How To Fix Air Bubbles In Brake Bleeding, SUPER EASY FIX.
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มี.ค. 2020
- Super Easy stop air bubbles from happening, with this video will teach you how to stop air bubbles from brake bleeding.
Are you frustrated from air bubbles appearing in your process of brake bleeding? Well, you lucky I have just uploaded this video to help people with this annoying problem. This maybe a simple fix but it is a very serious problem, because without fixing the air bubbles out of your brakes. Your brake will feel sponage and too soft.
In this video I am going to show you how to fix this problem of brake bleeding air bubbles. While getting your brakes working normally without any issues, just like how it came out from the factory.
Please watch the video in full to see the final result.
Remember to Subscribe and Like for more videos. If you having difficulities feel free to comment below and I would try my best to help you out. I don't mind helping people out!
Subscribe Now:
/ @builtproject
Watch More:
/ @builtproject
Disclaimer:
Videos produced by BuiltProject are provided for informational purposes only. All material provided within this website is for informational, educational, & entertainment purposes only. Some of these projects, materials, and techniques may not be appropriate for all ages or skill levels. The DIY instructions used here are used to simply breakdown projects to their simplest steps. Please use a clear mind and use all safety precautions while following the tutorials provided by this site. BuiltProject does not make any claims of the safety of the projects, techniques, or resources listed on this site and will not take responsibility of what you do with the information provided by this site. Viewers must be aware by doing projects on their cars they are doing it at their own risk and BuiltProject cannot be held liable if they cause any damage to their cars. With different codes around the world and constantly changing standards, regulations and rules, it is the sole responsibility of the viewer to educate themselves on their local requirements before undertaking any sort of project. That being said BuiltProject cannot claim liability with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. Be safe, have fun fixing your car!
#brakes,#bleed,#AirBubbles - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Key note here that you dont need to take out bleed valves to clean & add grease or silicone to them lot of extra work thats not needed at all, the valves should never be opened that much, valve should be slightly opened to where you just start seeing fluid to leak no bubbles should be entering into the system, i been doing brakes for years never had any problems whatsoever, lot of these diy videos out here are making things seem you have to take extra steps that you dont its nothing but a waste of time, key factor again is to not open valve much at all just slowly turn valve to when fluid starts to leak then stop then proceed to pump the pedal few times then tighten go on to the next bleed valve its that simple.
I concur
What type of grease do u recommend to seal the bleeder valve?
So you don't recommend using the vacuum technique?
Bravo, bravo, bravo. Well said sir.
I agree with Herbert on this one. You only turn the bleeder screw out between 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn. Gravity bleed it first and give it a minute or so to start “ seeping” out of the bleeder ( it will probably only be a slight drip ). Grease on any pa rt of the brakes that come in contact with a rubber seal (ie. the calliper piston area or the calliper slide pin should be silicon brake lubricant. Brake grease is not silicon based will destroy rubber boots and seals. I don’t think there’s much chance that grease on the bleeder screw will contaminate the brake fluid but why take a chance? It would be an expensive repair if the brake fluid becomes contaminated even if it’s highly unlikely. Best practice is to always gravity bleed a few drops of brake fluid when replacing a calliper ( removing the brake line ) and then do a brake pedal pump or vacuum pump with the the bleeder screw turned out no more than 3/4 to 1 turn. I watched a video of a. Mechanic who suggested a technique for preventing the brake fluid from pouring out when changing a brake calliper. He used a long pry bar ( could use a 2 foot piece of wood I guess ) which he put against the brake pedal and the front part of the drivers seat. Then he used the power seat button to push the brake pedal down about 1/2 way. He says this will putt piston inside the master cylinder in a position that will “ seal “ the system so brake fluid won’t come spurting out. I know I-know this doesn’t sound right so I’m wondering if anyone has tried this with success? Seems better than using a C clamp or vide grips to clamp the brake line especially a line that is on a vehicle with 70,000-100,000 miles.
I am having an issue with tiny bubbles and the most common mistake I am making is having the catch-can lower than the caliper which supposedly creates a pressure difference and sucks in air through the screw threads that was never originally in the system.
The solution I've read is to hang the catch-can above the caliper which may help more than thread sealant.
Thank you for this video and I hope this comment helps anyone who may find it.
So true. I raised the catch can: no more bubbles.
If you elevate the position of the jar above the bleed screw these bubbles will stop. With the jar below, the dropping fluid creates a vacuum that pulls air in. So the jar height must be between the reservoir and the bleed screw, then there is always pressure at the screw.
I already did one brake line with the wrong bubble creating position, do I have to do the bleeding again? Or or my brake line is safe from these bubble?
@@mohammedalghamdi7269 If you didn't see bubbles, it's probably ok. The most important is to test the brakes and ensure they work and feel firm. Also if you have replaced all the fluid, then you can bleed more if you need and just recycle from the yar back to the reservoir, so you don't need to buy unnecessary fluid.
@@simont6439 You shouldn't reuse old brake fluid, it absorbs water over time. In fact, you should first remove brake fluid from the reservoir with a turkey baster before bleeding, and fill it with brake fluid from a new, sealed container.
@@sooke54 I wrote "if you have replaced all the fluid". Some times you need to bleed more, after all old fluid is replaced. Then recycling is fine, it's all new fluid in the system.
@@simont6439 And I've just seen a video of someone who having completely replaced the brake fluid noticed the pedal was spongey: he had let the level in the reservoir drop too low. So he recycled back to the reservoir wh ile rebleeding. It worked.
I simply seal it with Vaseline around the bleeder before making the vacuum
This is amazing,
Brake didn’t work after changing fluid,
Didn’t know why, but after watching this video, it worked and no more bubble, and brake worked again, I didn’t find other videos about fixing bubbie issue,
thanks a lot! You are life saver,
IMHO: Air is only a problem when it's INSIDE the caliper (or slave cylinder). The air bubbles shown at the start of this video are not a problem per se, but you should always be careful when using a vacuum bleeder as he is obviously doing here, and NEVER use a vacuum bleeder on drum brakes. The piston seals on a disc brake caliper can handle a little vacuum, but the cups in a drum brake slave cylinder cannot. They will either leak air into the cylinder or (worse) pull away from the piston and become unseated (cocked at an angle in the slave cylinder). The best way to bleed brakes is with slight pressure (less than 4 PSI) on the master cylinder reservoir. This will generally be enough to push all air thru the system and out each wheel. Yes, you have to make some special tooling to do this, but it works perfectly, every time.
Thanks! This is happening to me. Went through a tall can of brake fluid. Got on you tube and your video came up thank you again.
Good job man don't listen to the neg comments you are right about this. Thanks for helping people.
thanks bro, I'm a brake bleeders newbie and my back right was doing this. I figured it was getting in through the threads. I just bought new bleeder valves and added silicone like you said and no more air bubbles, also the brake pedal is solid and doesn't go to the floor like before.
good one. tu.. i practically wasted half bottle of brake fluid wondering where the damn air bubbles coming from.
Those bubble dont matter my guy. Those bubbles are being induced as the fluid exits the brake system. Those bubbles are only in your bleeder tube, not in the brake line. Wasting your time.
Tq for the tips. Good job.
Ya fixed your issue..good thing. Im a old guy, DYI and I've learned that IF ya dont have rust issues and both caliper and bleeder is CLEAN.. little brake cleaner spray. wipe off good. use a NEW/CLEAN clear hose (1/4"). . I have done this up in rust belt and on southern non rust env invironments... I do believe the key is to have a clean bleeder nipple in good condition..or replace it. then use a fresh end of the clear hose....and have at it.. never had an issue
There needs to be a channel specifically foe Rust Belt cars cause 95% of all car videos doesnt go through what we all have to in order to remove things (and i have just about every tool imaginable )
Thank you!
Perfect! Just what I needed!
I use a 1/4 hose spring clip on the bleeder screw and tube, and it works very well.
W T F......the bleeder was to loose !
You open the "valve" only a little bit until the brake fluid starts running.
If you open it to much sure you have air bubbles.
Awesome superb method to stop bubbles
That was happening to me and it was driving me crazy.i like the ideanof that silicone i had stone teflon tape and that seemed to work.good video
I used antiseize but I bet threadlock would work too.
Pretty clever. I had this same problem on one wheel after replacing the master cylinder. I did this only instead of clamping the line I picked up a couple of new bleeder screws, prepared a new one and quickly swapped them out. It DID fix the issue though.
Next time just hold the brake pedal about halfway down. With the piston in the master cylinder like that there's no air pressure pushing it out from the top.
Thanks I saw a video on that exact technique. I asked on another persons comment if anyone had ever tried this and does it work. I guess you’ve done this? Use a 2 foot Oreo piece of wood against the brake pedal and against the front of the seat. On power seats just move the seat forward until the pedal is halfway depressed or push it down with your foot and move the seat in manual.
Thanks for this ,Im having trouble bleeding my brakes and just ordered a new master cylinder Should have watched this first Im going to try using PTFE tape wrapped around the thread
which i think might also work?
As some1 else said, brake fluid is very corrosive & will 100% dissolve teflon tape. So be cautious…
Fantastic job you solved my brake issues.
I use anti seize. Same affect also keeps bleeder from seizing
AWESOME TIP THANKS AND SUGGEST TO EXTRACT THE BRAKE FLUID INSIDE THE CALIPER WHERE THE BLEEDER SCREW GOES AND DRY THE THREAD SO THAT WAY WHEN YOU PUT THE BREEDER SCREW BACK THAT FLUID DOESN'T TAKE OFF ALL THE SILICONE PASTE FROM THE BREEDING SCREWS SO YOU KNOW IS ONLY SILICONE PASTE IN BETWEEN BOTH THREADS NOTHING ELSE 😉🇲🇽👍🏽
Verygood thanks
thank you
ThanX !!!
Did anyone notice that he failed to remove the clamp ? "If the clamp is still on... no air bubbles !!!!!
I noticed the same thing. Also, if the bleeder screw was leaking through the threads it wouldn't be showing air in the tubing at all.
Except that fluid is still flowing outwardly so it's not exactly pinched completely off. Nor should it be, you can damage the line.
Bleeder screw are renownd for not sealing properly even when new. The best thing to do when installing old or new bleeder valves is to wrap the threads in some PTFE tape making sure not to cover the hole. The tape is wide enough to cover the full threads, works a charm....
If you know where the bubbles are coming from, you can just ignore it. The thread leak is higher than the fluid seal. It will be impossible for air to enter into the brake lines through the threads.
@@fungames24not quite. It depends the method of fluid extraction.
Positive pressure, vacuum, manual pump.
It could only be from the master cylinder if the fluid was ever too low right? I know unless you have a scan tool with ABS functions you want to avoid air in there at all costs. Even if you do have the tool you will still want to avoid the hassle.
I have the same issue. While bleeding brakes, I cracked my bleeder just enough to see fluid flow, while using the vacuum method. Air was leaking in thru the threads.
This is completely unnecessary. These bubbles mean nothing, they’re entering after the seating surface of the bleeder valve so they never get into the system.
Exactly 100% you my friend are the first to realize that those bubbles can simply be ignored. They go forward from the screw they never go backwards.
Ok you’re the only person online I’ve seen saying this isn’t an issue. I had the same issue when I was bleeding my passenger caliper but the bubbles would only pop out once I closed the bleeder screw. I’m keeping an eye out on sponginess in the pedal over the week but I’m hoping you’re right on what you’re saying
@@jesuscontreras2499 if you see bubbles after you close the valve then the only area they could enter would be between the valve and your hose, which is even less of an issue as they couldn’t possibly enter the system with a closed valve. As long as you pull a vacuum and you have a positive flow of your brake fluid when the valve is open, any bubbles entering after the seating surface of the bleeder valve are irrelevant. These bubbles are air that makes it through the threads of the valve which are outside of the system. Just be sure to close the valve while you’re pulling a vacuum. Look closely at how the bleeder valve works and it’ll make sense, don’t take my word for it, it’s just how they work. A little bit of anti-seize lubricant on the valve threads (similar to what’s in the video) can help reduce the amount of air passing through there and makes it easier to see air coming from the actual brake system. Plus, future you will tank you when you have to bleed it again in the future and the bleeder valve isn’t rusted in. And don’t forget the dust cap. Cheers
@@Fanzindel thank you very much for your knowledge and insight appreciate you taking the time to explain thoroughly what is going on 🫡
I have a similar issue when my bleeder valve is completely tightened and there are still air bubbles being pulled into the vinyl tube, but it is not really a problem. First take a look at a bleeder valve when it is removed (either in this video or google it); there are threads, then the hole through the valve, and then the cone that seats into the caliper. The seal between the caliper and the bleeder valve is accomplished by the solid cone of the valve seating in the matching recess of the caliper, not the threads. The reason air bubbles are creeping out is because the vinyl hose connected to the bleeder is creating a vacuum with gravity pulling the fluid down the tube and sucking air through the threads into the bleeder valve hole and then into the vinyl tube. It is not pulling air from the sealed caliper. The bleeder threads may or may not be airtight, these threads are not the seal, the cone is. If the threads are airtight, you will not see the bubbles, but if the threads are not airtight air will be drawn through them and then come out as bubbles into the vinyl line. This video is sealing the threads with silicone, which will block the air from being pulled through the treads and into the tube, but again the threads are not the seal to the caliper the bleeder cone is. Here are a few tests... 1) Move your fluid container above the brake bleeder valve, gravity will no longer be pulling the fluid down and creating a vacuum to pull air through the threads. 2) Similar to the first test, after bleeding your brakes, clear the vinyl line of fluid. Now hook the vinyl tube back up and bleed a little fluid into the hose with the hose pointing up with none of the fluid being drawn downward, then close the bleeder valve. If bubbles are not coming out of the valve you are good (no vacuum is pulling the air through the threads). 3) After bleeding the brakes, and torquing the bleeder valve closed, pump the brakes and see if any fluid is escaping from the bleeder valve, either through the threads or out of where the vinyl tube connects, if no fluid is coming out your bleeder valve is seated and sealed. Note: I am not a professional mechanic, so if you think I am incorrect, please tell me why.
Tank's
Problem...?
This air is sucked in via the nipple threads AFTER the fluid has passed the caliper piston(s), so no... This is not a problem..
Thnks
2 explain quickly and easily. thread sealant. many people in plumbing use many different ways to seal theyre threads. for me, as a gas piper, i would always use white thread tape, and yellow pipe dope, first the tape then the dope on the threads. as you tighten down the fitting, it will get tighter, and the white tape and the yellow dope, will fill the threads, and create an airtite seal.
this seal will hold for a very long time. The factory seal, if i could imagine, would perhaps use the "thread sealant" or pipe dope only. I do not know why alot of factory seals tend to only use thread sealant, or dope only, but this is what i have seen. It is substandard imm. perhaps people will try this, from reading this post, but i reccomend it. rector seal #5.
If doing a gravity or vacuum bleed.it's not necessary to take the bleeder valve out and clean it. Before you start spray the outside of the bleeder valve with brake cleaner. Start to do the bleed and then apply silicone grease around the base of a bleeder. The grease will be pulled into the threads. If doing a pressure bleed, fluid is pushed out loose valve threads under pressure, sucked in when released. Plumbers teflon paste or tape actually works better to seal fluid lines, but is not a common automotive shop substance.
its used on all compressor fittings so i would hope most people tackling a diy brake bleed would have t-tape! i was thinking the same thing while watching this that t-tape would be a much safer way to go ensuring nothing will have a chance of clogging your bleeder valve
@@bren_howorthwe don’t use Teflon on our compressor fittings. We just check the threads and tighten them up, holds 140 psi no leaks, no problems
smart
75 dollars an hour to clean a 1.75 cents bleeder screw.
Btw the bubbles are going out not in. The only reason you would do this is if you can't tell what bubbles are what.
As long as air is going out and not going into the system it's fine
This is the answer I needed. Thank you.
But when those little bubbles are coming out, how do you know if that air is from inside the system or just getting sucked in past the bleeder screw threads?
@@deanb6163 in this case, the bleeder screw is way too loose so it's obvious that's where the air is coming from. If you suspect air is coming through the threads, put some grease around the base of the bleeder on the threads. If the bubbles aren't at least reduced then there's air in the system.
Bubbles won't appear if pressure bleeding. This happens with those hand vacuum bleed pumps. Also, just place a bit of grease or lube around outer edge of the screw threads before starting the bleed process. It is not necessary to be that precise sealing the threads.
I start with 20" Hg on the pump, open the bleeder, and close it again when I'm down to 5" Hg. No pumping while the bleeder is open.
I'm never pinching a brake line closed but thanks for trying
U have the bleeder screw way too loose
*Thanks for watching and I hope my video helped you out! Don't forget to subscribe and like for more helpful videos like this one ;)*
Smear a bit of grease around the base of the bleeder screw.
I know my question sound silly or stupid, but I will just ask anyway.
When you about to remove the bleed screw, what thing or tube you clamp to stop the fluid keep coming throught from the bleed screw hole?
And after you done applying the silicone and install the silicone coated bleed screw into their position, do you needed to re-bleeding the system?
Thanks for read my question
Really appreciate for the answer
Nothing silly or stupid about your question brother, and I am sorry I haven't explained properly when I done the video :(
I used a clamp called Vise C-Clamp, but you could use any kind of clamp just to stop the fluid.
(Just remember, DO NOT put too much pressure on the brake fluid hose when you tighting the clamp, and put a piece of cardboard or cloth to protect the hose from getting damaged. You could see from my video I left the clamp a bit lose. Because it's ok if little bit of fluid leaks out, it won't cause any harm)
Yes I did re-bleeded the brakes for half an hour, just wanted to make sure there are no air left.
Feel free to ask any question you want and I am more than happy to help you out :) Happy brake bleeding and have a wonderful day!
He clamped the "brake hose". It is the only rubber hose going to the brake caliper.
I take a small stopper and push it into the hole. In come cases, your bleeder cap may work for this...
If you don't make mistakes you ain't doing anything
Nice job.
I use the same method by find ez turn fuel lube holds up better then the silicone grease 😉
Thats another great idea :)
I can’t seem to get the tube over the washer so the fluid is leaking out of the top of the tube and none is going inside the tube, what can I do?? I’m stuck and frustrated
Why go through all that, those bubbles mean nothing. Now change the rubber hose you probably just damaged.
What I do is open it bleed for awhile with the motive pressure bleeder then close it pump it back up to 15 crack it open if it shoots clear first shot I'm done it's good. If you sit there let it run for awhile it will start to suck air in the threads. I usually also test drive brakes should be firm if you feel spongy then still have air.
Plumber's tape & grease on threads works great 👍
What a complete waste of time.
Help! I had front brake job done and now steering wheel shudders when turning from stop. I took it back to shop and was told by mechanic it has air bubbles in brake lines and they go away in a couple days. True?
Not true I'm afraid, air in the brake system will stay within the closed system, that's why we have to bleed them...💚🇬🇧🌱
your mechanic is a idiot!!
That's a bad mechanic. Just check all lug nuts are tight.
Not true about air causing it. a bolt is loose on the brake caliper or its bracket maybe or your cv joint (half shaft) may have gone bad now or a wheel bearing popped or your tire was drivin out of alignment for so long it wore out part of the tread so you feel it when you turn. Hard to tell without more info and pics. Many things can cause this really
Good info, tried using a dab of lithium grease suggested on other videos around outside of bleed valve but that only slowed it down, going to try some PTFE tape which should hopefully do the trick.
Please don't do this.
The bleeder screw is way too loose.
If you keep having bubbles like this you can apply a thin coat of grease around the screw.
b¡tch please we use grease same style problem solve
Silicone grease is what is used in caliper pins. What are you bitching about?
great video, too much silicon paste could contaminate brake fluid
you don't want ANY type of fluid mixing with brake fluid
Don't let the comments about the procedure being unnecesary bother you, at least you can be reasonably sure the air bubbles aren't coming from within the brake system
You didn't take the clamp off the brake hose at the end?
Sorry about that, I forgot.
Do NOT teach people wrong and extra hassle for a fairly simple job if the person knows properly what is doing. You are responsible for your own ideas when you publish it. I have serviced simple commuter Cars as well as high performance cars in 30 plus years with no need of such silly methods...In your case air bubbles coming in through bleeder threads and travels out of tubing, as long as tubing is submerged in brake liquid there is no chance for air entering the system, you have unthreaded bleeder valve too much to show off your point.🤔
so what is the solution then ?
The diagnosis is correct but you could do better by replacing the bleeder screw with a new one. I had the same issue with my front driver's side brake bleeder screw. Constant bubbles through the line. I'd let the master cylinder get too low when doing a brake fluid change but thought 'there's no way there's that much air in the system'. Noticed the bleeder screw was a bit loose so just as an experiment, I tried a little Teflon tape around the threads. Bubbles stopped flowing. Considered just leaving it that way with the tape but thought 'these are the brakes, this is serious'. Bought a new bleeder screw and put 2 wraps of Teflon tape just for some insurance. The brake fluid flowed perfectly clear. Finished checking the other brake caliper and have perfect brakes now.
Second set of calipers that have this issue. They dont may the bleed screw at high enough tolerance. So unless you have a pressure bleeder, youre SOL.
Also, on Jeeps, the bleed screws are so freaking loose that even with teflon its not enough. Crap parts. The old rusted ones sealed up way better.
Im about to junk this Jeep over this issue. It cost 1000 bucks so far and after replacing everything, still no go. Other than upgrading to some 2000 dollar brakes, I dont know what else is left but to set it on fire.
in this car market its only worth fixing things. not selling
Put grease around the base of the bleeder. It's not perfect but it might work good enough.
I hope there is no more air bubbles, you never took the clamp off. Great way to ruin a flex line clamping it fwiw...
C'mon Man you know the thing
Why dont you remove the clamp at the final? Of course the bubble still stop if the clamp remain on the hose
As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled.
That making sure the master is filled ain't no easy walk..you'll get carried away watching the tool go to work just to do it all over again if the master is low enough to suck IN any aire
@@monstaro19There isn't much fluid in a bike system. One pump at a time and check the master. Remember if you do it this way there is no need to open and close the bleeder. You can't draw air into the system if the end of the tubing is submerged. This is by far the easiest and most effective one-person method to bleed a system. By the way, there is no need to open the bleeder more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Unscrewing it more than that is one reason you are getting those tiny bubbles in the first place. The other reason is that you are pumping the brake with the bleeder closed. That agitates the air in the system and creates more bubbles. I have watched a bunch of these videos and almost all of them say to pump the brake with the bleeder closed. This is 100% WRONG!
Looks like a good fix! But my question is.. brand new calipers are giving me these air bubbles & older calipers are giving me these air bubbles? What gives!? All 4 have a screw leaking issue? & wouldn’t that cause an issue air getting in to the system eventually? I kno it’s going to be threaded down when closed but still doesn’t make me think it would fully seal if all the threads are leaking 🤔 & when I close the threads & pump up vacuum pressure wouldn’t the threads be seeping air causing the pressure to drop? Cause it does not drop it stays where I pumped it too? Damn this is getting annoying & I keep getting murdered by bugs!?! 😆
have you thought about using teflon tape
The tapered end is what seals the caliper air/water tight.
When you crack open the valve, the tapered end is pulled away from the hole inside, which then allows fluid to flow out and through the hole on the side of the valve.
The threads only need to keep the tapered end down tight.
Putting some grease around the outside would have done the same thing.
These days they don't know how to make a bleeder screw that seats properly, just loosen it up and you can wiggle it around it's so loose. It's probably from refurbishing them too many times.
Do not use tape on the bleeder screw threads! 😂You don’t want tape in the system. Apply synthetic grease on the exposed threads and don’t open the screw too much or you will get air bubbles.
Brand new bleeder valves installed. I'm still getting this big time. The liquid isn't even coming through the tube effortlessly. It's just bubbles really
I am sorry to hear this my friend, I know it is a pain in the neck when this happens.
Unfortunately my solution in this video won't help you match. The only way to fix your issue is to keep bleeding the brakes. Because, it seems to me your Master Cylinder is full of air and thats a big issue. But it is fixable. So, the only way to fix it, is by keep bleeding your brakes from 0. Just remember it will takes you a long time, so be patient. :(
However, use a clean bottle to bleed your brakes, this way you can re-use the brake fluid without wasting it.
So, do like this when the bottle is full of fluid take it and re-empty it in the Master Cylinder. Keep doing it this way till you get all the air out.
Wish you best of luck and i hope you get it fixed, just remember never give up ;)
If we want to purge a system with ABS without a scanner, how would we do it? If you want to change hoses or brake calipers, etc.
You need the right tool, it’s a tablet sort of vehicle diagnostic tool that can electronically purge your abs module to get that fluid moving.
Flush/bleed your brakes like normal, then go find a gravel road and slam on your brakes a few times to activate the ABS then bleed again. May need done a couple times and not the safest option of course lol. I do not recommend this and I’m also not legally liable for anything if you chose to do this, if you do everything that happens will be of your own doing and only you can be held liable.
@@sheesh4225 umm, I like this way but as you say best a scanner. Thanks.
@@cransaftvalve734 lol I’m sure an open field would work too, I actually seen this method as a recommendation on a forum the other day. I just added the legal stuff cuz I don’t wanna end up liable for someone crashing. Can’t be too careful these days lol, depending on the vehicle and whether I could find a place to do so I’m sure I’d attempt it myself. But yeah maybe time to invest in a good obd2 scanner with that functionality
@@sheesh4225 I have a Delphi CRD2.x ECU and have purchased multiple scanners and returned them. It doesn't read many parameters. I don't know, it must be special.
I'm going to be installing brand new disc brake calibers on my 2001 Dodge ram 1500 over the weekend. Brand new bleeder valves, I'm thinking maybe one or two wraps of Teflon tape in the threads to avoid any possible leakage? Any comments?
yeah dont do that.
Best to follow the service guides/instructions. Any I've seen say clean and torqued to spec. Risk of bleed coming loose could result in loss of fluid and brake failure. Unlikely with tape but why risk it?
silicone plumbers tape works just as well...less messy
also a small amount of silicone grease
none of this is necessary
use teflon tape not silicon paste. Cut teflon tape don't pull it apart.
teflon tape dissolves in brake fluid. good luck with that
Last time I bleed my brakes while my car was running I opened the brake bleeder screw n it shot brake fluid with so much pressure...
Lol, yeah, don't do that. Bleed the brakes with the engine off.
The bleeder was too loose.
I was always under the impression that once you removed the bleeder screw, that all the brake fluid would come out. In your case, I did not see that happen. Why did the fluid not flow out?
He clamped down the brake hose to stop the fluid flow.
Which is a bad idea because brake hoses have a plastic liner and clamping them off can break that liner leading to premature brake hose failure.
Not a bad tip, but what you want to add is pipe thread sealant to fill the spaces between the threads. . Works well on tranismission bolts too as well. Silcone grease does not seal the spaces between the threads just lubricates. Teflon tape I guess is a similar but less ideal because it can degrade over time.
No,never ever use tape or sealant on brake fittings-EVER
@@johnnyhotrodI'm not sure if you understand how a brake bleeder seals. It is similar to an AN fitting it does not seal at the threads, it seals at the head of the bleeder. That is why air can make its way through the threads the moment you crack the bleeder loose. Using Teflon tape ect. enables you to seal the threads while having the bleeder open and is necessary especially when you reverse bleed/pump fluid into the bleeder. There is no problem with leaving the teflon tape on, but if it bug you enough you could remove it after the procedure is done.
@@zacharysells7610 I understand.I also understand any good mechanic would never ever use Teflon tape on a brake fitting.First a simple zip tie will seal the tubing around the curvature of the fitting with no introduction of air.If you want to use a little grease around the base of the fitting that is also standard practice.These people are telling others that it’s good practice to use Teflon tape around a brake fitting-no,it’s not ok.Teflon tape tears and little pieces of tape will be introduced into the brake system.If you’ve seen the size of the hole in the bleeder screw you’ll understand why this is a horrible idea.Ask any mechanic worth his salt and he’ll tell you there is absolutely no reason to use a sealant on break fittings.Someone is going to get hurt from following internet advice here.Teflon tape should never be used on ANY hydraulic system.
@@zacharysells7610 Never use Teflon tape on any hydraulic system.I wrote a long explanation but they deleted it.Don’t do it period,dangerous.Research properly
Please do not follow this video on your own brake job. As has been stated the last thing you want is foreign substance in your brake system. This is bad information.
There isn't much fluid in a bike system. As long as the drain end of your bleed tube is submerged in fluid, you won't draw air into the system. Just open the bleeder and pump the brakes until no bubbles form. No need to loosen and tighten the bleeder. Just make sure the master stays filled. One pump at a time and check the master. Remember if you do it this way there is no need to open and close the bleeder. You can't draw air into the system if the end of the tubing is submerged. This is by far the easiest and most effective one-person method to bleed a system. By the way, there is no need to open the bleeder more than 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn. Unscrewing it more than that is one reason you are getting those tiny bubbles in the first place. The other reason is that you are pumping the brake with the bleeder closed. That agitates the air in the system and creates more bubbles. I have watched a bunch of these videos and almost all of them say to pump the brake with the bleeder closed. This is 100% WRONG!
Say who
Say huh
1st that won't happened unless
We do what he did
Unscrew 95%of the way🤔🙈
2nd if that's a problem used a
White silicon ring😁
Or replace the
.75 cent piece
😆 nice video
On what not to do.
On my car you can pump the brakes with the car off before you bleed and it doesn't leak no need to clamp the hose.
This doesn't matter. None of this matters
-Carl
Thanks for the tip! I will probably just stick the silicone grease on the outside though, or just unscrew it a couple turns to apply it.
Idk why you gor so much hate in the comments. Many complained that these bubbles don't matter because it's not actually air in the brake line. But duh, you obviously know that (and basically explained as much). The point is that when there are bubbles, it's impossible to be certain the line is 100% purged of air.
The others are just saying that it's a "bad idea" without stating why, or that you need to replace it. Super weird, and just shows that they don't understand brakes nor basic physics, ha. I'll never understand why people who clearly have no idea like to publicly demonstrate that they have no idea.
Someone mentioned PTFE tape, is it plumbing tape?
Never,ever use PTFE tape or other sealant on brake fittings-will end badly for your brake system.
@@johnnyhotrodBS
Yes, PTFE tape is the same as plumbers tape. It's quite safe to use.
@@garyredmond1890 Please tell me you don’t work on peoples cars
@johnnyhotrod OK, I don't work on other people's cars. I hope me saying that keeps you in your happy place. 🤣
It's totally wasted effort (those bubbles don't matter unless let them get sucked into the cylinder) but there's an easier way to accomplish the same thing. Close the bleeder valve in the area around it with brake clean apply silicone grease liberally around the base of the bleeder. The grease will get drawn into the threads, blocking the air.
“Not going to make a mess”…..Proceed to make a mess.
“Just a little bit of paste”….Proceeds to put 1/4 pound of paste. 😂😂😂😂 What a hack! Totally unnecessary process.
I use teflon tape.
nope
Brake fluid will dissolve thread tape after a while
Please don't do this.
Put some wax on the bleeding screw and bubbles disappear 😂
or thread wrap w teflon type tape?
can do that too. I use a dab of grease.
Or... use a pressure bleeder... especially when working on drum brakes
Why do y'all haters just criticize?? Is your life so miserable that that's all you can do is complain and find shit wrong with stuff that people put on here to be helpful? Why don't you just not say anything st all and put your own video out there if you think everyone else got it all wrong....huh?
Are you for real? If shit is wrong procedurally or technically, I would hope others would point it out so we don't make the same mistake. Has nothing to do with hating. Just criticism is necessary for one to learn and grow. Especially when it comes to safety and posting videos on social media. Is your life so glorious that you've never been corrected? Good, bad, or indifferent, not everyone is afraid of critiquing others. And not saying anything is exactly why our society is the way it is today. Now don't be a hypocrite and criticize my comment. Like you said, "Why don't you just not say anything." See how that works? Welcome back to reality.
U are supposed to criticize that is how u prevent death silly. U want criticism so you can see fatal flaws otherwise people will say nothing afraid of being called names then boom someone dies because they can’t stop??? Who cares u can cry all u want this is peoples lives tough love we don’t care cry us a river.
@johnnyappleseedz422 the guy in video did nothing wrong though 😂. People for ages have thrown paste or Vaseline around threads. The flex hoses will be just fine if it wasn't old.. and if it was old then guess what.. change it, because it's probably on its way out anyway lol.
Don’t squeeze that brake tube , worst thing you can do 🤦♂️
If there is air inside do you hear the car sounds like ramming?
ABS?
Skip to 4:00 for the fix.
Easiest fix... Don't use vacuum, use pressure. Take that plastic tube and submerse it in clear water bottle partially filled with brake fluid. Open the bleeder and pump the pedal keeping the end of the hose submerged in fluid so it cant suck air back in the system. Pump the pedal until all bubbles are gone, close the bleeder. No vacuum, grease or tape..
There are lots of videos on this method.
on a dodge charger scatpack should the car be running?
@@dehavenmoor9634 engine vacuum is for the brake booster, an assisting device for the pedal. It does not make pressure in the brake lines. The brake pedal does that.
All you did was gravity bleed the caliper while you were wasting your time with the silicone paste.
Teflon tape
Absolutely not
never.
This is a very dumb backwards video
possibly the only good piece of info is the grease on the tube to seal any air that may blead through the screw bleed head and tube. Do not think you would have to of removed the blead screw. just lather it up. otherwise ....wow
4:06 SILICONE PASTE ON A HYDRAULIC BRAKE HOSE OR BANJO BOLT.. WOW.. THERES WASHERS TO SEAL THOSE TO STOP LEAKS.. THOSE VALVES WILL HAVE BRAKE FLUID ON THEM. SILICONE CAN MESS WITH THE CALIBER OR BREAKING
SYSTEMS
JUST GET NEW BRAKE CALIPERS FROM AMAZON NEW A PREMIUM BRAKE HOSES NEW BRAKE CALIPER BANJO BOLTS YOUR GOOD
He was talking about the bleeder screw and bleed hose. Not the brake hose. If there's a leak at a banjo bolt, new washers are required as a minimum. If that doesn't work, new banjo bolt, brake hose or even caliper may be required.
There's no more air bubbles because the hose is pinched off
haha, you right.
the air bubbles are NOT coming from the top tube .......... only the bleeder valve threads ...it will do no harm whatsoever!