Briggs & Stratton migrated valve guide repair
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ย. 2024
- We have a Briggs V-Twin cylinder head that has the valve guide movement problem. It had caused a miss and a bent (possibly broken) pushrod. We're gonna drill the head, put a dimple the guide and install a set screw to fix her up and use on a future repair job. Let's see how it goes....
Briggs & Stratton migrated valve guide repair
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Score the guide on the sides, apply green or red lock tight then push in to line up the set screw to divit, screw in with green or red lock tight. (Terral fix's all) Source for scoring side up and applying lock tight.
I'll be doing this soon.
Thanks for your training us.
Very interesting repair. Only a little time and a set screw. It sounds like a solid repair! Thumbs 👍
I think it'll work just fine
Just finished mine. Used the set screw, then staked around it, then staked around the top and bottom side of the guide. Now just to put it back together. Thanks for your vid!
Clever solution. Good video!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for sharing. It is very detailed and l followed the instructions. Worked perfect and my rider drive charms. God bless you and wish you all the best. 🙏
chrysler had a problem on 3.0 l v6 cut a groove on the guide installed a snap ring and drove it down to the head. was a good repair. but i think your repair is great and premanent
I actually remember that Chryco repair back in the day!
I peened around a loose valve seat in an aluminum block flathead push mower. This is a very nice technique to save an otherwise shot valve guide when you don't have access to a mig welder Iike I don't.
I've seen valve seat repairs like that before. Seems to work as well
Good job, great video!
It does work great, happy seeing you trying it, can also very very lightly nerral it a tad also
This works great but most of the time I just tack guide thru port😊
A little tack weld inside is a positive stop for sure
Keep it clean! It’s not just the fins on the head! Pay attention to the casting around the exhaust valve, oil with dirt makes multiple layers from the valve cover leaking. This causes insulation and the area directly at the surrounding casting of the exhaust guide cannot cool, only get hotter and hotter. Pay attention to the carb also, if it’s to lean that means more combustion heat. All these mowers these days are running so lean by EPA standards that they are asking to self destruct.
@@magicone9327 In my humble opinion and in 5 years of running a shop, I've yet to see a lean carb cause this issue. There's going to be severe surging to the point of unuseability before it causes a head to reach the 300-350 degree death zone. It's usually mouse nests, and playing second fiddle is oil and dirt buildup.
@@mechanicallycreative9788 yes to your response, but in combination with the lean run designs nowadays it doesn’t take to much crap on the head to help create insulation, be it grass, mice or oil Leiden with dirt and oil from the leaks , then the heat builds up and the aluminum head outruns the expansion rate of the steel guide sleeve. Then disaster happens.
I never seen this before, but should work very well. A good interesting and educational video. Thank you sir. 😊
I had a Briggs 1 cylinder something similar happened except the guide moved towards the combustion chamber and held the valve (intake) open. A friend of mine has a machine shop. He removed the valve guide, knurled the guide, put it back in did a valve job on both the intake and exhaust. That engine never ran so good .
@@bourne-ib7ms
Was about half the cost of a new head.
@@bourne-ib7ms
I agree.
Bert, did you guys add loctite onto the guide after knurling or just press it in dry? I'm about to knurl a guide.
@@clydepurk7162
Yes, we used red locktite . And I waited about 22 hours before I put the head back on.
Now you can make a sheeve so it only goes in the correct depth and you’re all fixed up for next one 😊😊
That's the plan!
Tried this on mine. Worked like a charm. Thanks for the video sir. My next step was to make a new one on my lathe with a flange on the piston side
Thanks for sharing. Another way to push out the valve guide put it in a vice take a mig welder put a few spots of weld on valve side push the guide back in . that keeps it from moving out so far. Then ping around it. Just a idea .
I've seen it done that way as well. Thanks for watching
Honestly I'm probably going to try this out if the problem comes up, good job random if that works out gonna save some "loonies" 😊
It's certainly worth trying. Worst case scenario, it fails again and you need to get a new head. Best case scenario, it turns out to be better than original and NEVER fails again...lol
@randomwrenching exactly never hurts to try buddy
I’ve seen this repair one other time on TH-cam. Seems like it should be this way from the factory! I probably would have done both while I was in there and had the tools and set screws at handso no chance of a comeback with the other guide.
Very helpful, thankyou for making this video (liked and subbed). I have precisely this issue right now. Did you make a valve clearance/timing video while reinstalling?
I was wondering if this fix was possible, guess we know it is now. Next question is, will it hold/last? Time will tell, hopefully it will as new heads are hard to find.
I'm not the only one to do this repair, it seems to work fine for them.
That repair should last, and much less than the cost of a new head. That's assuming you can find a new head. 😊
Great upload, very detailed. I used a balled up t-shirt to keep the valves up. Is it normal to have that residue around the exhaust on the valve head?
Its pretty common to see
Just applied this fix next reinstall.....B&S 27hp, we'll see 👀.......
How's it holding up?
So, to be clear.... was that migrated valve guide on the intake valve, or the exhaust valve? And would it have allowed oil from the crankcase to get into the carburetor?
Sorry to hijack...the exhaust one! They got too hot for a few reasons. Generally not related to oil in carb, that could be from oil level to high (gas draining into crankcase, also common ) overfilled oil, excessive blowby/POSSIBLE plugged breather
@@johanh2319 Thank you for the reply and information, I do appreciate it! I hope that engine is still running good!
9 times out of 10 oil in the carb indicates a blown head gasket. I'm betting you have smoke coming from your air intake and dipstick after it's been running. If so shure bet it's the head gasket.
would a over size guide be available, thanks Lewis
That's a great question! I'm not sure if that is something that's available. I haven't seen them...
They pop out so easy he says…
Who says that?
Lol
Has this held up so far?
I haven't had the need to use it, but from what I've seen and heard, it usually works out just fine
I replaced the entire head and my push rods won’t set back in. Engine is at TDC. ¿¿¿
Right hole? There's multiple.
Have you ran this on a machine yet?
Not yet. But it's actually a common, valid repair I have seen on other videos.
Sir, I am having a heck of a time finding the correct product code number for new push-rods. I have a 3500 E series Briggs Twin Vanguard (18hp. The Briggs store gave me the wrong number for this model. Any assistance would be very welcome. My model and serial is - 356447 0164-e1 , if that helps!?
i like you tap holder never seen one like that that had a ratchet
It's a Pro Point brand. Sold in Canada at Princess Auto. Very handy for places you can swing a full length tap handle
Ive peened both sides of the head 8 times no comebacks. With customers permission of course.
" With customers permission of course." Absolutely! Always be sure to mention this is a shortcut repair that can save money, but there is a risk of failure down the road. Most will say its worth a try if it saves $250
@@randomwrenching You got it. Funnily the day after this comment I got one soo bad both heads had valve guides moved. Both intake and exhaust on cyl 2 and exhaust on 1. Going to replace number 2 head and repair number 1. I've never seen so much oil and dirt caked in the head as this.
I have one apart right now from a Husq ,23 HP ! Push rods bent on right cylinder ,exhaust push rod dropped in the crankcase .I don't see any cam damage or cylinder damage . This happened before and my bro in law peened the guides ,this one did not hold .Sticking out about half inch. Gonna try weld it up , I like your drill and tap method also! You do good instructing on your vids.Thanks.
A tip for you: To keep more carbon from building up, the piece should have been cleaned before putting everything back together. As it is now, you're gonna be adding carbon on top of carbon.
did you get this from taryl fixes all
I'm sure he's done it as well. It's not an uncommon repair procedure on these.
Taryl pulled it off on a Kawasaki twin pointing out this caused by failed or blocked cooling fins…fluffy the mouse strikes again.
Great idea, thanks for sharing this. Pls let us know how it worked for you
Haven't had a need for it yet, but I'll report back when I do...
I’ve been doing it for 5 years now
Not a problem at all 😊
Thanks great video
Thanks for watching!
I thought about doing this then I decided just to buy set a new cylinder heads.
That will also get it back in running order
I have a 16.50 342 briggs with bent push rods.i pulled the head and the intake valve looks like it dropped.you can visually see it in the port.are the guides supposed protrude into the port around the valve stem or has my exhaust valve somehow got pulled up?
Thanks for your video and hopefully you can help me with this!
Guides will be visible in the port. Should not sit high inside the spring though.
Great option for repair. Did a full replacement on a 27hp B&S....will try this method on any "next time"!
Excellent!
Genius...i really didn't know what you where going to do but the set screw is great.
Should work just fine. Thanks for watching
Thanks for this, made it seem not toooo......hard? I am not giving up on this tractor!!! Had to fight for it in the divorce!
They pop out so easy he says…
Who says that?
I’m on my phone and I don’t see your bell to ring. lol
Love your accent.. A
Originally from Minnesota so yeah A
Great video you have a new subscriber.
RayRay down here in the south. Always sunny and summer year round
the true solution is to have a guide say 0.002" oversize, heat the head to expand the guide bores then press the new guides on it.
any lathe can downsize an universal guide to fit your application
Look at Goodson for universal guides for the valve stem your engine uses.
Yes, of course there is an expensive and "true solution" to this.
Supper video, have exactly this problem, will try to fix guider event keeping head on engine!
Glad it helped