As someone starting out on the journey of understanding photography, I've been watching a ton of videos and reading some articles. Whilst bits of the information lands, putting it altogether has not been easy. I found that this video does it so well, particularly the impact of ISO on other factors. The graphics are also super helpful in presenting complex information in a more simple way. Very much appreciated, and thank you!
Wow, thanks! I'm so glad it was helpful and informative, that's always the goal and so rewarding to hear people comment that. Take care and happy shooting!
Hey Vincent, great video! What I am really missing is: How does the Exposure Compensation setting (various ranges per camera; often EV, -5.0 up to +5.0) relate to the ISO setting? Aren't both artificial amplification of the collected exposure? EV can also do a reduction, while ISO apparently cannot - so is ISO just kept for historical reasons (where films had a fixed ASA/ISO) and could ISO be removed in favor of EV?
Sorry for the late response I have been preoccupied with school and other things. Exposure compensation will simply speaking fool the camera into thinking there is more or less light in the scene, so adjusting the exposure compensation, if you are in a program mode, will also affect the shutter speed and/or aperture, which will affect exposure. This is different from ISO which *just amplifies the signal. Of course the exposure compensation may also affect ISO, it just depends on what camera setting mode you are in. EV in post-processing can be adjusted to brighten or darken an image, so as you said, it's basically the same as ISO and I believe in future cameras we will see it replace in-camera ISO. Extended low ISOs do have an effect similar to this, however, where the camera's internal post-processing will decrease brightness by a third-stop, half-stop, or full-stop. I don't really know how this works, though, and I need to do more research into it.
This answer will vary based on what type of camera you have. If you have an ISO-invariant sensor inside your camera that means that what you said holds true; raising the ISO inside the camera is the same as boosting the brightness in post, and in this case, boosting in post may even lead to better image quality since you would be using the full dynamic range of the camera. Unfortunately, not all cameras are made like this, and a lot of sensors (especially in Canon cameras) are ISO-variant. ISO-variant cameras usually have better performance at higher ISOs if you want to boost exposure later (ex: astrophotography). This is because the electronics of the camera produce a lot of electronic noise that contributes to a larger portion of the noise signal at lower ISOs vs. higher ISOs. The electronic noise is a constant. Imagine a drop of food coloring (the electronic noise) in a test tube of water (low ISO) vs. a gallon jub of water (high ISO). In the high ISO photo, you barely know it's there! If you've heard of the banding issues on some Canon cameras where brightening the shadows reveals ugly fixed pattern noise, it's directly because that sensor is ISO-variant.
@@Apalapse Thank you so much for such a thorough explanation and analogy you used to make it more understandable. I just learned something new. I am a beginner and I own pretty basic and old camera (Nikon D3200), but I'm trying to learn as much as I can before upgrading it. Channels like yours are really helpful along that way. Love it, so please keep it up. Cheers!
This was great. While I understand the three parameters, the redefinition of ISO actually increases my ability to make creative choices in my photography with more confidence.
My favorite part of this video was that you explained why exactly photos got more grainy. Correct me if I misunderstood, but it isn't ISO that makes the image grainy, it's that when you're in low light settings (when you're most likely to use a higher ISO to brighten the image) there is less light being received by the sensor which degrades the image quality. I've been doing photography on and off for a little while now so I'm not very good, but I did take a photography class in high school which didn't really explain that.
Correct, and I have had similar experiences in photography classes throughout my high school and college career (4 different professors didn't believe what I saying and now one of them is literally teaching with my videos when I convinced him LOL). But yes, the lower the signal is reaching the sensor the harder it will be to raise that low signal to a level where it is adequately bright. For someone who wants a dark image then maybe shooting underexposed is fine for them but if you underexpose (either by accident because you don't know better or because the scene is simply dark) and try to brighten with ISO or with software then the grain will be more prominent. The ratio of signal to noise is called the signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) and a lot of exposure triangles actually replace the ISO side with SNR which I find interesting but not intuitive since it's not something you can overtly control (for example, I can't make the stars brighter or create clouds for a darker scene). That's also why I renamed it the "camera settings triangle" because that's ultimately the point with these graphics: to help photographers actually learn their camera and how to physically take photos.
@@Apalapse You should make a video on low-light photography! Like what kind of settings you should be using in order to achieve good looking photos that aren't grainy in the dark, whether it's night time or just in a low lit room. Obviously there will be some grain since there is less light hitting the sensor, but showing us how to mininimize that grain would be awesome!
@@ejfisc For low light photography you want: Long shutter speed, wide lens, low aperture (smaller number), and a sensor with high pixel pitch. That's what i've found out so far.
I agree that the triangle is not 💯 accurate with modern cameras. I also find that the type of image you want to create plays a role in settings you choose. Having a correctly exposed image may not be what you want. Playing round with a variety of setting combinations leads to a more creative outcome in my experience.
I definitely agree, plus, just playing around with your settings teaches you how to use the camera. Sometimes learning is all about actually doing! The best advice I give to new photographers is to get out of Auto and go full manual. Even though manual mode isn't the best for all situations, as a beginner it solidifies the fundamentals quickly.
Thanks, triangle, the concept I hate good work 👍 I've seen Raymond Michalon videos ( in French) 😊, indeed you can't use geometry, sometimes parameters are just parameters
As always, great and 100% true content. I think the exposure triangle is a concept inherited from from film photography, when the film sensitivity (ASA) was actually an user modifiable factor. Lastly, some cameras have more than 1 gain setups, so you don't always get ISO invariance across the full camera ISO range. Other utility for shooting underexposed and crank it in post is saving highlights info.
Definitely. I'm going to make a video about ISO invariance in the future and how beneficial it can be to photographers. I definitely learned from my last video about ISO that over-generalization can be a bad thing, which is why I included the asterisk in the beginning as well as the short segnement towards the end about photography instruction being a balance between generalization to help in understanding and over-technical explanation to remain 100% accurate.
The pitfalls of setting shutter speed and aperture such as slowest handheld shutter speed or aperture optimal sharpness for most lenses should also go on the chart, IMHO. Plus some examples with sliders on each side would help to visually comprehend the effect of it.
@Apalapse Well said. Well explained. It’s time the photography world update the “Exposure Triangle” to adopt to modern “digital” cameras. Just like the SLR (single lens reflex) camera transitioning to DSLR (digital single lens reflex) cameras. Perhaps naming it as “Digital Exposure Triangle”.
Good idea. There were a lot of names I considered, from digital exposure triangle, like you said, to camera settings triangle, to brightness triangle, etc. Part of the problem with the triangle in the first place is that it simplifies things down a little too far in my opinion, but as I demonstrated, with some text explaining what everything is it can be a pretty powerful tool to help beginners figure out camera settings and how they interact with each other.
Sorry for the late reply. I don't have any Apalapse-branded social media, but my personal is @vincentledvina on instagram - I post photos I take on there.
@@Apalapse oh good! Glad you're alive lol. What happens if i change the ISO on my film camera? I was told to change it to 400 when i have ISO 400 film in there but i just started to wonder what would my pictures look like if i had it set to 800
People from third world countries says "thank you" and "sir".. from the first world "nicely done" .. I would say nicely done! (eventhough I am not from first world.. just an observer)
There are some cameras like that such as the Sony a7r2 which has a dual ISO - one before and after ISO 640. In that case choose the lowest of each dual ISO depending on what you are shooting. For example, when I am taking star photos with my Sony a7r2, as long as no shadows are clipped I will always use ISO 640 instead of, say, ISO 400 or ISO 6400.
Hey, thanks for the comment, and I apologize for just getting back to you now. I create the illustrations in Adobe Illustrator and then animate the vectors in Adobe After Effects.
This was so helpful. I Always avoided using high ISO simply because I thought it would make all my images granier. But now I realise that its not the high ISO itself but the lack of light reaching the sensor that causes super grainy images. Thank you for explaining it properly and creating a new way of looking at the triangle its been very helpful.
Thanks for the kind words, you're exactly right! The misconception that ISO itself causes noise in images is one of the biggest in photography. Sorry for not responding sooner, I'm going through a lot of comments today.
That is great! So in short, always use the lowest iso as possible as you can (unless you need a fast capture) and adjust aperture and shutter speed to get the right exposure so you won't need to amplify the low amount of light falling on the sensor 👍
I have thought the same thing for a while however I got to the conclusion that we should keep the ISO in the triangle, if we keep it fixed at the minimum we will be shooting underexposed pictures until we crank the exposure in post
Right, and that's why I kept it in the revised triangle I made. ISO still affects exposure, which is sometimes lost in the ISO is amplification oversimplification, so I made sure to address that in my camera settings triangle with the dual ISO diagram series. Fixing ISO at 100 (lowest native ISO on cameras) and simply adjusting shutter speed and aperture to maximize light to the extent of our artistic vision we should be able to get the most out of the light we gather and the gear we own.
I already had a good idea of everything, but the audiovisual explanations are very easy to understand. I love it! Thanks for your effort in these videos, they're very helpful :D
So glad you find my videos useful and helpful. Stay tuned for more of them in the future and don't hesitate to reach out to me with questions or anything else.
Great video and specifically well explained info about the pseudo ISO. Based on the ISO invariance concept, what would be your recommendations for a camera like the Sony A7RIII? Unless I have read the chart incorrectly from Photos to photons, ISO 640 should be the highest that I would want to use for astrophotography. Am I correct? From there, what would be the most stops we could underexpose a shot before it would become unproductive to brighten it up In Lightroom? Thanks in advance!
Yes, ISO 640 is the best ISO to use for night shots with the a7r2/a7r3, since those cameras use a dual-gain ISO. The rule with underexposure is that if the shadows are being clipped, your ISO is too low, since the clipped shadows won't be recoverable. Sorry for the late response, hope this helps!
@@Apalapse Would I be wrong if I said that the exposure triangle is kind of linked to the concept of ISO Invariance to a certain point. I know that not all sensor perform that same using that method. Thx for sharing your thoughts!
Sorry for the late reply. I use Adobe Illustrator to create the illustrations then I animate everything in Adobe After Effects. I use Adobe Audition to record my voice.
thanks for the great tutorial! What about Astro timelapse? I see a lot of tutorials on TH-cam, where it is recommended to increase the iso to 1600 or 3200. Does this make any sense? Do i get the same results if I use ISO 200 and increase the exposure afterwards in Lightroom? Thats the only thing which is confusing me right now. :D What kind of settings do you recommend for Nightlapse?
Yes, depending on the camera you are using you can get better results using a low ISO and boosting the exposure in post. In Sony cameras, the best ISO is usually 640 to 3200, in Fuji, ISO 100 works fine, in Nikon, 3200-6400, and in Canon, 3200-8000. The best ISO to use for astrophotography depends a lot on the camera's internal electronics, since cameras all produce their own electronic noise that can be seen in photos, called read noise. Low amounts of read noise mean you can use lower ISOs and boost in post, which preserves dynamic range. Unfortunately, Canon and Nikon cameras have high read noise which is why most people recommend shooting around ISO 3200-6400. Sony cameras use a dual-gain ADC which makes ISO 640 the best (in the A7r2 sensor family; not sure if they're using a similar dual-gain sensor in the a7r4 or a7s3...). The best ISO is the one where read noise becomes minimized to a point where it makes up a negligible part of the total noise in the image. At low ISOs, the total proportion of noise from the camera itself compared to the total noise in the image is HIGHER than at high ISOs, since the amplification of the noise from the ISO comes before the electronic read noise is applied in the camera. This is also why you see banding in some cameras when trying to boost the shadows of low-ISO images but not high-ISO ones - read noise manifests itself as fixed pattern banding/streaking. Sorry for the late reply, but I hope this response helps a bit. I went a little off the deep end with the science and terminology, but this is the reality of photography and the science that controls how we take photos.
@@Apalapse wow, thanks for your detailed answer, I highly appreciate it and it helped me a lot. So it depends of the native ISO of the camera model, right?
@@Norain1992 Essentially, yes. The right ISO to use depends on the read noise of the camera, so if your camera has high read noise, you will have to use a high ISO to drown out that noise at the expense of lower dynamic range. In cameras with low amounts of read noise you can use lower ISOs because the read noise won't be visible, even when you boost it in post-production.
@@Apalapse okay great, now I understand how it works, thanks a lot. 😊 👌 Waiting for your next videos, your Tutorials are so damn good and well explained. :-) 👍
Trying to be upload more frequently but my life is insanely busy and the coronavirus does not help my situation.. I am separated from my studio and have to do all my work on an ancient laptop computer.
If your camera is ISO-invariant then Auto ISO is probably the best bet. Of course, if you don't care about seeing the image on the back of your camera (example: landscape timelapse where you may want initial composition but then don't care about the rest of the image series), then shooting at ISO 100 and boosting in post will actually be better than using a high ISO since your dynamic range at ISO 100 is maximized.
Good and easy to understand video. Although, I knew it already, it was still interesting to check if what i knew was correct.
Glad it was useful even for someone as experienced as yourself. Thanks for watching and tune in for more videos in the future.
As someone starting out on the journey of understanding photography, I've been watching a ton of videos and reading some articles. Whilst bits of the information lands, putting it altogether has not been easy.
I found that this video does it so well, particularly the impact of ISO on other factors. The graphics are also super helpful in presenting complex information in a more simple way.
Very much appreciated, and thank you!
Wow, thanks! I'm so glad it was helpful and informative, that's always the goal and so rewarding to hear people comment that. Take care and happy shooting!
@5:42 Great!
Just say it LOUD:
More grain/niose is the resul of less signal (less exposuretime or lower f-stop) not the result of higher ISO
Exactly!
I took a screenshot of 7:10 but it would be nice if you supplied the full-size graphic for download in the description.
Definitely! Here is the graphic: bit.ly/34kRC4W Let me know if you can't see it. Thanks!
Apalapse Thanks for sharing!
@@MythSK1 Sure thing. The pdf messed up some of the opacity settings I had in illustator. Does this address your requests? See: bit.ly/3c3T9Pm
Hey Vincent, great video! What I am really missing is: How does the Exposure Compensation setting (various ranges per camera; often EV, -5.0 up to +5.0) relate to the ISO setting? Aren't both artificial amplification of the collected exposure? EV can also do a reduction, while ISO apparently cannot - so is ISO just kept for historical reasons (where films had a fixed ASA/ISO) and could ISO be removed in favor of EV?
Sorry for the late response I have been preoccupied with school and other things. Exposure compensation will simply speaking fool the camera into thinking there is more or less light in the scene, so adjusting the exposure compensation, if you are in a program mode, will also affect the shutter speed and/or aperture, which will affect exposure. This is different from ISO which *just amplifies the signal. Of course the exposure compensation may also affect ISO, it just depends on what camera setting mode you are in. EV in post-processing can be adjusted to brighten or darken an image, so as you said, it's basically the same as ISO and I believe in future cameras we will see it replace in-camera ISO. Extended low ISOs do have an effect similar to this, however, where the camera's internal post-processing will decrease brightness by a third-stop, half-stop, or full-stop. I don't really know how this works, though, and I need to do more research into it.
@@Apalapse ty!
good explaination sir, thank's
Of course, thanks for watching!
@@Apalapse You are welcome, always like to watch your videos
never get enough of the subject of this video. I always feel I need to understand it more and more never end
Feel free to reach out in the comments or by email if you need more clarification on any of the concepts. Thanks.
Is changing ISO on camera before taking a picture the same as changing ISO later in Adobe Camera raw? Will the result be the same?
This answer will vary based on what type of camera you have. If you have an ISO-invariant sensor inside your camera that means that what you said holds true; raising the ISO inside the camera is the same as boosting the brightness in post, and in this case, boosting in post may even lead to better image quality since you would be using the full dynamic range of the camera. Unfortunately, not all cameras are made like this, and a lot of sensors (especially in Canon cameras) are ISO-variant. ISO-variant cameras usually have better performance at higher ISOs if you want to boost exposure later (ex: astrophotography). This is because the electronics of the camera produce a lot of electronic noise that contributes to a larger portion of the noise signal at lower ISOs vs. higher ISOs. The electronic noise is a constant. Imagine a drop of food coloring (the electronic noise) in a test tube of water (low ISO) vs. a gallon jub of water (high ISO). In the high ISO photo, you barely know it's there! If you've heard of the banding issues on some Canon cameras where brightening the shadows reveals ugly fixed pattern noise, it's directly because that sensor is ISO-variant.
@@Apalapse Thank you so much for such a thorough explanation and analogy you used to make it more understandable. I just learned something new. I am a beginner and I own pretty basic and old camera (Nikon D3200), but I'm trying to learn as much as I can before upgrading it. Channels like yours are really helpful along that way. Love it, so please keep it up. Cheers!
@@tjsudac Glad I could help. Good luck and feel free to comment any questions you may have.
these are THE best, most useful, and well-done videos to teach photography on the internet. Keep them coming!
Thanks, will do!
This was great. While I understand the three parameters, the redefinition of ISO actually increases my ability to make creative choices in my photography with more confidence.
My favorite part of this video was that you explained why exactly photos got more grainy. Correct me if I misunderstood, but it isn't ISO that makes the image grainy, it's that when you're in low light settings (when you're most likely to use a higher ISO to brighten the image) there is less light being received by the sensor which degrades the image quality. I've been doing photography on and off for a little while now so I'm not very good, but I did take a photography class in high school which didn't really explain that.
Correct, and I have had similar experiences in photography classes throughout my high school and college career (4 different professors didn't believe what I saying and now one of them is literally teaching with my videos when I convinced him LOL). But yes, the lower the signal is reaching the sensor the harder it will be to raise that low signal to a level where it is adequately bright. For someone who wants a dark image then maybe shooting underexposed is fine for them but if you underexpose (either by accident because you don't know better or because the scene is simply dark) and try to brighten with ISO or with software then the grain will be more prominent. The ratio of signal to noise is called the signal-to-noise ratio (SNR) and a lot of exposure triangles actually replace the ISO side with SNR which I find interesting but not intuitive since it's not something you can overtly control (for example, I can't make the stars brighter or create clouds for a darker scene). That's also why I renamed it the "camera settings triangle" because that's ultimately the point with these graphics: to help photographers actually learn their camera and how to physically take photos.
@@Apalapse You should make a video on low-light photography! Like what kind of settings you should be using in order to achieve good looking photos that aren't grainy in the dark, whether it's night time or just in a low lit room. Obviously there will be some grain since there is less light hitting the sensor, but showing us how to mininimize that grain would be awesome!
@@ejfisc For low light photography you want: Long shutter speed, wide lens, low aperture (smaller number), and a sensor with high pixel pitch. That's what i've found out so far.
I agree that the triangle is not 💯 accurate with modern cameras. I also find that the type of image you want to create plays a role in settings you choose. Having a correctly exposed image may not be what you want. Playing round with a variety of setting combinations leads to a more creative outcome in my experience.
I definitely agree, plus, just playing around with your settings teaches you how to use the camera. Sometimes learning is all about actually doing! The best advice I give to new photographers is to get out of Auto and go full manual. Even though manual mode isn't the best for all situations, as a beginner it solidifies the fundamentals quickly.
@@Apalapse exactly, I found the fastest way of learning was experimenting in manual mode.
Thanks, triangle, the concept I hate
good work 👍
I've seen Raymond Michalon videos ( in French) 😊, indeed you can't use geometry, sometimes parameters are just parameters
It should be called The Exposure Dynamic, with the Yin-Yang concept applied to Shutter and Aperture.
This guy’s voice could do VoiceOver.
That's actually my own voice, thanks!
most excellent! Please keep publishing (your voice is better than the VO, and you have more nuance)
Was a bit complicated, mostly since in new to photography. We hard to follow everything you were saying
Is it possible to get a printable copy of the camera settings triangle? Thank you for considering.
As always, great and 100% true content.
I think the exposure triangle is a concept inherited from from film photography, when the film sensitivity (ASA) was actually an user modifiable factor.
Lastly, some cameras have more than 1 gain setups, so you don't always get ISO invariance across the full camera ISO range. Other utility for shooting underexposed and crank it in post is saving highlights info.
Definitely. I'm going to make a video about ISO invariance in the future and how beneficial it can be to photographers. I definitely learned from my last video about ISO that over-generalization can be a bad thing, which is why I included the asterisk in the beginning as well as the short segnement towards the end about photography instruction being a balance between generalization to help in understanding and over-technical explanation to remain 100% accurate.
I think exactly the same. Maybe in Digital Photography, the Triangle don't make any sense, but in Film Photography makes perfect sense.
Thanks for making me better understand the exposure triangle .
Interesting
Thanks!
Can anyone spot the obvious mis-spelling in the video?
0:49 "Expousure"
@@Hermaniac8 yes
Why exposure triangle is wrong .
Me: what's an exposure Triangle?
Lol I feel that.
The pitfalls of setting shutter speed and aperture such as slowest handheld shutter speed or aperture optimal sharpness for most lenses should also go on the chart, IMHO. Plus some examples with sliders on each side would help to visually comprehend the effect of it.
Good ideas, thanks. Sorry for taking so long to respond.
If you use special voice software for your videos, can you tell me what it is? Thank you. nice voice to hear
Thanks! I use Adobe Illustrator and Adobe After Effects to make my videos.
Thank you very much
Very helpful for newbie’s.
Please make a tutorial about THE DEPTH OF FIELD.. PLEASE!!
That's a good idea, actually. That might have to be my next video.
@@Apalapse thank you very very much sir..
can you send mi these animation...? for free. i wanted to tech this in small village were artist can grow there chance to chase this world...?
Can you provide more details?
Wish I could see the dislikes on this video... 😢
Thank you so much! Love the new graphic!
You're welcome! Glad you liked it.
@Apalapse
Well said. Well explained.
It’s time the photography world update the “Exposure Triangle” to adopt to modern “digital” cameras. Just like the SLR (single lens reflex) camera transitioning to DSLR (digital single lens reflex) cameras. Perhaps naming it as “Digital Exposure Triangle”.
Good idea. There were a lot of names I considered, from digital exposure triangle, like you said, to camera settings triangle, to brightness triangle, etc. Part of the problem with the triangle in the first place is that it simplifies things down a little too far in my opinion, but as I demonstrated, with some text explaining what everything is it can be a pretty powerful tool to help beginners figure out camera settings and how they interact with each other.
Help me to understand metering in DSLR
That sounds like a good future video topic!
Thank you so much for this amazing video. Please fix the download link for the graphics. I couldn't download it.
Thanks for the comment, I just fixed the link so try it now and let me know if it's still not working.
@@Apalapse the link worked fine now. Thank you once again.
@@mumitrahman5294 You're very welcome!
so helpful thank you!
Do you have any social media account i could take a look at?? Really great content on youtube
Sorry for the late reply. I don't have any Apalapse-branded social media, but my personal is @vincentledvina on instagram - I post photos I take on there.
Really helpful vedio.
Great explanation 👍
Are you still alive? I have questions about Film Photography
Yes I am still alive. What's up?
@@Apalapse oh good! Glad you're alive lol. What happens if i change the ISO on my film camera? I was told to change it to 400 when i have ISO 400 film in there but i just started to wonder what would my pictures look like if i had it set to 800
People from third world countries says "thank you" and "sir".. from the first world "nicely done" .. I would say nicely done! (eventhough I am not from first world.. just an observer)
Interesting observation. Either way thank you for the kind words and I hope you enjoyed the video. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
what about cameras that have dual Iso ? The ones that have 1 noise reducing chip at iso100 and one at iso 800 or higher?
There are some cameras like that such as the Sony a7r2 which has a dual ISO - one before and after ISO 640. In that case choose the lowest of each dual ISO depending on what you are shooting. For example, when I am taking star photos with my Sony a7r2, as long as no shadows are clipped I will always use ISO 640 instead of, say, ISO 400 or ISO 6400.
great
Request please, upload about the difference between DSLR and Mirrorless Cameras and the pros and cons of each two
Good idea! I'll consider this for a future video.
Dear sir, I love your videos. Can I know which software do you use to make this kind of video? I like to make whiteboard animation so. Please sir.
Hey, thanks for the comment, and I apologize for just getting back to you now. I create the illustrations in Adobe Illustrator and then animate the vectors in Adobe After Effects.
Interesting really
Glad you think so!
Thank you so much
You are very welcome. Thanks for watching and stay safe and healthy!
I've been watching lots of TH-cam and paid online classes of photography education and your video is the best by far. Great work! Thank you so much.
Glad it was helpful!
This was so helpful. I Always avoided using high ISO simply because I thought it would make all my images granier. But now I realise that its not the high ISO itself but the lack of light reaching the sensor that causes super grainy images. Thank you for explaining it properly and creating a new way of looking at the triangle its been very helpful.
Thanks for the kind words, you're exactly right! The misconception that ISO itself causes noise in images is one of the biggest in photography. Sorry for not responding sooner, I'm going through a lot of comments today.
That is great!
So in short, always use the lowest iso as possible as you can (unless you need a fast capture) and adjust aperture and shutter speed to get the right exposure so you won't need to amplify the low amount of light falling on the sensor 👍
Exactly, you got it! Thanks for watching!
@@Apalapse You are welcome!! looking forward to see new videos from you ,
your content is great and to the point.
I have thought the same thing for a while however I got to the conclusion that we should keep the ISO in the triangle, if we keep it fixed at the minimum we will be shooting underexposed pictures until we crank the exposure in post
Right, and that's why I kept it in the revised triangle I made. ISO still affects exposure, which is sometimes lost in the ISO is amplification oversimplification, so I made sure to address that in my camera settings triangle with the dual ISO diagram series. Fixing ISO at 100 (lowest native ISO on cameras) and simply adjusting shutter speed and aperture to maximize light to the extent of our artistic vision we should be able to get the most out of the light we gather and the gear we own.
I already had a good idea of everything, but the audiovisual explanations are very easy to understand. I love it! Thanks for your effort in these videos, they're very helpful :D
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching and for the feedback!
There is no doubt that all your videos made are very simplified as well as easy to undersand.
Bro you work a lot hard on this.....
🥳
Thank you very much!
Thank you so much for your amazing videos ❤️😍💕❤️
Glad you like them, you're welcome!
👍🙂
Thanks!
Thanks you’re the best of the best, thanks to you I’ve learning a lot about photography something that I really love
So glad you find my videos useful and helpful. Stay tuned for more of them in the future and don't hesitate to reach out to me with questions or anything else.
Great video and specifically well explained info about the pseudo ISO. Based on the ISO invariance concept, what would be your recommendations for a camera like the Sony A7RIII? Unless I have read the chart incorrectly from Photos to photons, ISO 640 should be the highest that I would want to use for astrophotography. Am I correct? From there, what would be the most stops we could underexpose a shot before it would become unproductive to brighten it up In Lightroom? Thanks in advance!
Yes, ISO 640 is the best ISO to use for night shots with the a7r2/a7r3, since those cameras use a dual-gain ISO. The rule with underexposure is that if the shadows are being clipped, your ISO is too low, since the clipped shadows won't be recoverable. Sorry for the late response, hope this helps!
@@Apalapse No worries! Thanks for the answer and advice.
@@Apalapse Would I be wrong if I said that the exposure triangle is kind of linked to the concept of ISO Invariance to a certain point. I know that not all sensor perform that same using that method. Thx for sharing your thoughts!
Great presentation with great explanations. I learned a lot. Hope to learn more from you.
Thanks and I'm glad you enjoyed the video.
Very nice and easy to understand content! Keep it up! Cheers!
Thank you! Cheers!
Great explanation🙏🏼 Thx
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching.
Excellent video, nicely explained, thanks a lot
Thank YOU for watching and commenting. Appreciate it.
what do you use to edit your videos and do the voice over
Sorry for the late reply. I use Adobe Illustrator to create the illustrations then I animate everything in Adobe After Effects. I use Adobe Audition to record my voice.
Great presentation; please open it for subtitles translations
Will do, sorry about the late reply.
thanks for the great tutorial! What about Astro timelapse? I see a lot of tutorials on TH-cam, where it is recommended to increase the iso to 1600 or 3200. Does this make any sense? Do i get the same results if I use ISO 200 and increase the exposure afterwards in Lightroom? Thats the only thing which is confusing me right now. :D What kind of settings do you recommend for Nightlapse?
Yes, depending on the camera you are using you can get better results using a low ISO and boosting the exposure in post. In Sony cameras, the best ISO is usually 640 to 3200, in Fuji, ISO 100 works fine, in Nikon, 3200-6400, and in Canon, 3200-8000. The best ISO to use for astrophotography depends a lot on the camera's internal electronics, since cameras all produce their own electronic noise that can be seen in photos, called read noise. Low amounts of read noise mean you can use lower ISOs and boost in post, which preserves dynamic range. Unfortunately, Canon and Nikon cameras have high read noise which is why most people recommend shooting around ISO 3200-6400. Sony cameras use a dual-gain ADC which makes ISO 640 the best (in the A7r2 sensor family; not sure if they're using a similar dual-gain sensor in the a7r4 or a7s3...). The best ISO is the one where read noise becomes minimized to a point where it makes up a negligible part of the total noise in the image. At low ISOs, the total proportion of noise from the camera itself compared to the total noise in the image is HIGHER than at high ISOs, since the amplification of the noise from the ISO comes before the electronic read noise is applied in the camera. This is also why you see banding in some cameras when trying to boost the shadows of low-ISO images but not high-ISO ones - read noise manifests itself as fixed pattern banding/streaking. Sorry for the late reply, but I hope this response helps a bit. I went a little off the deep end with the science and terminology, but this is the reality of photography and the science that controls how we take photos.
@@Apalapse wow, thanks for your detailed answer, I highly appreciate it and it helped me a lot. So it depends of the native ISO of the camera model, right?
@@Norain1992 Essentially, yes. The right ISO to use depends on the read noise of the camera, so if your camera has high read noise, you will have to use a high ISO to drown out that noise at the expense of lower dynamic range. In cameras with low amounts of read noise you can use lower ISOs because the read noise won't be visible, even when you boost it in post-production.
@@Apalapse okay great, now I understand how it works, thanks a lot. 😊 👌 Waiting for your next videos, your Tutorials are so damn good and well explained. :-) 👍
@@Norain1992 I'll have one uploaded next month!
Thank you!!! Awesome...
You're welcome!
Great video.please upload the video more frequent
Trying to be upload more frequently but my life is insanely busy and the coronavirus does not help my situation.. I am separated from my studio and have to do all my work on an ancient laptop computer.
@@Apalapse oh. Stay safe mate
@@atulupadhyay6430 Will do! You too man.
Say it with me, "I-S-O." This is an acronym with three separate letters that are each pronounced. Not a word. Otherwise, thank you for the video.
How do you pronounce "NASA"?
Iso 100. Fixed. Set. Forget.
That would give you a dark visualization of the picture untill you boost the brightness in post. I just leave it on "Auto" (limited to 6400)
@@thecommenter578 nope. 100.
Yeah I'll shoot landscape astro at iso 100 🤔
simply not always possible to keep ISO at 100.... E.g. birds in flight, star photography...
If your camera is ISO-invariant then Auto ISO is probably the best bet. Of course, if you don't care about seeing the image on the back of your camera (example: landscape timelapse where you may want initial composition but then don't care about the rest of the image series), then shooting at ISO 100 and boosting in post will actually be better than using a high ISO since your dynamic range at ISO 100 is maximized.