I must have looked a 2 dozen video's. This it by far the best instructional video I have seen! Clear, detailed, informative and to the point without any of the useless stories that the others spend most of their time on. Thank you Foxboss9!
This video saved me big $ a couple years ago. The valve seat did push back out again a week ago and instead of spending $150/head I pressed the seat out and tig welded a bead around the base of the seat and installed again seems to be working great so far. Thank you for the video man.
I have a 26 hp Briggs in a craftsman mower twin Intel engine. I had the same failure. I was about to install the heads and decided to just check and see if there was anything else that could have happened to the engine and came across your video. What a life saver! I never checked the valve guides. Low and behold, I have a bad head. You do a nice video. I like how you also noted the different style pushrods and their location. Thanks much for the video.
Thank you my new best friend. Because of your video, I got mine out through the dipstick. I started fishing and could not believe my eyes when I saw the rod, but not expecting it I dropped it back into the pan. But two more tires and out it came. My lawn tractor (JD LA120) is old so I was just going to let it stay in there and take my chances as I was not about to rip the motor apart on a 14 year old lawn tractor. Thanks again,
So glad I found this video. I have a 23hp Briggs Intek on my Husqvarna that keeps bending push rods, and it never occurred to me to check the valve guides. Great vid!!!
Having previously pulled my Intek V Twin apart to remove a pushrod once before...I just wanted to say thanks for idea of extracting it from the oil tube. Got it on my first try! Hours and money saved by that trick alone. You're my hero for the week!
Cool video very informative, I have worked on engines of all types for many many years and I have found that the intek engines will have valve guides that have moved in them fairly regularly , it's not because of a bad engine design but rather from extended use over hours and hours of continuous use like cutting several hours only to stop and gas up , check oil and go again , or if you cut really thick grass and cut it low at a faster than what you should speed it puts a hell of a strain on the engine and that causes excessive heat , the aluminum head expands more than the steel valve guide does and it causes the valve guide to move out of place ! Also I had a strange experience a while back while mowing grass , everything was going great, grass wasn't that thick and blades we're sharp and all of sudden my 20 horse ohv single cylinder intek revved all the way and died with a struggle like i had ran over a huge pile of rope and I thought I had , but upon looking I didn't see anything an when I checked oil level it was good and when I attempted to start the engine it sounded off like it was out of time or , what I thought was maybe the oil pump went out , but anyway I pushed it on the trailer and went home and pulled the engine and replaced it with another one , now I didn't do anything to the engine and I still have it , but later this almost happened again and I managed to turn the blades off before the engine died and when I looked the deck had dropped all the way down to the lowest cutting height !! Well guess what ?? The dam spring that holds pressure against the height lever to keep it locked into the detented height guages the little grooves that are made into the side body , yeah those , well the little spring was there but the long part of the spring was missing , broke , so THATS WHAT happened with the last time so my other intek engines probably ok just maybe a bent push rod ?? Now I gotta find out !! So here's your million dollar tip , check your deck height lever handle make sure the spring that holds it firmly in the selected cutting groove is ok and NOT BROKE !!!
Excellent down to earth explanations. Very easy to follow and understand, even for a novice. This gentleman is a credit to his profession as well as looking out for the best interest of his customer. I am impressed.
I have a 19,5 HP and thought this was the problem but found the rocker arm stud had unscrewed from the head and the pushrod was dislocated from the lifter ! Put all back right again and the old Gal ran like a top again ! Thanks for the excellent video !
Thank for this video! I have a 24 HP V-Twin Intek and the valve guides have slide out and the exhaust push rod on one side was gone. I tried your trick with the magnet on a stick down the dipstick tube and got the push rod out. The push rod had been cut in half and I got both halves out through the dipstick tube. Saved me a lot of labor time and saved my customer a lot of money. Thanks again!
Excellent Presentation. Im having this exact problem with my 2015 B&S Platinum V-Twin 22HP engine on my Craftsman Z6000 zero - turn with 425 hours on the clock. Ive checked the Ignition coils, the two Diodes in the kill wire for the Ignition coils, fuel supply, and spark plugs. I can unplug the plug wire from the dead left cylinder and it still starts up and runs nicely but has low power , and only the mower deck will bog it down in taller grass , grass that I used to drive through at high speed effortlessly. It runs quiet and cuts smooth right now if I drive it real slow. I will check my vacuum operated fuel pump to verify enough fuel supply tomorrow , before pulling the valve covers and checking the items you described in excellent detail in this video. Thank you very much for this video. And also for you not cussing or using trashy language. Your addition of the info about acquiring a new head assy will be my route if I have bent push rods. Thanks again.
Good video, its exactly what happened to my B and S 24hp, was searching how far to tap the guides back down and never dawned on me to peen the aluminum....the husqvarna mower is 15 years old, and I really have nothing to lose by trying this, great vid!
I just used your information to fix my 25 HP engine. It has bent 3 exhaust rods in the last year. Nobody, even the repair shop after a $300 tune up, fuel tank clean out, fuel line replacement (left off the clamp), and new battery. I replaced the carb after the second round when the rod bent and the back firing started again on shutdown. It started to be hard to start again and yesterday it popped on start up and was running on one cylinder. I guess I was lucky. My rods always dropped right into the valley and never moved. By the way. I found the easier way to keep the valve seated is to put a cylinder tester adapter in the spark plug hole and attach an air hose. One hundred P.S.I. will keep the valves seated to remove the spring keepers and reseat the guide and not have to put anything into the cylinder. For others FYI valve lash is .04. Thank's again for saving me $160 for the #1 cylinder head.
My guess is that the backfiring is caused by the rocker hitting the valve guide as it is in the process of working it's way outward before the point of failure, short stroking the valve. Then finally it moves out too much and then the pushrod breaks. My father-in-laws would backfire before his failed as well.
Great video. Thanks. I love Briggs engines but i could not believe they didn't make these push rods big enough that they couldn't get sucked into the engine if they bent or came loose untill it happened to mine. i couldn't get it out with a magnet so i had to remove the engine and sump and there it was. same I had a bent intake push rod on the other side about 2 years ago but it didn't get sucked down into the engine.
Have never left a comment about a video. Just wanted you to know it was great for my engine problem. Even got my push rod out through dip stick hole. Thanks!
Fyi it's still helping people. In my case (luckily) it was just the support stud for the exhaust rocker coming loose but your video showed how it was all supposed to be. Quick tighten, check clearances, and fired up fine. Thanks for the video!
Thanks for the great video - Amazing that you described my exact problem. To add to the knowledge base. I tried the magnet on a stick approach but got nothing. However, next I used my Android endoscope to look around at the bottom of the dipstick tube - voila! I could see it off to the side. After I removed the dipstick tube I could actually see the rod and easily direct the magnet to grab and pull it out. Thanks again for saving me the trouble of tearing down the motor.
Thanks for the explanation, just ripped mine apart and was baffled by the missing pushrod. Hopefully I get as lucky as you and can fish it out. Fingers crossed
I just replaced the carburetor on my 15yr 24 horsepower v-twin and I had the red round ring intake gasket but the carb kit came with the stick on intake gasket so I just used both. Seems to be working fine so far.
My man! Great video, it was extremely helpful. Especially the tip about using the magnetic pickup to to remove the missing push rod, 3 tries and it was out. Saved me a ton of time and trouble. Many thanks.
great video, this will help, once I get the right rod. Local shop sold me what I could tell was aluminum rod for the steel exhaust rod. Took it back with a magnet to show, they gave me a steel one, but the diameter is smaller than original. Not much confidence in what I hoped wouldn't be the hardest part of the whole job...getting the part! thx
I fished my rod out of the small hole in the jug with a small extension style magnet. I bent the tip so that I could fish around. It took [what seemed forever] but I finally did find something loose in there. I had better luck after moving the crank to BDC. Thanks for your help.
Great video. I hammered the exhaust valve guide flush with the surface. I'm still having backfiring issues. Is this a problem? Thinking it's only a problem if the guide it out too much preventing the spring to compress all the way.
All the V- Twins seem to bend pushrods. I've read Kohler, Kawasaki, Briggs etc. All have a common problem. I wished you could've shown us how you compressed the spring to get the collets out. Is there a special tool you need for when the heads are on ??
hi great video,took my valve case off to find my valve rocker was not on valve ,valve sat still in place and not bent.put top dead center and put back rocker onto valve.spun engine by hand and all seems ok checked other push rod and was ok,have not tried to start engine yet.what could have caused this thanks wayne.
Just wanted to give you a small update to my situation. I ordered a gasket set, a new head, an oil seal and new push rods. Got everything installed. The steel exhaust pushrod was in the sump and was shaped like a "U". I'm guessing it got twisted while in the sump but I have no way of knowing for sure. It didn't look like anything else got damaged. Thanks for posting the video that pointed to the source of my problems! Now if I can just get the governor adjusted properly!
FB9 have you ever broke a torx off into Those rocker adjustment nut how would you remove that??? Great video on the push rod. Hammer method works great for me.
This is the exact problem I have. Hoping I get lucky on the missing Push rod. The Head was $129.02 with free shipping on you Link today. Thank you for the video.
TO KEEP VALVES FROM SLIDING BACK, you can use the hose from compression tester (the kind with a quick connector hose), screw it into the spark plug hole, then put about 40 pounds air into cylinder. Do this with piston TDC on compression stroke. A socket on flywheel nut, along with a handle to turn against anything to keep engine from turning holds it in place. Higher air pressure fine (remember, the engine normally has much higher) but 35 to 40 pounds pressure usually more than adequate to push against valves and hold them in place.
You mentioned that the aluminum pushrod is for the intake (@2:45) From diagrams I've seen online the aluminum pushrod rod is for the exhaust. Any ideas which is correct?
Dude I almost just replaced the pushrods without checking the guides ! You saved me a headache , I should have known better but .. how do you adjust valve lash ?
Thanks so much for the instruction. Exactly what happened to the Husqvarna 2452 I picked up recently (cheap!).. grass blocked the right jug, exhaust valve guide came out and botta bing bent push rod..drove and peened the valve guide, replaced head gasket, push rods, set all valve lash, and it now purrs..what I don't understand is why the INTAKE push rod was also bent, although not as badly as the exhaust, even tho the intake guide did not come out..??
Just inherited a free mower with a 20HP Intek running on one cylinder. The cylinder with the rats nest and cram packed full of grass has an exhaust valve guide that seems to have sunken into the head and both pushrods are bent. I'm glad I watched this because I was getting ready to replace both heads with the assumption that the other one might lose a guide at any moment, but now I know the probable cause of the failure so I think I'll assume the side that wasn't overheating is going to last a while longer. Thanks!
What do you think about using a die grinder with a small cutoff wheel and cutting a small groove around the outside of the guide so it will sit just below the surface after you push the guide back in place? Think the peening would fill that groove and hold it better if you did that?
Excellent video. Just wanted to add something if I may. If you can't get that broken push rod out through the dipstick tube, tip that tractor on its side after draining the oil, and try again. If you have to pull the engine still, turn it on its side on the bench before splitting the engine and thats how I got mine out. Thanks again.
As as you don't have a hydrostat transmission that has a remote reservoir..even then make sure the trans has breather vent blocked off before laying entire tractor on side..
Same problem. I left the pushrod in the crankcase two seasons ago. Drove the guide back in with lock tight. Lasted 3 more 1 acre cuts this year then bent another rod. Used the peening method. Noticed the valve stem was now hard to move in the guide. Ran for about 20 minutes of mowing when that cylinder let go. Opened it up again and found the rocker arm bolt had pulled out of the aluminum. I don't have a helicoil set, so, Time for the new head.
Nice video. Thx. Rebuilding my Intek right now. Exact same issue. Was fortunate enough to find a pair of nice used heads with good seats on eBay at a very reasonable price. Fingers crossed. No way I'm spending $180-$200 for a new single head.
Perfect!!! I checked the valves for bind, and noticed the exhaust on both cylinders had limited travel (because it was bottoming out on the valve guide). Thanks!!!
I have a lawn tractor that keeps bending the exhaust push rods 1-3 times a summer season, sometimes within a week other months apart. both heads will bend them. This explains alot as we have checked for debris causing overheating and oil changes are done often now.
Yep, the only thing that will bend those rods is when there is resistance against them. And 99.9% of the time it is when the valve guides grab the pushrods.
I know this vid is a 100 years old but you never showed how the new head will fix this problem .... What did B+S change on the new head to fix this defect?? Or will the 300$ replacement still have the same problem?? Thanks.
My 24hp B&S is losing power after about 30 minutes of mowing and starts to run rough immediately. Is this going to only 1 cylinder or both sticking? Do you need to drain the oil to pull the covers off? I just changed the oil.
I didn't notice how you removed the valve springs. Do I need a special tool for that? I have a valve spring compressor for the flat head engine. I'm working on a B&S 10 hp single OHV engine from a Gen Power 305 generator. Thanks.
I had this EXACT issue w my John Deere Ztrac 757 today! Was mowing and suddenly noticed that the mower had a difficult time keeping the blades/pto going and moving at the same time. So checked spark, fine. Checked pulling each plug wire at a time, sure enough it was only running on one cylinder. Pulled the valve cover and both push rods bent! Looks like guides are out just as was shown here, going to try to peening method and order two new push rods. ^both of my original push rods are steel!! Also I found a small very thin spring int the valve cover??? Not sure where that came from! Pulled the other valve cover and looks like the guides where starting to back themselves out as well!!! So I’m going to give this method a try, change the oil, filter, new plugs (General tune up!). Install new push rods after seating snd peening the guides and send it!! Mower is a 2008 but only has 228 hours on it so I’m shocked this happened honestly! I use this mower for homeowner use, not commercially even though it’s more on the commercial style mower. Any thoughts on the small very thin spring? And I’m a bit concerned that BOTH pushrods bent on the left head (V-Twin) which again concerns me! How would both bend at the same time?
Hey, I have this exact problem with my mower. Ive never messed with valves before. I have two questions. 1. How do you know what the correct position of the valve guide is? 2. Would there ba an issue with just tack welding the side of the guide so you never have to worry about it?
Well, 1" look at the other guides that haven't pushed out to compare, take a look at the video closeup of my repaired head to get an idea...It just needs to be close.. As far as welding it would be extremely difficult welding cast aluminum to brass without distorting/destroying guide or head boss...
Have Briggs and Stratton 16hp ohv has compression 145psi both cylinders has spark check plug to ground has fuel but won’t even pop with starting fluid got me stumped?
My neighbour come to me to check his mower for no power. I found a missing push rod. I made the mistake of striping down the mower to get the push rod out. After it was apart I found I could of just pulled it out of the drain plug. I should of watched your video first. Thank you great video.
Great info on the valve guides ...so, how do I go about reinstalling and gapping new push-rods after I mixed-up everything? The rocker arms on my twin OHV have the adjustment screw on the push-rod end of the rocker-arm with no way to use a feeler gauge. GOT A VIDEO ON THIS?
What do you think about if a guy has to buy a new head, maybe just use aluminum brazing rod around the valve guide hole and then re-milling it? I've repaired aluminum that way before but I guess a guy would have to know the specs and tolerances and have machining skills or take it to a machine shop if it was even worth it. Just a thought. Nice and informative video , thanks.
Steve Jones it works that way too.. But these engines aren't high compression high RPM Automotive Style quality things. So something as simple as just peening like a show in the video is usually plenty strong enough to hold the guide for moving again. As long as the engine doesn't get overheated or run low on oil or anything like that. Thanks for watching! Thanks for the comment! Great idea! :-)
9:48 Rather than peening on that hump, I think I have seen someone drill and tap a hole perpendicular to the valve guide through the side of that hump and then install a set screw to hold the guide in place. I am not sure how they did that. Perhaps you also have to drill through the side of the head as well and reach the hump by going through that hole in the side of the head -- and then plug that hole as well.
Very informative. Thanks for the help. I was able to get my father in law mowing again. Funny, on his mower the intake push rod was slightly loose but otherwise fine. The exhaust was thankfully still sitting up in the head but very bent. No problems at all with the right head. Out of curiosity, could this possible be caused by not keeping the valves adjusted properly?
Foxboss9 yep it was the guides. I put new rods in and rolled it over by hand. The exhaust rod bent on the first rotation. Time for new heads. Thanks! You have been very helpful!
I have a question if you could help me out. I'm working on a guys craftsman lawnmower. It has a 24hp briggs V-twin and he wanted me to get it running. It turned over fine sounded good while turning over and everything. I checked for fuel, spark, air, compression. All was good I thought. It was firing but wouldn't start. Not even when I sprayed it with carb cleaner or ether. So I pulled the carb and cleaned it just to be safe and still nothing. I pulled both valve covers off and both intake pushrods are bent. Both of them. I was thinking maybe someone didnt set the valves correctly but it looks like this was the first time the valve covers have ever been taken off. Why did both pushrods bend. I haven't messed with it anymore but plan to tomorrow. Just wanting to know why both intake aluminum pushrods bent. Very strange
Just got one of these, previous owner had it worked on by a shop.. intake pushrod broke and the exhaust bent... I think they used aluminum for both. What size carbuerator does this use? I've seen that they use a 2 barrel and for fun I would like to make it dual carb. Also, do you know if they make performance parts for this engine?
I had the issue of back firing and low power on mine. 570 hours on the engine a 441777 22 horse. Did the rebuild on the carb, and it ran better but still not well for a week. Then back to the rough running back firing and missing. Taking a play from my old and long gone grand dad. I chucked up a drill on each of the valves and pulled firmly back against the valve seats and spun the hell out of them. Voila', problem fixed. Afterwards I sprayed a little water into the intake with it revved up to about 2500 and all the crystallized carbon ( the problem) created by a over heating event is gone out the muffler in a big black cloud. 30 hours later its still running fine.
The issue I came across with mine was a valve seat inside the head came loose and wedged the valve so it couldn't move. I tapped it back in. Now waiting on gaskets and a push rod
I have 19.5Hp Briggs ohv twin cylinder the aluminum push rods are on the bottom side on both cylinders of the head noticed your video showed them being on top what's going on? don't think value covers never been off.
what would be the valve guide height....??? 1/2" maybe...or less than that? Im hoping that my case is the "1 in a 100" , exactly what happened to mine, intake rod bent, and exhaust rod VANISHED! lol
Great video. Both push rods "disappeared" on My 23hp Intek. Based on you vid I probably need to remove the engine, find the rods somewhere in the the oil sump, and repair valve guides or replace head. Does that sound right? Would there be any other reason the push rods would "disappear" ?
Unless the camshaft broke... But you will need to most likely remove the engine due to the aluminum intake pushrod not being magnetic.. at that point you can inspect for other damage..
Great Video I have a similar problem I recently bought one of the engines used and its #2 valve assy (minus both push rods) was apart but the valves,guides and springs were in place and I purchased new push rods,put it together, adjusted the valves, and started it up, ran alright for a few hours then started popping and missing with a loss of power. Now I have removed the #2 valve cover to find not only the exhaust rod bent but also the intake. Thanks to your video I found that my exhaust guide is out to far so I put it in as you showed but the intake only has a rubber oil seal so what could I do to keep my new one from bending again? Note the guy that I bought the motor from also said the rods were bent so I am going to try to get in touch with him to see if both valves were retrieved.
Kelly Vance the valve guides are both made from similar materials. The rubber seal that you are referring to is a umbrella seal used to aid in keeping oil from coming up the valve and also as protection from oil passing by the guide and into the cylinder..So,you will needs to remove that seal and push that guide in and peen it also.. The fact it was bought in a broken condition would lead me to believe he didn't retreive the old pushrods but it's going to take pulling the engine apart to know for sure unless the PO can guarantee he got them out.. Glad the video helped😊 good luck 👍
Thank you for the information. I'm biting the bullet and purchasing a new head for the cylinder that had the valve guide wander out. Next step is sealing up my shed and putting the mice to "sleep"
All the videos I've watched and everything I've researched the aluminum push rod goes on the exhaust side. This doesn't make sense to me because the exhaust side gets hotter than the intake side. Can someone please tell me who's right lol.
my mower started, went to cut grass engaged the blade started cutting, the motor lugged down and stopped. I took the belt turned the motor, locked,then went forward and locked again what caused this
Exact same thing happened to me. I was able to fish the pushrod out of the dipstick hole as mentioned. Mud dauber nest was the culprit. Engine has 725 hours. Thanks
Great video. discovered the valve guide extended outward. Couple questions, how did you get the valve springs off in your video without a valve spring compressor? How would you get them back on? and you commented the new head assembly from Briggs at around $90. The link to amazon shows the head I want, with the components you show within the box, but now at $190. Your thoughts? Tom DeMarco
I found a bent push rod but my question is I have no compression and the mower won't start. Could the bent push rod cause my mower not to start at all?
Absolutely. If the intake rod is the one that is bent then your intake valve will not open to allow air and fuel to enter into the combustion chamber. If the exhaust Rod is bent then your exhaust valve will not open to allow the burnt gases to exit so as to let new fresh air and fuel in the combustion chamber. Even if both push rods were absolutely straight and your valves were slightly Miss adjusted it would cause it not to run. So definitely your bent pushrod is causing it not to run
does this happen on the vanguard engines as well? have you ever had slightly bent pushrods where a compression test will still read good, but the intake valve is not opening all the way, causing a restriction on the intake stroke? I think my problem is a bad coil though, but that engine was run out of oil, I have already had the valve cover off and everything seems to fit nicely, there's no excessive play on the rockers. Compression was 120psi and the good cylinder was 110psi. I tested each cylinder for misses by disconnecting 1 ignition wire, then swapping to the other, the 120 psi cylinder ran very poorly with a lot of misses. Spark voltage was good, jumped at least 1/2", so bad capacitor in the coil? Spark doesn't get hot enough because there is no amperage behind the spark? That cylinder was also much more sensitive to changes in mixture, slight choking would kill it, but good cylinder would take 3/4 choke to kill. Also has a lot of oil coming out the breather and it builds up on the throttle plate and in the carb at idle , then dumps into the engine when opening the throttle and it puffs some oil smoke for a few seconds. Would this be due to a plugged up oil drain port in the head? Would I still get 120 and 110psi compression if there was abnormal blowby?
99% of the time the coil either works or doesn't work there's no medium failure. Not saying that it couldn't happen especially if you have a SAM unit (spark advance module) , which some of the manufacturers did. If you do have a spark advance module it's best just to buy a new coil that will replace the current coil and you no longer have to run that module. It's a box that could be half the size of a pack of cigarettes. Make sure you have your air gap set correctly for your coil as that is important and also make sure your flywheel key is not partially sheared causing a timing issue. Bent pushrods are easy to diagnose as you can pull them out of the engine and roll them on a flat surface to see if there's any Bend to them. You may have an issue with the valves needing adjusted because of valve seat wear. Before you overthink it though, make sure that all the basics have been checked because tearing into an engine that there's nothing wrong is a pain in the butt because you didn't cover the basics first and something as simple as a bad spark plug could cause fits. And remember the other general rule just because a part is new doesn't mean that it's good part. Good luck.
Let me start by saying thanx for the help youve already given me. So my Husqvarna had a valve guide pop out and bent the aluminum push rod and sent the steel one into the engine. I too got lucky and was able to get it out through the dipstick hole. It was bent and had some battle scars on it. The mower was still running after it happened just sounded like a helicopter. No metal sounds or smoke just poppin in the intake. I was gonna peen the guide, replace the rods, regap the valves, new head gasket and see what happens. What ya think? Any pointers or suggestions? Think the motor is fine? Any help appreciated. Thanx in advance. Nate
N8Dogg1002 Sounds pretty typical.. It's worth a shot to repair by peening. Make sure the guide is the correct depth before "peening" it back in.. Other than that pretty much straight forward.. Good luck..
Hello, in my case I was given an 26hp twin mower that has been sitting for approx. three years. I replaced plugs, filters, oil. When it started it popped and backfired, then the popping stopped. It had week power and I found little compression on one cyl. Took off valve cover and found the intake push rod out of the rocker arm The push rod is not bent. Perfectly straight. What do you think happened in my case? Thanks in advance.
Make sure the valve guides are not pushed out and reinstall everything... Then rotate engine by hand and watch to make sure all movement looks good... There is probably something that caused the issue but you'll need to reinstall everything to find out what is going on...
I do have a question about the factory replacement head. Has B & S acknowledged the problem and made revisions to the replacement head that will prevent valve guide from moving out of position. Something else came to mind. I "peened" my valve guide before I saw this video. I noticed that in at least some cases you remove the head and "peen" from the inside. Have you seen instances where the valve guide moves to the combustion chamber side? If this is common, I might rethink and pull the head and "peen" from the inside. Thank you.
BIG DADDY no Briggs really hasn't addressed it because the problem is not really a manufacturing problem what it is, the engine has overheated or it has been run low on oil to cause the guide to swell and grab the valve stem as the valve is being moved. I've never had one go in towards the combustion chamber because the camshaft and the geometry through the rocker arm is such that it does not exert enough Force to push it inward. Not near as much as the combustion, explosion process that will definitely move the guide even though it's hanging onto the valve. The reason I pin the inside is to give two points of contact all the way around the guide on each end of the guide so that it has a hard time moving outward because it's being held even on the inside too.
Thanks for the peeing explanation! I’ve got the head off my 24 hp V-twin and will do this after I get everything cleaned up. Do you happen to remember the head bolt torque specs?
video is a little long, but after watching it all im glad. lots of good info. thanks for making it. keep up the good work. its all about saving a buck. and you clearly help with that.
I'm worried 😩 while I was gone for a couple months on a job my daughters did the mowing on our couple acres and forgot to put oil in it and my wife said the INTEK 24 HP twin V OHV engine just made a loud noise and " locked up " and died immediately. When she went to turn the key to start it again it did absolutely NOTHING!!!! Not even a sound ... a new replacement motor is in the $800 + range. Well I'm watching you to see if I can fix this myself. I am a back yard mechanic and can figure things out myself but I have no idea if it's fixable or what is wrong and what to look for . What do you think it is that happened? This has been an incredible mower and I don't really have that kind of money to replace a engine like that at this time. Please if you can help I'd appreciate it very much 😊 thank you.
Love4raine firstly inspect the sides of the engine block for large cracks or holes(I suspect there isn't any or you would have an oil leak unless the crack is still sealed). If all looks good drain the remaining oil out of block and put fresh oil up to correct level... third- make sure key is off and reach under frame and grab the engine drive pulley (gloves on and position yourself accordingly to get a good grip) try to rotate the engine by hand (really hard at first) If needed use pipe wrench on pulley shaft(exposed between drive sheets and deck sheeve) if engine breaks loose try to rotate it 360 degrees. do that about 4 or 5 revolutions... Now, Start engine, with battery jump start possibly) and run engine at full throttle for 20 minutes straight... If you can't get the engine to turn by hand or if the engine will only rotate so far in each direction but clunks and comes to a dead half THEN you need a new engine... If you get the engine to run, but it has low power, is leaking oil profusely or smokes out the exhaust constantly, you'll need a new engine..... I don't recommend that this as a fix ....however, I have had moderate success doing this in the past.. good luck..
GAH! Had terrible power going uphill. Checked behind the left valve cover. Both push rods fell out in my hand. They were both still straight so I just put them back in place. Checked behind the right valve cover and the aluminum push rod is bent. The steel push rod is nowhere to be seen. Now the joy of figuring out how to remove the flywheel! First, however, I will try to pull the rod out through the dipstick tube.
Bought a telescoping magnet just like yours and stuck it down the dipstick tube...nothing. 1) Is there any access to the sump via the oil filter port? (There is NOT via the oil drain port.) 2) How much access to the sump is available via the dipstick tube? In other words, am I going to have to take the engine off of the mower to access the sump in order to find the old push rod?? Bought a new push mower yesterday to get my lawn mowed but an acre is a royal pain!
If you didn't get lucky like I did you'll have to do like the video mentions, pull the engine.. That is why I was so pumped about snagging the push rod right away.. You can try tipping the mower on it's right side and turn the engine by hand to see if you can get it to slide over to the dipstick but thats really it. If it don't get picked out the dipstick you need to pull the engine..Try to see where it is looking though the opening when you take the head off(if you take the head off).. Good Luck
I have had a lot of Briggs ohv engine that run ok but have a slight knock don't sound like it's a rod Iran one for over a year it never got any worse. Is this common with Briggs ohv engines.
Most the time if the knock is light and the engine runs strong I recommend that oil changes get done regularly and that possibly a lucas oil additive be used.. Most times that knock can be generated from the counter balance system used in some of the Briggs engine and just make noise and don't cause much issue..
I just happen to stumble on this video and I am very happy about that it explains a huge mystery. Today, 6/30. I had a Tech come to look at an issue I've been having with my mower. After it warms up, with the blades engaged. I lose power. It is a Craftsman and has a InTek v- twin engine 25HP. I have had it for 13 year and this is the first time I have had a major problem. The Tech tested a few things and found that the left side is not operating and thus I am running on one cylinder. He took the valve cover off and part of the aluminum push rod fell to the ground. We could not find the steel push rod and the other half of the aluminum one. After looking at this video it verifies that the steel and rest of the aluminum rod went down to the engine sump. I've been having this issue for several weeks so I am very fortunate that the steel rod and the other half of the aluminum rod did not cause any major damage. The Tech said that it is probably is in the sump. He had a steel rod but not an aluminum one. He had to order it. When he comes back, and am going to tell him about this video and suggest we try to "fish" out the steel rod. Since we found only 1/2 of the aluminum rod, i am concerned that a magnetic retrieval tool will not get it out.
I'm going to try using a magnet to get the steel push rod out. As for the rest of the aluminum push rod that was broken, It has to be in the oil sump pan. Not sue how to get that out.
I must have looked a 2 dozen video's. This it by far the best instructional video I have seen! Clear, detailed, informative and to the point without any of the useless stories that the others spend most of their time on. Thank you Foxboss9!
Thanks for the compliment.. I appreciate it.. Glad it helped..
This video saved me big $ a couple years ago. The valve seat did push back out again a week ago and instead of spending $150/head I pressed the seat out and tig welded a bead around the base of the seat and installed again seems to be working great so far. Thank you for the video man.
I pushed the guide out and used red lock tight on it. We will see how it goes
@@billbraski2175 good luck man. My welded fix is still going strong.
I have a 26 hp Briggs in a craftsman mower twin Intel engine. I had the same failure. I was about to install the heads and decided to just check and see if there was anything else that could have happened to the engine and came across your video. What a life saver! I never checked the valve guides. Low and behold, I have a bad head. You do a nice video. I like how you also noted the different style pushrods and their location. Thanks much for the video.
Awesome catch.. Thanks for watching!
Thank you my new best friend. Because of your video, I got mine out through the dipstick. I started fishing and could not believe my eyes when I saw the rod, but not expecting it I dropped it back into the pan. But two more tires and out it came. My lawn tractor (JD LA120) is old so I was just going to let it stay in there and take my chances as I was not about to rip the motor apart on a 14 year old lawn tractor. Thanks again,
Man. This really helped me figure out the problem with my 22hp motor. Couldn’t have done it without you.
So glad I found this video. I have a 23hp Briggs Intek on my Husqvarna that keeps bending push rods, and it never occurred to me to check the valve guides. Great vid!!!
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Having previously pulled my Intek V Twin apart to remove a pushrod once before...I just wanted to say thanks for idea of extracting it from the oil tube. Got it on my first try! Hours and money saved by that trick alone. You're my hero for the week!
+Scott Scheff Thanks! Seeing that pushrod coming out on the end of the magnet is a pretty good feeling isn't it?! 😁
Yes Sir! Glad no one saw the celebratory dance in the garage!
Cool video very informative, I have worked on engines of all types for many many years and I have found that the intek engines will have valve guides that have moved in them fairly regularly , it's not because of a bad engine design but rather from extended use over hours and hours of continuous use like cutting several hours only to stop and gas up , check oil and go again , or if you cut really thick grass and cut it low at a faster than what you should speed it puts a hell of a strain on the engine and that causes excessive heat , the aluminum head expands more than the steel valve guide does and it causes the valve guide to move out of place ! Also I had a strange experience a while back while mowing grass , everything was going great, grass wasn't that thick and blades we're sharp and all of sudden my 20 horse ohv single cylinder intek revved all the way and died with a struggle like i had ran over a huge pile of rope and I thought I had , but upon looking I didn't see anything an when I checked oil level it was good and when I attempted to start the engine it sounded off like it was out of time or , what I thought was maybe the oil pump went out , but anyway I pushed it on the trailer and went home and pulled the engine and replaced it with another one , now I didn't do anything to the engine and I still have it , but later this almost happened again and I managed to turn the blades off before the engine died and when I looked the deck had dropped all the way down to the lowest cutting height !! Well guess what ?? The dam spring that holds pressure against the height lever to keep it locked into the detented height guages the little grooves that are made into the side body , yeah those , well the little spring was there but the long part of the spring was missing , broke , so THATS WHAT happened with the last time so my other intek engines probably ok just maybe a bent push rod ?? Now I gotta find out !! So here's your million dollar tip , check your deck height lever handle make sure the spring that holds it firmly in the selected cutting groove is ok and NOT BROKE !!!
Excellent down to earth explanations. Very easy to follow and understand, even for a novice. This gentleman is a credit to his profession as well as looking out for the best interest of his customer. I am impressed.
I appreciate your in depth analysis on a briggs and Stratton motor
I have a 19,5 HP and thought this was the problem but found the rocker arm stud had unscrewed from the head and the pushrod was dislocated from the lifter ! Put all back right again and the old Gal ran like a top again ! Thanks for the excellent video !
Thank for this video! I have a 24 HP V-Twin Intek and the valve guides have slide out and the exhaust push rod on one side was gone. I tried your trick with the magnet on a stick down the dipstick tube and got the push rod out. The push rod had been cut in half and I got both halves out through the dipstick tube. Saved me a lot of labor time and saved my customer a lot of money. Thanks again!
+Warren Copeland Lucky times 2..! glad it helped out..
Excellent Presentation. Im having this exact problem with my 2015 B&S Platinum V-Twin 22HP engine on my Craftsman Z6000 zero - turn with 425 hours on the clock. Ive checked the Ignition coils, the two Diodes in the kill wire for the Ignition coils, fuel supply, and spark plugs. I can unplug the plug wire from the dead left cylinder and it still starts up and runs nicely but has low power , and only the mower deck will bog it down in taller grass , grass that I used to drive through at high speed effortlessly. It runs quiet and cuts smooth right now if I drive it real slow. I will check my vacuum operated fuel pump to verify enough fuel supply tomorrow , before pulling the valve covers and checking the items you described in excellent detail in this video. Thank you very much for this video. And also for you not cussing or using trashy language. Your addition of the info about acquiring a new head assy will be my route if I have bent push rods. Thanks again.
Good video, its exactly what happened to my B and S 24hp, was searching how far to tap the guides back down and never dawned on me to peen the aluminum....the husqvarna mower is 15 years old, and I really have nothing to lose by trying this, great vid!
I just used your information to fix my 25 HP engine. It has bent 3 exhaust rods in the last year. Nobody, even the repair shop after a $300 tune up, fuel tank clean out, fuel line replacement (left off the clamp), and new battery. I replaced the carb after the second round when the rod bent and the back firing started again on shutdown. It started to be hard to start again and yesterday it popped on start up and was running on one cylinder. I guess I was lucky. My rods always dropped right into the valley and never moved. By the way. I found the easier way to keep the valve seated is to put a cylinder tester adapter in the spark plug hole and attach an air hose. One hundred P.S.I. will keep the valves seated to remove the spring keepers and reseat the guide and not have to put anything into the cylinder. For others FYI valve lash is .04. Thank's again for saving me $160 for the #1 cylinder head.
super! love to hear that!!!
My guess is that the backfiring is caused by the rocker hitting the valve guide as it is in the process of working it's way outward before the point of failure, short stroking the valve. Then finally it moves out too much and then the pushrod breaks. My father-in-laws would backfire before his failed as well.
Great video. Thanks. I love Briggs engines but i could not believe they didn't make these push rods big enough that they couldn't get sucked into the engine if they bent or came loose untill it happened to mine. i couldn't get it out with a magnet so i had to remove the engine and sump and there it was. same I had a bent intake push rod on the other side about 2 years ago but it didn't get sucked down into the engine.
funny how after months of searching for this exact thing it (youtube) finally decides to show me!
Great video!
You can also drill and tap the valve guide boss underneath an use a set screw to secure the guide in the head.
Have never left a comment about a video. Just wanted you to know it was great for my engine problem. Even got my push rod out through dip stick hole. Thanks!
Fyi it's still helping people. In my case (luckily) it was just the support stud for the exhaust rocker coming loose but your video showed how it was all supposed to be. Quick tighten, check clearances, and fired up fine. Thanks for the video!
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Thanks for the great video - Amazing that you described my exact problem. To add to the knowledge base. I tried the magnet on a stick approach but got nothing. However, next I used my Android endoscope to look around at the bottom of the dipstick tube - voila! I could see it off to the side. After I removed the dipstick tube I could actually see the rod and easily direct the magnet to grab and pull it out. Thanks again for saving me the trouble of tearing down the motor.
Great!!
Thanks for the explanation, just ripped mine apart and was baffled by the missing pushrod. Hopefully I get as lucky as you and can fish it out. Fingers crossed
This is my first time doing a diy. This turned out to be my problem...wish i had see this before i pulled the engine...Thank you.
I just replaced the carburetor on my 15yr 24 horsepower v-twin and I had the red round ring intake gasket but the carb kit came with the stick on intake gasket so I just used both. Seems to be working fine so far.
My man! Great video, it was extremely helpful. Especially the tip about using the magnetic pickup to to remove the missing push rod, 3 tries and it was out. Saved me a ton of time and trouble. Many thanks.
great video, this will help, once I get the right rod. Local shop sold me what I could tell was aluminum rod for the steel exhaust rod. Took it back with a magnet to show, they gave me a steel one, but the diameter is smaller than original. Not much confidence in what I hoped wouldn't be the hardest part of the whole job...getting the part! thx
I fished my rod out of the small hole in the jug with a small extension style magnet. I bent the tip so that I could fish around. It took [what seemed forever] but I finally did find something loose in there. I had better luck after moving the crank to BDC. Thanks for your help.
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Hi RVdaydream. No I do not believe it shows how to remove the springs. At minute ~6:38 the video blanks out and comes back with the springs off.
Great video. I hammered the exhaust valve guide flush with the surface. I'm still having backfiring issues. Is this a problem? Thinking it's only a problem if the guide it out too much preventing the spring to compress all the way.
All the V- Twins seem to bend pushrods. I've read Kohler, Kawasaki, Briggs etc. All have a common problem.
I wished you could've shown us how you compressed the spring to get the collets out. Is there a special tool you need for when the heads are on ??
hi great video,took my valve case off to find my valve rocker was not on valve ,valve sat still in place and not bent.put top dead center and put back rocker onto valve.spun engine by hand and all seems ok checked other push rod and was ok,have not tried to start engine yet.what could have caused this thanks wayne.
Just wanted to give you a small update to my situation. I ordered a gasket set, a new head, an oil seal and new push rods. Got everything installed. The steel exhaust pushrod was in the sump and was shaped like a "U". I'm guessing it got twisted while in the sump but I have no way of knowing for sure. It didn't look like anything else got damaged.
Thanks for posting the video that pointed to the source of my problems!
Now if I can just get the governor adjusted properly!
Thanks for the update.. Hopefully the pushrod didn't damage the governor.. I have seen that before. Good luck
In addition to peening the valve guide, I use a little high temp Loctite on it as well. Have not had an issue yet!
I thought about the hi-temp Loctite too.
FB9 have you ever broke a torx off into Those rocker adjustment nut how would you remove that??? Great video on the push rod. Hammer method works great for me.
This is the exact problem I have. Hoping I get lucky on the missing Push rod. The Head was $129.02 with free shipping on you Link today. Thank you for the video.
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TO KEEP VALVES FROM SLIDING BACK, you can use the hose from compression tester (the kind with a quick connector hose), screw it into the spark plug hole, then put about 40 pounds air into cylinder. Do this with piston TDC on compression stroke. A socket on flywheel nut, along with a handle to turn against anything to keep engine from turning holds it in place.
Higher air pressure fine (remember, the engine normally has much higher) but 35 to 40 pounds pressure usually more than adequate to push against valves and hold them in place.
You mentioned that the aluminum pushrod is for the intake (@2:45) From diagrams I've seen online the aluminum pushrod rod is for the exhaust. Any ideas which is correct?
Dude I almost just replaced the pushrods without checking the guides ! You saved me a headache , I should have known better but .. how do you adjust valve lash ?
Thanks so much for the instruction. Exactly what happened to the Husqvarna 2452 I picked up recently (cheap!).. grass blocked the right jug, exhaust valve guide came out and botta bing bent push rod..drove and peened the valve guide, replaced head gasket, push rods, set all valve lash, and it now purrs..what I don't understand is why the INTAKE push rod was also bent, although not as badly as the exhaust, even tho the intake guide did not come out..??
It could have came out and pushed itself back in.. Probably should peen that valve guide too..
Just inherited a free mower with a 20HP Intek running on one cylinder. The cylinder with the rats nest and cram packed full of grass has an exhaust valve guide that seems to have sunken into the head and both pushrods are bent. I'm glad I watched this because I was getting ready to replace both heads with the assumption that the other one might lose a guide at any moment, but now I know the probable cause of the failure so I think I'll assume the side that wasn't overheating is going to last a while longer. Thanks!
Great news.. Glad it worked out.. I would assume you will have no issues down the road especially since you know what to look for now.. Good luck
What do you think about using a die grinder with a small cutoff wheel and cutting a small groove around the outside of the guide so it will sit just below the surface after you push the guide back in place? Think the peening would fill that groove and hold it better if you did that?
Excellent video. Just wanted to add something if I may. If you can't get that broken push rod out through the dipstick tube, tip that tractor on its side after draining the oil, and try again. If you have to pull the engine still, turn it on its side on the bench before splitting the engine and thats how I got mine out. Thanks again.
As as you don't have a hydrostat transmission that has a remote reservoir..even then make sure the trans has breather vent blocked off before laying entire tractor on side..
Same problem. I left the pushrod in the crankcase two seasons ago. Drove the guide back in with lock tight. Lasted 3 more 1 acre cuts this year then bent another rod. Used the peening method. Noticed the valve stem was now hard to move in the guide. Ran for about 20 minutes of mowing when that cylinder let go. Opened it up again and found the rocker arm bolt had pulled out of the aluminum. I don't have a helicoil set, so, Time for the new head.
+Richard Tortora You tried your best.. At some point you just have to throw your hands in the air and let them land on the mouse to order new.. :-)
+Foxboss9 Received new head in 2 days. Installed and cut grass.
Richard Tortora !!! AWESOME WORK !!!
Thanks so much for the info. Thats what happened to mine, lost 1 push rod and bent another. Thanks for getting to the point !
Nice video. Thx. Rebuilding my Intek right now. Exact same issue. Was fortunate enough to find a pair of nice used heads with good seats on eBay at a very reasonable price. Fingers crossed. No way I'm spending $180-$200 for a new single head.
Perfect!!! I checked the valves for bind, and noticed the exhaust on both cylinders had limited travel (because it was bottoming out on the valve guide). Thanks!!!
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I have a lawn tractor that keeps bending the exhaust push rods 1-3 times a summer season, sometimes within a week other months apart. both heads will bend them. This explains alot as we have checked for debris causing overheating and oil changes are done often now.
Yep, the only thing that will bend those rods is when there is resistance against them. And 99.9% of the time it is when the valve guides grab the pushrods.
I know this vid is a 100 years old but you never showed how the new head will fix this problem .... What did B+S change on the new head to fix this defect?? Or will the 300$ replacement still have the same problem?? Thanks.
What do you think of mixing some 2 cycle oil in with the gas to lube the valves? Anybody?
those punch holes? wont that effect the flow of oil?
My 24hp B&S is losing power after about 30 minutes of mowing and starts to run rough immediately. Is this going to only 1 cylinder or both sticking? Do you need to drain the oil to pull the covers off? I just changed the oil.
Very informative, exactly the problem I had except it's happened 2 times back to back from the service dept?
I really like the Briggs and Stratton Intek engines. I find them to be a great design.
I agree. The Briggs Vanguard engines take the Intek design to the next step.
I didn't notice how you removed the valve springs. Do I need a special tool for that? I have a valve spring compressor for the flat head engine. I'm working on a B&S 10 hp single OHV engine from a Gen Power 305 generator. Thanks.
I had this EXACT issue w my John Deere Ztrac 757 today! Was mowing and suddenly noticed that the mower had a difficult time keeping the blades/pto going and moving at the same time.
So checked spark, fine.
Checked pulling each plug wire at a time, sure enough it was only running on one cylinder.
Pulled the valve cover and both push rods bent! Looks like guides are out just as was shown here, going to try to peening method and order two new push rods.
^both of my original push rods are steel!!
Also I found a small very thin spring int the valve cover??? Not sure where that came from!
Pulled the other valve cover and looks like the guides where starting to back themselves out as well!!!
So I’m going to give this method a try, change the oil, filter, new plugs (General tune up!). Install new push rods after seating snd peening the guides and send it!!
Mower is a 2008 but only has 228 hours on it so I’m shocked this happened honestly! I use this mower for homeowner use, not commercially even though it’s more on the commercial style mower.
Any thoughts on the small very thin spring?
And I’m a bit concerned that BOTH pushrods bent on the left head (V-Twin) which again concerns me! How would both bend at the same time?
Interference from one of the other ones failing
Does the 21 HP motor have lifters in it and can they be recovered if lost in the sump pan ? With a magnet ?
Hey,
I have this exact problem with my mower. Ive never messed with valves before. I have two questions.
1. How do you know what the correct position of the valve guide is?
2. Would there ba an issue with just tack welding the side of the guide so you never have to worry about it?
Well, 1" look at the other guides that haven't pushed out to compare, take a look at the video closeup of my repaired head to get an idea...It just needs to be close.. As far as welding it would be extremely difficult welding cast aluminum to brass without distorting/destroying guide or head boss...
Have Briggs and Stratton 16hp ohv has compression 145psi both cylinders has spark check plug to ground has fuel but won’t even pop with starting fluid got me stumped?
My neighbour come to me to check his mower for no power. I found a missing push rod. I made the mistake of striping down the mower to get the push rod out. After it was apart I found I could of just pulled it out of the drain plug. I should of watched your video first. Thank you great video.
How did you push in the guide to allow room to take out the keepers ? I'm having the same problem .
Great info on the valve guides ...so, how do I go about reinstalling and gapping new push-rods after I mixed-up everything? The rocker arms on my twin OHV have the adjustment screw on the push-rod end of the rocker-arm with no way to use a feeler gauge. GOT A VIDEO ON THIS?
Sorry no video myself, BUT, there are video on youtube that shows how,..
What do you think about if a guy has to buy a new head, maybe just use aluminum brazing rod around the valve guide hole and then re-milling it? I've repaired aluminum that way before but I guess a guy would have to know the specs and tolerances and have machining skills or take it to a machine shop if it was even worth it. Just a thought. Nice and informative video , thanks.
Steve Jones it works that way too.. But these engines aren't high compression high RPM Automotive Style quality things. So something as simple as just peening like a show in the video is usually plenty strong enough to hold the guide for moving again. As long as the engine doesn't get overheated or run low on oil or anything like that. Thanks for watching! Thanks for the comment! Great idea! :-)
Exactly my problem! MICE! They built a nest in there etc. the valve stuck closed. One rod is bent, and the other one is "missing!" Thank You!
9:48
Rather than peening on that hump, I think I have seen someone drill and tap a hole perpendicular to the valve guide through the side of that hump and then install a set screw to hold the guide in place.
I am not sure how they did that. Perhaps you also have to drill through the side of the head as well and reach the hump by going through that hole in the side of the head -- and then plug that hole as well.
Very informative. Thanks for the help. I was able to get my father in law mowing again. Funny, on his mower the intake push rod was slightly loose but otherwise fine. The exhaust was thankfully still sitting up in the head but very bent. No problems at all with the right head. Out of curiosity, could this possible be caused by not keeping the valves adjusted properly?
The loose push rod could be from Mis adjustment however, the bent pushrod almost always is caused by the valve guide grabbing it
Foxboss9 yep it was the guides. I put new rods in and rolled it over by hand. The exhaust rod bent on the first rotation. Time for new heads. Thanks! You have been very helpful!
I have a question if you could help me out. I'm working on a guys craftsman lawnmower. It has a 24hp briggs V-twin and he wanted me to get it running. It turned over fine sounded good while turning over and everything. I checked for fuel, spark, air, compression. All was good I thought. It was firing but wouldn't start. Not even when I sprayed it with carb cleaner or ether. So I pulled the carb and cleaned it just to be safe and still nothing. I pulled both valve covers off and both intake pushrods are bent. Both of them. I was thinking maybe someone didnt set the valves correctly but it looks like this was the first time the valve covers have ever been taken off. Why did both pushrods bend. I haven't messed with it anymore but plan to tomorrow. Just wanting to know why both intake aluminum pushrods bent. Very strange
Just got one of these, previous owner had it worked on by a shop.. intake pushrod broke and the exhaust bent... I think they used aluminum for both. What size carbuerator does this use? I've seen that they use a 2 barrel and for fun I would like to make it dual carb. Also, do you know if they make performance parts for this engine?
Great video thanks…left head on just peened outside of valve guide….I will do my first inspect after 20 hrs hopefully last that long
I had the issue of back firing and low power on mine. 570 hours on the engine a 441777 22 horse. Did the rebuild on the carb, and it ran better but still not well for a week. Then back to the rough running back firing and missing. Taking a play from my old and long gone grand dad. I chucked up a drill on each of the valves and pulled firmly back against the valve seats and spun the hell out of them.
Voila', problem fixed. Afterwards I sprayed a little water into the intake with it revved up to about 2500 and all the crystallized carbon ( the problem) created by a over heating event is gone out the muffler in a big black cloud. 30 hours later its still running fine.
Best video I've seen on this, awesome job!!!
Excellent video by a conscientious, honest professional!
Thank you for the tip of of sending a magnet down the dip tube. First try, heard the click and pulled out the broken push rod. Great video.
Lol. Me too. First try and I got it!! Great tip!
The issue I came across with mine was a valve seat inside the head came loose and wedged the valve so it couldn't move. I tapped it back in. Now waiting on gaskets and a push rod
I have 19.5Hp Briggs ohv twin cylinder the aluminum push rods are on the bottom side on both cylinders of the head noticed your video showed them being on top what's going on? don't think value covers never been off.
They should be used on the intake valve
what would be the valve guide height....??? 1/2" maybe...or less than that? Im hoping that my case is the "1 in a 100" , exactly what happened to mine, intake rod bent, and exhaust rod VANISHED! lol
You'll have to look up your valve spec it's in the if I recall most of them are right around the twelve thousandth range
Great video. Both push rods "disappeared" on My 23hp Intek. Based on you vid I probably need to remove the engine, find the rods somewhere in the the oil sump, and repair valve guides or replace head. Does that sound right? Would there be any other reason the push rods would "disappear" ?
Unless the camshaft broke... But you will need to most likely remove the engine due to the aluminum intake pushrod not being magnetic.. at that point you can inspect for other damage..
Great Video I have a similar problem I recently bought one of the engines used and its #2 valve assy (minus both push rods) was apart but the valves,guides and springs were in place and I purchased new push rods,put it together, adjusted the valves, and started it up, ran alright for a few hours then started popping and missing with a loss of power. Now I have removed the #2 valve cover to find not only the exhaust rod bent but also the intake. Thanks to your video I found that my exhaust guide is out to far so I put it in as you showed but the intake only has a rubber oil seal so what could I do to keep my new one from bending again? Note the guy that I bought the motor from also said the rods were bent so I am going to try to get in touch with him to see if both valves were retrieved.
Kelly Vance the valve guides are both made from similar materials. The rubber seal that you are referring to is a umbrella seal used to aid in keeping oil from coming up the valve and also as protection from oil passing by the guide and into the cylinder..So,you will needs to remove that seal and push that guide in and peen it also.. The fact it was bought in a broken condition would lead me to believe he didn't retreive the old pushrods but it's going to take pulling the engine apart to know for sure unless the PO can guarantee he got them out.. Glad the video helped😊 good luck 👍
Thank you for the information. I'm biting the bullet and purchasing a new head for the cylinder that had the valve guide wander out. Next step is sealing up my shed and putting the mice to "sleep"
The heads are Right and Left, mirror opposites. Which side is considered to be #1?
All the videos I've watched and everything I've researched the aluminum push rod goes on the exhaust side. This doesn't make sense to me because the exhaust side gets hotter than the intake side. Can someone please tell me who's right lol.
Aluminum will transfer heat faster
Glad I discovered your channel. from Australia
Nice job explaining and demonstration technique. One of the best on utube!
my mower started, went to cut grass engaged the blade started cutting, the motor lugged down and stopped. I took the belt turned the motor, locked,then went forward and locked again what caused this
If the engine seized and you can only turn it slightly in one direction and then back again..sounds like connecting rods..
I have 3 single cylinder john deeres and all three motors have the intake valves on the bottom and have the aluminum rod is on the bottom.
Seen the twistie pretzel around the cam many times. Mostly on the 06 ones.
Exact same thing happened to me. I was able to fish the pushrod out of the dipstick hole as mentioned. Mud dauber nest was the culprit. Engine has 725 hours. Thanks
+marvinmadman Unlucky on the Mud Daubers BUT, lucky on the push rod retrieval ..good for you!!😁
marvinmadman qsssssssssssssssssqwwwwwwdwwzqqq to. We cool
Great video. discovered the valve guide extended outward. Couple questions, how did you get the valve springs off in your video without a valve spring compressor? How would you get them back on? and you commented the new head assembly from Briggs at around $90. The link to amazon shows the head I want, with the components you show within the box, but now at $190. Your thoughts? Tom DeMarco
I found a bent push rod but my question is I have no compression and the mower won't start. Could the bent push rod cause my mower not to start at all?
Absolutely. If the intake rod is the one that is bent then your intake valve will not open to allow air and fuel to enter into the combustion chamber. If the exhaust Rod is bent then your exhaust valve will not open to allow the burnt gases to exit so as to let new fresh air and fuel in the combustion chamber. Even if both push rods were absolutely straight and your valves were slightly Miss adjusted it would cause it not to run. So definitely your bent pushrod is causing it not to run
does this happen on the vanguard engines as well? have you ever had slightly bent pushrods where a compression test will still read good, but the intake valve is not opening all the way, causing a restriction on the intake stroke? I think my problem is a bad coil though, but that engine was run out of oil, I have already had the valve cover off and everything seems to fit nicely, there's no excessive play on the rockers. Compression was 120psi and the good cylinder was 110psi. I tested each cylinder for misses by disconnecting 1 ignition wire, then swapping to the other, the 120 psi cylinder ran very poorly with a lot of misses. Spark voltage was good, jumped at least 1/2", so bad capacitor in the coil? Spark doesn't get hot enough because there is no amperage behind the spark? That cylinder was also much more sensitive to changes in mixture, slight choking would kill it, but good cylinder would take 3/4 choke to kill. Also has a lot of oil coming out the breather and it builds up on the throttle plate and in the carb at idle , then dumps into the engine when opening the throttle and it puffs some oil smoke for a few seconds. Would this be due to a plugged up oil drain port in the head? Would I still get 120 and 110psi compression if there was abnormal blowby?
99% of the time the coil either works or doesn't work there's no medium failure. Not saying that it couldn't happen especially if you have a SAM unit (spark advance module) , which some of the manufacturers did. If you do have a spark advance module it's best just to buy a new coil that will replace the current coil and you no longer have to run that module. It's a box that could be half the size of a pack of cigarettes. Make sure you have your air gap set correctly for your coil as that is important and also make sure your flywheel key is not partially sheared causing a timing issue. Bent pushrods are easy to diagnose as you can pull them out of the engine and roll them on a flat surface to see if there's any Bend to them. You may have an issue with the valves needing adjusted because of valve seat wear. Before you overthink it though, make sure that all the basics have been checked because tearing into an engine that there's nothing wrong is a pain in the butt because you didn't cover the basics first and something as simple as a bad spark plug could cause fits. And remember the other general rule just because a part is new doesn't mean that it's good part. Good luck.
Let me start by saying thanx for the help youve already given me. So my Husqvarna had a valve guide pop out and bent the aluminum push rod and sent the steel one into the engine. I too got lucky and was able to get it out through the dipstick hole. It was bent and had some battle scars on it. The mower was still running after it happened just sounded like a helicopter. No metal sounds or smoke just poppin in the intake. I was gonna peen the guide, replace the rods, regap the valves, new head gasket and see what happens. What ya think? Any pointers or suggestions? Think the motor is fine? Any help appreciated. Thanx in advance. Nate
N8Dogg1002 Sounds pretty typical.. It's worth a shot to repair by peening. Make sure the guide is the correct depth before "peening" it back in.. Other than that pretty much straight forward.. Good luck..
Hello, in my case I was given an 26hp twin mower that has been sitting for approx. three years. I replaced plugs, filters, oil. When it started it popped and backfired, then the popping stopped. It had week power and I found little compression on one cyl. Took off valve cover and found the intake push rod out of the rocker arm The push rod is not bent. Perfectly straight. What do you think happened in my case? Thanks in advance.
Make sure the valve guides are not pushed out and reinstall everything... Then rotate engine by hand and watch to make sure all movement looks good... There is probably something that caused the issue but you'll need to reinstall everything to find out what is going on...
I do have a question about the factory replacement head. Has B & S acknowledged the problem and made revisions to the replacement head that will prevent valve guide from moving out of position.
Something else came to mind. I "peened" my valve guide before I saw this video. I noticed that in at least some cases you remove the head and "peen" from the inside. Have you seen instances where the valve guide moves to the combustion chamber side? If this is common, I might rethink and pull the head and "peen" from the inside. Thank you.
BIG DADDY no Briggs really hasn't addressed it because the problem is not really a manufacturing problem what it is, the engine has overheated or it has been run low on oil to cause the guide to swell and grab the valve stem as the valve is being moved. I've never had one go in towards the combustion chamber because the camshaft and the geometry through the rocker arm is such that it does not exert enough Force to push it inward. Not near as much as the combustion, explosion process that will definitely move the guide even though it's hanging onto the valve. The reason I pin the inside is to give two points of contact all the way around the guide on each end of the guide so that it has a hard time moving outward because it's being held even on the inside too.
Foxboss9 Thank you very much for your prompt reply.
Can I install the valve springs without pulling the head and on the mower?
Melissa Eubanks yes. The video shows how to make sure the valves don't fall in the cylinder when you take the springs off
Thanks for the peeing explanation! I’ve got the head off my 24 hp V-twin and will do this after I get everything cleaned up. Do you happen to remember the head bolt torque specs?
Manual says 220 in-lbs (18.3 ft-lbs)
Grant Deisig Thank you very much!
Great video man, you tell it so most people can understand what they are looking at, keep it up! RD.
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video is a little long, but after watching it all im glad. lots of good info. thanks for making it. keep up the good work. its all about saving a buck. and you clearly help with that.
+thomas brian Thanks! will do
Please suggest where else to find a 796232 for under $300. Great video.
Keep an eye on the price it goes up and down
I'm worried 😩 while I was gone for a couple months on a job my daughters did the mowing on our couple acres and forgot to put oil in it and my wife said the INTEK 24 HP twin V OHV engine just made a loud noise and " locked up " and died immediately. When she went to turn the key to start it again it did absolutely NOTHING!!!! Not even a sound ... a new replacement motor is in the $800 + range. Well I'm watching you to see if I can fix this myself. I am a back yard mechanic and can figure things out myself but I have no idea if it's fixable or what is wrong and what to look for . What do you think it is that happened? This has been an incredible mower and I don't really have that kind of money to replace a engine like that at this time. Please if you can help I'd appreciate it very much 😊 thank you.
Love4raine firstly inspect the sides of the engine block for large cracks or holes(I suspect there isn't any or you would have an oil leak unless the crack is still sealed). If all looks good drain the remaining oil out of block and put fresh oil up to correct level... third- make sure key is off and reach under frame and grab the engine drive pulley (gloves on and position yourself accordingly to get a good grip) try to rotate the engine by hand (really hard at first) If needed use pipe wrench on pulley shaft(exposed between drive sheets and deck sheeve) if engine breaks loose try to rotate it 360 degrees. do that about 4 or 5 revolutions... Now, Start engine, with battery jump start possibly) and run engine at full throttle for 20 minutes straight... If you can't get the engine to turn by hand or if the engine will only rotate so far in each direction but clunks and comes to a dead half THEN you need a new engine... If you get the engine to run, but it has low power, is leaking oil profusely or smokes out the exhaust constantly, you'll need a new engine..... I don't recommend that this as a fix ....however, I have had moderate success doing this in the past.. good luck..
Love4raine You seized it I would take out the spark plug but some ATF in it and let it sit till u can turn it
GAH! Had terrible power going uphill. Checked behind the left valve cover. Both push rods fell out in my hand. They were both still straight so I just put them back in place. Checked behind the right valve cover and the aluminum push rod is bent. The steel push rod is nowhere to be seen. Now the joy of figuring out how to remove the flywheel! First, however, I will try to pull the rod out through the dipstick tube.
Good luck!!
Bought a telescoping magnet just like yours and stuck it down the dipstick tube...nothing. 1) Is there any access to the sump via the oil filter port? (There is NOT via the oil drain port.) 2) How much access to the sump is available via the dipstick tube? In other words, am I going to have to take the engine off of the mower to access the sump in order to find the old push rod?? Bought a new push mower yesterday to get my lawn mowed but an acre is a royal pain!
If you didn't get lucky like I did you'll have to do like the video mentions, pull the engine.. That is why I was so pumped about snagging the push rod right away.. You can try tipping the mower on it's right side and turn the engine by hand to see if you can get it to slide over to the dipstick but thats really it. If it don't get picked out the dipstick you need to pull the engine..Try to see where it is looking though the opening when you take the head off(if you take the head off).. Good Luck
I have had a lot of Briggs ohv engine that run ok but have a slight knock don't sound like it's a rod Iran one for over a year it never got any worse. Is this common with Briggs ohv engines.
Most the time if the knock is light and the engine runs strong I recommend that oil changes get done regularly and that possibly a lucas oil additive be used.. Most times that knock can be generated from the counter balance system used in some of the Briggs engine and just make noise and don't cause much issue..
I just happen to stumble on this video and I am very happy about that it explains a huge mystery. Today, 6/30. I had a Tech come to look at an issue I've been having with my mower. After it warms up, with the blades engaged. I lose power. It is a Craftsman and has a InTek v- twin engine 25HP. I have had it for 13 year and this is the first time I have had a major problem.
The Tech tested a few things and found that the left side is not operating and thus I am running on one cylinder. He took the valve cover off and part of the aluminum push rod fell to the ground. We could not find the steel push rod and the other half of the aluminum one. After looking at this video it verifies that the steel and rest of the aluminum rod went down to the engine sump. I've been having this issue for several weeks so I am very fortunate that the steel rod and the other half of the aluminum rod did not cause any major damage. The Tech said that it is probably is in the sump. He had a steel rod but not an aluminum one. He had to order it. When he comes back, and am going to tell him about this video and suggest we try to "fish" out the steel rod. Since we found only 1/2 of the aluminum rod, i am concerned that a magnetic retrieval tool will not get it out.
I'm going to try using a magnet to get the steel push rod out. As for the rest of the aluminum push rod that was broken, It has to be in the oil sump pan. Not sue how to get that out.