I purchased a “C220 FROM 2012 WITH 200K ON THE CLOCK” a lady one driver, meticulously maintained. The fuel bill is minuscule and performs better than its petrol equivalent. It reaches it top speed faster than the petrol version, with a higher top speed and on 25% less fuel, WINNER!!!!!!!!!.
I have the same car. So couple of points the engine will not regenerate the d.p.f if there is 1: an engine fault code present. 2: the fuel level is below 15 litres. 3: the ash content is too high. Fix the air mass first then drive the car it will heat up the Dpf rapid you will know it’s regenerating because it will drive faster than usual and a lot of heat will be felt under the the drivers side. It will clear the Dpf in about 15 miles if in good condition. They don’t suffer from Dpf problems unless the conditions haven’t been met. Good luck
I have the saloon version of this car on a 58 plate with 219K on the clock and the 6-speed manual transmission. The diesel engines are generally quite bulletproof. The intercooler hoses are prone to splitting but they're not too expensive to replace even from the dealer. It is worth running some Cataclean through the fuel system. I've done it on mine. One big issue with the W204 is corrosion on the rear subframe. Fortunately, this should be covered by warranty. I'm a Topdon fanboy myself and I would definitely recommend their products are they're good quality.
My OM646 is none the worse for supermarket fuel although Costo's offerings are preferred due to the cost. BG products are good. I think you meant BG244 because BG44K is for petrol.
Depends how hard you drive these modern diesels. Diesel is over 7 dollars a gallon in Germany so they drive very conservatively and the motors last. Older diesels lasted well. New ones far less bulletproof! Timing chains and oil leaks are a problem.
I still miss my old Seat 1.9 TDI 110hp, in the end it was old, had a ton of miles, but the fairly simple engine was so tough. In the 15 years I had it, apart from some discs, bushes and normal servicing, it needed nothing, returned 50 to 60 mpg......it was quick enough after being chipped, utterly brilliant car !
All the 2l diesels we've had have been tough and unstressed and have covered a lot of miles with little more than fluid and filter changes@@shueibdahir
P2463 is probably a result of the MAF being faulty. If the mass airflow sensor isn't reading correctly the DPF regeneration will be inhibited so it will keep accumulating soot. I'd take a gander and say that when the MAF works properly, the DPF will clear itself out during a few drive cycles. MAF code could also be caused by a leaky boost pipe or an EGR valve that is sticking open if it's a performance code.
That is not a old diesel. The old ones do not have most of the emmisions control stuff that causes the problems as they get older. Indeed some people swear by older generation ones that seem to go on forever.
I have a 2006 Citroën C4 1.6l, 16 valve diesel coupé which I bought for €2800 at the beginning of last year. 240K KMs (150K miles) on the clock. Apart from a freak occurence which broke the turbo (€600 replacement), it runs like clockwork. I know it will break down one of these days but is a great drive and gives me lots of freedom. I drive carefully and get 70 MPG from it. If you look after an old car it will look after you.
Turbo failure is a very common problem on those 1.6 PSA diesel engines. The turbo was almost intended to be a consumable part after 200.000km, there is a strainer in the oil supply line which gets clogged and starves the turbo of oil. Fords and Volvos with this engine will suffer the same fate.
Pre dpf are fine apart from egr valves but the modern shit the emissions equipment is so bad even worse on the euro 6 diesels especially jaguar land rover there dpfs are melting/cracking at low mileages so a dpf clean wont fix them
@@Barbarapape 2.0 hdi /2.0 tdci ( same engine) are amazing and last past 300 thousand miles if looked after, yeah parts will need replacing but that's maintenance..... everyone moans on about injectors and Duel mass flywheels etc yeah parts need replacing if you can afford that get the bus😂
We had a 2 litre hdi automatic hatch back , kept it for 14 years used to cruise to south of France in it at 3,600 rpm in top = 106mph by the satnav And 50mpg overall , truly great car
I my experience high mileage diesels tend to be very reliable... Assuming they arent a bad construction. My b6 passat with a 2.0pd and dsg has 205k miles on it, bough it with 163k. In 3 years never had a major issue with it. Recently rebuilt the suspension because i knew i was gonna keep the car for another 3 years at least and wanted it to ride nice, and done the dual mass as well because I was starting to hear a little rattle, was told i could've used it for at least another year but I wanted it done. Apart from that car has been absolutely trouble free, its loaded with extras and everything works. Just recently had an engine light for glow plugs, which again, just regular maintenance stuff on diesels. Not even gonna take it to the garage, they are easy to do. Many of my friends own bimmer, audi and merc diesels, they are also trouble free. If they were looked after they will outlive most cars. Its just people buy these premium cars and then not do the proper maintenance and drive them into the ground, then someone buys it without proper inspection and when the engine goes because it had bad oil in it or not changed they blame the brand and thats how the bad reputation builds.
I would say the opposite: old Diesels are less trouble than modern common rail, DPF, Ad Blue motors. Any pre Common Rail Merc Diesel is pretty bulletproof if looked after. If anyone has a nice clean late 90s E300 Turbodiesel I’ll have it off of you!
If the DPF is blocked, there's something preventing regeneration - possibly even just low oil quality. If you're getting MAF codes they might be the MAF or due the DPF being blocked... MAF is an easy change and then a DPF clean (not a forced regen). Then re-evaluate.
My old fiat diesel fiat stilo estate did over 300k (200k mine) miles before I retired it for an identical 19yr old replacement bought for £700. Blanked off the EGR valve, regularly clean air mass sensor, use Dipetane fuel additive to reduce particulates, 55mpg overall. Old school high mileage diesels rock !
@@ChopsGarage Your agenda is noted. you use an example of a car known to be expensive on parts and labour to make you point. This Merc has very little in common with say a 1.5TDCi Engine vehicle at all. The only issue with Diesels is DPFs, DMFs & Pump & injectors.. Neither of which will be an issue before 90,000miles, some a lot longer than that. Diesel engines (the Actual engine and transmissions) are Very reliable. It's also a lot more financially viable to fix a Focus or a mondeo than it is a Mercedes.. & That is why you selected a Merc for this video. Your agenda is OBVIOUS.
@GMT439 🤣🤣agenda??! Lol! What is this some conspiracy. Dramatic much? What did I have 20 part ex diesels in front of me and said, oh I must pick the merc for my agenda 🤣🤣 thanks this proper made me laugh
Diesel reliability does really depend on how well the vehicle has been maintained. I bought my old company car a Peugeot 405 with 120k on the clock many years ago and it had 240k when I finally sold it on. I currently have a Kia Ceed diesel with 151 k on the clock and it's still running well, Regular oil changes are crucial on diesels. I wouldn't buy a merc or any other German built car, far to complicated and therefore uneliable, and bloody expensive to repair.
agree all you need to do is change the oil for high quality oil with a good filter at least once a year or every 8000 miles or so -- my diesel is near 300,000 miles never failed a MOT and neve had to do any engine work on it (Citreon)
I agree with you but as complicated as the OM651 is, it is surprisingly reliable. Even the BMW N47 with its timing chain problems is pretty reliable but again wickedly complex.
Unfortunately changing the oil regularly, the air filter, brake fluid etc doesn't have any bearing on the adblue system, sensors, pump, dpf, exhaust gas recirculation system etc.
@@davidnorton5887well it does because most of those systems fail because of oil blow by caused by engine wear. Changing the oil regularly minimises engine wear and prevents those problems.
This is a lovely car with years of life left in it. There will be issues and pricing reflects this but a Mercedes CDI will probably double this mileage. Diesels can be more complicated but this car has the potential to be a reliable one and a joy to own. A DPF clean , Forte or Millers treatment, an oil change and a good run?
"Diesels can be more complicated", you say. How? FFS petrol engines are way more complicated, and likely to have even more to worry about at this mileage. Sure the diesels may have some issues, but they're not complicated at all, compared to petrol.
But inevitably they are - EGR valves, Turbo chargers, DPFs, Add Blue etc etc. Yes there are equally complicated petrol cars but similarly a basic non turbo, 16v petrol engine will be cheaper to run, more reliable particularly when driving lower mileages at lower speeds and cost less to service overall. If we dare to go back to older diesels, they are less complicated. Modern diesels are efficient, economical and are still capable of high mileages but the trade and buyers urge care. Not worth a pedantic argument really but years in the trade and in charge of fleets, points to lower overall costs with a petrol engine.. By the way all three of my cars are modern diesels. Why? I like the economy, flexibility and long distance ability. I am always weary though and therefore maintain my servicing requirements.@@An_Idiot_in_the_Wild
@@An_Idiot_in_the_WildWell for a start, all diesels are turbocharged where some petrols are not. Diesels have dpf and cats whereas petrol will have only cats. Diesels have two fuel pumps. They have egr flaps which petrols dont, they have intake swirl flaps which some petrols dont have. Some petrol engines are complicated but diesels are almost always more complicated
I just bought the Topdon Artidiag 600s. You and Car UK have pipped on about their products so much I thought I'd give it a go. Brilliant bit of kit. Cleared codes and solved the problems I'm amazed how it does stuff right in front of your eyes. Its incredible. Saved me £££ that a mechanic would have charged me and I can save again when future issues come up. Glad you and Car UK show us this stuff. And pay you guys for promoting it. Win win all round. ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
@@ChopsGarage Yeah it's brilliant. I had the engine warning and airbag lights come on. Plugged it in and code for low turbo pressure and driver's seat air bag. Found a split in the intercooler pipe. Saved me loads as a garage charges £50 plus to plug in their machine. And silly amounts on top to fix it. So thank you for pointing their products our way.
Is the one you bought, the Artidiag 600s, better than the one linked to in the video description, the AL500B? I'm new to using a proper one and have tried the cheapie ones but they don't show a code for the ESP faulty that's coming up on my dashboard.
Unless you do a high milage owning a diesel makes no sense. If you just use them for short journeys your DPF will clog up you can only purge them so many times before a new one is required.
Mines on 336k. Very important to ditch the EGR and DPF to make it reliable. Combine this with a mild economy remap only 20hp and 40lbs is enough to match the extra airflow from dpf egr delete. Plus do oil and filter services early, every 10k. Gearbox oil and filter every 100k. Use decent premium fuel shell bp. It should run and run like mine for hundreds of thousands of miles.
@@paulburns3039 its quiet easy if you are just hollowing out the existing filter pipes and blanking the egr port. Must have a tunning file installed to increase fuelling a bit because air flow after derestriction is much higher and no resistance so a bit more fuel is needed to match the extra air flow or else engine runs too lean. Mine included hollowing out cat as well for €600. Much better fuel consumption afterwards and more performance if you push the pedal.
I replaced the front DPF sensor on my 2013 E250Cdi with 155k miles, then the MAF sensor failed … once this was done the car was literally transformed and drives beautifully with ample power, good economy and zero smoke.
I had the intermittent engine light and limp mode that turned out to be the DPF needing a good clean. They told me to constantly keep the fuel over a quarter of a tank. I also had the bulb warnings, that was where someone had put LED upgraded bulbs in, the sensors couldn’t pick up a current. Went back to the old style bulbs and warnings went. I love my 2010 E Class Coupe … I always had big contract hires costing £400 a month so bought this for 5k and figure every month I don’t have a problem I’m building up a decent repair fund. Lovely looking cars and great drive… plus I get 43 to the gallon… but no Satnav was a shocker.
Old IDI diesels are fine, barring the high road tax. I have a bought from new 1997 Peugeot 1.9TD with 83,000 on the clock. I recall reading of a 405 with the same engine that had over 700,000 miles on it. A mate of mine had one and lamented trading it in for a 307 HDi that was in the workshop more often than on the road. Direct injection diesels have too many sensors and filters on them to be reliable and the savings in road tax are in no way compensatory. Best regards from South Wales.
The 406 was the last good Peugeot TBH, I dream of a 2.1 Executive. The 1.9 was the best but a slug, the HDI 110 was a dream. The 1.8 petrol was a dog, and the 3.0 a rich man's globe.
@@MrSunnyBhoy I'm glad, they're nice cars, but have a bad reputation. However, maybe if used at high speed enough (110 km/h +) they're ok. They definitely go around bends nicely!!
I was fortunate to have a 6 month old 57 plate C220CDI Avantgarde for 5 weeks as a courtesy car when my Saab 9-5 Aero was involved in a RTA and needed repairing. I really liked it, as it had all the bells and whistles, but I was glad when I eventually got the Saab back, as I much preferred the Saab to drive.
Im on my 4th 1.9tdi 2 golfs and 2 A4s both golfs 200,000 ish and both A4s 250k + my current is 260 k miles, 10 k on new cambelt n pump. Remapped, pulls like a train and has only used a 1l oil top up this year, and is due nice clean oil soon. Im prepared to put this one past 300k miles. PD130 ... best engine ever 💪
I bought an E250 CDI with 305000 miles on it.... Runs sweet, i have had it 4 years and done 450000 and spent around 120 pounds in repairs in those 4 years.. Fuel filter housing and thermostat. That's it.. Much more reliable than my S213.
Differential pressure sensors are prone to failing on these cars (found by removing the ECU). Change that and put some Wynns in the DPF and you should be good to go. Seen well over 300k miles on these engines.
Hi James. Just for info the car won’t regen if it has a fault code active. If you sort the mass airflow the dpf issue will probably disappear with a good run. Oh and should have a dipstick back of the engine on the left hand side.
Yes you are right, all the things listed can happen quite soon, as a dealer a big risk. on the other hand that cars are still developed as cabs. If you repair the things as they occur, clean or change the DPF this cars can run perfectly 600.000 km and more, depending on the operating conditions. if you ran them only short trips, never getting them warm you can kill even these cars far below 100.000 km. As a dealer you have to calculate and to gamble , putting a little aside and do the work as it occurs, or repair all in advance, best use it yourself and repair as it occurs,
Bought a E320d one year ago for £1950. Very little paperwork, so had full service at specialist Mercedes dealer. Only problem was temperature unit needed replacement plus had auto box serviced. Runs like a dream and just cruised this years MOT.
James I love the Mercedes. Quick note. These cars need a regen every so often. It should do it automatically. Hence the engine management light. Keep up the good work.
I’ve had a couple of these, one from 2011 in red with the same Sport trim in an estate, but the 200 CDi manual box. Fuel consumption was amazing, well into the 60s on a long run, but the engine had all sorts of annoyances. Meanwhile, my 2008 C180K was running without any problem and was returning 42mpg on average with very sporty driving. Overall, the supercharged petrol one was a cheaper and more reliable car to run. I’ve had a 2013 E220 CDi and I hated the small Diesel engine in that, that car deserves at least the 250 engine.
I work on the 651 engines all the time. Prob got a split boost hose or inlet manifold issue. They snap studs in the head off the inlet manifold. These engines do well over 500k abused look after a fleet of 30 vehicles with that engine. Timing chain guides are an issue and can occur at 130k plus but not as common as the manifold.
Hey mate I have this car and have an air con issue. When pressed the AC light flashes 3 times but wont work. Had it regassed and the garage said the compressor etc are all good but its a controls issue. Any advice would be welcome for next steps. Or tell me to knob off and take it to a specialist 😂
I've had a few sprinters up to 2006 and all fantastic...my 2011 Vito is a complete piece of shit😂😂😂...dpf,flywheel,broken springs,electric windows,glow plug controller burnt out....unfortunately didn't burn the piece of shit to the ground...I will stop now before I start on bad language😂
You're not alone James it seems: we're suffering with a 2011 Vauxhall diesel bought recently from a dealer. In a few weeks the list is - gearbox replaced (and still having issues), lighting faults, traction control system warning lights, and this morning, just to add insult to injury, is the second day on the bounce it won't start. Rejection is on the cards for us I think.
My experience with Vauxhalls is that they arent any worse than any other car brand, but it is a mixed bag- some are bombproof and go forever, whereas some were built on a Friday afternoon and are just never right haha, I like Vauxhalls though
@@hamstirrer6882 - very true, our previous Vx has been surprisingly reliable on the minimum of maintenance over the last 17 years, so I agree it's nothing to do with the manufacturer. Buying a reliable car relies on a large dose of luck, regardless of who made it. I like Vx's too.
I’m on my second one of these. My last one had 350k on it when I sold it, it’s still running perfectly, my current one is literally the most reliable car ive ever had. I service it every 10k. Nothing else is needed except consumables. This engine is been used in aviation now for the first time using diesels due to its reliability.
Took an Astra petrol to just shy of 500k - a 1.4. Have a soft spot for older 1.4 petrols with no gubbins ever since. They seem to be the sweet spot for "What petrol car will do big miles?" Diesels will do it but there will be big bills. Economy/reliability - pick one.
2011 Passat 170 TDI 214k miles Original: DPF & EGR (never cleaned) Injectors and full fuel system Clutch and DMF Turbo and full exhaust Engine/gearbox never opened/separated. I get it from a dealers perspective - repairs are costly. All I do is wait till 80 degrees oil temp before booting, drive off boost last few miles before switch off and let it idle 20secs before I turn key off. Also I only use posh diesel. Never supermarket. Another trick to prolong DMF life is to cruise as close to 2k revs as possible, if you spend lots of time sub 1.5k revs the DMF is rattling itself to bits.
Really? All those bulb warning lights, EML, budget tyres and welded wheels says it hasn't been looked after- Just a few red flags to help with the decision making! The 2.2 cdi is a great engine if its been cared for though.
Blocked DPF is almost always a symptom of a fault and not a standalone fault. DPFs will not regen themselves on a Merc with any engine management codes, and there are many more conditions required. P0101 is a generic code. It needs to go on a decent diagnostic scanner to retrieve the manufacturer specific code which will tell you if its got a boost leak or its an actual sensor fault. The mass air flow fault 100% needs to be fixed before the DPF fault. The DPF fault has 100% been caused by the MAF fault I can promise you. If the soot accumulation goes above 200% on these they will not regen at all, it will have to be taken off and cleaned or possibly cleaned in situ by removing the upper differential pressure sensor hose. So don't keep driving it around as it will irreversibly block up very quickly
As an old pal always said to me.................IF YOU were mug enough buying it, another mug will buy it off you. He was right! and the planet has a lot more mugs now than back then, a LOT MORE!
Well maintained 220 cdi's are brilliant, reliable, cheap on fuel and comfortable. I have a 2001 estate with 400k Kms on the clock. She looks a bit rough but I love the car as it is nice to drive and never let me down. Retrofitted 15" wheels because tires are much cheaper. Another thing that can cause limp mode Is one of the vacuum lines being bad. Replaced a whole lot of stuff before we discovered that it was the cause
I have the same model on an 09 plate, its a 6 speed automatic box with a torque convertor. No DMF as its auto. Generally they are excellent cars though they switched to a single timing chain around this year.
160k miles!!, that’s just run in James. My 2.0L 2007 Ford Mondog with full service history has covered 224k miles and still pulls like a train. Still on the original clutch and exhaust.
I had a 59 plate, had 242,000 miles when I sold it. Did have a new clutch at 100,000 miles though. But still flew along even with all those miles. Never had anew exhaust either
The problems you came across reminded me of one I had on an older Honda with a 2.2l diesel engine. It dropped into “limp mode”, with the engine restricted to 2000 rpm (70 mph in that one). It was a failed temperature sensor, which the dealer replaced.
In modern systems like that, they are part of it. When they fail you need to be able to buy the replacement and fit it, once the nature of the fault is detected.@@TekAutomatica
Regrettably am in issues with a 2010 BMW 520d 106000 miles bought from a car sales garage and it's used 2 litres coolant in 3000 miles car sales said 3months engine & gearbox warranty Warning light came on 9 days before warranty expired going back to them we'll see if they fix issue
651 engine in these which are really good, it may have an outstanding recall for the airbags on it and also the rear subframes corrode from the inside out which the dealers will replace under warranty
I have a 2008 C320CDI TURBO...I LOVE IT...done 250,000ks...new turbo 5000ks ago, new ignition, DeCarb, it's dam quick. Only thing is the leather seats are not the most comfortable on long trip. Handles really good...I also have 2008 ML 350CDI AMG...new turbo, decarb, had to replace the suspension pump ...248,000ks now...had it for 5yrs now...Awesum driver.. At higher k's I find that the previous owners have spent a small fortune on problems so I get a good run out of them...
Shocking how Mercedes quality has fallen over the years. Was not long ago that major parts like suspension would never need replacing after as little as 150 miles. It's why they were used as taxis even in Beirut along with Peugeot's 505. I guess today you just buy aToyota.
So you posted a video about old diesels and gave advice about every old diesel. Are they all exactly the same? Is there not even one old petrol that is problematic so that we can say all old petrols should not be bought?
I had a lovely Subaru Legacy Tourer in silver like this Merc - great car (AWD, comfy, roomy) apart from the diesel engine.... EGR issues then the DPF went and it regen'd so often like James Bond smokescreen that other drivers would get annoyed. Was glad to get rid of the bloody thing and have never been near diesels since.
i have '12 model since new (s204 amg sports plus ) , now circa 135k miles up with 7 speed auto and i can asure you they dont have dual mass flywheels. the fault code could be dpf sensor which is cheap and easy to fix on a dyi basis.
13:17 the earth point is in the top right of the pic on the turret top, but you shouldn't be testing a battery through the wiring unless you just want to get a feel for its health. if you want an accurate reading you need to connect the tester to the battery posts.
I had a 12 plate C250 estate until recently, excellent car, really reliable, no issues, unlike the Passat I had before. You can say avoid old diesels, you have to take the cars on a case by case basis. Every courtesy car I had from the non franchise Merc specialist had between 250-340k on the clocks.
A blocked DPF is almost always a symptom of some other issue that is preventing regeneration. Clean the DPF without getting to the root cause of why it blocked in the first place and it will block up again.
Be a good effort if you get a dual mass issue on that being auto! Pretty sure at that age some of the c classes had an old school DPF so should be simple to clear out not all the newer vapouriser crap
The taxi driver I use in Maderia has a 220cdi with 1,000,000 miles on the clock. Three engines and no problems, seats are worn out bur still used by him and his brother day and night ! That 220 engine is bullet proof.
I've had my Zafira for about 7 years had had little trouble with it. I did the usual EGR Valve and DPF pressure sensor hose myself after the MOT rules changed and I wouldn't be able to get away with just clearing the check engine light! 😅 That said, it was a surprisingly easy job for a "modern" car, and it's been plain sailing ever since...
Always fix every other code before even considering touching the DPF The DPF will not regen if there are other faults present, so any soot codes are often caused by continuing to drive the car when regen is disabled
I have a 1964 Mercedes w110 200d. What's wrong with old diesels, the only problem is you have to change the oil in the engine, fuelinjection and air filter as well as grease about 27 grease nipples every 3000 miles.
These little scanners are okay for what they are but they can lead you completely down the garden path. The code shown there is generic - I just did a C250 CDI in limp mode. Same code on the little scanner I have in my tool box. When I plugged in my Autel 906Pro I could see it was a differential pressure sensor fault + ash content not okay - two codes not one and these had an extra digit. So under the 4 digit code you get on a cheapo hand-held scanner there are numerous specific codes. After I changed the sensor I did an adaptation in between driving the car in "Italian tune-up" style and it is now fine after clearing the codes.
Back in 2016 I bought a 2014 variant of the exact same model only mine was the saloon version. C220 CDI in the same colour, automatic, 2.1 litre diesel. After just 20 months it developed a boost hose leak and kept going into limp mode, the DPF kept clogging up and I ended up selling it on after I got it fixed. I now own a 6 year old 3 litre BMW 335D which now has 84k on the clock (got it at 59k) and it's much more reliable and hasn't put a foot wrong.
Can’t beat my 248k 2.0 Tdi Bluemotion VW PASSAT B7 ESTATE been reliable with nothing going wrong for the last 100k miles - when I bought it on 137k 4years ago it had a faulty clutch and EGR valve (replaced under warranty) has been perfect ever since! - I replace the oil every 9k miles myself and it’s driven long distances so helps with the DPF (never had any issues!) - ah it’s also remapped to 195bhp and 305ft/lbs torque!! (For 80k miles!)
My Seat Ibiza diesel ( VW golf engine) is 19 years old and runs lovely. 50 mpg regularly. Starts on the button every time. why change it? No dpf filter thankfully
Your correct chop in what you say about old cars. But I would go further and say people need to be realistic when buying any car. There's nothing to say that nothing will go wrong with a newer car. My last car was only 3 years old and had only 35k miles on it when I bought it from a local Peugeot garage. I only drive around 5k miles a year so thought I would have it for a good few years into the future. The next thing the dashboard started lighting up like a Christmas tree. Different warning lights in different combinations would come up at random times. So I would take it back to the Peugeot garage I bought it from and they would look at it, tinker with it, take the lights off, tell me I wasn't using it enough, then I would drive away only for it a few days later to light up again. So I got rid of it again at a loss. That's my rant on Peugeot's done. I won't have another one again after that even though that garage still sends me invites to special car sales events. In total contrast to this, one of the first cars I ever owned was an old Vauxhall Nova (maybe some people out there can still remember them), it had 95k on the clock when I bought it, I ran it for three years without spending anything beyond the usual MOT and service costs. I didn't even have to replace a tyre on it or a light bulb before I sold it for more money than what I originally bought it for. You can get a mid week built car or a Friday afternoon built car. It's the luck of the draw.
I have a c220 cdi estate from 2012, only 2 new ABS sensors, new battery and replaced oil pan/carter after 290k kilometers. Sporty for a car that drives 5l/100km and a low cost.
My 2011 c250 CDI has 182k on it, it went into limp mode with full dpf code but it was split hoses, I use a Merc specialist (not main stealer) and once he’d changed the hoses he ran the dpf regen with no issues. Looking at that list of services mine had similar suspension linkage replacements etc. I’m looking at getting 250k out of mine 👍👍🤞🤞
@@ChopsGarage thx, the interior really is like new, car drives very smooth and does 48-52mph. To get a post 2015 one that meets ULEZ needs, I’d need to spend another £12k… I’m much happier to try to get this to 200-250k 🤞
Have you tried getting cars like the Merc and Jag Terracleaned? I had my old diesel Jag done a while ago and the difference was amazing. It did a great job on the DPF too. Not exactly cheap but it really worked
2012 1.8 cdi here with 310k km. No problems. The problem are the people who buy these cars and then cant pay 500-800euros to fix it and continue driving it
Expensive electrical faults R us. At around 90'000 miles my C350CDI went into electrical meltdown with the poxiest faults causing perpetual limp-home mode. The EGR "position sensor" failed. It's a pcb the components of which are made of unobtanium and it costs £500. Then theres the MAF sensor, the Glow-plug manager and a thousand other transistors, diodes, thyristors and potentiometers to fail which all cost a fortune and need an expensive code reader to diagnose. I got fed up and got rid before the steering lock failed.
There is an additive to buy that you put in the diesel tank that will clean the particle filter. Instructions for such are often that you should gas 3000 RPM for 15 minutes. There is of course more advanced stuff to clean the Particle Felt as well
Isn't it part of the clutch? The duel mass flywheel I thought it was to reduce the clutch pressure required. The rac removed the duel mass flywheel from there transits and had a single plate instead. It had more vibration but didn't fail.
@@oceandrive7283I think you are right as the dsg bog is essentially a normal gear box just controlled electronically the clutch goes on them also. Though I'm told the early ones are the worst.
Dpf will be blocked in this. I’ve had five of the om651 engines and at around that mileage they start to back up if the coolant temp sensor starts to go and the car can’t run a regeneration. You should see codes for back pressure in the dme. Best of luck!
I purchased a “C220 FROM 2012 WITH 200K ON THE CLOCK” a lady one driver, meticulously maintained. The fuel bill is minuscule and performs better than its petrol equivalent. It reaches it top speed faster than the petrol version, with a higher top speed and on 25% less fuel, WINNER!!!!!!!!!.
Very similar with my C220 2014 with 80,000 on the clock. Works like a charm
I have the same car. So couple of points the engine will not regenerate the d.p.f if there is
1: an engine fault code present.
2: the fuel level is below 15 litres.
3: the ash content is too high.
Fix the air mass first then drive the car it will heat up the Dpf rapid you will know it’s regenerating because it will drive faster than usual and a lot of heat will be felt under the the drivers side. It will clear the Dpf in about 15 miles if in good condition. They don’t suffer from Dpf problems unless the conditions haven’t been met. Good luck
Totally agree mate 👍
Cheers bud
Im a taxi driver driving an 2018 c200d om651. The car is doing 99% city driving. Never had any issues it... Maintanance is key and premium diesel!
Dpf standard 2007 om646
I have the saloon version of this car on a 58 plate with 219K on the clock and the 6-speed manual transmission. The diesel engines are generally quite bulletproof. The intercooler hoses are prone to splitting but they're not too expensive to replace even from the dealer. It is worth running some Cataclean through the fuel system. I've done it on mine. One big issue with the W204 is corrosion on the rear subframe. Fortunately, this should be covered by warranty. I'm a Topdon fanboy myself and I would definitely recommend their products are they're good quality.
If yours is the 200cdi or 220cdi it doesn't have the dreaded dpf
If good fuel used and annual can of bg44k dpf will be fine ,it’s supermarket syrup that wreaks them
My OM646 is none the worse for supermarket fuel although Costo's offerings are preferred due to the cost. BG products are good. I think you meant BG244 because BG44K is for petrol.
Depends how hard you drive these modern diesels. Diesel is over 7 dollars a gallon in Germany so they drive very conservatively and the motors last. Older diesels lasted well. New ones far less bulletproof! Timing chains and oil leaks are a problem.
@@Parknest000😊0000000
I still miss my old Seat 1.9 TDI 110hp, in the end it was old, had a ton of miles, but the fairly simple engine was so tough. In the 15 years I had it, apart from some discs, bushes and normal servicing, it needed nothing, returned 50 to 60 mpg......it was quick enough after being chipped, utterly brilliant car !
Have my 1.9 tdi 66kw - that engine will live forever. There are good cars and bad cars. You had one of the best of the best.
1.9TDI is a very, very understressed engine which is why it lives so long.
All the 2l diesels we've had have been tough and unstressed and have covered a lot of miles with little more than fluid and filter changes@@shueibdahir
I know my 2.0 idi is at 430000km aka 267000 miles@@JoanneViner-x3t
I had a 110bhp Toledo many years back, it was much nicer than the VW equivalent Bora
P2463 is probably a result of the MAF being faulty. If the mass airflow sensor isn't reading correctly the DPF regeneration will be inhibited so it will keep accumulating soot. I'd take a gander and say that when the MAF works properly, the DPF will clear itself out during a few drive cycles.
MAF code could also be caused by a leaky boost pipe or an EGR valve that is sticking open if it's a performance code.
Will easily do 200,000 m but like all diesels needs regular long runs, no good for pottering around.
That is not a old diesel. The old ones do not have most of the emmisions control stuff that causes the problems as they get older. Indeed some people swear by older generation ones that seem to go on forever.
I have a 2006 Citroën C4 1.6l, 16 valve diesel coupé which I bought for €2800 at the beginning of last year. 240K KMs (150K miles) on the clock. Apart from a freak occurence which broke the turbo (€600 replacement), it runs like clockwork. I know it will break down one of these days but is a great drive and gives me lots of freedom. I drive carefully and get 70 MPG from it. If you look after an old car it will look after you.
Bet you can't convince Sadiq!!
Sadiq is a moron
Turbo failure is a very common problem on those 1.6 PSA diesel engines. The turbo was almost intended to be a consumable part after 200.000km, there is a strainer in the oil supply line which gets clogged and starves the turbo of oil. Fords and Volvos with this engine will suffer the same fate.
My old 2.0 diesel xsara is touching on 250k miles What's wrong with old cars lmao? 😂
You won't get that sort of milage out of todays cars, some engines fail under warranty.
The rest fall apart at 100K miles
@@Barbarapape 100% agree, wife had a 2014 peugeot 308 1.4 and the timing chain snapped at 53k miles. Destroyed the engine
Pre dpf are fine apart from egr valves but the modern shit the emissions equipment is so bad even worse on the euro 6 diesels especially jaguar land rover there dpfs are melting/cracking at low mileages so a dpf clean wont fix them
@@Barbarapape 2.0 hdi /2.0 tdci ( same engine) are amazing and last past 300 thousand miles if looked after, yeah parts will need replacing but that's maintenance..... everyone moans on about injectors and Duel mass flywheels etc yeah parts need replacing if you can afford that get the bus😂
@@ryanmccormick2150I have that engine in a 2011 mondeo . Its fast and has great mpg. Shame its euro 5 that might be it's downfall as things progress.
We had a 2 litre hdi automatic hatch back , kept it for 14 years used to cruise to south of France in it at 3,600 rpm in top = 106mph by the satnav
And 50mpg overall , truly great car
They do good MPG for sure
I my experience high mileage diesels tend to be very reliable... Assuming they arent a bad construction. My b6 passat with a 2.0pd and dsg has 205k miles on it, bough it with 163k. In 3 years never had a major issue with it. Recently rebuilt the suspension because i knew i was gonna keep the car for another 3 years at least and wanted it to ride nice, and done the dual mass as well because I was starting to hear a little rattle, was told i could've used it for at least another year but I wanted it done. Apart from that car has been absolutely trouble free, its loaded with extras and everything works. Just recently had an engine light for glow plugs, which again, just regular maintenance stuff on diesels. Not even gonna take it to the garage, they are easy to do. Many of my friends own bimmer, audi and merc diesels, they are also trouble free. If they were looked after they will outlive most cars. Its just people buy these premium cars and then not do the proper maintenance and drive them into the ground, then someone buys it without proper inspection and when the engine goes because it had bad oil in it or not changed they blame the brand and thats how the bad reputation builds.
I would say the opposite: old Diesels are less trouble than modern common rail, DPF, Ad Blue motors. Any pre Common Rail Merc Diesel is pretty bulletproof if looked after. If anyone has a nice clean late 90s E300 Turbodiesel I’ll have it off of you!
agreed, I would call an old diesel merc SLK or any pre DPF motor.
Boost leak and a DPF pressure sensor will be the problem. People over complicate DPFs you don't even need to remove them to clean them.
If the DPF is blocked, there's something preventing regeneration - possibly even just low oil quality. If you're getting MAF codes they might be the MAF or due the DPF being blocked... MAF is an easy change and then a DPF clean (not a forced regen). Then re-evaluate.
My old fiat diesel fiat stilo estate did over 300k (200k mine) miles before I retired it for an identical 19yr old replacement bought for £700. Blanked off the EGR valve, regularly clean air mass sensor, use Dipetane fuel additive to reduce particulates, 55mpg overall. Old school high mileage diesels rock !
Good move
@@ChopsGarage Your agenda is noted. you use an example of a car known to be expensive on parts and labour to make you point.
This Merc has very little in common with say a 1.5TDCi Engine vehicle at all. The only issue with Diesels is DPFs, DMFs & Pump & injectors.. Neither of which will be an issue before 90,000miles, some a lot longer than that. Diesel engines (the Actual engine and transmissions) are Very reliable. It's also a lot more financially viable to fix a Focus or a mondeo than it is a Mercedes.. & That is why you selected a Merc for this video.
Your agenda is OBVIOUS.
@GMT439 🤣🤣agenda??! Lol! What is this some conspiracy. Dramatic much? What did I have 20 part ex diesels in front of me and said, oh I must pick the merc for my agenda 🤣🤣 thanks this proper made me laugh
My 1987 W201 190D 2.5 lasted 500,000km and then I traded it in for decent money. No worries there, back in the days.
When Mercedes made decent cars. Had loads of 190's over the years
Diesel reliability does really depend on how well the vehicle has been maintained. I bought my old company car a Peugeot 405 with 120k on the clock many years ago and it had 240k when I finally sold it on. I currently have a Kia Ceed diesel with 151 k on the clock and it's still running well, Regular oil changes are crucial on diesels. I wouldn't buy a merc or any other German built car, far to complicated and therefore uneliable, and bloody expensive to repair.
agree all you need to do is change the oil for high quality oil with a good filter at least once a year or every 8000 miles or so -- my diesel is near 300,000 miles never failed a MOT and neve had to do any engine work on it (Citreon)
I agree with you but as complicated as the OM651 is, it is surprisingly reliable. Even the BMW N47 with its timing chain problems is pretty reliable but again wickedly complex.
Yeah, Q7 is one of the worst ! So complicated and blooming expensive, as you say.
Unfortunately changing the oil regularly, the air filter, brake fluid etc doesn't have any bearing on the adblue system, sensors, pump, dpf, exhaust gas recirculation system etc.
@@davidnorton5887well it does because most of those systems fail because of oil blow by caused by engine wear. Changing the oil regularly minimises engine wear and prevents those problems.
This is a lovely car with years of life left in it. There will be issues and pricing reflects this but a Mercedes CDI will probably double this mileage. Diesels can be more complicated but this car has the potential to be a reliable one and a joy to own. A DPF clean , Forte or Millers treatment, an oil change and a good run?
"Diesels can be more complicated", you say. How? FFS petrol engines are way more complicated, and likely to have even more to worry about at this mileage. Sure the diesels may have some issues, but they're not complicated at all, compared to petrol.
But inevitably they are - EGR valves, Turbo chargers, DPFs, Add Blue etc etc. Yes there are equally complicated petrol cars but similarly a basic non turbo, 16v petrol engine will be cheaper to run, more reliable particularly when driving lower mileages at lower speeds and cost less to service overall. If we dare to go back to older diesels, they are less complicated. Modern diesels are efficient, economical and are still capable of high mileages but the trade and buyers urge care. Not worth a pedantic argument really but years in the trade and in charge of fleets, points to lower overall costs with a petrol engine.. By the way all three of my cars are modern diesels. Why? I like the economy, flexibility and long distance ability. I am always weary though and therefore maintain my servicing requirements.@@An_Idiot_in_the_Wild
@@An_Idiot_in_the_WildWell for a start, all diesels are turbocharged where some petrols are not. Diesels have dpf and cats whereas petrol will have only cats. Diesels have two fuel pumps. They have egr flaps which petrols dont, they have intake swirl flaps which some petrols dont have. Some petrol engines are complicated but diesels are almost always more complicated
Plus good diesel mechanics are thin on the ground, and will charge accordingly.
Very sweeping staement.My older diesel has neither turbo,dpf,or egr.,and it's totally reliable.
I just bought the Topdon Artidiag 600s.
You and Car UK have pipped on about their products so much I thought I'd give it a go.
Brilliant bit of kit.
Cleared codes and solved the problems
I'm amazed how it does stuff right in front of your eyes.
Its incredible.
Saved me £££ that a mechanic would have charged me and I can save again when future issues come up.
Glad you and Car UK show us this stuff.
And pay you guys for promoting it.
Win win all round.
⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Great stuff. Good kit isn't it! I dint take payment from them BTW. They instead support the raffles with kit.
@@ChopsGarage Yeah it's brilliant.
I had the engine warning and airbag lights come on.
Plugged it in and code for low turbo pressure and driver's seat air bag.
Found a split in the intercooler pipe.
Saved me loads as a garage charges £50 plus to plug in their machine.
And silly amounts on top to fix it.
So thank you for pointing their products our way.
Is the one you bought, the Artidiag 600s, better than the one linked to in the video description, the AL500B?
I'm new to using a proper one and have tried the cheapie ones but they don't show a code for the ESP faulty that's coming up on my dashboard.
Unless you do a high milage owning a diesel makes no sense.
If you just use them for short journeys your DPF will clog up
you can only purge them so many times before a new one is required.
As long as the ash level isn't full you can clean them and tell the ECU it has been replaced.
Mines on 336k. Very important to ditch the EGR and DPF to make it reliable. Combine this with a mild economy remap only 20hp and 40lbs is enough to match the extra airflow from dpf egr delete. Plus do oil and filter services early, every 10k. Gearbox oil and filter every 100k. Use decent premium fuel shell bp. It should run and run like mine for hundreds of thousands of miles.
Is it much of a job to ditch the EGR and DPF ?
@@paulburns3039 its quiet easy if you are just hollowing out the existing filter pipes and blanking the egr port. Must have a tunning file installed to increase fuelling a bit because air flow after derestriction is much higher and no resistance so a bit more fuel is needed to match the extra air flow or else engine runs too lean. Mine included hollowing out cat as well for €600. Much better fuel consumption afterwards and more performance if you push the pedal.
@@hungrysurfer9471 thanks for explaining!
I replaced the front DPF sensor on my 2013 E250Cdi with 155k miles, then the MAF sensor failed … once this was done the car was literally transformed and drives beautifully with ample power, good economy and zero smoke.
I had the intermittent engine light and limp mode that turned out to be the DPF needing a good clean. They told me to constantly keep the fuel over a quarter of a tank. I also had the bulb warnings, that was where someone had put LED upgraded bulbs in, the sensors couldn’t pick up a current. Went back to the old style bulbs and warnings went. I love my 2010 E Class Coupe … I always had big contract hires costing £400 a month so bought this for 5k and figure every month I don’t have a problem I’m building up a decent repair fund. Lovely looking cars and great drive… plus I get 43 to the gallon… but no Satnav was a shocker.
Exactly! If people spent what they pay on finance on a new car on maintaining their old one, they’d have a brand new feeling car in a year.
Old IDI diesels are fine, barring the high road tax. I have a bought from new 1997 Peugeot 1.9TD with 83,000 on the clock. I recall reading of a 405 with the same engine that had over 700,000 miles on it. A mate of mine had one and lamented trading it in for a 307 HDi that was in the workshop more often than on the road. Direct injection diesels have too many sensors and filters on them to be reliable and the savings in road tax are in no way compensatory.
Best regards from South Wales.
The 406 was the last good Peugeot TBH, I dream of a 2.1 Executive. The 1.9 was the best but a slug, the HDI 110 was a dream. The 1.8 petrol was a dog, and the 3.0 a rich man's globe.
my parents still have a 2008 408 sw diesel, on 120k miles and never broke down. ppl get in it and remark how smooth and quiet it is!
@@MrSunnyBhoy I'm glad, they're nice cars, but have a bad reputation. However, maybe if used at high speed enough (110 km/h +) they're ok. They definitely go around bends nicely!!
I was fortunate to have a 6 month old 57 plate C220CDI Avantgarde for 5 weeks as a courtesy car when my Saab 9-5 Aero was involved in a RTA and needed repairing. I really liked it, as it had all the bells and whistles, but I was glad when I eventually got the Saab back, as I much preferred the Saab to drive.
how do you remember a hire car form 16 years ago lol
Im on my 4th 1.9tdi
2 golfs and 2 A4s both golfs 200,000 ish and both A4s 250k + my current is 260 k miles, 10 k on new cambelt n pump. Remapped, pulls like a train and has only used a 1l oil top up this year, and is due nice clean oil soon. Im prepared to put this one past 300k miles. PD130 ... best engine ever 💪
I bought an E250 CDI with 305000 miles on it.... Runs sweet, i have had it 4 years and done 450000 and spent around 120 pounds in repairs in those 4 years.. Fuel filter housing and thermostat. That's it.. Much more reliable than my S213.
Auto or manual?
Differential pressure sensors are prone to failing on these cars (found by removing the ECU).
Change that and put some Wynns in the DPF and you should be good to go.
Seen well over 300k miles on these engines.
Hi James. Just for info the car won’t regen if it has a fault code active. If you sort the mass airflow the dpf issue will probably disappear with a good run. Oh and should have a dipstick back of the engine on the left hand side.
Yep same applies to all DPF diesels. You can also force a regen with most decent diagnostic tools after the fault has been sorted.
Generally speaking the dipstick is behind the steering wheel.!!!
Yes you are right, all the things listed can happen quite soon, as a dealer a big risk. on the other hand that cars are still developed as cabs. If you repair the things as they occur, clean or change the DPF this cars can run perfectly 600.000 km and more, depending on the operating conditions. if you ran them only short trips, never getting them warm you can kill even these cars far below 100.000 km. As a dealer you have to calculate and to gamble , putting a little aside and do the work as it occurs, or repair all in advance, best use it yourself and repair as it occurs,
Bought a E320d one year ago for £1950. Very little paperwork, so had full service at specialist Mercedes dealer. Only problem was temperature unit needed replacement plus had auto box serviced. Runs like a dream and just cruised this years MOT.
James I love the Mercedes. Quick note. These cars need a regen every so often. It should do it automatically. Hence the engine management light. Keep up the good work.
I’ve had a couple of these, one from 2011 in red with the same Sport trim in an estate, but the 200 CDi manual box. Fuel consumption was amazing, well into the 60s on a long run, but the engine had all sorts of annoyances. Meanwhile, my 2008 C180K was running without any problem and was returning 42mpg on average with very sporty driving. Overall, the supercharged petrol one was a cheaper and more reliable car to run. I’ve had a 2013 E220 CDi and I hated the small Diesel engine in that, that car deserves at least the 250 engine.
The 250 and the 220 is the same engine in the w212
@@Spooky4815 I know, I meant to refer to the extra power output. The 250 in that car would match my old W211 E320 CDI’s output from six cylinder.
Just had my 06 BMW 116i MOT’d today. No advisories. Keep old cars alive people.
I work on the 651 engines all the time. Prob got a split boost hose or inlet manifold issue. They snap studs in the head off the inlet manifold. These engines do well over 500k abused look after a fleet of 30 vehicles with that engine. Timing chain guides are an issue and can occur at 130k plus but not as common as the manifold.
I'm hearing good things re this engine
So you would recommend that engine? Any others you recommend?
Hey mate I have this car and have an air con issue. When pressed the AC light flashes 3 times but wont work. Had it regassed and the garage said the compressor etc are all good but its a controls issue. Any advice would be welcome for next steps. Or tell me to knob off and take it to a specialist 😂
I've had a few sprinters up to 2006 and all fantastic...my 2011 Vito is a complete piece of shit😂😂😂...dpf,flywheel,broken springs,electric windows,glow plug controller burnt out....unfortunately didn't burn the piece of shit to the ground...I will stop now before I start on bad language😂
Keep lubed and ....Tap the stud before you turn
You're not alone James it seems: we're suffering with a 2011 Vauxhall diesel bought recently from a dealer. In a few weeks the list is - gearbox replaced (and still having issues), lighting faults, traction control system warning lights, and this morning, just to add insult to injury, is the second day on the bounce it won't start. Rejection is on the cards for us I think.
That's because it's a vauxhall, nothing to do with it being a diesel. 😜
I agree with guy above. Vauxhall so your issue there 😂
My experience with Vauxhalls is that they arent any worse than any other car brand, but it is a mixed bag- some are bombproof and go forever, whereas some were built on a Friday afternoon and are just never right haha, I like Vauxhalls though
So mostly nothing to do with the actual diesel engine.
Sounds more like dodgy gearbox and needs new battery/alternator.
@@hamstirrer6882 - very true, our previous Vx has been surprisingly reliable on the minimum of maintenance over the last 17 years, so I agree it's nothing to do with the manufacturer. Buying a reliable car relies on a large dose of luck, regardless of who made it. I like Vx's too.
I’m on my second one of these. My last one had 350k on it when I sold it, it’s still running perfectly, my current one is literally the most reliable car ive ever had. I service it every 10k. Nothing else is needed except consumables. This engine is been used in aviation now for the first time using diesels due to its reliability.
What year please ? Interested in getting one
Also do you know the engine code ?
@@BruceLethal 2014. Keep it serviced and replace any wear items like bushing and ball joints and you’ll have many years of reliable driving
Check the intercooler pipe at the bottom of the engine for any holes or splits as well as that can cause massive issues
Took an Astra petrol to just shy of 500k - a 1.4. Have a soft spot for older 1.4 petrols with no gubbins ever since. They seem to be the sweet spot for "What petrol car will do big miles?" Diesels will do it but there will be big bills. Economy/reliability - pick one.
2011 Passat 170 TDI 214k miles Original:
DPF & EGR (never cleaned)
Injectors and full fuel system
Clutch and DMF
Turbo and full exhaust
Engine/gearbox never opened/separated.
I get it from a dealers perspective - repairs are costly.
All I do is wait till 80 degrees oil temp before booting, drive off boost last few miles before switch off and let it idle 20secs before I turn key off. Also I only use posh diesel. Never supermarket.
Another trick to prolong DMF life is to cruise as close to 2k revs as possible, if you spend lots of time sub 1.5k revs the DMF is rattling itself to bits.
Really? All those bulb warning lights, EML, budget tyres and welded wheels says it hasn't been looked after- Just a few red flags to help with the decision making! The 2.2 cdi is a great engine if its been cared for though.
If you have the right code reader, you can force a manual DPF regeneration
Don't buy badly built old diesels, should be the title. I have 3 all on over 400k , my rocky is on 700k and 34 years old
People don't like paying a premium for low mileage because often when trading in said low mileage car, it doesn't attract a premium.
Blocked DPF is almost always a symptom of a fault and not a standalone fault.
DPFs will not regen themselves on a Merc with any engine management codes, and there are many more conditions required.
P0101 is a generic code. It needs to go on a decent diagnostic scanner to retrieve the manufacturer specific code which will tell you if its got a boost leak or its an actual sensor fault.
The mass air flow fault 100% needs to be fixed before the DPF fault.
The DPF fault has 100% been caused by the MAF fault I can promise you.
If the soot accumulation goes above 200% on these they will not regen at all, it will have to be taken off and cleaned or possibly cleaned in situ by removing the upper differential pressure sensor hose. So don't keep driving it around as it will irreversibly block up very quickly
Just found your channel today . Easy best car reviewer on the TH-cam. No one reviews like a normal person and you did. Your newest fan 😂
Blimey, too kind
As an old pal always said to me.................IF YOU were mug enough buying it, another mug will buy it off you.
He was right! and the planet has a lot more mugs now than back then, a LOT MORE!
A car like this can be a lovely car for the money, or a massive hole in your wallet. It's a gamble.
Price is crucial here.
TBH this is the last C before they got Adblue and became troublesome
No dual mass flywheels on torque convertor type automatics. The shock absorbing function is done by the torque convertor slip instead.
Nothing wrong with these old Mercedes better than the latest one for that mileage is nothing 😅
I rented a Mercedes C220 Sedan in Barcelona in 2010. It was a pretty good car and looked absolute dependable when new.
Well maintained 220 cdi's are brilliant, reliable, cheap on fuel and comfortable.
I have a 2001 estate with 400k Kms on the clock. She looks a bit rough but I love the car as it is nice to drive and never let me down. Retrofitted 15" wheels because tires are much cheaper.
Another thing that can cause limp mode Is one of the vacuum lines being bad. Replaced a whole lot of stuff before we discovered that it was the cause
I have the same model on an 09 plate, its a 6 speed automatic box with a torque convertor. No DMF as its auto. Generally they are excellent cars though they switched to a single timing chain around this year.
if it's had a Mercedes service after 100K miles then there should have been a timing chain inspection.
There was no 6 speed torque converter automatic on any Mercedes ever
160k miles!!, that’s just run in James. My 2.0L 2007 Ford Mondog with full service history has covered 224k miles and still pulls like a train. Still on the original clutch and exhaust.
The 2.0 tdci/ 2.0 hdi same engine is the best Diesel going 💪
Does this engine have a Dpf ?
@@boyasaka yes.
I had a 59 plate, had 242,000 miles when I sold it. Did have a new clutch at 100,000 miles though. But still flew along even with all those miles. Never had anew exhaust either
The problems you came across reminded me of one I had on an older Honda with a 2.2l diesel engine. It dropped into “limp mode”, with the engine restricted to 2000 rpm (70 mph in that one). It was a failed temperature sensor, which the dealer replaced.
Electronic sensors not fundamentally diesel mechanics
In modern systems like that, they are part of it. When they fail you need to be able to buy the replacement and fit it, once the nature of the fault is detected.@@TekAutomatica
1.9 tdi Pd engine in my Passat is still going strong 312k. Best diesel ive opened
Regrettably am in issues with a 2010 BMW 520d 106000 miles bought from a car sales garage and it's used 2 litres coolant in 3000 miles car sales said 3months engine & gearbox warranty Warning light came on 9 days before warranty expired going back to them we'll see if they fix issue
good luck. I hope they accept it and that you dodge the bullet. Sell it and get something simple.
651 engine in these which are really good, it may have an outstanding recall for the airbags on it and also the rear subframes corrode from the inside out which the dealers will replace under warranty
@@Leslie_Horwinkle no they definitely will do them, they need to be inspected 1st but if found to be corroded they will replace
@@Leslie_Horwinkle uk merc dealers ARE replacing rusted rear sub frames under warranty.
I have a 2008 C320CDI TURBO...I LOVE IT...done 250,000ks...new turbo 5000ks ago, new ignition, DeCarb, it's dam quick. Only thing is the leather seats are not the most comfortable on long trip. Handles really good...I also have 2008 ML 350CDI AMG...new turbo, decarb, had to replace the suspension pump ...248,000ks now...had it for 5yrs now...Awesum driver..
At higher k's I find that the previous owners have spent a small fortune on problems so I get a good run out of them...
Shocking how Mercedes quality has fallen over the years. Was not long ago that major parts like suspension would never need replacing after as little as 150 miles.
It's why they were used as taxis even in Beirut along with Peugeot's 505.
I guess today you just buy aToyota.
So you posted a video about old diesels and gave advice about every old diesel. Are they all exactly the same? Is there not even one old petrol that is problematic so that we can say all old petrols should not be bought?
"let's replace the cheap and simple oil dipstick with electronic sensors.....what could possibly go wrong?"
Exactly lol
My 2011 220 CDI has a dip stick.
I had a lovely Subaru Legacy Tourer in silver like this Merc - great car (AWD, comfy, roomy) apart from the diesel engine.... EGR issues then the DPF went and it regen'd so often like James Bond smokescreen that other drivers would get annoyed. Was glad to get rid of the bloody thing and have never been near diesels since.
Your problem was that you bought a Subaru diesel.
They have never been able to build a good diesel engine.
Auto does not have a dual mass flywheel,it has a fluid torque converter,looks like a decent motor
Guy above said merc never made autos with torque convertor.
Own mk4 mondeo 2011 156 k drives great just had cambelt kit and alternator bearing fitted.plenty of oil changes.
Guy I work with has a 2012 Merc E220 diesel and it’s done 438k miles, it was used as an airport taxi from new
i have '12 model since new (s204 amg sports plus ) , now circa 135k miles up with 7 speed auto and i can asure you they dont have dual mass flywheels. the fault code could be dpf sensor which is cheap and easy to fix on a dyi basis.
Airport company near me runs base model diesel E Classes some of them have over 600k on the clock, Maintenance is absolutely everything.
13:17 the earth point is in the top right of the pic on the turret top, but you shouldn't be testing a battery through the wiring unless you just want to get a feel for its health. if you want an accurate reading you need to connect the tester to the battery posts.
I had a 12 plate C250 estate until recently, excellent car, really reliable, no issues, unlike the Passat I had before. You can say avoid old diesels, you have to take the cars on a case by case basis. Every courtesy car I had from the non franchise Merc specialist had between 250-340k on the clocks.
I’ve just come back off holiday in Crete
I used 4 taxis
All Mercedes and all had over 500 km miles on clock
And we’re still silky smooth
So they should having done only 300 miles
Guy at work has a 2011 c220 with 110k miles. He said he's never had a significant problem. They look pretty good for their age.
A blocked DPF is almost always a symptom of some other issue that is preventing regeneration. Clean the DPF without getting to the root cause of why it blocked in the first place and it will block up again.
All the bits you just mentioned are Fairly cheap if you go to the right places and nothing wrong with a Diesel with that mileage on it
Be a good effort if you get a dual mass issue on that being auto! Pretty sure at that age some of the c classes had an old school DPF so should be simple to clear out not all the newer vapouriser crap
Fingers crossed
The taxi driver I use in Maderia has a 220cdi with 1,000,000 miles on the clock. Three engines and no problems, seats are worn out bur still used by him and his brother day and night ! That 220 engine is bullet proof.
Oil dipstick is to the rear of the engine near the bulkhead.
Check the boostpipe. It will throw a DPF code and a mass airflow code
I've had my Zafira for about 7 years had had little trouble with it. I did the usual EGR Valve and DPF pressure sensor hose myself after the MOT rules changed and I wouldn't be able to get away with just clearing the check engine light! 😅 That said, it was a surprisingly easy job for a "modern" car, and it's been plain sailing ever since...
Always fix every other code before even considering touching the DPF
The DPF will not regen if there are other faults present, so any soot codes are often caused by continuing to drive the car when regen is disabled
cheers yes learned this
I have a 1964 Mercedes w110 200d. What's wrong with old diesels, the only problem is you have to change the oil in the engine, fuelinjection and air filter as well as grease about 27 grease nipples every 3000 miles.
These little scanners are okay for what they are but they can lead you completely down the garden path. The code shown there is generic - I just did a C250 CDI in limp mode. Same code on the little scanner I have in my tool box. When I plugged in my Autel 906Pro I could see it was a differential pressure sensor fault + ash content not okay - two codes not one and these had an extra digit. So under the 4 digit code you get on a cheapo hand-held scanner there are numerous specific codes. After I changed the sensor I did an adaptation in between driving the car in "Italian tune-up" style and it is now fine after clearing the codes.
Back in 2016 I bought a 2014 variant of the exact same model only mine was the saloon version. C220 CDI in the same colour, automatic, 2.1 litre diesel.
After just 20 months it developed a boost hose leak and kept going into limp mode, the DPF kept clogging up and I ended up selling it on after I got it fixed. I now own a 6 year old 3 litre BMW 335D which now has 84k on the clock (got it at 59k) and it's much more reliable and hasn't put a foot wrong.
Can’t beat my 248k 2.0 Tdi Bluemotion VW PASSAT B7 ESTATE
been reliable with nothing going wrong for the last 100k miles - when I bought it on 137k 4years ago it had a faulty clutch and EGR valve (replaced under warranty) has been perfect ever since! - I replace the oil every 9k miles myself and it’s driven long distances so helps with the DPF (never had any issues!) - ah it’s also remapped to 195bhp and 305ft/lbs torque!! (For 80k miles!)
Engines with DPF are not old diesels !
really old school diesels are usually bulletproof
My Seat Ibiza diesel ( VW golf engine) is 19 years old and runs lovely. 50 mpg regularly. Starts on the button every time. why change it? No dpf filter thankfully
Your correct chop in what you say about old cars. But I would go further and say people need to be realistic when buying any car. There's nothing to say that nothing will go wrong with a newer car.
My last car was only 3 years old and had only 35k miles on it when I bought it from a local Peugeot garage. I only drive around 5k miles a year so thought I would have it for a good few years into the future. The next thing the dashboard started lighting up like a Christmas tree. Different warning lights in different combinations would come up at random times. So I would take it back to the Peugeot garage I bought it from and they would look at it, tinker with it, take the lights off, tell me I wasn't using it enough, then I would drive away only for it a few days later to light up again. So I got rid of it again at a loss.
That's my rant on Peugeot's done. I won't have another one again after that even though that garage still sends me invites to special car sales events.
In total contrast to this, one of the first cars I ever owned was an old Vauxhall Nova (maybe some people out there can still remember them), it had 95k on the clock when I bought it, I ran it for three years without spending anything beyond the usual MOT and service costs. I didn't even have to replace a tyre on it or a light bulb before I sold it for more money than what I originally bought it for.
You can get a mid week built car or a Friday afternoon built car. It's the luck of the draw.
I have a c220 cdi estate from 2012, only 2 new ABS sensors, new battery and replaced oil pan/carter after 290k kilometers. Sporty for a car that drives 5l/100km and a low cost.
My 2011 c250 CDI has 182k on it, it went into limp mode with full dpf code but it was split hoses, I use a Merc specialist (not main stealer) and once he’d changed the hoses he ran the dpf regen with no issues. Looking at that list of services mine had similar suspension linkage replacements etc. I’m looking at getting 250k out of mine 👍👍🤞🤞
Good on you , I love a high miler
@@ChopsGarage thx, the interior really is like new, car drives very smooth and does 48-52mph. To get a post 2015 one that meets ULEZ needs, I’d need to spend another £12k… I’m much happier to try to get this to 200-250k 🤞
Have you tried getting cars like the Merc and Jag Terracleaned? I had my old diesel Jag done a while ago and the difference was amazing. It did a great job on the DPF too. Not exactly cheap but it really worked
RE : Mercedes battery test and jump start. The battery earth (ground) is a brass pin located near the front wing (fender) on the battery side.
I may be wrong! A torque converter gearbox doesn't have a DMF. Only required on Manual or DSG.
i have a Mercedes c200 cdi with 395.000km and works great, i think the guy making the video is not a very good mechanic
2012 1.8 cdi here with 310k km. No problems. The problem are the people who buy these cars and then cant pay 500-800euros to fix it and continue driving it
Expensive electrical faults R us. At around 90'000 miles my C350CDI went into electrical meltdown with the poxiest faults causing perpetual limp-home mode. The EGR "position sensor" failed. It's a pcb the components of which are made of unobtanium and it costs £500. Then theres the MAF sensor, the Glow-plug manager and a thousand other transistors, diodes, thyristors and potentiometers to fail which all cost a fortune and need an expensive code reader to diagnose. I got fed up and got rid before the steering lock failed.
That fault code could be a boost leak causing that code and also to do a battery reset you need to be on the terminals
I bought a 61 plate Volvo XC60 D5 AWD SE Lux with 153,000 on it for £5k with FSH in January and been really happy with it.
High mileage is not a death warranty that people think it is
There is an additive to buy that you put in the diesel tank that will clean the particle filter. Instructions for such are often that you should gas 3000 RPM for 15 minutes. There is of course more advanced stuff to clean the Particle Felt as well
Surely, being an auto, it wouldn't have a dual mass fly wheel?
Why not?
Isn't it part of the clutch? The duel mass flywheel I thought it was to reduce the clutch pressure required. The rac removed the duel mass flywheel from there transits and had a single plate instead. It had more vibration but didn't fail.
I belive these are torque converter boxes do shouldn't have a DMF
The twin clutch DSG boxes do have DMF.
@@oceandrive7283I think you are right as the dsg bog is essentially a normal gear box just controlled electronically the clutch goes on them also. Though I'm told the early ones are the worst.
No dual mass on that one James
My Kia diesel seems to like a tank of BP Ultimate diesel every few months, seems to help keep the DPF demons away.
Dpf will be blocked in this. I’ve had five of the om651 engines and at around that mileage they start to back up if the coolant temp sensor starts to go and the car can’t run a regeneration. You should see codes for back pressure in the dme. Best of luck!