ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 พ.ย. 2020
- Will 300 miles of Seafoam treatment stop this Corolla from using oil?
Marvel Mystery Oil vs Piston rings: • Will Marvel Mystery Oi...
seafoamworks.com/stop-the-smo...
Disclaimer:
If you choose to imitate, duplicate or copy anything you may have observed in these videos, you do so at your own risk. The creator of this content does not take any responsibility for any action taken as a result of the information or advice on this TH-cam channel (or other platforms) and shall not have any liability in respect of any injury or damage that may result. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[MPD직캠] 베이비몬스터 직캠 8K 'LIKE THAT' (BABYMONSTER FanCam) | @MCOUNTDOWN_2024.6.13](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8qa-nm9bCLs/mqdefault.jpg)
Tech Tips. I too love Seafoam, great stuff however the 2AZFE problem was pistons with too small oil return holes in the oil ring groove. When these plug up and they do if synthetic oil is not serviced religiously! Piston ring sticking is the next result, unsticking rings may be only temporary. If opting for rebuild, and the original pistons can be used the oil return holes should be drilled out a little larger. Hastings rings with a 3 piece oil ring design will give the very best results. 40,000 miles later and it doesn't burn a drop of oil between changes. The second issue is to eliminate the balance shafts as the fiber drive gear will fail and cause a clacking sound in the bottom end. Remove the shafts and toss them in the garbage, securely plug the oil ports in the balance shaft bearing cap block face and reinstall the caps. Your oil pressure will increase to normal and the 2AZFE will run smoother than ever. 2008 Rav4, if you only have the balance shaft problem it can be performed from underneath by removing the oil pan.
M Stewart. “Securely plug the oil ports…”. No method mentioned. Very suspect. “fiber drive gear will fail”.
Says who? Who reengineers a 25 year old design on such notions? “normal oil pressure”?
What’s with all the secretive non offering of parameters?
Crazed testosterone claims magic I suppose.
I have seen both Dodge and Toyota pistons with the opposite problem, cracked skirts caused at least partly because the oil drain holes were too large and too square, weakening the piston like the first British jet airliner with the square windows.
AM_Mech and all: GM 1.4 LUU 4 engine on a Chev Volt is throwing oil out the tailpipe, 3 quarts in about 30 miles. Small droplets on the back of the car from the interstate air flow. Had to shut it down. Just got this car. Yikes. Seems to run great. Smooth. And I thought I knew a few things about checking cars out. I have about 50k miles or more behind the wheel of other Volts, familiar with the driving characteristics while on the generator going down the highway. Did not suspect rings or low compression, did not open the oil cap and check for blow by when I test drove it before buying. No milkshake on the dipstick, just dirty unloved oil. Car got hot when oil pressure warning startled out of a slight coma but hopefully not enough to ruin it - I don't think. Probably can't get lucky enough that some seal failed or blockage in PCV routing the oil down the exhaust other than needing motor tear down. I don't fully understand how that works. This one has 170k. Yeah, you're probably shaking your head saying GOOD LUCK CHUCK. I am too. But I'm just happy to be alive, and still have curiosity. Any thoughts appreciated : )
Are there metal replacements for the balance shaft gears?
I agree with your assessment of seafoam It works. I do feel that to measure the oil level, you need to leave the car off for 15 minutes before pulling the dip stick.
Dave, as an auto mechanic myself, I've tried seafoam in car engines. It works! Redo the crankcase step AND the fuel tank step again to further clean out the system. Do it a third time(if needed)! It, also, cleans out the carbon deposits from the Piston Chambers and head's. As a mechanic, it's worth investing the extra few bucks to help your motor run efficiently as long as it runs. Keep the positive attitude about the process-IT WORKS! Douglas🩺
I have 341k miles on my civic and it just started having blue smoke today, so i add it the oil pan or inside the spark plug holes?
@@user-km5kj8xh1x if I was doing this in a high mileage engine, I'd go though the spark plug holes and like he did, let it reside there for a couple of days.
Maybe call that good, or maybe drive the car for 25 or 50 miles, then drain it well before changing the filter and refilling with the correct oil.
But does it clean the intake? I did spray it directly into the intake - apart from some smoke I didn't see much of a difference.
@@user-km5kj8xh1x Are you in Russia? If yes where do you buy Seafoam from?
I add seafoam to my crank case drive about 50 miles and then do the oil change every time I change the oil. Then every 50k miles Seafoam spray down the intake and put a bottle in the exhaust down the o2 sensor hole. Drive 20-30 miles to operating temp then heat soak for hour and oil change. Honda Fit ge8 with 300k miles.
I’ve seen so many videos on these types of products & Seafoam consistently does a better job than the others! Thanks for these videos!!
This reason I think this occurs is because of the PCV system where cars will inevitably suck in oil or oil vapor and burning it will cause the oil rings to get stuck. The solution for me is an oil catch can. Over time as you drive the car, the engine will eventually burn away the residual oi. It certainly helps to run Seafoam or any type of cleaner as I don't see a massive difference. I did this to my fathers 2001 RX300 which burned a lot of oil, and over time with the catch can and seaform it now hardly burns any oil. I put in a fairly large can as well, and after a few months I have to dump it as it gets full. Did this also to my sisters 07 IS250 as it also burned a lot of oil. I had to upgrade the size of the catch can because it also filled up quickly, but now it hardly consumes oil. I now put oil catch cans in nearly all my cars, including my 02 Vette as it also sucked some oil from the PCV.
These are great videos. Thanks for sharing your experiences. Very excited to try this myself
Also consider the possibility that the seafoam cleaned up passages in the oil pump in the journals and the pushrods if you had them. This might even result in a slight loss in pressure but large gain in volume of oil moved through the engine during operation
Thanks for the informal study. The one thing I noticed is when you checked the oil in that parking lot the video showed you parked on a fair downhill grade. That would make the oil read higher on the dipstick than if you checked it in your level carport.. You can also add Seafoam to the fuel and clean and soften valve seals, which may help with oil consumption too..
If you are still using conventional oil try switching to synthetic. It not only cleans better but doesnt coke up like conventional oil. Its the small oil drain back holes in the Corolla piston that coke up and get blocked with the heat instead of letting the oil drain back into the sump
Previous video in this series:
Seafoam vs. Stuck piston rings - top down approach: th-cam.com/video/cxz9cGCULNI/w-d-xo.html
Next video in this series:
Marvel Mystery Oil vs. Stuck piston rings: th-cam.com/video/ZJ023-Wk0OQ/w-d-xo.html
Entire oil burning experiment playlist: th-cam.com/play/PLS7Cti2LicYDtv1hFbz_dErQFGxnTgMCj.html
Hello Dave The code P0011 on my infinity QX56 2011 it has 178 k mille on it . When the engine light 💡 comes on it will not move faster then 10 miles an hour, but when I unplug the battery and the engine light is off it runs perfectly fine
@@ebonyangel8844 I believe your camshaft position sensor is telling your computer the camshaft is too far advanced and it's throwing your car into limp mode. When you unplug the battery it's resetting the code, until the sensor glitches again... replacing the camshaft sensor might solve your problem.
Anyone tried this on the Toyota 2az-fe engines notorious for oil burning issues? Thanks
If you have 2.4L , 1.8L 2ZRFXE ENGINES, this kind of treatment may work if it is not too bad yet. If it consumes about 1quart per 1000 miles or more, it may be ok. But if it every 500miles, it is too late.
Replace your PCV
My 08 Pilot was going thru 1.5 quarts every fillup of fuel. I used the seafoam and now I can go almost 6000 miles before needing a quart. I'd call it a success. 228000 miles.
Hi there! I have a Scion xB that’s doing just about the same. What amount did you add and where? Thanks for any help you can offer :)
@@baybae92 you would use 4oz on an xb (1oz per quart of oil in the car).
...
Great videos, Dave. Thank you! Lots of time and effort to produce these results. Thanks again
Thanks Frank!
Fantastic video, very well executed. I will be doing this to my daughters car today and see if it helps. Thank you for posting.
Thanks Clint! I hope it helps. BTW a lot of folks have recommended a higher dose of Seafoam and leaving it in for a whole oil-change interval.
BTW, Thanks for the in-depth and very informative video on Seafoam, I have always used it as a gas additive but have been cautious about using it in the crankcase
Hi Dave. Others may have commented the same as I am about to, so forgive me if you know this already...
As I understand it, the issue with the 1ZZ isn't so much the sticking rings, it's that the oil return holes in the piston (behind the oil control rings) get blocked, because they're too small. A later revision to the design cured the problem. I have the exact same engine in my MR2 Spyder.
What happens, is that as the piston descends, the oil can't get back through the blocked holes, so it forces its way past the oil control rings and gets into the cylinder itself.
It looks like the Seafoam has worked to unblock the holes to a degree, and would probably improve further with repeated treatment.
I shall try the same process with mine and see what happens! I'm also going to use Lucas oil treatment, which may quiet down some of the (very mild) top end noise. Thank you for an excellent and very useful video.
Yeah exactly owner of a toyota with 2azfe once the oil ring is clogged with oil the engine will start burning oil I did similar fix in video but with motor medic motor flush when doing oil change over 1.5 years changed oil maybe 6-7 time don't look like I'm burning oil anymore
My golf cart quickly used (burned) a lot of oil until I started adding seafoam to the crankcase with an oil change (1 oz per qt). The golf cart has a one cylinder engine without an oil pump. The only thing I can think of is that seafoam helps the rings seat and seal better.
Great video! This car seems to be in great shape body wise. You give great ideas here. Clearly the car is too old to pour serious money into, but if the oil consumption can be managed the car can still last for many years. Interestingly, this year of Corolla is known to burn oil, but I think a lot of owners live with it. I still see a lot of this era of Corolla on the road.
Thanks! and yep, they're notorious for this.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You should try the seafoam injector cleaner (IC5) bottle in the fuel tank to see if it cleans the top pistons. I'm not sure how different it would be from the seafoam treatment though.
DIY Dave, I'll take these two videos seriously. I had an oil burning issue in my Dodge Intrepid 2.7 L v-6. Rather than use Sea Foam, I used a 20% MMO / synthetic oil solution in the crankcase. After about 3000 miles, I observed that the oil burning was eliminated and promptly changed the oil to 100% synthetic oil. 3 days later my engine rattled and died, which may be relieved when I replace the water pump and timing chain, currently in progress. One thing I do know is that the piston top surfaces are caked with carbon. I'm thinking that the top soak for a few days is going to be next.
Do both processes 1 more time. I believe it’ll completely free up the rings and clean out the ring lands now that some of the carbon has been reduced. Also a treatment after with the hose into the throttle body will complete cleaning since it’s introduced into the combustion chamber while the engine is running
i would do both cleanouts again and see if you get any more improvement.good vid!
Yes i fefinately think it did work and over time it will get even better .Good job and wonderful diagnostic.
Great video. Thank you, Dave. I am going to try this.
I have the same car, with the same problems. I used PB Penetrating oil, down the spark plug hole of the cylinder that had the stuck rings, over night. The next day it stopped smoking and ran much better, so then I put two 8cyl bottles of Restore, which helped tremendously with the amount of compression and power the car is making now, plus it doesn't smoke anymore. I have used Sea Foam in the past on other cars with great results, just not on this car yet. Great Video man!
With the stuck rings did you have oil leaking into that cylinder?
I already replaced my valve cover gasket, trying to figure out if my problem is piston rings or something else. It's an 05 camry with 376k miles so could be a number of things but it seems like cyl3 keeps getting enough oil in it to quench the spark and misfire and I can't afford to have anyone else work on it.
@@ThorsDecree -Yes, there is a massive amount of oil leaking by the rings, it really fouls up the plugs. I need to use some B-12 in the cylinders to free up the rings. Its really bad again.
@@TexasHill thanks for the quick reply. Think I'm gonna try B12 after seeing so many people talking about it and a few vids where it clearly led to improvements. While I could theoretically manage tearing down my whole engine by myself, I really really don't want to. Can't really afford the time off as I make most of my money by using my car.
Fortunately after 376k miles it seems I only have stuck rings on one piston but I reckon I might as well soak all 4.
@@ThorsDecree - It works better than anything I have tried. It's worth the few bucks. Leave it overnight, then turn the car over with the plugs out to remove any excess, if any. I blocked the plug holes with blue shop towels to keep the B12 from evaporating over nite. Try it on just the one plug first. You won't regret it.
I know a Guy in the Scion XB group Brent Taber, that runs a whole 16oz can of Seafoam in his Engine for 500 Miles then changes his Oil and does it again when he has about 500 miles before his Oil Change adds a Whole can and repeats,he said by the 3rd time doing this his Oil Consumption went away.
I also know another Guy Scott Smith thats a 30 year master tech mechanic that fixs Toyotas with seafoam he said to add 10oz of seafoam a 100Miles before you change your Oil and then add Motorkote he says the Oil Consumption problem is from stiction he said if you use Motorkote it wont ever return, but most people think they are all full of BS 😂
I love stories like these that keep our hope alive. Thanks for the comment, ChapinTeo84!
My XB has alot of issues with oil consumption. It took 2 cycles of seafoam & lucas oil to signifcantly reduce the consumption.
@@johnoneill959 Explain the process please.
Did the same in my xb, worked.
I did my first Sea Foam treatment on my 113k 08 Camry and it seems like the problem is solved. Previously about 500 miles I would need to top off about 1/2 - 3/4 qt. Now I don’t have to even top off. Oil has been at the top dot and is still clean.
That's good to hear, Marc. Did you do anything differently, or did you follow the recommendations on the can?
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I called Sea Foam CS and talked to a guy who seemed to know his stuff.
I just got a regular conventional 5W-20 oil change and didn’t know about Sea Foam I until after. He said to add 4 oz of Sea Foam and check dipstick whenever I fuel up which is once a week. He said when you see that the oil is getting dirty and / or changing color then get another oil change and add 4 oz again. He said it could take 1 Sea Foam application or a couple. He did indicate it would work though either sooner or later but didn’t guarantee it. He even explained to me in detail why the oil consumption issue with the 2007 - 2009 Camry’s.
I’ve driven about 450 so far since the oil change and Sea Foam treatment and it looks like the dipstick hasn’t moved from top dot and oil looks still looks clean.
A family member actually gave me the car a couple of weeks ago because he wanted it out of his garage. It was his sons who moved to California. He did tell me about the oil consumption problem and said he could have gotten it fixed from Toyota but was 6 months too late when he found out there was a TSB. He called Toyota and they said he missed the boat by 6 months. That TSB would have given him a new motor practically. Anyway I got the car got $0!
@@MarcP5267 Good info, Marc. Thanks for replying,... and if you can, please post any updates. Glad to hear it seems to be working for you!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY yea! Will keep you posted.
How’s the oil consumption coming along? I’m definitely considering Seafoam now too!
Would love an update with continued diving and another in-oil sea foaming! Maybe 2 more weeks as it is, oil change with the sea foam again, and then two more weeks
Good video. Pretty scientific approach.
Could also soften those old valve seals and perhaps help clean the pcv - probably a lot more. Might try it on my 5.3 Savana as it burns a lot too (150,000 mi)
You must also remember even though you did an oil change after your top down treatment it still contributed to your bottom up treatment and with the 2 you achieved a good measure of success!!! Awsome job!! HOOAAH
Exactly the type of videos I wanted, thank you so much for making this! Subscribed!
I am going to do the same, although I don't know how to turn the crank to position the cylinders in the middle. I will do the spark plug method and this.
he showed in the first video, its pretty simple actually
Great outcome. Well done. I have an oil burning issue too and have enjoyed watching your videos on this. My next attempt is likely going to be Seafoam since other engine flushes appear to have done little and only last in the engine for 15 mins prior to draining. At least with this one you can drive your car normally while the Seafoam circulates and attempts to clean the oil control rings.
Thanks, and good luck with yours!
Adding to the oil makes sense because it will continuously coat the cylinder walls when the engine is running and get at the rings that way. It'll also possibly remove the seat from the rings so you may essentially require a break in period afterwards to reseat the rings.
Hi Dave, nice videos, both this one and the piston soak one. It looks like the Seafoam in crankcase is more effective. However, this was right after the piston soak run. Could it be that the piston soak did most of the heavy lifting and loosened the gunk holding the rings and the oil return holes, but it just needed a little bit extra effort to knock off the gunk from the rings/holes to see the full benefits? In other words, if one needs to choose either the piston soak or the crankcase, but not both, which one should he/she pick? Like to know your opinion.
Thanks, SunnySky. I think adding it to the crankcase like Seafoam recommends is the better option. Right now I'm working on a video trying Marvel Mystery Oil. We'll see how that does. If there's not much improvement someone said they run half a can of seafoam in their Sienna all the time (not just the 300 recommended miles, and it has worked wonders---I might try that. The experiments on this Corolla might never end. Hopefully we can all learn something from it. Thanks for the comment!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Thanks and looking forward to your new video.
Have used Sea Foam in motorcycle engines consistently, and it always works as advertised.
If the car isn’t improving (and if seafoam is ok for seals), you could totally fill the engine with seafoam so that the pistons are immersed, let it soak for a month, and then drain. I’m not so sure the top down treatment would get to the rings if the top ring is decent but the other two are stuck.
Actually I just saw a good video where a guy explained how these Toyota engines can get rings that are stuck out against the cylinder and score the cylinders if people don’t change the oil. Maybe the previous owners did this to your car.
Very nice video series you made. I’m doing seafoam treatment now. I’ll start doing it with each oil change.
Interesting idea, Craigie. Thanks ... Also I wonder about replacing the oil with Seafoam and actually running it (at least for a few minutes).
Liquid moly motor flush is more concentrated that sea foam...the cleaning power is pretty impressive
Impressive - I will remember this if I ever see oil consumption issues....
I have used Auto RX with success. You add it to your new oil when you change it and leave it in the car. It says it works in one oil change but i found it needed 2 oil changes. Adding another bottle with the next oil change. This means 2 years but a definite improvement in power. I was concerned that chemical flushes that you drain out after a short time would be too harsh on oil seals.
Speaking of harsh, a wrecker told me he once had an engine that blew a lot of smoke. He sprayed a lot of carburetor cleaner into each cylinder and let it stand, then moving pistons up and down, added more carb cleaner more up and down. Then started the engine. After a while the smoke subsided and ran as normal. I didn't buy an engine from him.
How long have you used Auto RX? I’ve used it on and off, just to avoid using an Engine Flush. It slow down some of the oil consumption. But when I used it with Amsoil Signature Series with Auto RX, it was a dramatic improvement. But I’m going to test it with conventional oil next during the rinse phase to see if I’m getting the same results on oil consumption. Was using Mobil 1 for the past 10 years and it didn’t help with oil consumption and I figure Auto RX was snake oil. I’m still skeptical even though I’m currently using it to see if it’s doing any thing
Dashcam journey
I Have used auto repair for about 5 years or more. I have a 96 Camry that wasn't treated well in the past. Heavy carbon build-up.
I used it for 2 oil changes, maybe 3. It was very sluggish before I used it but after 2 years a definite improvement. On their website they have some videos of a heavily carboned engine with the rocker cover removed, before and after using auto rx. A dramatic improvement. That's what sold me. I tried it in other Camrys that had had regular oil changes and didn't notice an improvement but they were ok to start with.
Thinking of trying in a Mazda 2 gearbox that has delayed changes. Easier than a solenoid clean which is what I was going to do. Note it is not a flush in the usual sense. You put it in with new oil and leave it in until the oil is changed. Usually 12 months.
2 great videos,,,,I think it sure helped and I think it did some cleaning in the engine.
Thank you!
The oil seals clogged with carbon will cause the oil into the strokes and foul plugs and injectors, so cleaning is the solution. Many times I have solved engines from a similar oil use to yours to near zero use, bar leaks or broken rings.The solution I have found is a similar approach to your first in the series, with a soaking and then bring up to operating temp ; throttle body cleaner and others into the engine while keeping up the revs for about 5 to 10 mins, fully drain. Rremove and flush filter and replace temporarily while adding some diesel (an oil) and crank over for a few mins to rinse the engine, fully drain, add new filter and fill with synthetic oil for your engine, replace plugs. Also redoing it as suggested and during more frequent oil changes to keep clean.
Omg i cant believe this video found me. SAME thing in my 15yo Toyota, but not qt per 300 like urs, thats pretty bad. Glad to see ur moving in the right direction! That SF definitely dissolved sludge off tbose rings and probably a ton of other places too. I did this, not even 300 miles, to what I regarded was an otherwise clean engine. It doesnt use oil anymore! I'll probably repeat this now once a year or as I see necessary. Lovely video, Aunt Barbara adores you!
Thanks for the comment. Good luck with yours!
I did the same thing with the same result only, I put a whole can of Seafoam in the gas tank and ran it out. It made no difference in the oil consumption. Then, I put some of Seafoam in the crankcase and left it in. I didn't change the oil after 300 miles. It made a big difference in the oil consumption.
putting seafoam in the gas tank only cleans fuel passages
How much difference did it make? Like in the video he displayed an amount lost before & after treatment. Cheers!
It's not that the rings on these cars are stuck, but clogged. When clogged, the piston rings do not allow oil to pass below the piston head back down thru the engine. Thus the oil is stuck in the combustion process and burned off.
I drive up to 1000 miles with that in the oil and the fuel. Just do it regularly and it will eventually do the job. Worked for me. Now I just use it regularly before every oil change. One treatment is not enough.
Good info. What kind of car did it work on?
Double dose it at 8 oz. Run 1,000 miles. Change oil. It will fix the issue 100%
No. Absolutely not. Don't ever run Seafoam for that long. Stupid.
@@ragnaroksangel you have absolutely no knowledge of how additives work, seafoam is a de carbonizer and engine oil dispersing agent, it will not in any way do damaged, it reacts to baked on carbon deposits found on piston ring lands, valves, other engine components, eliminating sludge build-up. If carbon is left in an engine it will eventually lead to oil starvation and catastrophic failure.
You can also add 3/4 of a quart or one qt of Marvel Mystery oil and run that it will clean your rings and your lifters . Then when you go to change your oil put the sea foam in and run it for 20 minutes then change your oil
I would also look into replacing the PVC valve. Probably would further reduce the oil consumption
PCV
It usually can be cleaned, and then checked if it works.
If your 1zzfe is anything like the 200,000 mile one I have its severely clogged oil rings and drain ports in the piston. Probably will take several applications to get enough detergent to clean out and reduce oil blow by
Hi Dave, Instead of trying seafoam I used Ametech restorer & lubricant, prior to use I was burning 350 ml of engine oil every 400 miles. After using the Ametech restorer I am been burning no oil at all for the last 3000 miles. Vehicle is a Nissan X-trail 2.2 Diesel. Thanks for sharing the video & hope this message finds you well. Best Regards eze
Thanks for the info, eze!
hello eze, which state are you located?
great video, thank you sir!
Hi Dave,
I did add seafoam on my 2001 Acura CL
Not 4 oz but I put the whole bottle and run it more than 300 miles the result my car is just fine
Normal it is the valve stem oil seals which perish/wear out causing high oil consumption in an engine that age, as well as ring wear/and or sticking issues.
Like I said. Every oil change, pull plugs, seafoam or another brand. Pour in.
Let sit over night. Next day turn over without plugs off and on. Change oil.
Next oil change. Do it again.
You do it until you see no smoke and your oil consumption will go back to normal depending on miles.
Hey Dave, Thanks for the nice video...sorry bit confused...so putting the seafoam in the engine oil has worked? or did you think it was putting in throught the spark plug holes to soak it has worked? cheers.
I don't want to give anything away in the comments Jim, because there are several more videos after this one, but let's just say the saga is continuing.
You should do a compression test to confirm the effectiveness (is that a word?) of your rings.
I've slowed or stopped oil use in many cars/trucks by switching to Shell Rotella T made for diesels.
If you saw an increase in MPG ,then you know you had stuck rings ! AND NOW THEY ARE SEATING GIVING BETTER COMPRESSION !
You should have done the same treatment a second time to ensure that the seafoam treatment cleaned up everything! I have been using seafoam for years in all my gas powered engines and it it an amazing product! it was introduced to me by an auto mechanic that used it for years before I met him! I won't use any pother product now!
Try AT205 Rubber restore. Works well in oil or gas tank or transmission. Helps with seals
I was looking for some AT205 a few weeks ago, Richard, and couldn't get it anywhere... unavailable or out of stock at all the stores online and at my local auto stores (Advance Auto usually carries it where I am). Not sure what the deal is with that. I ended up having to use a Bar's Leak product on another one of my cars. Thanks for the comment!
I used sea foam extensively in my Cadillac cts, to remove carbon build up. It absolutely works, however it has to be used a bit differently, dump your used engine oil, put fresh oil and filter, use around 8 ounces of sea foam instead of 4, you will notice that your clean engine oil turns dark very fast and that Is a good sign, however the vehicles engine must heat up properly during this treatment process (short drives won't heat the oil up enough) change your oil after only 2k to 3k kilometers, and repeat the process over again, it took 4 times back to back, until my complex VVT direct port injection engine was whistle clean.The end result was absolutely no more stuck rings, no more noisy lifters, almost no oil consumption, quite timing chains 👍
How I can get in Dubai?
@@ahmadvlog448 you may have to enquire about other detergent/dispersent type engine oil additives similar to SeaFoam, that are available in Dubai, they all have similar type de-carbonizer properties, that remove potentially Dangerous build up. Worst case scenario, run a light weight diesel motor oil, temporarily, for cleaning carbon, diesel oils have twice the amount of detergent additives, than gasoline oil, but be careful that you don't do damage to the motor because of a higher than normal viscosity index, consult with a mechanic before taking action.
@@brentneves3602 I placed an order & it will be deliver here in Dubai on 21 of Feb,but I just want to know that I have already added Lucas transmission fix in my car transmission,So I have to drain that fluid and add with new one or I can use with the same?
Regarding B12 Chemtool, I would only idle not drive a car with b12. It is very harsh/dry and reduces lubricating qualities of oil a lot. You can probably get away with idling for a long time though. 30 minutes or more for 1/2 of a small can should be fine. Don't add it to a very thin much deteriorated old engine oil, like before an extended oil drain interval, as it may be unsafe then. We want to clean the rings not put extra wear on them. Finding the balance can be tricky.
Reply
I've had a lot of success with less consumption on my 200+k CRV 2003 using Quaker state high mileage full synthetic for a while now
Strong detergent is required, not super diluted sea foam.
I find this video very interesting indeed. However I’ve tried everywhere to get the sea foam where I live. I remember some years ago a very experienced mechanic told me that if you mix paraffin or kerosene oil to cheap engine oil after draining the engine of all the old oil, run the engine for about 30 min. Drain and then refill with good oil, this will clean and free up piston rings also lazy valves. What do you think?
It's definitely possible, Franklyn. I use motor flush in another video, and the label says it's mostly kerosene. th-cam.com/video/h00tNeTEiVg/w-d-xo.html
Seafoam is much better than using a harsh motor flush. I highly reccomend. The only other product I reccomend is marvel mystery oil.
I have a 1nz-fe in an 04 scion, burns a quart every 200 miles (on a good day). 269000 miles, and it's on for about 8 hours a day lyft driving in the san Francisco Bay area. Gonna try this and a little in the spark plug holes based on your experiments, thanks
The success seems to fluctuate. We've done some more videos on this and the oil use at times has been as much as ever. Still working to find the definitive solution. Lot's of advice in the comments though. Some say they've had success using a whole can of seafoam and leaving in for the entire oil change -- I'm not recommending it, nor have I tried it ... yet. We'll see. I hope for the best for you. We're trying to use more expensive "better" products with each experiment... and if none of them work, we plan to do a video of mechanically fixing it ... Thanks for watching, and if you find success with your attempt, please let us know!
I have same car xb I’m replacing the pcv valve and trying this did it work what u do?
Another good video, thanks brother.
Thanks. Glad you enjoyed it.
THANK YOU FOR ALL YOUR WORK. AMD HELP
Thanks for watching!
When I have used flush treatments in the past they have vaguely cured the problem but can cause other problems like crank seals weeping on the engine or valve stem seals. Sometimes the flush will take away the grease and grunge that is helping these seals to hold pressure. Good videos I have enjoyed them thanks.
Great video. A lot informatio
I bought an old Honda ATV what was smoking very bad, got it cheap because of that ! I did the Seafoam treatment through the spark plug hole, crankcase and as an additive in the fuel ! guess what, it completely stopped burning oil ! I change oil every 50 hours, and no oil is missing ! That stuff works !!
you should do this again but with seafoam high mileage< has more detergents in it!, also have you ever tried lucasoil high mileage oil stabilizer?
You did write that stuff works I've used it before on the gorillas and it actually does work I'm actually use the high mileage version of seafoam it works a little bit better because it has more detergent in some cases I use Marvel's Mystery Oil because it's Becker and it works a little bit better in harsh conditions it just put in oil crankshaft can you put 4 oz in the gas tank pat it works wonders
I'm trying Marvel Mystery Oil next! Thanks for the comment, Corey.
You must find out why the engine light is on! A vacuum leak (lean condition) will increase the flow of the pcv valve and you can overcome the liquid vapour(yes spelled correctly) separator and put liquid oil straight into the intake. eliminate that first before chasing consumption.
Agree. Since the vehicle had an oil consumption issue, it's likely a P0420 catalytic converter under-performing code. Cats don't like stuff like oil or carbon buildup on the interior surfaces. Seafoam (or one of the specific cat cleaners) in the gasoline might clear the cat if it's not damaged, simply by dissolving buildup. It might take a treatment or two do to the job. A code reader is the first step.
@@petset77 I got the code that the cat efficiency is below threshold, I think my engine is burning oil but I haven't measured it yet, how would I know if the cat is fixable or not, and how would I fix the burning?
@@HarrisChoudhry, Is your engine using oil? That would be the first place to start looking. My wife's Subaru is the typical over 100k mile oil burner. Oil has to be topped off between changes, and there's no sign of leaks. It also doesn't smoke like cars used to when they burn oil. It's going somewhere, and I think it's out the exhaust. Oil being burned is going to pollute the cat. You can try cleaning it with seafoam or other additives, or if you're willing to try something different, look into the youtube vids of the guys running a gallon of lacquer thinner to ten gallons of gas in the tank. I thought it might cause engine damage, but it didn't on our car. ...it also didn't clear the code, so I might try it again. The only way to check if a cat is physically damaged is to look at the element, and that would be with a borescope, or if it unbolts close to the cat itself. Good luck.
I would say that the "OIL CONTROL RINGS" are what was stuck/unstuck, and not the piston rings. Another comment I have is that the ethanol in the gasoline contains corn syrup. This is very sticky. If you ever disassemble an engine that has been burning fuel that contains ethanol then you will see just how sticky everything inside the engine is. It is like someone spilled some soda pop and left it to evaporate on some surface. The liquid is gone, but what remains is a very sticky substance. And that is what it is like inside your engine. But washing and scrubbing with soap will not remove this sticky substance. I used oven cleaner to remove it. Or take it to a machine shop and have your block boiled in harsh chemicals. If Seafoam works to unstick oil control rings, that is fantastic news.
What? Holy crap. Oil control rings ARE piston rings. Corn syrup? Stop it.
Bravo, great experiment
Thank you very much!
I think its Derick from vicegrip garage pous berrymans down the carbie with engine running and puts it in his fuel tank at refuelling seems to wotk real well, the Italian tuneup.
Good Work Champ, yes does appear to work 100%..is it still working 2 years later?..do you think doing top side contributed to success overall or under is best.?
It seemed to have regressed ... but we found another chemical that worked better later ... still working on getting it back to 100%
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY oh yes i found that out been watching latest video last night.
valves get cleaned too. valves can leak and burn oil.
I think YOU GOT IT; DAVE add 1.5 oz to each QT of oil will not hurt oil Viscosity it mixes well with oil.
change later oil slush and filter every oil turns black.
do not change when its light oil let sea form do it work, when it turns dark.
Maybe taking it apart and cleaning intake valves might help or throttle body.
Wonder what might have happened if you put some directly in the cylinders and soak a couple days plus the crankcase? My 69 Mustang 302 looks like a good candidate.
Use marvel mystery oil is good also
I appreciate your attempts to get the stuck piston ring working properly again. I am wondering what your thoughts are about using B12 in my oil for a few hundred miles before my next oil change. I have a 2006 Camry which has about 250,000 on the clock and is currently using about a quart every 3,000 miles. Any suggestions?
I don't want to suggest something that might ruin your engine. I might drive for 50 or so miles with B-12 in it myself.
I would only idle a car's engine with b12. It is very harsh/dry and reduces lubricating qualities of oil a lot. You can probably get away with idling for a long time though. 30 minutes or more for 1/2 of a small can should be fine. Don't add it to a very thin much deteriorated old engine oil, like before a much extended oil drain interval, as it may be unsafe then.
Did Seafoam worked when added to the oil directly into the engine? I like Seafoam. My 2008 Yamaha motorcycle, 1300 CC, 4 cylinder (just like cars I believe) recently gives blue smoke out of one exhaust pipe. I want to add Seafoam to oil and see if it helps release stuck oil ring!? Any recommendation please? Nice job you did with all those products. I. Your toyota, when you lose that much oil, it cannot be because of stuck oil ring. Stuck oil ring only give blue smoke out. Check the radiator antifreeze if any oil in there. You many have a bad cylinder head. Thanks for good videos.
Thanks Massoud. Hasn’t worked yet for me, but have you heard of Yamaha Ring Free? I think it’s supposed to be for the problem you’re having.
yes but you wont get any further than that i think because it has high chance your block might have been gone because of piston rings destroys the walls overtime specially 200k miles on it 1 tank and lets say you lose half now it is still way too much this is stage 3 oil consumptiıon and that cylinder walls are gone.
Good information Dave. My NC Miata has 125,000 and it is known to have issues with low tension piston rings similar to the Corolla. It was using about 1 quart per 500 miles. After three oil changes and experimenting with Seafoam, Rislone and MMO, oil usage is reduced to 1 quart per 1000 miles. As far as the problem does not get worse, it is worth experimenting with additives and changing the oil every 3000 miles. The oil gets really dirty after 1000 miles though. The additives must dissolve the sludge into the oil. I am about to do the fourth oil change and soak the cylinders with Seafoam as suggested in your earlier video.
Dave, thank you for testing various additives and reporting the results. Any thoughts of adding Rislone to this experiment?
I hadn't heard about Rislone until now. Looks interesting. Also, hearing about your Miata is very encouraging. ... As soon as I finish with the MMO video I'm working on now (if it doesn't work) I've purchased some Motor Flush to try next. I've seen a few threads about Toyota dealerships using some sort of strong solvent in the oil of cars with this problem. If what I read is true, they have something they put in the oil and run for a very short while to help (or maybe clear up) the issue. I guess we'll see. Thanks for the great comment, Tom! and thanks for watching!
I will try that . Good job 👏🙏. Do think I can use sea foam in all my oil changes ?????
Thanks ... you probably can, but you might want to watch my Berryman's B12 video before you try anything! :-)
You need to do all final fills and measurements with the engine warmed up. If you fill it when cold, you will be overfilling it and burn the excess.
Oil expands when warm. Sludge will trap some oil in the galleries, and also has volume of its own. Removing sludge will increase the amount of oil the engine will take in the next fill. Seriously, as well as measuring how much oil you need to add every 320 miles, you need to measure how much oil is needed for a fill after a drain and note how discolored the oil is after your 320 mile drive cycles. When it starts looking clean, check the spark plugs. If the engine is running clean, they will burn off their oily deposits.
Transmission fluid expands when hot, but I have never seen my engine oil level increase or decrease with temperature cycles of the engine. You are mistaken about that.
@@j.t.cooper2963 Yes I concur with you, I have never heard of this before. The only suggestion I can make is that he could have checked the oil level when the car was cold in order to get a correct reading. It takes time for oil to travel back to the oil pan therefore his final reading would have been incorrect, that accompanied by another person's comment here who said he was parked on an incline.
It might not be stuck rings in some cases, worn out crosshatch, ring tension, worn rings, worn cylinders, excessive ring gap, valve seals, clogged pvc or vent cap too many reasons to list
Worth a shot 🤙🏽
I haven’t done the Seafoam yet but my CRV was consuming about a quart every 1,000 miles. I switched from 5w20 to 5w30 from O’Reilly’s to Valvoline,. Each oil has different evaporative loss rates. You may already know this, I did not. So I tried different brands. So far valvoline full synthetic high mileage seems to work best. I also cleaned out the pcv and so far my oil consumption has dropped to half a quart every 1,000 miles. It has 164k so I’m curious to try the seafoam also. Nice video btw. Thanks for doing this.
Thanks for the info and comment, Lupe!
Cleaning your PVC system reduces back pressure on the crank case which reduces pressure on blow by which reduces oil being pushed up through the oil wiper ring on cylinder.
Seafoam/marvels mystery oil/gum out/etc. are a necessary step to free stuck components but reducing the back pressure is also needed to keep it from happening again.
Thanks @@tc4275 . Yeah I think I need to look at my pcv.
I am going to try the Castrol Edge full synthetic as it has been proven to be superior as far as evaporative loss and other properties are concerned. I was a Castrol user in Asia and in Europe, but when I moved to America, it was not easily available and I switched to using other oils - looks like i will be moving back to liquid engineering again!
@@ray32825 Castrol in my experience is best for oil burning engine. Have an 05 Civic burning oil. Used Valvoline synth blend MaxLife & adding 1.5 qts for 3k miles. Used Castrol GTX syn blend & got to about 2-2.3qts for 5k miles needing to be added. Just sucks as engine burning oil you're always throwing money @ it for oil. Think I'm try Quaker State HM oil since it's cheap. Never used SuperTech, so I'm a bit biased there.
There's a section in the manual that explains oil consumption...
Hey brother I'd highly recommend using 1 or 2 grades up thicker oil and engine restore. It won't hurt anything in these older worn out engines. Even the 2010 Prius owners manual says you can use anywhere from 0w-20 to 20w-50 depending on ambient temp. I'd recommend 20w-50 and trying out engine restore. It is known for reducing oil consumption by trying to seal the chamber. I'd recommend you use it with only 20w-50 for the least amount of it going into the chamber and letting it idle for over an hour because higher engine rpm makes oil burning much worse then go off on a long drive.
Also have you tried replacing the pcv valve and air filter. A clogged air filter can force oil through the valve stem seals as well. The pcv valve can help with consumption in a lot of cases as well.
Thicker oil will not fix this problem. He has a toyota 1zzfe, the oil rings and drain holes are clogged. It's extremely common on high mileage engines.
Militec-1 will unstick the rings, clean the engine and permanently coat all the metals with highly effective anti friction layer for life.. No more junk will stick inside the engine afterwards. Use 3oz per QT oil for first oil change then 1oz per QT on next change
Seafoam is absolutely the best for cleaning sludge and oil from an engine. You can keep it in a lot longer than 100-300 miles. I have kept it in for close to 600 miles in a 2001 Ford Escape 3.0 I purchased as a work vehicle, just highway driving. I Seafoamed two different times. After the first, the oil filter weighed close to 3 lbs. Thats alot of sludge. After the second time, I scoped the engine and it was as clean as day one from the factory. 247000kms and it has never ran so good. Burns no oil at all. The best product!!
That's good info. Thanks for posting!
The sea foam cleared the clogged drain holes in the piston behind the oil ring groove
in your 1st video the spark plugs had caked on oil carbon on the tangs. That is a sign of leaking valve seals.
Should seafoam do the same for valves sticking to the valve guides too?
For stuck rings is annoying to deal with I have 2azfe in my car been a fight the last 1.5 year with clogged/stuck oil ring just constantly changing oil with sea foam or oil flush mixed into oil now it's now m9re manageable
Do you recommend this on newer cars as a prevention?