A lot of people break the bold but you didn’t I guess your the better mechanic then other guys that break cays they don’t know the hell their doing you really show how to remove it without ease I know you need to use heavy lubricant cause all the once I watch in TH-cam broke theirs, can I bring car to once I get my front pipe!!!
Thanks for the guide. How did you remove the forward most bolt on the heat shield? Step 4.3 of your guide. I can't get my hand in there for that angle.
It's tough... I would say your best bet is to actually reach in from under the car and fish your hand up with the wrench / socket. You should be able to at least crack it loose and spin it off by hand that way. Otherwise you can try fighting extensions and swivel connections from the top, but it is hard to keep the socket on the bolt head that way. As a last resort you can remove the front cross bracing on top of the radiator (just takes more time that way, which is why I didn't bother with it.)
@@benandzoeyshatto6108 I was actually able to get off three of the bolts while leaving the heat shield on using flex joints. I can't get the last one off tho, the bolt that is hidden on the bottom right. In the manual it's the dotted yellow one. What did you use for this one?
Having difficulty getting the front facing 12 mm bolt back into the top heat shield upon reassembly. I was able to barely get the bolt in from the bottom, but it just spins. Any tips?
Yeah that bolt is tough. If it is just spinning though you must not have engaged the threads though. keep trying and don't get frustrated. Or I also have heard of guys just leaving that bolt out. I don't think it will be the end of the world if you do.
@@bshatto3111 thanks, I managed to get it. I had one person reach up from the bottom and insert it blindly while I used a 1/2 inch ratchet as a pry bar from the top to push the opening in heat shield closer to the hole in the turbo assembly. They then had to use a small gear wrench blindly from the bottom to tighten the bolt by a few degrees at a time, while I maintained pressure with the pry bar. For anyone reading this - just get a damn turbo blanket and throw the OEM shield out.
If you run a de-fouler on the catted downpipe you shouldn't require a tune and it shouldn't throw codes. You will get more power gains from a tune though. If you run a catless downpipe you should get a tune as it will almost certainly throw a code, even with a de-fouler.
The actual removal and instillation should be able to be done in 2-3 hours, but I would let the penetrating liquid soak into the turbo bolts and studs for at least an hour.
![ออกพรรษาน้ำตาหล่น - แอน อรดี [OFFICIAL MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PFZtOcY9ONA/mqdefault.jpg)
![FK8 Civic Type R Downpipe [Review] | MAPerformance](/img/n.gif)
This is great. Thank you so much for sharing. By far the best fk8 dp install video I've seen
perfect video und very clear. The OEM Downpipe killing 27 HP. Now i have my own Downpipe and modified Exhaustsystem.
oh my that music needed to be muted.
A lot of people break the bold but you didn’t I guess your the better mechanic then other guys that break cays they don’t know the hell their doing you really show how to remove it without ease I know you need to use heavy lubricant cause all the once I watch in TH-cam broke theirs, can I bring car to once I get my front pipe!!!
What’s the downpipe torque specs ?
what mileage does the car have when it was installed?
Thanks for the guide. How did you remove the forward most bolt on the heat shield? Step 4.3 of your guide. I can't get my hand in there for that angle.
It's tough... I would say your best bet is to actually reach in from under the car and fish your hand up with the wrench / socket. You should be able to at least crack it loose and spin it off by hand that way. Otherwise you can try fighting extensions and swivel connections from the top, but it is hard to keep the socket on the bolt head that way. As a last resort you can remove the front cross bracing on top of the radiator (just takes more time that way, which is why I didn't bother with it.)
@@benandzoeyshatto6108 I was actually able to get off three of the bolts while leaving the heat shield on using flex joints. I can't get the last one off tho, the bolt that is hidden on the bottom right. In the manual it's the dotted yellow one. What did you use for this one?
Having difficulty getting the front facing 12 mm bolt back into the top heat shield upon reassembly. I was able to barely get the bolt in from the bottom, but it just spins. Any tips?
Yeah that bolt is tough. If it is just spinning though you must not have engaged the threads though. keep trying and don't get frustrated. Or I also have heard of guys just leaving that bolt out. I don't think it will be the end of the world if you do.
@@bshatto3111 thanks, I managed to get it. I had one person reach up from the bottom and insert it blindly while I used a 1/2 inch ratchet as a pry bar from the top to push the opening in heat shield closer to the hole in the turbo assembly. They then had to use a small gear wrench blindly from the bottom to tighten the bolt by a few degrees at a time, while I maintained pressure with the pry bar.
For anyone reading this - just get a damn turbo blanket and throw the OEM shield out.
Do you need to tune the car for thi type of downpipe? Does it give you any codes?
If you run a de-fouler on the catted downpipe you shouldn't require a tune and it shouldn't throw codes. You will get more power gains from a tune though. If you run a catless downpipe you should get a tune as it will almost certainly throw a code, even with a de-fouler.
Rv6 cat how many flange gasket did it came with?cuz they only came with 1 when i received mine..
It only comes with one gasket to use at the downpipe / front pipe connection. Re-use the gasket between the downpipe and the turbo.
How long is the installation.
The actual removal and instillation should be able to be done in 2-3 hours, but I would let the penetrating liquid soak into the turbo bolts and studs for at least an hour.
The oil droplet coming from drain-plug at 4:18. smh lol
It's not oil - it is PB blaster that drained along the oil pan from when I sprayed the bolts on the downpipe. You can see the run marks along the pan.
Sorry man music sucked took away from the vid
Then mute it? I mean is that to hard?