in the bolt bin looks bad. That’s a good thing. MMO is a mild cleaner and won’t plug up the oil pick up screen.
A dry and wet compression test while cold will give you all the information to diagnose your oil consumption.
If it stays the same (pressure) as dry on wet it is upper end, if wet increases pressure it is the bottom end.
Take you valve cover off and look at the valve train condition.
That's exactly what I was thinking the valve guide seals might be going bad and if that's the case the MMO and seafoam aren't going to make much of a difference
Top dead center works even better if you pressure up the cylinder with an air hose. Good stuff.
Gotta hand it to you! You PERSEVERE!!! And I love your background music--Bossa Nova!!! BTW, KIRKLAND, Super Tech & Amazon oils are manufactured by Warren Oil C.
Doing a wet and dry compression test with the MMO in would have been very nice to see.
Brazilian Bossa Nova rhythm.
I have used MMO quite bit on my airplane. First, you need to realize that MMO is basically a 5 weight oil with phosphorus added for anti-wear. It is designed to blow through the rings and the valves to keep them clean not sticking. Therefore when there is MMO in the oil the oil consumption will always be higher. Second, I don;t think you know how much oil is getting burned and how much is leaking. I had a leaky front main oil seal in my 1997 Celica, which has pretty much the same engine as that Corolla, and it was leaking about a quart every 1000 miles when I took it apart to replace the seal, replace the water pump (as merely a precaution) and replace the timing belt. Finally, my 97 Celica is the only Toyota I have ever seen where the owner's manual states that Some Oil Consumption Is Normal.
I have a Pontiac Vibe which is the same as a Toyota Matrix. Or, so I was told. It also uses a lot of oil. The story is that Toyota reduced the ring pressure to get better fuel mileage. After several thousand miles the rings get very weak and allows oil to bypass.
How old is that car? I thought only in the past couple of years have they been reducing ring pressure because the MPG requirements are so hard.
I went through a lot of this on my Saturn. Exact same scenario where it would use a random amount. Turns out if I kept the engine under 2k rpms, it didn't burn hardly any oil.
the SL series was notorious for losing oil thru the coolant temp sensor. Might want to pull the sensor and see if it's covered in oil.
@@mikecooley3361 not really on the higher mileage Saturns you would see it smoke from the exhaust
The interesting thing is when I started to drive slow and low RPM with a high gas mileage my car started to eat oil. Maybe it is coeincidence, but seems for my 1NZ-FE an italian tune-up is a must have.
@@volodymyrzakolodyazhny 1nxfe engines burn oil from the factory on purpose for mpg efficiency
The oil ring has lower tensile strength... Replace it with a higher tensile strength oil ring and it will solve the oil consumption...
I have an xb1
If it was my car..I would substitute one quart of oil with a can of Engine Restore and see if that fixes the oil burning problem. I've used Engine Restore for many years on older engines and it really helps. Another product I use is Lucas Oil which I add at every oil change. But try the Engine Restore and see if it solves your oil burning isse.
Hi there, Claus from Sweden herr, use a 2001 Corolla as a daily driver to work.Used a lot of pil, still burns oil but not that much anymore!
My solution was a couple of oilchanges with good quality oil to flush THE engine, new oilchange with part synthetic 10w/40 and a new pcv-valve, the old was stucked!
Now i have to top it of once a month or every 2500 km with 1 liter instead as before once a week!!
My advice is a bit thicker oil and a pcv-valve check!!
Good luck!
Thanks for the tips, Claus!
The irregular oil burning can be caused by blow by and may worsen depending on fuel quality and harder driving conditions. Also, the PCV system working well factors into the amount of oil burning caused by blow by.
I would try some engine restore that's what I did after doing everything you've done and it's the only thing that really helped
Thanks, Bill. I think I might add that to the experiments.
RESTORE.
Like a miracle on 2 engines burning oil.
Noticable power increase in every engine I've tried it.
"mechanic in a can" 👍
Always use the large can regardless of engine.
@@hotrodray6802 do you have a link to the exact RESTORE product you are referring to?
Be very careful using engine restore with VVT engines
Another reason for high oil consumption could be a blocked positive crankcase ventilation valve. If this thing gets stuck, the crankcase cannot breathe, & it can pressurise the crankcase, thus causing high oil consumption. Replace the spark plugs while you're at it.
+1
2005 f150 4.6 250,000
Ate 7/8 quart per 3000 miles.
Cleaned PCV and ran way better and consumption is almost gone.
New PCV was $18 @ Ford dealer and takes 10 seconds to install
have you tried changing / cleaning your pcv valve? A stuck / gummed up pcv will cause oil issues as well.
This isn't a PCV issue on this engine
@@koreymayo8884 probably not, its worth a try though. The pcv is really easy to clean/change on these engines. He hasn't done it yet he will do it in the next video
@@jameshendrix8217 I've done it and it makes no difference
He laid mention PVC was ok ,it is bigger in nature within the top end parasitic defect ,was gonna try adding a extra vent to valve cover to see if it helps.🤔👍✌️💪🙏🤙😎
On this car it's clogged cylinder holes I believe. Only way to fix it is to take apart the engine. The PCV valve takes like 5 minutes to change cuz it's in the top of the engine bay but it doesn't do anything. You can make the oil thicker various ways to slow down the consumption, but you will be adding oil to the car indefinitely starting at around 100K miles or so.
Likely the PCV. The test might have been more decisive if that were changed after the MMO test?
I'm wondering why pcv valve would cause oil consumption but it's been mentioned in many places.
Sleeper.
Me too. PCV only sucks vaporized oil blowby out.
been doing this 60 yrs
@@hotrodray6802 because when one malfunctions, it forces blowby. Known issue for some engines, look up Ford 3.0 Duratec
@@hotrodray6802 some Toyota’s have the pcv in the middle of the block and not in the valve cover. And to make things worse the pcv is bolted in horizontally and not vertically so oil dosnt drain out and gets gummed up in pcv
Replace the PCV Value just to be sure! I agree.
Have you tried Restore CSL? It can help with sealing the cylinder walls and rings for tighter seal and is a good lubricant too.
We had great results with a single treatment of MMO in a large displacement air cooled engine. Cleared excess oil consumption up quickly and in a single treatment.
Try using 10/30 Non synthetic oil. I suggest Valvoline high mileage oil. Synthetic oil consumption is more than regular oil anyway.
Why is that???
@@153eddy it's a myth....
Not a myth; it's documented fact that in older engines, synthetic oil burns off quicker than conventional. Several theories exist, but nobody has found a definitive answer. The fact is that many people, after switching to synthetic, notice increased consumption only with synthetic oil, but not after switching back to conventional.
It could be that synthetic is burning off engine deposits, or that it's able to reach through worn piston rings that conventional oil can't penetrate. Or, it's leaking through seals that conventional oil has swelled shut, or it's escaping through the PVC system. Or, there's some kind of chemical reaction with synthetic oil interacting with carbon fouled galleys and valves, which makes it more volatile.
You get the idea. Nobody knows what causes it, but it happens, mainly on older engines that saw only/mostly conventional oil for its first 100k miles, and now has tried synthetic. If you decide to keep running synthetic, just keep the oil topped up. If you don't want the hassle of checking the oil at every fill up, just go back to conventional.
Interesting stuff. You might have already read this particular suggestion (so I apologize): using Techron with some normal/medium high concentration BUT NOT driving the car a lot, instead letting it sit more time than you drive it. Say if there are 400 miles in the tank you spread them across 1-1.5 months, instead of quickly burning through the gasoline. This has helped me with my 2015 Audi Q5. It still burns oil, of course! However, not at the 600-700 miles a quart, but at 1,300-1,500 miles a quart. Once even 1,888 miles/quart. I assume the Techron gets past the piston rings downward and helps soak them. With time - not with driving - it begins to have effect. But this needs to be repeated two times, and then new oil change (your oil is always new in this car I guess). Once the piston rings clog up again, the new cycle begins. 😕
To add the final touch, adding Gumout (which has PEA) into the oil crankcase will send the PEAs to piston rings from the bottom as well, for a few hundred miles - but give some time for the car to just sit parked so that they soak up.
Eresee4##÷\4
Check the plugs to see if any look especially oil fouled. Consider that it could be a valve stem leaking, or as others mentioned the PCV valve. In the case its a leaking valve stem or cylinders, you could try Restore. Also run MMO in the gas
PCV valve and valve stem seal videos coming soon, Taydrum! Also did a Motor Flush video and a cylinder scoping video if you missed them. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Just saw them today and I think its leaning towards valve stems. At this point I don't think the rings could still be stuck, unless they are totally broken. Cheers look forward to the next one!
@@Taydrum I think I saw a puff of smoke when I started it yesterday ... my confidence in the ring theory is waning :-\
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Sounds like valve stems to me! I'm very curious what will be next
You really need to add MMO to each cylinder, take out all spark plugs first the pour a few ounces into each cylinder. Turn engine over a few times. Pour in another few ounces into each cylinder. Wait overnight or 8 hours, repeat MMO treatment, make sure you turn engine over a few times with spark plugs out. Do it twice and it should get all carbon out of all the oil control rings. Install spark plugs and run engine for a hour or so on freeway. Not traffic. 😊
I have a 1978 Toyota Corolla SW equipped with the 3TC hemi pushrod 1.8L engine. With 140, 000 miles on it, oil consumption is about 1qt/1200 miles. I change the engine oil at 1500 miles with filter using conventional oil adding a qt of Rislone that I've been using for years. The engine is simple/reliable/durable and highly modifiable which is why I kept it for 33 yrs being the 2nd owner. They were simple cars of the day.
For sticking rings I've had good luck with Rislone.. If it's using oil due to worn rings and or polished piston bore.. I'd probably suggest a little heavier oil, or substitute a quart of oil with a quart of Lucas oil stabilizer.
Is that an oil or gas additive?
@@goldengirls0125 Oil additive.. they have the Lucas stabilizer for standard and synthetic oil.. Rislone engine treatment is an oil additive.. but both Lucas and Rislone make a gas additive for clogged fuel injectors.
I forgot what the video was about because I got drawn into dancing to the background music!
Lol
Seriously, good video.
I am a converted believer in Marvel mystery oil!!! I drive a 2012 Acura TL AWD with the 3.7 L engine. My car was burning just under a half a quart of oil every 1000 miles. If you do a quick Google search you’ll find that many of the 3.7 L Acuras have oil consumption problems due to carbon build up on the rings. Acura even issued a recall, but they won’t do the repair unless it exceeds a quart per 1000 miles. So at .45qt per 1000 mi., Acura told me to get lost! On a last hope I watched a couple of Marvel mystery oil videos. I tried it using the bottom up process. My car is now at 3000 miles on the trip counter and the oil is still at the top of the dipstick hash mark. MMO UNSTUCK THE RINGS IN MY ACURA!!!!!
That's great to hear, Gamita! Thanks for the comment!
@Gamita, do you continue to use the MMO solution? Or was it a one time thing and now back to regular oil?
@@seanofto I drove about 600 Mi with the MMO the first time then changed the oil. But no MMO in the crankcase now. I intend to put more in about 600 Mi. before the next oil change.
way too go bub
Hello there. I have a 2005 5.3L automatic 4x4 Yukon with 223,000 miles. It holds 6 qts of oil. I changed oil (10w30 conventional) and filter (walmart brand base filter) before a 6,500 mile mostly intestate trip from CO mountains to Mid-Atlantic to South and then back up to CO mountains.
In the first 4,000 miles of trip Yukon burned 1.75 quarts of oil. Before making the last 2,500 miles of trip (uphill to CO) I added .75 quart MMO (conventional formula) to bring level to Full.
It burned none in 2,500 miles to and around CO before I changed the oil/filter. So it went from burning 1.75 qts in 4,000 miles mostly downhill driving to not burning any in the next 2,500 miles of uphill and mountain driving.
On the trip I averaged between 16.8 and 18.1 mpg, checked by gallons and miles tracking and compared to vehicles MPG gauge. The computer was very close, always within .1 to .2 mpg.
Can someone explain this dynamic?
I'm going to test it again on another 3,500 mile road trip soon to South and back to CO again. If I have to add a quart I'm going to add 1 qt MMO to see if it stops the consumption again.
Peace!
Sounds like it might be valve-stem oil seals. I believe the let oil get sucked into the engine more with downhill driving.
When the rings stick...they start scoring the cylinder walls, scaping away material. This is a case of too-little, too-late. The oil blow-by cant be fixed at that point.
Oh yeah? Tell that to his berrymans video from last month
That's not true.
Lol .. Wrong
Really well structured and complete test. Thank You. Could be that the oil is going someplace else. It is surely not leaking as the bottom of the motor is spotless. Could be the PCV system, valve guide seals, blockage of the oil return holes in the head or ??? If the motor has ever been overheated it could be that the rings have lost their tension and become rubbery. If so, the only fix would be new rings. The list goes on and on including cylinder walls with too much taper from wear or worn ring lands on the pistons. Good luck and if you ever solve the issue please post the solution. That is a LOT of oil usage. The MMO probably did a great cleaning job for you.
I have the same car as you with 207k on it. For years I was burning 1/4 quart In 700 miles which made me angry. It took me a long time but I figured it out. My route is a highway drive through the mountains, I drive it 3x a month. Here's the cause, if I drive 65mph or less, I burn nothing. When I drive 80-85 I burn oil. This is posted speed limit 85mph in beaver Utah so no complaints please. Tachwise, its sustained over 3k rpm which burns oil. Are you driving fast or do you have the overdrive defeat turned on?? See if that helps, when I first figured it out I thought it couldn't be what I thought, nope.. thats it 100%. After seeing how much you're burning I feel really good, I no longer want to buy another car, you helped me Thank You!
Try Mercury power tune, I’ve used it on four stroke outboard motors with low compression and have seen huge improvements, I’ve also used on a mower that smoked and burnt oil badly and after a couple of treatments with power tune, it ran like new.
Even though I’m not real big into that motor flush, given your situation and my experience I would do it. Then do a short term flush after maybe 200 miles with cheaper oil then add good quality oil and Rislone to the engine. With your engine being a 4 cyl i’ve seen good results from Rislone when it was used at a dealership. I’ve used it once and liked it. Surprised MMO didn’t give more results. I have used it a lot in some of my MB’s with higher compression and i did see a noticeable difference in engine operation and fuel economy. I keep them tuned up well but it still made a positive difference. Best of luck.
Thanks, Randy!
I had a car like that. I use to go to the gas station and say fill the oil and check the gas.
:-)
My Chrysler 2.7L engine disclosed to me last year that it was losing oil. My first response was to treat it as a leak. I had experienced enough success with various "stop leak" products in the radiator and the A/C as to choose to begin my effort by adding stop-leak to the oil. That didn't work. The car has been used for long road trips this year of greater than 500 miles each. Two weeks ago the trip showed a loss of oil that required me to add about 12 oz of oil to reach "full". This weekend the trip showed no serious loss of oil. My suspicion is that the rings were stuck to the piston and the persistent high speed highway trips finally loosened them. I've also been measuring my fuel economy in this car. The most recent weekend trip also showed an improved fuel economy. Moving forward, I'll be using 20% MMO with each oil change.
Good info Jerome.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Hi Dave, March 18 I changed oil and filter. I used 100% Royal Purple 5W30. On March 21 the engine died. I'll soon get to the crankshaft bearings to see if that was the cause of the failure. I've since changed my mind on using MMO. I won't use it. The lower viscosity is too dangerous.
@@jeromebarry1741 Oh man. Hate it for you. Yeah, would love to hear the culprit when you get it figured out. Thanks!
You probably need new valve guide seals especially in the 2 cylinders that have low compression when cold. You also might want to change your pcv valve as well.
Thank God… someone that knows what he is talkimg about…
Thier really no way of tellin if youv got stuck rings or just a whole lotta wear. That's th reason that sometimes what he did with that marvil mystery oil l work and sometimes it wont
If the valve seals are worn, you’ll actually get a higher reading, as oil will leak into chambers, and help seal around rings,
It's your emissions / pcv system. Follow your Check Engine Light. Reduce to positive crankcase pressure and stop the excess blow by.
Exactly... Also wonder if he replaced those nasty spark plugs
@@jlbrown2622 nah!
IT's a complex issue, especially with Corolla's which are notorious for this issue. If you catch the stuck oil control ring issue early on and use a product such as MMO either in the crankcase or doing repeated top cylinder heat soaks, then there is a good chance you will be able to un-stick the oil control rings before there is significant piston sleve damage.
On the other hand the reverse holds true as well. If the issue has been ongoing for a long time, especially when the engine has hundreds of thousands of miles and no real effort made to correct the seized oil control rings during that time, then at that point the damage is done, it's no longer just the seized oil control rings but rather it's also the scaring that has occurred to the piston sleves which can vary quite a bit from one sleeve to another depending on how carbon built up around and underneath the individual seized oil control rings which in turn will determine how far out of seat that particular ring gets manipulated which in turn how much piston sleeve scarring will occur in that particular sleeve.
A contributing factor to that will be clogging piston oil return passages which can also be very random as far as which piston that will occur most or least on. 3 sleeves might suffer much less scarring if the piston oil return passages on the pistons in those sleeves were able to maintain at least a minimal amount of flow, whereas if one of the 4 pistons ends up with a clogged oil return passage then that particular sleeve will suffer significant metal scarring as there will be no barrier left between the sleeve wall and the slightly out of spec oil control ring that has been contorted due to carbon building up in the oil control ring seat, forcing it outwards beyond what it should be. That particular piston will then show a significant difference in compression versus the other 3.
So if you are at the point where significant sleeve scarring has occurred, even if you do manage to free up the seized oil control rings via additive, the oil consumption will not be halted due to the fact that the scarred up piston sleeves will no longer allow for a proper oil seal even though the oil control rings have been freed up.
That is most likely what is going on in this situation. Every time I've encountered this issue which does not respond to these measures, once that engine is disassembled the evidence is very clear as to why it was too late for that particular engine. The cylinder sleeve scarring was just too great even for a freed up oil control ring to be able to get a proper seal against.
Both Seafoam and MMO when used correctly can and do indeed free-up seized oil control rights, but neither Seafoam nor MMO can correct for scarred cylinder sleeve walls due to running an engine with seized oil control rings for many miles before a the problem is corrected.
Lots of good info. Thanks!
I doubt that sticking ring are the issue .
Toyota had a big recall because the oil recovery holes in the pistons were too small to begin with. They plugged with oil varnish. The fix is new pistons and rings . No reboring
Dave, great videos . Your experiments are done well.
Others have mentioned PCV valve / it’s cheap and easy to replace .
At this point, your #2 and #3 cylinder walls may be scored. I would use 20w-50 in South Carolina in all seasons but the very coldest of winter. I know a lot of guys would say no way, but why not? The engine is getting close to the end of its usable service life.
I applaud your efforts to keep the Corolla running. It’s a great car- wishing you good luck with it .
I would try also STP high mileage oil additive. It stopped oil consumption completely on my Ford f150 4.2l v6. It may take 2 bottles of STP.
I had a Corolla like that mine burned little oil but I used oil additives and it helped with the oil burning those are good little cars and oil at Walmart is cheap enough to keep topping it off . Great video by the way !
Thanks, Gary! Encouraging words.
considering the age and mileage in your car, you should be using a premium high mileage oil. appears you’re only using a pure synthetic. non high mileage oils in higher mileage vehicles will combust a lot more than high mileage oils, which will contribute to oil loss. i’ve tested this out myself and am experiencing good results. also, MMO should help eliminate rattling noises in your engine if you had any. I HIGHLY recommend you use an OIL STABILIZER to help eliminate oil loss, something else I do as well. lucas oil stabilizer or motor honey work really well. just add about 15% oil stabilizer, or about .8 quarts in place of standard oil in next oil change and you’ll notice a big difference.
So far, Marvel Mystery Oil has had the best results - less than half a quart gone in more than 300 miles.
Use the highest Flashpoint oil like pennzoil ultra platinum mixed with MOA oil treatment to reduce oil consumption assuming your pcv valve is working properly.
Hot oil is thinner, plus the MMO lowers viscosity. That’s making it past oil rings.
I had 78 chevy truck inline 6.using bardahl prevent burning oil.engine inside unclean, tiring engine from junkyard. Put engine in. When i pour in bardahl help cleansing it increase up 200 more miles.warn you it will coming great big white smoke if cloud. Every stop at gas fill with 5vquart of oils everytime.i had this truck with 4vwheelers forv6 months.its toughest tiring truck even tired transmission still good running truck.
That poor dipstick is getting a work out.😁
That it is.
So is that hood latch 😳
🤣 agree
Try adding in some STP with bars stop leak additives into the motor oil. It helps with the oil burning issues your having.
I've had good luck with an oil burning Corolla doing several soaks with an ATF, Varsol, Kerosene, Acetone mix in equal parts. It's referred to as" Ed's Red" in the firearms community and is used in cleaning bore deposits etc.
I have a 2003 Toyota Matrix about to roll 300k, it’s been using about a about a 1/2 quart every 600 miles or so. I’ve used sea foam high mileage in the oil for about 600 miles and oil consumption has drastically been reduced. Will try MMO next for an entire OCI next. Also, there was a TSB put out several years ago increasing the oil capacity to 4.5 quarts on the 1zz fe engine. Never got the updated dip stick but I always fill it about 1/2 inch above the second dot.
Thanks for that info, J! I've been hearing lots of good stuff about the Seafoam, especially when using it longer. I might need to try it again.
At 4.4 quarts I marked the old dipstick
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY call seafoam tech, good guys
I am using this in my gas religiously. And exactly by the recommendations too much or too little not good. Your experiment would give you even better results you're doing this too
I use MMO in my engine only as a safe flush solution. Because the viscosity is lost when you add whole MMO quart. Also since its deep cleaning all the sludge and carbon it will be black for sure when draining and you will lose power due to this slow flush. You did clean it out well throughout the video 😎👌 hopefully some oil stabilizer or some anti friction additives help. Obviously people are gonna say is get a new engine lol but to his or her own.
MMO did a great job of cleaning by looking at his oil change.
great video,i like the way you did this. I have a 94 Honda civic 4 cly.bought it new.AT 500,000 it ran hot on me,and started burning oil,1 quart every 250 miles.This i let go for 2 months then decided to do water pump head gasket and rings. when i took out the pistons i found the compression rings where free,but the oil control were gummed up,i took them off,THEN i noticed the OIL RETURN HOLES WERE COMPLETELY CLOGGED UP all 6 on every piston.I was shocked,i cleaned them out by hand with a drill bit,flex honed the cylinders and PUT BACK IN STOCK sized rings.3,000 miles later at the oil change it was 1/2 quart down,it now has 540,000 miles and only uses 1/2 qt every 3,000 miles.IT was pumping oil after it got hot .original block and head,and bearings.even had some cly crosshatch pattern left in it when i honed it ,amazing.motor.
Great story Roberto.
Try Berryman b12 chemtool next! Take out spark plugs and do an overnight piston soak and make a video of it!
Absolutely. Then, blow it out good. Then, change the oil. ACDelco GM Original Equipment Engine Cylinder/Combustion Chamber Cleaner is recommended by many, but B12 will clean the upper cylinder. Berryman also sells 2611 Intake Valve and Combustion Chamber Cleaner. These last two are spendy. If you annually soaked the upper cylinder with MMO thereafter that might be good enough. You might want to use a threaded spark plug thread air compressor adaptor to blow out the MMO. If the liquid doesn't go down under a little pressure the rings are probably still dirty.
The combustion chambers and upper cylinders of flatheads were recommended to be cleaned every year or so - few owners did. The motor oils weren't very good. Because the exhaust valves are in the block close to the upper part of the piston the oil would get gummed and eventually turn to carbon. That era fortunately passed but the late model engines get hotter and the tolerances are tighter. Avoid extended oil changes.
He did that with seafoam
Dave my name is Mike.I really enjoyed watching your video it was a great experiment.thanks for your hard work in making this...I am extremely familiar with your problem... you are a victim of Toyota not manning up to a factory problem they had in the 1zz engine family.toyota used low tension rings on these engines to minimize friction and therefore reduce drag on the engine resulting in increasing fuel economy... unfortunately the rings were a little too low tension and it resulted in oil blow by... unfortunately the only way you will eliminate the problem is to pull the motor and change the f@#king rings...it's a common well known problem and you did nothing wrong this is a factory defect that Toyota will not acknowledge..
Used in the GM equivalent too.
Not to mention the oil return holes were undersized..
Remember that when you're going uphill more often, you're loading the engine and you have more vacuumed and that makes you use more through the PCV system. I think you may be missing at least part of the culprit here.
Marvel Mystery Oil you only need to use about a week before you're going to change the oil. Tends to work more than well enough. A quart of transmission fluid for that last week before you change oil would also work well
I also tried Marvel Mystery Oil on my 03 Corolla. Ended up having to replace the valve cover gasket, as it must have loosened gunk blocking leaks around the gasket. 😲
Your editing is on point. Good stuff.
I appreciate it!
Weird I don't see a date on this video, which I've ever not seen before. But I have a 2000 Prizm, which is a rebadged Corolla. I believe that oil burn is from clogged cylinder holes or something. The only way to fix it is to take it all apart and drill the holes or something. But to answer some of your questions, the car burns more oil at highway speeds than driving locally. Mine was burning a quart every 2 weeks or so. Maybe 400-500 miles. That's when I was using the cheap Supertech 5w-30 conventional. I've since switched over to Shell Rotella T4 15w-40 and it burns about a quart a month now (I used to use Rotella T6 5W-40 but this stuff is cheapter and works the same). It's diesel oil so it's more durable. Only have to fill up once a month now. I usually keep mine about a quart overfilled just in a case I forget to do it.
I noticed in my car that if you drive more aggressively the oil consumption goes up so you must keep this in mind when doing tests to keep it controlled.
I've added transmission fluids, gear oil (just 1 qt), vegetable oil, power steering fluid, and even brske fluid to my oil crankcase before in emergencies and drove it thousands of miles before changing. Didn't seem to have any negative affects.
Valve stem seals along with worn compression and oil control rings
Some Chevy LS motors consume oil as well and a solution was to drill 4 holes on the oil ring piston groove... If all else fails I would suggest trying that out if its possible... Love your show
Thanks! and something like that might be in the future ... we'll see.
Ad a oil catch can. It will help. I have a Chevy 3.6 and the pcv is terrible on these cars. The oil catch can really helped.
this engine have holes in the piston groove for that, problem is the holes are too small on the early version of the engine. they revised it on 00 models
Try LUCAS OIL TREATMENT and heavier oil.. with that many miles I would go 10w40 or 20w50 and Lucas fuel treatment with upper cylinder lubricant
no to heavier oil. We did that in the 60's. Todays engines run tighter tolerances.
Thicker oil won't fix the poor piston design in these engines and neither will lucas oil treatment, but that stuff is good for valve stem seals in other cars
Marvel is great stuff, but it won't fix wore out or broken parts. You may have bad rings and or seals that need replaced.
Need to consider the viscosity. Worn engines will burn more oil, the thinner the oil is. I personally would not be using full synthetic if your going through that much oil. You will burn more and your wallet will get lighter too. Your oil never gets a chance to get dirty or over used to a breakdown point, so using synthetic for longer life is a waste. Try regular flavor Penzoil and I bet your compression will come back a bit.
The effort you take is the thing that amazes me you are amazing brother
MMO in my opinion is more effective mixed in the gas tank not the oil and safer because your not messing with the viscosity of the oil. I would also use 10W-30 seeing as you live in a warm climate. I have noticed that I get 1-3 MPG more when I put it in my gas tank you just have to be careful not to over do it and every so often go through a tank without putting any in. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the info!
I have a low miles 45 k of the Toyota oil burning 4 cylinder engine. It doesn’t burn oil but would u add to gas as a preventative to the future oil sludge on piston ring problem or just change oil every 3 k miles ?
I Had chevy cavalier burned a little oil pulling a 5x8 trailer. At just over 200k a GM tech told me to use Rotella 15 40 diesel oil. It greatly reduced oil consumption. Engine was still running strong at over 330k. Im also from SC
Use the chemical Engine Restorer by Restore. It is sold in most auto parts. Also, buy a new PCV. On your last video you only sprayed it, if you are going to reuse it, should leave it in parts cleaner for a few hours. It is easier, and cheap enough to replace. PCV are a check valve that needs to operate smoothly. You can try heavier oil, probably 15w-40 Shell Rotella.
also as a side note synthetic oil has a high consumption rate which is normal and a side effect of using it. 1 qt of oil per 3000 miles on a 6qt system is normal ..spirited driving is possibly double. this is NORMAL for synthetic oil ..use regular oil when diagnosing oil consumption to rule out. This info was obtained by me from a long discussion with a mobil one engineer about 18 years ago.
I believe Your motor is in stage 3 of
oil consumption. ( if so , nothing You
add to the motor will remedy the problem )
Watch " The car care nut " . He does
a series about Toyotas that burn oil .
I also would like to point out that Marvel Mystery Oil will clean the inside of the engine better than almost anything you can put in it. They've been battling that since 1923. It is high in phosphorus and phosphorus is a very good cleaner. But it doesn't have a seal conditioner. So every once in awhile you can actually put a quart of transmission fluid in it to make sure that all the seals get condition quite well. That's another old-school trick. But don't forget to put an oil catch can on it. Preferably with a drain
Marvel Mystery Oil is used as a cleaner/solvent to remove sludge and build up inside engines.
Even though it claims to make the car quieter it comes with sluggish performance due to the cleaning while its doing its new oil cycle.
Meaning you can add MMO every cycle to safely do an engine flush without realizing it. But as far as I know about those corollas they have piston ring issues.
Oil stabilizer can do only so much the car was essentially working harder because of all the old oil coming off during its cleanup with MMO thus burning oil long distance. Just my 2 cents.
One explanation for difference on long trip may be the gas you filled up with. Gas is thicker (better) in morning or cooler weather. Less evaporation if you fill tank slowly and at ½ tank. Never fill when the trucker is depositing into tanks due to stirring up sediment. You moght look into a one tank laquer thinner in gas run through. Also helps to clean cat.
Had a ‘00 prism with that motor and a 3 spd auto. Used 1 qt every 75 miles in 55mph daily driving. Ran absolutely perfect. Turned out to be a convenient way to use the many jugs of used motor oil that I had sitting around.
Whoa. I don't feel so bad now... Thanks for the comment J!
Wow, sounds like you should fuel it with 2-cycle mix. I've never heard of a car being such a bad oil crackhead.
USED motor oil in an engine DESTROYS it. My dad told me to do that when I was young and knew nothing. Destroyed a good V-8. Pour the used motor oil over the entire car and yourself. Light it. That's REALLY good for both you and your car. Or maybe not.
Maybe you should try using a good quality high mileage oil instead of the cheap Wal-Mart oil and make a video for comparison, I'm curious if that would be any better.
I use a bottle of the blue STP oil treatment and 5oz of Motorkote with my Supertech Full Synthetic oil every oil change. I have 190,000 miles and have used it since new. I gave the engine 20,000 miles to break in. I change the oil at 10,000 mile intervals and it doesn't use any oil to speak of between oil changes. It actually made my engine quieter than when new. My daughter has a 94 Corolla and went 13,000 miles on her oil change and needed 1/2 a quart of Supertech Full Synthetic before coming back to Michigan from Kansas. Dad changes the oil not her. I alway use the Cheap Supertech oil filters because your oil filter is there to catch the big stuff. Oil bypasses the filter when cold until it gets thin enough to flow through the filter. I have used the cheap no name filters for 30 years, most are made by Purolator. Stay away from Fram they are poorly made and quality control is crap.
Try using 10w30 instead. I have a 2001 corolla with 201565 miles had the same problem using 10w30 helped a lot.
Thanks for the advice, Roberto. I might do that ... but I just bought a couple of new jugs of 5w30 I've got to burn through first :-)
Oil specs on quality and heat rating might help too running 185 t stat wonder if cooler stat in south west desert might help.🤔✌️👍💪😔
@@milotorres6894 my theary dav.s 1zz rings are worn broken from clogg @ sludge new piston@ ring will and or head lik new again
Use thicker oil ,that 5w20 / 5w30 is thin for for hot climate and heavier oil on a high miles engine it totally fine
really u never owned a corolla im sure that was good on stuud ramler vega corvair
I use Lucas fuel treatment in a bmw that is know for sucking oil rings. This advice was from a well known bmw guru. Oil consumption improved from 1 qt every 1500 miles to a more normal 6000 miles. I now use it in all my cars .
You mean Lucas upper cylinder lubricant and injector cleaner ?
@@1.9tdilove71 yes!
had a similar problem , my car was losing about 1qt every mnth or so ( not as bad as yours) i also had low comp on 3 cylinders (tested cold) its a v6 so 3cyl wrre @ 175 and 3 were@ 75, ....100psi diff, adding spoon of oil to low cylinders brought them up to 175,..after dismantiling engine i found oil control rings completely clogged with carbon on 3 pistons due to oil drain back holes in piston being clogged , these 3 cylinders were burning oil due to no functioning oil control ring, compression rings were not stuck or broken, i cannot explain the low compression, only guess that maybe burning oil long period of time caused some carbon coating of cylinder walls possibly causeing compression rings not to seal well, idk
Interesting. Thanks for the comment, numbre nine. I might end up dissecting this one too if all the "snake oils" don't work.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY the oil drain back holes were extremely small, 1.5mm, (4 on each piston) i had to use oxy torch tip cleaner tool to poke out the carbon,..before reassembling engine i drilled them all out to 1/8"
In case I end up doing this ... did you clean and reuse the rings? or did you get new rings and hone the cylinders?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY cleaned pistons in berrymans chem dip, bought new rings, new rod bearings, checked cylinders with bore gauge, honed them with ball hone
@@numbrenine9414 Good info. Thanks!
I miss my 1992 Toyota Corolla DX (sold in 2014 after 198K + miles). Thanks for sharing.