Watched him packing. The grease brought back memories of uncle. Denny taught me how to put it in the palm of my hand and just keep pushing it and pushing it in. Thanks for the memories.
40 years ago, we were taught to pack the bearings in one direction from large side to small side. Pack until the grass starts coming out the top, then continue around the bearing. This will ensure you don't get air trapped inside. And, if you're reusing bearings, this method will push the old grease out.
After decades doing it this way (except not turning the bearing) I used the contraption; I was dissatisfied and returned to the hand job. Also, early on I encountered a bit of surface rust on the interior of the hub and began putting a (very) light coat of grease inside. I’ve seen the inside of hubs packed with grease wasting time, effort, and grease.
Awesome! Thank you! Doing what I can to improve myself and the Runoffs was a great example of me learning a few things myself. Appreciate your support!
Exactly how my Auto Shop teacher showed us how to do this, and that was 30 years ago. I still do it this way even with all the fancy bearing packers out there.. Thanks for the tips!
Everything about your video was outstanding. It was a very clear and well explained presentation with good camera work. I especially liked how you seated the bearngs. You should have been an automotive instructor. Thank you.
Glad it helped - Love hearing it too. A lot of the work I do is for cars in an abusive environment (racing) so if it can work here, you know the ideas/practices will work for your F150! Thanks for watching!
My dad taught me to pack the inner area between the bearings with grease. I just watched another video where the guy packed it totally full of grease. The internet is an amazing place. That's why I watch a lot of videos. I've always done it like you do. Thanks for the reinforcement. 👍
@@livingwithrob there are a LOT of good greases out there. As long as it's a good high performance synthetic grease you'll be fine. The key is to stay on top of it and don't just repack them every 10 years! Lol. Good luck!
@@jpm I just bought a Winnebago Micro Minnie with Dexter Torsion axles. It's a little over 1 year old. I'm the 2nd owner. Doubt the mileage is very high. Trying to decide if I want to repack now or if it can wait. Set to travel a lot with it in a few weeks. 🙂
This video was very helpful for me. I’ve never packed bearings before until a couple weeks ago as I’m relatively new to the whole race car maintenance thing as this is just my second season helping out. Really appreciate these kinds of vids as it gives me confidence I’m doing it right. Thanks as always!
I am going to repack my RV trailer bearings and was thinking about buying a bearing greaser. I think I'll save my $20 and do it by hand after watching your video. Thanks
Nicely done. I tend to pack bearings by hand as well and flip the bearing to pack both sides. Sometimes you can simply get a better result by having something in hand and bearings are like that to me. I kind of end up judging it by the pressure it takes to force grease through the pins. You get used to the amount of force required and you can tell when that grease has truly displaced any air inside. Well done I enjoyed this one as we think alike.
Thank you I just learned a lot 1) I only packed one side of my bearings and seen grease go all the way through and I just assumed that was enough, not turning it over and doing the other side. So I will Be going back here soon and start repacking it right this time.💯 2) I always put as much grease inside the hub like you said not to do. Thanks again for the information and tips. 💯👍
Packing from one side until it comes out the top is exactly the same. Also, putting a layer of grease in between the bearing DOES have a purpose. It fights corrosion. Water will always get in one way or another… condensation for example.
@@curtiswlkr you do you. This is how I do it. Do it however you'd like to. I've been doing it like this for 35 years with a ton of success both on trailers and in a vast variety of race cars.
@@jpm but you literally said “it does nothing for you” which is factually wrong. Thats all I’m saying. You can say do what works for you and I’ll do what works for me, but to teach someone incorrect information is a little different. I’ve seen hubs full of rust because the rear seal failed or just from condensation where there was no grease in the middle of the hub.
Everybody has their methods. The way my dad taught me was the area between the bearings/races, you apply a light coating of grease. Note the word "light" to help fight corrosion. No matter how good the wheel seal is, there will always be some water ingress and humidity build up. The grease helps protect surfaces from corrosion build up. Otherwise, there will be a spindle replacement in your future.
@@curtiswlkr so after reading @lynxstarauto's reply, I have absolutely no disagreement on a "light" coating of grease. I meant that I don't "pack" the hub on the inside. That is all. Thanks!
I really like the bearing packer that uses a grease gun. I forces the grease through the bearing under pressure. If you don't get the bearing completely clean it will push the old grease out. Great video showing the hand method nothing wrong with that.
Super helpful. First time trailer owner, I bought a cargo trailer and took apart the hubs to redo the bearings and grease everything. The hubs were full, probably 1/2 lb of grease in each, just crazy. So you answered my question, is that right? No that's not right don't do that. LOL
I read somewhere else that too much grease can overheat the bearing; because it needs to have room for airflow.Ever heard that? and that part about placing some grease inside the hub too yes I heard that too.I also learned that the bearing race is matched to the bearing and that the race that came with the bearing should be used NOT EVEN ANOTHER NEW ONE SHOULD BE USED. But when I order hubs/rotors for my Dodge ram they always come with the race installed, so I suppose I should have removed that race and install the races that came with the bearings, only I learned that too late for that installation, so next time. I find that there are many opinions about how to do things in the automotive world, it is hard to know what is correct sometimes. Thanks for the video.
You are correct but it is not airflow. If a bearing gets too hot and i mean real hot it is usually from everything around the bearing being packed and no way for the overheated grease to seap out. Look at a sealed bearing they put just enough in for the life of the bearing but if it was overpacked it would overheat.
@@popsfoodboat4941 Ok but how do you know exactly how much is enough or too much? does it make sense to put a blob of grease in the center of the hub between the front and back bearings or should it be left emty for air-flow?YOU ANSWERED MY QUESTION FURTHER ON IN THE VIDEO BUT I DID NOT REMEMBER THAT YOU SAID NOT TO PUT GREASE IN THE CENTER OF THE HUB; BUT, I GOT IT FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE THAT GREASE SHOULD BE PUT IN THE CENTER TOO, ALTHOUGH I AGREE THAT IT DOESN'T MAKE SENSE.
Very informative video.. When you state in the end that you should not tighten the nut too tight, are you talking about the center nut that keeps the wheel on the driveshaft? And if so, why is that?
One of the reasons people criticize the EZ lubing from dexter, cause in order to fill the outer bearing the entire void between the bearing needs to be full, hence unnecessary grease in the hub.
I don't usually pack the hub full unless it's a boat trailer, but knowing it will be messy next time and probably not beneficial but there is a chance of water getting in always
The inexpensive bearings packers are more efficient , quicker , and less time consuming . Clean as much grease off the bearings and then spray down with ether to finish cleaning the cone . Important is the preload and the back off of the preload . Cup and Cone free play tolerance .001 - .005. Well done video !
A question, on the axle nut (on a SUV front wheel , or trailer) as you hand tighten the axle nut, moving brake rotor back and fourth (to seat the bearings) . is there a safe torque setting for that nut? Or can you just go 1/4 turn tight with a ratchet and call it a day?
Under normal circumstances grease is not necessary in the center of the hub, but if a bearing fails the grease in the center can make the difference in cutting off a spindle and not.
I used to only do enough for the bearings. Then I started working on a fleet of golf carts. After taking apart a wheel bearing to do some front end work I noticed the bearings had prematurely worn out. All the grease that had been in the bearings (Mobil 222) had been hot enough to become less viscous to flow away from the metal. Ever since I have filled the housing and have never had a problem again. I think giving the heat something to flow into helps.
Not sure what the argument is all about. Regardless of the system used to grease a hub, you will end up filling the middle of the hub(the space between both bearings) totally full of grease which sounds to me like the right way to do it. If you don’t give water a space, you might be a lot better off. Enjoyed the packing. Cheers. 😊
I when seven years without repacking my trailer.. 1-day smoke was coming out of the back wheel and the hub itself broken the whole thing went.. nothing but but a part of the bearing that welded onto the spindle from the heat.. I was broken down five days couldn't get as I was forced to drive 15 miles on three wheels.. The old bearing was carefully removed using a grinder... You got to know what you're doing for that... So you don't harm the spindle.. I finally got it fixed but now I drive around with spare bearings and a spare hub. . You got a fix on the road cuz Triple-A doesn't tow trailers
On a hub that rotates, unlike the one shown, it is a good idea to fill with grease, centrifugal force will push that grease into the bearings and recirculate it as it rotates.
Just keep going from the back side until it comes out of the top, then there's no chance of gaps. It obviously moves around so it's not critical, but why not do it right to begin with?
I learned that you pack the hub between bearings in order to prevent the packed grease you need from exiting the assembly into the empty void under centrifugal forces. That made some sense to me. Thoughts?
Just put the grease and the bearing in a clear plastic bag and squeeze and roll it anyway you like. The messiest you will get is removing the excess which you can do with a popsicle stick. No mess, no fuss, perfect results every time.
You are totally correct. The overheating misconception is when you pack the cavity around the bearing and there is no place for the grease to go when it heats up. That is the bad thing about buddy bearings on a trailer where you have a grease fitting right on the end. Some people will pump the grease gun untill you can't pump no more and the bearing and cavity around the bearing are so packed it overheats. No need to pack between the race and bearing or the seal and bearing. Its not like the grease is going to go back into the bearing on is own. That is why you have to repack tapered bearings like on a boat trailer when water get in it washes the grease out. That is why you should use good lithium waterproof grease. Bearings on a lathe or mill use a hi speed hi temp grease. Bottom line overpacking causes overheating.
I can go from grease loaded bearing to looking like no grease in bearing after a weekend. I know I should therefore pack them after a Saturday and Sunday run. Just wondering if that is normal.
There are a lot of variables here that make this hard to diagnose. Could be the wrong type of grease, wrong viscosity, not enough, etc, etc. Are you using a quality grease? Do you see where it goes? Is it just the axle boots? (I have used a WD-40 tube cut down to allows cv’s to breath easier, maybe the same principal applies here?) Like I said, hard to diagnose without more information.
@@jpm I don’t think you’re missing anything. Sounds like I am 😂. It’s a GT car. I’ve had two, and there are no outer seals on any of the 8 hubs I’ve taken off to service. Sounds more like an every race maintenance item to me. Thanks Jesse!!
@@Scottm2me could be. If your brakes are getting the rotor super hot that could also transfer into the hub and really melt your grease. Repacking every weekend and inspecting the bearings isn't a bad thing to do either way. Good luck!
I can't answer for what others do, but from what I have seen, they tend to not focus on the bearing as much as they do the axle tube, which is the opposite of what you need.
If you hate your car and familly, do this. This is best way to an accident. Rule say never put more the 30% free plase. Law grese better lubricaton the more. One little glass whisky is good for you, but one litre.... Thinking.
There is no need to stuff grease into the bearing, it will still be squeezed out as the wheel spins. And it is necessary to fill the grease inside the hub, this mass feeds the bearings with grease under the influence of centrifugal force.
Watched him packing. The grease brought back memories of uncle. Denny taught me how to put it in the palm of my hand and just keep pushing it and pushing it in. Thanks for the memories.
40 years ago, we were taught to pack the bearings in one direction from large side to small side. Pack until the grass starts coming out the top, then continue around the bearing. This will ensure you don't get air trapped inside. And, if you're reusing bearings, this method will push the old grease out.
Exactly
He's just being lazy
After decades doing it this way (except not turning the bearing) I used the contraption; I was dissatisfied and returned to the hand job. Also, early on I encountered a bit of surface rust on the interior of the hub and began putting a (very) light coat of grease inside. I’ve seen the inside of hubs packed with grease wasting time, effort, and grease.
Jesse, was connected to your TH-cam channel after the Run Offs situation. Keep up the information sharing as I learn something from every one.
Awesome! Thank you! Doing what I can to improve myself and the Runoffs was a great example of me learning a few things myself. Appreciate your support!
Been working on my own cars for 17 years, never once have I had to pack a bearing until now, sad, I know. This was a great help, thank you!
Glad it helped and you're lucky you didn't need to know till now!
Same here. Been working on our trucks for 15yrs and this is the first time I’ve had to do it. Glad I’ll be doing it right thanks to this great video!
Exactly how my Auto Shop teacher showed us how to do this, and that was 30 years ago. I still do it this way even with all the fancy bearing packers out there.. Thanks for the tips!
I used to do them by hand, until I picked up one of those packers. Never again. 😂 cleaner, faster, but more importantly, cleaner 😂
Everything about your video was outstanding. It was a very clear and well explained presentation with good camera work. I especially liked how you seated the bearngs. You should have been an automotive instructor. Thank you.
Much appreciated! Thanks for watching!
Doing headset bearings right now on the bike thanks for the tip!
I remember never pumping grease in the hub,but I'm watching videos to see if something changed. Thanks for giving us this video and me reassurance 👍
Thanks for the video. I'm not a racer, but I replaced the front rotors, wheel bearings, and brake pads on my 2003 ford f150. You were very helpful.
Glad it helped - Love hearing it too. A lot of the work I do is for cars in an abusive environment (racing) so if it can work here, you know the ideas/practices will work for your F150! Thanks for watching!
Doing a spindle replacement that lead to a rotor and pad replacement on my 1996 f150 Eddie Bauer. Really appreciate this straight forward bud
My dad taught me to pack the inner area between the bearings with grease. I just watched another video where the guy packed it totally full of grease. The internet is an amazing place. That's why I watch a lot of videos. I've always done it like you do. Thanks for the reinforcement. 👍
I can't believe both of us said almost the same thing😂
Filling the hub is just a waste of grease, grease does not migrate in the hub
Great video and appreciate the advice. Packing my RV trailer bearings this week and this helped to affirm the best way to do so in my view.
Glad to help!
@@jpm do you recommend any specific grease for trailer (RV) bearings?
@@livingwithrob there are a LOT of good greases out there. As long as it's a good high performance synthetic grease you'll be fine. The key is to stay on top of it and don't just repack them every 10 years! Lol. Good luck!
@@jpm I just bought a Winnebago Micro Minnie with Dexter Torsion axles. It's a little over 1 year old. I'm the 2nd owner. Doubt the mileage is very high. Trying to decide if I want to repack now or if it can wait. Set to travel a lot with it in a few weeks. 🙂
@@livingwithrob there's no downside to checking and packing your bearings, especially if you don't know when it was done last. I'd do it asap.
This video was very helpful for me. I’ve never packed bearings before until a couple weeks ago as I’m relatively new to the whole race car maintenance thing as this is just my second season helping out.
Really appreciate these kinds of vids as it gives me confidence I’m doing it right. Thanks as always!
Glad to help! Like I always say, there are many ways to do it, this is the way I do it and it seems to work based on my success rate!
I do it exactly the same way Downunder in Aussie. Great video. 🙂@@jpm
Nicely done. I just did this on my cargo trailer.
Very thorough video and a great instructional guide thank you very much!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for this video, sending love, peace and good energy from Wales ❤️🙏🏻🏴
That was a fantastic tutorial. I’m using tractor trailer axle grease for wheel bearing for front brake rotor replacement on my e350
Glad it helped!
I am going to repack my RV trailer bearings and was thinking about buying a bearing greaser. I think I'll save my $20 and do it by hand after watching your video. Thanks
Glad to help. It is an easy enough job to do right, even without the “tools”.
Thanks for watching!
Nicely done. I tend to pack bearings by hand as well and flip the bearing to pack both sides. Sometimes you can simply get a better result by having something in hand and bearings are like that to me. I kind of end up judging it by the pressure it takes to force grease through the pins. You get used to the amount of force required and you can tell when that grease has truly displaced any air inside. Well done I enjoyed this one as we think alike.
I know what you’re talking about. There is a feel you get when it’s done right.
Thank you I just learned a lot 1) I only packed one side of my bearings and seen grease go all the way through and I just assumed that was enough, not turning it over and doing the other side. So I will Be going back here soon and start repacking it right this time.💯 2) I always put as much grease inside the hub like you said not to do. Thanks again for the information and tips. 💯👍
I am always learning too! Yeah, that excess grease does nothing for you, so why put it in there?
Appreciate you watching the videos!
Packing from one side until it comes out the top is exactly the same. Also, putting a layer of grease in between the bearing DOES have a purpose. It fights corrosion. Water will always get in one way or another… condensation for example.
@@jpmyou’re wrong sir.
@@curtiswlkr you do you. This is how I do it. Do it however you'd like to. I've been doing it like this for 35 years with a ton of success both on trailers and in a vast variety of race cars.
@@jpm but you literally said “it does nothing for you” which is factually wrong. Thats all I’m saying. You can say do what works for you and I’ll do what works for me, but to teach someone incorrect information is a little different. I’ve seen hubs full of rust because the rear seal failed or just from condensation where there was no grease in the middle of the hub.
Clean looking shop
Thanks 👍
Everybody has their methods. The way my dad taught me was the area between the bearings/races, you apply a light coating of grease. Note the word "light" to help fight corrosion. No matter how good the wheel seal is, there will always be some water ingress and humidity build up. The grease helps protect surfaces from corrosion build up. Otherwise, there will be a spindle replacement in your future.
Strut replacement in my case as the spindle isn't removable. learned a lesson and luckily got 2 spare struts for that side.
Absolutely 100% agree. This is commonly accepted as the correct way. He is definitely an outlier on that subject.
@@curtiswlkr so after reading @lynxstarauto's reply, I have absolutely no disagreement on a "light" coating of grease. I meant that I don't "pack" the hub on the inside. That is all. Thanks!
Great technique and tutorial! Subscribed!
Thanks for stopping by. Feel free to suggest videos too!
I really like the bearing packer that uses a grease gun. I forces the grease through the bearing under pressure. If you don't get the bearing completely clean it will push the old grease out. Great video showing the hand method nothing wrong with that.
Absolutely outstanding!!!
Very nice technique!
Thank you!
Super helpful. First time trailer owner, I bought a cargo trailer and took apart the hubs to redo the bearings and grease everything. The hubs were full, probably 1/2 lb of grease in each, just crazy. So you answered my question, is that right? No that's not right don't do that. LOL
Grease only works where it is needed!
Thanks for the video
Great video. This is how I was taught by mechanics back in the 80’s.
The old way is still a great way and the way I do it! Thanks for watching!
Good stuff! Thanks
Professional knowledge. Thank you
I think the problem is amateurs like me, put more grease in, we figure can more grease hurt. Nice to see a pros opinion. Thanks
I read somewhere else that too much grease can overheat the bearing; because it needs to have room for airflow.Ever heard that? and that part about placing some grease inside the hub too yes I heard that too.I also learned that the bearing race is matched to the bearing and that the race that came with the bearing should be used NOT EVEN ANOTHER NEW ONE SHOULD BE USED. But when I order hubs/rotors for my Dodge ram they always come with the race installed, so I suppose I should have removed that race and install the races that came with the bearings, only I learned that too late for that installation, so next time. I find that there are many opinions about how to do things in the automotive world, it is hard to know what is correct sometimes. Thanks for the video.
You are correct but it is not airflow. If a bearing gets too hot and i mean real hot it is usually from everything around the bearing being packed and no way for the overheated grease to seap out. Look at a sealed bearing they put just enough in for the life of the bearing but if it was overpacked it would overheat.
@@popsfoodboat4941 Thanks for the reply!!
@@popsfoodboat4941 Ok but how do you know exactly how much is enough or too much? does it make sense to put a blob of grease in the center of the hub between the front and back bearings or should it be left emty for air-flow?YOU ANSWERED MY QUESTION FURTHER ON IN THE VIDEO BUT I DID NOT REMEMBER THAT YOU SAID NOT TO PUT GREASE IN THE CENTER OF THE HUB; BUT, I GOT IT FROM SOMEWHERE ELSE THAT GREASE SHOULD BE PUT IN THE CENTER TOO, ALTHOUGH I AGREE THAT IT DOESN'T MAKE SENSE.
Very informative video.. When you state in the end that you should not tighten the nut too tight, are you talking about the center nut that keeps the wheel on the driveshaft? And if so, why is that?
proper job
I learned the same way except to push the grease all the way through from the back to insure no air pockets.
Pretty similar idea there.
One of the reasons people criticize the EZ lubing from dexter, cause in order to fill the outer bearing the entire void between the bearing needs to be full, hence unnecessary grease in the hub.
Exactly. That grease in the middle will do nothing for the bearing outer where it is desperately needed.
Great job awesome and specially the parts list!
Glad you enjoyed it - Appreciate you watching!
Is pressing the bearing into the tub of grease then flipping it and spin it good enough for packing it?
Diddy needs to hire this man
I don't usually pack the hub full unless it's a boat trailer, but knowing it will be messy next time and probably not beneficial but there is a chance of water getting in always
The inexpensive bearings packers are more efficient , quicker , and less time consuming . Clean as much grease off the bearings and then spray down with ether to finish cleaning the cone .
Important is the preload and the back off of the preload . Cup and Cone free play tolerance .001 - .005. Well done video !
Very clear.
Did that for many years! But now I use the BluePoint packer.
If you use high quality grease how often would you repack or replace the wheel bearing in a racecar application.
Do you grease rear axle wheel bearings like this on a differential?
A question, on the axle nut (on a SUV front wheel , or trailer) as you hand tighten the axle nut, moving brake rotor back and fourth (to seat the bearings) . is there a safe torque setting for that nut? Or can you just go 1/4 turn tight with a ratchet and call it a day?
I just use my five gallon packer
And done, high temperature grease is a must for auto/equipment wheels hubs
Or Lukas hub oil 50/50 90w
How many hours to do all three by an A&P mechanic?
Under normal circumstances grease is not necessary in the center of the hub, but if a bearing fails the grease in the center can make the difference in cutting off a spindle and not.
I suppose to one extreme, that could be true. A well maintained bearing should last quite a while, but yes, at some point can fail.
I used to only do enough for the bearings. Then I started working on a fleet of golf carts. After taking apart a wheel bearing to do some front end work I noticed the bearings had prematurely worn out. All the grease that had been in the bearings (Mobil 222) had been hot enough to become less viscous to flow away from the metal. Ever since I have filled the housing and have never had a problem again. I think giving the heat something to flow into helps.
Not sure what the argument is all about. Regardless of the system used to grease a hub, you will end up filling the middle of the hub(the space between both bearings) totally full of grease which sounds to me like the right way to do it. If you don’t give water a space, you might be a lot better off. Enjoyed the packing. Cheers. 😊
Good video
I when seven years without repacking my trailer.. 1-day smoke was coming out of the back wheel and the hub itself broken the whole thing went.. nothing but but a part of the bearing that welded onto the spindle from the heat..
I was broken down five days couldn't get as I was forced to drive 15 miles on three wheels..
The old bearing was carefully removed using a grinder... You got to know what you're doing for that... So you don't harm the spindle.. I finally got it fixed but now I drive around with spare bearings and a spare hub. . You got a fix on the road cuz Triple-A doesn't tow trailers
On a hub that rotates, unlike the one shown, it is a good idea to fill with grease, centrifugal force will push that grease into the bearings and recirculate it as it rotates.
I would have to disagree. The only way grease can get back into a bearing is if it overheats and turns into a liquid.
How do you put "too much" grease on? Like when it startes holding too much heat?
I don't think it's a big deal however I do feel like it's a waste to pack the inner part of the hub.
I'm glad i wasn't watching this on tv at night
Great video
Just keep going from the back side until it comes out of the top, then there's no chance of gaps.
It obviously moves around so it's not critical, but why not do it right to begin with?
Do i do this for old school open wheel bearings like for a Nova?
Absolutely!
This is the way I was shown to grease bearings a long time ago.
It still works incredibly well today!
Some people say to pack the hub full of grease as well.
I have heard that as well, but what are you greasing? Why does it need to be there? The bearing is what’s doing the work.
I learned that you pack the hub between bearings in order to prevent the packed grease you need from exiting the assembly into the empty void under centrifugal forces. That made some sense to me. Thoughts?
Just put the grease and the bearing in a clear plastic bag and squeeze and roll it anyway you like. The messiest you will get is removing the excess which you can do with a popsicle stick. No mess, no fuss, perfect results every time.
The snapon I have used for 25 yrs does the same FYI
I don't doubt it - This is the way I do it because I can see it as it happens. I am sure there are many other ways too!
You are totally correct. The overheating misconception is when you pack the cavity around the bearing and there is no place for the grease to go when it heats up. That is the bad thing about buddy bearings on a trailer where you have a grease fitting right on the end. Some people will pump the grease gun untill you can't pump no more and the bearing and cavity around the bearing are so packed it overheats. No need to pack between the race and bearing or the seal and bearing. Its not like the grease is going to go back into the bearing on is own. That is why you have to repack tapered bearings like on a boat trailer when water get in it washes the grease out. That is why you should use good lithium waterproof grease. Bearings on a lathe or mill use a hi speed hi temp grease. Bottom line overpacking causes overheating.
I can go from grease loaded bearing to looking like no grease in bearing after a weekend. I know I should therefore pack them after a Saturday and Sunday run. Just wondering if that is normal.
There are a lot of variables here that make this hard to diagnose. Could be the wrong type of grease, wrong viscosity, not enough, etc, etc.
Are you using a quality grease? Do you see where it goes? Is it just the axle boots? (I have used a WD-40 tube cut down to allows cv’s to breath easier, maybe the same principal applies here?)
Like I said, hard to diagnose without more information.
@@jpm GTL hub with inner seal, no outer. Looks like grease gets thrown to the race portion of the hub. Been using Lucas Red N Tacky.
So if you don't have an outer seal, that would seem to be the easy answer on where the grease is going. Maybe I am missing something?
@@jpm I don’t think you’re missing anything. Sounds like I am 😂. It’s a GT car. I’ve had two, and there are no outer seals on any of the 8 hubs I’ve taken off to service. Sounds more like an every race maintenance item to me. Thanks Jesse!!
@@Scottm2me could be. If your brakes are getting the rotor super hot that could also transfer into the hub and really melt your grease. Repacking every weekend and inspecting the bearings isn't a bad thing to do either way. Good luck!
Old school is always a Gaurntee way to work.
Nothing wrong with filling the hub cavity with some grease after properly packing the bearing.
Should front wellbeing spin like a top ether one didn't wich one is good
If it spends like a top, it likely doesn't have enough grease in it!
Does every mechanic do this, i feel like alot of mechanics dont pack the bearings.
I can't answer for what others do, but from what I have seen, they tend to not focus on the bearing as much as they do the axle tube, which is the opposite of what you need.
That is some really good grease I can tell by the sound. Really tacky
What grease did he use?
A better method is to get a needle attachment for a grease gun and squeeze the grease into the bearing directly. Less messy and more consistent.
That can work too, this is just my way and I know it works. There are others that do it differently out there and always will be.
Always grease the inside of your hub. I’m an off-roader that likes to forge water. Trust me you don’t want your hub to rust out.
you cant write "perfectly pack wheel bearings" ........ so how can you do the packing correctly?
Continue to pack grease from one side only till it oozes out the other side is the correct way.
I like watching greasing videos because grease looks so edible.
If you hate your car and familly, do this. This is best way to an accident. Rule say never put more the 30% free plase. Law grese better lubricaton the more. One little glass whisky is good for you, but one litre.... Thinking.
Up ?
Over greased. Causes excessive wear on bearing.
Use Heinz ketchup - Hunt’s doesn’t last as long 😊
Lucas Hi Temp Red Sticky Grease from Walmart $8.99 a tube….580 degree temp Runoff 👍🏼👍🏼
Schaeffer's 219 is much better and it's completely waterproof !
Only pack 2/3 of the race. NEVER wash them in kero or petrol.
What if you used a ziploc bag? Put grease in a ziploc bag and work it in with your hands that way. Less wasted grease and less messy.
I suppose that could work, but with gloves on and using a few dollops of grease won’t waste much.
There is no need to stuff grease into the bearing, it will still be squeezed out as the wheel spins. And it is necessary to fill the grease inside the hub, this mass feeds the bearings with grease under the influence of centrifugal force.
I disagree. This is the way I have been doing it for years with positive and predictable results.
@@jpm those who do not stuff it inside can say the same thing, аnd in the production of hubs, no one puts grease inside the each bearing.
Jesse, great video. What did you mean by backing nut to the first opening? Like opening between 2 rollers? Thanks in advance
@Jim Nespor I mean to the first opening for the cotter pin to go into. You don't want the nut too tight on the bearing. I hope that makes sense!
A bearing packer will do it in 2 seconds
Thats way too much😂😂😂😂