Valve guide repair on Briggs and Stratton Motor
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- In this video I repair the valve guide in my Briggs and Stratton motor. This motor is in my Simplicity Citation zero turn lawn mower.
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just a quick tip for somebody doing this procedure, if yiou have away fo shooting compresseed air in the spark plug hole it will hold the valve shut and it won't be sliding on you and when putting your keepers on
YOU CAN TAKE ONE OF YOUR SPARK PLUGS CHOP OFF THE METAL THREADED PART OFF OF IT DRILL OUT THE CENTER TO REMOVE ALL PORCELAN AND ELECTRODE MATERIAL THEN BRAZE A 1/4" MALE NPT FITTING ONTO IT. Then take this new device you just made and screw it into your cylinder head. Then hook your air hose to it . (100 PSI RECOMENDED ) and your valves cannot drop while you're doing your procedure. I used to use this to procedure to replace valve stem seals on automotive engines when they were still in the vehicle
@@duckflynn3849 or you can simply pack the cylinder with rope.
You can also just feed some rope or paracord in to fill the cylinder to keep the valve from being able to push in. Easier if the cylinder is positioned vertically, but could still be done.
if you have a compression tester just screw in the hose in the spark plug hole and hook up your air hose to the tester hose
Yup. Got to do this same deal on Intek V Twin 22hp. Finally happened after 530hrs on it. Glad im not the only one.
The engine being dirty speeds it up just like not charging oil
Heat really is the problem and engine cover in dirt and grass plus mice nest 😊
I saw a video of someone pushing the guide back into place then drilled a 1/8 hole on the side of head, tapped it and screwed in a small set screw to prevent the guide from pushing out. Smartest thing I ever saw
Tarel did that video but I just tack with welder thru port
@@philliphall5198
That's Taryl !
Taryl Dactal :-0)
Now, there's your dinner !
It's called common sense. 😮
Most instructive thanks.
I have the same problem on my Intek 23hp but dont have a valve puller.
You're innovation is impressive.
👍Good repair my man! The craziest BS happens nowadays w/ this new “fangled” stuff😂(per my grandpa)
Glad ya got it going. “TARYL” would be proud of you. 👀😂😂😂
saw a great tip to keep from pushing valve into cylinder. push a lawnmower pull rope, or other similar size rope, into cylinder spark plug hole, after lowering piston to bottom of cylinder. Then turn flywheel toward TDC and the rope will hold valves in.
Great tip!
Another thing you can do that I've had great luck with is before I tap the valve guide back in, I'll take a small chisel and make a couple mars on the guide itself, so when it slides back into the head, it grabs onto the aluminum from the inside, and then I'll go around the outside and get some pings into the head coming around the guide.
Great tip. Thanks
I would do any pings before inserting the guide (unless you are going to ping so hard that you would collapse the wall around the guide).
Some guys use a socket over the valve guide, I did mine with one and it worked great, My problem is that when I put it back together one of those valve keeper clips shot off into the stratosphere never to be found. I smiled when you dropped yours but at least you found it! One question, Can you push that guide in too far? Mine ended up being flush with the head. I guess I’ll find out when I go buy one valve keeper! Ha!!!! Thanks for a great video!
I don't think it's a thru hole. I think it's a counter bore. in other words I think the bushing bottoms out.
@BecksArmory mine doesn't bottom out like you thought. Wish it did.
How did you make out with the guide pushing back flush to the housing? Mine just did the same thing and I really don't want to pull the head and mess up all my gaskets if it's not going to be an issue. It seems like my valve is able to spring back closed out towards the rocker arm all the way. So I'm assuming the guide isn't "pushed in" far enough to where it's obstructing the valve on the inside of the head. Just wondering how yours worked out or if you ended up taking the head off to look?
6:00 I would remove the bolt before dimping if I was using that fix
But the fix I used was to frill and tap and use a stainless steel helicoil.
After that you can torque it down even tighter than stock specs without any problem.
Hi, I was wondering if you could help me with the sizes you used for your tap, die and helicoil?
@@Art-ji2hx
I used drill bit size 17/64 (.266)
and HeliCoil # 5521-4 which is 1/4-20
(1/4 width 20 threads per inch)
@@Art-ji2hx
Today I fixed a slipped exhaust valve guide on a Briggs v-twin (model 445667)
I removed the valve
then poistioned the valve guide where I wanted it (just a tiny bit sticking into the exhaust chamber)
then drilled a 1/8" hole through about the center of where the guide sits the head until the bit went through the guide (just one side not all the way through)
then removed the guide,
tapped the hole with 6-32 tap
then position the valve guide back into the head aligning the holes (in the head and the valve guide) then put a nut on a 6-32 x 3/8" machine screw (both stainless though any type of metal would do).
Slide the valve into the valve guide (you should be able to lookinto the hole and see it passes through) and then screw the bolt into the tapped hole but not deep enough to touch the valve stem. Then tighen down the 6-32 nut (snug, not too tight). Finished! Ready to re-assemble. Will do that tomorrow.
Added one more thing - put a hose clamp around the outside housing where that valve goes through the head and had it on top of the bolt/net that is screwed in - just to double assure it will stay in place.
Put it all back together today and mowed about 2 hours with no problems.
NEXT!
So this is second time you bent rods?
Just did mine today massive clog of grass clippings packed on left cylinder head causing mine to overheat..
I put Access caps on my housing to do inspections from now on I feel like I will be taking the valve cover off the left side periodically to see how it is doing easier to do that than to replace the push rods
I will start the first inspection after 20 hours to see how it is doing.
Maybe I don’t even make it that long… I just know it will be running much cooler than what it was
my Simplicity dealer said that there was a stretch of time were the valve stems would work there way out when the motor go too hot. He said he has not seen it happen to any of the new heads he has put on. I also try to keep a better eye on the grass build up inside the blower area now.
Did your repair last?
I just tack them with welder thru ports, it will not move again, customer saves money and I get paid
good idea
I hammered the exhaust valve guide flush with the surface. Is this a problem? Thinking it's only a problem if the guide is out too much preventing spring to fully compress.
I did not see you install the valve guide seal.
Only seal on intake. None on exhaust guide.
Given the expense of the entire engine and the mower, is it at all wise to beat on a cheap pushrod (especially when you already have a new one)? Staking the valve guide is a temporary fix but can last for a season of home use. but to reuse a weakened pushrod may fail and result in more work or damage. You didn't really peen the guide well with only four points. It's your personal machine...it's your call.
Yes this is my personal machine and this fix allowed me to finish the summer. Over the winter I took it back to the dealer who put a new head and push rods in.
Hi, have same problem for briggs engins Husquarna snow blower . Found other solution how to hold guider with bolt in block fro outside.
Thanks for sharing
The fan on my 28 year old 16 hp Vanguard motor on my Simplicity Broadmoor mower blows upward, pulling air past the cooling fins. The fan on the 25hp briggs motor on my 52 inch Ferris sucks air downward. It constantly gets blocked with grass. Why did Briggs do this???? Every damn manufacturer of everything have lost their collective minds.
yeah, I agree. I work in an Engineering office (day job) and there are a massive amount of new Engineers without a lot of comin sense these days. Nobody wants to pay for experience anymore. I think they are going for maximum air flow but disregard the existence of debris. Debris is a pretty major factor...
@@BecksArmory And a lot of engineers that can't spell common. Lolol
I woulda tried red loc-tite. Just for the hell of it..
Green is even better :-0)
@@2Truth4Liberty. Green #638 is for these cylindrical applications. Trying it now. New heads too pricy!
I wonder if a high temperature loctite bearing retainer would work?
possibly. This fix got me to the end of the summer. I than was able to get a whole new head.
Yes
No
@@toddpeters9007 the high temperature Loctite would definitely work
@@user-mc9zb9hw4d thats what I'm doing. Green locktite. #638 . For cylindrical applications. Clean with carb cleaner first. I peened mine, but it only tasted 4 mowings.
@beck’s armory How did this repair hold up?
It held up the rest of the summer than I took it into the dealer and they put a new head on it for me.
I cant find these heads anymore.. suggestions?
They are available but new part numbers... 799088 is now 84001918 and 799089 is now 84001919... pricey new so if you're trying to save some money with used, I recommend at least buying new valve guide seals as used heads waiting to sell will probably have dried out and hard seals and it will smoke.Valve guide seal part number 690968 which also supercedes a bunch of older part numbers. Hope that helps.
Watch out buying used ones, they just press it back and call it a good head😊
Music very unnecessary
Totally agree, the music destroys the the whole video.