Like the Alaskan lady named Sue that runs the airport gas station. She can do anything a man can and good for her. Actually, she a better mechanic than most men I know.
I feel like I'm in Ford apprentice mechanic training! Detailed whiteboard explanation with practical video instructions. Can't believe she taught all of these for free. Thank you so much
The brake system you are looking at on the vehicle is a split diagonal system. One port on the mast cylinder is connected to the right rear line and also connected to the left front line. The other port is connected to the left rear and also connected to the right front line. This design will keep the vehicle stopping straight in case you loose fluid pressure in one of the lines. This is in most vehicles today especially front wheel drive vehicles. You bleed the right rear then the left front. Or the left rear then right front. The system sue draws in the beginning is the front brake lines are using one port of the master cylinder and the rear is using the other. If one side looses pressure there is a proportion valve that will block off fluid to that system. Now you will have either front or rear brakes only. So let’s say you lose pressure to the front brakes and only have rear. The vehicle is not going to stop well and if it is bad weather even worse most likely spinning like a top. The split diagonal system if you loose pressure on one system you still have a front and rear brake to stop the vehicle straight.
Best video I've watched. I've watched three brake fluid bleeding videos tonight and by the time I got to this video I was stressed out of my mind. Now that I've watched this video, I feel so calm and confident. Thanks so much for the teaching, Sue
This is by far the longest and best video I’ve seen explaining how to properly bleed the brakes! Thank you so much, kudos to almost having 1 million views, and showing how it’s really done!!
Some cars (toyota) have ABS pump on the passenger side. So for the driver front it actually takes a longer journey for the fluid than the passenger front. So for that I start from driver rear wheel. Also when doing one-person bleeding, I apply a thick grease on the bleeder thread to prevent air from being sucked in via the threads.
1A Auto channel is awesome. I learned how to change my brake pads and rotors on my Honda Pilot and Subaru legacy by watching their videos. They saved me hundreds of dollars. I called Honda dealer and they priced me 1299 + tax. It cost me 300.00 total to do it myself. Thank you 1A Auto.
Sue! You're a natural and talented teacher. Thanks for saving me time and money after I watched your Nissan Murano front brake video. I'm an old mathematics teacher who enjoys lightweight automotive maintenance. The brake-bleed kit makes this job look reasonable without a helper.
It doesn't matter how many brake videos I watch. I learn something else. Your videos are certainly no exception. Thank you, Sue, for this very informative one,Lester
Always your videos really help. I'm UK-based. Our systems ever since I was a child, I learnt from family and then an apprenticeship. In the UK we have always had dual brake lines running from ft to back. Because of us driving on the other side to Europe, the position of the master cyc varies. The master cyc has always been a screw-fit cap not a push-on fit, even when I worked on really old cars, they were a screw-fit cap not a push-fit. When I lived in CA, I had a Toyota and a Honda, both were screw-fit caps. I have no knowledge of other cars in the USA. Mostly for us, its 2 pipes running to the back side by side, they split and cross when they are close to the rear of the car. Bleeding very much as you said, especially on complex cars with multiple bleed nipples. knowing Europe has the double pipe may be useful to some. You talking about the hydrocarbon breakdown is what we learn at college, probably something your home mechanic has not thought about before. Excellent that you introduce those thoughts to home mechanics. On Vauxhalls, they needed a pressure bleed tool. At that time, most could be bleed with a peddle pump. Please if you are working on breaks buy a pressure bleed tool. They can be very cheap from any motor part shop, the cheap ones use pressure from a tyre. They will really help you and the low-end ones work excellently and are only a few pounds, I think the last one I bought was around £10, it has caps to fit most master cylinders. Something which very few car owners think off is they should flush their brake and if they have a hyd clutch fluid every few years, not only because of heat break down, almost the oil absorbs moisture from the air. Water in the oil is not good. I can explain but oil break down is going a lot off topic. Its what we learn at college when we do a real apprenticeship :) Hope my comments help.
I watched the thing in its entirety even though I already know how to bleed the brakes because Sue is amazing! Love the videos by 1A Auto, they're both informative and entertaining.
Nice work! 👍 Only thing I might add and I'm not sure if I've ever experienced this before but I've seen comments where a few people say that air can get past the bleeder screw threads and cause bubbles in the bleeder line leading you to believe that it's air in the brake line when it's actually air getting through the bleeder screw threads and they say to put some grease around the bleeder screw so no air can get through the threads. IDK, just throwing it out there. Another thing I've noticed with the clear bleeder line that goes over the bleeder screw is that when the line is cold and hard or when it's old and hard that it might not make a good seal on the bleeder and air can get past that seal and into the line leading you to again think that it's air in the brake line. I think they need to come up with a better line or flexible fitting that won't harden like regular clear bleeder line like maybe silicone line or Tygon fuel line or something that stays maliable better in colder Temps or when it ages. Regular PVC hose or line seems to harden and not make a good seal in cold temps or after it gets some age on it.
Glad you mentioned the Corvette brakes being different from the norm on the order that you bleed each wheel as well as which side of the caliper to do first. I had heard that and now you confirmed it. Getting ready to replace pads because of excessive brake dust and bleed system on a 2017 Corvette with 20k miles. The brake fluid is black...........long overdue for a brake system flush.
I bought a vacuum bleeder kit that hooks up to my air compressor. I then can sit there and watch to fluid come out until it is clear and no air bubbles. Everything in this video is correct and Sue explains this very well. I learned more about other brake systems as well. Also, some years ago I bought some parts from 1A Auto for a 2001 VW I had at the time, a windshield wiper motor et al, and it was high quality and fit perfectly. Thank you 1A Auto for your attention to detail and quality.
Wow I have never said this on any video I’ve ever watched on TH-cam. And it’s not because the videos were bad but, I have to say this lady knows her stuff. I’ve watched many on bleeding the brakes and she’s the first one I’ve watched that I can say without a doubt that I can easily bleed my brakes without referring back to the video. Great job! And now you’re my go to person/lady from now on when I need to learn something on my vehicle. Thank you so much for a through video. Namaste 🙏
Thanks Sue. You have been giving me the confidence to work on my 2005 EX Honda Element. I live in the rust belt of WI, so i can relate to your videos 100%. I have to replace my drivers side CV axle because the inner boot is ripped and leaking. I now have the confidence after watching your videos.
Great video. I came across an instructional video that states your order of bleeding depends more on the distance from the ABS motor to the wheel ( if equipped with ABS) than the distance from the master cylinder. Also, Peak brake fluid is rated for both Dot 3 and Dot 4. Kind Regards, Craig
Thank you SO MUCH for this!! I've always paid to have it done because i was intimidated to do it on my own or mess things up. But your patient explanation gave me the courage to get the kit and do this own my own the next time I need to work on my brakes. Thank you!!
My kit consists of: 1 Coke Bottle hung with a coat-hanger, 1 clear hose from Home Depot, 1 baby bugger suction pump or a turkey-baister, a small funnel and a couple of different size gear wrenches... and O... make sure Not to get brake fluid on the vehicle paint! Good Upload! Note: in some cases you might want the engine on while you do this, and keep safety in mind first! When done, press the brake pedal several times till it feels hard before moving the vehicle!.
As a German I must say that this is the best and most detailed explanation on how to bleed a break system without any missing information . Dankeschön 🙏
I wish I had seen this before I spent 35 bucks on brake bleeding kit. I like how she was explaining everything, I learned a few things here. I will subscribe to this channel and give them a thumbs up.
This is the 1st video that I've seen Mrs. Sue teach. Absolutely an amazing job. I'm glad I watched it. I learned a lot. I'm fairly confident I will be able to do a proper brake job from now on. But, we will see........
Flushing breaks is almost a no brainer(once see this) why not more often after all break fluid is so costly at under $8-$12 qt. easy and not overly hard. Thx sue-
I always check to see where the anti brake lock module is located to see what the sequence for bleeding the brakes or flushing the system will be. Sample the camaro has the master cylinder on the left side in front of the driver, but the anti lock brake module is on the passenger side. Looking at the lines the furtherest caliper is the right rear, left rear, right front left front. That would be the sequence. Personally I always flush the system whenever I'm replacing any brake set. A 32 ounce brake fluid bottle with a hose to the bottom and zip tight to keep it place is what I used to bleed or flush the brake system by myself. DOT 4 brake fluid is the way to go when DOT 3 or DOT 4 is called for. Love your videos.
@@Funwithhighnotes I wondered myself why she didn't bring up the abs, I've heard if you get air into the abs system you have to get a garage with the right scan tool to get the air out....
I was only looking for a refresher on the tire order of a system bleed, which came out right away, but you were so interesting I stayed for the whole thing! Nice job, thanks!
It appears that Honda takes a difference stance on the traditional bleeding process. They recommend bleeding the LF first, then RF, RR, then LR. Thank you for the videos. Your an awesome teacher!
I think that's because they're starting from the ABS module on the Passenger side, instead of the Master Cylinder on the Driver's side. Which is where any, and all, cars with ABS brakes are supposed to start from. According to the internet.
Excellent young lady!!! Doing brakes on a 2019 jeep rubicon. Dealer says rotor, caliber and line. I found stuck caliper. $1600 from dealer, $400 to replace calipers, and ceramic shoes. Just bought vacuum to bleed brakes. Just refreshing my memory to do repair.
Excellent how-to video, Sue. I use a similar method (bottle and tube). The first time I bled my brakes, the brake pedal felt the best. Maybe one or two retries lol. That was after a complete four-wheel rotor-pad and one caliper replacement. I always tune in. I'm a longtime subscriber. This channel is a money saver. P.S. Yes, we are still watching these videos
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
Hi Sue, Your video is terrific. The tips you provide make complete sense and explanation for bleeding all four wheels even if only doing fronts makes it a no brainer to do. I've done brakes for years without issues but always with a peddle-pusher to assist. Your education for use of the single person kit has given me the confidence to go get one and try it on my own. I like your delivery. Thank you.
Great video. But, how did the initial air in the hose magically disappear?. How did you fill the hose with fluid so the air in the hose was not sucked back into the caliper on the first press? Also, how do you prevent air from being suck in through the bleeder threads when out so much?
Thanks for the thorough video. I bleed my brakes, they work fine but a little soft so I'm going to go back in and utilize the techniques you suggested the three pump in particular 👍
Good video. What I'd add: Always clean the outside of the reservoir and lid before opening. Use a flare nut wrench. Fill the reservoir from a pitcher with a nozzle or a funnel to get it where you need it and reduce the chances to spill any in the engine bay to next to nothing. Add a warning to immediately wash any spill off with water to not ruin parts and lacquer. The end should be bringing the old fluid back to a place that properly dispose of it. Torque specs of the repair manual should be followed.
Modern cars come with ABS standard and often the proportion valve is diagonally split system... Some of the manufacturers service manual I have read actually tell you bleed the wheel that is closest to the ABS module first and work your way out. Anyways...As long as you don't introduce air into the brake system then you can bleed whatever order you want.
Great video. Super clear and easy to understand. Maybe consider recommending a flare nut wrench for bleeder screws. If you round one of those, you'll be sorry. Also, brake fluid boils because brake fluid tends to absorb water (the reason for periodic fluid flushes). The water will boil, causing vapor to be created which is a compressible gas. Air bubbles are compressible (unlike brake fluid) and so you get the soft pedal or need to pump up the pedal to brake. Thanks again for the video.
Awesome teacher, thank you!! Sometimes, a cell phone video half showing up someone's nose is enough to get the gist, but brake bleeding is not one of those times!
supposed to put a block of wood or something under the brake pedal so it does not travel so far, as it can damage seals in master cylinder, when you move it out of normal range.
I used to push brake pedal to floor. Tighten brake zirk/ fitting. Then after a reasonable amount of fluids flowed. I was good. Now master cylinder I don't know. Did many on old 70 chevys . 98 is pissing me off. All new lines . I blew 40 buck on a brake bleeder. 3rd now. My problem I have help.
I love this lady, I’ve been literally stranded for nearly 10 weeks. I Had to change out the booster and the master cylinder on a 2000 Bravada, a stubby 15 mm flex ratchet wrench was THE tool. It’s been a nightmare.
Thanks for this very valuable video. I'm wondering ..... how to flush the abs pump, to avoid some of the pump pistons/plungers to stick? Thank you again
That turkey baster thing must cost a lot, my uncle had one and kept it under his bed, I guess for safe keeping. I never knew he was a mechanic! Thanks !!!
Thank you for the really great video and all the detailed information. My additions would be, as some have already mentioned. 1) Use a small funnel to help direct any and all brake fluid into the reservoir without allowing anything to spill as brake fluid is corrosive. 2) I would place a nice shop towel all around the reservoir to also prevent accidental drips of brake fluid 3) The brake bleeding system you showed appears to have worked, but wasn’t a fan of insert a hard plastic piece inside the inner hole of the bleeder valve. I would prefer to use a correctly size hose that goes around the outside of the bleeder valves nipple to create a surely tight fit to prevent any air getting in when self bleeding your brakes. 4) They sell bleeding systems that also incorporate a one way inline valve that prevents any backward flow while self bleeding. You can also purchase this one way valve for your existing system. Thanks again for your video your are my favorite for sure Sue!
The shop manual for my 1956 Oldsmobile 98 says, "The correct sequence for bleeding is left front, right front, left rear, and right rear." My Olds has a single reservoir master cylinder, not the dual reservoir MCs commonly found on today's cars -- Could this somehow impact the bleeding order? It would appear that when fluid is pushed from the master to the only open bleeder (by way of depressing the brake pedal) the other three lines, under pressure, couldn't back flow any brake fluid or air to the master or to the open bleeder. If so, the bleeding order appears irrelevant. The shop manual also cautions that the vacuum reservoir associated with the power assist brakes be depleted by applying the brake pedal several times with the engine off before bleeding the system. Also, I've seen it commonly mentioned that one should use a socket to first loosen and re-tighten all of the bleeders so you'll know whether any get damaged in breaking them free. Others also suggest using petroleum jelly or grease at the base of any bleeders that leak air during bleeding operation. Lastly, in replacing brake lines, is it a potential brake fluid contamination problem to apply anti-seize grease to the threaded fittings?
Could you please explain is there any difference in bleeding a car's brake system with abs and without abs. I do believe that there is brake fluid in the lines leading to the abs pumps. By the way this was a amazing video, like always 😊
From what I understand, the idea is the same but because of the ABS system, the order in which you bleed the brakes might differ. The master cylinder could be in the same place but the difference in the lines might change that order of furthest from the cylinder to closest. I'd also like a thorough explanation.
Very nice video, this lady is good in teaching. I do my brakes the same way and never had any issues. DO NOT LISTEN TO SOME COMMENTS OR OTHER VIDEOS just follow this and you will be fine. Sue my honda CRV manual tell me to bleed the opposite so front driver first. But i always do it the way you did. The master cylinder is in the same location and it should have ABS because the light shows for ABS when i turn on the car
I watched at least 4 or 5 videos since yesterday and i'm telling you, this is by far the best one and easy to understand! just subscribed and i'm excited to learn more! thank you!!
one of the best vids ever ! Im struggling with getting em brakes bled the right way after changing my calipers. Will try doing it again tomorrow with a fresh mind following you.
Keep in mind air sometimes gets introduced from the threads of the bleeder screw itself as well To fix the problem remove the screw and apply a thin layer of chassis grease to the threads and reinsert screw to bleed without the air being introduced when bleeding resumes Also when i bleed brakes i put a small block of wood on the floor restricting full travel of the brake pedal and the reason for that is the master cylinder is not extending into uncharted territory scoring the seals and creating an additional problem due to internal master cylinder leaking
@@CartoonWeasel Correct , Limit the pedal travel. Although it may take more pumps to replace old fluid no issues of possible damage to Master Cylinder Seals
Hi, thanks for the reminder. To apply grease on the screw, do I have to remove it all the way? Or can I just loosen it, then apply grease where it will sit back? Also, while loosening it, some fluid will probably seep out and might mix with the grease I'm trying to apply. Is it OK? First timer.
Great tutorial. I would add checking and lubricating the slide pins on the brakes even if you didn’t replace parts. An ounce of prevention while the wheel is off.
Very comprehensive and thanks because I will review this video again when doing all 4's with new brakes, calipers, and flush. I love the videos in general as it teaches me a lot
THANK YOU!! I am headed out to replace my left driver brake line now. I have watched several videos, all made by men, but instructions from woman to a woman just works better. There is no "implied garage knowledge" in your video, i.e. stuff that is lightly referred to and may not be known by someone never doing this before. New subscriber! I hope you have a video about replacing brake pads! 😂
Heres a tip; Hydraulic fluid starts to absorb moisture as soon as it hits the air, so constantly close everything between refills... Old fluid: An old timer told me brake fluid is a natural rubber lubricant. Put the old fluid in a pump oil can or a spray bottle, then use it to lubricate the front end rubber control arms bushings and also the frame to body bushings.I use the Oil can because its more controllable... It will keep the rubber business soft and pliable and from cracking and make the car always feel like new. AND NEVER, never, get any fluid on anything you do not want because it will peel the paint, so use care when working with brake fluid.
In 23 minutes she is able to give sooo much information that I haven’t seen in 2 hour videos 😂. She is funny and informative at the same time. Even though I’ve been doing everything she recommended, I kept watching. She reminds me of my high school mechanic teacher. X army mechanic and he was full of information and knowledge, you better listen closely! Thanks Mr. Cunningham, best teacher I had ever, even when I got detention for wrong torque spec.😂
If you don't do something to seal the threads of the bleeder nipple, you will always see air bubbles in the clear hose getting in via the threads. I would also recommend not pushing the pedal to the floor on each stroke, you can put a block of wood under it to be a temporary stop to limit the travel. Also you would need to use much more flushing and fluid to get most all of the old fluid out, at least a couple of pints
Thank you so much for the video. Now I can bleed the brakes by myself with the kit. I usually get someone to pump the brakes while I loosen the bleeder valve.
Wow what a friendly and incredibly likeable soul and talented mechanic! My son and I will be doing this with confidence this weekend thanks to your awesome, thorough job and explanations with fantastic live demonstrations!
Really appreciate your video's, always helpful. I have watched over a dozen brake bleeding video's you are the only one that cleaned the bleeder when finished with brake clean! Thanks for your post's!
Someone mentioned using thick grease or petroleum jelly but I believe they were referring to the bleeder screw threads. I don’t use the pointy, black adapter I use another small piece of tube over the tube end coming out of the bottle and fit that over the end of the bleeder screw after loosening and lightly tightening, leaving the box end wrench on prior to the bleeding tube. Makes a secure seal. Also only opening the screw about 1/4 turn or just enough to let fluid out so as not to expose threads which would cause leaking and sucking in air.
Excellent vid, some of those bleeder kits have a check valve so I'm not sure if it's necessary to keep the bottle partially filled with fluid before starting to avoid air going back into brake lines.
I noticed the little black hose fitting. It looks a lot like the check valves I use on aquariums. You may not need to fill the catch bottle first. that is the idea. Of course, I used a HbFrt suction bleeder, and it sucked air around the clear tubing and the threads of the bleed nipple. So I bought a new bleed nipple, and had a friend pump the pedal the old fashioned way for an old toyota corolla.
Love everything about you Sue. Great teacher great video all the way around and love the enthusiasm and its kind of like Norm Abram from this old house but with cars with your new England accent. Bravo.
The reason air bubbles make brakes overheat is because air compresses and decompresses, and bubbles act like a spring in the line (while hydraulic fluid doesn't compress). What happens is when you brake, the air bubble will compress, and then when you release the pedal, the air bubble will keep holding pressure and keep the piston pushing on the pad. Not a pressure anywhere as strong as when you brake, but just enough to keep a certain friction going and heat building up. You can check if your wheels are warm after driving on a highway for a while without braking. That "may" be a sign. Mainly if one wheel is much warmer than the others.
thank you so much for this informative video. i spent a lot of money on a mityvac brake bleeder that has a vacuum pump at the bleeder valve and learned that using that method sometimes causes air to be sucked in through the bleeder valve through the threads. all I was getting was air bubbles in rubber tube. I'm going to try your method tomorrow to see if it works better that way. these brakes haven't been bled since 2005 so it definitely needs new fluid because the stuff coming out was dark green and smelled like rotten fish lol.
you've talked about air, and only briefly talked about dirt in the line. also, what about the use of different pumping numbers based on how far the line is from the master cylinder or and dealing with the abs? always a good or great video from you and the guys.
YouR THEE BEST! ....as Im a single mom .and on one income..makin it tight budgeting...i totally can d.i.y. my.brakes booster...brakes are ALL.PROPERALLY BLEED..AND I KNOW.MY SONS AND.I.WILL BE SAFE..AND SAVE 💰🤑💰...GOD BLESS YOU AND PLEASE KEEP POSTING.
Now I know your name! Sue thank you so much, I always watch your Mazda 3 videos from around 2 years ago when I work on my car. I can't tell you how helpful they are
Just got the front calipers replaced in my 68 Datsun 2000 roadster. The brakes are a bit mushy.. I could take it back to the shop, but now I'll just bleed them myself. Great video.
She so awesome. I actually removed my first engine ever after watch one of her videos do it. While it was 100% it was in the ballpark for sure. Total Goat of a mechanic that i would trust and listen to over all the others. Im surprised to see the line cracked open a full turn or turn and a half...i would think it would leak around the threads
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I always watch when Sue gives these training videos. She is one of the best teachers on the net.
Most definitely, love her
I like her accent
Like the Alaskan lady named Sue that runs the airport gas station.
She can do anything a man can and good for her. Actually, she a better mechanic than most men I know.
amen to that
Bro she's awesome 👍
As a woman who works on cars (DIY), it’s so refreshing and encouraging to learn from another woman on TH-cam!
It's so cool to see as it's not a usual sight
I feel like I'm in Ford apprentice mechanic training! Detailed whiteboard explanation with practical video instructions. Can't believe she taught all of these for free. Thank you so much
The brake system you are looking at on the vehicle is a split diagonal system. One port on the mast cylinder is connected to the right rear line and also connected to the left front line. The other port is connected to the left rear and also connected to the right front line. This design will keep the vehicle stopping straight in case you loose fluid pressure in one of the lines. This is in most vehicles today especially front wheel drive vehicles. You bleed the right rear then the left front. Or the left rear then right front. The system sue draws in the beginning is the front brake lines are using one port of the master cylinder and the rear is using the other. If one side looses pressure there is a proportion valve that will block off fluid to that system. Now you will have either front or rear brakes only. So let’s say you lose pressure to the front brakes and only have rear. The vehicle is not going to stop well and if it is bad weather even worse most likely spinning like a top. The split diagonal system if you loose pressure on one system you still have a front and rear brake to stop the vehicle straight.
Best video I've watched. I've watched three brake fluid bleeding videos tonight and by the time I got to this video I was stressed out of my mind. Now that I've watched this video, I feel so calm and confident. Thanks so much for the teaching, Sue
This is by far the longest and best video I’ve seen explaining how to properly bleed the brakes! Thank you so much, kudos to almost having 1 million views, and showing how it’s really done!!
Can we get a playlist of just Sue's content? Best mechanic and presenter you guys have by far. She's awesome.
Some cars (toyota) have ABS pump on the passenger side. So for the driver front it actually takes a longer journey for the fluid than the passenger front. So for that I start from driver rear wheel. Also when doing one-person bleeding, I apply a thick grease on the bleeder thread to prevent air from being sucked in via the threads.
yes i think she loosened the bleeder too much. Good tip to use grease
1A Auto channel is awesome. I learned how to change my brake pads and rotors on my Honda Pilot and Subaru legacy by watching their videos. They saved me hundreds of dollars. I called Honda dealer and they priced me 1299 + tax. It cost me 300.00 total to do it myself. Thank you 1A Auto.
Sue! You're a natural and talented teacher. Thanks for saving me time and money after I watched your Nissan Murano front brake video. I'm an old mathematics teacher who enjoys lightweight automotive maintenance. The brake-bleed kit makes this job look reasonable without a helper.
When Sue is talking, I'm listening 👂🏾
It doesn't matter how many brake videos I watch. I learn something else. Your videos are certainly no exception. Thank you, Sue, for this very informative one,Lester
Always your videos really help. I'm UK-based. Our systems ever since I was a child, I learnt from family and then an apprenticeship. In the UK we have always had dual brake lines running from ft to back. Because of us driving on the other side to Europe, the position of the master cyc varies.
The master cyc has always been a screw-fit cap not a push-on fit, even when I worked on really old cars, they were a screw-fit cap not a push-fit. When I lived in CA, I had a Toyota and a Honda, both were screw-fit caps. I have no knowledge of other cars in the USA.
Mostly for us, its 2 pipes running to the back side by side, they split and cross when they are close to the rear of the car.
Bleeding very much as you said, especially on complex cars with multiple bleed nipples. knowing Europe has the double pipe may be useful to some.
You talking about the hydrocarbon breakdown is what we learn at college, probably something your home mechanic has not thought about before. Excellent that you introduce those thoughts to home mechanics.
On Vauxhalls, they needed a pressure bleed tool. At that time, most could be bleed with a peddle pump. Please if you are working on breaks buy a pressure bleed tool. They can be very cheap from any motor part shop, the cheap ones use pressure from a tyre. They will really help you and the low-end ones work excellently and are only a few pounds, I think the last one I bought was around £10, it has caps to fit most master cylinders.
Something which very few car owners think off is they should flush their brake and if they have a hyd clutch fluid every few years, not only because of heat break down, almost the oil absorbs moisture from the air. Water in the oil is not good. I can explain but oil break down is going a lot off topic. Its what we learn at college when we do a real apprenticeship :)
Hope my comments help.
I watched the thing in its entirety even though I already know how to bleed the brakes because Sue is amazing! Love the videos by 1A Auto, they're both informative and entertaining.
Nice work! 👍
Only thing I might add and I'm not sure if I've ever experienced this before but I've seen comments where a few people say that air can get past the bleeder screw threads and cause bubbles in the bleeder line leading you to believe that it's air in the brake line when it's actually air getting through the bleeder screw threads and they say to put some grease around the bleeder screw so no air can get through the threads. IDK, just throwing it out there. Another thing I've noticed with the clear bleeder line that goes over the bleeder screw is that when the line is cold and hard or when it's old and hard that it might not make a good seal on the bleeder and air can get past that seal and into the line leading you to again think that it's air in the brake line. I think they need to come up with a better line or flexible fitting that won't harden like regular clear bleeder line like maybe silicone line or Tygon fuel line or something that stays maliable better in colder Temps or when it ages. Regular PVC hose or line seems to harden and not make a good seal in cold temps or after it gets some age on it.
Glad you mentioned the Corvette brakes being different from the norm on the order that you bleed each wheel as well as which side of the caliper to do first. I had heard that and now you confirmed it. Getting ready to replace pads because of excessive brake dust and bleed system on a 2017 Corvette with 20k miles. The brake fluid is black...........long overdue for a brake system flush.
Fantastic video. So much better than how I learned with my dad barking orders at me to press the brake which is about all I learned 34 years ago
I bought a vacuum bleeder kit that hooks up to my air compressor. I then can sit there and watch to fluid come out until it is clear and no air bubbles. Everything in this video is correct and Sue explains this very well. I learned more about other brake systems as well. Also, some years ago I bought some parts from 1A Auto for a 2001 VW I had at the time, a windshield wiper motor et al, and it was high quality and fit perfectly. Thank you 1A Auto for your attention to detail and quality.
Wow I have never said this on any video I’ve ever watched on TH-cam. And it’s not because the videos were bad but, I have to say this lady knows her stuff. I’ve watched many on bleeding the brakes and she’s the first one I’ve watched that I can say without a doubt that I can easily bleed my brakes without referring back to the video. Great job! And now you’re my go to person/lady from now on when I need to learn something on my vehicle. Thank you so much for a through video. Namaste 🙏
This is by far the best brake bleeding video on TH-cam!
Thanks Sue. You have been giving me the confidence to work on my 2005 EX Honda Element. I live in the rust belt of WI, so i can relate to your videos 100%. I have to replace my drivers side CV axle because the inner boot is ripped and leaking. I now have the confidence after watching your videos.
Haven’t even gotten through the ads and I’m already giving a thumbs up cuz you know it’s going to be a quality video!
Great video. I came across an instructional video that states your order of bleeding depends more on the distance from the ABS motor to the wheel ( if equipped with ABS) than the distance from the master cylinder. Also, Peak brake fluid is rated for both Dot 3 and Dot 4. Kind Regards, Craig
Who is this amazing woman?!?!?
Thank you SO MUCH for this!! I've always paid to have it done because i was intimidated to do it on my own or mess things up. But your patient explanation gave me the courage to get the kit and do this own my own the next time I need to work on my brakes. Thank you!!
+Carlos Jr Thanks for checking us out! 1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto i used 5.1 brake fluid😊
@@1AAuto Do we pump the brakes with the car off?
@@hxd9321 Yes. Do not EVER bleed brakes with the car running.
My kit consists of: 1 Coke Bottle hung with a coat-hanger, 1 clear hose from Home Depot, 1 baby bugger suction pump or a turkey-baister, a small funnel and a couple of different size gear wrenches... and O... make sure Not to get brake fluid on the vehicle paint! Good Upload! Note: in some cases you might want the engine on while you do this, and keep safety in mind first! When done, press the brake pedal several times till it feels hard before moving the vehicle!.
As a German I must say that this is the best and most detailed explanation on how to bleed a break system without any missing information . Dankeschön 🙏
I wish I had seen this before I spent 35 bucks on brake bleeding kit.
I like how she was explaining everything, I learned a few things here.
I will subscribe to this channel and give them a thumbs up.
This is the 1st video that I've seen Mrs. Sue teach. Absolutely an amazing job. I'm glad I watched it. I learned a lot. I'm fairly confident I will be able to do a proper brake job from now on. But, we will see........
Sue your simply the best ! So clear ,no crappy music ,to the point and yet very detailed .thanks again for sharing .
Funny, I was taught to renew the fluid whenever the system has had a repair and my friends thought I was crazy. GOOD JOB.
Flushing breaks is almost a no brainer(once see this) why not more often after all break fluid is so costly at under $8-$12 qt. easy and not overly hard. Thx sue-
I always check to see where the anti brake lock module is located to see what the sequence for bleeding the brakes or flushing the system will be. Sample the camaro has the master cylinder on the left side in front of the driver, but the anti lock brake module is on the passenger side. Looking at the lines the furtherest caliper is the right rear, left rear, right front left front. That would be the sequence. Personally I always flush the system whenever I'm replacing any brake set. A 32 ounce brake fluid bottle with a hose to the bottom and zip tight to keep it place is what I used to bleed or flush the brake system by myself. DOT 4 brake fluid is the way to go when DOT 3 or DOT 4 is called for. Love your videos.
Bleeding the brakes is also dependent on where the ABS module is as well.
The vehicle she was working on had abs. Surprised she didn’t talk about abs. The procedure is complex (and varies by vehicle) but necessary.
@@Funwithhighnotes I wondered myself why she didn't bring up the abs, I've heard if you get air into the abs system you have to get a garage with the right scan tool to get the air out....
I was only looking for a refresher on the tire order of a system bleed, which came out right away, but you were so interesting I stayed for the whole thing! Nice job, thanks!
It appears that Honda takes a difference stance on the traditional bleeding process. They recommend bleeding the LF first, then RF, RR, then LR. Thank you for the videos. Your an awesome teacher!
I think that's because they're starting from the ABS module on the Passenger side, instead of the Master Cylinder on the Driver's side.
Which is where any, and all, cars with ABS brakes are supposed to start from.
According to the internet.
Excellent young lady!!! Doing brakes on a 2019 jeep rubicon. Dealer says rotor, caliber and line. I found stuck caliper. $1600 from dealer, $400 to replace calipers, and ceramic shoes. Just bought vacuum to bleed brakes. Just refreshing my memory to do repair.
Absolutely love when your teaching us stuff! The amount of detail and explanation is always on point
Excellent how-to video, Sue. I use a similar method (bottle and tube). The first time I bled my brakes, the brake pedal felt the best. Maybe one or two retries lol. That was after a complete four-wheel rotor-pad and one caliper replacement. I always tune in. I'm a longtime subscriber. This channel is a money saver. P.S. Yes, we are still watching these videos
I greatly appreciate your video. Out of all the videos on here, yours was the best one. I just finished a rear brake job on my 06 HHR and it was a horrible experience. I don't ever want to go through that ever again. The worst part were the main springs. Took two days to finish. Thank you for all your help!
She's so charming and you can tell she has a ton of experience to back up her teaching. Great work, thank you!
This has to be the best video I’ve seen that was very explained in every detail, glad I found it thank you so much, looking forward to future videos.
Too much pedal travel when pumping up brakes. Have a new master cylinder on hand. She should know this. Not good
Hi Sue,
Your video is terrific. The tips you provide make complete sense and explanation for bleeding all four wheels even if only doing fronts makes it a no brainer to do. I've done brakes for years without issues but always with a peddle-pusher to assist. Your education for use of the single person kit has given me the confidence to go get one and try it on my own. I like your delivery. Thank you.
Great video. But, how did the initial air in the hose magically disappear?. How did you fill the hose with fluid so the air in the hose was not sucked back into the caliper on the first press? Also, how do you prevent air from being suck in through the bleeder threads when out so much?
Very informative as well as entertaining. Appreciated you showing/explaining the "mistake" as well.
+Stick Wall Farm Thanks for checking us out. Shop for high quality auto parts on 1AAuto.com:
1aau.to/m/Shop-1AAuto-c
@@1AAuto ¹à
Thanks for the thorough video. I bleed my brakes, they work fine but a little soft so I'm going to go back in and utilize the techniques you suggested the three pump in particular 👍
Good video. What I'd add:
Always clean the outside of the reservoir and lid before opening.
Use a flare nut wrench.
Fill the reservoir from a pitcher with a nozzle or a funnel to get it where you need it and reduce the chances to spill any in the engine bay to next to nothing. Add a warning to immediately wash any spill off with water to not ruin parts and lacquer.
The end should be bringing the old fluid back to a place that properly dispose of it.
Torque specs of the repair manual should be followed.
Modern cars come with ABS standard and often the proportion valve is diagonally split system...
Some of the manufacturers service manual I have read actually tell you bleed the wheel that is closest to the ABS module first and work your way out.
Anyways...As long as you don't introduce air into the brake system then you can bleed whatever order you want.
Thank you for taking the time to break down every detail for every tire and the purpose and importance of bleeding brake system.
Great video. Super clear and easy to understand. Maybe consider recommending a flare nut wrench for bleeder screws. If you round one of those, you'll be sorry. Also, brake fluid boils because brake fluid tends to absorb water (the reason for periodic fluid flushes). The water will boil, causing vapor to be created which is a compressible gas. Air bubbles are compressible (unlike brake fluid) and so you get the soft pedal or need to pump up the pedal to brake. Thanks again for the video.
Flair nut wrench 🔧 fits on front caliper bleeder screws but too bulky for rear, unfortunately.
Awesome teacher, thank you!! Sometimes, a cell phone video half showing up someone's nose is enough to get the gist, but brake bleeding is not one of those times!
Watch the pedal travel when first pumping up the pedal. Do not want to ruin seals in master cylinder. Small pushes until it builds pressure
I did all processes on second master on 98 Chevy reseviour has seals .
Had to replace broken rear feed line, now new. Trying to single person bleed.
Great video! Ive been doing my brakes all my life, never once had anyone do my brakes and i been bleeding them wrong! Thanks for the info!
supposed to put a block of wood or something under the brake pedal so it does not travel so far, as it can damage seals in master cylinder, when you move it out of normal range.
I used to push brake pedal to floor. Tighten brake zirk/ fitting. Then after a reasonable amount of fluids flowed. I was good. Now master cylinder I don't know. Did many on old 70 chevys . 98 is pissing me off. All new lines . I blew 40 buck on a brake bleeder. 3rd now. My problem I have help.
I love this lady, I’ve been literally stranded for nearly 10 weeks. I Had to change out the booster and the master cylinder on a 2000 Bravada, a stubby 15 mm flex ratchet wrench was THE tool.
It’s been a nightmare.
Thanks for this very valuable video. I'm wondering ..... how to flush the abs pump, to avoid some of the pump pistons/plungers to stick? Thank you again
Plus 1 for Sue as a teacher, very well done!!!!!
That turkey baster thing must cost a lot, my uncle had one and kept it under his bed, I guess for safe keeping. I never knew he was a mechanic! Thanks !!!
Actually one of the best clear and straightforward video on bleeding brakes.
Great tutorial. What about the ABS pump, though?
I'll be bleeding my brakes next week. This video was excellent. Subscribed and thumbs up!
I've always had excellent results with the basic gravity bleed. Nothing fancy and it works
Thank you for the really great video and all the detailed information.
My additions would be, as some have already mentioned.
1) Use a small funnel to help direct any and all brake fluid into the reservoir without allowing anything to spill as brake fluid is corrosive.
2) I would place a nice shop towel all around the reservoir to also prevent accidental drips of brake fluid
3) The brake bleeding system you showed appears to have worked, but wasn’t a fan of insert a hard plastic piece inside the inner hole of the bleeder valve. I would prefer to use a correctly size hose that goes around the outside of the bleeder valves nipple to create a surely tight fit to prevent any air getting in when self bleeding your brakes.
4) They sell bleeding systems that also incorporate a one way inline valve that prevents any backward flow while self bleeding. You can also purchase this one way valve for your existing system.
Thanks again for your video your are my favorite for sure Sue!
The shop manual for my 1956 Oldsmobile 98 says, "The correct sequence for bleeding is left front, right front, left rear, and right rear." My Olds has a single reservoir master cylinder, not the dual reservoir MCs commonly found on today's cars -- Could this somehow impact the bleeding order?
It would appear that when fluid is pushed from the master to the only open bleeder (by way of depressing the brake pedal) the other three lines, under pressure, couldn't back flow any brake fluid or air to the master or to the open bleeder. If so, the bleeding order appears irrelevant.
The shop manual also cautions that the vacuum reservoir associated with the power assist brakes be depleted by applying the brake pedal several times with the engine off before bleeding the system. Also, I've seen it commonly mentioned that one should use a socket to first loosen and re-tighten all of the bleeders so you'll know whether any get damaged in breaking them free. Others also suggest using petroleum jelly or grease at the base of any bleeders that leak air during bleeding operation. Lastly, in replacing brake lines, is it a potential brake fluid contamination problem to apply anti-seize grease to the threaded fittings?
Sounds accurate. Don’t know about your question at the end though.
Thanks!
Could you please explain is there any difference in bleeding a car's brake system with abs and without abs. I do believe that there is brake fluid in the lines leading to the abs pumps.
By the way this was a amazing video, like always 😊
From what I understand, the idea is the same but because of the ABS system, the order in which you bleed the brakes might differ. The master cylinder could be in the same place but the difference in the lines might change that order of furthest from the cylinder to closest. I'd also like a thorough explanation.
Very nice video, this lady is good in teaching. I do my brakes the same way and never had any issues. DO NOT LISTEN TO SOME COMMENTS OR OTHER VIDEOS just follow this and you will be fine. Sue my honda CRV manual tell me to bleed the opposite so front driver first. But i always do it the way you did. The master cylinder is in the same location and it should have ABS because the light shows for ABS when i turn on the car
+Danny nica Thanks for watching! Glad we could help!
If you're doing a brake job & spill fluid on your paint, make sure to clean/wash it with soapy water.
I watched at least 4 or 5 videos since yesterday and i'm telling you, this is by far the best one and easy to understand! just subscribed and i'm excited to learn more! thank you!!
This was a excellent video, im trying to return to the automotive field, and these videos really help me. Keep up the great work!!!!
one of the best vids ever ! Im struggling with getting em brakes bled the right way after changing my calipers. Will try doing it again tomorrow with a fresh mind following you.
Keep in mind air sometimes gets introduced from the threads of the bleeder screw itself as well
To fix the problem remove the screw and apply a thin layer of chassis grease to the threads and reinsert screw to bleed without the air being introduced when bleeding resumes
Also when i bleed brakes i put a small block of wood on the floor restricting full travel of the brake pedal and the reason for that is the master cylinder is not extending into uncharted territory scoring the seals and creating an additional problem due to internal master cylinder leaking
You saying not to press the brake pedal all the way down?
@@CartoonWeasel Correct , Limit the pedal travel.
Although it may take more pumps to replace old fluid no issues of possible damage to Master Cylinder Seals
Hi, thanks for the reminder. To apply grease on the screw, do I have to remove it all the way? Or can I just loosen it, then apply grease where it will sit back? Also, while loosening it, some fluid will probably seep out and might mix with the grease I'm trying to apply. Is it OK? First timer.
Excellent idea, I've seen on another brake repair video where he stresses not to go to the floor but the block of wood would fix that....
Great tutorial. I would add checking and lubricating the slide pins on the brakes even if you didn’t replace parts. An ounce of prevention while the wheel is off.
“not this kid” 😂
Very comprehensive and thanks because I will review this video again when doing all 4's with new brakes, calipers, and flush. I love the videos in general as it teaches me a lot
Great thorough video ! Gives us DIYers better confidence to get it done ourselves instead of paying a shop to do it
THANK YOU!! I am headed out to replace my left driver brake line now. I have watched several videos, all made by men, but instructions from woman to a woman just works better. There is no "implied garage knowledge" in your video, i.e. stuff that is lightly referred to and may not be known by someone never doing this before. New subscriber! I hope you have a video about replacing brake pads! 😂
Heres a tip; Hydraulic fluid starts to absorb moisture as soon as it hits the air, so constantly close everything between refills... Old fluid: An old timer told me brake fluid is a natural rubber lubricant. Put the old fluid in a pump oil can or a spray bottle, then use it to lubricate the front end rubber control arms bushings and also the frame to body bushings.I use the Oil can because its more controllable... It will keep the rubber business soft and pliable and from cracking and make the car always feel like new. AND NEVER, never, get any fluid on anything you do not want because it will peel the paint, so use care when working with brake fluid.
In 23 minutes she is able to give sooo much information that I haven’t seen in 2 hour videos 😂.
She is funny and informative at the same time. Even though I’ve been doing everything she recommended, I kept watching.
She reminds me of my high school mechanic teacher. X army mechanic and he was full of information and knowledge, you better listen closely!
Thanks Mr. Cunningham, best teacher I had ever, even when I got detention for wrong torque spec.😂
If you don't do something to seal the threads of the bleeder nipple, you will always see air bubbles in the clear hose getting in via the threads. I would also recommend not pushing the pedal to the floor on each stroke, you can put a block of wood under it to be a temporary stop to limit the travel. Also you would need to use much more flushing and fluid to get most all of the old fluid out, at least a couple of pints
Thank you so much for the video. Now I can bleed the brakes by myself with the kit. I usually get someone to pump the brakes while I loosen the bleeder valve.
Just what I needed! And a girl any motor-head could fall in love with.
Wow what a friendly and incredibly likeable soul and talented mechanic! My son and I will be doing this with confidence this weekend thanks to your awesome, thorough job and explanations with fantastic live demonstrations!
Too much knowledge to comprehend here. We just need to go back to the Flintstone days and use our hairy legs and bare feet to stop the vehicle.
Really appreciate your video's, always helpful. I have watched over a dozen brake bleeding video's you are the only one that cleaned the bleeder when finished with brake clean! Thanks for your post's!
What do you do when the brake fluid starts to come through the threads of the nipple? Can you use teflon tape there? Thanks
Someone mentioned using thick grease or petroleum jelly but I believe they were referring to the bleeder screw threads. I don’t use the pointy, black adapter I use another small piece of tube over the tube end coming out of the bottle and fit that over the end of the bleeder screw after loosening and lightly tightening, leaving the box end wrench on prior to the bleeding tube. Makes a secure seal. Also only opening the screw about 1/4 turn or just enough to let fluid out so as not to expose threads which would cause leaking and sucking in air.
It’s always a pleasure watching your videos. I have used this kit a few times already but enjoy your humor.
you've gotta be careful how far you twist that caliber bleed screw too, it can't be tto loose or it will still suck in air.
Whether old or new, I anneal the copper washers by heating them to bright red then letting it cool down. It softens the copper for a better seal.
Excellent vid, some of those bleeder kits have a check valve so I'm not sure if it's necessary to keep the bottle partially filled with fluid before starting to avoid air going back into brake lines.
I noticed the little black hose fitting. It looks a lot like the check valves I use on aquariums. You may not need to fill the catch bottle first. that is the idea. Of course, I used a HbFrt suction bleeder, and it sucked air around the clear tubing and the threads of the bleed nipple. So I bought a new bleed nipple, and had a friend pump the pedal the old fashioned way for an old toyota corolla.
Love everything about you Sue. Great teacher great video all the way around and love the enthusiasm and its kind of like Norm Abram from this old house but with cars with your new England accent. Bravo.
The reason air bubbles make brakes overheat is because air compresses and decompresses, and bubbles act like a spring in the line (while hydraulic fluid doesn't compress). What happens is when you brake, the air bubble will compress, and then when you release the pedal, the air bubble will keep holding pressure and keep the piston pushing on the pad. Not a pressure anywhere as strong as when you brake, but just enough to keep a certain friction going and heat building up. You can check if your wheels are warm after driving on a highway for a while without braking. That "may" be a sign. Mainly if one wheel is much warmer than the others.
thank you so much for this informative video. i spent a lot of money on a mityvac brake bleeder that has a vacuum pump at the bleeder valve and learned that using that method sometimes causes air to be sucked in through the bleeder valve through the threads. all I was getting was air bubbles in rubber tube. I'm going to try your method tomorrow to see if it works better that way. these brakes haven't been bled since 2005 so it definitely needs new fluid because the stuff coming out was dark green and smelled like rotten fish lol.
you've talked about air, and only briefly talked about dirt in the line. also, what about the use of different pumping numbers based on how far the line is from the master cylinder or and dealing with the abs? always a good or great video from you and the guys.
Spoke really well. She obviously knows what she is talking about. I learned a lot. Great demonstration.
YouR THEE BEST! ....as Im a single mom .and on one income..makin it tight budgeting...i totally can d.i.y. my.brakes booster...brakes are ALL.PROPERALLY BLEED..AND I KNOW.MY SONS AND.I.WILL BE SAFE..AND SAVE 💰🤑💰...GOD BLESS YOU AND PLEASE KEEP POSTING.
Looking at the underneath of that vehicle reminded me why I moved from New England to the south. I don't miss shoveling snow.
Now I know your name! Sue thank you so much, I always watch your Mazda 3 videos from around 2 years ago when I work on my car. I can't tell you how helpful they are
Sue is great at explaining. I always enjoy learning from her a lot
Just got the front calipers replaced in my 68 Datsun 2000 roadster. The brakes are a bit mushy.. I could take it back to the shop, but now I'll just bleed them myself. Great video.
She so awesome. I actually removed my first engine ever after watch one of her videos do it. While it was 100% it was in the ballpark for sure. Total Goat of a mechanic that i would trust and listen to over all the others. Im surprised to see the line cracked open a full turn or turn and a half...i would think it would leak around the threads