Working as a automotive mechanical engineer for more than forty years, it is always a pleasing, refreshing change to watch a fellow craftsman honour the German engineers who created these mechanical marvels by taking the time to rebuild these finely engineered pieces of "engineering art" properly. Cheers from Australia Well done. Glenn, DownUnder.
Thank you! Really appreciate your kind words. I am really passionate about everythink mechanical. Its not work for me, just fun! Greetings to down under(never been there, would love to go!)
Thanks for your video's Bruno, love these engines and I have learned such a lot from you. Just working on my 1998 w210 estate om606 superturbo and although have not had to teardown the engine would have ago after watching you, given me a lot of confidence and enthusiasm 😊
you're welcome. I try to do these to help people in their projects. 25 years ago none of this stuff was available anywhere, had to learn the hard way. These days with the proper amount of dedication you can even build a rocket ship just from watching stuff online:)
Just found your channel, I appreciate you putting this out there! I'm definitely going to use your content as a resource. Just so you know, your TDC procedure is incorrect. Check the service manual. Find piston max height, zero the gauge, rotate clockwise until you get to 3.23mm down the bore. That is 20° ATDC. For the 604 its a different value down the bore. This is because the crank is not on the centerline of the bore. Piston max height is not crank TDC. So you measurement is off by about a degree... Not the end of the world, the engine will still run. Just thought you should know. No hate, I appreciate what you're doing 🙏
thank you. Will dig into it but i find the information slightly confusing. You have markings on the crank pulley which says OT which is german for TDC. I always check the markings on any engine with a dial gauge just to be sure. Not the first time i encountered funny crank pulleys. Markings on the crank pulley overlap with the dial gauge. Its's obviously not the first engine i've done with the 606, all of them run great. But i am always learning so will get back to this. Thank you for watching
@@heritagesteel1976 yeah, honestly I don't think it's a big deal. You end up with OT mark being off by about 3/4 of a degree. Doesn't really mess anything up. This happens because maximum piston height is not crank OT. You definitely definitely know more about these than I do. I'm hesitant to rebuild mine, but I have a spare that I'm going to rebuild for my W124. I'm also going to pin my cam and crank because I'm shooting for 500 horse 😁
Thank you for the video! What brand name of sealant (xxxx-4000) for the timing cover are for head gasket? How many dowel pins to locate the head gasket? Why you didn’t use sealant for the entire head gasket?
Big help my om606 has 400k+ miles on it runs great but i want to rebuild it with all new performance goodies top to bottom so this will help me when i have all the parts for it and my two turbos rebuilt
Fantastic content for an OM60x fanatic like myself. I always remove the EGR in my cars but what is your take on re routing the CCV into an oil catch can or venting it do the atmosphere to clean up the intake (what the DPUK guy seems to be doing)? My intake in an oily mess like all turbo diesel engines. Removing the EGR reduced the amount of crud for sure but is there anything to gain by modifying the CCV system? I've also heard that valve recession can happen over time if there's no oil mist. I am also pretty sure that the slight amount of vacuum created by the turbo helps keeping the pressure low in the crankcase which limits oil leaks. Second question, is there anything to gain from using anything else than a 229.1 15W40 changed at 5000 to 7000 km interval in my high mileage OM605 turbo? Thanks!
Thank you! Yeah EGR removal is a big plus on any engine. I would leave the CCV alone. If the engine is tight, i.e not worn the blow by is negletible and it will burn those fumes with no issue. Americans are big fans of oil catch cans i am not. Its a mess. My own running W210 has a clean intake with the CCV attached. Regarding oils...these engines will take anything. It is really up to your personal preference. I run mine with 10W40 semi synmthetic Castrol oil. You can use fully synthetic of course. Whatever keeps oil consumption at minimum
@@heritagesteel1976Thanks! My engine has some blowby, there's a heavy oil mist when i remove the cap, however, not enough to make it dance. Oil consumption is not bad, i think a little over half a litre over 5000 km. I'll try a synthetic to see if it can loosen up the rings and cure some of the blowby.
Hello, thanks for the great video. One question - are there any implications to zinc plating the precombustion chambers? just wondering if you have had any issues down the line as they are made of a very specific alloy (Nimonic 80A). thanks
hi, never had an issue with zinc plating the pre chambers. But being alloy the zinc wouldn't stick. I'm not arguing whether they are made of steel or not as I do not know but never had an issue. I think the only part which is not steel on those is the "ball" where the spray of the injector fires upon. That never holds the zinc so I guess you're right. But the body is steel. On bad injectors theses spray balls sometimes melt away or break away, not uncommon
Howdy Bruno! Thank you for creating and sharing such an in depth video! Any chance you know the torque specs for the valve cover (rocker cover) and if there is a sequence or pattern to torque the bolts down? I've searched high and low for a repair manual online and on forums, but haven't had any luck. For other vehicles I've owned and worked on over the years I've been able to find PDFs or buy a repair manual. I've had no luck finding one for the W210 E-Class. I have a 1999 E300D TurboDiesel OM606.962.ERE.
Thank you for taking the time to watch! By hard i dont know the torque figures, but 12-15 Nm in a diagonal cross pattern you are on the safe side. Important is use a good quality gasket from Elring, better still an original one
@@heritagesteel1976 @Cappy-bf5rz Thank you both for the reply and input! I ended up tackling this before y'all had a chance to reply, so I erred on the side of caution and torqued the VC bolts to 10Nm in kind of an alternating star pattern. At the time of my initial question, I didn't realize that the valve cover bottoms out or sits flush against the head. It's not floating on the gasket, so it's understandable that a torque spec may not be specified by the factory. Just getting it hand tight should suffice. No need to over tighten as once the valve cover is bottomed out against the head, no matter how much you tighten, it's not going to squeeze the gasket more. One would only be risking stripping out threads at that point. I used a FelPro gasket which I've had good luck with on other makes in the past. No leaks so far!
hi, i was born in Germany and lived there for many years. Have been living in Portugal for 30 years now. Send me an email if you like and we'll talk, in german also if you prefer: heritage.steel1976@gmail.com
Not easy, and bloody expensive. OEM are MAHLE forged pistons. So if you are looking for STD pistons probably makes sense buy a running engine and use the pistons. If the bores are gone i wouldnt sleeve the block back to STD. The nyou really need to buy oversized pistons, they cost like 500 EUR a piece from AUTODOC or similar. Mercedes still sells them but i reckon they would cost an arm and a leg
I was wondering if people could help me, I have a 1998 G wagon with an om606 engine but I wanted to get more power somewhere 220-250 PH how is this work possible, Should I change the electronic IP with a mechanical IP, what changes should I make in the engine since I am a beginner. Thanks for understanding guys
you can chip the ECU if its a stock engine. DIESEL PUMP UK makes some some good remapping. Mechanical IP for way more horse power, bigger turbos etc. Got to be careful with the autobox though...
@@heritagesteel1976 Can I add to increase the PS in the computer, even change the turbine plus add an intercooler, if I do all this how much horse power can be increased!
cool movie. I'm assembling the engine for the first time and thanks to you I managed to do everything right! Thank you
well great to hear. glad I was of some help
Working as a automotive mechanical engineer for more than forty years, it is always a pleasing, refreshing change to watch a fellow craftsman honour the German engineers who created these mechanical marvels by taking the time to rebuild these finely engineered pieces of "engineering art" properly.
Cheers from Australia Well done.
Glenn, DownUnder.
Thank you! Really appreciate your kind words. I am really passionate about everythink mechanical. Its not work for me, just fun!
Greetings to down under(never been there, would love to go!)
Bruno is 100% correct about the exhaust manifold turning into a banana!
Hello
It's very easy to understand you how to build the engine.well done
🖐️ From Kyrgyzstan
Excellent video!!! I can't find the manual anywhere in the USA, I just want the torque specs.
Nice bro
You are the best
This is my car dream
I like this video
Thanks for your video's Bruno, love these engines and I have learned such a lot from you. Just working on my 1998 w210 estate om606 superturbo and although have not had to teardown the engine would have ago after watching you, given me a lot of confidence and enthusiasm 😊
you're welcome. I try to do these to help people in their projects. 25 years ago none of this stuff was available anywhere, had to learn the hard way. These days with the proper amount of dedication you can even build a rocket ship just from watching stuff online:)
Show me the video of how you connected the tubes from 6 nozzles to the equipment 5 plunger
😊
Congrats for the great content! Could you share the Link for the "Pump Basket"? Thanks in advance.
Just found your channel, I appreciate you putting this out there! I'm definitely going to use your content as a resource.
Just so you know, your TDC procedure is incorrect. Check the service manual. Find piston max height, zero the gauge, rotate clockwise until you get to 3.23mm down the bore. That is 20° ATDC. For the 604 its a different value down the bore. This is because the crank is not on the centerline of the bore. Piston max height is not crank TDC. So you measurement is off by about a degree... Not the end of the world, the engine will still run. Just thought you should know. No hate, I appreciate what you're doing 🙏
thank you. Will dig into it but i find the information slightly confusing. You have markings on the crank pulley which says OT which is german for TDC. I always check the markings on any engine with a dial gauge just to be sure. Not the first time i encountered funny crank pulleys. Markings on the crank pulley overlap with the dial gauge.
Its's obviously not the first engine i've done with the 606, all of them run great. But i am always learning so will get back to this. Thank you for watching
@@heritagesteel1976 yeah, honestly I don't think it's a big deal. You end up with OT mark being off by about 3/4 of a degree. Doesn't really mess anything up. This happens because maximum piston height is not crank OT.
You definitely definitely know more about these than I do. I'm hesitant to rebuild mine, but I have a spare that I'm going to rebuild for my W124. I'm also going to pin my cam and crank because I'm shooting for 500 horse 😁
Gday. Great videos for someone currently rebuilding one of these! This magic o-ring you speak of for vac pump - can I buy one off of you?
Thank you for the video! What brand name of sealant (xxxx-4000) for the timing cover are for head gasket? How many dowel pins to locate the head gasket? Why you didn’t use sealant for the entire head gasket?
Big help my om606 has 400k+ miles on it runs great but i want to rebuild it with all new performance goodies top to bottom so this will help me when i have all the parts for it and my two turbos rebuilt
Fantastic content for an OM60x fanatic like myself.
I always remove the EGR in my cars but what is your take on re routing the CCV into an oil catch can or venting it do the atmosphere to clean up the intake (what the DPUK guy seems to be doing)? My intake in an oily mess like all turbo diesel engines. Removing the EGR reduced the amount of crud for sure but is there anything to gain by modifying the CCV system? I've also heard that valve recession can happen over time if there's no oil mist. I am also pretty sure that the slight amount of vacuum created by the turbo helps keeping the pressure low in the crankcase which limits oil leaks.
Second question, is there anything to gain from using anything else than a 229.1 15W40 changed at 5000 to 7000 km interval in my high mileage OM605 turbo? Thanks!
Thank you! Yeah EGR removal is a big plus on any engine. I would leave the CCV alone. If the engine is tight, i.e not worn the blow by is negletible and it will burn those fumes with no issue. Americans are big fans of oil catch cans i am not. Its a mess. My own running W210 has a clean intake with the CCV attached.
Regarding oils...these engines will take anything. It is really up to your personal preference. I run mine with 10W40 semi synmthetic Castrol oil. You can use fully synthetic of course. Whatever keeps oil consumption at minimum
@@heritagesteel1976Thanks! My engine has some blowby, there's a heavy oil mist when i remove the cap, however, not enough to make it dance. Oil consumption is not bad, i think a little over half a litre over 5000 km. I'll try a synthetic to see if it can loosen up the rings and cure some of the blowby.
Hello, thanks for the great video. One question - are there any implications to zinc plating the precombustion chambers? just wondering if you have had any issues down the line as they are made of a very specific alloy (Nimonic 80A). thanks
hi,
never had an issue with zinc plating the pre chambers. But being alloy the zinc wouldn't stick. I'm not arguing whether they are made of steel or not as I do not know but never had an issue. I think the only part which is not steel on those is the "ball" where the spray of the injector fires upon. That never holds the zinc so I guess you're right. But the body is steel. On bad injectors theses spray balls sometimes melt away or break away, not uncommon
Sorry dude , the timing is ot all of it?
Or 14.5 ?
Howdy Bruno! Thank you for creating and sharing such an in depth video! Any chance you know the torque specs for the valve cover (rocker cover) and if there is a sequence or pattern to torque the bolts down? I've searched high and low for a repair manual online and on forums, but haven't had any luck. For other vehicles I've owned and worked on over the years I've been able to find PDFs or buy a repair manual. I've had no luck finding one for the W210 E-Class. I have a 1999 E300D TurboDiesel OM606.962.ERE.
Thank you for taking the time to watch! By hard i dont know the torque figures, but 12-15 Nm in a diagonal cross pattern you are on the safe side. Important is use a good quality gasket from Elring, better still an original one
Sounds crazy I never looked it up myself I did hand tight and 40k miles later not a single leak so his tootsie specs would make perfect sense
@@heritagesteel1976 @Cappy-bf5rz Thank you both for the reply and input! I ended up tackling this before y'all had a chance to reply, so I erred on the side of caution and torqued the VC bolts to 10Nm in kind of an alternating star pattern. At the time of my initial question, I didn't realize that the valve cover bottoms out or sits flush against the head. It's not floating on the gasket, so it's understandable that a torque spec may not be specified by the factory. Just getting it hand tight should suffice. No need to over tighten as once the valve cover is bottomed out against the head, no matter how much you tighten, it's not going to squeeze the gasket more. One would only be risking stripping out threads at that point. I used a FelPro gasket which I've had good luck with on other makes in the past. No leaks so far!
Dzień dobry, Mam silnik OM613 ale to inna budowa będzie tak? OM606 chcę dopiero kupić. Pozdrawiam z Polski
Really nice and clean build.
I'm not a mechanic but, Amazing job,
Are you located in Germany?
I would like to right you and email for a build project.
hi,
i was born in Germany and lived there for many years. Have been living in Portugal for 30 years now. Send me an email if you like and we'll talk, in german also if you prefer: heritage.steel1976@gmail.com
You have a website or any social media we're I can right you on private. I'm in Spain
34:47 would you happen to have a part number for this ?
Super vidéo
Est-ce que tu as un lien pour acheter le bloquage de pignon de pompe à injection car je ne trouve pas sur eBay
hi,
like mentioned in the video you can use the injection pump and use it as the tool i have. I think its even better, more precise than the tool.
where did you get the yellow galvanized bolts?
these are the old bolts. have them zinc plated again
Do you sell rebuilt engines? How do I contact?
Any idea where I can get pistons!
Not easy, and bloody expensive. OEM are MAHLE forged pistons. So if you are looking for STD pistons probably makes sense buy a running engine and use the pistons. If the bores are gone i wouldnt sleeve the block back to STD. The nyou really need to buy oversized pistons, they cost like 500 EUR a piece from AUTODOC or similar. Mercedes still sells them but i reckon they would cost an arm and a leg
I was wondering if people could help me,
I have a 1998 G wagon with an om606 engine but I wanted to get more power somewhere 220-250 PH how is this work possible,
Should I change the electronic IP with a mechanical IP, what changes should I make in the engine since I am a beginner.
Thanks for understanding guys
you can chip the ECU if its a stock engine. DIESEL PUMP UK makes some some good remapping. Mechanical IP for way more horse power, bigger turbos etc. Got to be careful with the autobox though...
@@heritagesteel1976 Can I add to increase the PS in the computer, even change the turbine plus add an intercooler, if I do all this how much horse power can be increased!
No Om 606! 605!!