Marvel Mystery Oil - Silly Old School Snake Oil, Or Can This Stuff Actually Work
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 12 ธ.ค. 2023
- It's the original "Mechanic In A Can" and for the last hundred years, the real mystery has been what's in this stuff and can it actually do any of the things it claims to do?
Here's a quick look at it's history, intended original use, what was discovered during a NTSB plane crash investigation, and how in certain circumstances it can actually live up to SOME of the claims it makes on the label.
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In summary, Marvel Mystery Oil is good at removing gum and varnish, in the fuel system and in the crankcase. It will also soften rubber seals. Good to know!
Thanks for summarizing what UT already “summarized.”
@@vinnyvette6028 Yeah but in case you don’t want to watch the whole video
@@vinnyvette6028 don't be snarky..
And apparently treat rickets. Who knew 🤷🏻♂️
And you know this how, exactly?
This stuff in your air tools is basically an air freshener for the shop.
Thank you for that comment. My Grandfather used to do that and you just reminded me of that smell in his shop which I haven't smelled in any other shop for probably 40 years.
@@grandmasmalibu Yep. Marvel Mystery Oil and Hoppes No. 9 are some of the best scents. When I was a teen in the late 80’s I worked at a Chevron station with a 3 bay shop. Every night we’d mop the place and put a few capfuls of some kind of degreaser in the water. It smelled so awesome in there.
@@WalkerSmallEnginePerformance shit mmo would make a nice smelling gun oil
@@juliogonzo2718 If you mean pewpew guns, it's not recommended. it will ruin the finish and wreck wood furniture. Balistol is best for those.
Just squirt bacon grease into shop tools , everyone will get hungry
In 1984 a Buddy of mine acquired an L88 that was locked up from sitting ten years. Three bottles, about 8 oz's per cylinder, down the spark plug holes. After a couple of days The MMO was showing up in the oil pan drain bucket. Once we moved it back and forth about an inch it broke free. Fresh oil and fresh gas was all it took to revive an Awesome Engine.
Some Old Guy Told Us exactly what to do. Old Guys Rule! Works well on Motorcycles too. 😎
1165 GTO with a noisy lifter my next door neighbor in his 80s came over and said I'm working on it
Hip see
A friend of mine restored old cars. He bought a LaSalle that was sitting for years. MMO in the cylinders for a few days. Broke the engine free. He fixed the carb, put in some fresh gas, pushed it down the driveway & it started!
I put some in my gas in my 96 Ford 351 to keep the valves from sticking because it doesn't get driven often. I sat the cap on my cruddy old running board and wiped it off of the aluminum about 15 minutes later. It shined like I'd spent hours buffing them out.
I'm bringing home a 63 Tempest that's literally been in a barn since the '70's. I pulled the plugs and added MMO a couple weeks ago. I'm hoping it works it's magic and will free up the engine.
I was told to do the same on an old GTO. Good advice.
I have a unique use for MMO. Couple years ago I was working on a Jag 3.0 liter supercharged engine. Had to remove the super charger to replace some coolant pipes and also had to remove the oil filter assembly for a simple gasket replacement. While removing "the simple" oil filter assembly, a torx bit fell off my driver and fell into the oil galleys. 2 holes it could have fallen into. One would have been ok, as it would just push the bit into the filter, but the other would be certain catastrophe. So had to find it. Got out my boroscope to find it, but all the black oil in various puddles made it impossible find. I used MMO to displace that old, dark oil, found the G damn bit and after a couple hours with a magnet, finally got that thing out. It was a nightmare because if I didn't get it out, i was going to have to pull the engine and flip it on an engine stand. Tons of work. MMO saved me from an aweful fate.
I was a skeptic for years - until as a last gasp effort years ago, I tried it on a 318 magnum in a Dodge pickup
that had been overheated to the point of clacking valvetrain. I repaired the cooling issues, then...
To my amazement, once I dumped a bottle in the engine and just let it sit and idle, all the clattering eventually
went away and the engine ran like new!
I'll never doubt it again - properly used, the stuff is not snake oil.
- Ed on the Ridge
It has helped unstick lifters as well
I had a C6 with stuck shift valves in the valve body. As a hail Mary before pulling the pan and cleaning the valve body ( which I absolutely did not want to do ) I dumped a bottle in. After about an hour of driving around the block, things freed up and started shifting. I'm sure the neighbors thought I was nuts.
I Immediately changed the fluid, as I had tried this a couple years earlier on a high mileage trans, and all those old, hard seals and o-rings turned to mush.
This time I got away with it.
@@JFSmith-nb8hf When I was a mechanic in the Great war (WW1) we used to call those thingies "radial" engines.
Why is marvel oil and dodge just like peas and carrots 😂 I had the same truck but had a bad misfire and dump a bottle in the tank and the engine and she was great I'll die on this shit being the secret sauce😂
Bananas do that too! lol
A few years ago I started putting a little into my morning coffee and I find I am much more regular now throughout the day. Seriously though, I add it to both gas and oil and I've noticed a net positive performance difference when doing so.
Must be the wintergreen oil that's in it, as its purpose was to make it smell better as i guess without it,its pretty nasty.
It's all those little mechanics inside you pushing all that shit around
I soak my cigarettes in it so they will stay lit. Also gives them a clove flavor. Just kidding...don't do this...ever.
@@Freedomquest08 haha yeah I've gotten a splash or spot of it on a ciggy before, tastes like 💩😀
Any oil for that matter
I was wasted one night on my back porch and remembered my dad's gf brought over liqour the other night and stuck it in my cabinet thing back there. Opened up the cabinet, poured what I thought was about a shot in my cup (it was pitch dark out) Slammed it down. Not only was it a full mouth full, I immediately after swallowing realized that was kerosine. It definitely made me shit everywhere in the morning.
100 years of sales usually means it works.
Or on shelves to sell at local store. Petroleum is all it is
Yes it is 100% petroleum based. For oil and fuel additives, that’s what you want.
not necessarily..... "LOCK EASE" has been around since I was a kid.... WORST stuff you can put in a lock, aside from powdered graphite.
@@citylockapolytechnikeyllcc7936 Read the fine print on the lock ease label and you'll learn how you've used it wrong. .
Bro not even 😂😂
Ive always used this. I have a 2003 F150 5.4 and have used MMO for years, in the gas and crankcase. 417,000 miles, runs perfectly, original powertrain. I don't believe that it would still be selling after 100 years if it didn't do some good.
I have found a perfect use for Marvel Mystery oil. Fuel tank and carb corrosion has always been a problem on motorcycles. The jets are really small and easily clog. If you run an ounce or two of Marvel oil in the gas tank every fill up, the tank never rusts, the carbs never corrode, and the jets never plug. I rode the same ZG1000 Kawasaki for 15 years and never worked on the carbs. Even after winter storage, the bike started and idled smoothly.
This works using any oil that doesn't putrify. Any automotive fluid, any synthetic oil
I bought a 2000 zg1000 back in January, love the bike!
@@mikem5475 Perhaps, but, do they have any lard?
I've had similar results. I use it in all my small engines and run non ethanol gas. I don't have the fuel system problems all my friends and family do.
@@badad0166 the lard is a hold over from the 30s and prior to the chemical soup that abounds in today's world it was a very common lubricant and served as protective film post work for machinist to use mixed kerosene depending on the metal. I have known some old machinist who claimed that its actually as good or better than the modern equivalent in many ways. According to them the main benefits of the modern cutting fluid was smell after it aged a while in the heat of the summer.
It works.. I wasn't always the best about regular oil changes in a 3.8L Ford. Started blowing blue smoke during acceleration. A local shop told me it needed an overhaul or replacement long block..old timer, performance guy looked at it, took it for a rip and recommended I dump a qt of Myst oil in the crankcase (after draining a qt of oil). I drove it hard for week before changing the oil..never blew smoke again! Still going too!
I bought a Craftsman 1 horse electric air compressor in 1980. I ran it for a month or so and drained the oil from the pump. I put Marvel Mystery Oil in the pump and it has had NO other oil in it ever since. I have changed the belt several times and the bearings in the motor once but it still pumps up as fast as ever. and as @chuckwalker says it smells great! I ran it every day framing houses for at least 20 years running 2 nail guns. 43 years old now!
That sounds like a great idea. Especially in the winter when it gets cold in my shop. Some mornings the oil is so thick it trips my breaker when the pump kicks on. I’m gonna give it a shot
A fellow I used to go to training at his facility bought thousands of fuel injectors in the 80's and 90's tested, cleaned set matched them and resold. He found that "Marvel Mystery oil" worked hands down better than anything else as a preservative in Injectors on the shelf.
A few years back when I started getting into old motorcycles, I came across one that had been sitting for almost 50 years. An old timer recommended removing the plugs and spraying some of that marvel mystery oil into the cylinders and letting it sit for a couple days before trying to turn it over. If it helped or not I’m not sure, but it did start relatively easy. I’ll always listen to the advice from old school guys 👏
ATF does the same thing....
I bought my 1st bike about 30 years ago,a 73 Honda cb500. My mechanic told me to add a little mystery oil to the gas due to the fact that has no longer has lead in it. Couldn't tell you if the mystery oil worked with the gas, but I always used it in that bike
What's too old for a motorcycle...I am 70 and have a dirt bike ,a naked bike and sport bike !
@@Flies2FLL yep I used ATF to free up the stuck valve train on my 69 cb160. Poured it in the cylinder and valve adjustment holes.
@@marktarascio4766 I've ridden with guys in their 70s on dirt bikes and they're often faster or just as fast as myself at after their age.
Used MMO in my '89 Honda. Added a quart to every oil change. Car ran great for 23 years and 336,000 miles. Had to replace the rotting oil pan at about 250k miles. The mechanic was astonished that the inside of the pan looked brand new.
Do you use it as an additive (with new oil), or flush (before you change the oil)?
I run a QT with 5 QT of oil every time now
@@christopherconard2831substitute 1 quart MMO for 1 quart oil at oil change time. Follow directions on bottle for fuel system. Keeps your fuel pump(s) running strong. Been using MMO since 1981
Lots of honda engines will do that with poor care, lol
@@Mac-mu9csExactly
My 94 -1/2 year old Father still swears by this stuff & turned me into a believer at age 16 when I got my first car , a used ‘65 Corvair Monza 2 dr with 4 speed/110hp engine . I’m now 63-1/2 & use it in all my vehicles just as he taught me . Does indeed do what it promises. 😎👍
Had the pleasure of owning a few Monza coupes, and one ragtop, all late bodies. Most memorable was in Santa Fe, buying Vivian Vance's old beige, '66 Monza; and later using her engine to complete a purple, '66 'Vert. She played Ethyl on I Love Lucy, and lived in Santa Fe for many years. Who knew Ethyl drove Corvairs? I didn't, until I saw her name on the very old title.
I miss the old metal cans Marvel Mystery Oil was in. 🎉
I used MMO in my 1979 Electra Glide FLH King of the Highway full dresser Shovelhead.
Previous owner used it.
So I just kept using it.
No worries.
I still have my can of air oil with the pour tip.
Somehow , even 50 years later, anything else just feels wrong…
I volunteered at Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome 20+ years ago. The founder, Cole Palen, used to use MMO to unstick locked up WW1 rotary engines. He would mount the engine on a stand and pour MMO in the cylinders then hang a 5 gallon pale of dirt on one end of the prop. Eventually it would pull through.
Good to see a fellow upstate new Yorker on here
@@undergroundironentertainment Yep. Been in VA last 20 years though. Born and raised in Columbia County
How much did that 5lb pail of dirt weigh?
Just a coupl'a drops on yer tooth brush L' make yer coffee stained Chicklets bright white 😂
I can see that as plausible. Old rotary radials were usually lubed with castor oil. Castor oil is subject to polymerization, it gets sticky, gummy and hard the longer it sits. Dealt with that a lot restoring old model airplane engines. MMO isn't the only product that works for desolving that stuff but it's a good option! Kinda like its wintergreen scent too.
My uncle turned me on to that stuff 30 years ago. I always have some bottles kicking around. I'll add some to my gas every couple, 3,4 tank fills and I add a bottle to my oil a few hundred miles before a change
I believe that Project Farm used Lard as a lubricant in a lawnmower engine. He found it to be a high pressure lubricant, burns clean and leaves your combustion chambers clean. I find it best for cooking corn tortillas for use in tacos. Good stuff, either way!
Hmmm. I don't have any lard, but I do have Marvel mystery oil. I'll have to use it to cook some tortillas soon.
Crisco, a vegetable shortening, was first used to lubricate impeller shaft(s) for submarines.
@@gpilsitz1783Seed oils were originally industrial lubricants. Now we eat them. I personally do my best to minimize their intake.
The best pie crusts use lard too!
Thanks Tony for a Common Sense commentary. As a retired mechanic that keeps his vehicles until they are "old enough to vote" I have always used this in my fuel, For all the reasons you stated. Back in the old days Fuel was really crappy and unpredictable. I always said I paid off my first Mortgage rebuilding carburators. And it was due to poor Quality fuel. I advised my customers to use MMO as I did after I fixed their cars. Fast forward to now IMHO Ethanol is a terrible additive to fuel. I know this triggers the Ethanol industry. But in it of itself it is Corrosive to fuel componants and does not provide Lubricity and it is worse when moisture comes into play. With GDI this becomes an even bigger and more expensive issue.I have always used MMO at 4oz. per 10 Gallons of fuel in older vehicles and in my newer ones. Very cheap preventive maintenance. Keep on Wrenchin.
@ stevecampbell7620-- I enjoyed reading your comment. I also usually keep my vehicles until they are "old enough to vote." My current daily driver is a 2002 Lincoln Town Car that I bought in 2007, that now has 124k miles on it.
For the past 8 years, I have added 4 ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil for every 10 gallons of gas at every fill up. The car is still running great, and I plan on keeping it many more years. Hopefully the MMO is helping to combat the negative effects of the ethanol that is unfortunately added to the gas.
I have had some people tell me that MMO was good for vehicles with carburetors, but not good for modern vehicles. I disagree with them. Are there any types of vehicles that you would not add MMO to the gas?
I’ve been using MM oil for 50 years and I can confirm it works miracles at times. My 08 Volvo T6 had ticking noises and was very concerning so I added it to the oil and the rest to the tank and now no more noises at all
GOD BLESS
How much did you put in the engine oil. Volvo fan
@@jameswalsh7204My 3.2 volvo (xc70) holds 8qts.. i often put in at least a quart. Stopped my oil consumption full stop 👍
Sea Foam is the other in engine or through fuel system treatment. I used Mystery oil in my 52 chevy 235ci engine to unstick it. It worked.
Used it for DECADES and all I can say is IT WORKS!
Example: I have a 2015 Cub Cadet XT-1 riding mower with over 500 hours on it. I have used Marvel since day one and the thing runs like brand new!
Was having some valve problems with my 1972 Newport Royal 2 door with a 400 engine. I put this stuff down the carb when running until it choked out. Let it sit overnight. Started it back up the next day & NO more valve problems. Car ran like brand new. Love to have another car like it. They're great. Good explanations on what Mystery Oil is & what it does on different engine parts. We also used it in air tools at the shop.
Lard is a heavy lubricant. Lard was used grease wheels on wagons back in the day. It keeps everything stabilized. It takes a long time to break down. It's also resilient to heat.
I work for a major airline and we use chicken fat in our sunnen hone for parts of the landing gears.
In a Monty Python sketch, Terry Jones was rubbing a little lard on the cats boil.
Lard also makes fried chicken taste like really good chicken
It's also good at keeping pigs warm on cold nights....
@@williamstamper442try frying a turkey in it
A company that used to repair mechanical adding machines would soak the mechanisms in marvel to dissolve grime and lubricate parts.
One of mystery oil's best part is the smell. Both very distinctive, and welcoming! Kinda smells like those little round pink mints, you find in farm co-op stores.
Peppermint oil. It’s a very good solvent in small doses. In large amounts, it’ll melt rubber and eat paint.
@@5roundsrapid263Close, wintergreen oil.
wintergreen
The only mystery to me is the amount of knowledge crammed in Tony's head. He should be checked for a USB port so we could download his data library.
Show some respect ... he's *Uncle* Tony 😂
Knowledge is one the best things we can pass on.
None of us will live on this earth forever, but our knowledge can, if we share it.
I always add a little to my oil about 500 miles before an oil change and I regularly use it in my gasoline.
Back in the day when I was rebuilding a lot of Mazda rotary engines, I would add a full bottle to the engine oil and run it for a good hour before teardown. There was usually a problem getting the side seals loose from the rotor. Those are the equivalent to compression rings. Marvel would loosen the carbon and make the side seals possible to remove. I still keep it around the shop for getting carboned up stuff clean.
I have used many times with no problem. To loosing up valves and clean carbs, I have used automatic transmission fluid. My 68 Mustang sat in a barn for 10 years, I trailered it home, change the battery, coolant, plugs, and points. Used automatic transmission in the new oil and gas. Started up and drive.
This comment section is a good one Tony!
The subject matter has brought out the best in this crew that follows your channel.
Got a quick story related to petroleum based products and human consumption...
If anybody is familiar with the brand Nehi, it is popular in the mountains of eastern Kentucky and therefore i believe its made there. (Ill look it up and see and this when i know for sure). One of the all time favorites of many was the Peach Nehi pop in a clear glass bottle.
Dang it tasted so good on a hot summer day in the mountains...
Stopping half way up the holler at the old Arizon'y store, open up and reach down in the classic coca-cola 1940s cooler where you slide the top lid and reach down and grab a Nehi Peach bottle...Now Those were the days!
Anyway....
Before my time dad said they were working on his old pontiac. On the bumper sat a clear Nehi glass bottle... but it didn't have Peach pop in it! It was full of gasoline. Well, one young feller named Michael Joe, later 6 foot 10 when grown, was only 5 foot something as a young boy, was playing with the rest, come running up and seen that glass bottle thought it was Peach Nehi...he turned it up and took a big drink of straight gasoline!!
He got sick as a dog, throwing up and burning...whole family dropped what they were doing and run mike to the hospital. That was no small chore back then as it was a 40 minute ride on a two lane road into town, Whitesburg, where the hospital was. They pumped his stomach and treated him and thankfully the boy didnt get hurt.
Remember, this boy grew up to be almost 7 foot tall. And he drove a Pepsi truck for years till retirement, bit everybody there at Pepsi liked him so much they didnt let him retire, they gave him a job in management and advertising! He worked many years doing that gig, flying all over the world and all that stuff!
During covid in 2021 we lost this good feller way too soon.
Rest in Peace Big Mike!
I wanted to give you a big Thank you. I was considering buying a 92 XJ with a very loud knocking noise. The price was right but I was uncertain about the noise. After watching a few of your XJ videos I dove in head first. Turned out to be loose torque converter bolts. A few turns of a wrench and the 142k motor is ready for more. Thank you.
That 4.0 will run forever. I had a 98. Best vehicle I ever owned, minus the stupid rear drum brakes and leaf springs. If you modernize the rear end, you have a forever vehicle.
All I can add is when I bought my 71 Charger the fuel gauge didn't work. Wasn't sure what the problem was, by chance I put some Marvels in the gas and the gauge miraculously started working. Once I stopped using Marvels the gauge stopped as well. I put the car in storage for the winter and the following year added Marvels and the gauge came back to life. No BS
Gonna try that in my 83 scottsdale tank. Gauge is stuck for 10 years.
Used it last week and signal lights started working, but now my rear right window regulator quit, and my oil pressure sending unit is intermittent:)
@@douglashewitt5064 I dumped a bunch of it in the gas and it didn't take to long for my gauge to come back. I don't think it can hurt.
@@Guns_N_Gears It may be a mystery, but I don't see it doing much for your electrical system ;)
@@archieguitarz4700 lol
I use it in my grain truck gas tank because it burns like 4 or 5 tanks of gas in a row then it sits for a year. It seems to work well preventing corrosion in the fuel system.
Another additive in MMO is oil of spearmint, also used in Kroil penetrating oil. It's part of what gives MMO that strong scent. It's one of the best penetrants and adds to the oil's use to free stuck parts. I've added MMO to customer's fuel when doing bike services, just to make the engine feel a little better when they pick it up, also have had customers use it to free sticky rings on bikes that got used for too many short trips. It's great stuff and causes no harm. Though they're pretty old, you can still find MMO top cylinder bleeders that attach to the intake, and if you look at old cars, sometimes you see one bolted to the firewall.
I have been to some car shows and have seen the MMO Inverse Oiler mounted to the firewall. There was a line going from the inverse oiler to a area between the bottom of the carburetor and the intake manifold.
Since I add 4 ounces of MMO to the gas every time I fill up, I am probably doing about the same thing as the inverse oiler was doing.
Methyl salicylate?
Close on the smell, it's actually wintergreen
It’s the only additive I use! Add to oil about 500 miles before changing every 6 changes. Add to gas before winter. From rockers to oil pan things stay clean. My 90 spirit has well over 700K on it. Other vehicles 300K to 500K.
You have a 90 Dodge Spirit with 700,000 on it?? If so, incredible! I knew MMO was good, but it's a miracle worker. No offense but Spirits weren't exactly the greatest of all time cars.😊
When I was 17 in 1973 I worked part time for a small used car lot. One day the owner
Drove in with a 1968 olds vista cruiser knocking and smoking . He shut it off ,drained
The oil then filled it completely with marvel oil , let it idle all day then drained it put oil back in it and it ran great after that.
That's a old mechanic trick
Did he turn the odometer back too
For motorcycle people: Have had decent sucess using a cocktail of mmo and seafoam to get plugged carbs to clear up, maybe works 25% of the time if you can get the bike to start. Also dribble some mmo on new petcocks so the internal rubber does not tear when you switch from off/on/reserve.
This is THE best video on marvel mystery oil. Thank you!
I can attest to small engines. The performance increase is incredible. I had a new chainsaw when I put it in the gas!
I used some in the oil of my 81 Jeep CJ7 that was smoking badly after I purchased it. It cleared it up. At the next oil change I left the filter in my metal drain pan overnight because I wanted to cut it up and check for metal in the filter. The next day when I went to go open the filter the oil in the drain pan had crept up the sides of the pan in crazy geometric patterns almost like frost on a window.
Was your engine blowing white or blue smoke, and was it blowing smoke constantly or only when you accelerated from a stop position and then clear up?
@@MrJohnnyDistortion blue when taking off from a stop it smoked bad
Probably had 1 or more stuck piston rings that the marvel got moving again
@eddymetal84
Smoked blue continuously, it's rings. Expensive repair. Smoked blue only for a few seconds when leaving from a stopped then cleared up the it's valve seals. Inexpensive. Replace what remains with Teflon seals.
@@MrJohnnyDistortionYep. My dad's 66 Coronet was blowing blue under all conditions. He had rebuilt the heads when it burned exhaust valves but never touched the cylinders. The rings gave up on it so when I inherited it 12 years ago I rebuilt the whole engine. Needed a 0.030 overbore to get rid of the ridge carved into the cylinder walls. Now runs like new. Just a stock 273 2bbl with a mild Isky cam. Not a racecar...😎
I got turned onto this stuff when my 5.3 Vortec with AFM started tapping. Someone in a Facebook group said these engines carbon up and deposits can make a lifter sticky. 1 bottle and 200 miles of hard driving later the tap disappeared and stayed gone after the next oil change.
Usually I'll add up to a quart like 3-400mi before an oil change, as long as the oil is a little low and needs to be topped off.
Make certain that you use only wax based engine oils rather than tar based because the tar based oils will clog up in critical areas and in return oil galleys, with tar.
Did the same on my 2006 grand prix gxp 5.3 added it to the oil because of a slight tic cold start . The mmo after 20 min idle shut off next days cold start no tick . Also i only added 1/2 a bottle to the 5_30 synthetic oil . After every 2 oil change i add a few oz to keep lifters and 4-8 system clean . No issues
I used it for years in my airplane, 1/2 oz per gallon of gas, kept the valves clean and it also seemed to help keep the lead from the avgas from fouling the plugs as fast. Also used it in an old Caterpillar d326 generator engine that would stick a lifter as you got towards the oil change time, dumped half a quart in the oil when she started missing and within 10-15 minutes would pick up that cylinder.
jonfranklin: what engine did you have that airplane?
@@horacesawyer2487
I have a 108-3 Stinson with a 165 hp Franklin.
@@jonfranklin4583 : that's awesome.. I should start adding it to the fuel in a 182 with a Continental O-470U. About 1300 hours now. 2000 TBO.
They used it at the Oil Refinery I worked at 40 years ago for their Ingersol - Rand compressors. I think they produced 1200 HP each. There were eight of them. For the Coker unit I was an operator for it. If my old mind remembers right. It was injected into the each of the valve heads. Those compressors ran 24/7365. They were loud, we had to wear ear muffs. I don't remember how old those compressors were. But they were old. Ran great.
I didn't know air compressors produced horsepower..😊
I just put 6 ounces in my power steering pump because the steering rack was sticking in the cold mornings near freezing. No more sticking smooth as butter now.
Lard. 🤤
I have one of the original metal cans from the 90's and refill it from the newer plastic bottles
I inherited a bottle that's gotta be 30yo, never opened.
It definitely has more wintergreen smell than the new stuff, and was a little darker maybe but it worked fine.
I suspect they've had to modify the original formula here and there over the years.
Same here!!
@@MrTheHillfolk
I don’t think they have to!
A factory can make any chemical or blend of chemicals!
They list wintergreen oil on ingredients list as included to make it smell better. I believe that is not completely accurate. Wintergreen oil is also the main ingredient in a product called Rubber Renew. It cleans and renews rubber. Way back when I worked as a slot machine tech we used it to clean the rubber belts in bill acceptors. Worked great to get them working properly again. We could replace the belts but it was labor intensive, involving a lot of little parts and peaces.
In addition to the "reversion", you mentioned, we also have crankcase emissions, via the PCV system, coming through the intake and sticking to the valves as well. Speaking of intake cleaning, have you done an episode on Seafoam yet?
Actually that is what I was wondering. I have use seafoam in my lawnmowers ect for over winter and they always start. I also used it to do an intake cleaning. When I did it to my 1992 Mustang GT it looked like a diesel.
@@danw6014 Interestingly, I did it to my 2000 Dakota 4.7 a few years ago and it didn't smoke nearly as much as I was warned. I still use it occasionally in the tank for injector maintenance, but this engine apparently doesn't get the intake and cylinder build up that other engines seem to.
Fun fact about airplanes and mineral oil: many engine manufacturers still recommend 100% mineral oil for the fist 50 to 100 hours.
Interesting, can you explain why?
@@perkypat2214 It's break in oil. It will allow the metal parts to wear in such a way that it helps. Then switch to the regular oil to stop the wear.
Piston aircraft engines use a heavier oil. I'd run 100 weight in my 1954 Bonanza. E-225 engine.
@@perkypat2214same reason I use Castrol GTX Classic formulated with very high zinc content for break in and just better for classic engines as well.
@@robertthomas5906Baby Oil is straight mineral oil. Break-in oil has more ZDDP and less detergent so metal particles fall out into the sump. I think aviation motor oil has a smaller additive package so more lubricating oil is present.
I've been a small engine and marine mechanic for 50 years. The majority of my work has been on 2-stroke engines, both air and water cooled. MMO is absolutely amazing in its ability to break loose poorly-stored outboards and snowmobiles. I've pulled the plug(s) on a stuck snow-sled engine and poured in the MMO, and then reached down to grab the pull cord, and it rolls over. I just saved a Mercruiser 3.0L stern drive engine that sat all summer full of water. I drained the engine base, blew out the plug holes, added the MMO and walked away for two weeks. I then put a breaker bar on the crank snout, broke it loose, and had it running by that evening.
15 years ago I put a little Marvel in my cylinders and put the plugs back in. It smoked the neighborhood for 15 minutes or more. Afterwards the spark plugs were clean like new, no joke. Ever since then it has become my additive of choice for keeping the cleaning and lubricating properties for combustion chamber, injectors and fuel pump. I usually mix this with Lucas for a deep clean couple times a year. If you keep up with it, it keeps working. Also use it in power steering. It smells nice too!
Does it help with noises in power steering? Or better turning?
Uncle Tony, I’ve watched your channel for years and being an old school Chevy guy, I never had a lot of respect for MOPAR guys.
On rare occasions I ran into some MOPAR guys that did it right and really impressed me with one of those big wedge motors just kill at the drag strip.
The only Plymouth I ever had any respect for was that Road Runner when it first came out ( that plain Jane 383 ) with a column shifter and rubber mats, wide oval tires and dog dish hub caps, completely dominate the street races.
The night foreman where I worked as a teen had one that he kept meticulous care of.
He got called out by a guy with a Chevy ll 327 4 speed.
Long story short that Road Runner stood up on the back bumper and the driver of the Chevy ll walked back in with his right leg still shaking! ( remember the leg shake in a close race)?
Enough about my respect and disrespect for Mopar.
I’m so glad you let these younger guys know about Marvel.
I had a customer that bought an old mint condition Studebaker that smoked so bad that oil was literally dripping from the tailpipe.
We added one can to the gas tank and one to the crank case and he drove the gas approximately 100 miles up PCH and then back to my shop (west LA) and when he returned to tailpipe was ash grey Oil pressure was at 30 psi @ idle.
So when you reached out to explain some of our old school snake oil ❤ I felt some of that old school kinship we once shared back in the day.
Thanks for your old school input to a rapidly changing environment.
I have a '56 Tbird with 312 y-block. The forums I read almost always mentions Marvel Mystery Oil as first item to try for all the reasons you discussed. Thanks Tony.
Y-BLOCKS have a particular oil passage issue, prone to varnishing the interior of the motor.
There's a TH-cam video on the topic .
I had a '55 292 y-block.
Oil changes on the dot which those motors
I think I read somewhere that they used Marvel Mystery oil in aircraft engines in World War II. Particularly the radial engines which would eat a lot of oil during flight. They'd eat so much oil that they'd have ullage tanks of oil to transfer to the engine oil tanks as they got low on long flights. Marvel Mystery oil would help keep the upper cylinders lubricated. My guess is that the lard would polymerize as it was burned off in the cylinder and provide a slick coating to the cast iron surface. Sort of like seasoning a cast iron cooking pan. It'd make sense that the base stock of MMO is mineral oil since that is what was used to lubricate piston powered aircraft back then; generally a SAE 50 weight mineral oil. Interestingly the oil system on these aircraft also had a fuel dilution valve to inject AvGas into the oil tank to thin the oil down during cold start, and to also flush the thicker oil out of the engine during shutdown.
MMO has a small amount of an anti wear additive in it also.
Yeah, and I bet it was whale oil used during WW2. Whale oil was used in a lot of mineral lubricants, primarily automatic transmission fluid until the 1972 endangered species act they couldn't get the whale oil anymore. So lard/pig fat was used as a substitute after 72. Which worked but wasn't as good as whale oil. Now of course we have synthetics.
I have an 454 that was getting an intermittent lifter tick. It was just one lifter, so I added a bottle and it stayed quiet for about 5,000 miles. I never expected it to fix a bad lifter, but I was surprised that it even helped as much as it did.
I'm a big fan of SeaFoam too, also used in both fuel and crank case 😉
Sea foam was designed for 2 cycle Marine engines not 4 cycles but alot use it anyway.
Just about the only snake oil i recommend, freed up the stuck rings on a 231 Buick V6 that I had
I keep a spray bottle of Marvel as my No.1 go-to as a penetrant as well as a rust-inhibitor (wiped down). Plus, I've unstuck EVERY engine that I've ever attempted to unfreeze when it is put down the cylinders.
Love Mystery Oil, when I was a little boy in the 60's we had in our neighborhood Mr Kelley. He fixed "business machines" but, he was known to us kids as the bicycle man. How many bikes he put together for us kids I'll never know, but, it was a lot. He always had a pump can of Mystery Oil - first time I learned of it, and the smell brings back great memories. Yes there's a bottle in my trunk now. :)
I use MMO as an after run oil in my RC airplanes glow engines. It helps keep the water in the air from rusting the bearing. I've even put a little in the fuel and it can help keep it clean.
I have used it mainly for hydraulic lifter issues, clatter, bleed down, sticking etc. Threw it in one time with a nothing to lose type mind set, & be damned if the damn stuff don't work like a charm ! Also Tony, I know that beef tallow & lards are used in certain machining oils. I'm sure you know a good machinist. Ask him (or her) about the lard & he should know. 🤓
I just posted a question about an occasional sticking lifter in my low mileage 74 Charger 318. I have a lot of MMO from my dad; maybe I'll try some in the crankcase.
My grandfather was a carpenter building the Portchester factory for MMO. In 1970, I used MMO to clean an engine prior to disassembly. It removed 90% of the carbon in the combustion chamber. I've used it to clean rings and valves while running the engine. In 2000, I had a 1989 minivan with a weak cylinder. Putting MMO in the gas had the engine running well in 4 months. I still use it. In 1970, I saw two cans of STP gell the oil in a Ford Country Squire 390. It had been towing a big trailer. I like that it leaves a thin coating on fuel systems and prevents corrosion. Thanks for the info. Good Luck, Rick
Add to your Blinker Fluid for brighter, smoother operating Blinkers.
I had a good success story using MMO. A high mileage slant 6 truck that I bought hadn't seen a lot of love for years and the ignition and carb was pretty shot. After replacing carb, distributor, etc., etc. I started dosing the tank with MMO on fill ups. It took some time to start working, but when it did, it blew carbon out the tailpipe on every start and warm up for a couple of months. Changed to oil again and saw a couple ringlets of carbon in the oil. Maybe carbon from valve seats? I think that the biggest intended purpose of MMO was to help remove lead deposits on plugs and combustion chambers. MMO came out about the same year that Tetraethyl lead started going in gasoline.
Great stuff. Has many uses. I've used it to break seized engines free. You mentioned timing chains.... wondering if synthetic helps keep them clean. If not, would adding mmo help or just break down the synthetic?
I've been inside high mileage engines w/ good syn oil changes that still are in spec and clean... just need seals, gaskets, or intake manifolds fixed. High miles to me is 250-300k miles for most vehicles
@@workingcountry1776 so the chains? I have a 2.5 vw 5 cyl. Has had synthetic all its life. At 109 mi. Now. Thinking about the future. That timing setup is kinda scary and weak.
@@spacecat7247if you use a really good synthetic like mobil 1 extended performance you shouldn’t have to add anything else. Not all full synthetics are full synthetics, most aren’t. Not all oil is created equal.
I've used it to free a couple of seized tractor engines. Soaked the cylinders couple of days, it seemed to work. Both engines ran fine without a teardown.
I always liked that MMO could give gasoline some lubrication properties - similar to diesel fuel. If it works as advertised it could extend engine life if used regularly in fuel.
Today's modern diesel is so dry that MMO would probably be a great additive so long as it doesn't foul all the crappy emissions equipment that have basically ruined their efficiency.
Be careful adding to a diesel fuel "commercial vehicle" .... might dye the diesel and make it appear as "off-road" diesel. !!! Red dye !
@@user-cp5vl9ot9x good point
Lard is used as a cutting fluid. It also seasons cast iron cookware (fills the pores of the cast iron). MMO just smells good, too.
That's the wintergreen oil.
I recall reading the airplane article he speaks of back in the mid 80s.
Oh man , that's around the time mobil-1 lost their butts on their synthetic.
It was causing the lead to drop out and it would coat the insides of the engines with a heavy gray sludge.
Cost em millions.
i fry french fries in it. its friggen awesome.
Lard makes the best pie crusts
@@mpetersen6
Yep sure does.
My grandma from Germany used to wait for the bacon grease in the pan to cook off and turn white,then spread it on some bread.
Lived to be 93 ✌️
An old timer taught me that bacon grease is the best lubricant when you work on brake lines when using brake flaring tools. I tried it a few times I can't say that the results were bad.@@MrTheHillfolk
We always used Marvel Mystery Oil straight in 2 speed axle shift motors. It worked perfectly.
definite work solution to at least try. years ago i had a stuck lifter and it actually worked it loose. amazing stuff to a point! thanks as always for your videos! so glad you had some shorter ones cause lately the longer ones i havent been able to watch due to not enough time! love all your videos! keep rolling. your an inspiration to us old guys who have old vehicles we like working on!!
Its great for freeing rusted parts and engines. Smells good too.
I have a Stanley Steam Car and the steam cylinder oil that was originally recommended was made by Harris and it was 94 percent Pennsylvania crude and 6 percent lard. The lard was for viscosity so the steam could scour the cylinder of the lubrication. Like treating a cast iron skillet. Great stuff and the only stuff that would work if you didn't want to burn your 'D' valves.
Sea Foam is both a fuel and oil additive too. I have used it many times in my motorcycles as a fuel stabilizer when they are parked during the winter. This winter I used Sta Bil instead. The Sta Bil was cheaper so I used it.
Seafoam isn’t quite the same as MMO.
I wouldn’t trust it as a stabilizer either, nor would I trust sta-bil as a good stabilizer either. It truly is snake oil.
Seafoam can do some things MMO does but so does diesel and kerosene at a much cheaper price than seafoam.
@@thatairplaneguy Seafoam is NOT snake oil... it has proven itself just like MMO, I have used it successfully to fix oil consumption on my Tundra and the prolonged hard starting on my wife's Pilot.
Thanks so much Uncle Tony , I have been using this stuff for years and this is the best explanation of how this works and its formula that I have ever heard.
I have used it in 2 engines with good results. The first is a Nissan Infinity 3.5 liter V6. The variable cam timing relies on electrical as well as hydraulics to function. The engine was throwing the code for the cam timing sensor. The sensor was testing out ok. The small fluid tunnels in the block that help with the mechanics of the cave timing became partially obstructed by varnish build up. Marvel Mystery oil in the crank case for one oil change interval cleaned that up and the engine no longer throws cam timing codes. The second is on my 66 El Camino 396 had a sticky hydraulic lifter on the #5 cylinder intake valve. Running Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case for 500 miles cleaned up the varnish in the lifter allowing the oil to move freely in and out allowing the lifter to function properly and silencing the pronounced lifter tick noise that was audible at over 2500 rpm. It has many more uses like cleaning up carbon deposits in the combustion chamber and on valves. It’s always worth a try. Many a mechanic has told me it never hurt any engine that they know of.
The only Mopar I ever owned UT (69 Satellite w/ a 318) I would put a quart in every oil change. When the car was finally scrapped a dozen yrs later, you could pull the valve covers off and still see the paint markings from the factory on the valve springs and the oil passages were spotless. It gets my 👍!
I remember reading somewhere that this was used in sewing machines and they added peppermint oil because the ladies didn't like the smell of regular
Oil.. and that's how it started
Sounds about right. You used to be able to get quart bottles of lemon scent additive I think from dodge dealerships, or possibly it was a shell product, for older diesel trucks without positive crankcase ventilation. People didn't like what shell rotella used to smell like after an oil change. They changed it a few years ago it doesn't have the weird soapy smell now. I kinda liked the smell of it but some people hated it enough they put the lemon stuff in so it smelled like sunlight dish soap.
My Mom use to use Sloan's Liniment for sore Joints in her shoulders, MMO smells just like it
The smell is actually wintergreen
I'm 72. Very familiar with old formulation of gasoline and varnishing in the carb, etc. My dad swore by marvel mystery oil. Had a gallon can of it. Thanks for the history!
Great stuff, love that you brought up the timing chain, no one ever talks about the effects on these. Good stuff!
Have "heard " it will also benefit the fuel pumps that are in the gas tank acting like you said as a lubricant and seal protector . Got this off a motorcycle channel .
Been using in my pickup for years. A dose every 3rd tank
180k still on original pump. Keeps injectors clean also.
I use it in metal fuel tanks to prevent rust.
I learned the hard way years ago about the oil bypass spring in oil pumps......The tiny bypass spring inside that acts like a spring loaded checkvalve , eventually gets weak & opens at a lower pressure. Causing low oil pressure in old engines....Eventually it'll wear out completely and all the oil gets pumped through the bypass instead of into your engine, starving it of oil = engine toast
Oil bypass is to bypass oil filter not the engine, so oil filter media do not rupture. Oil still gets to engine just not filtered.
@@petesmitt Nope not confused....When the spring is new and strong. It holds the bypass valve closed. So all the oil is going up into the engine & not out the bypass back into the oil pan... It's takes a higher engine/oil pressure to push on the bypass spring and make it open...When the engine oil pressure gets too high, it pushes the spring open. So some oil bypass & flows into the oil pan instead going up into engine. When the spring gets weak, it doesn't have as much strength to hold the valve closed. So lower engine oil pressure causes the bypass to open at lower than normal pressure. Then when the spring gets even weaker, it can't hold the valve closed at all. So all or a huge majority of oil going right out the bypass valve & very little is reaching the engine.
My 2.8 V6 oil pump used a spring loaded bypass check valve. The spring pressure holds the bypass valve opening closed.
Too high of engine oil pressure overcomes the springs strength & pushes valve open.
@@petesmittRespectfully .... If the bypass valve gets blocked so oil can't flow out of it & lower engine oil pressure.....Then the engine oil would get way too high & blow seals & gaskets. Because no oil could flow out of the blocked bypass/relief, valve to relive & lower the engine oil pressure.
I'm not confused on this one.
@@shellylozano1052
The oil filter bypass valve is different to the oil pump pressure relief bypass valve.
@@michaelbrinks8089
You are correct; I got confused, cheers.
Oh, the lard is in there to make your exhaust smell even sweeter. I used Marvel Mystery Oil in a Saturn owned by a kid who was living with us while he finished college. He was not the best at changing his oil regularly, and the little hole that fed oil pressure to the timing chain adjuster had apparently gunked up, leading to a loose and rattly timing chain. As a last resort, before tearing into it, I put some Marvel Mystery Oil into the crankcase and, son of a gun, the timing chain quieted right down, The solvent in the additive must have worked. I do not know if it also helped the dreaded Saturn Sticking Oil Control Ring problem, as he graduated and moved away soon after. But I'm a believer.
I had a 2002 Saturn L200 with the 2.2 Ecotec. I did my oil changes between 3000-5000 miles and that engine never gave me an ounce of trouble. Sold it at 126k miles running like new. Years later I heard about the oiling issues and wonder if that was due to long change intervals.
I successfully used this stuff to unstick the engines in a couple of Honda CX500’s I picked up a few years back. Made a believer out of me!
I like MMO and Kroil. MMO has helped me free the rings in 2 stuck engines, and as someone has already mentioned, it's a good lubricant for air tools. Many years ago, we used ATF or MMO to help free up sticky hydraulic lifers. Our machine shop always used Stoddard Solvent for parts and tool cleaning, so it's not surprising that's an ingredient in the stuff.
Question: can adding MMO to the fuel of a "modern" car damage the catalytic converter?
I checked their website, had same question. No it will not harm the catalytic converter.
We used to use it to lube stuck air starters at my old job, it works real well for that
@@unclebob7937
Yeah but the bottle says don't use in emission era diesels ,like 08 and up that require low sulphur diesel.
That tells me it works but they're worried about harming the emissions equipment,idk maybe causing EGR or dpf deposits.
Either way ,I use it in everything else but if it's got a cat I won't usually put it in the fuel.
@@MrTheHillfolk I've heard not to use with diesel fuel.
I've ran it in my '05 5.3 Silverado for over ten yrs.
@@unclebob7937 naw man I've used it for years in all my VW diesels.
I've been driving these silly things since 91 or so.
Mk1/2 idi engines , the TDI engines(they use a Bosch rotary pump) and even the Pumpe Deuse 2.0 in the wife's old Passat.
No experience with the common rail engines ,as the emissions equipment ruined the fun for me and now I have older tdis and idis for fun.
The wife's old Passat got 41.5 highway , her newer gas engine gets 37.5 highway.
Eh around town ,yeah it's not close to a diesel but I don't commute long enough to justify the cost of a diesel.
If they say don't use it in an emissions diesel , maybe it's best to listen to them but yeah I'd run it in the oil and fuel on almost any other diesel.
It works. In the 80s I had a 72 charger and out a four speed in it. It made a weird noise inly when in gear and any gear. I put a quart of Marvel in it and rest gear lube. It stopped being nosey a couple days later and never made a peep again. My buddy had a stick Toyota. He was moving 80 miles away. I told him my story so he tried it. By time he got to his new place it never made noise again. My friends laughed and said it wouldn't work. Hell I was thinking I got lucky but no it just must of coated the bearings and kept it alive. What a mystery oil
Great video. Especially pointing out how the chain and rings will be better lubricated. Marvel now has a synthetic version which is for crankcase only. So I use this in the colder months, in the crankcase for normal driving. I use the original product before an oil change, and add some to the fuel.
Uncle Tony I had an old Timer tell me once he would put this in a spray bottle and spray cylinders and parts down if they were going to sit for any amount of time before assembly. I gave this a shot and never looked back after that one experience. When metals are sprayed with this stuff it appears to soak into the pores of the metal. Before I assemble I clean thoroughly with brake parts cleaner and apply assembly lubricant.
After watching this video, I thought of the spray bottle idea, too, and will try it.
Really like this information! I knew from experience that Marvel would work for many engine maintenance issues in old school engines. I would use a 4qt. 30w. oil/1 qt. Diesel fuel in oil, run it on idle for about 30 minutes, dump and flush.
I used a bit of MMO to free stuck rings in a LS1 that I was given. It'd been sitting in an abandoned, totaled car for an unknown period of time before I got it.
I had the compression numbers go from 30-120 psi to ~135-150 psi across the board.
I just keep learning from you Unkle Toney. Every video you always school me in one way or another. Thank you! Your pretty smart Man!
I had a late 60's Pontiac manual and it recommended soaking stuck lifters in marvel mystery oil. Also had an engine builder recommend squirting some in each cylinder and rotating the engine by hand, backwards first, before starting an engine that has been sitting a long time.
Yes!!
66 Pontiac factory manual in my case.
I think stoddards is the basis of WD….
Wow, thank you for the video! Very informative. Love the format and the discussion.
I've heard of this stuff my whole life, but never knew what it was actually used for.
Very much appreciate the clarification. Time to give some a try on my 07 F150 that just broke 200k mi.
Great video and thank you. 3 Jeep dealers could not fix my stumble and misfire on my '03 Jeep Rubicon starting at about 7k miles from new; I have been the only driver since I ordered it from the factory. Then one dealer told me about Jeep TSB 09-003-03 which is about sticking exhaust valves; btw they did not cure the problem and never did the TSB properly but just dumped some junk down the intake. MMO in the fuel freed up the exhaust valves and I have to do 2 tanks of gas every 5-10k miles. The Jeep has 108k miles now. MMO for the win. I suspect gunk on the exhaust valve stems is slowing the closing of the valves.
Don't forget that alot of the rotary engine folks like MMO because it works very well as a premix. Rotary engines have a little metering pump that drips small amounts of oil into the intake to lubricate the apex seals. That works fine for normal street use, but for racing purposes more volume of oil is usually needed, so it's common to remove the metering pump and premix the fuel with either 2 cycle oil or marvel mystery oil. I think this is one thing the lard helps with, because it burns very slowly and thus lubricates more effectively during combustion
I was just adding stabilizer to the gas on my mower and snowblower and still had to rebuild carburetors every year. Now I use Marvel Mystery Oil and Non Ethanol gas for the first start, and the last run of both my lawnmower and snowblower (mystery oil also added to oil). Haven't had to rebuild them since.
Get a 5 gallon can and put it in everytime you fill it up,I kind of use alot more than you're supposed to,but the stuff is cheap and it's easy to do.
I've got a quart of it, I bought it for a stuck engine years ago. It didn't work, but in it's defense when I pulled the head and saw the condition of the cylinder, nothing you could pour in there would have fixed those cylinders.
After that I did find a great use for it , thinning anti-seize. I'll buy a bottle of anti-size and it tends to dry out before I use the whole bottle. Any other stuff I tried doesn't mix very well, but somebody suggested I use Marvel Mystery Oil and it woks great. Mixes good, stays mixed, and it doesn't seem to dry back out.
Used car dealers all know that Marvel through the carb of a running engine usually frees sticking valves and in the oil reduces gum and sludge especally with ND oils .
It actually helped with my gummed up Reed Valves in a YZ80 we had over 20 years ago.. It was my Dads idea, it worked, the bike ran real well many more years... Thats really the only time Ive used it and it worked.... Thanks Dad....... So Im 1 for 1 on the Marvelous Mysteries of Oil.
Stuff works really well on a newer cars equipped with low tension rings and direct injection. when they start using oil add MMO with the next 2-4 oil changes to help reduce oil usage by removing the carbon from the sticking piston rings.
Actually the plane crash involved the use of Slick 50. It crashed near Yellowstone Natl Park. Supposedly, the oil filter was plugged with the Teflon in the formulation & starved the bearings.
My late uncle was a diesel mechanic in Alaska. He also had an airplane, and swore by Slick 50.
He took off after the plane had an annual pm / inspection. The oil drain plug fell out & lost oil pressure. He was able to go around the pattern, and land without the engine seizing.
We used Slick 50 when it came out in our Slant 6 Volare. Unfortunately after a while that engine starting burning a lot more oil than it customarily did (being a Slant 6). Wound up ruining the engine at 168k miles. We drove it to the junkyard as the rest of the car was rotted. Years later I remember the Slick 50 lawsuit came out.