It's amazing how little info there is on YT for such a common vehicle. Your video is a credit to you and such a help to all the 100 Series owners. Thank You for making such a detailed and well spoken tutorial
Thankyou for such an informative step by step guide. I'm a 42yo female and I have an 80 series that every time someone else touches it they give me more problems! Thanks to this video I did mine better than the last so called mechanic who did them only a few months ago!
Just finished doing the Disc's and Pads all round, as well as the wheel bearings. Watched this video a couple of times to get my head in the right space. Cant express how much this helped me out. Awesome work, and a very nicely paced video.
I work on my car constantly. This video is great. Thank you for listing the parts in the description. That saves me so much time. I also appreciate the videography and cut scenes. Stellar work. Super useful.
Thanks for watching and commenting Orlando. We really appreciate your kind feedback and are glad to hear you found value in the level of detail provided
Thanks for watching and commenting! I suspect you might have seen this done on the rear of the 100, as it's a different set up and commonly a press would be used there. We're planning to put out a video on the rear in future and aim to not use a press where we can find other suitable methods, as we're aware most people probably won't have access to one at home
Love it! One important thing is that the inner axel nut is retorqued to 43 foot lbs after it is loosened again. This is per the FSM. It is adjusted from that point to be within specs with the spring gauge.
Thanks for the feedback DaintreeJD, that's exactly what we are trying to do - make clear and concise videos that are easy to follow. Let us know if there's anything else you'd like to see in the future!
G'day mate. I would almost guarantee your bearings are now loose. you've used the method of tightening the bearing preload witch is perfect for solid axel Toyota's ect, but the 100 is completely different when it comes to how tight the preload needs to be set. having a fish scale / pull spring load gauge is highly recommended. they need a scary amount of NM on the main 54mm to achieve the right preload. I personally have 2 hdj100s and am a Toyota service technician, I see this so so often in the 100s!!
Hi Ben, thanks for commenting and it's interesting to hear of your experience. The method shown in the video (including reference to use of the spring tension gauge, which I would also recommend people use as per the FSM) follows the Toyota FSM for the 100 series (IFS) specifically. The torque sequence on the inner 54mm nut is 43 lb-ft to seat the bearing, followed by backing off to hand tight, followed by torqueing to 4.3-6.5 Nm as required to set the preload in the correct range as per the FSM and we have not had any issues doing it this way. The outer lock nut and lock washer (star washer) are then installed to hold the inner nut in place to maintain the preload set by the inner nut. I suspect people can overlook the importance of bending the tabs inwards and outwards on that lock washer, so as to maintain exactly the relative positions of the inner and outer hub nuts, as I've pulled apart several Landcruiser's front hubs and found them not bent correctly (or at all) by previous Owners/technicians, which can easily lead to the hub nuts (and therefore wheel bearings) coming loose over time. You mention solid axle Toyotas - note that the method as per the respective FSMs is almost identical for these, even the 54mm hub nut, outer wheel bearing and lock washer are all identical part numbers between the 80 series (solid axle) and 100 series (IFS) models. There is a slight difference in the torque specified on setting the bearing preload (5.4 Nm for 80 series vs. 4.3 - 6.5 Nm for 100 series), and the preload (at starting), being greater for the 100 series at 42-67 N vs. 28-56 N for the 80 series. Out of interest, how high above the torque range specified in the FSM (4.3-6.5 Nm) do you think you would use instead for the inner 54mm nut, on the final tighten after first having seated the bearing? It would be hard for us to recommend going outside of the method specified in the Toyota FSM without seeing a technical service bulletin or similar related to this bearing preload, which would be expected if it were a widespread issue.
@@2ndGearLow Nothing like facts and specs straight from a FSM. I know which would hold up in court if it came down to a negligence issue. Rule 1: Don't deviate from the Work Instructions 😊
@@2ndGearLowunfortunately this gentleman may be correct. The fsm is not clear. The goal is preload : 42-67 N using spring tension. You will notice the torque on the adjusting nut at 6.5nm as the Manual states is not enough to get you there. The goal is preload NOT torque
very clear instructions with all the parts numbers and torque. thumbs up mate. I would like to see how to change a CV and rebuild a CV. I know most people would just replace it with a brand new one but sometime it just need a boot or new bearing
@@2ndGearLow just done my front wheel bearings today , first one took be about 5 hours and the second one about 1.5 hours lol , I noticed up and down and left and right play in the axle spindle , just wondering if you know if the this is normal or are my cv joint shot ?
Great work - once you've done one you realise how straight forward it is. That "play" you're experiencing in the CV is normal if you've taken the drive flange off. It happens because the CV is only being supported at one end at that point.
Great detailed video. But unfortunately, your front bearings will be loose within the first mile! 100 series hub is kept together by the two 54mm hub nuts and they need a pretty good amount of torque to get the bearings fully settled. Secondly, I highly recommend using a bearing grease packer tool. That tool is very inexpensive, readily available and does a better job of packing the bearings than you can do with bare hands. Cheers!
Hi, thanks for commenting and we appreciate you watching. I've left a detailed reply regarding this bearing preload on an earlier comment so will copy that here. The method shown in the video (including reference to use of the spring tension gauge, which I would also recommend people use as per the FSM) follows the Toyota FSM for the 100 series (IFS) specifically. The torque sequence on the inner 54mm nut is 43 lb-ft to seat the bearing, followed by backing off to hand tight, followed by torqueing to 4.3-6.5 Nm as required to set the preload in the correct range as per the FSM and we have not had any issues doing it this way. The outer lock nut and lock washer (star washer) are then installed to hold the inner nut in place to maintain the preload set by the inner nut. I suspect people can overlook the importance of bending the tabs inwards and outwards on that lock washer, so as to maintain exactly the relative positions of the inner and outer hub nuts, as I've pulled apart several Landcruiser's front hubs and found them not bent correctly (or at all) by previous Owners/technicians, which can easily lead to the hub nuts (and therefore wheel bearings) coming loose over time. It would be hard for us to recommend going outside of the method specified in the Toyota FSM without seeing a technical service bulletin or similar related to this bearing preload, which would be expected if it were a widespread issue. A bearing packer could certainly be used here, however it is not a requirement and thorough bearing packing can easily be achieved by hand with some time and attention to detail. We have to draw the line somewhere and try to avoid using too many specialised tools in the videos so as to not make it seem off-limits to people getting started with working on their cars, and I emphasise the use of the bearing and seal driver kit specifically in this video as for the price I think that one makes the job significantly easier.
Thanks Steven, we really appreciate your feedback. If it's your first time attempting this job, best to allow at least a few hours per side. That being said, having the right tools, particularly brass or copper hammer, drifts and a bearing and seal driver kit can certainly streamline things
THANK YOU! You guys have once again given me knowledge and confidence to tackle another job on my own. Side note, if it works for the 2006 it should apply to the 2007s as well. At least for the US models.
Hi Tom, Thanks again for your feedback, that's greatly appreciated. Good spot - that's correct, it is relevant to all year models of 100 series Landcruiser (IFS) or Lexus LX470, including 2007. We've corrected this in the video description.
great, thanks. worth noting the hub nuts have a flat and rounded face to them, flat face to the axle side. And i would recomend placing the nuts on the studs before hitting them with a brass hammer, just a little bit of belt and braces.. Truly awesome video
😊Help please😊 Great video, excellent! My issue is this: I followed all instructions, but when it came to reinserting the circlip there wasn’t enough of the spline exposed for the circlip to slot in. It was only about 2 mm short of going in but even with force pushing from behind the CV, and a bolt screwed in to the thread hole at the end of the spline to pull it outward, still no success. 😊Any Suggestions🙏🏻
Amazing video very Professional and knowledgeable. I have An 80 series 1991 and I would like to know if you have any videos about transfer case mine is doing a lot of noise like hit when a change from drive to reverse very loud any information will be awesome for me if any one out there have the same issue and how you fixed. Thank you
Awesome video! I’m getting ready to have a go at this job myself soon so this was invaluable! One question, is the 54mm hub socket a special item or will a standard 54mm socket fit in there too?
Thanks M C. Good question - It depends on the depth of the 54mm socket. Hub nut sockets are extra deep (hollow inside) to fit over the end of the CV shaft so that you can reach the nut. A regular shallow socket likely won't allow you to reach the 54mm lock nuts, hence the special tool.
While I was finishing the job, one of my front axle hex nuts, I think over torqued. And it reached a point where when I turn it right, it wouldn’t tighten. I think the nut was spinning the bolt. How do I fix that?
Hi mate, thanks for watching. This does happen - you can use two nuts (jammed into each other) on the stud which is spinning to tighten it back into the hub, before then removing those nuts and reinstating a single nut and torqueing it. You can also fully remove the studs (using double nut technique to loosen) and then clean and apply a threadlocker (e.g. Loctite) to ensure they won't come loose again when you put them back in.
Hi Mohamad, most 4wd vehicles are either solid front axle or independent front suspension (IFS) such as this vehicle. The process for changing the wheel bearings for this IFS Landcruiser is very similar to for the solid front axle Landcruisers, e.g. the 80 series
Fair question and thanks for commenting - in the interests of saving time this video is not intended to cover diagnosing bad wheel bearings, where a more generic diagnosis video could apply to many vehicles, but rather demonstrate the specific parts, tools and method (e.g. torque specs) for this exact model Landcruiser or LX470. This video is more so for people who suspect they have a bad wheel bearing or are looking to change/re-pack them as preventative maintenance. I think it would've been valuable to include the recommended service interval in the video, which for reference is to "replace, change or lubricate" (i.e. re-pack with new grease or replace if required) every 20,000km (12,000 miles) or 12 months.
Hi Michalo, if you are referring to the image shown on screen in the intro with the parts highlighted, there are a couple of great resources for finding these exploded diagrams. The first is the factory service manual, which has good images but no information on specific part numbers. I find the most useful resource for these to be partsouq.com , which was recommended to me by the parts department of my local Toyota service centre. You can put your VIN in and it has a lot of information about your specific car, accounting for any differences in manufacture year for example, and has full exploded diagrams with every Toyota part number on there. For this video, refer to the front axle section within suspension & axle if using the FSM.
Hi Quintin, I assume you're referring to getting the cone washers out, they can be quite a pain! The brass/copper hammer or bar on the end of the stud works quite well though for getting them loose
Hi Chris, I would say it's a combination of cost and convenience. For kits like these, you're looking at OEM quality parts for cheaper than you would pay to buy all the individual parts through Toyota (at least for us in Australia), and it's very convenient to be able to pick up a kit with everything you need or to carry as spares. We generally use genuine Toyota parts where possible, but for bearings, seals and the like I would certainly recommend Terrain Tamer as an equivalent. They do also make some parts which are designed to be an upgrade over Toyota, e.g. the heavy-duty rear wheel bearing seals for the 80 series
The video is all about the procedures of changing the the front wheel bearing, lve worked on my small car front bearing. But watching this video gave me confidance to install my Land Cruiser front bearing.. Thanks you.
This has got to be one of the most detailed 100 series videos on bearing R&R. Great work!
Thanks for the feedback!
It's amazing how little info there is on YT for such a common vehicle.
Your video is a credit to you and such a help to all the 100 Series owners.
Thank You for making such a detailed and well spoken tutorial
That's exactly what we are aiming for - to have clear and concise videos you can follow. Thanks for the feedback!
Arguably the best how-to video on 100 Series Land Cruiser / LX 470 front wheel bearing replacement. Subscribed!
Thanks for the feedback Scott!
Dude, I hope you keep making these videos about the 100 series. So far the best videos around. Keep it up.
Thanks Daniel, we really appreciate it. More to come!
Thankyou for such an informative step by step guide. I'm a 42yo female and I have an 80 series that every time someone else touches it they give me more problems! Thanks to this video I did mine better than the last so called mechanic who did them only a few months ago!
That's awesome, we're glad it helped!
Just finished doing the Disc's and Pads all round, as well as the wheel bearings. Watched this video a couple of times to get my head in the right space. Cant express how much this helped me out. Awesome work, and a very nicely paced video.
Thanks Bevo, we really appreciate your feedback!
Congrats guys. Best you tube tutorial I've seen.
Thanks for watching!
Great camera work and detailed instructions. Thank you mate
Glad it was helpful!
What an amazing tutorial. Phenomenal job explaining the smallest of details. Thank you for this
Thanks for the feedback, we're glad it helped!
I work on my car constantly. This video is great. Thank you for listing the parts in the description. That saves me so much time. I also appreciate the videography and cut scenes. Stellar work. Super useful.
Thanks for watching and commenting Orlando. We really appreciate your kind feedback and are glad to hear you found value in the level of detail provided
If you ever do a CV axel replacement or brake job video post it. People are always looking for good videos on those topics.
Thanks MrWhoevr - We'll keep this in mind for future videos.
I'll 2nd that
You have to be a teacher this was so clear my 2 year old could do my bearings.
Hi Jody, thanks for watching, that's very kind of you!
Best 100 series mechanical instructional vid on the web. Nice work!
Thanks for the feedback Jono!
One of the best video I watched in a long time.
Thanks for watching mate! We're glad to hear you enjoyed it
I don't know how you don't have at least 10 times the views, the best 'how to' videos i have ever found.
Thank you.
Thanks mate, we really appreciate your comment!
Thank you! The 4k video really helps. Well edited and straight to the point. Awesome work
Thanks for the feedback Branden, glad it helped!
Nice info on this video! I was always under the impression that i needed a bearing press for this job.
Thanks for watching and commenting! I suspect you might have seen this done on the rear of the 100, as it's a different set up and commonly a press would be used there. We're planning to put out a video on the rear in future and aim to not use a press where we can find other suitable methods, as we're aware most people probably won't have access to one at home
The video is bulletproof!!
It just can't be any better than that! Thanks M8!
Thanks Victor, we really appreciate it!
Love it! One important thing is that the inner axel nut is retorqued to 43 foot lbs after it is loosened again. This is per the FSM. It is adjusted from that point to be within specs with the spring gauge.
Amazing awesome superb instructions , you make it look so easy getting read to repack the bearings in the land cruiser. Thanks
Thanks for the beedback Imran! Good luck with the job.
Awesome video you are very disciplined and thorough, thank you!
Thanks for the feedback Roberto!
This video is so well made. Good job.
Thank you very much!
Awesome video, very clear to follow instructions thanks mate
Thanks for the feedback DaintreeJD, that's exactly what we are trying to do - make clear and concise videos that are easy to follow. Let us know if there's anything else you'd like to see in the future!
The best video ever, thanks you :-)
Thank you mate!
G'day mate. I would almost guarantee your bearings are now loose. you've used the method of tightening the bearing preload witch is perfect for solid axel Toyota's ect, but the 100 is completely different when it comes to how tight the preload needs to be set. having a fish scale / pull spring load gauge is highly recommended. they need a scary amount of NM on the main 54mm to achieve the right preload. I personally have 2 hdj100s and am a Toyota service technician, I see this so so often in the 100s!!
Absolutely agree.
Hi Ben, thanks for commenting and it's interesting to hear of your experience. The method shown in the video (including reference to use of the spring tension gauge, which I would also recommend people use as per the FSM) follows the Toyota FSM for the 100 series (IFS) specifically. The torque sequence on the inner 54mm nut is 43 lb-ft to seat the bearing, followed by backing off to hand tight, followed by torqueing to 4.3-6.5 Nm as required to set the preload in the correct range as per the FSM and we have not had any issues doing it this way. The outer lock nut and lock washer (star washer) are then installed to hold the inner nut in place to maintain the preload set by the inner nut.
I suspect people can overlook the importance of bending the tabs inwards and outwards on that lock washer, so as to maintain exactly the relative positions of the inner and outer hub nuts, as I've pulled apart several Landcruiser's front hubs and found them not bent correctly (or at all) by previous Owners/technicians, which can easily lead to the hub nuts (and therefore wheel bearings) coming loose over time. You mention solid axle Toyotas - note that the method as per the respective FSMs is almost identical for these, even the 54mm hub nut, outer wheel bearing and lock washer are all identical part numbers between the 80 series (solid axle) and 100 series (IFS) models. There is a slight difference in the torque specified on setting the bearing preload (5.4 Nm for 80 series vs. 4.3 - 6.5 Nm for 100 series), and the preload (at starting), being greater for the 100 series at 42-67 N vs. 28-56 N for the 80 series.
Out of interest, how high above the torque range specified in the FSM (4.3-6.5 Nm) do you think you would use instead for the inner 54mm nut, on the final tighten after first having seated the bearing? It would be hard for us to recommend going outside of the method specified in the Toyota FSM without seeing a technical service bulletin or similar related to this bearing preload, which would be expected if it were a widespread issue.
@@2ndGearLow Nothing like facts and specs straight from a FSM.
I know which would hold up in court if it came down to a negligence issue.
Rule 1: Don't deviate from the Work Instructions 😊
@@2ndGearLowunfortunately this gentleman may be correct. The fsm is not clear. The goal is preload : 42-67 N using spring tension. You will notice the torque on the adjusting nut at 6.5nm as the Manual states is not enough to get you there. The goal is preload NOT torque
Great video , well done. super explanatory and great editing on screen script.
Thanks John, glad you enjoyed and thanks for commenting!
Great video! Also valid for an old IFS Hilux. Same outer bearing. Keep up the good work! THanks
Thanks for the feedback!
Great How-To! Thanks for the tips
Thanks Lawrence, glad you found it helpful, and we appreciate you leaving us your feedback
Looking to tackle this on my 100 series and this video is really helpful. Subscribed and looking out for more videos!
Thanks Miucus, we're glad this video helped. We really appreciate your subscription - lots more to come!
Really nice work, best video out there on this subject. thank you for posting!
Thanks Rigbino - we really appreciate your feedback!
Thank you. Very well explained and demonstrated. First class video. Professional and Accurate.
Thanks for your feedback, we're glad you enjoyed it!
Most informative video I see on this, bravo 👏
Thanks for the feedback!
excellent
Thanks Oliver! Glad you enjoyed
Awesome video
Thanks for watching Rod
very clear instructions with all the parts numbers and torque. thumbs up mate. I would like to see how to change a CV and rebuild a CV. I know most people would just replace it with a brand new one but sometime it just need a boot or new bearing
Thanks Payam - really appreciate you watching and giving us some feedback
Very kool and detailed video. Exactly how you would do this job in your home garage. Probably better than a lot of OEM service experts as well.
Thanks a lot Adrian!
The best video I have ever seen about this!
Thanks Top Gun! We really appreciate your feedback.
Awesome video, I’m very impressed with your explanation and presentation of the whole process. Well done. I’ve subscribed. 👍
Thanks Ken! Really appreciate you taking the time to comment, and subscribing really helps us out, cheers
Great vid guys , really helpful keep them coming . 👍
Thanks John, we really appreciate your feedback!
@@2ndGearLow just done my front wheel bearings today , first one took be about 5 hours and the second one about 1.5 hours lol , I noticed up and down and left and right play in the axle spindle , just wondering if you know if the this is normal or are my cv joint shot ?
Great work - once you've done one you realise how straight forward it is. That "play" you're experiencing in the CV is normal if you've taken the drive flange off. It happens because the CV is only being supported at one end at that point.
@@2ndGearLow cool thanks for the advice , next on my list is shocks and springs ! I love wrenching on the 100 series
Great detailed video. But unfortunately, your front bearings will be loose within the first mile! 100 series hub is kept together by the two 54mm hub nuts and they need a pretty good amount of torque to get the bearings fully settled. Secondly, I highly recommend using a bearing grease packer tool. That tool is very inexpensive, readily available and does a better job of packing the bearings than you can do with bare hands.
Cheers!
Hi, thanks for commenting and we appreciate you watching. I've left a detailed reply regarding this bearing preload on an earlier comment so will copy that here. The method shown in the video (including reference to use of the spring tension gauge, which I would also recommend people use as per the FSM) follows the Toyota FSM for the 100 series (IFS) specifically. The torque sequence on the inner 54mm nut is 43 lb-ft to seat the bearing, followed by backing off to hand tight, followed by torqueing to 4.3-6.5 Nm as required to set the preload in the correct range as per the FSM and we have not had any issues doing it this way. The outer lock nut and lock washer (star washer) are then installed to hold the inner nut in place to maintain the preload set by the inner nut.
I suspect people can overlook the importance of bending the tabs inwards and outwards on that lock washer, so as to maintain exactly the relative positions of the inner and outer hub nuts, as I've pulled apart several Landcruiser's front hubs and found them not bent correctly (or at all) by previous Owners/technicians, which can easily lead to the hub nuts (and therefore wheel bearings) coming loose over time. It would be hard for us to recommend going outside of the method specified in the Toyota FSM without seeing a technical service bulletin or similar related to this bearing preload, which would be expected if it were a widespread issue.
A bearing packer could certainly be used here, however it is not a requirement and thorough bearing packing can easily be achieved by hand with some time and attention to detail. We have to draw the line somewhere and try to avoid using too many specialised tools in the videos so as to not make it seem off-limits to people getting started with working on their cars, and I emphasise the use of the bearing and seal driver kit specifically in this video as for the price I think that one makes the job significantly easier.
Best video for this service I have seen. Love that the torque specs were included. About how long does this job take to complete?
Thanks Steven, we really appreciate your feedback. If it's your first time attempting this job, best to allow at least a few hours per side. That being said, having the right tools, particularly brass or copper hammer, drifts and a bearing and seal driver kit can certainly streamline things
I have taken a bill of 150 (qatrai riyal) . I learned by watching your video.
Tnq broo❤
Thanks for watching Fahim!
Excellent video!
Thanks for the feedback!
Professional vid and works..! 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching mate!
Thanks, great job with detailed information
Thanks for the feedback!
this is greatest youtube video ive ever seen
That's high praise, thanks Auro!!
You earned my subscription! Excellent video makes me feel confident I can do my own too.
Thanks J R, we're glad the video helped and really appreciate you subscribing!
Awesome video! Thanks!
Thanks Vince! Appreciate your feedback
Man I need to get this done to my , great video so easy
Thanks for watching!
THANK YOU! You guys have once again given me knowledge and confidence to tackle another job on my own.
Side note, if it works for the 2006 it should apply to the 2007s as well. At least for the US models.
Hi Tom,
Thanks again for your feedback, that's greatly appreciated.
Good spot - that's correct, it is relevant to all year models of 100 series Landcruiser (IFS) or Lexus LX470, including 2007. We've corrected this in the video description.
Wouldn't it be a good idea to replace the rotors too? Looks like replacing them would require a hub job anyway.
Awesome video thanks keep those videos coming about the 100 series, injector replacement would be good for the 1hd-fte
Thanks for the feedback!
Very very very detailed.
Thank you!!
Thanks Rossot, we appreciate your feedback!
i put the bearing rae in the fridge shrinks it and fits then expands as you put it in
great, thanks. worth noting the hub nuts have a flat and rounded face to them, flat face to the axle side. And i would recomend placing the nuts on the studs before hitting them with a brass hammer, just a little bit of belt and braces..
Truly awesome video
Hi Andrew, thanks for watching and we appreciate your feedback!
Dude, this is by far the best video... a new sub. Have you guys done a timing belt change?
Thanks Onesri. We haven't got a video for a timing belt yet but it is on the list - stay tuned!
😊Help please😊
Great video, excellent!
My issue is this: I followed all instructions, but when it came to reinserting the circlip there wasn’t enough of the spline exposed for the circlip to slot in. It was only about 2 mm short of going in but even with force pushing from behind the CV, and a bolt screwed in to the thread hole at the end of the spline to pull it outward, still no success.
😊Any Suggestions🙏🏻
Amazing video very Professional and knowledgeable. I have An 80 series 1991 and I would like to know if you have any videos about transfer case mine is doing a lot of noise like hit when a change from drive to reverse very loud any information will be awesome for me if any one out there have the same issue and how you fixed. Thank you
Outstanding content man. Thank you so much 😊
No problem, thanks Chris!
Awsome video!
Thanks Henry!
gros merci de france !
Je vous en prie!
Genius !!
Thanks for watching
Good vid ,good instruction.
Thank you for watching
Awesome video! I’m getting ready to have a go at this job myself soon so this was invaluable! One question, is the 54mm hub socket a special item or will a standard 54mm socket fit in there too?
Thanks M C. Good question - It depends on the depth of the 54mm socket. Hub nut sockets are extra deep (hollow inside) to fit over the end of the CV shaft so that you can reach the nut. A regular shallow socket likely won't allow you to reach the 54mm lock nuts, hence the special tool.
Great Video, Very professional
Thanks Kristian!
Just subbed so I could be your 1000th subscriber. This video was super helpful. Good luck with the channel and now make some $
Thanks for the feedback Vince!
Brilliant 👏
Thanks for watching Hugh
Nice video, i could do mine now.
Thanks for watching and we appreciate your feedback!
Absolutely great step by step video. Thank you very much for the lesson.
Not a problem Bobby, thanks for watching
Thanks bro...
While I was finishing the job, one of my front axle hex nuts, I think over torqued. And it reached a point where when I turn it right, it wouldn’t tighten. I think the nut was spinning the bolt.
How do I fix that?
Hi mate, thanks for watching. This does happen - you can use two nuts (jammed into each other) on the stud which is spinning to tighten it back into the hub, before then removing those nuts and reinstating a single nut and torqueing it. You can also fully remove the studs (using double nut technique to loosen) and then clean and apply a threadlocker (e.g. Loctite) to ensure they won't come loose again when you put them back in.
i like to use the bearing packer pressure plunger that forces the grease thru the bearing ..fun little tool...by "gear wrench" amazon has it too..
Awesome work she's one lucky lady! I'll treat my lady to that as well.
Thanks Senj, enjoy!
Hi mate, just wondering if you still have your old bullbar? Cheers
Thanks for reaching out! Unfortunately not, I sold it a while ago.
Sir...All types of 4 wheel vehicles like this ..I mean same axle housing..like this vehicle?
Hi Mohamad, most 4wd vehicles are either solid front axle or independent front suspension (IFS) such as this vehicle. The process for changing the wheel bearings for this IFS Landcruiser is very similar to for the solid front axle Landcruisers, e.g. the 80 series
@@2ndGearLow
Thank you for Ur reply sir...I understood👍❣️
Me gustaria saber donde puedo comprar el kit completo
Hi, thanks for watching. You can order this kit from the Terrain Tamer Web Store
How come you don't explain when these need replacing and how to determine when they are bad?
Fair question and thanks for commenting - in the interests of saving time this video is not intended to cover diagnosing bad wheel bearings, where a more generic diagnosis video could apply to many vehicles, but rather demonstrate the specific parts, tools and method (e.g. torque specs) for this exact model Landcruiser or LX470. This video is more so for people who suspect they have a bad wheel bearing or are looking to change/re-pack them as preventative maintenance. I think it would've been valuable to include the recommended service interval in the video, which for reference is to "replace, change or lubricate" (i.e. re-pack with new grease or replace if required) every 20,000km (12,000 miles) or 12 months.
@@2ndGearLow supposed to do this once a year?
Where do you find that scheme?
Hi Michalo, if you are referring to the image shown on screen in the intro with the parts highlighted, there are a couple of great resources for finding these exploded diagrams. The first is the factory service manual, which has good images but no information on specific part numbers. I find the most useful resource for these to be partsouq.com , which was recommended to me by the parts department of my local Toyota service centre. You can put your VIN in and it has a lot of information about your specific car, accounting for any differences in manufacture year for example, and has full exploded diagrams with every Toyota part number on there. For this video, refer to the front axle section within suspension & axle if using the FSM.
Those races might have dropped in if you heated the bearing journals and froze the races.
Thanks for a clear, concise video, that clarifies all required on this task. Your way of working shows quality
Thank you!
Look like he forgot the clip at the start of whacking that hub 😅
Hi Quintin, I assume you're referring to getting the cone washers out, they can be quite a pain! The brass/copper hammer or bar on the end of the stud works quite well though for getting them loose
Do you recommend the terrain tamer over stock? Or was it a cost thing? Cheers
Hi Chris, I would say it's a combination of cost and convenience. For kits like these, you're looking at OEM quality parts for cheaper than you would pay to buy all the individual parts through Toyota (at least for us in Australia), and it's very convenient to be able to pick up a kit with everything you need or to carry as spares. We generally use genuine Toyota parts where possible, but for bearings, seals and the like I would certainly recommend Terrain Tamer as an equivalent. They do also make some parts which are designed to be an upgrade over Toyota, e.g. the heavy-duty rear wheel bearing seals for the 80 series
Awesome video mate. On a side note could you tell us what the size and the offset of those roh wheels is
Hi Saif, thanks for watching! These wheels are ROH Invader 17x9 35 offset
Great video mate well done so clear and informative.!!
Thanks Paul, we really appreciate your encouraging feedback
Great video for my 98 LX470. Subscribed. 👍
Thanks MrWhoevr - we appreciate your feedback and the subscription really helps!
The video is all about the procedures of changing the the front wheel bearing, lve worked on my small car front bearing. But watching this video gave me confidance to install my Land Cruiser front bearing.. Thanks you.
Thanks for the feedback David, glad it helped!
Осталось найти такой молоток с медными набойками
Thank you very much.
Hi David, not a problem, thanks for watching!