I contacted Berryman's because I couldn't find B12 anywhere, including Walmazon. They sent me a case of 12 free of charge. They also corrected the sitch where Walmart was continually out of it. Berryman's Corporate rocks!
I bet they are just happy to know that walmart was messed up and being able to fix that! Most "supply chain problems" are just getting lost in the shuffle of everyday procurement or other bs.
thanks for making these videos. I have a Tacoma (2TR-FE) that has been burning a quart every 300 miles for a long time. Tried many different things, and was about to have the engine rebuilt when I decided to try this as my final effort. I followed your method (almost) exactly. its been about 2 weeks and almost 700 miles and I've had no noticeable oil loss, and the oil has stayed much cleaner as well. thanks again, looking forward to your update.
Hey Ben I also have a Tacoma at 350k miles and it burns oil also I have my b12 ready to go but have just been waiting for the right time to do this, cuz it’s my daily driver. Out of curiosity how much b12 did you use per cylinder? I know that Berrymans recommended more b12 in V shaped engines. Also did you drive it around with the b12 in the oil or do an oil change immediately? I know some people let it drain and add more oil. I know Kilmer has recommended to be careful running vvti engines with oil additives due to clogging the solenoids and filters. Thanks for your input!
@@luisramos5330 sorry for the late response...I split the can evenly, so maybe about 4 oz per cylinder, then added a little bit more after it'd drain/evaporate. I changed the oil immediately after to be careful, did the 20 miles at high rpm's, then changed the oil again. I've driven about 5000 miles and have had no noticeable oil loss, so I'm pretty impressed with the results.
@@benbarnes6931wow, great results! Thanks for a thorough video on this procedure! Will try this on our 2005 Mazda 3 sport soon. Was kind of hoping to see a scope of the cylinders again after oil seems to have stopped bypassing the rings. Has your oil stayed cleaner longer? Our Mazda’s oil gets dirty quickly I think from blow by on the #1 cyl that seems to have the biggest oil bypass of the rings issue. Thanks!
The experiment likely unstuck the oil control rings and allowed them to expand and do their job. The hint may have been the increased friction you felt when initially turning the engine over by hand. You didn't make a big insurance nightmare of the broken taillight. Thanks for being such a good human.
09/30/2023 : I recently purchased a well maintained,, one owner '06 T0Y0TA Avalon with 107K on it and the first time running it through the "touchless" car wash it did $ 3,300.oo dollars damage to the paint & body down both sides of the car. The only thing supposed to touch the car body is water. I got dents and divets. There WAS an insurance claim.
What part of oil soak doesn’t he understand? He wasted all the chemical is 5 minutes he can crank it the next day… he had so many great chemicals to fix this thing… but he won’t let it soak…..
No that one cylinder was too clean. Even an engine that doesn’t burn oil will have carbon deposits on the top of the piston. It’s a bad head gasket when a cylinder and piston are that clean on an engine with any appreciable mileage.
Chemtool is great stuff. Used it in a 5.0 EFI Fox Body for over 30 years. Kept my TB and injectors wicked clean. That motor got me to almost 350,000 miles AND IT STILL RUNS!
I have a 1988 mint condition LX 5.0 Fox body I once put this stuff in my oil before an oil change but all I did was drive it there after putting it in would you recommend driving it longer with that stuff in the crankcase I was thinking about it but I didn't want to damage anything because this stuff is just so good
Fantastic video. My 2012 Audi Q5 2.0L turbo was burning 1 quart of syn 5w-30 oil every 400 miles and the vehicle only had 65k miles on it! Had a shop check the turbo and that wasn't the problem. The fix was similar to yours... and due entirely to your video: Process: Removed spark plugs and drained oil, added B12 to each cylinder, let it sit for a day (and frequently topped off), boroscoped (plenty of carbon on the piston head and could see oil on the cylinder walls at first), hand turned the engine 90 degrees, repeated the process once a day over a 4 day period. Drained the engine of B12 and replaced with fresh oil and filter. B12 fluid was jet black. Drove the vehicle 25 miles on fresh oil. Smoke was incredible. I'm sure folks thought the car was on fire! Drained and replaced the oil again and replaced the filter. Yup, again oil was jet black. End result: The car now has over 3500 miles on it since the second flush (3rd fill) and it's used less than 1/2 a quart of oil. Fantastic. Cost from beginning to end: One gallon of B12, 3 oil changes (original + 2 more) and 3 filters (original filter + 2more). Cheap and very effective fix. Piston heads clean and apparently so are the ports on the bottom scraper ring that were likely causing the problem. Thanks again!!👍👍👌
I did this on a 1.6 Kia engine. Loosely thread the sparkplugs back in, to stop foreign contamination and evaporation. Don't start the engine with the oil contaminated with Berryman's - it puts the bearings at risk. Dump the oil and change the filter before starting. Fog the cylinders with light machine oil before putting the sparkplugs back in. The engine doesn't want to start because the cylinders are dry, causing a loss of compression. This resolved the oil consumption issues in the Kia.
Great video! I hope you have solved your problem. I noticed that most of the liquid (oil) was pooling to the back of the pistons. Maybe the next treatment could include jacking up the rear of the car to help level the pistons before adding the B12. Thanks for posting.
I have done the same thing many times with my customers vehicles that failed the state required smog test. It has worked every time. I have no idea how much oil consumption has changed, since I never see most of these customers again. From what I can tell, the oil control rings just get gummed up, and fail to work properly. This condition is mainly found with old ladies who drive very slowly around town, and never run on the freeway for very long. I usually just send the Barryman's in as a top engine cleaner, as it is quicker in commercial operation. I have rarely done a full soak, and when I did, I relubricated the upper cylinder with engine oil before starting the engine. I thought you might have hurt the cylinders with a dry start, however, after seeing your after-actin shots, I can clearly see a beautiful cross hatch pattern!!! Most Excellent!!! From what I can see of your oil pattern on the piston heads, I would say that you need some valve stem seals, or perhaps new valve guides, when doing your next valve job. I think your bottom end is good to go!!! Try using some ATF in the engine oil, 500 miles before your next oil change. ATF also cleans piston rings, as ATF has lots of detergents that help removing such things. ATF also makes a great engine flush, but I always fear flushing an unfamiliar engine, as the ATF treatment removes a lot of internal engine gunk and might plug the oil intake screen to the oil pump. That's why I recommend using ATF to top off before the next oil change, as you use less than a quart, and change it before too many miles have accumulated. Proper oil change intervals never require flushes!!! If I slip and go beyond 5,000 miles, the next oil change is done early, at about 2,500 miles, to insure maximum cleaning action from the fresh oil change. I have never let any engine run past 10,000 miles!!! I don't care what the oil or engine manufacturer says!!! I can afford oil and filter, every 5K miles, but an engine rebuild is going to be a bit much for me, at my age, So I take care of basic maintenance, and don't have issues!!! My 2002 Tacoma has 165,000 miles, and still has 170 PSI per cylinder with 5% max cylinder leak down. So, I think good maintenance pays!!! Now if I could just get my IAC's (Idle Air Control) to last that long, as I am on my second one @ $245.00 dollars for an OEM part!!! The only real complaint I have on the 2.4L engine. Good work on your test. A good test is worth 10,000 expert opinions!!! LOL!!! Tim
I had an S10.PICKUP that I put in a 350 with a automatic in it , as a service truck the 4th engine got almost 600 000 miles on it when I removed it to freshen it up. So I took it all apart and took all the pieces to my racing machine shop , everything was within spec and they freaked out on how clean it was , I took it home and freshened it up as planned. It ended up on the drag strip and it won king of the track and king of the hill titles , I used Mobil one and wix filters and oil changes at 20,000miles or when the first quart is used, my current trucks have almost 400,000 miles and I've owned it 23years now the other has 3oo ooo ,I've had it 10yrs now I do the same oil changes with Mobil one and wix.
An old mechanic told me to put a quart of kerosene in the oil and drive it around for a while. He was old at the time, and I was about 16 years old, and now am 75, so you can tell that his knowledge was very old. My old junker had a 292 v8, and the return passages in the heads were clogged, making it a true smoker. I did it, and the next day, when I took off the valve covers, I had a super clean head! I drove that clunker for another five years or so, and it never burned oil again.
292 Ford was actually a pretty good V8. We used to call it a Y block. It bolted our 57 Fairlane w/ 3 on the tree around pretty good considering it weighted more than 4,000Lbs. Pulled a utility trailer real good, got decent gas mileage around 17mpg and lasted a long time. (That took me back.)
@@enermaxstephens1051 i waited until it was a quart low. My car was a very rotted 1958 Ford, and that engine was not at all computer controlled. I don’t think I will be doing this on my 2017 Ford Expedition for fear of blowing the whole thing up. I would not hesitate to do this on any non computer cars though.
@@bmcc12 I'll probably try the similar berryman's method on my 1987 Silverado. It's the first year of the computer, so it will be less computer controlled than newer vehicles. It burns oil too so I figured it would be worth a shot.
@@enermaxstephens1051 that sounds like a plan. I’m not certain that adding kerosene will destroy the newer engines, but why risk it. I will ask you to let me know if it smells like kerosene, because, as a skeptic, I fear that it might BE kerosene! In my case, I was poor, the thing was a HUGE smoker, so I couldn’t lose! Best of luck
Hi Dave, Ive been watching this series primarily because my daughter has a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T. Notorius for stuck piston rings. The car was burning through a quart of oil every 360 miles. About 4 weeks ago I did a 3 day piston soak similar to what you have been doing. I used Berryman's "Professional" Chem Dip. The car has now been driven 800 miles and has not burned a drop of oil. I am extremely surprised at the results and thinking the problem may be fully fixed. If your still having issues with the Toyota give the Berryman's Professional Chem Dip a try.
I have the same car A4 2012 2.0 and burning a quart per ~350. Can’t wait to try this! You just gave me more hope, because I tried other fixes in the past and none worked!
This worked great on my 2013 4 cylinder Venza! Was burning 1 quart roughly every 500 miles. Did the treatment and consumption is down to about a quart every 3000 miles. Can't thank you enough for posting this!
Great video, Ben! Nothing beats B-12! My classic '89 Toyota Camry sat for the last 4 months through the winter waiting for its new Collector's Plate to arrive, and when I finally started it back up, it was running rough as all getout with carbon poofing out of the exhaust pipe every time it missed and stuttered. The car had just under 1/4 tank of gas out of the 15.9 gallons it can hold in it, so it was the perfect time to head on down to O'Reilly's to grab the last 3 cans of Berryman's on their shelf (which was exactly how many I needed for the trick I was about to pull off). Total cost: 20 bucks. Here's what happened: O'Reilly's is 2 blocks from our home. My plan was to go there first, grab the B-12 I'd need to do the job, then continue up HWY 99 at a steady 45 MPH to get the shopping done. 2 cans went into the tank immediately, the rear bumper was bounced for around a minute or so to get it mixed in thoroughly with the 3[ish] gallons left in the tank, and we were on our way. Naturally, it ran like complete crap missing and stuttering and farting carbon for most of the 3 miles it took to get there (I could see the poofs of black smoke in the rearview mirror), but 2 blocks from the store it started to even out some. After we finished shopping and headed back home, it surged a little at first then smoothed right out and ran like a champ. I plan to run it like this until the fuel warning light pops on, at which point I'll add the last can of Chemtool and top the tank off. After that, it'll be good to go again! =D
I watched 6 of the steps last night and was VERY curious as to how this was going to turn out and BAM, new upload today. Great series and I am sure will help many people with this issue for years to come. Well done and documented.
Hi Dave, my I suggest checking your PCV and maybe adding a catch can to verify if the engine is not ingesting oil trough the intake. If the rings are stuck it may cause too much blowby. Good luck.
This worked perfectly for me on a 2006 Rav4 with the 2AZ-FE engine 118k miles Historically this engine used about 1 Qt in around 300-400 miles since about 90k miles, last year I followed the same process as below but used seafoam (per one of your videos too) instead of B12, this gave me 500-600 miles per 1 Qt which was a good improvement. I modified your process slightly by adding Liqui Moly 2037 Engine Flush to my oil prior to changing, ran for 15 minutes, let the engine cool then added the B12 to the cylinder for an overnight soak, next day flushed the oil with cheap oil, then drained and refilled with Liqui Moly 20438 - Molygen SAE 0W-20. its been 600 miles with zero oil consumption. One word of warning using the Berryman B-12 Chemtool, I've read of people running their engine with the B12 in the oil and it destroying the bearings, with this in mind I did not run my engine after the overnight soak, just drained and flushed, so I cant confirm this issue, but for me it was not worth the risk. Thank you so much DIY Dave, your demos and ideas have fixed my engine so much so that I may not need to top up the oil until the next change in 6k miles.
I don't recommend to drive the car after adding any strong cleaning additives in the engine. One can fast idle (1k-2k rpm), repeat the process and change the dose according to the severity of issue
I think the next logical step could be getting an oil analysis to see if you’re getting any metal in the oil after doing that treatment. That would tell if doing stuff like this is truly viable.
I did the same thing on a scion 2.4 it fixed it. I did it with the engine hot and let it soak until it cooled down. Treated it twice in one day. 4 hour soak each time from full hot. Changed the oil no more oil consumption.
Berryman B12 carb cleaner and Chemtool bulk soak were the only products we used for carburetor service and rebuild throughout the 80s well into the 90s. Nothing else cleaned absolutely as well.
I wish someone had told me how to do this long ago when I had a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Same problem, thanks very much for completely showing step by step. You're a good man.
I am preparing to do this on my 2010 Toyota Rav4 with the 2AR FE (notorious for stuck oil rings due to tiny drain holes on the oil rings) with 185k on it. I bought it used a few months ago and it gulps oil down to the tune of 1 quart in 250 to 300 miles. I am excited to see the results! Great video!
Dave - I know you will but please keep us posted. This is amazing...As you know I have been following this series since the start! This would be amazing if it continues to work. Cant wait for an update! THANK YOU SO MUCH for doing this.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY +1, I have an MR2 with a 3SGE and it drinks 1 liter every 1,500 kilometers. I'm so hyped that you have an actual good result finally! Can't wait for the next update.
Wow that was a great vid, and it cleaned up ur engine. Berrymans needs to comp u for all this. This is an excellent promotional video for them. Plus Derek ,Vicegrip Garage is also promoting Berrymans. No wonder there's a supply problem, lol
That was pretty impressive. Look forward to seeing the next video! There are so many people that have this problem. Really well handled on the accident. Too many sue happy people.
Awesome video Dave, I would've hit those cylinders with some compressed air to remove some of those carbon particles, before starting but other than that I like your method.
Compression numbers can be wildly skewed by the oil in the combustion chamber wetting & sealing the rings during cranking. I've seen it on new builds that the rings weren't seating. Burned oil like mad but cranking compression was >200psi
I stumbled across this video by accident but I'm glad I did. I have a 97 corolla dx 1.8 with the same problem so I tried this 2 weekends ago and I'm very satisfied with the results. I was going through a quart a week and now I'm sitting at around 1/3 of a quart in 2 weeks.
Kia and Hyundai have a service procedure similar to that where they inject the cleaning solvent into the spark plug holes let it soak and then pressurize it with a cylinder leak down tester like device to pressurize the solvent and get it into the piston rings. You could try something similar to that with a cylinder leak down tester and berryman's b12 chem tool.
This is exactly the thread comment I was looking for!! Short story - I own a 2012 Veloster that I bought when it was at 68k back in 2018. The engine crapped out on New Year's Day 2022 at 115,775k. I was told the valves had chunks of carbon built up on them which is why it would not run. I paid $800 for a media blast to clear it out, which did the trick, but since then it has been burning oil like witches in Salem and blowing P0420 codes like a crack addict looking to score their next $25 rock.... It has been exhausting to check my oil daily, and run my car on life support since NYE. I am totally fed up with it. I just ordered 4 cans of B12 from Amazon. This is the last thing I'm going to try on my own before taking it into the dealership to get bent over for the $700 for the pressurized solvent cleaning you've mentioned. I am not ready financially to purchase a new car yet, but I will soon if this doesn't work. Prior to this car, I've only ever owned cars that were pre-2002, and I've never ever had an issue with this sort of thing - No one told me I had to spray some cleaner into it every other oil change bc it has a damned GDI engine!!! (Never gonna buy another car with this set up again, if I can help it!) All the money I've saved on fuel efficiency over the years has been spent now on missed days at work, CataClean, engine restorers, and a $10 bottle of oil every 300 miles! I'll post again after trying this method this weekend. After I soak the pistons overnight and hand crank the engine, I'm going to drive it from my place over to the Rapid Oil Change and ask them to do an engine flush before refilling it with new synthetic oil. Glad I have a motorcycle to get around on in the meantime!
@gregorymalchuk272 the valvoline intake cleaner smells like acetone and bubblegum. The chemical we get from Kia is unique smelling. Not sure what it is. They work about the same.
@keithfoco does it really work? Hyundai wants $700 to do this to my wife's car which is burning 9-11 quarts of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. I'm burning up the spark plugs every 20,000 miles and I've gone through 2 catalytic converters on this car. It has 167,000 miles on it and started doing it at around 110,000 miles. Hyundai will do nothing to help me. Also, if this works how long have you seen it last? Their service manager told me I would still burn a quart of oil between oil changes but couldn't tell me if how long the procedure lasts. Thanks.
B-12 is good stuff. You can also use it to wipe the yellow off of headlights. Caution: one pass only using a blue paper shop towel saturated with B-12. Follow up with some Meguires plastic polish to seal it up. Works like a champ on most headlights.
I would have let the B12 soak without turning the engine over the first time, observing if the levels drop. Then turning it over with more B12. Finally putting some oil into the cylinders, turning the engine over, before starting it the first time with all new oil. The B12 did indeed wash the cylinder walls dry.
Thank you for your content on oil burning. I used this trial with B12 on my 97 Honda CR-V. It's been almost 200 miles since I changed the oil and the blue exhaust smoke is only a small fraction of what it was. At idle the blue smoke was horrific. I'm excited to see the results as the clock ticks forward.
Working on my son's TC tonight. I will keep you updated with the results once we complete the 24 hours period. Great video!! thanks for taking the time, step by step.
@@IntegraTypeSPerformance Thanks for sharing! Could you kindly keep us updated on the consumption? @DIY Dave it would be great to pool all these data points in a future video (both pass and fail) to see if this is truely unsticking the piston rings or just luck. Thanks in advance!
The oil pooling ontop of the pistons is a sign that your valve stem seals are leaking. As the engine warmed up the blue smoking decreased significantly. While your piston rings may not be sealing as well as they should if they had failed your vehicle would be smoking under all running conditions. The treatment possibly mixed with the oil and softened the valve stem seals to reduce the oil leaking.
I was thinking the same thing with the valve seal seals leaking after seeing the oil on top the pistons. Dropped down after shutting the engine off. From my experience with Honda engines, valve stem seals done cause a ton of oil consumption though… I’m interested to see what happens with this.
I'm so glad I came across your channel. I did the same to my Kia Forte 2014 and my oil consumption has dropped dramatically, before I needed to had oil after 1000 miles from oil change, but now I think I went to 2500 miles after oil change. I will recommend your channel to everyone one.
I do a similar treatment to my Audi q5 every other oil change. When I purchased the vehicle, it was burning 1 qt every 350 miles. I dont turn the crank though until after it has sat for a couple hours. Currently I am not burning any oil. 5000 miles between oil changes and still pretty much at the full mark. B12 is a god send for most cars that have known issues with clogged oil rings
wow dave! great news. when you posted that you were gonna try b12 i did the same thing to my 99 corolla instead of kreen....a little differently tho. i filled the cylinders and let it sit over night. turned the engine and refilled then let it sit over night again. then i put it back together and test drove. i made it down the block and lost all oil pressure, limped it home and pulled the pan to find the oil screen was clogged with carbon. its running fine now. oil consumption has gone from around a qt per 100 miles to nearly none at 200 miles. still have more driving to do but im hopeful. we will see how it goes
James, thanks for posting. Please repost when you get some miles on your vehicle. I'm sure others would like to know how it holds up. Also, having additional people report their results gives a better idea of what to do, not to do, etc.
@@heitorbernardes7977 as of today ive put around 500 miles on it. changed the oil at 250 miles and found alot of carbon in the filter. changed again at same mileage and alot less carbon in the filter. engine is getting cleaner. no noticeable difference in oil level on the dip stick at oil changes.
I've been following this series too, mirroring your steps each time on my Peugeot which is using a ltr of oil every 1000km. Same success as you so far. Going to see if I can find B12 in Norway and give this a try! Thanks for your videos :)
The key to using B12 as a gas additive and save money while doing good for your engine is to use inexpensive gasoline and a can of B12 as the additive cleaning package every other tank to once a month. Using it every tank is not necessary unless your engine has some specific issue you're trying to fix. Using B12 in this way is how to save money over buying high priced decent gas that has a pretty good additive package (such as Shell). B12 is still a better additive than Shell's Nitrogen additive package as B12 is a dedicated cleaner that's proven, even more so than Mystery oil Lucas and SeaWeed. FUN FACT; B12 is one of the few gasoline additives that actually ignites when flame is put to it. The rest put the flame out.
I can attest through B-12. I have a friend who has Mistubishi. It's a 1989 or thereabouts. He had check engine light. Had various mechanics replace plugs, tune the engine spent hundreds and the light wouldn't go out. This was a several years back. His car inspection was rolling round and he ran across this Berryman-12. After he added the can drove around a bit not knowing what to expect. The check engine light went out and till this day has never come back on . The vehicle has 200k plus miles on it. After that? I start using it myself after each oil change for good measure 😌
Dave, I have never seen that much oil on the top of a piston. I've rebuilt some pretty bad smokers, but never ever took one apart with liquid sitting on any piston. There wasn't even that much oil on the rocker arms. I doubt if heavier oil would make a significant difference, but I'd like to let you in on a dirty little secret: The car companies want you to use thin oil so they can use it on their EPA test. They get better cold start emission and FE performance with light oil but they can't use it on the test unless they advise the customer to use it. Good luck.
Even worse, what the EPA considers to be a 'lifetime' vehicle is 150K miles so the manufacturers design their vehicles to last that long plus the fact they consider burning a 1 quart every 1200 miles as 'acceptable', it's no surprise these cars with the thin oil end up burning oil later in life. The fuel economy benefits of thinner oil are only seen when it's cold or on cold start but otherwise they're imperceptible on a warmed engine.
Saw a report by a Ford engineer on a racing forum some years ago. Ford rec'ds 5W-20 on modular engines. All for CAFE. Guy said they tested longevity with 5W-20 semi synthetuc & 5W-30 full synth. Police & taxi engines lasted 150K miles (significant ring & valve guide wear) & over 250K with little or no wear on the -30 oil. He uses ONLY 5W-30 full synth in his family vehicles & 0W-40 in his race car. Eff CAFE (Corp Avg Fuel Economy) mandated by the Feds. My personal experience mirrors this. -20 yields abt 2MPG better mileage (7%) than higher vis oils. Engine wear much lower with better lubricants. Eff CAFE & the EPA.
I have the 2003 Pontiac Vibe and I think it has the same engine. It consumes oil but I don't track it. My engine has over 310,000 miles on it so I may give this procedure a shot. Thanks for making the video.
That's a dramatic improvement! I'm watching this before trying it on my neighbor's 22RE. No complaint of oil consumption, but low compression and lots of blow-by. If it does half as good as this, I'll be happy.
Have you figured out why the compression is low? Is it guides, seals, valves, piston rings? The 22RE is almost bullet proof other than needing fron or rear main seals replaced like any engine they are easily a 500K mile engine. The 22RE though likes 3000 mile oil changes with 20W50 in warm months and 5W40 or 10W30 in colder months. Nothing kills a 22RE faster than neglected oil changes. I have owned several starting with a brand new 1986 4Runner. I modified the heck out of these engines back in the day. I built one that would turn 10,000 RPM's and was in a daily driver.
@@buckaroobonsi555 I haven't done a leakdown, but the blow-by has me thinking rings. I would not be surprised if it missed a few oil changes. Comp was low enough that I've ordered a new compression tester to confirm. 10k sounds pretty rowdy for a little four-pot!
@@buckaroobonsi555 the guy who taught me about preventing oil consumption occurred in the 1st place his dad had a 22R Toyota pickup with 300k miles, engine have zero oil consumption problem and original seals and gaskets. All he does was change the oil every 3k or 3 months and never fill the oil to to FULL mark (top mark) when engine was cold. Fill it only to the MIDDLE line when cold because oil will expand when it heats up. If u fill it to the top when engine was cold, oil will pass the top mark when it reach operating temperature, if oil pass the top mark when the oil heats up, that’s overfilled. Then u will starting seeing all kind of seals and gaskets leaking problem because hot oil needs to go somewhere inside the motor. Too much oil pressure will cause gaskets and seals break prematurely. Modern engines require 5k OCI or every 6 months in order to prevent stuck oil control rings from happening regardless of what the manufacturer said to change oil at 8k, 10k, 15k and no matter u have low tension ring, high tension ring, good piston design or not.
@@yurifloripa6968 I started wondering how the engine was running as well as it was with the comp that low, bought a new tester, and found that it was actually fine--my old tester was just reading low for some reason. Didn't give the Berryman's a go. Good luck with your 5L!
I worked in the auto business for 45 years, sold many Berryman's products. Zero complaints for any of their products. Can't say this for many of the other products manufactured by others.
Mr Dave, I want to thank you for all for your time and experience. Your piston soak video just saved me a ton. I have a 2015 Audi A5 2.0t, it has 170250 miles, somewhere after 120,000kmiles it started burning about a quart of oil every 700 miles and gow worse as the miles increased. On average I drive 95 miles a day round trip to work, here recently I was adding a quart every 250 miles. By this point I had come across your videos and was contemplating trying some different oil additives. Last weekend I took a 200 mile round trip, I topped off with a half quart. Made it to my destination but the add oil indicator lit up. I checked and was a quart low, topped off and handed home. 65miles into the trip the indicator went off, I sat for 10 mins and true enough, a quart low.. long story short, I did the piston soak Sunday and Monday. Today I've gone 450 miles with less than a 1/4 of a quart burned!! I am beyond excited!!!
Hey Dave, just a quick update. I've driven 1500 miles since the piston soak and I have not burned a half quart of oil yet. It has burned some but it's probably close to 1/4 of a quart. Thanks again!!!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You laugh, but a new set of shocks/struts when the old ones are worn out makes all the difference in the world for driving pleasure. And you don;t need to spend a lot of $$$. KYB does the trick.
Thank you for your work Dave. I wanted to share my amazing piston soak results!! My Audi Q5 (2012, 103k miles) was burning a quart every 230 miles like clockwork. I did a chickens*** version - used about 1 1/4 cans of B-12. I started with 75 ml in each cylinder, hand cranked just a few rotations (I know I’m lazy), waited 6 hours and added more, repeating the light hand cranking. After 24 hrs, we added about a 1/2 quart of oil to the crankcase to make it full (started 1 qt. low) and cranked it up. Rough start, took a few tries, but no CEL or misfiring. I drove it gently 10 minutes to the oil change shop - no revving or highway driving. I’m at 1100 miles now and the oil indicator is barely below full. No other products were used. I can’t believe it! Thanks again!
I used this video as a guide and did roughly this process on my Gen 2 Prius. The results have been phenomenal. Previous to the piston soak and hard drive my car was using 2 quarts oil every 3K miles. After piston soak with B-12 I used less than half a quart in the same 3K oil change interval. Amazing! Wish I had ran in to this process 80K miles ago. Thanks Dave!!! Much appreciation!
I was watching many of your videos prior to this.. had a mr2 1zzfe and it burned a lot of oil. Mmo, seafoam, gearbox oil . Tried it all and never worked, if I still had the car I would try this. Glad you sorted the issue.
Glad it appears to have worked. I would have done a flush of the cylinders to remove that gunk and debris after the treatment along with an oil/filter change prior to the 20 minute drive. Also, in an attempt to clean up what is still left on the pistons, toss a can of that B12 in the fuel tank, see if that burns out those last remnants. 👍🏻
In my opinion this would be the best way. Unfortunately, I'm quite sure compression was harmed during this. Also to get all the B12 out of the oil, after such treatment (before the 20min drive) an Diesel engine specific oil could be used + new oil filter - those have much stronger carbon cleaning ingredients that are safe for the engine. + B12 in the fuel tank After the 20min intensive ride replace with premium correct spec Oil + Filter.
Hey there! I’ve been using Berrymans for quite a while. I threw a can in every other tank sometimes I’ll toss a couple cans in helps. Keep the valves your fuel system injectors, clean. Berryman B12 is absolutely the best.!!!! Highly recommend to everyone I know. Cool video. Thanks for sharing.
A great way using the original b12, not the one specified as specifically fuel injector cleaner, is to pull the spark plugs out, put between 3 and 4 oz into the top of each cylinder with the block temp around 130 F, and then put the spark plugs back for sealing purposes. Come back after after a few hours, remove the spark plugs again, check (use boroscope) to see how much fluid was lost, add a little bit if any cylinder does not have the entire top of the in piston covered, stuff a rag into each spark plug well (not into the cylinder!), crank the engine over 15-20 seconds. Remove rags, use a manual pump to remove all liquid from cylinders, replace plugs, start engine. Run it at idle (a conservative rpm under 2000 if it won't immediately idle well due to the garbage in the cylinder) for 5-10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Use a cheaper oil, but not complete garbage. Change oil again (use good oil) after 500 miles (unless turns very dark before that). Check your oil burning. Should have decreased dramatically.
I followed this to a T for my 2010 scion xb that was burning 1.5 quarts every 350 miles or so. Now at 700 miles after doing this protocol and no oil loss. Thank you for explaining this in such a thorough way!
I am really glad it worked out for you! Every time you fill up the fuel tank pour in a bottle of cleaner to let the cleaning continue. Works great for cleaning injectors, intake valves (as long as it’s not direct injection), and to free stuck rings.
is cleaners not good for direct injection cars? i just used some lucas oil upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner on my car(the stuff you put in fuel tank). plz dont tell me its bad
@@flute136 It’s not going to hurt anything it’s just not going to help keep the intake valve clean because the intake valve doesn’t get cleaned by the the fuel because it just controls the air going into the cylinder.
This will turn your spark plugs into nasty looking hot garbage. You'll have to change them out more often. Not a problem if they're easy to get to, but some vehicles are terrible anymore.
Try cleaning the plugs, or installing a new set. You said the engine was missing at 60 mph on that 20 to 40 mile test run. I have used spray intake valve clean thru the intake throttle, and that alone improved on my emissions test greatly, as per the technician comments for my 21 yo 2002 Ford Ranger XLT with 175,000 miles. I use Seafoam fuel additive too, and I never had to replace the injectors. I also use seafoam in the oil crankcase as per instructions, that has made the engine run more smooth and a lot more quiet. That engine doesn't use or burn any oil whatsoever. I just traded that truck in on a 2023 Chevy Colorado, I waited 3 months for that delivery. Being retired, I drive under 3,000 mile per year. Good luck on your Toyota's oil consumption and enjoy it's great gas mileage. You did good by the way!
The area of the piston rings and grooves is one of the most challenging parts that a motor oil's formula must protect. This engine with low tension piston rings combined with limited or very small holes in the piston oil control ring grooves or "ring lands" creates a challenge to average oils. To keep the piston rings free and the oil return holes open behind the oil control rings, an oil of high or highest quality is what is needed. First off, a synthetic oil can deal with these challenges better due to better resistance to highest temps in this piston area near the combustion chamber. But there are all levels of quality in synthetics. Mobil 1's best EP oils help here as do Castrol's best Extended Performance synthetics. If you really want the best protection, consider Amsoil's best Signature Series oils. Had your engine been run on this oil it's whole life, even at 15,000 mile oil change intervals or longer, you would not be trying to lower oil consumption on this engine. I know this with personal experience. No I am not an Amsoil Dealer, but I have been impressed with their product performance over the years.
I have a Volvo T6 Polestar that burns about one quart per thousand miles with 90,000 miles on the odometer. This issue is not a secret to Volvo owners. It has been maintained at the dealer since it was brand new, with no oil change exceeding 5,000 miles. The dealer only uses Castrol Synthetic. I am evaluating whether to try the B12 treatment as done here, as there should not be any reason for this engine to be burning oil except for low quality rings when it was built.
@@frankmc2602 did u change the oil every 6 months? Or every 5000 miles? Oil needs to be change every 6 months or twice a year. Rather u reach 5000 miles or not, but for some people only drive 5000 miles a year so they stick with the 5000 miles rule, change it when it reach 5000 miles but never realize it’s been a year old that 5000 miles oil was in your engine collecting fine deposits and particulates that can ruin and clog your oil ring and holes. Your car burns oil because manufacturers went to low tension rings that created less friction for efficiency years ago and extended oil change interval over 6 months to 8 months or 1 year. if u keep the oil in your engine for too long, let’s say over 6 months, nothing high quality oil can help u. High end quality oils like amsoil or redline, Royal purple has higher than average grade detergent additives and high level of ZDDP contents in them. Which translates to clean so well and protect so well…BUT since their oil clean so well, it ended up a lot of deposits from oil combustion vapor in them, thus they trends to be becoming black contaminated really fast. This will also clog the oil filter faster than normal as well. The correct way to extended oil change interval was change oil filter every 3000 miles rather u use high end oil filter or not. 3k is the maximum life a any oil filter. Then u can extend the oil change to 8k, or 10k but change the oil filter every 3k to keep deposits out of your engine oil. (I don’t recommended because I don’t believe in extended oil change interval anymore) R u sure your dearship using Castrol synthetic for oil change? Did u see them put in the oil with your own eyes? I asked because I know dealership claimed to use certain oils but in fact, they use the cheapest oil they can find for servicing your car then charge u the cost of the oil they claimed they will be using. It’s a known practice thru out dealerships that the techs and mechanics will always end up with piles of FREE oils left over in the shop for themselves because customers paid for them but it’s not needed for their oil change becuase it’s never use. Also drive your car hard at times help burn off deposits in the piston ring as well. People who track their car will always have a healthy engine than people who just drive their car normally and don’t rev the rpm pass 4000. Because gasoline is a VERY VERY good cleaner itself. (It’s strong enough to strip off paint and rust) so it’s a good carbon cleaner. When u drive at high rpm, u put your foot down the gas pedal, injector will inject MORE gasoline into the combustion chamber and high rpm means piston travel up an down at high speed which creates higher than normal HEAT. So high amount of gasoline meets high mount of heat and speeds = bye bye carbon buildup.
This why I always used an engine flush before changing my oil , Amsoil or Liqui-Moly . Now I have tried BG EPR twice and for the third and last time soon . Then back to Amsoil or Liqui-Moly .
Dont forget that on the initial crank rotation cyl 1 & 3 shot a bunch of Berrymans out and onto the firewall.. That might explain why 2 cylinders were dry even though you added some on top of the initial treatment..
Easiest way I found is to run the engine, shut it off and pull the plugs after letting it cool a bit. Pour B12 don the cylinders and go home for the night. Next morning spin it over, put plugs back in, and add some B12 to crankcase (not much). Drive down the road about 10 miles each way and then do an oil change. The oil will be black, and the rings will be freed up. I'd suggest you use the B12 to clean the intake system either with an intake cleaning kit or just slowly pouring it down the throttle body until it sputters and drowns itself. Let it soak for a few hours or overnight and then slap fresh plugs in it and go drive.
B12 used to have instruction on the side for use in Fuel System and Crankcase for decades. I think if I remember correctly it used to recommend 1/2 pint of B12 Chemtool per 4 quarts of crankcase capacity. You would not drive it but you would let it idle with no load before oil change for 20-30 minutes at 2000 rpms. I used to use 1 pint per 4 quarts capacity in really dirty engines. This was around 1991 or 1992. I never had any issues. I did it to many friends cars as well. I did not start doing piston soaks though on non-siezed engines until about 2001. When I would replace platinum or double platinum plugs I would pour some B12 in and let things soak then crank the engine latter reinstall the plugs. I was working at General Motors and a lot of cars where having oil consumption issues and piston carbon issues. It just seemed like cheap insurance every 50K miles to do this. Likewise 1 tank of fuel before oil changes I would toss in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Again not solving any issues more just trying to prevent any. Slowly more and more companies European, Domestic and Japanese started to develop issues with oil consumption, sludge and carbon.
My brother you’re still working on that car, you have to be the most persistent person I ever seen. That’s good for you brother that’s a good quality to have
We would use automatic trans oil in the oil to clean the sludge and buildup, it also softens the seal to help with oil leaking. 1/2 quart to 5 qts of engine oil
I was brought an outboard motor (Mercury/Tohatsu 20hp) a year ago. The customers complaint was that it suffered midrange to high RPM power. One of the first things I do when diagnosing is take compression readings. Both cylinders were extremely low on compression, but my endoscope showed cross hatch marks in the cylinders. My first thought was “blown head gasket”. Imagine my surprise when I drained the oil, and it came out in chunks! I made a video of this and posted it on my channel, along with what I did, then the aftermath. Long story short, besides disassembling the powerhead of the outboard, and cleaning it all out, I drained the oil, spun on a “sacrificial” filter, refilled the crankcase with a combination of Berryman’s, and 10W-30. I ran the outboard at an idle for the next hour or so, then dumped the oil/Berryman concoction. Took off the filter, and cut it open. Sludge, sludge, and more sludge! The Berryman’s and fresh oil cleaned up the inside of the engine, cylinders, and compression came back up to around 140psi. I’m not much a fan of “mechanic in a bottle” type products, but Berryman’s was the key in preventing my customer spending close to $1000 for me to tear down, clean, reassemble his engine, versus just running Berryman’s through it till the filter caught all the sludge. One thing to note, oil filters DON’T work like you think they do. I ran that engine at an idle due to the fact that at higher RPM higher oil pressure, the filter would most likely by-pass, and the sludge would just wind up back inside the crankcase. Love the video, even though I’m a year or so late on seeing it.
Thank you so much Dave, excellent series! I think you have given may of us out here some hope. I came across your channel looking for a solution to the same issue on my 2009 Toyota Matrix with a 2AZ FE engine. My engine's oil consumption is not as sever as yours but it still is concerning (1 qt/1200 miles). However, before I try Berrymans I am going to use Seafoam in the crank case before each oil change (3K miles) and see if that works. It is a lttle milder. I worry that Berrymans could damage the crank case seals. You now have one more subscriber. Please keep us posted.
Update: I ended up doing the same experiment as you did with Berryman's B12. After running at redline, or close to it, for about 35 miles and then draining the oil, there was a lot of sludge and carbon deposits present in the oil. I then added fresh synthetic 5W-30 oil and installed a new filter. Two things that I did different than you in the oil change is I added 2 oz. of Seafoam in with the fresh oil - your Seafoam experiment did show some temporary improvement - and added 5 oz. of SFR oil additive which I use regularly in all of my engines. I than drove the car as normal (approx. 65% highway, 35% city). I added another 3 oz. of Seafoam to the oil with 500 miles remaining before the next oil change. I checked the oil level regularly with very little oil consumption and after 3260 miles I only burned approximately a 1/2 quart. I then changed the oil again adding the 2 oz. Seafoam and 5 oz. SFR. Hopefully the oil burning will remain low. Thank you for your video, I definitely helped me!
I've user chemtool for over 50 years on everything from final parts prep befpre assembly of surfaces, nothing even get's close to it's cleaning power ! also good in fuel tank. put a can in a 1/4 tank and feel the difference ! Great Stuff !
B12 is a great product the extra oil your seeing on the pistons is the kerosene additives that didn't fully evaporate this is normal as the oil is slightly thinner in viscosity personally I would have driven a little while longer but great test and you really can't argue results
Okay I got results after one full tank of gas. I have no oil consumption after the B12 piston soak!!!!! This thing has burned oil as long as I've owned it since 2018 and just got gradually worse and now no pucks of blue smoke or anything. Thanks for doing this dave. I'm still going to run my cleaner through it but I'm going to get some life out of the oil first! I'm using 5w30 Mobil 1. Also did you know these engines have been backspecced to 0w-30 and 5w-20? A thinner oil after this soak may help with the issue of the drain holes.
@EricVonHunter Better additive pkg matters - not the weight. I use Castrol 0W-40 or Rotella T6 15W-40 (yeah, diesel oil) in my gas engines. Castrol preferred but Rotella available locally (Wallies & Autozone no longer stock 0W-40 Castrol in 5qt jug - cheaper). GREAT oils & additive pkgs.
I was hoping you crank the engine to remove all liquid before installing the spark plugs! Hopefully all the seals didn’t get harden from the B12 Chemtool because of the rate of evaporation! I would probably drain the oil before the test drive!
This cured my 2010 Scion XB i was burning a 1/4 of a quart every 200miles sometimes a quart every 300 some miles after doing the piston soak with this i havnt even burned 1/4 of a quart after 963miles but getting close. Its a miracle cure i tell you, a rebuild your engine for $8 dollars 🥳
B-12 is the only chemical with a "poison" label in the bottle ... that should tell you something ... instead of following up with regular oil .. just add marvel mystery oil after treatment and then do your oil change ... then add "stp" oil "basic or simple" to help raise the oil pressure ... it worked for me ... former fleet mechanic ...
First off you have to dump that saturated dirty oil your bearings are screaming Second off you don’t rev a cold engine ever next you should always follow the cleaning with marvel to replace the lubricant you washed off the walls 50 years ASE master automotive Technician Fyi if you drive like grandma your more than likely to accelerate the carbon building process
@@dennisd1778 my rodeo was sitting 8 months so before running I'm planning on putting 8 oz of MMO in my crankcase with a new oil change, and 8oz in the fuel tank. My Rodeo never had that common tapping that is common with that 3.2 motor but I'm sure hoping it doesn't start. I also have a brand new bottle of Berryman chemtool. Any other advice?
You don't really want to thicken up the oil on cars with variable valve timing. V.V.T. The oil passages are very small that control the VVT. That's why most new cars recommend 0W 20 or something similar. And a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case does a lot of good before your next oil change.
Great to see! I would still try some ester motor oil to help clean the ring lands more, you may also need to repeat a few months in the future, it's done something, but we don't know for certain if it fixed the issue or simply did just enough to be noticeable and more can be done. Still though, encouraging, and surprising. Also, you don't want to drive with this stuff in the motor period, it use to be labelled for motor flushes as well, it's very aggressive, I wouldn't more than idle it with the stuff in the motor.
No. The only way this worked it’s because of the redlining for 20 mins. The engine needs actual “load” and high rpm in order to free up the piston rings! Idling WILL NOT work. Driving for 20mins won’t hurt anything because u r gonna drain the oil after anyway
@@blackysan It works by dissolving the carbon around the rings, sure redlining 'could' help remove some of the carbon, but its still driving around at high RPM with a legitimate motor flush. Berrymen actively discourages using the vehicle with it in the crankcase, its not a light solvent. Piston soaking isn't anything new, and I've never heard anyone anywhere recommending folks red line a motor with a flush in it. Piston soaks work perfectly fine without running the motor at all and draining the oil. Telling folks to do such is borderline malicious, it 'could' help but if it spins a bearing its not your problem.
@@GainingDespair I’ve did this to my own car and I was the guy he mentioned in his video that suggested this method to him and now he did it himself as well. both of us and numerous others have no issues with redlining with b12 in engine so I have yet see anyone have bearing issue with it. But again, if u don’t feel safe, don’t do it. If u want result, don’t be concern about it. All I’m saying is that idling the car without actually driving and redlining it will not work. Done that and still oil rings still not free. After redlining the car with b12, oil rings finally free
@@blackysan and Last Hope: He revved it pretty high, but did not redline it. He said 4600 rpm. My 2004 Vibe, 1ZZFE redlines at 6,400 rpm. I'm not saying that it seems like a good idea. Anyone have success without revving it, or revving it less? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
@@duffman6675 as long as u run it at high rpm, u will see results like that because that’s how it supposed to work, burn off anything that’s in the piston rings land and oil return holes. If u don’t want to run the engine at high rpm with the chemical in it, then u might have to do the chemical soak multiple times until u see result. Keep on doing the soak every time u change the oil until u see result. I highly doubt that gonna happen coz I’ve tried all kinds of chemicals (sea foam, mmo, motor flush, carb cleaner…etc) with it and none of them works by just piston soaking or run it in crankcase. B12 with high rpm driving for 20 mins did the trick just one time! Immediate result! Learned that from googling it from forums to forums reading thousands of testing
I can tell your not a mechanic! I use to do this on Chevy V8's because of carbon knock. First of all add the cleaner and do not rotate the engine then after a over night soak with the coils power disconnected use a shop towel to cover the engine and then crank it over with no spark plugs to purge the carbon from the cylinders then ( CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL & FILTER ) before driving it because all of that chemical has leaked past the piston rings and is now in the crank case destroying the bearings.
I would not use acetone nor mix it, it may cause a toxic chemical or cause damage to the piston ring or cylinders. Stick to the pre-mixed stuff even thought it may cost more.
I would use a quart of oil every tank of gas with my 2008 Scion xB. I put two cans of Berrymans in an almost empty tank of gas and drove it two days about sixty miles and don’t use any oil anymore. 👍🏽
My Dodge neon non-turbo used to burn oil and smoke at start up before using Valvoline high mileage synthetic. After using the oil for several changes the smoke stopped.
@@theoriginaljimmykicker i tried it a few months ago, consumption went down like 50%, a bit better than before, but i also it burns less if i dont fill it to the full mark
Transmission fluid. Mix one to one and a half liters of transmission fluid with three and a half to four and a half liters of your recommended motor oil and drain after a few days of running or until the signs of burning oil and noise making dissipates
It would have been a good idea to have drained the clean oil first into a clean container to reuse after your treatment. Also should have tried to blow as much crap as possible with compressed air through the spark plug holes and a rag over the holes to catch debris. Then drain whatever chemical had accumulated in the oil pan and maybe flush with some diesel or ??? before adding back the uncontaminated oil.
I’ve watched all of the series for oil burning products and am amazed at how well this treatment worked for you. I have a first gen Scion xB (1nz-fe) 1.5l and uses about a quart per tank fill up (290-310miles). I’ve tried many uses of chemicals in the gas and oil and nothing helps. I’ve band aided it with much thicker oil for a while and replaced my pcv valve and that helped for a short bit but now it back to burning like crazy. I purchased two cans of B12 but didn’t realize till I got home that they are the break clean spray style. Well I’ll still try it anyhow! Will update in a week
Update: Engine was not happy at all. Took roughly 7 minutes of off and on cranking to start after the treatment. When I first pulled the plugs to put b12 in each cylinder, I noticed that each plug was completely covered and dripping with engine oil(hot engine after 45min to cool before experiment). The treatment was so aggressive that it rid of all my compression and would not start at all. Every bit of fuel that was use to start the vehicle was found later in my oil. After cranking for about 5 minutes with no signs of it trying to start, removed plugs, gapped and cleaned plugs, added some atf to each cyl to help bump the compression enough to start. I was then able to get it to start but hardly. Engine would not run in its own at this point. Held rpm arojnd 3k to stay alive and the hotter engine got, worse it ran. I can only assume that as the oil got warm, the gas that was mixed with it was putting off fumes that were making engine run rich. Next day pulled plugs and had to clean them again and then perform oil change. Performed compression check (1:180,2:150,3:160,4:180). This is much better than it was a few years back when I had gotten the vehicle. I used a scope to look in each cylinder as you had done in one of your videos and found slight scoring in cyl3 and major scoring in cyl2. I have since filled up on premium and just now filled up again on regular fuel. Oil consumption is still right on the money 1quart per tank (roughly 290-310miles). This engine has had a very rough life, that I was aware of, but doing this experiment was basically ripping off a bandage with no idea what was under it and this has shed light in the fact that I need a engine for it now. I am still driving vehicle every day. Does not run as well as it did before I did all this, but it runs well enough for now check engine light and it is what it is.
@@richolishis94 I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you, and I really appreciate you sharing your experience. More data for folks to mull over. Thanks again Richie.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've had the same thing happen on an old Cadillac 472 - I sprayed carburetor cleaner down the carb while the engine was running and it cleaned so much carbon off of the rings that the engine would barely start afterwards (it permanently messed-up the engine, I pulled the heads, reground and adjusted the valves, and did everything possible to save it w/o rebuilding the short block, without success). Lesson learned: be careful using these types of products on old, tired engines. Sometimes the gunk is the only thing keeping the engine running and the oil inside of it!
Great results ! I have had similar results using a 20% ratio added In the oil of HyperLube, with also great results. My vehicle(s) 4.6l ford was using about 1qt of oil every 1k miles and after keeping the 20% Hypelube they (actually of them) only used a very small amount of oil at the 5k oil change interval. Seems todo a good job of keeping the rings & ring grooves very clean. Good product !
Hyperlube and Lucas are not good. They are just cheap "Bright Stock" they can gum up piston rings on engines that do not have issues with piston rings. If you need a heavier oil use a heavier oil not only is that cheaper but it is less likely to gum up the rings.
I contacted Berryman's because I couldn't find B12 anywhere, including Walmazon. They sent me a case of 12 free of charge. They also corrected the sitch where Walmart was continually out of it. Berryman's Corporate rocks!
Wow that’s amazing
That's so cool! Thanks for sharing!
I love their products.
Had no problem getting it. I blame supply chain problems.
I bet they are just happy to know that walmart was messed up and being able to fix that! Most "supply chain problems" are just getting lost in the shuffle of everyday procurement or other bs.
thanks for making these videos.
I have a Tacoma (2TR-FE) that has been burning a quart every 300 miles for a long time. Tried many different things, and was about to have the engine rebuilt when I decided to try this as my final effort.
I followed your method (almost) exactly. its been about 2 weeks and almost 700 miles and I've had no noticeable oil loss, and the oil has stayed much cleaner as well.
thanks again, looking forward to your update.
Great to hear, Ben! Please do keep us posted on your usage.
Hey Ben I also have a Tacoma at 350k miles and it burns oil also I have my b12 ready to go but have just been waiting for the right time to do this, cuz it’s my daily driver. Out of curiosity how much b12 did you use per cylinder? I know that Berrymans recommended more b12 in V shaped engines. Also did you drive it around with the b12 in the oil or do an oil change immediately? I know some people let it drain and add more oil. I know Kilmer has recommended to be careful running vvti engines with oil additives due to clogging the solenoids and filters. Thanks for your input!
@@luisramos5330 sorry for the late response...I split the can evenly, so maybe about 4 oz per cylinder, then added a little bit more after it'd drain/evaporate.
I changed the oil immediately after to be careful, did the 20 miles at high rpm's, then changed the oil again.
I've driven about 5000 miles and have had no noticeable oil loss, so I'm pretty impressed with the results.
@@benbarnes6931wow, great results!
Thanks for a thorough video on this procedure!
Will try this on our 2005 Mazda 3 sport soon.
Was kind of hoping to see a scope of the cylinders again after oil seems to have stopped bypassing the rings.
Has your oil stayed cleaner longer?
Our Mazda’s oil gets dirty quickly I think from blow by on the #1 cyl that seems to have the biggest oil bypass of the rings issue.
Thanks!
Awesome
The experiment likely unstuck the oil control rings and allowed them to expand and do their job. The hint may have been the increased friction you felt when initially turning the engine over by hand. You didn't make a big insurance nightmare of the broken taillight. Thanks for being such a good human.
09/30/2023 : I recently purchased a well maintained,, one owner '06 T0Y0TA Avalon with 107K on it and the first time running it through the "touchless" car wash it did $ 3,300.oo dollars damage to the paint & body down both sides of the car.
The only thing supposed to touch the car body is water.
I got dents and divets. There WAS an insurance claim.
What part of oil soak doesn’t he understand? He wasted all the chemical is 5 minutes he can crank it the next day… he had so many great chemicals to fix this thing… but he won’t let it soak…..
the fact that the other guy instantly venmo'd him the money shows how well of a guy the other person was too. good job
With one cylinder being super clean it usually means some antifreeze is leaking in through the head gasket and it gets steam cleaned.
nice catch
Not all the time sometimes it just means that one cylinder isn't burning oil at all
@@davidarnold6647carbon deposits from fuel suggest otherwise.
No that one cylinder was too clean. Even an engine that doesn’t burn oil will have carbon deposits on the top of the piston. It’s a bad head gasket when a cylinder and piston are that clean on an engine with any appreciable mileage.
Ore, it's just extra clean, lol 😂
Chemtool is great stuff. Used it in a 5.0 EFI Fox Body for over 30 years. Kept my TB and injectors wicked clean. That motor got me to almost 350,000 miles AND IT STILL RUNS!
I have a 1988 mint condition LX 5.0 Fox body I once put this stuff in my oil before an oil change but all I did was drive it there after putting it in would you recommend driving it longer with that stuff in the crankcase I was thinking about it but I didn't want to damage anything because this stuff is just so good
Fantastic video. My 2012 Audi Q5 2.0L turbo was burning 1 quart of syn 5w-30 oil every 400 miles and the vehicle only had 65k miles on it! Had a shop check the turbo and that wasn't the problem. The fix was similar to yours... and due entirely to your video:
Process: Removed spark plugs and drained oil, added B12 to each cylinder, let it sit for a day (and frequently topped off), boroscoped (plenty of carbon on the piston head and could see oil on the cylinder walls at first), hand turned the engine 90 degrees, repeated the process once a day over a 4 day period. Drained the engine of B12 and replaced with fresh oil and filter. B12 fluid was jet black. Drove the vehicle 25 miles on fresh oil. Smoke was incredible. I'm sure folks thought the car was on fire! Drained and replaced the oil again and replaced the filter. Yup, again oil was jet black.
End result: The car now has over 3500 miles on it since the second flush (3rd fill) and it's used less than 1/2 a quart of oil. Fantastic. Cost from beginning to end: One gallon of B12, 3 oil changes (original + 2 more) and 3 filters (original filter + 2more). Cheap and very effective fix. Piston heads clean and apparently so are the ports on the bottom scraper ring that were likely causing the problem. Thanks again!!👍👍👌
Just replace the oil separator on top of the valve cover .
Old mechanics have been using B12 chemtool for years, on a hot soak, for just such problems. Best stuff out there.
I did this on a 1.6 Kia engine.
Loosely thread the sparkplugs back in, to stop foreign contamination and evaporation.
Don't start the engine with the oil contaminated with Berryman's - it puts the bearings at risk. Dump the oil and change the filter before starting.
Fog the cylinders with light machine oil before putting the sparkplugs back in. The engine doesn't want to start because the cylinders are dry, causing a loss of compression.
This resolved the oil consumption issues in the Kia.
What do you mean by "fog" the cylinders?
Those are great tips. I watched this video because I’m working on a 1.6L Kia. Thanks for adding that info.
@@JshMusician mist
@@busybodyblake4050 how to achieve this with oil?
@@stretch8390a clean spray bottle and light machine oil
My dad was GM line mechanic for years. He would often say, "B12 ought to be good to drink, because it's good for everything else!"
Great video! I hope you have solved your problem. I noticed that most of the liquid (oil) was pooling to the back of the pistons. Maybe the next treatment could include jacking up the rear of the car to help level the pistons before adding the B12. Thanks for posting.
I have done the same thing many times with my customers vehicles that failed the state required smog test. It has worked every time. I have no idea how much oil consumption has changed, since I never see most of these customers again.
From what I can tell, the oil control rings just get gummed up, and fail to work properly. This condition is mainly found with old ladies who drive very slowly around town, and never run on the freeway for very long.
I usually just send the Barryman's in as a top engine cleaner, as it is quicker in commercial operation. I have rarely done a full soak, and when I did, I relubricated the upper cylinder with engine oil before starting the engine.
I thought you might have hurt the cylinders with a dry start, however, after seeing your after-actin shots, I can clearly see a beautiful cross hatch pattern!!! Most Excellent!!!
From what I can see of your oil pattern on the piston heads, I would say that you need some valve stem seals, or perhaps new valve guides, when doing your next valve job.
I think your bottom end is good to go!!!
Try using some ATF in the engine oil, 500 miles before your next oil change. ATF also cleans piston rings, as ATF has lots of detergents that help removing such things. ATF also makes a great engine flush, but I always fear flushing an unfamiliar engine, as the ATF treatment removes a lot of internal engine gunk and might plug the oil intake screen to the oil pump.
That's why I recommend using ATF to top off before the next oil change, as you use less than a quart, and change it before too many miles have accumulated.
Proper oil change intervals never require flushes!!!
If I slip and go beyond 5,000 miles, the next oil change is done early, at about 2,500 miles, to insure maximum cleaning action from the fresh oil change.
I have never let any engine run past 10,000 miles!!! I don't care what the oil or engine manufacturer says!!!
I can afford oil and filter, every 5K miles, but an engine rebuild is going to be a bit much for me, at my age, So I take care of basic maintenance, and don't have issues!!!
My 2002 Tacoma has 165,000 miles, and still has 170 PSI per cylinder with 5% max cylinder leak down. So, I think good maintenance pays!!! Now if I could just get my IAC's (Idle Air Control) to last that long, as I am on my second one @ $245.00 dollars for an OEM part!!! The only real complaint I have on the 2.4L engine.
Good work on your test. A good test is worth 10,000 expert opinions!!! LOL!!!
Tim
I had an S10.PICKUP that I put in a 350 with a automatic in it , as a service truck the 4th engine got almost 600 000 miles on it when I removed it to freshen it up. So I took it all apart and took all the pieces to my racing machine shop , everything was within spec and they freaked out on how clean it was , I took it home and freshened it up as planned. It ended up on the drag strip and it won king of the track and king of the hill titles , I used Mobil one and wix filters and oil changes at 20,000miles or when the first quart is used, my current trucks have almost 400,000 miles and I've owned it 23years now the other has 3oo ooo ,I've had it 10yrs now I do the same oil changes with Mobil one and wix.
Yessir the curse of high efficiency low tension rings
An old mechanic told me to put a quart of kerosene in the oil and drive it around for a while. He was old at the time, and I was about 16 years old, and now am 75, so you can tell that his knowledge was very old. My old junker had a 292 v8, and the return passages in the heads were clogged, making it a true smoker. I did it, and the next day, when I took off the valve covers, I had a super clean head! I drove that clunker for another five years or so, and it never burned oil again.
292 Ford was actually a pretty good V8. We used to call it a Y block. It bolted our 57 Fairlane w/ 3 on the tree around pretty good considering it weighted more than 4,000Lbs. Pulled a utility trailer real good, got decent gas mileage around 17mpg and lasted a long time. (That took me back.)
Did you need to replace a liter of oil with kerosene? Or did you just top off the oil to the normal required level, and then add a quart of kerosene?
@@enermaxstephens1051 i waited until it was a quart low. My car was a very rotted 1958 Ford, and that engine was not at all computer controlled. I don’t think I will be doing this on my 2017 Ford Expedition for fear of blowing the whole thing up. I would not hesitate to do this on any non computer cars though.
@@bmcc12 I'll probably try the similar berryman's method on my 1987 Silverado. It's the first year of the computer, so it will be less computer controlled than newer vehicles. It burns oil too so I figured it would be worth a shot.
@@enermaxstephens1051 that sounds like a plan. I’m not certain that adding kerosene will destroy the newer engines, but why risk it. I will ask you to let me know if it smells like kerosene, because, as a skeptic, I fear that it might BE kerosene! In my case, I was poor, the thing was a HUGE smoker, so I couldn’t lose! Best of luck
Hi Dave, Ive been watching this series primarily because my daughter has a 2012 Audi A4 2.0T. Notorius for stuck piston rings. The car was burning through a quart of oil every 360 miles. About 4 weeks ago I did a 3 day piston soak similar to what you have been doing. I used Berryman's "Professional" Chem Dip. The car has now been driven 800 miles and has not burned a drop of oil. I am extremely surprised at the results and thinking the problem may be fully fixed. If your still having issues with the Toyota give the Berryman's Professional Chem Dip a try.
Your first test run oil had so much berrymans in it, which of course burned off. Hence the huge loss of oil. Later new oil, no loss.
I have the same car A4 2012 2.0 and burning a quart per ~350. Can’t wait to try this! You just gave me more hope, because I tried other fixes in the past and none worked!
This worked great on my 2013 4 cylinder Venza! Was burning 1 quart roughly every 500 miles. Did the treatment and consumption is down to about a quart every 3000 miles. Can't thank you enough for posting this!
Sweet! Thanks for sharing!
I’ve used Berryman to clean the egr passages on a Honda Accord v6 and never had issues with it, great stuff
Great video, Ben! Nothing beats B-12! My classic '89 Toyota Camry sat for the last 4 months through the winter waiting for its new Collector's Plate to arrive, and when I finally started it back up, it was running rough as all getout with carbon poofing out of the exhaust pipe every time it missed and stuttered. The car had just under 1/4 tank of gas out of the 15.9 gallons it can hold in it, so it was the perfect time to head on down to O'Reilly's to grab the last 3 cans of Berryman's on their shelf (which was exactly how many I needed for the trick I was about to pull off). Total cost: 20 bucks.
Here's what happened: O'Reilly's is 2 blocks from our home. My plan was to go there first, grab the B-12 I'd need to do the job, then continue up HWY 99 at a steady 45 MPH to get the shopping done. 2 cans went into the tank immediately, the rear bumper was bounced for around a minute or so to get it mixed in thoroughly with the 3[ish] gallons left in the tank, and we were on our way.
Naturally, it ran like complete crap missing and stuttering and farting carbon for most of the 3 miles it took to get there (I could see the poofs of black smoke in the rearview mirror), but 2 blocks from the store it started to even out some. After we finished shopping and headed back home, it surged a little at first then smoothed right out and ran like a champ. I plan to run it like this until the fuel warning light pops on, at which point I'll add the last can of Chemtool and top the tank off. After that, it'll be good to go again! =D
Dude, I'm using a 89 v6 camry as a daily driver and just had it parked 2 months. I'm going to try this today. Thanks!
I watched 6 of the steps last night and was VERY curious as to how this was going to turn out and BAM, new upload today. Great series and I am sure will help many people with this issue for years to come. Well done and documented.
Thanks for the kind comment, Thomas! ... This one really surprised me.
Hi Dave, my I suggest checking your PCV and maybe adding a catch can to verify if the engine is not ingesting oil trough the intake. If the rings are stuck it may cause too much blowby. Good luck.
This worked perfectly for me on a 2006 Rav4 with the 2AZ-FE engine 118k miles
Historically this engine used about 1 Qt in around 300-400 miles since about 90k miles, last year I followed the same process as below but used seafoam (per one of your videos too) instead of B12, this gave me 500-600 miles per 1 Qt which was a good improvement.
I modified your process slightly by adding Liqui Moly 2037 Engine Flush to my oil prior to changing, ran for 15 minutes, let the engine cool then added the B12 to the cylinder for an overnight soak, next day flushed the oil with cheap oil, then drained and refilled with Liqui Moly 20438 - Molygen SAE 0W-20. its been 600 miles with zero oil consumption.
One word of warning using the Berryman B-12 Chemtool, I've read of people running their engine with the B12 in the oil and it destroying the bearings, with this in mind I did not run my engine after the overnight soak, just drained and flushed, so I cant confirm this issue, but for me it was not worth the risk.
Thank you so much DIY Dave, your demos and ideas have fixed my engine so much so that I may not need to top up the oil until the next change in 6k miles.
Glad to hear it, Andy ... and if you would, let us know how many miles you get before you need to add -- if you need to add at all :-)
I don't recommend to drive the car after adding any strong cleaning additives in the engine. One can fast idle (1k-2k rpm), repeat the process and change the dose according to the severity of issue
I think the next logical step could be getting an oil analysis to see if you’re getting any metal in the oil after doing that treatment. That would tell if doing stuff like this is truly viable.
Always going to be metal in the oil. Analysis before and after would make sense, but wast of time on a car that old. Do B12.
I did the same thing on a scion 2.4 it fixed it. I did it with the engine hot and let it soak until it cooled down. Treated it twice in one day. 4 hour soak each time from full hot. Changed the oil no more oil consumption.
Great testimony 👍🏻
Berryman B12 carb cleaner and Chemtool bulk soak were the only products we used for carburetor service and rebuild throughout the 80s well into the 90s. Nothing else cleaned absolutely as well.
I wish someone had told me how to do this long ago when I had a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Same problem, thanks very much for completely showing step by step. You're a good man.
Thanks for watching, Elias!
I am preparing to do this on my 2010 Toyota Rav4 with the 2AR FE (notorious for stuck oil rings due to tiny drain holes on the oil rings) with 185k on it. I bought it used a few months ago and it gulps oil down to the tune of 1 quart in 250 to 300 miles. I am excited to see the results! Great video!
Please update us with results
How did it go?
Curious here as well!
And are you absolutely certain it's the 2AR in there and not the AZ?
Yo I have the 2ARFE I burn a quart about every 800 miles. I’m thinking about doing this.
Dave - I know you will but please keep us posted. This is amazing...As you know I have been following this series since the start! This would be amazing if it continues to work. Cant wait for an update! THANK YOU SO MUCH for doing this.
Your enthusiasm is appreciated!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY +1, I have an MR2 with a 3SGE and it drinks 1 liter every 1,500 kilometers. I'm so hyped that you have an actual good result finally! Can't wait for the next update.
I know it's a year later but dollar general has it
@@semmark804 Thanks this is good to know.
Wow that was a great vid, and it cleaned up ur engine. Berrymans needs to comp u for all this. This is an excellent promotional video for them. Plus Derek ,Vicegrip Garage is also promoting Berrymans. No wonder there's a supply problem, lol
Been using B12 in my vehicles for years. Great stuff.
Thanks for sharing
That was pretty impressive. Look forward to seeing the next video! There are so many people that have this problem. Really well handled on the accident. Too many sue happy people.
Awesome video Dave, I would've hit those cylinders with some compressed air to remove some of those carbon particles, before starting but other than that I like your method.
it would be interesting to see if this changed compression.
Had too. It unstuck the rings allowing them to expand.
Compression numbers can be wildly skewed by the oil in the combustion chamber wetting & sealing the rings during cranking. I've seen it on new builds that the rings weren't seating. Burned oil like mad but cranking compression was >200psi
I stumbled across this video by accident but I'm glad I did. I have a 97 corolla dx 1.8 with the same problem so I tried this 2 weekends ago and I'm very satisfied with the results. I was going through a quart a week and now I'm sitting at around 1/3 of a quart in 2 weeks.
That is awesome to hear. Thanks for letting us know!
Kia and Hyundai have a service procedure similar to that where they inject the cleaning solvent into the spark plug holes let it soak and then pressurize it with a cylinder leak down tester like device to pressurize the solvent and get it into the piston rings. You could try something similar to that with a cylinder leak down tester and berryman's b12 chem tool.
I'm a Kia tech, it really works. Fixes 99% of them. We use valvoline intake cleaner.
This is exactly the thread comment I was looking for!!
Short story - I own a 2012 Veloster that I bought when it was at 68k back in 2018. The engine crapped out on New Year's Day 2022 at 115,775k.
I was told the valves had chunks of carbon built up on them which is why it would not run.
I paid $800 for a media blast to clear it out, which did the trick, but since then it has been burning oil like witches in Salem and blowing P0420 codes like a crack addict looking to score their next $25 rock....
It has been exhausting to check my oil daily, and run my car on life support since NYE. I am totally fed up with it.
I just ordered 4 cans of B12 from Amazon. This is the last thing I'm going to try on my own before taking it into the dealership to get bent over for the $700 for the pressurized solvent cleaning you've mentioned.
I am not ready financially to purchase a new car yet, but I will soon if this doesn't work.
Prior to this car, I've only ever owned cars that were pre-2002, and I've never ever had an issue with this sort of thing - No one told me I had to spray some cleaner into it every other oil change bc it has a damned GDI engine!!! (Never gonna buy another car with this set up again, if I can help it!)
All the money I've saved on fuel efficiency over the years has been spent now on missed days at work, CataClean, engine restorers, and a $10 bottle of oil every 300 miles!
I'll post again after trying this method this weekend. After I soak the pistons overnight and hand crank the engine, I'm going to drive it from my place over to the Rapid Oil Change and ask them to do an engine flush before refilling it with new synthetic oil.
Glad I have a motorcycle to get around on in the meantime!
@@keithfocoIs it detergent based? Or does it smell like acetone/nail polish remover?
@gregorymalchuk272 the valvoline intake cleaner smells like acetone and bubblegum. The chemical we get from Kia is unique smelling. Not sure what it is. They work about the same.
@keithfoco does it really work? Hyundai wants $700 to do this to my wife's car which is burning 9-11 quarts of oil between 5,000 mile oil changes. I'm burning up the spark plugs every 20,000 miles and I've gone through 2 catalytic converters on this car. It has 167,000 miles on it and started doing it at around 110,000 miles. Hyundai will do nothing to help me. Also, if this works how long have you seen it last? Their service manager told me I would still burn a quart of oil between oil changes but couldn't tell me if how long the procedure lasts. Thanks.
B-12 is good stuff. You can also use it to wipe the yellow off of headlights. Caution: one pass only using a blue paper shop towel saturated with B-12. Follow up with some Meguires plastic polish to seal it up. Works like a champ on most headlights.
No, headlights should be wet sanded and polished. Cheap, easy, and correct way to do it.
@@04dram04 Nope, we´re here for the magic.
I would have let the B12 soak without turning the engine over the first time, observing if the levels drop. Then turning it over with more B12. Finally putting some oil into the cylinders, turning the engine over, before starting it the first time with all new oil. The B12 did indeed wash the cylinder walls dry.
Thank you for your content on oil burning. I used this trial with B12 on my 97 Honda CR-V. It's been almost 200 miles since I changed the oil and the blue exhaust smoke is only a small fraction of what it was. At idle the blue smoke was horrific. I'm excited to see the results as the clock ticks forward.
Thanks for the testimonial, Jim. These are good data that contribute volumes to the experiments!
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY did you ever try putting the berry man’s b12 in the engine oil?
@@doitrightthefirsttime8952 not directly, but it seems what I poured into the spark plug holes would have made it into the oil.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY maybe try straight atf fluid
Hey Jim. Curious to hear how this has been working out.
Working on my son's TC tonight. I will keep you updated with the results once we complete the 24 hours period. Great video!! thanks for taking the time, step by step.
Thanks! please do keep us posted!
Great News, my son is on his second tank of gas and has burned 0 oil. Remarkable!! He used to burn one full quart of oil at just under 300 miles.
@@IntegraTypeSPerformance That's awesome! Glad to hear it's working for others!
@@IntegraTypeSPerformance Thanks for sharing! Could you kindly keep us updated on the consumption? @DIY Dave it would be great to pool all these data points in a future video (both pass and fail) to see if this is truely unsticking the piston rings or just luck. Thanks in advance!
@Accord 2.0 Performance how has the consumption been big guy?
The oil pooling ontop of the pistons is a sign that your valve stem seals are leaking. As the engine warmed up the blue smoking decreased significantly. While your piston rings may not be sealing as well as they should if they had failed your vehicle would be smoking under all running conditions.
The treatment possibly mixed with the oil and softened the valve stem seals to reduce the oil leaking.
I was thinking the same thing with the valve seal seals leaking after seeing the oil on top the pistons. Dropped down after shutting the engine off. From my experience with Honda engines, valve stem seals done cause a ton of oil consumption though… I’m interested to see what happens with this.
@@klinesgarage2551 B12 dissolves or softens almost everything except viton. Not even silicone is safe. It may go back to near normal after a while.
That's a shame, he replaced the valve stem seals back in earlier video
Before I even watch the video - I admire your persistence!
Thought you gave up on a chemical cure?
I think this one will surprise a few people ;-)
I'm so glad I came across your channel. I did the same to my Kia Forte 2014 and my oil consumption has dropped dramatically, before I needed to had oil after 1000 miles from oil change, but now I think I went to 2500 miles after oil change. I will recommend your channel to everyone one.
That's great to hear :-) and thank you so much!
I do a similar treatment to my Audi q5 every other oil change. When I purchased the vehicle, it was burning 1 qt every 350 miles. I dont turn the crank though until after it has sat for a couple hours. Currently I am not burning any oil. 5000 miles between oil changes and still pretty much at the full mark. B12 is a god send for most cars that have known issues with clogged oil rings
Hello Adam, so you removed the spark plugs at every other oil change to do this? That's a lot of work.
wow dave! great news. when you posted that you were gonna try b12 i did the same thing to my 99 corolla instead of kreen....a little differently tho. i filled the cylinders and let it sit over night. turned the engine and refilled then let it sit over night again. then i put it back together and test drove. i made it down the block and lost all oil pressure, limped it home and pulled the pan to find the oil screen was clogged with carbon. its running fine now. oil consumption has gone from around a qt per 100 miles to nearly none at 200 miles. still have more driving to do but im hopeful. we will see how it goes
James, thanks for posting. Please repost when you get some miles on your vehicle. I'm sure others would like to know how it holds up. Also, having additional people report their results gives a better idea of what to do, not to do, etc.
That’s awesome! 👍🏻👍🏻Please keep us informed.
How is it going now?
@@heitorbernardes7977 as of today ive put around 500 miles on it. changed the oil at 250 miles and found alot of carbon in the filter. changed again at same mileage and alot less carbon in the filter. engine is getting cleaner. no noticeable difference in oil level on the dip stick at oil changes.
I've been following this series too, mirroring your steps each time on my Peugeot which is using a ltr of oil every 1000km. Same success as you so far. Going to see if I can find B12 in Norway and give this a try! Thanks for your videos :)
Thanks for watching!
I'm tempted to use this in my Evo7.
I've been running B12 in outdoor power equipment for a long time. Good stuff.
Berryman is a great product. Been using it close to 30 years now.
The key to using B12 as a gas additive and save money while doing good for your engine is to use inexpensive gasoline and a can of B12 as the additive cleaning package every other tank to once a month. Using it every tank is not necessary unless your engine has some specific issue you're trying to fix. Using B12 in this way is how to save money over buying high priced decent gas that has a pretty good additive package (such as Shell). B12 is still a better additive than Shell's Nitrogen additive package as B12 is a dedicated cleaner that's proven, even more so than Mystery oil Lucas and SeaWeed. FUN FACT; B12 is one of the few gasoline additives that actually ignites when flame is put to it. The rest put the flame out.
I use B12 followed by Lucas Top end additive before every oil change. Cleans it really good
I can attest through B-12. I have a friend who has Mistubishi. It's a 1989 or thereabouts. He had check engine light. Had various mechanics replace plugs, tune the engine spent hundreds and the light wouldn't go out. This was a several years back. His car inspection was rolling round and he ran across this Berryman-12. After he added the can drove around a bit not knowing what to expect. The check engine light went out and till this day has never come back on . The vehicle has 200k plus miles on it. After that? I start using it myself after each oil change for good measure 😌
Great story
Dave, I have never seen that much oil on the top of a piston. I've rebuilt some pretty bad smokers, but never ever took one apart with liquid sitting on any piston. There wasn't even that much oil on the rocker arms. I doubt if heavier oil would make a significant difference, but I'd like to let you in on a dirty little secret: The car companies want you to use thin oil so they can use it on their EPA test. They get better cold start emission and FE performance with light oil but they can't use it on the test unless they advise the customer to use it. Good luck.
Even worse, what the EPA considers to be a 'lifetime' vehicle is 150K miles so the manufacturers design their vehicles to last that long plus the fact they consider burning a 1 quart every 1200 miles as 'acceptable', it's no surprise these cars with the thin oil end up burning oil later in life. The fuel economy benefits of thinner oil are only seen when it's cold or on cold start but otherwise they're imperceptible on a warmed engine.
Saw a report by a Ford engineer on a racing forum some years ago.
Ford rec'ds 5W-20 on modular engines. All for CAFE. Guy said they tested longevity with 5W-20 semi synthetuc & 5W-30 full synth.
Police & taxi engines lasted 150K miles (significant ring & valve guide wear) & over 250K with little or no wear on the -30 oil.
He uses ONLY 5W-30 full synth in his family vehicles & 0W-40 in his race car.
Eff CAFE (Corp Avg Fuel Economy) mandated by the Feds. My personal experience mirrors this.
-20 yields abt 2MPG better mileage (7%) than higher vis oils. Engine wear much lower with better lubricants. Eff CAFE & the EPA.
I have the 2003 Pontiac Vibe and I think it has the same engine. It consumes oil but I don't track it. My engine has over 310,000 miles on it so I may give this procedure a shot.
Thanks for making the video.
howd it work?
That's a dramatic improvement! I'm watching this before trying it on my neighbor's 22RE. No complaint of oil consumption, but low compression and lots of blow-by. If it does half as good as this, I'll be happy.
Have you figured out why the compression is low? Is it guides, seals, valves, piston rings? The 22RE is almost bullet proof other than needing fron or rear main seals replaced like any engine they are easily a 500K mile engine. The 22RE though likes 3000 mile oil changes with 20W50 in warm months and 5W40 or 10W30 in colder months.
Nothing kills a 22RE faster than neglected oil changes. I have owned several starting with a brand new 1986 4Runner. I modified the heck out of these engines back in the day. I built one that would turn 10,000 RPM's and was in a daily driver.
@@buckaroobonsi555 I haven't done a leakdown, but the blow-by has me thinking rings. I would not be surprised if it missed a few oil changes. Comp was low enough that I've ordered a new compression tester to confirm. 10k sounds pretty rowdy for a little four-pot!
@@buckaroobonsi555 the guy who taught me about preventing oil consumption occurred in the 1st place his dad had a 22R Toyota pickup with 300k miles, engine have zero oil consumption problem and original seals and gaskets. All he does was change the oil every 3k or 3 months and never fill the oil to to FULL mark (top mark) when engine was cold. Fill it only to the MIDDLE line when cold because oil will expand when it heats up. If u fill it to the top when engine was cold, oil will pass the top mark when it reach operating temperature, if oil pass the top mark when the oil heats up, that’s overfilled. Then u will starting seeing all kind of seals and gaskets leaking problem because hot oil needs to go somewhere inside the motor. Too much oil pressure will cause gaskets and seals break prematurely.
Modern engines require 5k OCI or every 6 months in order to prevent stuck oil control rings from happening regardless of what the manufacturer said to change oil at 8k, 10k, 15k and no matter u have low tension ring, high tension ring, good piston design or not.
Let us know
I have a Toyota 5L with same problem as your neighbor 22RE
@@yurifloripa6968 I started wondering how the engine was running as well as it was with the comp that low, bought a new tester, and found that it was actually fine--my old tester was just reading low for some reason. Didn't give the Berryman's a go. Good luck with your 5L!
I worked in the auto business for 45 years, sold many Berryman's products. Zero complaints for any of their products. Can't say this for many of the other products manufactured by others.
Good info. Thanks for sharing!
Mr Dave, I want to thank you for all for your time and experience. Your piston soak video just saved me a ton. I have a 2015 Audi A5 2.0t, it has 170250 miles, somewhere after 120,000kmiles it started burning about a quart of oil every 700 miles and gow worse as the miles increased. On average I drive 95 miles a day round trip to work, here recently I was adding a quart every 250 miles. By this point I had come across your videos and was contemplating trying some different oil additives. Last weekend I took a 200 mile round trip, I topped off with a half quart. Made it to my destination but the add oil indicator lit up. I checked and was a quart low, topped off and handed home. 65miles into the trip the indicator went off, I sat for 10 mins and true enough, a quart low.. long story short, I did the piston soak Sunday and Monday. Today I've gone 450 miles with less than a 1/4 of a quart burned!!
I am beyond excited!!!
That is awesome, Norman! So glad to hear! Please keep us posted if you would.
Hey Dave, just a quick update. I've driven 1500 miles since the piston soak and I have not burned a half quart of oil yet. It has burned some but it's probably close to 1/4 of a quart.
Thanks again!!!
Thanks for the update! @@normanbrown495
Absolutely Amazing!
Great video, glad it worked out for you.
Next vid, tinting the windows, new wheels and suspension upgrade.
😁
😂
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY You laugh, but a new set of shocks/struts when the old ones are worn out makes all the difference in the world for driving pleasure. And you don;t need to spend a lot of $$$. KYB does the trick.
Thank you for your work Dave. I wanted to share my amazing piston soak results!! My Audi Q5 (2012, 103k miles) was burning a quart every 230 miles like clockwork. I did a chickens*** version - used about 1 1/4 cans of B-12. I started with 75 ml in each cylinder, hand cranked just a few rotations (I know I’m lazy), waited 6 hours and added more, repeating the light hand cranking. After 24 hrs, we added about a 1/2 quart of oil to the crankcase to make it full (started 1 qt. low) and cranked it up. Rough start, took a few tries, but no CEL or misfiring. I drove it gently 10 minutes to the oil change shop - no revving or highway driving. I’m at 1100 miles now and the oil indicator is barely below full. No other products were used. I can’t believe it! Thanks again!
That is awesome to hear. Thanks for sharing!!
Glad to see it worked…
I always add a little after oil changes and always into the gas… Including mystery oil ! 😊
I used this video as a guide and did roughly this process on my Gen 2 Prius. The results have been phenomenal. Previous to the piston soak and hard drive my car was using 2 quarts oil every 3K miles. After piston soak with B-12 I used less than half a quart in the same 3K oil change interval. Amazing! Wish I had ran in to this process 80K miles ago. Thanks Dave!!! Much appreciation!
So glad to hear ... and thanks for letting us know! Good info!
I was watching many of your videos prior to this.. had a mr2 1zzfe and it burned a lot of oil. Mmo, seafoam, gearbox oil . Tried it all and never worked, if I still had the car I would try this. Glad you sorted the issue.
Glad it appears to have worked. I would have done a flush of the cylinders to remove that gunk and debris after the treatment along with an oil/filter change prior to the 20 minute drive. Also, in an attempt to clean up what is still left on the pistons, toss a can of that B12 in the fuel tank, see if that burns out those last remnants. 👍🏻
In my opinion this would be the best way.
Unfortunately, I'm quite sure compression was harmed during this.
Also to get all the B12 out of the oil, after such treatment (before the 20min drive) an Diesel engine specific oil could be used + new oil filter - those have much stronger carbon cleaning ingredients that are safe for the engine. + B12 in the fuel tank
After the 20min intensive ride replace with premium correct spec Oil + Filter.
Hey there! I’ve been using Berrymans for quite a while. I threw a can in every other tank sometimes I’ll toss a couple cans in helps. Keep the valves your fuel system injectors, clean. Berryman B12 is absolutely the best.!!!! Highly recommend to everyone I know. Cool video. Thanks for sharing.
Did u add B12 directly to your engine oil ?
A great way using the original b12, not the one specified as specifically fuel injector cleaner, is to pull the spark plugs out, put between 3 and 4 oz into the top of each cylinder with the block temp around 130 F, and then put the spark plugs back for sealing purposes. Come back after after a few hours, remove the spark plugs again, check (use boroscope) to see how much fluid was lost, add a little bit if any cylinder does not have the entire top of the in piston covered, stuff a rag into each spark plug well (not into the cylinder!), crank the engine over 15-20 seconds. Remove rags, use a manual pump to remove all liquid from cylinders, replace plugs, start engine. Run it at idle (a conservative rpm under 2000 if it won't immediately idle well due to the garbage in the cylinder) for 5-10 minutes, then change the oil and filter. Use a cheaper oil, but not complete garbage. Change oil again (use good oil) after 500 miles (unless turns very dark before that). Check your oil burning. Should have decreased dramatically.
I followed this to a T for my 2010 scion xb that was burning 1.5 quarts every 350 miles or so. Now at 700 miles after doing this protocol and no oil loss. Thank you for explaining this in such a thorough way!
That is great to hear!! Thanks for the update.
I am really glad it worked out for you! Every time you fill up the fuel tank pour in a bottle of cleaner to let the cleaning continue. Works great for cleaning injectors, intake valves (as long as it’s not direct injection), and to free stuck rings.
is cleaners not good for direct injection cars? i just used some lucas oil upper cylinder lubricant and fuel injector cleaner on my car(the stuff you put in fuel tank). plz dont tell me its bad
@@flute136 It’s not going to hurt anything it’s just not going to help keep the intake valve clean because the intake valve doesn’t get cleaned by the the fuel because it just controls the air going into the cylinder.
@@prostreetgsxr k
This will turn your spark plugs into nasty looking hot garbage. You'll have to change them out more often. Not a problem if they're easy to get to, but some vehicles are terrible anymore.
Try cleaning the plugs, or installing a new set. You said the engine was missing at 60 mph on that 20 to 40 mile test run. I have used spray intake valve clean thru the intake throttle, and that alone improved on my emissions test greatly, as per the technician comments for my 21 yo 2002 Ford Ranger XLT with 175,000 miles. I use Seafoam fuel additive too, and I never had to replace the injectors. I also use seafoam in the oil crankcase as per instructions, that has made the engine run more smooth and a lot more quiet. That engine doesn't use or burn any oil whatsoever. I just traded that truck in on a 2023 Chevy Colorado, I waited 3 months for that delivery. Being retired, I drive under 3,000 mile per year. Good luck on your Toyota's oil consumption and enjoy it's great gas mileage. You did good by the way!
The area of the piston rings and grooves is one of the most challenging parts that a motor oil's formula must protect. This engine with low tension piston rings combined with limited or very small holes in the piston oil control ring grooves or "ring lands" creates a challenge to average oils. To keep the piston rings free and the oil return holes open behind the oil control rings, an oil of high or highest quality is what is needed. First off, a synthetic oil can deal with these challenges better due to better resistance to highest temps in this piston area near the combustion chamber. But there are all levels of quality in synthetics. Mobil 1's best EP oils help here as do Castrol's best Extended Performance synthetics. If you really want the best protection, consider Amsoil's best Signature Series oils. Had your engine been run on this oil it's whole life, even at 15,000 mile oil change intervals or longer, you would not be trying to lower oil consumption on this engine. I know this with personal experience. No I am not an Amsoil Dealer, but I have been impressed with their product performance over the years.
I have a Volvo T6 Polestar that burns about one quart per thousand miles with 90,000 miles on the odometer. This issue is not a secret to Volvo owners. It has been maintained at the dealer since it was brand new, with no oil change exceeding 5,000 miles. The dealer only uses Castrol Synthetic. I am evaluating whether to try the B12 treatment as done here, as there should not be any reason for this engine to be burning oil except for low quality rings when it was built.
@@frankmc2602 did u change the oil every 6 months? Or every 5000 miles? Oil needs to be change every 6 months or twice a year. Rather u reach 5000 miles or not, but for some people only drive 5000 miles a year so they stick with the 5000 miles rule, change it when it reach 5000 miles but never realize it’s been a year old that 5000 miles oil was in your engine collecting fine deposits and particulates that can ruin and clog your oil ring and holes. Your car burns oil because manufacturers went to low tension rings that created less friction for efficiency years ago and extended oil change interval over 6 months to 8 months or 1 year. if u keep the oil in your engine for too long, let’s say over 6 months, nothing high quality oil can help u.
High end quality oils like amsoil or redline, Royal purple has higher than average grade detergent additives and high level of ZDDP contents in them. Which translates to clean so well and protect so well…BUT since their oil clean so well, it ended up a lot of deposits from oil combustion vapor in them, thus they trends to be becoming black contaminated really fast. This will also clog the oil filter faster than normal as well. The correct way to extended oil change interval was change oil filter every 3000 miles rather u use high end oil filter or not. 3k is the maximum life a any oil filter. Then u can extend the oil change to 8k, or 10k but change the oil filter every 3k to keep deposits out of your engine oil. (I don’t recommended because I don’t believe in extended oil change interval anymore)
R u sure your dearship using Castrol synthetic for oil change? Did u see them put in the oil with your own eyes? I asked because I know dealership claimed to use certain oils but in fact, they use the cheapest oil they can find for servicing your car then charge u the cost of the oil they claimed they will be using. It’s a known practice thru out dealerships that the techs and mechanics will always end up with piles of FREE oils left over in the shop for themselves because customers paid for them but it’s not needed for their oil change becuase it’s never use.
Also drive your car hard at times help burn off deposits in the piston ring as well. People who track their car will always have a healthy engine than people who just drive their car normally and don’t rev the rpm pass 4000. Because gasoline is a VERY VERY good cleaner itself. (It’s strong enough to strip off paint and rust) so it’s a good carbon cleaner. When u drive at high rpm, u put your foot down the gas pedal, injector will inject MORE gasoline into the combustion chamber and high rpm means piston travel up an down at high speed which creates higher than normal HEAT. So high amount of gasoline meets high mount of heat and speeds = bye bye carbon buildup.
This why I always used an engine flush before changing my oil , Amsoil or Liqui-Moly . Now I have tried BG EPR twice and for the third and last time soon . Then back to Amsoil or Liqui-Moly .
Your hard work paid off.
The Kia may not care what oil you put in but those VWs behind you ABSOLUTELY do!
Have been using Berrymans B12 for over a decade. They have several products. Work great.
Dont forget that on the initial crank rotation cyl 1 & 3 shot a bunch of Berrymans out and onto the firewall.. That might explain why 2 cylinders were dry even though you added some on top of the initial treatment..
Good point, Mark!
Easiest way I found is to run the engine, shut it off and pull the plugs after letting it cool a bit. Pour B12 don the cylinders and go home for the night. Next morning spin it over, put plugs back in, and add some B12 to crankcase (not much). Drive down the road about 10 miles each way and then do an oil change. The oil will be black, and the rings will be freed up.
I'd suggest you use the B12 to clean the intake system either with an intake cleaning kit or just slowly pouring it down the throttle body until it sputters and drowns itself. Let it soak for a few hours or overnight and then slap fresh plugs in it and go drive.
B12 used to have instruction on the side for use in Fuel System and Crankcase for decades. I think if I remember correctly it used to recommend 1/2 pint of B12 Chemtool per 4 quarts of crankcase capacity. You would not drive it but you would let it idle with no load before oil change for 20-30 minutes at 2000 rpms. I used to use 1 pint per 4 quarts capacity in really dirty engines. This was around 1991 or 1992. I never had any issues. I did it to many friends cars as well.
I did not start doing piston soaks though on non-siezed engines until about 2001. When I would replace platinum or double platinum plugs I would pour some B12 in and let things soak then crank the engine latter reinstall the plugs. I was working at General Motors and a lot of cars where having oil consumption issues and piston carbon issues. It just seemed like cheap insurance every 50K miles to do this. Likewise 1 tank of fuel before oil changes I would toss in a bottle of fuel injector cleaner. Again not solving any issues more just trying to prevent any.
Slowly more and more companies European, Domestic and Japanese started to develop issues with oil consumption, sludge and carbon.
I liked the genuine reaction from you. Keep up the report
The galloping sound when starting means you are down a cylinder. The one that was dry is probably not sealing/low compression.
More like piece of carbon sticking a valve open slightly
My brother you’re still working on that car, you have to be the most persistent person I ever seen. That’s good for you brother that’s a good quality to have
Thank you!
Shocked… I may try this for the mr2 spyder oil burning 1zzfe. Please keep us posted!
I"m shocked too! I plan a follow up when it finally goes down a quart to show how many miles it took. ... Then might repeat the treatment.
We would use automatic trans oil in the oil to clean the sludge and buildup, it also softens the seal to help with oil leaking. 1/2 quart to 5 qts of engine oil
Dave, I appreciate your videos. Congrats on the improvement.
Thanks Patrick!
I was brought an outboard motor (Mercury/Tohatsu 20hp) a year ago. The customers complaint was that it suffered midrange to high RPM power. One of the first things I do when diagnosing is take compression readings. Both cylinders were extremely low on compression, but my endoscope showed cross hatch marks in the cylinders. My first thought was “blown head gasket”. Imagine my surprise when I drained the oil, and it came out in chunks! I made a video of this and posted it on my channel, along with what I did, then the aftermath. Long story short, besides disassembling the powerhead of the outboard, and cleaning it all out, I drained the oil, spun on a “sacrificial” filter, refilled the crankcase with a combination of Berryman’s, and 10W-30. I ran the outboard at an idle for the next hour or so, then dumped the oil/Berryman concoction. Took off the filter, and cut it open. Sludge, sludge, and more sludge! The Berryman’s and fresh oil cleaned up the inside of the engine, cylinders, and compression came back up to around 140psi. I’m not much a fan of “mechanic in a bottle” type products, but Berryman’s was the key in preventing my customer spending close to $1000 for me to tear down, clean, reassemble his engine, versus just running Berryman’s through it till the filter caught all the sludge. One thing to note, oil filters DON’T work like you think they do. I ran that engine at an idle due to the fact that at higher RPM higher oil pressure, the filter would most likely by-pass, and the sludge would just wind up back inside the crankcase.
Love the video, even though I’m a year or so late on seeing it.
My Volvo S60 uses 1 lt of oil every 280 miles...I will try this before replacing pistons etc.
Looks like something finally is working! Great job.
Thank you so much Dave, excellent series! I think you have given may of us out here some hope. I came across your channel looking for a solution to the same issue on my 2009 Toyota Matrix with a 2AZ FE engine. My engine's oil consumption is not as sever as yours but it still is concerning (1 qt/1200 miles). However, before I try Berrymans I am going to use Seafoam in the crank case before each oil change (3K miles) and see if that works. It is a lttle milder. I worry that Berrymans could damage the crank case seals. You now have one more subscriber. Please keep us posted.
Thanks, Russell! May you have success with your Matrix!
Update: I ended up doing the same experiment as you did with Berryman's B12. After running at redline, or close to it, for about 35 miles and then draining the oil, there was a lot of sludge and carbon deposits present in the oil. I then added fresh synthetic 5W-30 oil and installed a new filter. Two things that I did different than you in the oil change is I added 2 oz. of Seafoam in with the fresh oil - your Seafoam experiment did show some temporary improvement - and added 5 oz. of SFR oil additive which I use regularly in all of my engines. I than drove the car as normal (approx. 65% highway, 35% city). I added another 3 oz. of Seafoam to the oil with 500 miles remaining before the next oil change. I checked the oil level regularly with very little oil consumption and after 3260 miles I only burned approximately a 1/2 quart. I then changed the oil again adding the 2 oz. Seafoam and 5 oz. SFR. Hopefully the oil burning will remain low. Thank you for your video, I definitely helped me!
I've user chemtool for over 50 years on everything from final parts prep befpre assembly of surfaces, nothing even get's close to it's cleaning power ! also good in fuel tank. put a can in a 1/4 tank and feel the difference ! Great Stuff !
B12 is a great product the extra oil your seeing on the pistons is the kerosene additives that didn't fully evaporate this is normal as the oil is slightly thinner in viscosity personally I would have driven a little while longer but great test and you really can't argue results
No 3 was dry before driving.
Okay I got results after one full tank of gas. I have no oil consumption after the B12 piston soak!!!!! This thing has burned oil as long as I've owned it since 2018 and just got gradually worse and now no pucks of blue smoke or anything. Thanks for doing this dave. I'm still going to run my cleaner through it but I'm going to get some life out of the oil first! I'm using 5w30 Mobil 1. Also did you know these engines have been backspecced to 0w-30 and 5w-20? A thinner oil after this soak may help with the issue of the drain holes.
Great testimony! 👍🏻
@EricVonHunter
Better additive pkg matters - not the weight. I use Castrol 0W-40 or Rotella T6 15W-40 (yeah, diesel oil) in my gas engines. Castrol preferred but Rotella available locally (Wallies & Autozone no longer stock 0W-40 Castrol in 5qt jug - cheaper). GREAT oils & additive pkgs.
I was hoping you crank the engine to remove all liquid before installing the spark plugs! Hopefully all the seals didn’t get harden from the B12 Chemtool because of the rate of evaporation! I would probably drain the oil before the test drive!
I tried this man what a difference. Thanks for this content. I improved my psi from 55 to 195. Amazing
This cured my 2010 Scion XB i was burning a 1/4 of a quart every 200miles sometimes a quart every 300 some miles after doing the piston soak with this i havnt even burned 1/4 of a quart after 963miles but getting close.
Its a miracle cure i tell you, a rebuild your engine for $8 dollars 🥳
Good info! Thanks for posting!
8th gen corolla is one of the best toyota out there, I'm glad you didn't give up on it.
B-12 is the only chemical with a "poison" label in the bottle ... that should tell you something ... instead of following up with regular oil .. just add marvel mystery oil after treatment and then do your oil change ... then add "stp" oil "basic or simple" to help raise the oil pressure ... it worked for me ... former fleet mechanic ...
Finally someone with "proper advice" good job.. 👍
B12 is toluene, mek, and acetone. Pretty toxic, but it works!!!
First off you have to dump that saturated dirty oil your bearings are screaming Second off you don’t rev a cold engine ever next you should always follow the cleaning with marvel to replace the lubricant you washed off the walls 50 years ASE master automotive Technician Fyi if you drive like grandma your more than likely to accelerate the carbon building process
@@dennisd1778 my rodeo was sitting 8 months so before running I'm planning on putting 8 oz of MMO in my crankcase with a new oil change, and 8oz in the fuel tank. My Rodeo never had that common tapping that is common with that 3.2 motor but I'm sure hoping it doesn't start. I also have a brand new bottle of Berryman chemtool. Any other advice?
You don't really want to thicken up the oil on cars with variable valve timing. V.V.T. The oil passages are very small that control the VVT. That's why most new cars recommend 0W 20 or something similar. And a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil in the crank case does a lot of good before your next oil change.
I can’t wait to try this out. I’ve been burning the same amount of oil over the same distance on my Mazda 3.
Did you try it out? Did it work?
With all that smoke during test drive, you should be driving like you stole it 😂😛😂
Hey Dave, wet down one of those blue shop towels with B-12 and swipe those headlights once. Cleans them up nice.
Great to see!
I would still try some ester motor oil to help clean the ring lands more, you may also need to repeat a few months in the future, it's done something, but we don't know for certain if it fixed the issue or simply did just enough to be noticeable and more can be done.
Still though, encouraging, and surprising.
Also, you don't want to drive with this stuff in the motor period, it use to be labelled for motor flushes as well, it's very aggressive, I wouldn't more than idle it with the stuff in the motor.
No. The only way this worked it’s because of the redlining for 20 mins. The engine needs actual “load” and high rpm in order to free up the piston rings! Idling WILL NOT work. Driving for 20mins won’t hurt anything because u r gonna drain the oil after anyway
@@blackysan It works by dissolving the carbon around the rings, sure redlining 'could' help remove some of the carbon, but its still driving around at high RPM with a legitimate motor flush.
Berrymen actively discourages using the vehicle with it in the crankcase, its not a light solvent. Piston soaking isn't anything new, and I've never heard anyone anywhere recommending folks red line a motor with a flush in it.
Piston soaks work perfectly fine without running the motor at all and draining the oil.
Telling folks to do such is borderline malicious, it 'could' help but if it spins a bearing its not your problem.
@@GainingDespair I’ve did this to my own car and I was the guy he mentioned in his video that suggested this method to him and now he did it himself as well. both of us and numerous others have no issues with redlining with b12 in engine so I have yet see anyone have bearing issue with it. But again, if u don’t feel safe, don’t do it. If u want result, don’t be concern about it. All I’m saying is that idling the car without actually driving and redlining it will not work. Done that and still oil rings still not free. After redlining the car with b12, oil rings finally free
@@blackysan and Last Hope: He revved it pretty high, but did not redline it. He said 4600 rpm. My 2004 Vibe, 1ZZFE redlines at 6,400 rpm. I'm not saying that it seems like a good idea. Anyone have success without revving it, or revving it less? Bueller? Bueller? Bueller?
@@duffman6675 as long as u run it at high rpm, u will see results like that because that’s how it supposed to work, burn off anything that’s in the piston rings land and oil return holes. If u don’t want to run the engine at high rpm with the chemical in it, then u might have to do the chemical soak multiple times until u see result. Keep on doing the soak every time u change the oil until u see result. I highly doubt that gonna happen coz I’ve tried all kinds of chemicals (sea foam, mmo, motor flush, carb cleaner…etc) with it and none of them works by just piston soaking or run it in crankcase. B12 with high rpm driving for 20 mins did the trick just one time! Immediate result! Learned that from googling it from forums to forums reading thousands of testing
Hallelujah!! Great work Dave, thanks for your persistence. It’s good to know that there is a solution out there.
Thanks Mark!
Well this was an interesting turn of events. Keep us posted on the oil consumption Vs miles travelled.
I can tell your not a mechanic! I use to do this on Chevy V8's because of carbon knock. First of all add the cleaner and do not rotate the engine then after a over night soak with the coils power disconnected use a shop towel to cover the engine and then crank it over with no spark plugs to purge the carbon from the cylinders then ( CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL & FILTER ) before driving it because all of that chemical has leaked past the piston rings and is now in the crank case destroying the bearings.
Do you recommend marvel mystery oil and acetone mixed together to use as a powerful cleaner to clean and release all the gummed up rings?
I would not use acetone nor mix it, it may cause a toxic chemical or cause damage to the piston ring or cylinders. Stick to the pre-mixed stuff even thought it may cost more.
I would use a quart of oil every tank of gas with my 2008 Scion xB. I put two cans of Berrymans in an almost empty tank of gas and drove it two days about sixty miles and don’t use any oil anymore. 👍🏽
My Dodge neon non-turbo used to burn oil and smoke at start up before using Valvoline high mileage synthetic. After using the oil for several changes the smoke stopped.
Im about to try this on my 09 xB, hopefully i dont ruin the engine, burning a quart every tank as well
I'm confused! 2 cans in an empty gas tank? Jeez was it at least a 25 gallon tank or higher? They say no moe than 1 oz per gallon and a can is 15oz.
@@tallboydr2worked on mine. Using about 75% less oil.
@@theoriginaljimmykicker i tried it a few months ago, consumption went down like 50%, a bit better than before, but i also it burns less if i dont fill it to the full mark
Transmission fluid. Mix one to one and a half liters of transmission fluid with three and a half to four and a half liters of your recommended motor oil and drain after a few days of running or until the signs of burning oil and noise making dissipates
It would have been a good idea to have drained the clean oil first into a clean container to reuse after your treatment.
Also should have tried to blow as much crap as possible with compressed air through the spark plug holes and a rag over the holes to catch debris.
Then drain whatever chemical had accumulated in the oil pan and maybe flush with some diesel or ??? before adding back the uncontaminated oil.
I’ve watched all of the series for oil burning products and am amazed at how well this treatment worked for you. I have a first gen Scion xB (1nz-fe) 1.5l and uses about a quart per tank fill up (290-310miles). I’ve tried many uses of chemicals in the gas and oil and nothing helps. I’ve band aided it with much thicker oil for a while and replaced my pcv valve and that helped for a short bit but now it back to burning like crazy. I purchased two cans of B12 but didn’t realize till I got home that they are the break clean spray style. Well I’ll still try it anyhow! Will update in a week
I hear ya, Richie. I’m hoping the best for your Scion, and thanks for updating us later!👍🏻👍🏻
Update:
Engine was not happy at all. Took roughly 7 minutes of off and on cranking to start after the treatment. When I first pulled the plugs to put b12 in each cylinder, I noticed that each plug was completely covered and dripping with engine oil(hot engine after 45min to cool before experiment). The treatment was so aggressive that it rid of all my compression and would not start at all. Every bit of fuel that was use to start the vehicle was found later in my oil. After cranking for about 5 minutes with no signs of it trying to start, removed plugs, gapped and cleaned plugs, added some atf to each cyl to help bump the compression enough to start. I was then able to get it to start but hardly. Engine would not run in its own at this point. Held rpm arojnd 3k to stay alive and the hotter engine got, worse it ran. I can only assume that as the oil got warm, the gas that was mixed with it was putting off fumes that were making engine run rich. Next day pulled plugs and had to clean them again and then perform oil change. Performed compression check (1:180,2:150,3:160,4:180). This is much better than it was a few years back when I had gotten the vehicle. I used a scope to look in each cylinder as you had done in one of your videos and found slight scoring in cyl3 and major scoring in cyl2. I have since filled up on premium and just now filled up again on regular fuel. Oil consumption is still right on the money 1quart per tank (roughly 290-310miles). This engine has had a very rough life, that I was aware of, but doing this experiment was basically ripping off a bandage with no idea what was under it and this has shed light in the fact that I need a engine for it now. I am still driving vehicle every day. Does not run as well as it did before I did all this, but it runs well enough for now check engine light and it is what it is.
@@richolishis94 I'm sorry to hear it didn't work for you, and I really appreciate you sharing your experience. More data for folks to mull over. Thanks again Richie.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY I've had the same thing happen on an old Cadillac 472 - I sprayed carburetor cleaner down the carb while the engine was running and it cleaned so much carbon off of the rings that the engine would barely start afterwards (it permanently messed-up the engine, I pulled the heads, reground and adjusted the valves, and did everything possible to save it w/o rebuilding the short block, without success). Lesson learned: be careful using these types of products on old, tired engines. Sometimes the gunk is the only thing keeping the engine running and the oil inside of it!
Great results ! I have had similar results using a 20% ratio added In the oil of HyperLube, with also great results. My vehicle(s) 4.6l ford was using about 1qt of oil every 1k miles and after keeping the 20% Hypelube they (actually of them) only used a very small amount of oil at the 5k oil change interval. Seems todo a good job of keeping the rings & ring grooves very clean. Good product !
Hyperlube and Lucas are not good. They are just cheap "Bright Stock" they can gum up piston rings on engines that do not have issues with piston rings. If you need a heavier oil use a heavier oil not only is that cheaper but it is less likely to gum up the rings.