Love your videos. I feel like driving to Mt Dare just so you two can check over my 200 GX. I’m an absolute mechanical numpty but watching & listening to you two I can really understand what’s going on. Love it👍
All I could think about throughout the entire video was how hot it must get under that roof during summer. Must be like working under a BBQ plate! You should charge an extra $10hr between December and March..
It's like working under a BBQ plate in October! You would be surprised how much it heats up, especially when you're going full bore on the job. We don't work here in the Summer, so we're sweet!
He missed talking about / showing how to do bearing pre load tension. Then to check bearing temperature after 50 or 100 is of driving. This is very important as too loose will result in bearing failure and to tight will create high bearing temperature then failure.
And if the outer bearing flat washer is scored from the bearing race rotating on the hub spindle you will never correct torque and they will wear loose in quick time. Reversing the flat washer to the unworn side doesn't work that well either. Fit a new flat washer, have plenty on hand as you will go through them.
Check temp after 50 or 100 of driving? What drugs are you on? Tension properly and the job is done. No one goes around pulling wheels off checking bearing temps unless they are unsure of their work.
@@waynejill You can instantly check the temperature of the hubs / bearings by using an accurate hand-held laser I.R thermometer which you can buy cheap as nowdays. Handy to see what temps are or if any brakes are dragging or any bearing are running hotter than the others. My Landcruiser 79 wheel bearings / hubs usually run at around 18C-20C.
Bashing the free wheel hub flanges until they distort is not how you remove the cone washers unless your a "sexy fingers" mechanic. (everything you touch, you fuq)
@@LapsofMaps I spray the cone washers with WD40 and let sit while I get it up on the hoist and remove the road wheel then I stick a small, thin bladed screwdriver into the cone washer slot & twist & wiggle them out with a sideways motion. If they are stubborn I put a piece of 13mm copper water pipe over the stud & shock the cone with a hammer via the copper pipe and spray them again with more WD40 then attack them again with the screwdriver in their expansion slot. Then on re-assembly I lightly grease, just a film, over the inside using a cotton bud applicator & outside of the cone washer & the cone washer studs so next time your there they will just twist straight out with a thin blade screwdriver.
I don’t think I’ve ever seen or heard anyone explain and demonstrate how to do a bearing repack quite as good as that. Really excellent!
Love your videos. I feel like driving to Mt Dare just so you two can check over my 200 GX.
I’m an absolute mechanical numpty but watching & listening to you two I can really understand what’s going on. Love it👍
Thanks Jeremy, will watch it 20 times more and one day may give it a go, Alan
Great job, great explanation. Thanks
Thanks! We hope it helped! 👍
Excellent
Thanks
Awesome video well done 👍
Cheers, we hope it helped!
Job well done have my approval 10/10
15 flbs is the correct preload on cruiser wheel bearings
Pull the tension wrench out
Great tutorial thanks. Pretty much the same as my caravan. I wonder why conical bearings are still used at all though.
Just Started to watch your channel and really good and basic information. Do you see BT 50s at all, what are their downfalls?
Shoulda looked in Kel's box of tricks in the corner of the shed and you'd find a bearing packer 🤣
Ah gotta burn time somehow mate 😉
All I could think about throughout the entire video was how hot it must get under that roof during summer. Must be like working under a BBQ plate! You should charge an extra $10hr between December and March..
It's like working under a BBQ plate in October! You would be surprised how much it heats up, especially when you're going full bore on the job. We don't work here in the Summer, so we're sweet!
He missed talking about / showing how to do bearing pre load tension. Then to check bearing temperature after 50 or 100 is of driving. This is very important as too loose will result in bearing failure and to tight will create high bearing temperature then failure.
And if the outer bearing flat washer is scored from the bearing race rotating on the hub spindle you will never correct torque and they will wear loose in quick time. Reversing the flat washer to the unworn side doesn't work that well either. Fit a new flat washer, have plenty on hand as you will go through them.
Check temp after 50 or 100 of driving? What drugs are you on?
Tension properly and the job is done.
No one goes around pulling wheels off checking bearing temps unless they are unsure of their work.
@@waynejill You can instantly check the temperature of the hubs / bearings by using an accurate hand-held laser I.R thermometer which you can buy cheap as nowdays. Handy to see what temps are or if any brakes are dragging or any bearing are running hotter than the others. My Landcruiser 79 wheel bearings / hubs usually run at around 18C-20C.
@@waynejill it only needs a couple of fingers for someone who knows what their doing
You didn’t check the wheel studs for tightness.
We do, we just didn't show that part in this particular video.
Is there a way of turning the subtitles off? It's a cool channel but the titles are super annoying.
After 200.000 a new set of bearings is nothing.
Bashing the free wheel hub flanges until they distort is not how you remove the cone washers unless your a "sexy fingers" mechanic. (everything you touch, you fuq)
What is your best technique to remove free wheel hub flanges?
@@LapsofMaps I spray the cone washers with WD40 and let sit while I get it up on the hoist and remove the road wheel then I stick a small, thin bladed screwdriver into the cone washer slot & twist & wiggle them out with a sideways motion. If they are stubborn I put a piece of 13mm copper water pipe over the stud & shock the cone with a hammer via the copper pipe and spray them again with more WD40 then attack them again with the screwdriver in their expansion slot. Then on re-assembly I lightly grease, just a film, over the inside using a cotton bud applicator & outside of the cone washer & the cone washer studs so next time your there they will just twist straight out with a thin blade screwdriver.