You kids are good for the positive influence for the trade. Any mechanic can work in a pristine workshop with polished floors and a nice 4 post hoist. It takes effort to work in remote bush workshops, 24 years as a Army mechanic I admire your work.
@@LapsofMapsrule of thumb with my 80 series If the front wheel bearings need adjustment I also check the rear bearings. Bit more work to pop the axle out but full float axles can break studs with unmaintained wheel bearings.(show stopper) I have also fitted 3xfiner bearing adjuster in the rear. Another tip when adjusting your front bearings I do the inner nut up to 4 ftlbs (48 inch lbs. And the outer nut 47 ftlbs. Cone washer is done up to 26 ftlbs.
Top episode, Top Tip. I always a have a few empty egg cartons on trips especially in our red friggin dust. I put fasteners etc in order I remove (western style, top left to right then down). Keeps the fasteners etc in order and out of the dirt etc. Cheers Gaz
Good to see you again Jeremy and Isabelle, can't wait for the 79 series tips, we are currently in Tassie, Coles Bay, looking forward to the Madigam with you in 2025, Alan & Helena
Hi Helena & Alan, we will aim to film a video today about a 79 series before we leave Mt Dare, that's a great idea! Really look forward to seeing you two again on the Madigan Line! 😊
Wish you guys had a workshop in Melbourne! Been having a nightmare with the MIts dealer workshop lately and don't trust them at all. Great video as always. Keep it up.
Awesome work guys this is what we need, more of, hard to find good mechanics these days. love ya work. Just some additional information maybe useful to others! Just from experience (80s owner here) if you have a lifted 80 and use off set bushes for castor correction and they are flogged, replaced them as you will get allot of wheel movement front to back, maybe this one was on stock and 33s by looks maybe 31s it is Ok. Just wondered why the lower shock bushings weren't done, these usually flog out sooner, than the top ones, or had these been done they are very cheap and easy to do, so maybe they have been done recently, if so then the previous mechanic should replaced the lower shock bolts also as they are also cheap enough OEM, not your guys fault, bit like the double washer, must have been a few beers on the Friday arvo! Just on power train fluids, I am real big on this one. Diff oils, if stock diffs, check your fire wall plate for diff code! I did see an LSD sticker on the diff of this one, mines long gone, but the firewall plate, it will be stamped / unless someone has replaced the diff completely/ model/engine/frame/color trim/trans then axle (in that order) then the code which will tell ya what fluid ya need. **K292 means open diffs front and rear! Std 75/90 imo where possible. Re transmission, often this can be confused, this is reference to manuals esp again check with your fw plate mines a H151F for example factory 5spd MT. Just because it says 75/90 trans and gear oil, doesn't mean you can use it in your trans. Don't confuse the 2. eg Pentrite do a GL 4 only 75w/90 transmission manual fluid, (2.6l) also use in the TC.(1.4l) Castrol do MANUAL VMX 80 which is also GL4. Again do not use a GL4/GL5 that is not the same as GL 4, regardless of who says so! I don't have an Auto but I believe its ATF Dex 11/111 type 4 what my manual says. 6l sump only/ a dry fill is 15.2l MT, which ya def should only use GL4 as the synchro's have brass in there they will get corroded by GL5. (beware Toyota telling you its ok, I bet they wont warranty a 30 year vehicle if it goes tits up, even if they said so), I have checked with different dealers and get the same answer, not knocking them as mine are great for other stuff, i get allot of OE parts where possible or TT, but I ref checked this and was surprised by the answer. **K294 Factory locking diffs, but you should know this already, if ya lucky and have the gold std diff dial left of ya steering wheel (10k Toyota tax for that dial if buying an 80s off anyone, just saying) **K295 Open front LSD rear only use a LSD fluid in this, can be GL 5 about all you can get anyways I use Castrol Axle Limited Slip Diff, but Penrite and Nulon do good options too. Just a note, only use 75w/90 in the rear, this is fully synthetic has better heat, and shock loading and wear properties, 80w/90 is a mineral based oil and while ok in the front.. (3.25l) rear diff / refill front is 2.8l less slightly if you have lockers, but changing it doesn't get any easier than this, so I added Litres so ya know what to carry. I also carry spare crush washers and a tube of high temp gasket sealant among others. *** But imo oil is cheap engines and parts and labor are expensive, don't cheap out on oil esp if in the outback and doing lots of water crossings. I just did my front diff which is well over due, I regularly do river crossings and while it was def needed, it was still black, no milky or crap in there seals still good, still should have done it sooner, but good to know my breathers and other maintenance is doing its job. Just my 2c on older vehicles, use the right fluid and the best ya can get that is readily available, Castrol, Penrite etc is usually everywhere! I only use 75w/90 full synthetic everywhere, always have, if diesel I swear by Delo MGX 400, wont use anything else. Re the Unis, not sure if those kits contain both options or you choose, there is a type A and Type B bearing size, 29mm type A across the dust cap be at both ends same size, 32mm for type B. Mine is Type A at the front and B on the rear shaft so I carry x2 29mm uni and x2 32mm mine is a Manual, Autos are different. MT rear prop is the long one and short shaft is the front prop! Auto trans is reversed. Also a note on this, no point carrying spares if you cant change them or know basics, the rear prop shaft is in phase, so carry and use a paint pen, any Bunnings has them cheap before removing the shaft and undoing the bolts!! The diff ends are captive nuts so remove or undo from the bolt. The front prop shaft is out of phase! make sure if ya remove either it goes back how ya took it out again paint markings should help this can damage your diff if you don't do this! If you ever have to. Don't by Chinese Uni's you will regret it, OEM or TT. There maybe other good brands out there, but buy cheap here and pay the price! a Good uni is like good oil, its like insurance. also greaseable and make sure they have the side nipple, not the straight up and down one eg comes out the end of the cap or that will get knocked off on a rock and no longer be greaseable, or buy the non nipple ones! no one likes no nipples! I always carry a grease gun a tub of grease as well, I use moly on the Unis as it water resistant and corrosion resistant, and high temp on my bearings! grease every oil change or as needed, I flush because I regularly do lots of river crossing typically. I have a list on my phone of all my basic fluids, types, refill capacities and torque speccs, saves time and saves the manual, Anyways just some added info. Look forward to seeing your updated list a couple of things I;; be adding from the list you provided also, cheers🤘
The most common problem with 200 series that we have seen is wheel studs sheering off. Fault codes and limp mode related to dust on sensors or a simple clear with a OBDII scanner (you can pick these up cheap from Bunnings for $50 or so.) We will be uploading a full spares video we take for our Toyota Hilux, so that would be valuable for you! We likely won't be doing a 200 series video unless it comes into the workshop and wants a check over done, but if one comes in we will be sure to film it.
Much the same and include a cv as well and rubber turbo hoses/joiners replace front wheel bearings/hub before 200k kms and add radiator coolant concentrate cable ties duct tape
What do you think would happen if your were confronted with a Jackaroo (2002) 3L diesel that has engine or drive train problems? Parts are sometimes hard to get and diagnosis is a bit of a dog. I don't have much choice - that is the vehicle I've got. Its done 180,000km so definitely not flogged out. I don't expect anything to go wrong, but Murphy....
Thanks mate! The Hilux had absolutely no problems out in the desert looking for the old oil wells. We look after our old girl. No we aren't going to the 4WD show, but we wish we paid more attention because we probably would have.
Hi guys , always watch your work at mt dare. Do you go to different’parts of Australia to work to fund your travelling and are both of you full time travelling or do you have a base . Kind regards mark
Hi Mark, thanks for watching! We have been coming back to Mt Dare since 2021. In 2022 we did a huge season from April to December (with a month holiday travelling Central Australia.) Came back this year during Finke, and again this year to finish off the season. We tried out Caravan Park jobs because they support couples but find that sort of work is difficult for our lifestyle funny enough. Caravan parks aren't really our thing. We work in different parts around Australia contracting out mostly to support our full-time travels. Working for Hema Maps would be a huge contributor for us, and it's great because Australia is full of dirt roads and tracks that constantly need verifying and mapping out, and we love it! We don't have a base, but we may in the future. Cheers :)
Carry water pump . Check condition of radiator assembly, old brittle plastic tanks can split or hose connection can snap off , same on plastic hose joiners and plastic heater taps. Recommend carry a genuine fusable link as they can fail from vibration if in harness attached to battery terminal. With these old vehicles it would be wise to replace the harmonic balancer due to perished rubber elastomer , this is always overlooked topic . Have been on trips remote with friends who did not take my advice to replace balancer pre departure and they had failures 😆 even replace bearing in air conditioning compressor clutch . Not a fan of polyurethane bushings , seen too many crumbled to dust , stick with rubber it perishes but will usually stay intact . Preventative maintenance by replacing suspect components that are old , done lots of kilometres with good quality replacements installed by quality mechanic or knowledgeable person well in advance of departure . Have travelled countless thousands of kilometres on our harsh remote tracks and desert touring & had next to no problems also allow yourself extra weeks for the trip , slow down reduce speeds so you don't punish the vehicle and enjoy the journey. I have had friends take their 4WD to mechanic to get work done pre trip and it came back worse than when they dropped it off , careful who works in your vehicle , even stealer dealers can be useless . Just ask my friends 💲💲💲
Thank you for the insightful comment. A lot of what you mentioned is preventative maintenance. The sort of stuff that people with no mechanical knowledge would ignore and probably think the mechanic is trying to rip them off. It couldn't be further from the truth. Funny enough, Jeremy had a Pajero where the harmonic balancer fell off, and lucky enough didn't damage the engine or anything else. That's unlucky it happened to your mates, but sometimes people simply learn the hard way when they don't take knowledgeable advice from others. Allowing extra time for a trip in the outback and desert is fantastic advice. Too many people come out here with the strictest time frame, end up rushing and breaking things because they hit a washout too hard. Speed kills everything out here.
Good tips on the parts to carry. The only thing I would say/add is about fuse kits. Do not buy cheap no name fuse kits made in China and sold on Ebay, Aliexpress and such. From my own experience the amp ratings on them are not to be trusted. Buy decent well established brands such as Narva
😂 my remote desert touring vehicle is a 1981 land cruiser , it's all about preventative maintenance and ensuring everything is in good mechanical condition pre departure. Also have a competent person who understands off track travelling and its conditions do the repairs , Won't have any of the modern vehicles in my Lifetime.
@@davedave5457I have a 1990 80 series. HZJ80. #1144 off the line. I trust it to take me there AND home again. I do spend a lot of time and money tinkering with it.
Sorry but i can never understand why ppl tension a wheel brg without cleaning and repacking both brgs, the grease will be black and most would have flung out anyhow…. and it’s getting retensioned😵💫 Your your only two bolts away from removing the hub
@bobhudson6659 what sort of moron comment is that? It's a suggestion, not a criticism. They still run subtitles so clearly not interested in this suggestion. No one has to justify their feedback just to please you. Get over yourself.
You kids are good for the positive influence for the trade. Any mechanic can work in a pristine workshop with polished floors and a nice 4 post hoist. It takes effort to work in remote bush workshops, 24 years as a Army mechanic I admire your work.
Perfect timing on catching the wheel bearings. Saved him money on a new set.
He was very lucky he came in to see us. The front diff low on oil could have been catastrophic in the desert.
@@LapsofMapsrule of thumb with my 80 series
If the front wheel bearings need adjustment I also check the rear bearings. Bit more work to pop the axle out but full float axles can break studs with unmaintained wheel bearings.(show stopper) I have also fitted 3xfiner bearing adjuster in the rear. Another tip when adjusting your front bearings I do the inner nut up to 4 ftlbs (48 inch lbs. And the outer nut 47 ftlbs. Cone washer is done up to 26 ftlbs.
Angel's of the desert as they say. 💯💯✔️✔️
I'm from Maitland, NSW. Really good to find a channel with some Real People. Thanks for posting.
We lived in East Maitland once upon a time. Thanks for watching. :)
I’ll tell you what I would like to drive my 76 Land Cruiser just for a service because I can trust your workmanship
Not sure how I discovered your channel but its great. Keep up the content
Theirs something satisfying watching mechanics doing work rather then me doing it this time
You're not wrong! It's hard yakka working on cars.
Top episode, Top Tip. I always a have a few empty egg cartons on trips especially in our red friggin dust. I put fasteners etc in order I remove (western style, top left to right then down). Keeps the fasteners etc in order and out of the dirt etc. Cheers Gaz
Egg cartons, that's a great idea!
Good to see you again Jeremy and Isabelle, can't wait for the 79 series tips, we are currently in Tassie, Coles Bay, looking forward to the Madigam with you in 2025, Alan & Helena
Hi Helena & Alan, we will aim to film a video today about a 79 series before we leave Mt Dare, that's a great idea!
Really look forward to seeing you two again on the Madigan Line! 😊
Wish you guys had a workshop in Melbourne! Been having a nightmare with the MIts dealer workshop lately and don't trust them at all.
Great video as always. Keep it up.
Good work 👍
Awesome work guys this is what we need, more of, hard to find good mechanics these days. love ya work.
Just some additional information maybe useful to others!
Just from experience (80s owner here) if you have a lifted 80 and use off set bushes for castor correction and they are flogged, replaced them as you will get allot of wheel movement front to back, maybe this one was on stock and 33s by looks maybe 31s
it is Ok.
Just wondered why the lower shock bushings weren't done, these usually flog out sooner, than the top ones, or had these been done they are very cheap and easy to do, so maybe they have been done recently, if so then the previous mechanic should replaced the lower shock bolts also as they are also cheap enough OEM, not your guys fault, bit like the double washer, must have been a few beers on the Friday arvo!
Just on power train fluids, I am real big on this one.
Diff oils, if stock diffs, check your fire wall plate for diff code!
I did see an LSD sticker on the diff of this one, mines long gone, but the firewall plate, it will be stamped / unless someone has replaced the diff completely/ model/engine/frame/color trim/trans then axle (in that order) then the code which will tell ya what fluid ya need.
**K292 means open diffs front and rear! Std 75/90 imo where possible.
Re transmission, often this can be confused, this is reference to manuals esp again check with your fw plate mines a H151F for example factory 5spd MT.
Just because it says 75/90 trans and gear oil, doesn't mean you can use it in your trans. Don't confuse the 2.
eg Pentrite do a GL 4 only 75w/90 transmission manual fluid, (2.6l) also use in the TC.(1.4l)
Castrol do MANUAL VMX 80 which is also GL4.
Again do not use a GL4/GL5 that is not the same as GL 4, regardless of who says so!
I don't have an Auto but I believe its ATF Dex 11/111 type 4 what my manual says. 6l sump only/ a dry fill is 15.2l
MT, which ya def should only use GL4 as the synchro's have brass in there they will get corroded by GL5. (beware Toyota telling you its ok, I bet they wont warranty a 30 year vehicle if it goes tits up, even if they said so), I have checked with different dealers and get the same answer, not knocking them as mine are great for other stuff, i get allot of OE parts where possible or TT, but I ref checked this and was surprised by the answer.
**K294 Factory locking diffs, but you should know this already, if ya lucky and have the gold std diff dial left of ya steering wheel (10k Toyota tax for that dial if buying an 80s off anyone, just saying)
**K295 Open front LSD rear only use a LSD fluid in this, can be GL 5 about all you can get anyways I use Castrol Axle Limited Slip Diff, but Penrite and Nulon do good options too.
Just a note, only use 75w/90 in the rear, this is fully synthetic has better heat, and shock loading and wear properties, 80w/90 is a mineral based oil and while ok in the front..
(3.25l) rear diff / refill front is 2.8l less slightly if you have lockers, but changing it doesn't get any easier than this, so I added Litres so ya know what to carry.
I also carry spare crush washers and a tube of high temp gasket sealant among others.
***
But imo oil is cheap engines and parts and labor are expensive, don't cheap out on oil esp if in the outback and doing lots of water crossings.
I just did my front diff which is well over due, I regularly do river crossings and while it was def needed, it was still black, no milky or crap in there seals still good, still should have done it sooner, but good to know my breathers and other maintenance is doing its job.
Just my 2c on older vehicles, use the right fluid and the best ya can get that is readily available, Castrol, Penrite etc is usually everywhere! I only use 75w/90 full synthetic everywhere, always have, if diesel I swear by Delo MGX 400, wont use anything else.
Re the Unis, not sure if those kits contain both options or you choose, there is a type A and Type B bearing size, 29mm type A across the dust cap be at both ends same size, 32mm for type B.
Mine is Type A at the front and B on the rear shaft so I carry x2 29mm uni and x2 32mm mine is a Manual, Autos are different.
MT rear prop is the long one and short shaft is the front prop! Auto trans is reversed.
Also a note on this, no point carrying spares if you cant change them or know basics, the rear prop shaft is in phase, so carry and use a paint pen, any Bunnings has them cheap before removing the shaft and undoing the bolts!!
The diff ends are captive nuts so remove or undo from the bolt.
The front prop shaft is out of phase! make sure if ya remove either it goes back how ya took it out again paint markings should help this can damage your diff if you don't do this! If you ever have to. Don't by Chinese Uni's you will regret it, OEM or TT.
There maybe other good brands out there, but buy cheap here and pay the price! a Good uni is like good oil, its like insurance. also greaseable and make sure they have the side nipple, not the straight up and down one eg comes out the end of the cap or that will get knocked off on a rock and no longer be greaseable, or buy the non nipple ones! no one likes no nipples!
I always carry a grease gun a tub of grease as well, I use moly on the Unis as it water resistant and corrosion resistant, and high temp on my bearings! grease every oil change or as needed, I flush because I regularly do lots of river crossing typically.
I have a list on my phone of all my basic fluids, types, refill capacities and torque speccs, saves time and saves the manual,
Anyways just some added info.
Look forward to seeing your updated list a couple of things I;; be adding from the list you provided also, cheers🤘
Thanks for the comprehensive comment and tips! You've given us a lot of valuable information, which will be helpful for our viewers. 👍
Great video love your content down to earth honest people keep it up guys
Great vid! Keep them coming 😊
Thanks for watching! 😊
Loving it, honest, genuine and good content. Thanks
Another top video, great info. looking forward to the Hilux video. Thanks
Really appreciated the spare part list run down.
All good information to share. Thanks folks.
Great episode guys. Another awesome episode would be a bush travel tool kit.
having flashbacks of rebuilding those front knuckles on my old troopy. Paying a good mechanic is always money well spent hah!
It's definitely worth it to pay a good mechanic when you need to!
I found your channel about a week or two ago and have been enjoying these outback workshop series of videos.
Well done they’re great
Try taking the tailshaft off, thats the best way to check, flange nuts and uni joints.
Lovely Ep and advise guys,
Pair of f#%kn champion mechanics.
Just found your channel. Keep up the great work🍻
Great update. Well done.
Much appreciated! 👌
Great information thank you.
Awesome guys. I hope a vid on spares and common issues for the 200 series is on the list for future videos! Subscribed.
The most common problem with 200 series that we have seen is wheel studs sheering off. Fault codes and limp mode related to dust on sensors or a simple clear with a OBDII scanner (you can pick these up cheap from Bunnings for $50 or so.)
We will be uploading a full spares video we take for our Toyota Hilux, so that would be valuable for you!
We likely won't be doing a 200 series video unless it comes into the workshop and wants a check over done, but if one comes in we will be sure to film it.
just discovered your channel , great to see how professional yous are . subscribed and watching you from northern ireland
Awesome video I have an 1fzfe 80 and planning on doing the simpson next April Just need to pull a fuel tanker behind me
Travel as light as possible. Leave the big mud tyres at home.
20 bucks notes are called Crayfish...,50 buck notes are Pineapples... and 100 bucks notes are Brahmans....love the channel look forward to each one👍👍
or $20 is Lobster, $100 is a Banana skin
For me it's a Lobster, a pineapple and the big boy is a Watermelon.
Really looking forward to the Hilux spare parts list!
Much the same and include a cv as well and rubber turbo hoses/joiners replace front wheel bearings/hub before 200k kms and add radiator coolant concentrate cable ties duct tape
@@wolfweb another thing worth its wait in gold is a lithium jumpstart pack saved me once remote
Great video guys were do you source your parts from since your in the dessert
Mt Dare source's their parts from Alice Springs, 528kms away or by plane sometimes
@ ok cool wasnt sure where mt dare was thankyou
Can you do a part list for a Prado 120 pls??
Petrol or diesel? Keep an eye out for our spares list on our hilux, it will be very similar for your 120 series prado. 😀
@@LapsofMaps Diesel so would be very similar to the hilux + auto box. Love the vids :-)
Yes when running a land cruiser you need lots of spares
What do you think would happen if your were confronted with a Jackaroo (2002) 3L diesel that has engine or drive train problems? Parts are sometimes hard to get and diagnosis is a bit of a dog.
I don't have much choice - that is the vehicle I've got. Its done 180,000km so definitely not flogged out. I don't expect anything to go wrong, but Murphy....
Great video guys keep up the good work.
How did the lux hold up on looking for the old oil wells?
Are you guys heading down to the Adelaide 4wd show?
Thanks mate! The Hilux had absolutely no problems out in the desert looking for the old oil wells. We look after our old girl.
No we aren't going to the 4WD show, but we wish we paid more attention because we probably would have.
@@LapsofMaps ah bugger we'll won't see ya there then.
@@Bigcountry_littlelegs We only go to shows if we want to, not because we have to. We'll always keep it that way. ✌
Hi guys , always watch your work at mt dare.
Do you go to different’parts of Australia to work to fund your travelling and are both of you full time travelling or do you have a base .
Kind regards mark
Hi Mark, thanks for watching! We have been coming back to Mt Dare since 2021. In 2022 we did a huge season from April to December (with a month holiday travelling Central Australia.) Came back this year during Finke, and again this year to finish off the season. We tried out Caravan Park jobs because they support couples but find that sort of work is difficult for our lifestyle funny enough. Caravan parks aren't really our thing.
We work in different parts around Australia contracting out mostly to support our full-time travels. Working for Hema Maps would be a huge contributor for us, and it's great because Australia is full of dirt roads and tracks that constantly need verifying and mapping out, and we love it!
We don't have a base, but we may in the future. Cheers :)
Carry water pump . Check condition of radiator assembly, old brittle plastic tanks can split or hose connection can snap off , same on plastic hose joiners and plastic heater taps. Recommend carry a genuine fusable link as they can fail from vibration if in harness attached to battery terminal.
With these old vehicles it would be wise to replace the harmonic balancer due to perished rubber elastomer , this is always overlooked topic . Have been on trips remote with friends who did not take my advice to replace balancer pre departure and they had failures 😆 even replace bearing in air conditioning compressor clutch . Not a fan of polyurethane bushings , seen too many crumbled to dust , stick with rubber it perishes but will usually stay intact .
Preventative maintenance by replacing suspect components that are old , done lots of kilometres with good quality replacements installed by quality mechanic or knowledgeable person well in advance of departure . Have travelled countless thousands of kilometres on our harsh remote tracks and desert touring & had next to no problems also allow yourself extra weeks for the trip , slow down reduce speeds so you don't punish the vehicle and enjoy the journey.
I have had friends take their 4WD to mechanic to get work done pre trip and it came back worse than when they dropped it off , careful who works in your vehicle , even stealer dealers can be useless . Just ask my friends 💲💲💲
Thank you for the insightful comment. A lot of what you mentioned is preventative maintenance. The sort of stuff that people with no mechanical knowledge would ignore and probably think the mechanic is trying to rip them off. It couldn't be further from the truth.
Funny enough, Jeremy had a Pajero where the harmonic balancer fell off, and lucky enough didn't damage the engine or anything else. That's unlucky it happened to your mates, but sometimes people simply learn the hard way when they don't take knowledgeable advice from others.
Allowing extra time for a trip in the outback and desert is fantastic advice. Too many people come out here with the strictest time frame, end up rushing and breaking things because they hit a washout too hard. Speed kills everything out here.
Must get bloody hot in that shed..
Bloody oath it gets hot in the shed
Good tips on the parts to carry. The only thing I would say/add is about fuse kits. Do not buy cheap no name fuse kits made in China and sold on Ebay, Aliexpress and such. From my own experience the amp ratings on them are not to be trusted. Buy decent well established brands such as Narva
Thank you! You're right, cheap fuse kits are not reliable
👍
🐿️
You can do this without sledging everyone else.
Just a bit of mechanic banter 😉
Why are there subtitles?
Because we make the effort to put them on our videos in post-production
Thanks for them, because there are deaf people in the world. 😁
@@NTB66 sorry. Didn’t think of that. . . .
Great update. Well done.
holly crap some people shouldnt own cars, imagine taking that 80 more than 5kms from a major city. insane.
😂 my remote desert touring vehicle is a 1981 land cruiser , it's all about preventative maintenance and ensuring everything is in good mechanical condition pre departure. Also have a competent person who understands off track travelling and its conditions do the repairs , Won't have any of the modern vehicles in my Lifetime.
@@landcruiser1868 yep agreed mines a 1990 but i would not leave my neighbourhood with my car in that condition especially to do the Madigan line
@@davedave5457I have a 1990 80 series. HZJ80. #1144 off the line. I trust it to take me there AND home again. I do spend a lot of time and money tinkering with it.
@ mate a well maintained 80 or 105 will last a lifetime and I trust mine more than most but geez I look after it and maintain it that’s the key
Sorry but i can never understand why ppl tension a wheel brg without cleaning and repacking both brgs, the grease will be black and most would have flung out anyhow…. and it’s getting retensioned😵💫
Your your only two bolts away from removing the hub
The bearings had just been re-greased so there was no need for the repack. Just an adjustment because of the movement. 👍
It's nice of you to apologize for incorrect assumption.
WHY DO u have hat on in shed
Love the videos, but please loose the subtitles
Show us your videos where you have it perfect.
@bobhudson6659 what sort of moron comment is that? It's a suggestion, not a criticism. They still run subtitles so clearly not interested in this suggestion.
No one has to justify their feedback just to please you. Get over yourself.