The Effects of Stuck Rings & Blowby on Engines
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 ม.ค. 2022
- Stuck rings can be a real problem for engines. Usually the cause is a combination of oil oxidation and polymerisation getting into the ring groove, inhibiting the capacity for the ring to seal against the cylinder liner.
As a result, blowby increases and it can result in both increased wear and reduced oil life. - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
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The governments controled by companies and companies like this to turn over cars
I always wanted the whole story on stuck rings. Thank you!😊
You are so welcome!
You explained this so eloquently. I've always felt I've had a hard time understanding exactly how piston engines work and this one video answered so many questions. Thank you.
Don’t know if running Diesel engine cold creates any other chemical effects, but it is decreases oils solubility, which makes oil sticky , and not burning out soot as it should - and both promotes this piston rings getting gummed up and stuck.
Diesels MUST be running up to proper operational temperature and under load.
It becomes a run-away effect because not only can you have HC clogging the rings, the increased friction that leads to, then leads to metal microwelding between the piston and ring. This creates a less flat surface for the rings to sit on, those gaps are typically filled by unburned hydrocarbons. The compression is reduced, which leads to more unburned HCs.
Yup. Most wear mechanisms tend to exhibit that runaway behaviour.
Amazingly educational, you get my thumbs up sir.
This is an absolutely superb video and an excellent lecture!
Many thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
I learned quite a bit from this very informative video.
Another great explanation! Nice work, thanks for sharing it!
Glad you liked it!
Hello, great video. I have a small kubota 3 cylinder diesel which has started to produce some blow by. It is particularly obvious at idle rpm but when under load at high rpm it seems to reduce considerably. I.m tempted to open and re ring but was told it is a waste of time / money because pistons/rings/liners wear in sets and should be all replaced in one go.
Pls do an article of engine lubrication oils vs low tension piston rings. From around 2005 to around 2012 it would seem that Toyota, BMW, VW and few others have issues on its the design & testing leading to lawsuits, recalls, extended warranty etc etc. Or is it that the engine lubricating oils, in that era, was not advanced enough?. Regards
Yes Yes Yes !!!! Perhaps the No 1" reason to change the OIL , Polychronis Kotsikas New Philadelfia Athens Greece .
Great explanation!
Thanks!
This was very good.
Nice job 👍
My GDI engine was consuming oil at a very high rate due to a stuck oil control ring. I added Berryman Chemtool to an empty gas tank and then filled the tank with high octane gas. I then drove for about five miles with the engine at high RPMs (4000-4500) but never redlining the RPMs.
The excessive oil consumption is gone.
The combination of Berryman Chemtool, high octane gas, and high RPMs freed up the oil control ring and eliminated the problem. There was no need for a piston soak.
The only thing that fixed your problem was driving at high rpm's. Nothing you add to the fuel will reach your oil control rings, for that you'd have to add something to the oil.
Amazing content ,thanks rafe ....pls , can you talk in details about textile oils...it is no content in TH-cam about this subject ...thanks in advanced
Let me see wha I can do.
@@LubricationExplained ..many thanks for you
Can oil flushing remove whatever inhibits behind the rings? What to do to prevent sticky piston rings?
Wow your explaining is amazing very well defined now want to flush my engine
and how would you solve this problem? i have a diesel engine, and i want to get rid of this problem w/o new pistons, is it posible?
So would the following help to reduce wear, internal corrosion and the risk of sticking rings on a CRD Common Rail Diesel Engine:
1/ regular synthetic oil and oil filter changes?
2/ oil flushing agent prior to oil change?
3/ Centrifugal oil filter?
4/ Centrifugal air pre cleaner?
5/ blocked EGR valve?
6/ limit condensation by storing vehicle in enclosed garage especially overnight in Winter? (never below 5 degrees Celsius)
7/ optimal injector operation by regular sonic cleaning, tested and maintained in service by using fuel additives that lubricate the diesel more and a decarboniser?
These additives have been independently tested with detailed scientific reports.
8/ Well designed , tested and maintained oil air separator for crankcase blowby gases, aka Catch Can?
Interesting subject
Yeah. there's a lot to it. I didn't even really talk much about the effect in reverse, where the crankcase oil ends up in the exhaust.
@@LubricationExplained Nah, but that's default, don't not really needed to mention.
Very informative material. Hope that more and more people--especially new drivers-
will learn and remember the vital benefits of Regular Lube Services!
Btw I do my own oil changes every 4500 km!
Thanks!
Wow, 4500km on synthetic ? Most likely a bit of overkill. But 6k km that's more reasonable. Anyway, most past 2000 engines are prone to oil burning. Our favorite is the 2.4L in CR-V, we change or re-ring them by dozens.
@@pliedtka Aren't the oil consumption problems with the Honda K series engines almost always caused by the rings sticking from poor maintenance and possibly poor driving habits? I've never seen a well maintained K series burn much oil regardless of mileage. I have a K24A2 in my 04 Civic and it never burned any meaningful amount of oil, but I only use top tier fuel and top of the line synthetic oil changed every 4-5K miles with plenty of long trips and full throttle runs up to redline.
@@averyalexander2303how many miles on the ol’ Civ if I may ask? Another question, do you mean every 4-5 kilometers or miles? K would indicate kilometers but I know people use it in place of miles as well. Thanks.
@@MrRedHotChiliMan I bought that K24 used for my swap, so I don't know how many miles are on it. But before I installed it, I tore it down to the bare block to thoroughly clean and inspect everything and replace all the gaskets and it was pretty clean and showed very little wear, There was some carbon in the ring grooves as always, but I don't remember anything excessive. As I said in my original comment, I change the oil and filter every 4-5K miles and only use top of the line oil. It's currently filled with Amsoil Signature Series 10W-30. I forgot to mention that I did add the OEM K20 oil cooler though, so that may also be preventing oil consumption by keeping the oil cool enough to not break down and burn off excessively. I have seen reports of fairly high oil temps on these engines under certain conditions, which may or may not be a factor in the oil consumption problems that some people are having. I also deleted the balance shafts while it was apart, which may or may not have any effect on oil consumption.
So how do you prevent it from happening?
Paradoxically, the presence of fuel in the oil after some time would solve the problem in the rings, because the fuel is a solvent
and would clean the encrustations sticking to the piston rings ...
Definitely could, although the quantities may not be high enough for it to have a meaningfully positive effect.
I always use an engine flush to clean out any gunk at every oil change .
After engine flush I'm having excessive blow by..any idea on what to do..
@@bijucarcare3811 Possibly start using non-synthetic oil .
@@bijucarcare3811 Or maybe AT-205 Re-Seal in case your seals are worn . As this swells them up to reduce oil leaking , etc
I have getz 2007 it started burn oil after timing seal failure i replaced it and want to do engine flush in the next service i use 15w40 oil to minimize the burn but i wont use 20w50 because the oil need to have smooth stream and i cant let the oil pump work harder the car has 270k km
Nice
nice
Thanks!
What are your thoughts on PEA based cleaners to control the buildup of carbon behind rings ect ect ?
What does PEA stand for?
@@martinlang9615 polyetheramine
This cleans the top of the pistons mainly.
Might help but will take time.
If the oil-control ring scrapes the oil off as the piston moves up the cylinder, how does the piston still get lubricated?
The fuel will cool the cylinder wall and also any unburned petrol will lubricate for the combustion stroke and during the intake stroke too.
If you will allow me, I have a green waste of oil that freezes in the winter and in the summer it returns to a liquid. How can I extract paraffin wax from this oil? Please advise and thank you.
Not easy. In refineries this would be the solvent dewaxing step and is reasonably complex, I believe the way it used to be done was waxy oil was mixed with naphtha and filter aid (fuller’s earth or diatomaceous earth). The mixture was chilled and filtered, and the filter aid assisted in building a wax cake on a filter cloth. You might be able to try something like that.
Yamalube Ring Free Plus can help with unsticking rings.
I get a poof of white/grey smoke when I launch my car hard. No smoke after. Would you say this is caused by my rings being worn? It's a 2006 Nissan 4cyl with 120k miles.
This is likely a leaking valve stem seal overnight.
Help needed
My mechanic is saying that my car Mitsubishi Mirage 1.0L has a sticky rings problem and needed to be replaced. But there is no smoke coming from exhaust or decrease in engine oil.
Car is showing under performance in power, and missing and misfire at cold start.
Hello,
Have another mecanic diagnose your problem, need a compression test,a endoscopic camera to look at the cylinders walls and valves.
You can have a differential pressure test done on each cylinders, it could reveal a leak towards your problem.
Always ask for a second diagnose, there are severals ways to get to pinpoint the problem.
Tigo.
Sounds like you may just need new spark plugs. I would start with that to see if it fixes the problem. Cheap, & you can easily do it yourself.
So is there any non invasive ways to unstick the rings? People always talk about Seafoam, Mystery Oil, Engine Restore. Looking at the chemicals in them, are they likely to actually help with these long chains that can cause the stuck rings?
B12 berryman soak can work according to the internet.
@@TonicofSonic YMMV - 1.6 GDI Kia I followed a TSB for high oil consumption. berrymans is what I used. was using 2 quarts per 1000 miles, now no oil use at 1,100 miles. I did piston soak overnight, then again in am, then oil change, idle to warm. then added Liqi Moly engine flush 1dle 15 mins then final oil change. Had nothing to lose.
Yamalube Ring Free Plus.
Really, in most cases I have seen, the only solution was to pull the pistons out and re-ring them.
@@pliedtka true depending. The TSB came from NHTSB and if the TSB does not work then an engine is installed under warranty. This worked for the one time tried this. Out of warranty, So far about 4 000 miles before a quart is needed. The issue is the owner does not maintain well.
Do you have any tips for us where we think our piston rings might be stuck? I ask this as my car consumes too much oil and I have been trying different products but without any success.
Good question. Unfortunately the answer is “it depends”. If the rings are stuck because of oxidised deposits, then a flush with a high solvency oil will help dissolve them. But if it’s more like dirt you would need something with high detergency. The problem is that high oil consumption could be for another reason as well, like bore polish, liner scuffing or valve seal wear.
@@LubricationExplained All true. I've also known people who had good luck with the Italian tune up for freeing up stuck rings. Running the engine hard reasonably regularly is at the very least good for helping to prevent stuck rings, more than one manufacturer released service bulletins on that. But obviously using good fuel along with a good quality oil of the proper viscosity and changing it at regular intervals is most important.
Try BG EPR at your next oil change, it helps clean the deposits around these rings helping to restore lost compression etc. It really works.
@@Weareeverything2023This is true. This stuff made my f150 run smoother and have more power by increasing compression and reducing oil blowby with a single treatment.
2 compression rings. Gaps 180° apart. 1 oil control ring.
Unless the rings are stuck, they are going to rotate as the engine runs and the gaps are going to end up wherever they want anyways. It would be ideal if the gaps would stay 180 degrees apart, but there is no practical way to accomplish this without causing other problems.
You shall not pass.
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So thick zddp film can manifest heat
Yup. It probably won't be a lot, but it all counts!
So is that a good thing or a bad thing?